460Ah Battery Vatrer... www.vatrerpower.com/products/vatrer-12v-460ah-low-temp-cutoff-lifepo4-rv-battery-built-in-250a-bms-max-3200w-power-output-bluetooth-rv-version/?sca_ref=5388250.5te6HEtUQb 460Ah Amazon... amzn.to/4dkQ1iz 230Ah Amazon... amzn.to/42jeRu7 (affiliate links) Please let me know what you think of this huge 12V battery!
Would love to see a similar review of Vatrer's new 12V 300AH Bluetooth with Self-Heating battery. Have they improved their build quality to all the newer models? I like the dimensions of the Epoch 12V 300Ah Heated & Bluetooth battery but don't think it's worth the price difference for 4 batteries ($945 vs $650 each with shipping and discounts). What do you think?
I love the look of it but I really don't think it's working correctly. It's been 24hrs since I filmed most of this. The lid has been off all night and it's still showing 13C. The humidity has increased to 64% which still seems very off for January. I need to find a 3rd hygrometer to compare with as my Amazon-special probably isn't accurate either.
Hey Will, Please do a review on this one. It has a great form factor for an RV. Some reviewers and amazon reviews said it uses Grade B cells that scared me off. Now I can't see this exact one on Amazon anymore. I know you gave a good review on a smaller Vatrer. I would be tempted to buy this one if I could be confident it uses grade A cells.
@@WillProwse I'd love to see your review of this particular battery as well lol. It seems to leave a bit of lingering uncertainty, particularly around the cell condition.
I have 2 of these and they are awesome! The modular design was a key selling point. When I stupidly stripped one of the terminals, Vatrer sent me a free replacement and a few days later it was quickly fixed. I like it much better than the sealed plastic batteries.
Thanks for the video mate, your efforts have changed my thinking and now it's time for some new chemistry! Your reviews are very useful and full of the right info..
Would be nice to see a full load test. (250A) I think that is as important as a capacity test to see how the cell voltages stand up to higher amp draw. I watched another review of the same battery. In that battery all cells had a “B” stamped on the QR code indicating that Vatrer are using rejected automotive cells.
I have 2 of Vatrer's 200 amp hour batteriea I use in parallel in my RV. These have been in use for just about a year now. Currently being stored in my garage at full capacity. I am amazed how little power they have lost during this winter storage cycle! Very happy with this product!
@3:00 I think they're referring to the space on the terminal since aluminum lugs are larger. Although I don't think aluminum is used very often anyway.
I have a very similar set up DIY with a 200a JBD I found having the bus bars connected the same way as shown caused cells 2 and 3 to not “current share” and always had lower capacity. By removing the 4 way cross bar and connecting them in diagonal manor corrected the issue. At 11:17 you can even see cells 2 and 3 are the outliers. I’d wager it’d get worse and worse if you cycled it 5-10 times. With the small balance current of the JBD it’s going to be working hard. I do say this is as close to what I want in an off the shelf battery, love the serviceability and allowing you to change parameters of the BMS.
14:05 No, you have 5x the reliability. If that 460Ah pack has a BMS die you have a brick. If one dies in the 100Ah string you still have 400Ah on tap. For any high reliability application like remote solar or marine all your eggs in one BMS basket is a substantial risk.
