Oil Cooler Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- in this video the 6.0 bros tear into the project 6.0 powerstroke to replace the oil cooler! the 6.0 powerstroke has a common failure of the oil cooler. this oil cooler failure has resulted in many of the issues with the 6.0 powerstroke and is the main cause of the bad reputation the 6.0 powerstroke has had. we show you how to rebuild the oil cooler in this video and tear into the truck to get it out. A oil cooler replacement is not a bad job however it can take a fair amount of time. If you need to do an oil cooler replacement this video should help you with what you need. If you need help pulling the turbo out check the comments below for info on turbo removal.
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If anyone needs tips on turbo removal check this video out! ruclips.net/video/oeKVRd-Gn6I/видео.html
2023-- helpful! Thanks man. Did my cooler + EGR thanks to vid.
Thanks man! Glad it was helpful!
Great video man!!
I appreciate all the information, I'm about to do my 05, F350 next weekend.
Glad you liked it man. I hope it helps you out!
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful for my first oil cooler!
No problem man glad it helped
The front grill is dope
Thanks. I really like this grille. Soon time for another headlight change
Bro at 6:09 that’s quite the jump from hey removing the oil filter housing till all of a sudden the whole intake is off.
it really isnt that much overall. its a bunch of bolts out of the intake manifold then pull it. it seems like a lot more than it is because it opens so much up when you do
I was going to replace the oil cooler on my 06 with a OEM Ford. But I stopped.researched bullet proof diesel's external oil cooler. Wound up spending a lot more money putting EGR cooler bulletproof diesel external oil cooler and bypass filter. Also bulletproof diesel water pump I was going to put their radiator. But mishimoto offered radiator intercooler and hoses and clamps all in one much cheaper price. Also installed a coolant filter. Put a fan clutch wire protector. Since the heads didnt lift i i re studded the heads (arp). So i was all set to do exactly what you did. For 6-7hundred week end job.lol. 1 month and 5 k later . I think these trucks are more addictive than heroin
About to do a bunch of work on mine this up coming weekend. I have a failed EGR cooler and I've been slowly having to add water to it. My radiator sprung a small leak and coolant level got low. So now I'm going all out. New oil cooler, odawg intake, BD exhaust manifolds, Powermax turbo, Discrete Diesel y-pipe, water pump, thermostat, belt, belt tensioner, Mishimoto radiator, CSF intercooler. Can't wait to see how it will runs afterwards. I don't necessarily think the coolant re-route adapter you have is absolutely necessary. Can't you just run a hose with hose clamp straight off where it used to go to the EGR cooler, then T into the degas hose? I did buy a PPE oil cooler from Thouroughbred diesel. Hopefully it will be fine. The bypass filter barely does anything honestly. The reason is all the coolant has to still go through the cooler first, so regardless, even if you have IPR full flow coolant filter, stuff can still get trapped in the cooler first. that is why the only sure way is IPR oil cooler relocation kit which then will take advantage of filtering the coolant first before the it goes in the oil cooler, or Bullet Proof Diesel's air to oil cooler setup.
Man you have a great build man. As for the reroute you're 100% on point yes you can just take heater hose and do exactly as you said. Hope your build goes well man it sounds awesome and with a lot of parts I have used as well
6.0 Bros honestly, most of the ideas came from you. I bought one of those cheap intercooler pipes from Amazon. Decided to return it and go the No Limit route. Some other goodies on the way in the way of tuning. Anyhow, looking forward to your next live feed. By then my repairs will be complete and I can report how the truck is running 👍
@@trife78 that's awesome man I am glad my guild has helped people out in picking some great parts
I’m fairly certain this is what I have happening. Pulled the egr valve to clean it when I did an oil change this week. Gummy soot. Not good.
Besides the egr needing cleaned is anything else happening?
