Put a little 1/4” ball valve before the micron gauge. When your done evacuating, close the valve, remove the micron gauge and open the stop valves, then remove the ball valve. You’ll never worry about messing up that sensor that way.
I've been teaching myself HVAC service by watching RUclips videos for an hour everyday before I clock in at work. I have a couple other channels I watch regularly but I recently found your channel and have subscribed. Keep up the good work bud.
I’ve been doing the one hose set up for a few years now it works great.. I just use something like a core tool for the micron so I can valve it off before letting refrigerant or oil get on the sensor.. just a tip good video!
Hi, I've never heard about the HVAC trade before but I watched all of your videos. I really enjoyed it and I've decided to start my career with HVAC. I appreciate your tons of content and hope the next video will come out soon!!!
@@RKTSH1P where tf do they pay that at, scam companies?🤣 i get $650-$750 per install. $900 max if its really complicated which is rare. Unless you are talking about private jobs. Then makes sense. I work for big corporations as a subcontractor.
One thing that's pretty neat about those fieldpiece manifolds, when you put the suction clamp on the refrigerant line during test tightness, it will factor in the change in ambient temperature. So that -.6 that you had might have just been ambient temperature decrease.
Not even gonna lie I only start watching your videos a couple months ago not understanding shii til I got to school FW today I’m actually able yo follow along and understand and appreciate your vids because it’s entertaining and helps me at school
Yeah you can have a 2cfm navac with 1/2 trueblue hose and itll get down to 499 microns in 5 min..thats on a new system..now for a currently used system then you wanna use 2 "1/2 hoses" and itll pull 499 microns in 5-10min..if you get a 10cfm its even better..alot of guys use a 10cfm pump and use the fieldpiece digital gauges without pulling core valves out
Love watching your videos from South Texas. Your quality of work is awesome. I work for a school district full time and do my own jobs and service calls in between. One thing you could show is when you test your vacuum pump/ oil is having the hose hooked up to the pump with the micron gauge on the other end to make sure your hose is good too. Love your one hose set up. Your videos are the reason I went to that after numerous times of having manifolds or hoses not being vacuum rated and failing trying to pull a system or package unit down.
Another great video Zac... hope to see you at the next HVAC symposium in Florida! I concur, fully opening the suction valve under vac will suck the oil out of the compressor. I've done it both ways and one makes for a much quieter operation. Personally, I pre- charge the lineset after evac to not have it under any negative pressure, when opening the valves.
I have a selection of vacuum pumps but one in particular is a lot of fun. It's a 17CFM 2 stage belt driven vacuum pump. This thing will pull a 4 or 5 plex down at the SAME time to less than 100 microns in barely 15 minutes. I use a very small air tank as a vacuum reservoir to connect multiple hoses (up to 6) simultaneously.
Incredible job. 👍 Everything is correct and your technique is great. Another tip for fast and deep vacuums is to get or make a Tee fitting that will allow you to attach both ends of your single vacuum hose together end to end in a closed loop with no valve cores on each end, and then you can attach a nitrogen hose to the 3rd fitting WITH a core in it so you can purge the vac hose full of dry nitrogen under just a tiny bit of pressure (like 1 or 2 PSI) to prevent wet air ingress while in storage. Attach the nitrogen hose, attach the ends together, tighten one and crack the other, and then flow nitrogen for a couple seconds to blow alllllll the air out before reducing the pressure a lot and tightening that fitting. Store the hose like that and it will not get full of water molecules while in storage. Those water molecules have to be evacuated too when you vacuum a system and it just adds more volume of gas that has to be removed which adds time. Manifold gauges should be stored like that too, or with some clean refrigerant left in them at a low pressure to avoid air ingress. Also check the integrity of your hose seals, core tool, and manifolds by bench testing them every 2 weeks. Pull a deep vacuum on them like testing the vacuum pump oil and then seal them off and let them sit for 5-6 hours or even overnight. Core tool seals are particularly important to test because it's a shaft seal that has to seal a moving rod rather than a fixed seal which is just clamped down firmly. If you have a really old core removal tool that you never cleaned and lubed or bench tested, it may very well surprise you to see that it's leaking a good amount of pressure and vacuum. We don't accept leaks! New seals and Nylog are cheap and it lets us sleep well at night. 😺
Why do all that work and buy expensive fittings jussst to be able to use one hose at the end? At that point I rather use 2 hoses one at the liquid and one at the suction and 3 valve core removal tools or one single hose process with one core removal tool and micron gauge at the liquid??? Doesn’t that sound easiest?
@@rickjames6948 no it doesn't. The length of the hose is short. As such is negligible and will pull down very quickly. The internal ID means a stronger vacuum source on the system, which pulls it down quicker.
I do both setups. Most of the time I like having two hoses then valve off the liquid line and let it continue to pull down. Force of habit on large commercial systems or contaminated systems to use two hoses. New installs one hose all day long.
You don’t need a core removal at the liquid line. Once your vaccum is where you want it to be then then you can remove the micron gauge and you shouldn’t loose your vaccum because you’re not suppose to remove the shredded valve in the liquid line and then you can add the refrigerant in the system
@@emidiolopez1409 if it's still in a vacuum when you take off your micron gauge off the liquid service port you're going to be sucking in non-condensables.
@@sirfishalot6992 I do 100 microns and turn off my pump and wait about 15 minutes to make sure it doesn’t rise and then I remove my micron gauge with the pump being off so I do believe it won’t suck any moisture in the lines
@@sirfishalot6992 I do it exactly how he does it on the video but I just remove my micron gauge to keep it oil free. The way he does it on the video he leaves his micron gauge while adding refrigerant
I does all the work, I'm HVAC maintenance supervisor and 24 years experience in Kuwait. If I got chance to work in USA i pray God to bless the person who takes me
Fieldpiece definitely the way to go. I just personally bought the 4 port gauges. With that vacuum, and flushing the lineset. I achieve 500 microns in like 10 minutes. Two hose setup with 3/8 vacuum hose actually rated for vacuum and not just charge.