While its a matter of high reliability to have more then 1 massive battery its also matter of economics. Most people in RV and offgrid simply cannot afford losing over a thousand bucks on a battery. We are kinda reaching a point where buying 1 battery challenges monthly net income after expenses, for a poorer RV-er/offgrid guy.@@LithiumSolar
I thought I'd share my initial test. We needed a bigger bank and for my 2nd go I really wanted BT so I could set the BMS parameters and monitor the status (I'm a Tech and not knowing drove me nuts) and have accessibility for maintenance. I received mine at the beginning of June and swapped out my 200ah Chins in my RV. I did not utilize my shunt as I'm going to rely on the BMS (Chins didn't have BT). Out of the box I put a 230a load on it for 20 minutes with no issue. I finished draining it at 150a until my inverter shutoff at 10.5v. The BMS showed the battery at 0% (I think the BMS uses voltage based reading until it completes a cycle, then coulomb counts). I then lowered draw to 45a until the inverter shutoff at again at 10.5v. At this point I drew 5a until I hit 11v (2.75v cell) at rest. I can't imagine needing to draw this monster below 11v so I consider this 0% capacity and set the BMS battery capacity at 500AH to give the parameters some headroom for testing and turned on balance only when charging so it wouldn't bleed off balancing once charger stopped. I charged at 80a (Fluke meter read 79.7a at cable in) and the BMS started counting AH. In the morning the charger had shutoff, at rest the voltage was 13.83v and the battery was at 100% or 500AH. I was pleasantly surprised and didn't take screenshot of the remainder as this was all well into bonus territory. I restarted the charger and I think it started charging at 40ish amps and over about 30 minutes slowly dropped to 0a at 14.2v (3.55v cell). I would guesstimate an addition 10 to 15ah. After the season I might bump up the capacity in the BMS to 525ah and do another cycle test but for now I couldn't be happier and this Vatrer 460ah was well worth the purchase. My 200ah Chins out of the box also exceeded it's 200ah capacity about 7%. Moving from 6v GC battery bank, over 3 years the Chins battery exceeded my expectations and made me a believer, Lifepo4 is a game changer in an RV. Having said that, 500+ah is amazing and have all the features I realized I really wanted. Hope this helps anyone considering.
I bought their 48 V golf cart battery. It seems to be pretty good and really well-made. The only issue I’ve had is last week after I charged it with a full charge. It only shows 80ah capacity. They did send me a message and told me to run the battery down and then charge it back up but it’s still only came up to 81ah. Hopefully they will have me try something else 🤞🏻.
Yes! the bms app displays the pack and individual cell voltages based on the balance harness connections which have zero current flowing on them for maximum accuracy.
Will the BMS shut the battery down when it reaches its low temp limit? The reason for the question is. We will be leaving Wi traveling to FL in January. We are wondering if the battery will power our coach heater going down the road in possible temp below 0 F until we reach warmer temps. Also if the battery shuts down what will happen if the engine alternator is trying to charge it? Would we be better off not connecting it until we reach warmer weather?
Good afternoon. I just installed my 460AH lithium battery from you all in my rv. I was reading the ideal charging Amps was 92. I am looking to add an AC charger once I’m plugged into shore power to charge the battery when I don’t have solar but unable to find any 92amp rated chargers. I have found lots of 100amp chargers rated for lithium. And a few 75 amp chargers. My question is, would getting a 100amp charger be too much and damage my battery? I’m under the impression that even rated at 100 amps it likely won’t reach 100 in real world amps and even if it does it won’t stay there very long. Or should I not exceed the 92amps and get 75?
OMG, this is a monster lol. I have a 100 Ah Vatrer with a built in heater and bluetooth, I love it, it’s a massive improvement over my original AGM travel trailer battery.
@@john_in_phoenix Ah ok, so it pulls the cell out by the terminals. I'm not sure how strong they are but the neoprene foam stuff they use on these batteries has a suction cup-like effect. It's not glued but it sticks on - I'm sure there's a scientific term for it. I'd be hesitant to pull them out that way personally.
@@LithiumSolar search RUclips for this video by SFK - "SFK V4 build & capacity test video REPT 280" forward to 11.22 minutes and play. you can make with other materials
Hygrometer. It's for measuring humidity in the air. Hydrometer is a different instrument. It measures specific gravity of liquids. Often used in distillation, beer making and wine making.
I recently upgraded to a Temgot 460AH LIFEP04 and love it so far. Such a huge upgrade for me. I never thought I would be able to have so much battery in my microcamper. I wonder how much more they will be able to squeeze into this footprint in 2 years time. Imagine if they ever can get 1000AH in this size!
12.8V though. Using a 12V architecture pretty much stops making sense once the storage capacity gets that high. Not only do you want to run a higher system voltage at that point... 24V or 48V (51.2V nominal), you also want at least two batteries in parallel for redundancy and robustness. And you want to avoid series configurations for the same reason... no redundancy with series, and less robustness. Also, the charge and discharge rates are fairly poor... it is actually fairly typical for these high-capacity 12V batteries to not be able to charge/discharge at 1C due to the amperages involved, and that's a big problem. 150A charging and 250A discharging? 1.9kW charging and 3.2kW discharging. A single 48V 100Ah battery (5.12kWh) can do 5.12kW charging and discharging and it can do it with only 2 AWG cabling at 100A. In anycase... there are a few minor challenges retro-fitting a higher voltage battery architecture, but the results are phenomenal. Its perfectly acceptable to decide to stick with 12V if retro-fitting a higher voltage would cost too much (having to replacing other pre-existing gear such as the inverter), but anyone doing a new build should go straight to 48V without looking back, even for a small system. But particularly for a big system. Getting stuck with huge, expensive 12V batteries can make for an unhappy camper a few years later. -Matt
If you're doing 3kW discharges, I agree that you're using the wrong voltage here. I would not suggest building a 24V or 48V system with these (or any 12V battery). I see this designed for someone who wants extended runtime not maximum power. For example, you can't even run a 300W load off this battery for a full day.