You looked into the bulletproof diesel air to oil heavy duty oil cooler? My delta was 60 degrees at one point when my OEM one clogged (165,000 miles). Did some extensive research on oil coolers and bit the bullet and went big. My oil is consistently 10-20 degrees cooler and I tow heavy equipment often. I was always afraid of putting an OEM cooler in. More work, but well worth it in my opinion! Love your videos, keep it up!
I think the heavy duty kit with winter prep is a great kit but I have had good luck with OEM overall
And thank you for the support
Is normal driving eot- 225 ect-200-205 on a 100 degree day normal? Just bought truck with edge cts2.
@@Ryansbbqnbrew so how to test if your oil cooler is healthy or not is to run down a flat highway or as flat as possible and drive at 65 mph and see how your temps go. You want the truck up to operating temp prior to this which is around 190 oil and coolant. The difference in temp between oil and coolant shouldn't go past 15 degrees. If it is around 15 degrees then you are at the point that your oil cooler is failing, and is clogged. Now once you are towing or going at a different speed than the 65 mph on flat highway then the temp spread is irrelevant
@@Ryansbbqnbrew sorry this is my other RUclips channel my I am the guy from the video just on my fitness channel page I am starting lol. You oil temp would come down after oil cooler replacement
Tanks you for you video, how much do tink is cost for that job?
I haven't looked up pricing for these parts recently but with oil, coolant, oil cooler with gaskets, turbo gaskets and o rings you're probably around 750ish if you do it yourself but that is really just a guess I haven't looked up prices in a long time. Xtreme diesel usually has a 10% off diesel10 use to be the code they had.
if my deltas are through the roof but no oil in the coolant, how many flushes would i need to do before changing oil cooler?
You can try a flush with some compressed air too and see what happens some people get it some still need to replace I would say try 3 flushes and if it that doesn't start to improve it I would replace
Today i learned something!
That's great man!
i got oil in the coolant tank. mechanic said it is the oil cooler. what do you think?
Your mechanic is right. It is a broken oil cooler. Your egr cooler should be replaced at the same time.
I wonder if you had the original strain of Covid during the time of this video.
I was crazy sick late 2019 as well, took me a while to recover
I don't think I did. I hope you're feeling better man!
@@six0bros ohhh waaaay better!
After the headache cleared in 3-4 days I knew I was beating what ever took over me.
I suppressed my cough with peppermint essential oil (it numbs what ever tissue it comes into contact with).
My lungs would gurgle and bubble as I breathed. Was able to hack up and dislodge phlegm.
Took a few weeks to completely clear out of my lungs.
How would you recommend priming the fuel system?
I start by before I put thr filter in cycling thr key to on and letting it push air out of the top fuel bowl. I would do that like twice then put the filter in and cycle the key on for roughly 30 seconds and then off like 5 times. I don't know what the ford procedure is if there is one but I feel this is a pretty good practice for this type of thing
@@six0bros thank you for a great video and for being so helpful and informative!
No problem glad I can help.
Hello I just did a 06 f250 oil cooler gasket replacement and now it isn’t starting any tips on what to check for ????
Most likely because the oil system isn't primed. I would check your icp and ipr and see what they are doing. If you don't refill your oil through the oil filter housing it won't prime the high pressure oil system, and will cause long cranks. Also make sure to cycle the key about 6 times to prime the fuel system
Years ago I had my oil cooler deleted. Recently I had a new one installed to address an oil leak. I went on a 6 hour drive the coolant hose y under the reservoir broke and I lost all coolant. Temp gauge did not redline but it got close. Since then coolant and oil temp has been running high (210 to 225). Coolant reservoir cap seems to “pop” and leak a bit of coolant. Also my oil pressure gauge crashes at idle. I’m thinking a plugged up oil cooler or bad install on the egr.
Wait oil cooler delete or egr delete? The y does break I have heard of it someone sells a aluminum one to replace the plastic. I wonder if your thermostat isn't maybe a little warped after the coolant leaked out and the raising temp may be increasing pressure causing the cap to pop a little bit. I would get a new cap, and replace the thermostat
We have not been able to remove manifold with turbo on... does not seem to clear the turbo and we did not see in the video how you pulled it out. TIp or trick?
