I sometimes break the vacuum with a refrigerant cylinder hooked up to the other valve core tool with the vacuum rated hose under a vacuum too. I typically do this on compressor change outs or any other time a recover all the charge. Also, I prefer to hook up my micron gauge to a ball valve so I don't risk exposing it to excessive pressure or system oil.
Typically in an air conditioning system that there's no way that you can draw the vacuum too fast. That system was properly installed continually purge with nitrogen and pressure tested so there was absolutely no moisture to worry about, it was simply degassing. If you follow the process that I put on the TruTechTools evacuation training page you will never have a problem. We have several hundred customers that use these gifts every single day.
It was just something that I tried, you are the second comment on it in 6000 views. I have not done it again. Had a lot of people that like it or did not mind it, others who have different learning styles could not stand it. All of it is a learning experience. Thanks for your feedback.
Finally...someone showing how to evacuate using vacuum hoses. Every time I look, guys are using their manifolds. Too many connections and those hoses are rated for vacuum. Great video
I frequently hear techs complaining about deposition and liquid water freezing due to the fast nature of this vacuum system but it doesn't hold much water (no pun intended) on these small systems. That issue is easily resolved by first, purging the system with nitrogen during and after brazing but before your initial standing pressure test. Many manufacturers require installers to do a triple evac which is also extremely helpful in dehydration. Water at 100 microns boils at about -40° F. When water freezes, it isn't suspended between the walls of the pipe, it rests on the pipe walls. Unless you evacuating a system in less than -40° F conditions, the heat of the ambient conditions will conduct through the pipe walls and boil off the ice once you isolate the system from the pump. Your micron gauge will show you if there is moisture in the system or not (which is why we use it). However, I wouldn't recommend pulling a vacuum so quickly on a large chiller without other considerations especially if water contamination is suspected. Let's be honest though, most of us here aren't working on that many large systems.
Nylog is an assembly lubricant that keeps things from binding and leaking when attaching hoses. The different types are for the different oil in systems. One is POE oil and the other mineral based.
I agree with Chris. Ball valves to the micron gauge and ball valve for charging or obviously nitro for new install. Although you shouldnt hook your micron gauge up until 29hg to prevent any contamination.
I sure would have liked to see the progress of the micron gauge reading continue in the testing of the vacuum pump at the beginning of the video. It was still dropping pretty rapidly at 10 microns. Also, when reinstalling the Schrader core: How about purging the part of the valve core remover tool that is full of air before opening the ball valve fully?
Nice video. Alot of manufactures are saying if u pull a vacuum to quick you will freeze moisture. I value your opinion what do you think? Also who makes that brass piece from CRT to micron gauge?
27' plus the evaporator. It was a new system so the only thing we did not evacuate was the condenser itself. The secret is the large hoses and pulling the cores. We sell the complete kit.
After the core tools isolated the vacuum rig from the system it was allowed to set for over 10 minutes. The final vacuum was shown in the video. After 2 to 3 minutes to vacuum balances out and do the same at both ends of the tubing.
Two different types are not critical. When installing the cores, a lot of techs use a little on the valve seat. This just minimizes oil cross contamination. Likely over kill, but it cannot hurt anything.
To all those new guys in hvac This is the reason way you should not watch RUclips videos to learn. I am sure he’s going to open that suction line first. With this system under vacuum, opening the suction valve will pull a lot of oil out of that compressor into the system. To new guys always open the liquid service valve first once the system under vacuum.
Your point is exactly right. This Guy is just a salesman for Tru Tech Tools. He does not know a better way to do a vacuum job. A lot of questions from viewers went unanswered.
No, the refrigerant was in the system at that point. I cracked the suction service valve to pressurize the system. Refrigerant was pushing out so no atmosphere can come in.
I was always under the impression not to open the suction service valve under a deep vacuum, reason for that, you can pull the oil out of the compressor, correct me if I'm wrong and explain please.