@@LithiumSolar 48V architectures are sold all the way down to 25Ah. Even if you wanted a small system, you could still use 48V. The point is that if you want to scale up, you hit a wall with 12V at 1/4th the capacity that you would with 48V. I think you are misunderstanding the difference between amp-hours and the actual energy content of the battery. 12.8V @ 460Ah = 5.89 kWh of storage 51.2V @ 115Ah = 5.89 kWh of storage A 48V architecture at 460 Ah would be over 23 kWh of storage capacity. That would be a huge system. If you want to compare like-with-like, you compare the same storage capacity. So NOT a 48V archite ture at 460Ah, but a 48V architecture at 115Ah. Same number of cells, same type of cells, same size cells, same energy content, different topology. -Matt
@@junkerzn7312 I am not misunderstanding anything. You have two different discussions going here - one complaining about voltage and the other missing the point of OP's request. If you want a 5888Wh battery at 51.2V, then this is not for you. This is a 12.8V battery. Not everyone shares the same opinions you do, thus we have free choice. If you don't need a 12.8V 460Ah battery, then you should not purchase one. It seems pretty simple.
@@LithiumSolarI'm not saying that people don't have free choice. There are certainly situations, mostly retro-fits, where sticking with 12V makes financial sense. But that would pretty much the only reason to ever sock yourself with 12V. Literally. One can argue whether 24V or 48V is easier from a learning or upgrade perspective. It is impossible to argue that 12V is a good architecture these days. It just isn't. Free choice != correct choice. As an influencer, people depend on you to provide them with the correct choice. Right? You don't want to sock people with an architecture that massively limits their flexibility a year or two down the line, and you should at least understand and explain that rather than just pushing a huge 12V battery out your channel. People who buy big 12V batteries need to do it for very good reasons, almost universally related to retro-fitting something they already have, and not for dumb reasons. That's what your job as an influencer is. To make that distinction. -Matt
@@junkerzn7312 a 12v lithium bank charges off a 12v alternator more efficiently than a 24v bank charges thru a 12-24v dcdc or even worse, a 48v bank thru a 12-48v dcdc. Additionally, 48v appliances are more expensive and not offered by many mfgs. Then, you have to use a 48v converter for all your 12v devices, and that's another point of failure, and another parasitic drain, and the converter has an efficiency loss in itself, just like an inverter. A 12v bank is optimized for 12v charging efficiency. A 48v or 24v bank is optimized for discharging efficiency and solar charging efficiency. For someone that drives a lot in a place with not much sun, with a vehicle where a second 24v alternator setup would cost 2K, a 12v system makes more sense.
With regard to comment noted at the end of the video about using multiple smaller batteries in parallel, there is another advantage to that setup not noted. If you install a disconnect on each of the single smaller batteries you can isolate them if one of them fails. Then you won’t loose the entire battery capacity. Yes, the total cost will be more, but the redundancy is well worth the extra cost, especially in a marine application.
Impressive battery. In my yacht I have a little different need and use. I currently have 13 Valence 12xp-27u batteries all in parallel. The advantage to me for this is these need to start 2 pretty large diesel engines. Each BMS is capable of 150 amp continuous and 300 amps for 30 seconds. I have been able to start an engine with 4 of these batteries, but the wiring has to be perfect or the BMS's shut down in a cascading event. So I have 6 wired perfect and the other 7 connected not so perfect. A little odd because the boat came with wiring for 2 completely separate battery banks for Port and Starboard. But unlike lead, I can most likely still start one engine with 5% capacity remaining and definitely the little 12kw generator engine that can recharge the batteries with the on board charger or the 2kw of solar. Also, this battery is not really suited for storage in the bowels of a boat and would start to rust and corroded in short order. But with all that being said, this would be a great battery for an RV or home storage. Thanks for the video.