The fieldpiece digital gauges with built in micron gauge gives you false microns readings.. yeah you pull down 500 microns on your gauge but the real reading if you would of had a micron gauge at the liquid line port it would be 300 microns difference So technically you was at about 200microns..meaning 500 microns happened way before you thought you did.. I have guys who cant pull below 700 microns on their digital gauges when reality is they are at 400 microns if they would use the micron gauge and not the digital manifold gauges
There are a few reasons why I agree with the ONE hose vacuum setup for HVAC installations. First, it is much more efficient because you have one less hose to move around. Second, it is more organized and neater looking. And finally, it is easier to use and less likely to cause problems.
Thanks a lot for such a detailed explanation with this new fancy Vacuum Pump. Im still considering on purchasing one. Really love the Technology behind it. With that large hose and that high tech pump you shouldn’t have a problem pulling a good vacuum with just one hose and you demonstrated in such efficient manner. Once again Thank you.
I’m with you on this especially using the Navac 2cfm battery vacuum I just got from trutech tools and the electric flaring tool also don’t know how I lived with out this and why it did not come out years ago
@@murkyturkey5238 get it you won’t regret it but get a 9amp battery so you have the 5 amp that comes with it and the 9 I have used mine about 20 times and I have saved about 30% or more in time on every job
I have the same setup. I have had really good experiences with my fieldpiece stuff. I've had some other techs say they are junk but I'm sure it's the whole Ford vs Chevy argument, both good but you cannot tell people different from what they like because of their own experiences.
Fieldpiece “stuff” is actually the cheapest. Not sure about the HVAC equipment, but their meters are so unprofessional and unreliable that they cannot be NIST certified with a calibration certificate. Show up to an industrial site with a Fieldpiece meter and automation engineers, electricians, and site facility technicians will most likely assume you’re a rookie for not knowing to use a professional instrument.
you should put a core removal tool on your liquid line with your micron gauge so that when you break the vacuum with freon that you dont get it in your micron gauge which can affect its accuracy over time will mess them up
I love your work Zach. But I got to say doing a two hose set up with the micron gauge on the suction side DOES NOT give you an inaccurate reading whatsoever. I pretty much only use a two hose set up and not only is it faster, (especially when pulling on a used coil) but the decay test proves just how low the micron count is. Either way, your set up is a beast but just thought I’d share my thoughts on your reasoning for only 1 hose
Bingo ..i do the same..when i do a used system at some point in my vacuum i close one of the vaccum hoses usually the one next to the micron gauge let it run on one hose so my micron gauge gives me the real reading..i have some coworkers who say they also pull to 100microns everytime and its because they getting the vacuum pump reading in the mix
I've been taught to not just pull the vacuum to the correct reading but to let the vacuum pump continue to pull vacuum for up to an hour to ensure that any water that has vaporized has been totally pulled out of the system. Otherwise if you don't leave it on long enough you may have some water vapor in some crevice in the line set or valve that has not been evacuated out of the system. I live in south Louisiana where we have very high humidity and that could be one of the reasons it is taught to do so. Thanks for a good explanation of your technique and equipment. 🙂
I always braze with nitrogen then high pressure test and do the triple Evac until my microns are below 500. Seemed like I was having a few new units that were running with some noncondensibles. I was told by an engineer that you normally don’t want to pressure test a system that is pumped down over 250psi. Supposedly the valves are not great at holding excessive back pressure and can cause a small amount of nitrogen to leak back into the condenser. Especially if the pressure you’re testing are higher than the pressure inside the condenser.. I’m not sure how true it is, but I have started to pressure test 200psi or lower, double checking my connections with bubbles and have had much better results.
I've experimented with the two hose set up and single hose, pulling through a manifold the "old school" methods. I decided the single hose method works best for me. Although I use a core tool/valve on the liquid line as well so I can isolate my micron gauge and keep it oil free.
Okay but why can’t you just leave the shredded valve in the liquid line and remove your micron gauge when you’re about to add refrigerant?? Not saying your way is wrong though
@@emidiolopez1409 when unscrewing the micron gauge from the valve it’s possible for the system to suck in moisture when the schrader is still partially depressed, I bought a C&D valve core depressor tool to hook my micron gauge to
@@skrt_n6518 I’ve been doing a single hose process like the video shows but I usually remove my micron gage before adding refrigerant( shredded valve still in). I do believe it wont suck moisture in the lines because when you remove your micron gage you lose a bit of your microns so youre basically pushing pressure out of your liquid line not pulling air out of the shredded valves thats why its important to get a really good vaccum so you still stay below 500 mic incase you lose that many microns when you remove your micron gage.
Love your channel bro, but seeing your evac setup in the thumb nail, the main question i had was "no bluVac Micron gauge?" 😋 That aside, you do raise some good points, and depending on the system I am working on, will often only pull one of my trublu hoses from my kit for the job... however I work primary on grocery systems, so mileage will vary there. I also carry two pumps on my truck, the VP87, and VPX7, and sometimes will use both on one circuit. i will however use one hose per pump, so I guess I'm still on the up there. lol Good vid all the same. Also kudos on the carry container for your evac kit. exactly the same packout one I use for mine. You know whats up. 😆
2 ton split/evacuating condenser/35’ of line set/evaporator coil. Had lots of moisture. Pressure tested. Dropped 5 psi within an 1 hr and 15 minutes. Not sure if that’s a leak? Thought possibly my hose had a bad gasket? System has been showing some serious moisture boiling off. Checked my gaskets. Changed to the one hose set up. Exactly like what is in this video. To eliminate any extra fittings and potential leaks.
quick tip ive noticed my core depressor will leak slightly if threaded all the way in, so i always make sure the adjust it while the vacuum is being pulled and monitor if any changes in my micron gauge happen. i use the supco SF5050 i do not use integral core depressors in the hose.