Thank for the great video Jim! Really a nice set up thought. I have one question at the end . When you crack the suction valve to break the vacuum and remove your digital Vacuum gauge prior reinstall your Schrader core , I don't see any vapor Ref. Leak out at where you remove the vacuum gauge. I am missing something .... Can someone explain to this newbie . I am greatly appreciate!
I have heard the same. Otherwise we would all use the tez8 or some other 10cfm or greater pump. The triple will eliminate frozen moisture(ice). My vac times used to be hours or more. If I take an hour or longer its bigger equipment. 24 ton Mitsubishi with 16 heads and 1700ft of line was pulled to 140 microns holding in 3 hours with a jb7.
Would it be beter if every vacuum pump had a solenoid valve? When you close the pump air is comin back in at a slow rate. With the solenoid valve nothing comes in again..
When you open the valves with micron gauge attached won't that expose the micron gauge to the pressure of the refrigerant / oil? I did this the other day and I think it damaged my micron gauge.
Before you start the evacuation process, the system should be purged with nitrogen to remove leftover oil and other contaminants from the system. In the event that the system keeps some residual oil in the lines and this oil comes in contact with the sensor, the AccuTools BluVac (shown in the video) can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Just fill the gauges sensor port with the alcohol and swish it around inside with your finger over the end. Dump out the alcohol and repeat until the alcohol is no longer dirty or cloudy. Isopropyl alcohol can be used to clean most micron gauges, be sure to check with your gauges manual to be certain. The micron gauge should not be hooked up to a charged system. It is only used to measure the vacuum in the lines and is not used when refrigerant is in the system.
@@TruTechTools I understand that but he left the micron gauge on at the end to not break the vacuum. He opened the suction service valve to release refrigerant and break the vacuum(Which I believe you are supposed to open the liquid service valve first.) When he opened the suction service valve the micron gauge was exposed to the refrigerant entering the system.
Jim, great infromative video. I have a question. Say you're pulling a vaccum on the entire system(indoor/ourdoor). After the vaccumm Is pulled and you've closed the shut off valves on the core removal tool and the remove the hoses. Is it best to leave the core removal tools on at that point and add refrigerant to the system and install the core valves afterwards? I was thinking that if you add the core valves after the vaccum, there isnt anything to presurized the system since it is bone dry.
Hey Mackay, this article by Bryan Orr and video at the bottom of the article explains it pretty well: www.hvacrschool.com/can-pulling-vacuum-fast-freeze-water-moisture/
If you could please show a video with the home owner in mind on why it is so important to have a properly charged system ( sub/super)....I find 90+% of my inspections incorrect.....A video would really help consumers....Thanks so much
With this setup hook up hose with ball valve to service port on core tools preferably liquid line one so as to not introduce liquid refrigerant to compressor. Hook other end to refrigerant cylinder. Purge hose with liquid refrigerant to ball valve. Then go ahead pull vacuum. Do this BEFORE pulling vacuum or you risk permitting non condensable air to enter system. When vacuum done open valve in hose to charging cylinder and charge to system specifications.
Did you have the core removed from the port where the bluvac was hooked up? Also i pull vacuums with this setup on a regular basis and the results are outstanding. I've had systems sitting at 100 microns with zero leak rate while isolated. Amazing kit really.
I think a lot of the time "saved" was taken back up fiddling with extra fittings and playing with service valves and such. I prefer a four port manifold so I can use less fittings and spend less time hooking things up. I never have a problem with speed leaving the cores in and just so long as you change them out if they were leaking you're good.
If the line set is short or small tonnage yeah you are waisting time. But on longer line sets or systems I suspect have extra moisture I use manifold and remove the valve cores for more effective vacuum. Or bypass manifold altogether.
I find that a manifold has too many places for leaking. Too many parts that need to be serviced and typically those charging hoses are not vacuum rated to the same ability as a vacuum rig.
