Thank you so much!!! I just purchased 5 components for under $20 and the first one (thermal fuse) was the issue! The call for a repair would have cost me $80 alone, so I REALLY appreciate the help!!!!
This video saved me some bucks. Mine turned out to be heavy lint and a blown thermal fuse. 15 bucks and some vacuuming saved the day. Thank you for uploading much appreciated!
Thank you so much for this video. While doing a load of laundry, the dryer was not getting hot. After watching your video and cleaning the vent and also taking off some excess length, the heat kicked right on. So thankful that I didn't have to buy any parts and will keep in mind to keep the vent cleaned thoroughly more often. A life saver.😊
Thanks for an awesomely informative video. All I had to do was replace the thermal fuse (pn# 3392519) on our Whirlpool Estate dryer and it was back to heating again. It didn't stop working from lint build up like some say. I believe that it failed from a mix of constant use and old age (dryer is 15 years old now). Thanks again for a great vid! 🤜💥🤛
Used a shop vac to suck out the debris in my vertical exhaust vent as well as replacing a $13 thermal fuse and thanks to this video saved me a trip to the laundromat.
thanks for this video I just ordered a dryer thermal fuse from you ...and will put the new one in once it arrives if that flame comes back on I'll be grateful
Thanks for the video - Have Speed Queen TR5 Gas Dryer, blew everything out with work shop blower and the dryer heats up fine now. Bottom area was full of lint but the exhaust line was clean.
GE dryer was not drying. Replaced ignitor, coil, and the rusting burner assembly. Still no drying. ignitor and flame are visible in the mirror. Flame cycles every 60 seconds for 60 seconds. Checked the exhaust. The flow is strong. The exhaust hose gets warm. Removed the exhaust hose to check exhaust air temp. Placed hand in the flow. Somewhere I have read that exhaust temp should be 200 deg F. This does not feel like 200 deg F. Scratching head. Any ideas? Thanks.
I know its been 2 months, but did you fix the problem. I once experienced something similar. I bought my home the ex owners gave us the appliances. The dryer alsways took forever to dry. I thought Id get a new one since the one I had was old. I put a new one in, same thing. I took it back and told them something must be wrong with it. I took home another. Same crap! Im like what the....! So I called and they sent a repairman. He said the gas line in my house was older , and might be corroded inside the pipes, but he wasnt about to mess with it. So after he left Im looking at the line and noticed another shut off valve higher along the gas line, even thought there was one closer to the dryer. Being it most likely wasnt turned in years, I debated whether I should try to turn the valve, worried that the movement might cause a seal problem, but I turned it! It turned about 1-1/2 turns to open! The furnace fired up nice and hot with a strong flame and worked fine. My old original probably was good as well, but the owner most likely thought they were saving gas by turning it down, or something?? It makes no sense since you had to run it longer to dry.! What a pain in the ass installing and returning dryers a couple times was!.lol
I've tested the thermal fuse and the flame sensor and both hAve continuity. The ignitor glows, so it's not the ignitor, but no flame is present at all. I also tried replacing the solenoid coils and that didn't work either. The dryer runs fine, but does not heat up. Based on the facts above, it doesn't sound like it would be the thermostats either ( as the ignitor does turn on just no gas burns). Any other ideas???
Can it be filled up with lent in the back of the dryer? Could be why it's not getting hot enough I have flames I could see through the little vent in front. On sixty seven counter ford to have a Service.
My dryer starts but the igniter does not light. I replaced the igniter but no luck. Imeasured the resistance of the igniter and it was 60 ohms so its good. I measured only 56 volts across the 2 pieces of metal that hold the igniter in place. I have in the past measured 120 volts. Any tips?
Hey,, you guys from repair clinic. I see a few people asking what should be a simple question for you guys. If you put out a video like this, you should check it once in a while to help these folks out. Thank you!