Great video. Just to let you know most manufacturers if not all recommend opening your suction valve first very slowly. This is to prevent compressor oil loss into the discharge line.
The 'One Hose' set-up is the way to go for residential....if you're doing things the right way. Fewest leak points, most accurate reading of vacuum on the system, less hoses and core tools. On most systems, if I'm replacing a drier, evap coil, or a compressor I'll usually just pull through my 4-valve manifold....with the refrigerant tank already on the charging hose. Quickest way to get it back in service. Most every company around here pulls a 2 cig vacuum if they aren't purging -- even owning a manifold with a built-in micron gauge is next level around here.
All Trane/American standard units say to pressure test to 150psi. We had 6-12 units where the nitrogen wound up contaminating the refrigerant due to it pushing through the service valves during a pressure test. We thought there were leaks due to the pressure dropping, only to find out it was leaking into the outdoor. At the high cost of 410a that can be an expensive mistake.
@@seanshadysullivan4401 I've had it on minisplits where I pressure tested to 600 psi and it was leaking past the valves kept looking for a leak inside.
thanks for this video, just little suggestion, in the future can you make quick close screenshot or take a few second to shot for any host connections for your test and installation, thanks
Very good work like it . I m that kind of person that I said, I learn. Something every single day. And I learn something on your video. Thanks for sharing
I do more refrigernation than AC and maybe that is why i do this but I find the smaller the system the more important it is to keep the vac gauge away from the pump, also on really small stuff I find my appion hoses pull too fast and I get mositure freezing in the system if I am not careful. On larger systems it is gonna take awhile to pull a good vacuum regardless, I was on a walk in cooler for a high school that was started up like 6 months ago (not by my company) that has a 3ft tall reciever (the system takes more than a full can of 448a), I had to flush and vacuum the whole system the other day. I didn't want to start shit so I kept my mouth shut to the customer but the install team screwed the pooch on that system. I was there because the evaporator was dripping on the floor, heavy frosting on the entry side of the evap, big shocker low charge, the valve core was so loose it was dripping liquid, I charged it to a clear sight glass the compressor cycled off and that when I saw it, sand cloth dust floating in the sight glass lots of it. I talked to the MFG because it was still under warrenty and suggested that we needed to flush the system or this compressor won't make it even to the end of the warrenty, they agreed and I spent the next few hours on a cold windy roof, lol good times, also thats the first time I have seen so much dust in a system that it was immidantly apparent in the sight glass. Great videos too man keep up the good work.
Just fyi when using the test tightness feature if you ever have a neg pressure diff that means something is leaking. Either your hoses, manifold, or system. Technically you are supposed to use the temp clamp with the pressure test, as it monitors the temp of the pipe while being pressurized. This prevents false readings.
Nice setup. I like to run the pump for a bit before I check the oil, that way if I do a an oil change, the brunt of the work has been done with the old stuff.
The only issue I see is when removing your micron gauge the way you hooked it up like you said it might let in the air which it does. I use a low lost fitting or use a valve core remover on both liquid and suction. Depends on which style you have Low loss fittings you have to spin a knob to press the core down or away to shut it close (front seat/ back seat) so you reduce the amount of air going back into the system. I have the Appion AV760 micron gauge and I can’t let refrigerant hit the sensor.
this is basically exactly the setup i want. Have that pump or the newest version of that pump. Getting a micron gauge and hopefully one of those hoses Monday. Curious to test how i was taught to do it compared to the right way.
You use the micron gauge on the liquid side while your vacuum hose is on the liquid side. Where would you set up your micron gauge say, on a mini split system with only a hose hookup on the suction side?
I’m just getting into HVAC as a career and begin classes next month. My question is does the company you work for supply these tools (vacuum, guages, etc.) or is it up to you to buy your own?
Depends on the company. Most companies I know of will provide you with a recovery machine, vacuum pump, and ladders. You might get passed hand me downs if your team is cool, but manifolds, torches, meters, hand tools, etc, is all on you. Some companies even give annual tool allowances.
My experience with Fieldpiece has been they're the Chrysler of HVAC; well designed, creative good ideas, but poorly built. When I had barbed nipples snap off my manometer (everyone else has steel barbed nipples) I said, "no more." Remember their blue temp K clamps? We had to wrap them with electrical tape day one. I like the one hose setup. I've been doing for years. I'll bet my apprentice doesn't know you can pull a vacuum with manifold gauges.
Yeah I lost one nipple on my Fieldpiece manometer already. From carelessly removing a vinyl tube that was on there too long I think. But I agree, they're extremely flimsy plastic.
3:22 i recommend releasing nitrogen as quickly as possible via the quarter hose valve so all dirt are released more efficiently. You'll always have tiny copper shavings while making your flares.
Your idea makes sense in theory, but I’ve found this to be irrelevant in actual practice. I recently pulled a vac on a 10 ton split with about 70ft of piping. I had two tru blue hoses with a tee and micron gauge at the condenser and another micron gauge at a service port in the air handler. I was mainly doing this to check the difference of my two micron gauges. They were both reading within 10 microns of each other while pulling. It seems like after a few minutes of vacuum time the difference becomes irrelevant. I prefer a two hose set up because it will ultimately pull a vacuum faster, although on smaller residential units that time difference also becomes pretty insignificant. Kind of a wash at that point.
I love this setup, techniques and equipment. But man the cost of that blue hose is probably more than that pump last time I checked. Gotta mortgage the house for some of this stuff. I agree quality wins in the end tho.
When you found out how that it only drop 0.06 psi and you start releasing what were you releasing was it the nitrogen are something else? And how many minutes are second of nitrogen do you put in the system to pressure check?
Best way to pull a vacuum with 3 port field piece gauge and anti blow back hoses? I have the same setup as you I just don’t have the hand held micron gauge.
