How To Replace A Front Axle Shaft Seal (RH Front) Chevy GMC
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- Опубликовано: 17 мар 2021
- How to fix a Leaking Front Axle Output Shaft Seal for 2008 and newer Chevy and GMC 4X4 trucks.
Don't Follow the older RUclips videos showing early 2000 trucks. There are 2 key differences, and one key difference that will cause you big problems. The older trucks you could just hammer out the shaft, the new trucks have a retaining clip that must be removed before the axle will come out!
I will show you step by step how to replace the front right or passengers side axle output shaft seal. It took me 5 hours to do in my garage. It required limited tools and best of all saved me over $470 by doing it myself vs taking it to the dealer. The dealer wanted 3.3 hours of labour plus tax and I'm sure shop fees etc. on top of that.
By using these links I may earn an affiliate commission, which helps support the channel.
75W90 Gear Oil: amzn.to/3eus8Md
Pump so you don't spill like me: amzn.to/3TrpoOs
Brake and Parts cleaner: amzn.to/3TmHWiL
Tools required:
3/8" and 1/2" Ratchet
1/2" swivel joint for sockets / ratchet
1/2" extensions
22mm and 15mm sockets both shallow and deep
7/8" Socket if you are taking off your tire
Breaker Bar
Lock ring pliers with 90 degree tips
Chisel
Hammer
Brake Clean
Paper towel
Other nice to have tools:
Impact Wrench
Pry Bars
Trolley Jack
Oil Transfer Tool to fill differential
Ratchet Strap
Parts Required:
Seal - Part number 23196678
75W90 Gear Oil 2 Liters (A little more if you spill like me)
Post your questions in the comments section bellow and I will be sure to get back to you to help you out. 
Авто/Мото
Let me know if you have any questions on this job and I will do my best to help you out. Thanks for watching!
Wasn’t there a paper gasket between the “pumpkin” and the axle housing you removed? (The part that actually housed the axle shaft). Let me know, have to do this myself soon…
@@danc5477Yes there was on mine, I talk about it at 12:40 in the video. I used some sealant to just hold the paper gasket in place while I got it up into position. The earlier model truck just use sealant.
I’m trying to slide the stub shaft back in and it will not slide into its original position as I turn and gently push
@@charlesbrisebois2435 Did it slide out pretty easy? I'm guessing if you got it out you have the older version with the spring clip vs the retaining clip and snap ring. I haven't done one of those but it's will take some force to get the end of the shaft back into that spring clip, about the same force as it took to pull it out. Then you also have to get it to line up with the center differential gearing.
Did you use any special tools?
Dude! You saved me so much time and headache!! Thank you and great video
thank you your video it was a huge help, all kinds of videos for the driver side but not passenger side, totaly different procedure
Thanks for the video! I'm about to tackle this job on my '99 Sierra.
Excellent video! I just done this to my 2011 HD and it saved me a lot of time. The snap ring was definitely a pain is the rear. I am now tackling the left side. Would you happen to know if the axle shaft can be pulled out or is it held in with a snap ring and require complete disassembly of the gear set. Appreciate any info you can provide.
Great Video. Well explained.
Thanks I hope it helped!
Good Job! Very informative! Getting ready to do this on my 08
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video and it will be helpful to you.
@@ResearchDesignBuild Does this need to be replaced? I don't even use 4 wheel drive.
@@AD-eq4kn yes. The diff is still doing work either way. I’m getting ready to do this job today as well.
Nice video! Thank so much for taking the time to do it. I've done the seal on the other side before (much easier), but this one definitely needed some instruction!
Glad it helped! Make sure to subscribe there will be more things coming that I'm sure will also help you out.
i have an 01 that has an issue with this washer, i need to pull it apart, this video still helped
Glad it helped you out! Thanks for watching.
@@ResearchDesignBuild pulled an axle from a 98 and the internals were the same, just the outside was cast iron and the two bolt holes to the frame were off a little, i just gutted it and used what i needed, cannot believe how easy it was
@@JoeHynes284 Yes there are a lot of similarities between generations. Engineers are creatures of habit, a bit lazy, and if it ain't broke... In truth there is a lot of liability and cost in designing something completely new vs just slightly changing something that is well tested and known.