No tricks. It is the only time I did that and honestly I don't know that it was worth it. I remember it kinda being a pain. So I did get it out no tricks but honestly overall not sure it was worth the headache. If I ever replace that stuff again I will show it better but probably not worth the added hassle.
It looks like you are
Using an over the top creeper?
I wish! This was at the shop I go to. I had surgery when the picture was taken and they put in my turbo since I couldn't because of restrictions. They love them though
I watched diesel tech Ron’s video and he made it look a little time consuming. But this one doesn’t seem as terrible. And I’m assuming you can change the egr cooler while you are in there to get more of a reliable “somewhat bulletproof” 6.0? Or am I wrong ?
It is a big project but very doable. Ron was a hell of a mechanic, and has lots of great info. You are also correct the egr cooler will come out at the same time and can be addressed then
6.0 Bros you just made it look pretty simple lol
Well thanks man. It truly isnt bad. However, it is a big job at the same time. Very doable though
@@six0bros i am about to do this job, but i dont understand why ron removes the turbo, but you dont. why did he go through this step and you didnt have to?
So removing the turbo does make it easier and definitely is not a bad idea. The pedestal gets in the way a bit. Also some years like early 04 and the 03 trucks the I take manifold has a crossmember at the rear of it that makes you have to remove the turbo
Wow, lot of work for a oil cooler!
It is a lot of work but a very doable job for many at home if they have the time and invest in the tools which for the most part are just basic tools
I have rust in my coolant system too and can’t figure out why
it does happen even though it sucks. It is a common issue.
If nothing is mixing and the oil temp is just over heating do you still need to flush the system?
sorry for this being old and me not responding. However you do not need to flush the system if you are not having coolant and oil mix. you may want to consider flushing if you are going to change type of coolant or are doing some maintenance on the cooling system
I gotta ask a dumb question sorry but I’m new to 6.0s I’ve been losing coolant and I’m not to sure if I should be worried but can I just add coolant to the DGAS bottle ????
sorry for taking 2 years to respond but yes just add through the degas bottle. did you find out why you were losing coolant
How did you get top half mirror cover off
Tilt your mirrors down there are 2 tabs at that top to press up on
6.0 Bros was they chrome before you painted or are they after market mirrors
@@johnross5397 they are paint to match mirror caps
How many oil coolers have you gone tho I have a 2006 f250 with 490,654 miles all original head gaskets head bolts and oil core I’ve own it sence it was new
So even though I have replaced them a few times I have only had 1 failure, amd that was a brand new factory oil cooler it was defective
So what oil cooler have you found or heard of is this best replacement for the stock one??
Another OEM oil cooler. Before replacing your factory one if it is going bad. Doing a chemical flush then making sure to get everything out pulling the drain plugs on the engine block then replacing and you should he good to go
If you run the correct coolant in your truck and your egr is either removed or working correctly, your oil cooler will never fail. If you're not sure of the quality of your coolant, flush it out and put new coolant in it, either ford gold (yellow) or cat extended life coolant (red). Make sure your oil cooler is still good though before you do that if you do that
Hi! Please help.
2008 Ford focus 1,6 duratec/Z6.
Overheating, water and oil mixing on the cooling system but not in the engine.the oil in the sump is clean. What could be the problem? Do I have to change the head gasket?
I'd really appreciate your help.
Regards :Lutendo
I'm sorry I am not much help on this I would Google it and see where oil and coolant would mix in that system. I would guess this is the likely cause of your over hearing but I just don't know enough about that vehicle to be much help
About how long did this all take?
It is hard to say. I can normally cleaning from tear down in about 2-3 hours if I'm focused but I have done this a few times. I say the average person should set aside a weekend if things go smoothly it won't take near that long though
Thanks appreciate that!