I heard you mention that releasing the freon to the micron gauge won't affect the sensor. I've always been taught to take the micron gauge out of the circuit before releasing the freon. Does fieldpiece operating instructions that come with that micron gauge say that it's okay for freon to be introduced to the micron gauge. I have the same micron gauge. I don't want to mess it up lol. Nonetheless Love your videos appreciate the knowledge. 🤠👍🏽 Edit: I looked at the instruction manual for the micron gauge and it's rated for 870 PSIG.
The removal core tool has no schrader core ? How can u do it to depress the core ? I use a yellow jacket ball valve to isolate micron gauge and break the vacuum with Freon
I like your camera setup Zack. Looks very professional and clear. I am looking to record my hvacr calls but looking for a cheap good camera to get started. Any suggestions will be helpful. Good work. Keep em coming
Soy un admirador de su trabajo. Yo también me dedico a lo mismo y algún día me gustaría ser tan bueno como usted y tener toda esa herramienta que te facilita mucho el trabajo. Para hacer trabajos perfectos. Quisiera saber si puede subir video con un equipo minisplit haciéndole la prueba con nitrógeno, me gustaría ver ese procedimiento y aprender. Muchas gracias por subir y compartir sus videos. De antemano muchas gracias y espero y le llegue el mensaje y me de una respuesta. Cuidese atentamente un servidor y admirador.
My only question is did you pressure test to 450 psi? Some manuals actually state only pressure test up to 150 psi. I used to always fill up to 300psi until my boss said read the manual! Lol awesome video!
Always go off the low pressure side on the name plate. It will tell you the max design pressure.. I keep it a bit under that. From what I have been told if you don't bring your pressure high enough you may miss a leak..
The book for my American Standard/Trane units says around 175. Honestly not sure why? I do like it higher but I follow the book. My vacuum tells me how tight I am also.
Trane and American standard recommend pressure testing to 250 psi, anymore will push through the service valves so I’ve been told. I do the same thing with vacuum though tru blu on the suction line and my BluVac micron gauge on the liquid
Great vid, thanks! I see you have the Appion reclaim, and so do I. I'm looking at purchasing a new vac pump and noticed you've got the Fieldpiece vac pump and not the Appion, any reason? Was the Fieldpiece better? Cheers from Australia.
In that set up there. Do you add nitrogen ? For triple evac? What if lines freeze, wouldn't you need to add nitrogen? Is this setup bad for triple evac ?
I would like to know where you got the blue hose at I looked all over Nashville cannot find it would love to know where to get them in what What size are both ends
I hear what you’re saying with the 1 hose set up being furthest away from the pump. I’d still rather use 2 hoses with two core pullers. Have the micron gauge on the side port on the core puller of the liquid line. When you need check microns, valve off the core puller on the liquid line so you are not longer pulling on the micron gauge directly and you will still have an accurate reading. But I guess when you are pulling on such tiny systems it’s not like you’re saving that much time anyway with the two hose setup. To each his own I guess.
Put a little 1/4” ball valve before the micron gauge. When your done evacuating, close the valve, remove the micron gauge and open the stop valves, then remove the ball valve. You’ll never worry about messing up that sensor that way.
I guess I should’ve read b4 posting a comment. Great minds think a like lol
I was going to say this as I have had one ruined via refrigerant
What does your gauge do when it’s ruined. Stop working or not reading right?
😂you beat me to it
@@juanlanda2561 it doesn’t read correctly. just try and clean it with some IP Alcohol
This is one of the channels that helped me choose a career in residential hvac.. currently studying for epa cert. Thanks Zac...Miami FL.
Nice bro keep going I’m in Hvac here in Miami FL I do commercial. Work like a dog 65-70 hours a week but you never stop learning I’m on year #3
I've been teaching myself HVAC service by watching RUclips videos for an hour everyday before I clock in at work. I have a couple other channels I watch regularly but I recently found your channel and have subscribed. Keep up the good work bud.
It’s a lot of little things that are pretty straight forward to learn, until it’s not lol
I’ve been doing the one hose set up for a few years now it works great.. I just use something like a core tool for the micron so I can valve it off before letting refrigerant or oil get on the sensor.. just a tip good video!
Correct!
Hi, I've never heard about the HVAC trade before but I watched all of your videos. I really enjoyed it and I've decided to start my career with HVAC. I appreciate your tons of content and hope the next video will come out soon!!!
goodluck brotha its a great experience!
Great trade always something new and lots of money to be made!!!
Az HVAC installs paying 850$ plus modifications. Summertime installs usually pay 1000- 1200 piece rate... So yes sir great Career 👍
Also 130-170 degrees in those attics
@@RKTSH1P where tf do they pay that at, scam companies?🤣 i get $650-$750 per install. $900 max if its really complicated which is rare.
Unless you are talking about private jobs. Then makes sense. I work for big corporations as a subcontractor.
One thing that's pretty neat about those fieldpiece manifolds, when you put the suction clamp on the refrigerant line during test tightness, it will factor in the change in ambient temperature. So that -.6 that you had might have just been ambient temperature decrease.
Not even gonna lie I only start watching your videos a couple months ago not understanding shii til I got to school FW today I’m actually able yo follow along and understand and appreciate your vids because it’s entertaining and helps me at school
I finally ordered a decent hose, 1/2”. I was going to get a bigger pump but most say the hose is more important then the pump for most systems
Yeah you can have a 2cfm navac with 1/2 trueblue hose and itll get down to 499 microns in 5 min..thats on a new system..now for a currently used system then you wanna use 2 "1/2 hoses" and itll pull 499 microns in 5-10min..if you get a 10cfm its even better..alot of guys use a 10cfm pump and use the fieldpiece digital gauges without pulling core valves out
Love watching your videos from South Texas. Your quality of work is awesome. I work for a school district full time and do my own jobs and service calls in between. One thing you could show is when you test your vacuum pump/ oil is having the hose hooked up to the pump with the micron gauge on the other end to make sure your hose is good too. Love your one hose set up. Your videos are the reason I went to that after numerous times of having manifolds or hoses not being vacuum rated and failing trying to pull a system or package unit down.