My second though is after you've added the core valves and removed the core removal tool, wont air get back in the system once you hook your gauges to add refrigerant?
When you cracked valve at end and let freon go in or air to put your valve in..didn't that let air in?? I don't understand how to get valve back in and not let air in..I'm just starting hvac
Mr. Bergman. Question: At 9:22 you said " Crack the service valve, were going to break the vacuum" Does that mean that you were not evacuating the Condenser ? I'm confused was the Condenser already evacuated ? Please advise. Ted H.
The condenser was already evacuated as was shown in the video and He broke the vacuum by opening the systems Parker valves to allow Freon to flow into the line set.
No... the condenser had refrigerant in it. Usually what I do is exactly what he does, only I blead the air out of the core before pushing it back in by cracking the valve on the core removal tool then tightening it up as a last step. Otherwise, if I am vaccuuming the condenser too, on the liquid side, I have a tank of refrigerant upside-down on a scale... already purged. Once I am ready to break the vaccuum, I dump the liquid refrigerant and the vaccuum pulls it in.
Pressure washing the inside of old linesets is highly recommended with either water and strongly recommended for new installs with a high chance for call backs...It's good business! Why vacuum when the wife does it? I was being sarcastic.....
Good video, I'll be hooking my new gauge up like you did this setup. But good Lord, how can people complain about the music in the background? It's so faint it's barely noticeable; certainly not something to bitch about.
If you isolate the system and see that it is still outgassing you will need to put the system back under vacuum. If this is the case you do not want to introduce the hoses to the system once the valves are opened and the hoses were no longer under vacuum (introducing atmosphere back into the system) The pump should not be turned off until the evacuation is completed or the process is done.
Hello fairly new to the hvac industry so bare with me. Do you remove both schraders or just the suction side? Also why did you crack the service valve? Was that for when you reinsert the schrader valve no air gets in the system? Thanks in advance
why no purge core remover when reinstalling core after cracking valve? You just put air in the system. :p I know its tiny, but itll read like 300+ microns.
+Bubba Gump that's wrong, once you've put the shrader remover on tight it has sealed the moisture laden air in. leave you micron guage on when you do it and see what happens. always purge the last part, he let a wee bit of moisture in then. and if your spending $500+ on this kit then your obviously a vac freak.
250ratc i totally agree, lots of misleadings, he can't break the vacuum the way he is doing it, he is taking a big chance pulling the oil out the compressor. Just saying.
1/2" diameter vacuum hose in the middle but restricted at the ends to 1/4" diameter? Doesn't make sense to me. Why not 1/4" all the way through vacuum rated hose?
The part I do not understand and have problems with is maintaining a stable vacuum reading. I just did a system and pull down to 200 microns and in 10 minutes it rose to 700 microns. But did not stabilize and kept slowly rising. Yours rose to over 300 microns but was still climbing. It did not look to me like your reading was staying stable. How far would you allow it to rise in 10 minutes before you think there might be a problem
bilskro if you pull a vacuum too quickly it can freeze any moisture and when the system sits in a vacuum the ice will melt and turn to vapor causing your pressure rise. it's not actually a good thing to pull a vacuum this quickly.
If it keeps rising then I would advise breaking with nitrogen and trying again. When you first valve off in a very deep vacuum some very small increases are to be expected. The rate and time involved is related to many factors including total internal volume, the components you are pulling down, and any substances left in the system. If the compressor or accumulator are included any moisture entrained in the oil can take some time to release and can result in a slow climb even on a tight system.
After using the trending feature of the bluvac pro I found it the vacuum falls in any inconsistent way to break it with nitrogen and start again. Mine stabilizes when the equipment I am using is properly maintained. If I have a gasket that needs service or then the rise will not stop. It goes up then stabilizes to zero leak rate. If ever it keeps going up it’s likely oil in the gauge or water in the system. Either way break with nitrogen take care of the issue then get back to it.