We have a repair help and library on our website to help DIYers with their repair projects for appliances, HVAC, and outdoor power equipment: RepairClinic.com. We also have a blog with additional resources: diy.repairclinic.com/
My problem is the dryer stops heating once it hits the "damp dry" (~25 minutes remaining). I don't have the damp dry sensor or a separate cycle. I start it off at 60 minutes, and gas cycles on/off maintaining good temp until it hits 25 minutes. Then flame shuts off, dryer keeps spinning and is ultimately cold by the time the 25 minutes finish. I've replace solenoids and igniter. Checked continuity on all sensors in the back and thermostat and everything checks out ok. Is there separate wiring I need to look at for the damp cycle?
My flame will come on then goes right off it’s not drying clothes it gets warm in tumbler but not drying I’m going crazy trying to figure out what is wrong
@ it was the motor pulley that end piece on the motor that the belt goes on it was going bad and tearing all my belts I replaced that and it’s working fine now. Very weird it affected the heating though. Thank you that’s actually what I thought it was at first or air was leaking somewhere and not getting hot enough
@ cool, so the board must be able to tell that there was some kind of torque change or airflow change that it went, oh boy let’s shut that gas off right away.
@@garlowloke ya that’s wild never would’ve thought, but eventually after going through belts I knew it had to be something there and I looked and it was pretty broke in half. Changed it out and working perfectly now
Nothing out of my Maytag dryer. Gas full to the valve. No glow plug lighting though intact. Push the main control - seems soft no clicking. No action. I tore it all down. Does my Maytag have a thermal fuse? The back doesn't come off like the one in the vid.
Hello Thank you for the great video! I have cleared the vent replaced thermal fuse and gas valve coils. I tested for continuity the igniter flame sensor thermal cut off fuse high limit thermostat and timer and they are all good but it still turns off after 20 seconds. Please help.
I replaced the fuse, i checked continuity of the gas coils. But before taking apart the top and front panel, i peeped in the window and there is no glow or flame. Will there still be a glow if it happens to be the igniter or is the igniter only responsible for the flame? Or is the flame and glow the same thing? Either way my fuse and coils are working but its not getting hot!
I not only had to clean the 4 inch ducting I also had to open the blower housing at the back of my Maytag dryer ( 4 nuts at the back holding the housing and 2 Phillips on top by the screen) . You have to tilt the whole dryer forward to pull the housing off. All the holes were plugged with stuck lint.
my gas roper dryer is losing heat after 10-15 minutes. the spinning/ tumbling continues. i've checked the continuity of the thermal fuse, gas valve coils, igniter, flame sensor, and the thermostats and all appear fine. is there anything else i need to check? can any of these components be failing despite passing the multimeter test? any help would be much appreciated!
Could the problem be beyond the electrical and be a mechanical problem of the gas valve? The igniter will lights up (heats up) but no gas. The solenoids buzzes while the igniter is energized but we do not get any flame. Per your video we checked out the (1) Thermal Fuse, (2) both solenoids, (3) the igniter (4) flame sensor (5) thermostats with a digital meter and they all checked out fine.
If any thermostat or fuse is bad would the ignitor still glow?. I would think it would NOT because those things are safeties so i am thinking the ignitor would not glow. Is that correct?
I can't find the thermal fuse on our GE gas dryer Drsr483gg4ww. I went to your website and looked at the repair parts for the dryer and I cant even find a replacement thermal fuse for the Drsr483gg4ww, However the thermal fuse is mentioned under cause #4 Flame Sensor ......"On a gas dryer, the flame sensor detects the heat emitted by the flame. If the flame sensor isn’t working, the dryer won’t heat. Before checking the flame sensor, first make sure that the igniter and ***thermal fuse ****are not at fault. To determine if the flame sensor is defective, use a multimeter to test the sensor for continuity at room temperature. If the flame sensor does not have continuity at room temperature, replace it." Where is the thermal fuse located on the Drsr483gg4ww.