Another great video Zac... hope to see you at the next HVAC symposium in Florida!
I concur, fully opening the suction valve under vac will suck the oil out of the compressor. I've done it both ways and one makes for a much quieter operation. Personally, I pre- charge the lineset after evac to not have it under any negative pressure, when opening the valves.
I have a selection of vacuum pumps but one in particular is a lot of fun. It's a 17CFM 2 stage belt driven vacuum pump. This thing will pull a 4 or 5 plex down at the SAME time to less than 100 microns in barely 15 minutes. I use a very small air tank as a vacuum reservoir to connect multiple hoses (up to 6) simultaneously.
What's it called, I'm trying to see that thing?
Incredible job. 👍 Everything is correct and your technique is great. Another tip for fast and deep vacuums is to get or make a Tee fitting that will allow you to attach both ends of your single vacuum hose together end to end in a closed loop with no valve cores on each end, and then you can attach a nitrogen hose to the 3rd fitting WITH a core in it so you can purge the vac hose full of dry nitrogen under just a tiny bit of pressure (like 1 or 2 PSI) to prevent wet air ingress while in storage. Attach the nitrogen hose, attach the ends together, tighten one and crack the other, and then flow nitrogen for a couple seconds to blow alllllll the air out before reducing the pressure a lot and tightening that fitting. Store the hose like that and it will not get full of water molecules while in storage. Those water molecules have to be evacuated too when you vacuum a system and it just adds more volume of gas that has to be removed which adds time. Manifold gauges should be stored like that too, or with some clean refrigerant left in them at a low pressure to avoid air ingress. Also check the integrity of your hose seals, core tool, and manifolds by bench testing them every 2 weeks. Pull a deep vacuum on them like testing the vacuum pump oil and then seal them off and let them sit for 5-6 hours or even overnight. Core tool seals are particularly important to test because it's a shaft seal that has to seal a moving rod rather than a fixed seal which is just clamped down firmly. If you have a really old core removal tool that you never cleaned and lubed or bench tested, it may very well surprise you to see that it's leaking a good amount of pressure and vacuum. We don't accept leaks! New seals and Nylog are cheap and it lets us sleep well at night. 😺
Why do all that work and buy expensive fittings jussst to be able to use one hose at the end? At that point I rather use 2 hoses one at the liquid and one at the suction and 3 valve core removal tools or one single hose process with one core removal tool and micron gauge at the liquid??? Doesn’t that sound easiest?
Everything is not correct. Larger ID hose takes LONGER to evac and pull down. Think about it.
@@rickjames6948 no it doesn't. The length of the hose is short. As such is negligible and will pull down very quickly. The internal ID means a stronger vacuum source on the system, which pulls it down quicker.
Say that again. Maybe video what you just said. I can’t visualize. Thanks
I gotcha. Had to read again. Great tip. Thanks. That’s my biggest gripe! My vacuum hoses getting dirty in storage.
Your channel is great! Just came across it today. Will be a daily stop for studying as I am in school right now. Thanks for the content!
I do both setups. Most of the time I like having two hoses then valve off the liquid line and let it continue to pull down. Force of habit on large commercial systems or contaminated systems to use two hoses. New installs one hose all day long.
I like a core removal tool on the the micron gauge to reduce oil getting in it when you release the charge.
You don’t need a core removal at the liquid line. Once your vaccum is where you want it to be then then you can remove the micron gauge and you shouldn’t loose your vaccum because you’re not suppose to remove the shredded valve in the liquid line and then you can add the refrigerant in the system
@@emidiolopez1409 if it's still in a vacuum when you take off your micron gauge off the liquid service port you're going to be sucking in non-condensables.
@@sirfishalot6992 I do 100 microns and turn off my pump and wait about 15 minutes to make sure it doesn’t rise and then I remove my micron gauge with the pump being off so I do believe it won’t suck any moisture in the lines
@@emidiolopez1409 you take the micron gauge off the liquid line port while the line is still in a vacuum?
@@sirfishalot6992 I do it exactly how he does it on the video but I just remove my micron gauge to keep it oil free. The way he does it on the video he leaves his micron gauge while adding refrigerant
I does all the work, I'm HVAC maintenance supervisor and 24 years experience in Kuwait. If I got chance to work in USA i pray God to bless the person who takes me
Fieldpiece definitely the way to go. I just personally bought the 4 port gauges. With that vacuum, and flushing the lineset. I achieve 500 microns in like 10 minutes. Two hose setup with 3/8 vacuum hose actually rated for vacuum and not just charge.
The fieldpiece digital gauges with built in micron gauge gives you false microns readings.. yeah you pull down 500 microns on your gauge but the real reading if you would of had a micron gauge at the liquid line port it would be 300 microns difference
So technically you was at about 200microns..meaning 500 microns happened way before you thought you did..
I have guys who cant pull below 700 microns on their digital gauges when reality is they are at 400 microns if they would use the micron gauge and not the digital manifold gauges
There are a few reasons why I agree with the ONE hose vacuum setup for HVAC installations. First, it is much more efficient because you have one less hose to move around. Second, it is more organized and neater looking. And finally, it is easier to use and less likely to cause problems.
Thanks a lot for such a detailed explanation with this new fancy Vacuum Pump. Im still considering on purchasing one. Really love the Technology behind it. With that large hose and that high tech pump you shouldn’t have a problem pulling a good vacuum with just one hose and you demonstrated in such efficient manner. Once again Thank you.
I’m with you on this especially using the Navac 2cfm battery vacuum I just got from trutech tools and the electric flaring tool also don’t know how I lived with out this and why it did not come out years ago
2 cfm seems like a joke but the battery idea seems genius. I don’t have one
@@murkyturkey5238 get it you won’t regret it but get a 9amp battery so you have the 5 amp that comes with it and the 9 I have used mine about 20 times and I have saved about 30% or more in time on every job
I have their mini split flaring tool best tool ever
I have the same setup. I have had really good experiences with my fieldpiece stuff. I've had some other techs say they are junk but I'm sure it's the whole Ford vs Chevy argument, both good but you cannot tell people different from what they like because of their own experiences.