Great Video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks so much for video I have broken inner shaft and axle housing and waiting for them to arrive from rock auto.
Go to gm /chevy dealer they have alll of that
What if your axle came out on its own with the cv when doing ball joints ?
Great video. Do you even need to lift and take wheel off or could you do without it? Just wondering since I have no place to safely lift my truck and gonna start this today
If mine is broke will it make a loud ticking noise when driving
You can also loosen the front diff bracket bolts that bolt above to the frame just loosen them aluttle then you can push up on the bracket to get more clearance to remove housing.
Beautiful. The concrete in my uncles garage is so heaved lmao
What is the gasket that connect the axle shaft housing to the pumpkin or what material did you use to put it back
It is just a thin paper gasket. I was able to re-use mine. I just added a thin coat of black gasket maker to it on both sides to help it seal and more so to keep it in place during re-assembly. The older trucks didn't have this gasket and just used gasket maker. I would just get one from your local FORD dealership, based on your VIN they will be able to make sure you have the right one. It should be pretty inexpensive.
Couple questions…I have an 04 Yukon AWD and the housing that you removed in this video to change the seal on cracked on mine so I need to change it. I got the part, basically the same one as you have here but without the mount for the 4WD actuator, anyhow, does the 2004 have that split ring like yours did? Also, what other seals and bearings do I need to get? I cannot find anything on line with the part numbers listed for my truck so I can’t figure out the bearings / seals and what gasket I need to get for it. Thanks!
Try this link - www.gmpartsdirect.ca/a/GMC_2004_Yukon-Denali-Sport-Utility-60L-Vortec-V8-AT-AWD/_84589_6378554/DRIVE-AXLES-AXLE-SHAFTS--JOINTS-DIFFERENTIAL-FRONT-AXLE-PROPELLER-SHAFT/T010060.html
Looks like you need Differential Drive Pinion Oil Deflector, and Drive Axle Shaft Seal, and finally Drive Axle Shaft Bearing. Being a 2004 I don't believe that you have the same retainer snap ring holding the axle in. When in doubt I would just go talk to the parts guy at your local dealer. Or even any of the good aftermarket parts stores. They will be able to give you a breakdown of what you need.
@@ResearchDesignBuild awesome… thanks. Now as soon as it gets a little warmer out, I can put this wreck back on the road again. Lol
Thanks for the video. I am having problems sliding the axle from the differential due to the two mounting bolts sticking down from the mount on the wheel side. They are protruding down far enough to prevent the axle from sliding out and I'm stuck. I've loosened the mount bolts from the wheel side and tried lifting that mount out of the way, but it's simply not enough room. Any ideas? Thanks.
Have you turned the wheel all the way to the right? Then I lifted the axle up and held it up with a rachet strap. That gave me just enough room.
@@ResearchDesignBuild I finally got it. Thank you!
@@razorsharpbt124 any time! Glad you got it, it is a tight fit.
I bought my 1500 in 2018 and been doing as much of the myself as I can, but I always thought it was so strange that all the bolts on my Chevy are metric
Is the seal the same on both sides mine is leaking from both and I live in the northwest and I can't even use 4x4 in the winter cause it leaks so bad.
Best thing to do it call the dealership and get them to run your VIN and confirm the parts. I'm not 100% sure if its the same left and right. And it's really had to drive back to the parts store to get the right seal when you truck is all tore apart. Not that it has ever happened to me before....
What is the part number on this seal ? I’m having a hard time finding one for my 2013 gmc Denali 2500 6.6 4x4
I would check out www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle-seal/gmc/sierra-2500-hd/2013
Best thing to do is call the guys at the parts counter, either at a place like autozone, or even the dealership. They can use your VIN number and make sure the part fits and even show you an exploded view usually so you can make sure you are getting the right seal. Dealerships are sometimes more expensive, but recently I have found most prices on stuff like seals fairly reasonable. I got all my part at the dealership and it was cheaper there than at the local auto parts store.
I’m having a problem sliding the stub shaft into the diff I didn’t remove the housing like you did, I just slid the shaft out and replaced the seal, just trying to get the shaft back in is my problem
Did u get a answer, I'm having same problem
Hope you guys got it figured out. It does take a bit of effort to get it sealed back in properly as there is that little spring clip that prevents it from coming out easily, but that same clip prevents it from going in easy as well.