I have had my Whirlpool washer and dryer for over 30 years! Whoo hoo. However the dryer is not heating so I'm going to look into fixing it myself. Getting a multimeter to check the parts mentioned in this video. Anticipating a fix. 😁 But I agree with you that things are not built to last these days. But parts do wear out so if it's a part I can still get, I'll be happy to fix this. I fixed my washer of this pair when the agitator wouldn't agitate anymore. Simply had to replace these little plastic pieces called "dogs". 😁
Hi there I just changed the coils and fuse...it takes the DAM ignitor and gas to turn on 2 FULL MINUTES TO SEE ignitor light up then GAS turns on meanwhile for 2 whole minutes the dryer is spinning...PLEASE help thanks...
my dryer takes about 2-5 cycled to dry the clothes. The clothes get warm but not hot like they should be. I just replaced the rear drum bearing before this started. what can I check? HELP!
Does anyone know what happened , after I put new Thermal Fuse and the two gas valve solonoid coils , the Maytag gas dryer start and heat ok but about 10 minutes later it shut off again and no heat?
Wonder what these symptoms mean: 1) hardly any heat; 2) gas smell, 3) gas smell on the outside coming out of vent. What would be causing the gas smell? It only happens when I turn the dryer on.
My igniter glows red, then shuts off without starting a flame… however, when unplugged, there’s not continuity, but it’s still glowing red. How can that be?
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Drsr483gg4ww gas dryer tumbles but doesn’t get hot. The igniter ignites , but the gas valve is not opening, when the igniter is glowing the solenoids are buzzing, the solenoids stop buzzing when the igniter goes off. This cycle keeps repeating, Successful Continuity tests were performed on the (1) Thermal Fuse, (2) both solenoids, (3) the ignitor (4) flame sensor (5) thermostats with a digital meter and they all checked out fine. Background: This dryer operated fine at our son’s home and then sat in storage a few months and now we are having this problem. The only think we have done is changed the direction of the door swing and the door now opens to the right.
I checked all these and none fixed the issue of my dryer not heating up. Turns out I had a bad heater relay. Easy fix, but I didn't see that mentioned in any repair video online.
Mike Grayford What was going on? 2/10 of the times I turned on my dryer, the igniter/gas/flame turned on for about 2 minutes then shut off. Sometimes I just have the drum spinning.
The heater relay is definitely not your problem. If it was, no electricity would be going through the heating system and you wouldn't even see the igniter glow. You might have a problem with air flow. Make sure your dryer vent is clear, your lint trap is clean, and consider opening the panel to clean out the inside (make sure the dyer is unplugged). That's the best case, with the easiest (and cheapest) fix. Other than that, seems like you might have failing coils (AKA solenoids).
Thank you so much!!! I just purchased 5 components for under $20 and the first one (thermal fuse) was the issue! The call for a repair would have cost me $80 alone, so I REALLY appreciate the help!!!!
This video saved me some bucks. Mine turned out to be heavy lint and a blown thermal fuse. 15 bucks and some vacuuming saved the day. Thank you for uploading much appreciated!
Thank you so much for this video. While doing a load of laundry, the dryer was not getting hot. After watching your video and cleaning the vent and also taking off some excess length, the heat kicked right on. So thankful that I didn't have to buy any parts and will keep in mind to keep the vent cleaned thoroughly more often. A life saver.😊
Great video! Tested all the sensors, they checked fine, replaced the Gas Valve Coils for $10 and dryer is working perfectly.
Can’t say thanks enough. Used to be I would have just put my dryer out as scrap. Fixed it for less than 30 bucks. Awesome!
Thanks for an awesomely informative video. All I had to do was replace the thermal fuse (pn# 3392519) on our Whirlpool Estate dryer and it was back to heating again. It didn't stop working from lint build up like some say. I believe that it failed from a mix of constant use and old age (dryer is 15 years old now). Thanks again for a great vid! 🤜💥🤛
Very helpful! The first problem described was the one my dryer had. Fixed myself for a $10 part.
Sweet!
Used a shop vac to suck out the debris in my vertical exhaust vent as well as replacing a $13 thermal fuse and thanks to this video saved me a trip to the laundromat.
Thank you so much. I got my dryer back up and running. It was the high limit switch.
Very helpful! The first problem described, the thermal fuse, was the one my dryer had. Fixed myself for a $15 part. (and I also bought a spare)
This was super helpful in repairing my Maytag XL Dryer. Thank you. I would recommend this video
thanks for this video I just ordered a dryer thermal fuse from you ...and will put the new one in once it arrives if that flame comes back on I'll be grateful
This video, and these guys have really helped me get my Whirlpool dryer fixed for a so much less than if I'd called for service! Thanks You guys!!