Anybody who hates on feildpiece stuff just can't afford it lol.
Toyota
Fieldpiece “stuff” is actually the cheapest. Not sure about the HVAC equipment, but their meters are so unprofessional and unreliable that they cannot be NIST certified with a calibration certificate. Show up to an industrial site with a Fieldpiece meter and automation engineers, electricians, and site facility technicians will most likely assume you’re a rookie for not knowing to use a professional instrument.
you should put a core removal tool on your liquid line with your micron gauge so that when you break the vacuum with freon that you dont get it in your micron gauge which can affect its accuracy over time will mess them up
I love your work Zach. But I got to say doing a two hose set up with the micron gauge on the suction side DOES NOT give you an inaccurate reading whatsoever. I pretty much only use a two hose set up and not only is it faster, (especially when pulling on a used coil) but the decay test proves just how low the micron count is. Either way, your set up is a beast but just thought I’d share my thoughts on your reasoning for only 1 hose
Been pulling vacuums like that for many years with zero problems.
@@seanmathews1826 same
You’re first statement is a miss I think
New install 1 hose and two core tools to isolate the guage, when replacing a compressor I use 2 hoses as the oil takes much longer to get down.
Bingo ..i do the same..when i do a used system at some point in my vacuum i close one of the vaccum hoses usually the one next to the micron gauge let it run on one hose so my micron gauge gives me the real reading..i have some coworkers who say they also pull to 100microns everytime and its because they getting the vacuum pump reading in the mix
I've been taught to not just pull the vacuum to the correct reading but to let the vacuum pump continue to pull vacuum for up to an hour to ensure that any water that has vaporized has been totally pulled out of the system. Otherwise if you don't leave it on long enough you may have some water vapor in some crevice in the line set or valve that has not been evacuated out of the system. I live in south Louisiana where we have very high humidity and that could be one of the reasons it is taught to do so.
Thanks for a good explanation of your technique and equipment. 🙂
I always braze with nitrogen then high pressure test and do the triple Evac until my microns are below 500. Seemed like I was having a few new units that were running with some noncondensibles. I was told by an engineer that you normally don’t want to pressure test a system that is pumped down over 250psi. Supposedly the valves are not great at holding excessive back pressure and can cause a small amount of nitrogen to leak back into the condenser. Especially if the pressure you’re testing are higher than the pressure inside the condenser.. I’m not sure how true it is, but I have started to pressure test 200psi or lower, double checking my connections with bubbles and have had much better results.
I've experimented with the two hose set up and single hose, pulling through a manifold the "old school" methods. I decided the single hose method works best for me. Although I use a core tool/valve on the liquid line as well so I can isolate my micron gauge and keep it oil free.
Okay but why can’t you just leave the shredded valve in the liquid line and remove your micron gauge when you’re about to add refrigerant?? Not saying your way is wrong though
@@emidiolopez1409 when unscrewing the micron gauge from the valve it’s possible for the system to suck in moisture when the schrader is still partially depressed, I bought a C&D valve core depressor tool to hook my micron gauge to
@@emidiolopez1409 you can compromise your vacuum pull.
@@skrt_n6518 I’ve been doing a single hose process like the video shows but I usually remove my micron gage before adding refrigerant( shredded valve still in). I do believe it wont suck moisture in the lines because when you remove your micron gage you lose a bit of your microns so youre basically pushing pressure out of your liquid line not pulling air out of the shredded valves thats why its important to get a really good vaccum so you still stay below 500 mic incase you lose that many microns when you remove your micron gage.
@@emidiolopez1409 100%
Stumble across your channel! Very clear and properly explained what and why you do what you do thanks! And just subscribed!.
Love your channel bro, but seeing your evac setup in the thumb nail, the main question i had was "no bluVac Micron gauge?" 😋
That aside, you do raise some good points, and depending on the system I am working on, will often only pull one of my trublu hoses from my kit for the job... however I work primary on grocery systems, so mileage will vary there. I also carry two pumps on my truck, the VP87, and VPX7, and sometimes will use both on one circuit. i will however use one hose per pump, so I guess I'm still on the up there. lol Good vid all the same.
Also kudos on the carry container for your evac kit. exactly the same packout one I use for mine. You know whats up. 😆
2 ton split/evacuating condenser/35’ of line set/evaporator coil. Had lots of moisture. Pressure tested. Dropped 5 psi within an 1 hr and 15 minutes.
Not sure if that’s a leak?
Thought possibly my hose had a bad gasket? System has been showing some serious moisture boiling off.
Checked my gaskets.
Changed to the one hose set up. Exactly like what is in this video. To eliminate any extra fittings and potential leaks.
quick tip ive noticed my core depressor will leak slightly if threaded all the way in, so i always make sure the adjust it while the vacuum is being pulled and monitor if any changes in my micron gauge happen. i use the supco SF5050 i do not use integral core depressors in the hose.
Great video. Just to let you know most manufacturers if not all recommend opening your suction valve first very slowly. This is to prevent compressor oil loss into the discharge line.
Thanks for the clear and to the point video. I’m in school now and trying to learn everything.
You always giving us the game much love bro
HVAC TEAM!
Thanks. I like this a lot. Kinda just thrown into this. Love the instructions and straight to the point video!!!!!
The 'One Hose' set-up is the way to go for residential....if you're doing things the right way.
Fewest leak points, most accurate reading of vacuum on the system, less hoses and core tools.
On most systems, if I'm replacing a drier, evap coil, or a compressor I'll usually just pull through my 4-valve manifold....with the refrigerant tank already on the charging hose. Quickest way to get it back in service. Most every company around here pulls a 2 cig vacuum if they aren't purging -- even owning a manifold with a built-in micron gauge is next level around here.
How many microns is that. ? Smoking 100s or rolling your own
@@douglasprobst7725 I don't know WHAT some of the installers around here are smoking, honestly....