Haven't bought or built 12V batteries in a few years now. Don't know and don't care why anyone would even bother anymore. Just use a buck converter in everything I do now if I need a lowly 12V source.
try a dark Grey mat or color mat on new desk top - this will make products / details more visible - Lighting will be easier - small light reflectors are your friend - to hold small things bean bags are fast and easy - I rest my hand on desk when showing phone app reduces movement - easy way to look better - setting up shoot its good idea to take a few photos of set lighting locations - at some latter date you have video that Looks Real Good you can look at Ur photos of light positions were - saves time - easier
Thanks for the tips. The choice of mat was more for circuit board part use (server boards), didn't intend to really put black batteries on it when I purchased it. Also, phone shakiness was partially caffeine consumption LOL.
Hello. I have a question please. I have one Ampertime basic battery and two Li-time mini batteries, all with 100A 12V ratings. I would like to connect them in parallel, but the manufacturer advises against it due to differences in BMS and battery cells between the two types. What do you think?
You can also go to any welding supply store and get cable by the foot. The welding leads are very flexible and 6-8 AWG through 4/0 are frequently stocked, at least in my area.
I tried 2 of the Vatrer smaller 7a 12v batteries with poor results in a 12v scooter, they could not provide the amperage the small razor scooter needed just in case anyone needed this info
@LithiumSolar thanks so much, few videos ago you used welding cable and demonstrated it's flexibility benefits; I value your insight and findings. This new cable method I assume is thiner than welding cable.
@@VideoByPatrick The silicone insulated cable has softer insulation and much finer strands making it very flexible. Each cable has their purpose. The silicone insulated cable is good for a test bench like I have here, but I wouldn't really wire an inverter up with it. It will depend on your use case and any code requirements you have to follow. This silicone insulated cable does not carry any certifications/listings.
Is it available to the public at a very reasonable price? Is it deep cycle for RV travel trailer? Are there dealers near Danbury Connecticut or Westchester County, NY ? Maybe it's smarter to tie two half the amp/hrs. in parallel? Thank you so much 👍🌲🌟
It's available for purchase on Amazon and their own website. There are links in the video description. It is deep-cycle and designed to be cycled to 100% depth of discharge. The price is reasonable and aligns with the current market value of lithium batteries. It's not cheap though :)
@LithiumSolar Hopefully, it's cheaper than Battleborns? Does it come with excellent guarantee? Is it user-friendly and made with high quality components and easily serviceable? Is it built/made in the USA ? Thank you 🌲☀️
@meilyn22 Thank you for giving us the cost. It's also very important to know how well it's made, the build quality. Is it easy to open, service, and repair? These are important things to know. Thank you 🌲 😊
after having this same type for 10 mons , battery failed, volts drop from 14,2v to 3.2 after powering the inversor on, changed the inversor to a brand new one and still the same prob. trying to contact vatrer sellers and no answer . i gess is the chip bms.
What you stated as 4-5x the point of failure by having individual 100Ah batteries, I see as 4-5x the redundancy along WITH a combined 400-500A rating which reduces heat and stress on all the BMS's. If one of my individual batteries were to fail, I simply disable it and the others continue to work. If your 1 big battery fails... you're SOL!
@@LithiumSolar Having all your eggs in one basket has many downs BUT yes, for those who may not have the knowledge to correctly and safely install parallel batteries, one larger battery could simply things at the cost of redundancy, longevity and power.
Whats your analysis after having them for a bit? Im looking at this 460ah or 2 230ah Litimes. The case and Bluetooth makes this feature rich but dont want to be buying subpar cells.
I really like the case - strong and sturdy design. I'm still getting conflicting information regarding the cells which concerns me a bit. I'm not sure.
This would Great for my Camper 2 of those would fit nicely, With a nice 3kw inverter charger would be great. Stop showing battery's because I need them so bad and you keep showing better and better battery with a great price.
The balance at rest set to 3.3v means that it will attempt to discharge any cell over 3.3v. So if you charge up the battery and leave it for a couple of days.......... Not the settings I would use. The Overkill app has noticeably better Bluetooth performance on my Samsung tablet and Pixel 7.