This helped me pinpoint the solenoid coils as the problem. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the video - Have Speed Queen TR5 Gas Dryer, blew everything out with work shop blower and the dryer heats up fine now. Bottom area was full of lint but the exhaust line was clean.
GE dryer was not drying. Replaced ignitor, coil, and the rusting burner assembly. Still no drying. ignitor and flame are visible in the mirror. Flame cycles every 60 seconds for 60 seconds. Checked the exhaust. The flow is strong. The exhaust hose gets warm. Removed the exhaust hose to check exhaust air temp. Placed hand in the flow. Somewhere I have read that exhaust temp should be 200 deg F. This does not feel like 200 deg F. Scratching head. Any ideas? Thanks.
I know its been 2 months, but did you fix the problem. I once experienced something similar. I bought my home the ex owners gave us the appliances. The dryer alsways took forever to dry. I thought Id get a new one since the one I had was old. I put a new one in, same thing. I took it back and told them something must be wrong with it. I took home another. Same crap! Im like what the....! So I called and they sent a repairman. He said the gas line in my house was older , and might be corroded inside the pipes, but he wasnt about to mess with it. So after he left Im looking at the line and noticed another shut off valve higher along the gas line, even thought there was one closer to the dryer. Being it most likely wasnt turned in years, I debated whether I should try to turn the valve, worried that the movement might cause a seal problem, but I turned it! It turned about 1-1/2 turns to open! The furnace fired up nice and hot with a strong flame and worked fine. My old original probably was good as well, but the owner most likely thought they were saving gas by turning it down, or something?? It makes no sense since you had to run it longer to dry.! What a pain in the ass installing and returning dryers a couple times was!.lol
I've tested the thermal fuse and the flame sensor and both hAve continuity. The ignitor glows, so it's not the ignitor, but no flame is present at all. I also tried replacing the solenoid coils and that didn't work either. The dryer runs fine, but does not heat up. Based on the facts above, it doesn't sound like it would be the thermostats either ( as the ignitor does turn on just no gas burns). Any other ideas???
Can it be filled up with lent in the back of the dryer? Could be why it's not getting hot enough I have flames I could see through the little vent in front. On sixty seven counter ford to have a Service.
My dryer starts but the igniter does not light. I replaced the igniter but no luck. Imeasured the resistance of the igniter and it was 60 ohms so its good. I measured only 56 volts across the 2 pieces of metal that hold the igniter in place. I have in the past measured 120 volts. Any tips?
The problem was the flame sensor. It was OPEN no voltage could go to the igniter. I jump the flame sensor and now I have 120 volts at the igniter.
Hey,, you guys from repair clinic. I see a few people asking what should be a simple question for you guys. If you put out a video like this, you should check it once in a while to help these folks out. Thank you!
We have a repair help and library on our website to help DIYers with their repair projects for appliances, HVAC, and outdoor power equipment: RepairClinic.com. We also have a blog with additional resources: diy.repairclinic.com/
I fixed my dryer using the info in this video. The problem was a blown fuse, replaced it and now its working again.
do you have to remove the parts in question to get a multimeter reading?
I discovered my own answer. No you don't have to remove them.
My problem is the dryer stops heating once it hits the "damp dry" (~25 minutes remaining). I don't have the damp dry sensor or a separate cycle. I start it off at 60 minutes, and gas cycles on/off maintaining good temp until it hits 25 minutes. Then flame shuts off, dryer keeps spinning and is ultimately cold by the time the 25 minutes finish. I've replace solenoids and igniter. Checked continuity on all sensors in the back and thermostat and everything checks out ok. Is there separate wiring I need to look at for the damp cycle?
Time to get a new one.