He spent 20 minutes setting all that up lol Dude just hook the vac to some digital gauges with built in micron gauge and turn it on the go clean up the job and finish up things while the vac runs. A good set of digital gauges will have an alarm to tell you when you're done.
Dude get with the new hotness. Gauges are garbage when pulling vacuum. 1/2 hose to a TEE then to 2 1/2 Jose’s straight into the system without valve cores. Can’t be beat.
Think the big vac hoses are all a selling gimmick the hoses are like 5/8 thick but at the fitting they are only 1/8 diameter big hoses will only flow what the smallest point in system can flow which is a coreless service port flow rate the biggest improvement is using 2 coreremoval tools
smoothsteviegful thats not true, the small parts will absolutely interfere with the flow and make turbulens, but just around the smaller part, and because of the short length of the small area compared to the rest of tubes and pipes with bigger area it can be considered as a single resistent in the entire system, like a 90 degree for instance, or a valve. Not that I recommend this kind of set-up.
Tom Anthony it didn't bother me but to all video editors " for clear instructions don't add distracting music" it ain't the cool editing you fancy it to be
I sometimes break the vacuum with a refrigerant cylinder hooked up to the other valve core tool with the vacuum rated hose under a vacuum too. I typically do this on compressor change outs or any other time a recover all the charge. Also, I prefer to hook up my micron gauge to a ball valve so I don't risk exposing it to excessive pressure or system oil.
why do you do this? what is the benefit of breaking the vacuum with a refrigerant cylinder?
There is a deeper sense of satisfaction from doing something perfect. Its time and timing
I just started viewing Trutech Tools videos and really like what I see as a rookie! Almost as good as Steve Lav.
Typically in an air conditioning system that there's no way that you can draw the vacuum too fast. That system was properly installed continually purge with nitrogen and pressure tested so there was absolutely no moisture to worry about, it was simply degassing. If you follow the process that I put on the TruTechTools evacuation training page you will never have a problem. We have several hundred customers that use these gifts every single day.
It was just something that I tried, you are the second comment on it in 6000 views. I have not done it again. Had a lot of people that like it or did not mind it, others who have different learning styles could not stand it. All of it is a learning experience. Thanks for your feedback.
Finally...someone showing how to evacuate using vacuum hoses.
Every time I look, guys are using their manifolds. Too many connections and those hoses are rated for vacuum. Great video
I use this equipment all the time flawlessly.Totally agree on the ball valve for the micron gauge Thanks for the education JIM!!
I installed a new compressor the other day within an RTU with the BluVac gauge and Appion hose/core tools. About an hour later, 3 hours.
Great Job
jd dr.jkindle can’t you boil the oil that low of a vacuum isn’t good for compressors right?
I frequently hear techs complaining about deposition and liquid water freezing due to the fast nature of this vacuum system but it doesn't hold much water (no pun intended) on these small systems. That issue is easily resolved by first, purging the system with nitrogen during and after brazing but before your initial standing pressure test. Many manufacturers require installers to do a triple evac which is also extremely helpful in dehydration. Water at 100 microns boils at about -40° F. When water freezes, it isn't suspended between the walls of the pipe, it rests on the pipe walls. Unless you evacuating a system in less than -40° F conditions, the heat of the ambient conditions will conduct through the pipe walls and boil off the ice once you isolate the system from the pump. Your micron gauge will show you if there is moisture in the system or not (which is why we use it). However, I wouldn't recommend pulling a vacuum so quickly on a large chiller without other considerations especially if water contamination is suspected. Let's be honest though, most of us here aren't working on that many large systems.
Takes me a full day with 1/2in hoses a 8cfm pump and a dehydrator setup on my 300 ton 19xr chillers
I now have this setup with hoses and core tools but different micron guage can't wait to see how it does
I'm glad that you placed the gauge in the right place. Many people posting are doing it wrong passing the wrong procedure to future tech's.
Nylog is an assembly lubricant that keeps things from binding and leaking when attaching hoses. The different types are for the different oil in systems. One is POE oil and the other mineral based.