Anytime man
6.0 Bros Is there a Aftermarket way of putting a spin on oil filter? would you recommend it? Or is it better just to keep the stock filter? Thank you! And thank you for all your videos.
Hey so there are bypass filters but not one I am aware of to put a spin on filter only. That said there isn't truly a reason to replace it
@@six0bros Ok cool, Thank you.
Anytime
Late to the party here, but if you do an external oil cooler from BPD, a spin on filter is an option.
I did forget about that option. I still don't think it's worth it but for someone that does truly want it that is an option
I'm surprised you didn't try an oil cooler backflush kit.
I wanted to and plan to do a video talking about it and showing it, but at the end of the day I was running out of time to do it and just needed it done. However there will be a backflush video in the future
@@six0bros I bought a fixur6 backflush about 3 months ago. Haven't installed yet. I just ordered a case of delo elc last week so a major flushing will be in the near future. I still run Ford gold. 30k miles ago I did my oil cooler but choose to stick with the gold at that time. I have not had a problem with it at all and deltas have never been around 15. Most are running the red so I'm joining the crowd.
Keep up the vids man. When you haul the camper you should make a vid. Post some temp numbers and such.
@@fordguy3773 I was going to but the truck went down. Thankfully someone is lending me their duramax so here comes a comparison video
This is far from being the easy way 😂.
I’m at 5 hours best time. Egr cooler, oil cooler replace, oil temp sensor and flush the coolant system. I’m always looking on RUclips on how other people are doing it because time pays my bills
You got me a little bit of click bait, but there really isnt much difference in how to do the job. A few tips here and there
What coolant u running and man ur going to have another clogged oil cooler u need a vc9 flush Anthony has a video how he does it and he did a coolant flush on my truck and it's been over a year and I have only seen 8 to 10 degrees delta max when towing I was towing 10k and when driving only seen 4 to 6 depending my speed lol
Hey man! I wanted to do a flush and just didnt have time. I agree there is a good chance this one will clog. Seems the oil cooler is the best coolant filter lmao. Completely agree with what Anthony says about flushing too!
Hey Bro! I have dual alternators and am having trouble reaching the belt and locking the tensioner. Any tips?
Mainly with the top alternator, btw.
I don't use the tensioner. I get in the best position I can sometimes standing on the bracket for the passenger battery with one foot and the cross member for the intercooler with the other or just kneeling up there. Take one hand pull the belt up and use the other to push the belt on. This is easier with 2 people because then one can pull in the belt and the other can push it on.
Thanks bro!
Anytime hope it helps
Would this be the same for a 06 dually f350 and will your deltas stay low tho? What’s a normal oil cooler reading?
Did you have to remove the turbo
I can't remember if you can sneak it out or not. It was easier to get my turbo out and intake manifold out of the way though. You may be able to sneak it out without removing the turbo but the intake manifold has to come out
Late 04 intake manifolds don't have the wrap around style which means you can sneak it out without removing the turbo
I did this back in November or December. Nothing was wrong I did some preventive work. Upgraded stc fitting, high flow cooler and egr delete. But I had to take the oil cooler off again a month later because the cover started leaking. Piece of trash got between the cover oring and the block and crested a leak point. Wish I would have known I didn't have to remove the turbo the second time. Needless to say I cleaned the crap out of the block area the second time.
My buddy who is a Ford diesel tech told me to stay away from the Ford cooler. Told me to get a sinister. But I got a egr delete kit and cooler from egrdeletekit.com and it's been problem free.
I personally do not like any of the after market coolers I have heard a lot of bad or that they are less efficient at cooling than the OEM design.
I can respect that decision and reason. I run 6-9degrees difference on my deltas. Some times 10 but it never stays that far apart but for a few seconds. Usually after I floor it on the interstate to pass someone.
OhMANN i dodnt wana !! But ya soon! Thamx Bro for vid !! Im still flushing sand!!