What part number is the seal? this seal seems much larger than the one I’m getting back from the parts store. Thanks and great video.
Also, does the entire part come off and is replaced or do you remove the part and only replace the inner part which is the seal and reuse the outer part ?
On my04 GMC Yukon AWD, there doesn’t seem to be any gasket or sealer where the housing bolts to the diff. I can’t seem to find anything on line as to weather or not there actually is any form of gasket used on the diff. end. Also the seal on the other end, it looks nothing like yours or the stock one. It is the same size but I’m not sure which side goes into the housing.
The early truck didn't have a gasket and they used a liquid product that might appear as though there was nothing there. I would use a little bit of gasket maker to re-seal it. Without seeing the seal you have it's pretty hard to assist you. Maybe check with the store you got the seal from.
@@ResearchDesignBuild thanks again. When I cleaned all the o and gunk off the old housing I did see they had used a very small amount of some sort of sealer, and when I say very small I mean very small lol. I put the new bearing in the new housing and the new seal, I put it solid side down like the old one was, I’ll see how that works out lol. I’ll go see if I can figure out what the best sealer/ gasket maker to use is… thanks a lot!
@@hdrjunkie No Problem, the factory uses very little. You don't want the squeeze out falling off inside and rolling around in the oil. Probably not the best thing.
@@ResearchDesignBuild yeah, I thought about that. Probably only needs a little any how because there’s a sort of “lip” on the housing that sits inside the differential. Thanks for the help.
6:00 the 08 I’m working on now has the same clip!
At 11:45 in the video when you drop the washer with ears in, did you put the c clip over that or is there an additional washer between the c clip and the washer with ears?
The C-Clip goes around the shaft right on top of that thick washer with ears.
@@ResearchDesignBuild thank you for the quick response, all the other videos I see are pre 2011 and they have an additional washer. I’ve been going insane looking all over for this non-existent washer. Reason I’m looking for it, I can turn the axle fine with the c clip on over the eared washer, but when I install that shaft to the rest of the diff I can’t turn the axle by hand any more like it’s engaging the 4wd. But my actuator is all the way in you can see it before I install, I’m maybe thinking I should get a new axle shim washer mine has some heat marks/little lines that almost look like cracks, and looks like maybe it’s thinner than spec. My axles were banging around pretty bad and maybe flattened that washer. My leveling kit is turned up pretty high and i was missing the limiting straps causing my axles to bottom out the suspension rather than the straps. What are your thoughts?
@@Nate_Brown11 I don't think that little washer will make that much of a difference. Mine was also showing a little wear but it went back together just fine. I would double check that you have everything lined up correctly and engaging properly. The lift would probably affect the half shafts and joints there, more so that then stub shaft that is part of this axle assembly.
@@ResearchDesignBuild Thank you for your help sir, your quick response to comments and your for your video. I believe it’s the only one that shows the 2011-2014 platform for this repair. All the other videos are early models and I’m sure you know like I do a lot is similar but changed for 2011+. Got it all back together and she drives nice, no leaks something must’ve not been lining up beforehand.
@@Nate_Brown11 Great to hear! Happy that it is all back together and working well for you. The whole point of these video's for me is helping out other people trying to do work themselves.
Did you need an alignment afterwards?
No you do not as you aren't touching any of the suspension parts that affect your alignment.
Hi There,My chevy making very loud noise while driving 4x4 , is it broken front differential?
It might be. Does it still make a sound when you are in 2 wheel drive?
@@ResearchDesignBuild no,driving 4x4 only
@@tinhtran1309 My guess is that it has something to do with the 4x4 actuator not engaging correctly. You will have to take it apart and see what is broken or worn out. Hopefully it hasn't spread metal through everything else in the differential.
Did you have to drain the dif first?
Yes you do. Its a great time to change out the fluid too.
Buen trabajo a migo gracias
Does anyone happen to know the washers part number?
Great job. It's all about those dollars back in the pocket
Thanks, and absolutely. Especially these days you have to find jobs that can pay you back.
Is this the same on 1500 trucks?
Sorry for the late reply. The design is very similar but the parts are all a little smaller. So the process should be very close, but shaft will be smaller with fewer splines, seal will be different, etc. But all the same parts in all the same places, just lighter duty and smaller.