I agree with Chris. Ball valves to the micron gauge and ball valve for charging or obviously nitro for new install. Although you shouldnt hook your micron gauge up until 29hg to prevent any contamination.
I sure would have liked to see the progress of the micron gauge reading continue in the testing of the vacuum pump at the beginning of the video. It was still dropping pretty rapidly at 10 microns. Also, when reinstalling the Schrader core: How about purging the part of the valve core remover tool that is full of air before opening the ball valve fully?
Yeah, I have seen others suggesting purging the air in that manner. I think that is good practice.
Nice video. Alot of manufactures are saying if u pull a vacuum to quick you will freeze moisture. I value your opinion what do you think? Also who makes that brass piece from CRT to micron gauge?
27' plus the evaporator. It was a new system so the only thing we did not evacuate was the condenser itself. The secret is the large hoses and pulling the cores. We sell the complete kit.
good systems. The ones I install with new evaporator always seem to operate between 15 and 20 degree high side saturation temperature above ambient
After the core tools isolated the vacuum rig from the system it was allowed to set for over 10 minutes. The final vacuum was shown in the video. After 2 to 3 minutes to vacuum balances out and do the same at both ends of the tubing.
Thank you very much for the Maximum Overpressure information. Will discard the ball valve.
Two different types are not critical. When installing the cores, a lot of techs use a little on the valve seat. This just minimizes oil cross contamination. Likely over kill, but it cannot hurt anything.
To all those new guys in hvac This is the reason way you should not watch RUclips videos to learn. I am sure he’s going to open that suction line first. With this system under vacuum, opening the suction valve will pull a lot of oil out of that compressor into the system. To new guys always open the liquid service valve first once the system under vacuum.
Your point is exactly right. This Guy is just a salesman for Tru Tech Tools. He does not know a better way to do a vacuum job. A lot of questions from viewers went unanswered.
No, the refrigerant was in the system at that point. I cracked the suction service valve to pressurize the system. Refrigerant was pushing out so no atmosphere can come in.
You should have cracked the system on the HIGH side not on the LOW side.
I was always under the impression not to open the suction service valve under a deep vacuum, reason for that, you can pull the oil out of the compressor, correct me if I'm wrong and explain please.
great video thanks jim I will upgrade to this way for sure .
Would refrigerant get into the micron gauge? Ans would it affect the gauge if some got into it?
Looks great but how long was that line set?
6 feet, lol.
Thank for the great video Jim! Really a nice set up thought. I have one question at the end . When you crack the suction valve to break the vacuum and remove your digital Vacuum gauge prior reinstall your Schrader core , I don't see any vapor Ref. Leak out at where you remove the vacuum gauge. I am missing something .... Can someone explain to this newbie . I am greatly appreciate!
Put a drop of oil on the condenser valves before you open them to protect the o-rings.
So most manufacturers say not to pull such a fast vacuum as moisture can freeze in the system due to rapid depressurization, thoughts?
Triple evacuation, breaking the vac with nitro
I have heard the same. Otherwise we would all use the tez8 or some other 10cfm or greater pump. The triple will eliminate frozen moisture(ice). My vac times used to be hours or more. If I take an hour or longer its bigger equipment. 24 ton Mitsubishi with 16 heads and 1700ft of line was pulled to 140 microns holding in 3 hours with a jb7.
You have to shut the pump off because if your core tools or if it was rising you would never know because it’s really still pulling a vacuum.
Would it be beter if every vacuum pump had a solenoid valve? When you close the pump air is comin back in at a slow rate. With the solenoid valve nothing comes in again..
Vac down to 200 microns
Comes back and says we haven't risen that much(with vac still running), vac reads 360.
Am I missing something?
When you open the valves with micron gauge attached won't that expose the micron gauge to the pressure of the refrigerant / oil? I did this the other day and I think it damaged my micron gauge.