A lot of the time its rust that is the issue. Hope the video helps man
look up 6.0 backflush sand ..on YT i just put it up my 155000 excursion... and ill post 6.0 backflush tool
@@six0bros not me ..sand!
First time owner of a 6.0. I have a question, my oil cooler failed and put oil in my coolant system. Do I change the oil cooler then flush cooling system? Or do I flush system then change oil cooler? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
You will want to flush the cooling system then change the oil cooler. Now once you replace your cooler, I would start with water in your cooling system for a bit of a drive. Make sure there is no oil residue in your system before you filling drain and refill with coolant.
Flush the system before I change the cooler. With the cooler bad won't that constantly be putting oil in the cooling system while it's running too flush the system? Like I said first time owning a diesel engine...... thanks for the reply and help
Typically the leak is not bad enough to put a significant amount of oil over in one or 2 flushes. This way you can get rid of most of it and only worry about getting a little residual out instead of cleaning the whole system. To do a good flush I would remove the thermostat and put the housing back in so the radiator gets a good flush too
@@six0bros thanks. Then after one or 2 flushing then change the cooler right.? Then I need to flush again until it's cleaned out right?
I would gauge how many to do prior based on how much oil is coming out. I would do 3 prior to it, and if it was clearing up then I would replace it and do a few more flushes after to make sure it was clean
Started mine yesterday hahaha. All stock truck.
How is it going so far?
@@six0bros well. Ran outta day light yesterday. I have the intake mani back on and i forgot that fuel line that bolts to the front of it. I ended up just giving up on it i was pretty tired cuz im also sick hahaha. Might need to take the intake mani back off to fit that fuel line back on. Other than that it went pretty smooth.
Definitely wish i would watched ur video first cuz i took off way more even tho iv been down this far into the motor before. Not for the oil cooler tho. But i know for next time tho! So thanks a bunch for that!
@@chrissannes1348 glad to hear it helps man
Isn’t that a backflush valve on there? Or no.
It will work as one but it is a coolant reroute kit but would work for a backflush. I have plans to do a backflush video in the future I just disnt have time to do one.
Bought mine with a leak at the oil cooler I bet it's that blue gasket, gonna be fun 🙄
What engine bay light is that?
It is a Milwaukee one. I love it! Sorry for the delayed response was on a 600 mile road trip!
Jared didn't you replace the oil cooler when you did your rebuild?
Yes I did and I have rust in my cooling system that clogged it this time. Looking into the issue to resolve it so I dont kill another cooler
I have thought about it. Maybe one day lol. It's a nice kit. My only concern is a have heard people have issues in cold climates in the winter with the truck having a hard time warming up.
@treo1225140 if I lived down south I probably would have it, but winters up in PA can get a little brutal lol. Nice piece though
6.0 Bros What about just installing the reroute kit that uses stock cooler? why wouldn't that be the best option?
@@mikehunt7483 I think that is a great option. Or the ipr kit I think let's you use a 6.7 powerstroke oil cooler.
What were your temp Delta's before and after?
I haven't checked fully after I did a rough test but dont long enough of a drive. Before the change it was 31 degree spread
Bulletproof diesel makes a better setup by far.