If you charge an LFP battery and leave it sit for several days, the voltage will have dropped to at or around 3.3V anyway. It doesn't stay at 3.65V when the charger shuts off.
@@LithiumSolar Yes, but the setting is quite useful to top balance. Depends on how "saturated" you get the cells, mine don't drop below 3.5v for a couple of days. Probably why when I top balance I never have a need for an active balancer.
@@MichaelEricMenk I suggest you give it a try. I just set mine to 3.3v and the cell delta was 1 millivolt, every cell shows as balancing because they are above 3.3v. Update, since I tried it on another (newer) JBD BMS. It seems the newer models do have software that perform as you indicate. The older models seem to have a different algorithm (as I indicate). So you are correct, it seems any JBD you purchase now won't balance unless the delta is greater than the set minimum.
@@LithiumSolar No it would weight the same. Sheesh. 12V @ 460Ah == 48V @ 115Ah. Same capacity, same number of cells and cell capacities, different topology. The whole point of using a higher voltage is that you can push the same power with far lower amperages and far, far lower heat.
@@junkerzn7312 There is something wrong with your math. This is a 460Ah battery. A 48V version of this would require 4 batteries to reach 460Ah at 48V. That's 4x the weight. I don't know where you're getting 115Ah from. Sheesh.
@@LithiumSolar Yes I have it in writing. It was a bummer. Went for 2 x 280 SOK because of that. Why not ask them yourself? I do not think they will not tell the truth. Here is a video to a another review that confirms that they use B cells. ruclips.net/video/i9uDE-98MDg/видео.htmlsi=fsFG266GxRGJF4hS
@@a2022z2 I did ask and I was told that the video your referencing was the initial design before mass production and that mass production have grade A cells. If you have proof otherwise (which it sounds like you do) please forward it to me. My email address is in the video description.
If anything does go horribly wrong with the cells and they start gassing a lot, a steel cased battery could develop enough pressure to produce quite a bad explosion. Plastic cased ones can do it too but the pressure isn't anywhere near as high of course. Not sure this unit could devlop that sort of pressure since there doesn't appear to be gaskets on any of the joints. Odds on it would be pissing gas out of every possible place if that ever happened but having vents doesn't hurt.
@@LithiumSolarfair enough but maybe link people to Tom's video, that way they can evaluate the risk. It's a lot of money to end up with b grade cells.
I realize 25C Is the standard discharge temperature for most batteries; however, I've never had to adjust temperatures during my tests to reach rated capacities.
I just purchased this battery for my RV. I purchased an Iota 55 IQ converter w a lithium battery adapter. This converter does not work? Any idea what converter/charger would work for my RV system?
I have no idea what you're referring to. There is no "blue thermal paste" in this video (unless I'm missing something). Also, yes, I'm well aware of how to torque bolts properly.
The cabinet looks like something they just had sitting around. As a result the wiring is downright frightening, like this is their shop prototype. High power carries genuine risk. This is built like a deadly toy.
"Chinglish" leads to funny wording. My favorite part is when they say "follow assembly rules for you will be doomed" 😂. I'm sure English sounds funny to Chinese people.
but you have NO redunsce in this setup, but you have it when using 2 or more in parrelle. But you rigth , when more put together you have more cable ect.
I usually listen to videos and I was just about to write a comment to tell this guy the battery name is pronounced VARTA. Then I looked at the video and he was correct in the name. Chinese companies often adopt SIMILAR names of quality manufacturers to infer their products are just as good. I would take Germany quality VARTA over potentially explosive, Made in China, VATRER. If you’re after CHEAP shit, roll the dice and try VATRER. Good luck. 🤞
I think you are missing something here. All the equipment inside is manufactured in China. Even if it has a German name (the other company) it will have Chinese parts in it. The way the world works these days amigo.
That has nice output, but still can't beat my 15Kw Hour 48V, 250A output, home-built 300 pound battery. I have a 10,000 Watt solar array in full sun right now (32X320W Renogy panels), connected to two Renogy 48V all-in-one, Charge controller wall mounted units (5,000W input each) , usually by mid-day all of my batteries are fully charged. That's eight 100Ah 48V batteries, plus a Bluetti AC300 w/ four B300 cell packs, plus an AC200L with B230, and the 15KW hour battery I mentioned first.