Before you start the evacuation process, the system should be purged with nitrogen to remove leftover oil and other contaminants from the system. In the event that the system keeps some residual oil in the lines and this oil comes in contact with the sensor, the AccuTools BluVac (shown in the video) can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Just fill the gauges sensor port with the alcohol and swish it around inside with your finger over the end. Dump out the alcohol and repeat until the alcohol is no longer dirty or cloudy. Isopropyl alcohol can be used to clean most micron gauges, be sure to check with your gauges manual to be certain.
The micron gauge should not be hooked up to a charged system. It is only used to measure the vacuum in the lines and is not used when refrigerant is in the system.
@@TruTechTools I understand that but he left the micron gauge on at the end to not break the vacuum. He opened the suction service valve to release refrigerant and break the vacuum(Which I believe you are supposed to open the liquid service valve first.) When he opened the suction service valve the micron gauge was exposed to the refrigerant entering the system.
I have the mini Blu vac, my favorite, but that's way too many fittings to be honest. All you need is the 3/8s connected to a jb vaccum pump lol
how about the part numbers for the fittings and hoses!
Too bad we couldn't see what the final reading was. We know the gauge dropped we'll below 500 but what about the other end of the lineset.?
Jim, great infromative video. I have a question. Say you're pulling a vaccum on the entire system(indoor/ourdoor). After the vaccumm Is pulled and you've closed the shut off valves on the core removal tool and the remove the hoses. Is it best to leave the core removal tools on at that point and add refrigerant to the system and install the core valves afterwards? I was thinking that if you add the core valves after the vaccum, there isnt anything to presurized the system since it is bone dry.
When you pull a vacuum that quick with such large hoses do you risk moisture freezing in the refrigerant circuit and not being removed by the vacuum?
Hey Mackay, this article by Bryan Orr and video at the bottom of the article explains it pretty well: www.hvacrschool.com/can-pulling-vacuum-fast-freeze-water-moisture/
If you could please show a video with the home owner in mind on why it is so important to have a properly charged system ( sub/super)....I find 90+% of my inspections incorrect.....A video would really help consumers....Thanks so much
How would you hook up to the system if you were to break vacuum from a refrigerant cylinder as apposed to cracking the service valve in the condenser?
With this setup hook up hose with ball valve to service port on core tools preferably liquid line one so as to not introduce liquid refrigerant to compressor. Hook other end to refrigerant cylinder. Purge hose with liquid refrigerant to ball valve. Then go ahead pull vacuum. Do this BEFORE pulling vacuum or you risk permitting non condensable air to enter system. When vacuum done open valve in hose to charging cylinder and charge to system specifications.
Did you have the core removed from the port where the bluvac was hooked up? Also i pull vacuums with this setup on a regular basis and the results are outstanding. I've had systems sitting at 100 microns with zero leak rate while isolated. Amazing kit really.
Thank you
That is quite a pump that you have.
I think a lot of the time "saved" was taken back up fiddling with extra fittings and playing with service valves and such. I prefer a four port manifold so I can use less fittings and spend less time hooking things up. I never have a problem with speed leaving the cores in and just so long as you change them out if they were leaking you're good.
If the line set is short or small tonnage yeah you are waisting time. But on longer line sets or systems I suspect have extra moisture I use manifold and remove the valve cores for more effective vacuum. Or bypass manifold altogether.
I find that a manifold has too many places for leaking. Too many parts that need to be serviced and typically those charging hoses are not vacuum rated to the same ability as a vacuum rig.
Lyle Cairns yes sir
Lyle Cairns thats why you get yellow jacket titans, best gauges ever!!!
brian village i agree.
No matter how you look at it even though you have a 3/8 " id vacuum hose you still have a 1/4'" opening at your gauges.
Ha. found myself tipping my head from sun on micron gage 😁
How long was the line set, and was there a indoor coil tied into it? Just asking hard to believe that is a complete system.