Which one of their kits? I still like the oem setup honestly
Ok not exactly related to the video but seeing as your the go to 6.0 guy I figured I’d ask ... So had a very strange incident today, typically my truck will hit 110-111 and I get the shut down, today not so much... had an a$$hole in traffic not letting me over I speed up he speeds up I slow down he slows down, finally I slowed to the point I was doing like 45mph in a 65mph zone and said screw this... I floored it expecting the bog a black cloud of smoke, then spool and go (I do have a non-vgt after all) which all happened, idiot hits it at the same time and paces me all the way up to what I figured was going to be the limiter but instead my speedo started bouncing like it was doing a test sweep, went back on the other side got stuck at like 35 I finally passed the stroke slowed down a bit it flew back over to the other side after doing like another few test sweeps got locked at 90 while I was slowing down for a few, and then finally returned to reporting actual speed... any ideas? Bad speedo sender or something? Whatever it was my limiter didn’t work because of it I’m sure I probably wasn’t way higher than the limiter but I was definitely over it (2004 F250 SD 6.0 PS auto btw because it wasn’t mentioned)
Well first thank you for the kind words. Second I have heard of trucks after hitting 100 starting the speedo over but not exactly what you described. Mine after 100 just stays at zero. Until I am under 100 again. Also you may not have a mph limit anymore since you're tuned. I know mine is removed. If it only had issues once i would wait to see if it happens again. I have not heard of this issue before.
The SCT on the dash is set with a 111mph limit
👍
stick to oem. but yet you still have to do this often lmao
Yeah oem in this case is the best bet. Cheating out will only cause a redo
These diesels are a big money pit of wasted time and money. Constant BS with oil coolers, turbos, etc. I wish I would of bought a gas one. I'd rather pay more for gas then spend weeks fixing a POS deisel.
What happened to the truck?
@@six0bros smelled coolant today. pulled over into parking lot, opened hood and saw chocolate pudding erupting out of the degas bottle like a pudding factory. What's the point of saving 4 miles a gallon when you got to dump 3 grand into it every 3 years and add all kind of delete kits'n'shit. isn't it better to buy a truck that is designed well from the factory.
I mean that does suck man, but the issue i think is in mechanics not letting people know what causes such a failure. So people can prevent it. I mean fortunately it is a crappy weekend job for a first timer but it shouldn't be more than 500 in parts. But a shop probably will have about 1300 with labor
I've gone through 3 coolers, I've flushed the hell out of it to. Only getting 5-10k out of a cooler. Anyone else going through coolers like this? Thinking about the bulletproof kit...
How are you flushing it? Have you tried a chemical flush prior to changing the oil cooler? Typically I do not think coolant filters are a must but it could be helpful for you since you seem to be having some issues.
@@six0bros I've gone to the Max!! Flushing it with both of the restore products, step by step by the book. Even made a power flush tool that uses pressurized air and water. Flushed it every which way, installed fumoto valves in the block drains so I could do it over and over again. Not even joking spent 2 full days just flushing it. Using cat coolant, distilled water and a coolant filter. The first time I changed the cooler I added the filter but did not flush it, it clogged, but I will say the truck sat for about 2 years. Next time I changed it (3rd cooler) is when I flushed the hell out of it as described above, also put in a mishimoto radiator at this point. It clogged again after about 2 years, I would have to check my log to see how many miles but less than average. It's not super clogged yet but I am still getting 20-25 degree deltas while towing 14k. The odd thing is that once I take the clogged cooler out and run water through it it is barely noticeably slower than the new one that I'm putting in. I was wondering about my water pump but the engine temp seem normal. I'm kicking around the idea of the bulletproof kit. I've already got it apart right now doing a bigger turbo and injectors so it would be a good time... Thoughts?
Try pouring acid based restore directly into the cooler for 5 mins. Then instead of backflushing towards the water pump, duct tape a 3/4 hose to a shop vac and suck it out. I've had good luck with this method. Brings my deltas back down every time. Done this 4 times now pretty well once a year. I do it when deltas get above 10 unloaded. They go back down to 2 or 3. I have a write up on FTE from my first time doing this. Good luck!
@@nickdeiters4690 having heard of this method before. That is a pretty cool thing that it has helped you. I wonder why you guys are having an ongoing issue though
@@six0bros I used to watch powersmokehelp and used ford gold until last year when i grew a brain, researched and switched to cat elc. I really think that was my problem. The gold was meant for a Taurus or an explorer, not the monstrous physics of an international diesel engine imho. So far my temps have not climbed in 8-9 months. Blending with distilled is obviously important too