I use a Massey Ferguson backhoe arm to transport and swing the battery into my front door to get it inside. Right now it's 12:30 in the afternoon here in Texas and those batteries are topped off. I learned, if you're gonna play with the big boy batteries you need a backhoe transporter. I don't move any of my batteries without the backhoe.
so good video !! your content is really useful everytime ,could i know whether you have interested in testing our Powerwin lifepo4 battery ? we have 12.8v 100ah,12.8v 200ah ,51.2v 100ah !
This 12v battery seems like it would be good for RV usage. Edit: Oh, 4s2p. Ignore the 48v comment :( So it is a 4s4p battery? With those 16 cells they could make a 115ah 48v battery. I'd find that more useful, personally.
The joke, we have a massive 12 volt! sure plenty to run a industry on i do it smaller as litle as 540 volt and any amps but hi hi i am calimero they are big and i am small
I don’t know but if you’re going to spend $1400 almost for a damn battery I would like to see a little bit better warranty I don’t know five years I mean I’ve gotten batteries last longer shit I had a Harley battery but I had on trickle charge every time I had the bike park yesterday they couldn’t believe how old the battery was. But I don’t know five years for We’re almost a $1400 battery I don’t know I’m just getting into this getting ready to do my 83 holiday rambler imperial pool behind travel trailer
The internal of that battery case looks like a bomb waiting for a time to explode. I don’t like it I don’t care how good it is. She’s not look safe. Have a good day in as my opinion.
@@pmacgowan It's nice but not on the onus of the reviewer. In any case there was little if any imperial measurements used here. Also, this is a US channel reviewing products with US based links. Most people can also do the rough conversions in their head anyway.
![Why a 48V System is Better than a 12V? [Vatrer Power]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8ukQ9wQfMIY/mqdefault.jpg)
460Ah Battery Vatrer... www.vatrerpower.com/products/vatrer-12v-460ah-low-temp-cutoff-lifepo4-rv-battery-built-in-250a-bms-max-3200w-power-output-bluetooth-rv-version/?sca_ref=5388250.5te6HEtUQb
460Ah Amazon... amzn.to/4dkQ1iz
230Ah Amazon... amzn.to/42jeRu7
(affiliate links)
Please let me know what you think of this huge 12V battery!
Tell them to send me one, got to try and over load my system in a future video LOL!
4x12v=48v battery weights 104lbs 4 in Series = 412lbs at 460ah = forklift lol😅
What's the name of the app
Would love to see a similar review of Vatrer's new 12V 300AH Bluetooth with Self-Heating battery. Have they improved their build quality to all the newer models? I like the dimensions of the Epoch 12V 300Ah Heated & Bluetooth battery but don't think it's worth the price difference for 4 batteries ($945 vs $650 each with shipping and discounts). What do you think?
That's a big boy haha
That meter on the top is so strange..
I love the look of it but I really don't think it's working correctly. It's been 24hrs since I filmed most of this. The lid has been off all night and it's still showing 13C. The humidity has increased to 64% which still seems very off for January. I need to find a 3rd hygrometer to compare with as my Amazon-special probably isn't accurate either.
@@LithiumSolar weird haha
Hey Will, Please do a review on this one. It has a great form factor for an RV. Some reviewers and amazon reviews said it uses Grade B cells that scared me off. Now I can't see this exact one on Amazon anymore. I know you gave a good review on a smaller Vatrer. I would be tempted to buy this one if I could be confident it uses grade A cells.
@@WillProwse I'd love to see your review of this particular battery as well lol. It seems to leave a bit of lingering uncertainty, particularly around the cell condition.
I have 2 of these and they are awesome! The modular design was a key selling point. When I stupidly stripped one of the terminals, Vatrer sent me a free replacement and a few days later it was quickly fixed. I like it much better than the sealed plastic batteries.
Thanks for the video mate, your efforts have changed my thinking and now it's time for some new chemistry! Your reviews are very useful and full of the right info..
Would be nice to see a full load test. (250A) I think that is as important as a capacity test to see how the cell voltages stand up to higher amp draw. I watched another review of the same battery. In that battery all cells had a “B” stamped on the QR code indicating that Vatrer are using rejected automotive cells.
I have 2 of Vatrer's 200 amp hour batteriea I use in parallel in my RV. These have been in use for just about a year now. Currently being stored in my garage at full capacity. I am amazed how little power they have lost during this winter storage cycle! Very happy with this product!