My flame will come on then goes right off it’s not drying clothes it gets warm in tumbler but not drying I’m going crazy trying to figure out what is wrong
Clean or replace your flame sensor
@ it was the motor pulley that end piece on the motor that the belt goes on it was going bad and tearing all my belts I replaced that and it’s working fine now. Very weird it affected the heating though. Thank you that’s actually what I thought it was at first or air was leaking somewhere and not getting hot enough
@ cool, so the board must be able to tell that there was some kind of torque change or airflow change that it went, oh boy let’s shut that gas off right away.
@@garlowloke ya that’s wild never would’ve thought, but eventually after going through belts I knew it had to be something there and I looked and it was pretty broke in half. Changed it out and working perfectly now
Nothing out of my Maytag dryer. Gas full to the valve. No glow plug lighting though intact. Push the main control - seems soft no clicking. No action. I tore it all down. Does my Maytag have a thermal fuse? The back doesn't come off like the one in the vid.
how do I get to these parts on the dryer?
Perfect fix.
Ignitor did not have continuity, replaced it, and voila!!!
Thanks guys.
Does this help if it's not getting hot enough?
Problem solved, thanks to your video.
Hello Thank you for the great video!
I have cleared the vent replaced thermal fuse and gas valve coils. I tested for continuity the igniter flame sensor thermal cut off fuse high limit thermostat and timer and they are all good but it still turns off after 20 seconds. Please help.
Its the gas valve, it is near the coils.
I replaced the fuse, i checked continuity of the gas coils. But before taking apart the top and front panel, i peeped in the window and there is no glow or flame. Will there still be a glow if it happens to be the igniter or is the igniter only responsible for the flame? Or is the flame and glow the same thing? Either way my fuse and coils are working but its not getting hot!
my dryer wont heat. the vent is clear. if I pull the dryer out from the wall it works sometimes. is that a crimp in the gas flow?
I not only had to clean the 4 inch ducting I also had to open the blower housing at the back of my Maytag dryer ( 4 nuts at the back holding the housing and 2 Phillips on top by the screen) . You have to tilt the whole dryer forward to pull the housing off. All the holes were plugged with stuck lint.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I saved $160 just by following this video. I can’t thank you enough for this video. God bless you
my gas roper dryer is losing heat after 10-15 minutes. the spinning/ tumbling continues. i've checked the continuity of the thermal fuse, gas valve coils, igniter, flame sensor, and the thermostats and all appear fine. is there anything else i need to check? can any of these components be failing despite passing the multimeter test? any help would be much appreciated!
My burner comes on and it does have the flame but still somehow doesn’t heat up. Any idea?
is it possible the gas line is crimped or obstructed?
Could the problem be beyond the electrical and be a mechanical problem of the gas valve? The igniter will lights up (heats up) but no gas. The solenoids buzzes while the igniter is energized but we do not get any flame. Per your video we checked out the (1) Thermal Fuse, (2) both solenoids, (3) the igniter (4) flame sensor (5) thermostats with a digital meter and they all checked out fine.
Did you find the problem?
If any thermostat or fuse is bad would the ignitor still glow?. I would think it would NOT because those things are safeties so i am thinking the ignitor would not glow. Is that correct?
I can't find the thermal fuse on our GE gas dryer Drsr483gg4ww. I went to your website and looked at the repair parts for the dryer and I cant even find a replacement thermal fuse for the Drsr483gg4ww,
However the thermal fuse is mentioned under cause #4 Flame Sensor ......"On a gas dryer, the flame sensor detects the heat emitted by the flame. If the flame sensor isn’t working, the dryer won’t heat. Before checking the flame sensor, first make sure that the igniter and ***thermal fuse ****are not at fault. To determine if the flame sensor is defective, use a multimeter to test the sensor for continuity at room temperature. If the flame sensor does not have continuity at room temperature, replace it."
Where is the thermal fuse located on the Drsr483gg4ww.
my dryer tumblesbut wont heat please help
dumped my maytag washer that was not even two years old because it quit, now the whirlpool dryer geez, don't they make anything to last anymore.