Thanks man. That one hose set up is callin my name. Appreciate the walk through of it.
All Trane/American standard units say to pressure test to 150psi. We had 6-12 units where the nitrogen wound up contaminating the refrigerant due to it pushing through the service valves during a pressure test. We thought there were leaks due to the pressure dropping, only to find out it was leaking into the outdoor. At the high cost of 410a that can be an expensive mistake.
Bro, nothing can stop a trane 🛑
@@samalmo I can
Sounds like someone did not use use a wet rag or cool gel when brazing their copper and the valves warped
@@seanshadysullivan4401 I've had it on minisplits where I pressure tested to 600 psi and it was leaking past the valves kept looking for a leak inside.
@@HVAC544 I would squirt bubbles on all my flared fittings
thanks for this video, just little suggestion, in the future can you make quick close screenshot or take a few second to shot for any host connections for your test and installation, thanks
Very good work like it . I m that kind of person that I said, I learn. Something every single day. And I learn something on your video. Thanks for sharing
I do more refrigernation than AC and maybe that is why i do this but I find the smaller the system the more important it is to keep the vac gauge away from the pump, also on really small stuff I find my appion hoses pull too fast and I get mositure freezing in the system if I am not careful. On larger systems it is gonna take awhile to pull a good vacuum regardless, I was on a walk in cooler for a high school that was started up like 6 months ago (not by my company) that has a 3ft tall reciever (the system takes more than a full can of 448a), I had to flush and vacuum the whole system the other day. I didn't want to start shit so I kept my mouth shut to the customer but the install team screwed the pooch on that system. I was there because the evaporator was dripping on the floor, heavy frosting on the entry side of the evap, big shocker low charge, the valve core was so loose it was dripping liquid, I charged it to a clear sight glass the compressor cycled off and that when I saw it, sand cloth dust floating in the sight glass lots of it. I talked to the MFG because it was still under warrenty and suggested that we needed to flush the system or this compressor won't make it even to the end of the warrenty, they agreed and I spent the next few hours on a cold windy roof, lol good times, also thats the first time I have seen so much dust in a system that it was immidantly apparent in the sight glass. Great videos too man keep up the good work.
Experience doesn't matter if you've been doing it wrong! 🤣 Nice shirt 👍
Just fyi when using the test tightness feature if you ever have a neg pressure diff that means something is leaking. Either your hoses, manifold, or system. Technically you are supposed to use the temp clamp with the pressure test, as it monitors the temp of the pipe while being pressurized. This prevents false readings.
Nice setup. I like to run the pump for a bit before I check the oil, that way if I do a an oil change, the brunt of the work has been done with the old stuff.
Nice setup and install. Here in my area in Texas that would fail inspection for being too close to the gas meter and for disconnect behind the unit.
could u vaccc it from the liquid line too and put the micron cage on the vapor port ?
The only issue I see is when removing your micron gauge the way you hooked it up like you said it might let in the air which it does. I use a low lost fitting or use a valve core remover on both liquid and suction. Depends on which style you have Low loss fittings you have to spin a knob to press the core down or away to shut it close (front seat/ back seat) so you reduce the amount of air going back into the system. I have the Appion AV760 micron gauge and I can’t let refrigerant hit the sensor.
this is basically exactly the setup i want. Have that pump or the newest version of that pump. Getting a micron gauge and hopefully one of those hoses Monday. Curious to test how i was taught to do it compared to the right way.
1:47 - When would it be appropriate to purge with nitrogen before pressuring for the test?
Great videos brother. I share with my employees as much as I can
You use the micron gauge on the liquid side while your vacuum hose is on the liquid side. Where would you set up your micron gauge say, on a mini split system with only a hose hookup on the suction side?
I’m just getting into HVAC as a career and begin classes next month. My question is does the company you work for supply these tools (vacuum, guages, etc.) or is it up to you to buy your own?
Company will supply the tools,you might not get brand new. but eventually you’ll want to buy them on your own.
Depends on the company. Most companies I know of will provide you with a recovery machine, vacuum pump, and ladders. You might get passed hand me downs if your team is cool, but manifolds, torches, meters, hand tools, etc, is all on you. Some companies even give annual tool allowances.
My experience with Fieldpiece has been they're the Chrysler of HVAC; well designed, creative good ideas, but poorly built. When I had barbed nipples snap off my manometer (everyone else has steel barbed nipples) I said, "no more." Remember their blue temp K clamps? We had to wrap them with electrical tape day one.
I like the one hose setup. I've been doing for years. I'll bet my apprentice doesn't know you can pull a vacuum with manifold gauges.
Lmao honestly
Yeah I lost one nipple on my Fieldpiece manometer already. From carelessly removing a vinyl tube that was on there too long I think. But I agree, they're extremely flimsy plastic.
Been a fan of ur channel for a while great work, my only question why there is a lot of oil in your vacuum machine?
Curious do you have videos on refrigerant recovery with field piece vacuum
ThNks and great videos
Can you do a video of must have tools when starting
3:22 i recommend releasing nitrogen as quickly as possible via the quarter hose valve so all dirt are released more efficiently. You'll always have tiny copper shavings while making your flares.
Tama ka!
@@EDNOC mali
Your idea makes sense in theory, but I’ve found this to be irrelevant in actual practice. I recently pulled a vac on a 10 ton split with about 70ft of piping. I had two tru blue hoses with a tee and micron gauge at the condenser and another micron gauge at a service port in the air handler. I was mainly doing this to check the difference of my two micron gauges. They were both reading within 10 microns of each other while pulling. It seems like after a few minutes of vacuum time the difference becomes irrelevant. I prefer a two hose set up because it will ultimately pull a vacuum faster, although on smaller residential units that time difference also becomes pretty insignificant. Kind of a wash at that point.
Can this setup be useful in commercial systems as well?
Nice! ... and where can I get a hose like that, but, with 1/4" fittings on either end?