My second though is after you've added the core valves and removed the core removal tool, wont air get back in the system once you hook your gauges to add refrigerant?
You would have already released the charge. So you bleed the core tool, no air ! I just realized this post was 5 years old.. LOL
I need this
is that a Goodman/Amana product? Nice video.
When you cracked valve at end and let freon go in or air to put your valve in..didn't that let air in?? I don't understand how to get valve back in and not let air in..I'm just starting hvac
Nice kit! But almost 500 bucks for it!? Seems kinda expensive
Time is money
Mr. Bergman. Question: At 9:22 you said " Crack the service valve, were going to break the vacuum" Does that mean that you were not evacuating the Condenser ? I'm confused was the Condenser already evacuated ? Please advise. Ted H.
The condenser was already evacuated as was shown in the video and He broke the vacuum by opening the systems Parker valves to allow Freon to flow into the line set.
No... the condenser had refrigerant in it. Usually what I do is exactly what he does, only I blead the air out of the core before pushing it back in by cracking the valve on the core removal tool then tightening it up as a last step. Otherwise, if I am vaccuuming the condenser too, on the liquid side, I have a tank of refrigerant upside-down on a scale... already purged. Once I am ready to break the vaccuum, I dump the liquid refrigerant and the vaccuum pulls it in.
Pressure washing the inside of old linesets is highly recommended with either water and strongly recommended for new installs with a high chance for call backs...It's good business!
Why vacuum when the wife does it?
I was being sarcastic.....
Hi..
how.mutc is the minimum vacuum pressure for good results ?
Generally, evacuating a system to 500 microns or less is a good standard.
@@TruTechTools i make it 40 microns and when I stop rise to 350
@@ghostridergr8259 more often than not the lower the better!
Do you have to use the nylog?
Good video, I'll be hooking my new gauge up like you did this setup. But good Lord, how can people complain about the music in the background? It's so faint it's barely noticeable; certainly not something to bitch about.
is big error !!!
why keep the pump running "after" closing the valves and throughout the standing vacc test?
If you isolate the system and see that it is still outgassing you will need to put the system back under vacuum. If this is the case you do not want to introduce the hoses to the system once the valves are opened and the hoses were no longer under vacuum (introducing atmosphere back into the system) The pump should not be turned off until the evacuation is completed or the process is done.
Hello fairly new to the hvac industry so bare with me. Do you remove both schraders or just the suction side? Also why did you crack the service valve? Was that for when you reinsert the schrader valve no air gets in the system? Thanks in advance
How does that not freeze up any moisture in the system by moving so fast
This post at the HVACR School explains it well:
www.hvacrschool.com/can-pulling-vacuum-fast-freeze-water-moisture/
what size hose is the one coming off the vacuum?
freddy hidalgo 3/8 (vacuum hose)
why no purge core remover when reinstalling core after cracking valve? You just put air in the system. :p I know its tiny, but itll read like 300+ microns.
+Bubba Gump that's wrong, once you've put the shrader remover on tight it has sealed the moisture laden air in. leave you micron guage on when you do it and see what happens. always purge the last part, he let a wee bit of moisture in then. and if your spending $500+ on this kit then your obviously a vac freak.
These residential videos are hilarious
250ratc i totally agree, lots of misleadings, he can't break the vacuum the way he is doing it, he is taking a big chance pulling the oil out the compressor. Just saying.
What CFM pump is that?
Show how quick this thing can pull down a 100 tons system with 60 feet of pipes with double suction riser traps.... Id be a believer than!
i pulled a 70' reach in case with 140' of lime set to 500 microns in 30 min
i hope that's a hermetically sealed system our you're pulling air past the front seal below 500 microns
Thats a GMC... Goodman manufacturing Corporation. Only difference from Goodman brand is color and warranty.
1/2" diameter vacuum hose in the middle but restricted at the ends to 1/4" diameter? Doesn't make sense to me. Why not 1/4" all the way through vacuum rated hose?
it acts as an accumulator for the vacuum pump thus making it work more efficient.