Do you have a gasket number and brand?
I just re-used the old gasket as it was still in perfect condition. I would buy it from the dealership. Even the seal I found to be less expensive at the dealer than I did at the jobber stores.
Never met a painter who could afford a modern Chevy and Festool gear, you must be damn good.
Thanks for the vid, it was the most clear one I could find. I don't know what you normally post but I'll sub and see what you do. Nathan's right, the intro's a little long, I can look past it for the info but the majority of morons on RUclips fixing their truck will just click the next vid.
Uh uh uh uh uh.. my God I'm drunk taking a shot everytime u said uh lmfao.. thanks for the video besides the uh part..
uh Thanks for uh watching...
How many time does it take?
The Dealership says it takes them 3.3 hours, it took me about 5 hours to do as it was the first time I was doing it and filming as well.
Would be nice to know the torque specs
Hey thank you for the video very informative I have a 01 Chevy Tahoe and the front differential is similar to my mines my Right side is leaking, my question is should I replace both sides since I’m doing right side? , oh and btw I drop whole differential I guess I didn’t need to do that but hey you learn
I only did the one side that was leaking. Sometimes you open things up and can make things worse, so as the old saying goes, if it isn't broken, don't fix it.
What causes the damage to occur? Rough roads or potholes?
Probably dirt and debris slowly working it's way into he seal from the outside. I got 180,000km (108,000 miles) out of my seal. So that isn't bad.
@@ResearchDesignBuild do you think we need to replace the bearing as well? How has the new seal been working for you?
@@jrm163 No issues with my seal at all currently. The replacement of the bearings will be on a case by case basis. I replaced my seal when it just started to leak so I figured it didn't get much stuff into it. If yours has leaked for along time, them stuff could have leaked in as well.
Good video. The seal is supposed to be airside out, Looked backwards to me. Hopefully im wrong
I just put it back on the way the old one came off. And I don't have any leaks and all seems to be good. Thanks for watching!
That’s what I thought??
Nice garage floor to be putting stuff directly onto it why not put down a painter's tarp or cardboard to protect your beautiful job it would also give you a more professional look ... RESPECT
Good vid, but you need to show removal/installation instead of just explaining that you removed n installed. I.E., the snapring. Pliers do not fit inside housing on my 08. Show me how you did it
Sorry it's a really tight space to get into so very hard to film. I did use snap ring pliers to get in there and spread the clip apart and then used a hook tool I have to pull it up. I'm not sure there is a really nice way of doing it as it isn't really a proper snap ring with the holes in it for snap ring pliers.
What year vehicle is this?
This is a 2011 2500 HD 4X4
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤😊
Hey great video. I have a little feedback you may want. You don't have enough viewers to be able to have a long intro. Nobody knows who you are yet and therefore people are coming here for a quick how to video. Most people on RUclips sit and talk forever before they do anything. If you focused on being a quick channel that people go to for quick instructions you would have the upper hand on everyone else. I'm talking faster than Chris fix. Because when I'm doing a job and something has me stumped i don't want to watch some guys intro. I hope this helped I think it was a great video nonetheless.
I would completely agree with you. It's a hard thing to balance and I'm not the best at keeping things short. It's something to balance between starting to build a relationship with viewers so it's not just a one quick view and done and that some people start to tune in just to see what I'm up to and build a community. I appreciate the feedback.
@@ResearchDesignBuild that makes sense. I agree there's more views in an entertainment based channel. I don't doubt that you'll grow quickly. Looking forward to tuning in
@@nathanpearce7169 Thanks Nathan!
You know you can fast forward right?
Not hating but your accent cracks me up.😂 excellent video tho
If I go through all that work, Im replacing all bearings seals and worn parts. What if next year your bearings disentigrate.I wouldn’t want to do all this work over again.
I didn't look into how much all those extra parts would cost. Probably also depends on how many miles are on your truck. My bearings all looks good and I didn't let it leak all that much before replacing the seal so I was pretty confident that the bearings were in good condition.
Shiiiit. So you're saying me using a slide hammer and the retaining ring pulls the bearing and seal out with it is a bad thing eh?
Well, you can probably put humpty dumpty back together again.
You talk to much about things not related to the task!