Thanks again for another tip I learn alot from watching your channel.
my new navac pump has a built in micron gauge which is great 👍 one more less tool to lug around
I love this setup, techniques and equipment. But man the cost of that blue hose is probably more than that pump last time I checked. Gotta mortgage the house for some of this stuff. I agree quality wins in the end tho.
About time you address a decayed vacuum test.
When you found out how that it only drop 0.06 psi and you start releasing what were you releasing was it the nitrogen are something else? And how many minutes are second of nitrogen do you put in the system to pressure check?
Great Job 😉👍🏽Is That The Same GMC With Out The Cap And Tool Rool Out
Good stuff, bosch and the concord lynx , specifies open suction first
Great job Zack on this one
Best way to pull a vacuum with 3 port field piece gauge and anti blow back hoses? I have the same setup as you I just don’t have the hand held micron gauge.
Where did you get the Compressed nitrogen in that aluminum cylinder. I cannot find a supply house that carries the aluminum cylinders.
I heard you mention that releasing the freon to the micron gauge won't affect the sensor. I've always been taught to take the micron gauge out of the circuit before releasing the freon. Does fieldpiece operating instructions that come with that micron gauge say that it's okay for freon to be introduced to the micron gauge. I have the same micron gauge. I don't want to mess it up lol. Nonetheless Love your videos appreciate the knowledge. 🤠👍🏽
Edit: I looked at the instruction manual for the micron gauge and it's rated for 870 PSIG.
Could you put the vacuum gauge on a core removal tool, and just valve it off when you open the refrigerant?
Да, ты сможешь
Yup it’s what I do so refrigerant doesn’t splash back on my sensor
The removal core tool has no schrader core ? How can u do it to depress the core ? I use a yellow jacket ball valve to isolate micron gauge and break the vacuum with Freon
@@ericpalacios3568 I use a ball valve to isolate the micron gauge. How can u use a core removal tool ? They don’t have a schrader core inside
I like your camera setup Zack. Looks very professional and clear. I am looking to record my hvacr calls but looking for a cheap good camera to get started. Any suggestions will be helpful. Good work. Keep em coming
Can’t wait to try this set up thank you !
What do you do to keep refrigerant from going back into the micron gauge or is this not a problem?
Learned a TON! Great stuff like always. Thank you
Soy un admirador de su trabajo. Yo también me dedico a lo mismo y algún día me gustaría ser tan bueno como usted y tener toda esa herramienta que te facilita mucho el trabajo. Para hacer trabajos perfectos.
Quisiera saber si puede subir video con un equipo minisplit haciéndole la prueba con nitrógeno, me gustaría ver ese procedimiento y aprender. Muchas gracias por subir y compartir sus videos.
De antemano muchas gracias y espero y le llegue el mensaje y me de una respuesta. Cuidese atentamente un servidor y admirador.
You can use the wireless temp clamps with the SM480V digital manifold?
My only question is did you pressure test to 450 psi? Some manuals actually state only pressure test up to 150 psi. I used to always fill up to 300psi until my boss said read the manual! Lol awesome video!
What did the low side design test pressure say on the name plate?
Always go off the low pressure side on the name plate. It will tell you the max design pressure.. I keep it a bit under that. From what I have been told if you don't bring your pressure high enough you may miss a leak..
The book for my American Standard/Trane units says around 175. Honestly not sure why? I do like it higher but I follow the book. My vacuum tells me how tight I am also.
TBH i was told only go 150PSI because u have a chance of blowing out the TXV but not 100% sure. so I've been told thats all
I usually do about 200 - 250 psi but i didn't know about that 150 psi limit.
Trane and American standard recommend pressure testing to 250 psi, anymore will push through the service valves so I’ve been told. I do the same thing with vacuum though tru blu on the suction line and my BluVac micron gauge on the liquid
Yeah I usually do 200-250 there’s no reason to do it that high except to waste nitrogen
You crack the valves then put thr Schrader back in? Still trying to learn the sequence
Can this method work on any type of vacuum pump? I’m new to this trade and haven’t had the opportunity to be in the field. I can’t wait
Appreciate you sharing your expertise. God Bless
What boots are you wearing by chance? Or are there particular brands you would recommend for someone getting into the field?
What kind of hoses do you use for Vacuum pump ? and where do you buy them from? thank you
Great vid, thanks! I see you have the Appion reclaim, and so do I. I'm looking at purchasing a new vac pump and noticed you've got the Fieldpiece vac pump and not the Appion, any reason? Was the Fieldpiece better? Cheers from Australia.
That's a great vacuum procedures could this be done with a normal vacuum pump i mean not as fancy as the one u used on this video
Good day boss from Ghana 🇬🇭 please is it necessary for HVAC TECHNICIAN to learn HVAC systems design... Wait for your feedback
In that set up there. Do you add nitrogen ? For triple evac? What if lines freeze, wouldn't you need to add nitrogen? Is this setup bad for triple evac ?
Where do you get rid of your contaminated oil?
Are you still using the vp87 ?? Have you considered the vpx7??
I would like to know where you got the blue hose at I looked all over Nashville cannot find it would love to know where to get them in what What size are both ends
So the refrigerant gets released into the atmosphere?
Great tips man I love your vids .. keep it up 💪
What does it mean if once you get vac down to 100 and let it sit for 10-15 minutes? Does that necessarily mean a leak?
Thank you for going above and beyond 250 😂
It’s the best way to vacuum a small split system. No doubt
I hear what you’re saying with the 1 hose set up being furthest away from the pump. I’d still rather use 2 hoses with two core pullers. Have the micron gauge on the side port on the core puller of the liquid line. When you need check microns, valve off the core puller on the liquid line so you are not longer pulling on the micron gauge directly and you will still have an accurate reading. But I guess when you are pulling on such tiny systems it’s not like you’re saving that much time anyway with the two hose setup. To each his own I guess.
Good. How do get the air out?
What a process.. hope to do that one too here with tools like that