It makes a huge difference. This isn’t a high pressure exchange so it isn’t going to act the way we might be familiar.
The part I do not understand and have problems with is maintaining a stable vacuum reading. I just did a system and pull down to 200 microns and in 10 minutes it rose to 700 microns. But did not stabilize and kept slowly rising. Yours rose to over 300 microns but was still climbing. It did not look to me like your reading was staying stable. How far would you allow it to rise in 10 minutes before you think there might be a problem
bilskro if you pull a vacuum too quickly it can freeze any moisture and when the system sits in a vacuum the ice will melt and turn to vapor causing your pressure rise. it's not actually a good thing to pull a vacuum this quickly.
If it keeps rising then I would advise breaking with nitrogen and trying again. When you first valve off in a very deep vacuum some very small increases are to be expected. The rate and time involved is related to many factors including total internal volume, the components you are pulling down, and any substances left in the system. If the compressor or accumulator are included any moisture entrained in the oil can take some time to release and can result in a slow climb even on a tight system.
After using the trending feature of the bluvac pro I found it the vacuum falls in any inconsistent way to break it with nitrogen and start again. Mine stabilizes when the equipment I am using is properly maintained. If I have a gasket that needs service or then the rise will not stop. It goes up then stabilizes to zero leak rate. If ever it keeps going up it’s likely oil in the gauge or water in the system. Either way break with nitrogen take care of the issue then get back to it.
He spent 20 minutes setting all that up lol Dude just hook the vac to some digital gauges with built in micron gauge and turn it on the go clean up the job and finish up things while the vac runs. A good set of digital gauges will have an alarm to tell you when you're done.
Evermont King buy the mini Blu micron gauge, those built in micron gauges on manifolds are crap, old technology
Dude get with the new hotness.
Gauges are garbage when pulling vacuum.
1/2 hose to a TEE then to 2 1/2 Jose’s straight into the system without valve cores.
Can’t be beat.
Think the big vac hoses are all a selling gimmick the hoses are like 5/8 thick but at the fitting they are only 1/8 diameter big hoses will only flow what the smallest point in system can flow which is a coreless service port flow rate the biggest improvement is using 2 coreremoval tools
We have done extensive testing and research and the hose size is a significant factor even with 1/4" ports.
smoothsteviegful thats not true, the small parts will absolutely interfere with the flow and make turbulens, but just around the smaller part, and because of the short length of the small area compared to the rest of tubes and pipes with bigger area it can be considered as a single resistent in the entire system, like a 90 degree for instance, or a valve. Not that I recommend this kind of set-up.
smoothsteviegful or a higher cfm pump
My JB 7cfm pump and SMAN 3 get that low and stable too.... on a linset and evap coil... not that impressive..
music in the background is totally distracting from the content of the video.
Get a 4 port manifold, much cheaper than this.
goodman manufacturing company*
Vacuum gauge in a bad position of the sistem
Second thought... sorry..
Why don't you knock off the crappy "music" in the background?
That music in the background is just plain dumb and distracting
You Sir are RUDE!!!
Tom Anthony it didn't bother me but to all video editors " for clear instructions don't add distracting music" it ain't the cool editing you fancy it to be
Music is terrible
It was the old days - 6 years ago. We try to do better music now.
Why would you ruin an informative video like this by putting in background music that distracts the viewer????
WOW! Vacuum gauge needs to be as far as possible from the vacuum pump. You will get inaccurate readings with the meter this close to the pump.
What are you talking about? He valved it off and it held. How can you fake that?
How can you get any farther away? Its isolated after the pull down anyway.
I fucking love background music... Keep that crap out if your talking in video.
cps VG200
Cut thaT STUPID MUSIC PLZ
Informative stuff, BUT trying to listen to birds chirping, you guys raising your voices, and that dumb music......made me not watch it till the end.