I have had my Whirlpool washer and dryer for over 30 years! Whoo hoo. However the dryer is not heating so I'm going to look into fixing it myself. Getting a multimeter to check the parts mentioned in this video. Anticipating a fix. 😁 But I agree with you that things are not built to last these days. But parts do wear out so if it's a part I can still get, I'll be happy to fix this. I fixed my washer of this pair when the agitator wouldn't agitate anymore. Simply had to replace these little plastic pieces called "dogs". 😁
Hi there I just changed the coils and fuse...it takes the DAM ignitor and gas to turn on 2 FULL MINUTES TO SEE ignitor light up then GAS turns on meanwhile for 2 whole minutes the dryer is spinning...PLEASE help thanks...
my dryer takes about 2-5 cycled to dry the clothes. The clothes get warm but not hot like they should be. I just replaced the rear drum bearing before this started. what can I check? HELP!
Thermostats
Does anyone know what happened , after I put new Thermal Fuse and the two gas valve solonoid coils , the Maytag gas dryer start and heat ok but about 10 minutes later it shut off again and no heat?
Sounds like something causing fuse to blow such as dryer lint in the system.
Try completely cleaning out the lint from the entire vent pipe. (if you haven't already).
what if the ignitor is good, but only comes on once in a while? when it does the solenoids both click and the flame starts fine.
Wonder what these symptoms mean: 1) hardly any heat; 2) gas smell, 3) gas smell on the outside coming out of vent.
What would be causing the gas smell? It only happens when I turn the dryer on.
Thank you...bad thermostat
Thank you
You're welcome!
If you would like to give us a review, here is our link: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
Have a great day!
My igniter glows red, then shuts off without starting a flame… however, when unplugged, there’s not continuity, but it’s still glowing red. How can that be?
Sometimes the dryer heats. Sometimes not. Any clue?
Lets not forget that your igniter might turn red but can be weak causing it not to draw enough amps to turn on the gas
i was check all fuse and it work，nothing in back。but my dryer still take longtime
Saved me a few hundred $$$😊
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
some of these problems are after the burner heats up (e.g. thermostat)
I’ve replaced all fuses and gas solenoids… still no heat!…
Drsr483gg4ww gas dryer tumbles but doesn’t get hot. The igniter ignites , but the gas valve is not opening, when the igniter is glowing the solenoids are buzzing, the solenoids stop buzzing when the igniter goes off. This cycle keeps repeating,
Successful Continuity tests were performed on the (1) Thermal Fuse, (2) both solenoids, (3) the ignitor (4) flame sensor (5) thermostats with a digital meter and they all checked out fine.
Background: This dryer operated fine at our son’s home and then sat in storage a few months and now we are having this problem. The only think we have done is changed the direction of the door swing and the door now opens to the right.
if i tap solenoid dryer will fire off
Well done
Heck yeah you can't beat this
Thankyou 🌹👍
Hope this will help me fix my dryer, can't afford a new one, it won't heat at all.
What was awesome. Thank you for this video I saved 500 dollars 😎😎😎
My dryer is not heating.
does not heat properly .on the timer it will not heat on a full setting. But when i set the timer with ten minuter left it heats ... Help help
its work
I checked all these and none fixed the issue of my dryer not heating up. Turns out I had a bad heater relay. Easy fix, but I didn't see that mentioned in any repair video online.
Mike Grayford What was going on? 2/10 of the times I turned on my dryer, the igniter/gas/flame turned on for about 2 minutes then shut off. Sometimes I just have the drum spinning.
The heater relay is definitely not your problem. If it was, no electricity would be going through the heating system and you wouldn't even see the igniter glow. You might have a problem with air flow. Make sure your dryer vent is clear, your lint trap is clean, and consider opening the panel to clean out the inside (make sure the dyer is unplugged). That's the best case, with the easiest (and cheapest) fix. Other than that, seems like you might have failing coils (AKA solenoids).
2:28 dryer is overloaded
Joshua Ginnish
What is it when your electric dryer works as it should and shuts off at the end of the cycle, but the heat is staying on?
Did not help me, I had to buy another dryer. I ck all pieces an all were good. But did not explain this situation. None of the videos helped me.
This video is worthless when you don't explain what numbers are supposed to show up on the multimeter when testing the parts.
w10622159 my part # parts I order was for older model