Use something to draw them down to 85% so you do not damage them. A 400 watt roadpro DC heater ran a few hours will do it on a cold day.
@3:00 I think they're referring to the space on the terminal since aluminum lugs are larger. Although I don't think aluminum is used very often anyway.
I have a very similar set up DIY with a 200a JBD I found having the bus bars connected the same way as shown caused cells 2 and 3 to not “current share” and always had lower capacity. By removing the 4 way cross bar and connecting them in diagonal manor corrected the issue.
At 11:17 you can even see cells 2 and 3 are the outliers.
I’d wager it’d get worse and worse if you cycled it 5-10 times.
With the small balance current of the JBD it’s going to be working hard.
I do say this is as close to what I want in an off the shelf battery, love the serviceability and allowing you to change parameters of the BMS.
14:05 No, you have 5x the reliability. If that 460Ah pack has a BMS die you have a brick. If one dies in the 100Ah string you still have 400Ah on tap.
For any high reliability application like remote solar or marine all your eggs in one BMS basket is a substantial risk.
I suppose that is a valid way to look at it as well. I'd still prefer one battery over several 100Ah's but that's just me.
While its a matter of high reliability to have more then 1 massive battery its also matter of economics. Most people in RV and offgrid simply cannot afford losing over a thousand bucks on a battery. We are kinda reaching a point where buying 1 battery challenges monthly net income after expenses, for a poorer RV-er/offgrid guy.@@LithiumSolar
No you just open it up and you have cells to work with
I thought I'd share my initial test. We needed a bigger bank and for my 2nd go I really wanted BT so I could set the BMS parameters and monitor the status (I'm a Tech and not knowing drove me nuts) and have accessibility for maintenance. I received mine at the beginning of June and swapped out my 200ah Chins in my RV. I did not utilize my shunt as I'm going to rely on the BMS (Chins didn't have BT). Out of the box I put a 230a load on it for 20 minutes with no issue. I finished draining it at 150a until my inverter shutoff at 10.5v. The BMS showed the battery at 0% (I think the BMS uses voltage based reading until it completes a cycle, then coulomb counts). I then lowered draw to 45a until the inverter shutoff at again at 10.5v. At this point I drew 5a until I hit 11v (2.75v cell) at rest. I can't imagine needing to draw this monster below 11v so I consider this 0% capacity and set the BMS battery capacity at 500AH to give the parameters some headroom for testing and turned on balance only when charging so it wouldn't bleed off balancing once charger stopped. I charged at 80a (Fluke meter read 79.7a at cable in) and the BMS started counting AH. In the morning the charger had shutoff, at rest the voltage was 13.83v and the battery was at 100% or 500AH. I was pleasantly surprised and didn't take screenshot of the remainder as this was all well into bonus territory. I restarted the charger and I think it started charging at 40ish amps and over about 30 minutes slowly dropped to 0a at 14.2v (3.55v cell). I would guesstimate an addition 10 to 15ah. After the season I might bump up the capacity in the BMS to 525ah and do another cycle test but for now I couldn't be happier and this Vatrer 460ah was well worth the purchase. My 200ah Chins out of the box also exceeded it's 200ah capacity about 7%. Moving from 6v GC battery bank, over 3 years the Chins battery exceeded my expectations and made me a believer, Lifepo4 is a game changer in an RV. Having said that, 500+ah is amazing and have all the features I realized I really wanted. Hope this helps anyone considering.
You are look like a honest man, i have subscribed👍
There is a 300ah model. It would be nice to evaluate it when there is a chance. Thank You
I bought their 48 V golf cart battery. It seems to be pretty good and really well-made. The only issue I’ve had is last week after I charged it with a full charge. It only shows 80ah capacity. They did send me a message and told me to run the battery down and then charge it back up but it’s still only came up to 81ah. Hopefully they will have me try something else 🤞🏻.
If the battery capacity is always only 80ah, please contact us for a new battery.
I just found you and subscribed immediately. Good information, very nicely presented. Keep up the good work!
Yes! the bms app displays the pack and individual cell voltages based on the balance harness connections which have zero current flowing on them for maximum accuracy.
Will the BMS shut the battery down when it reaches its low temp limit? The reason for the question is. We will be leaving Wi traveling to FL in January. We are wondering if the battery will power our coach heater going down the road in possible temp below 0 F until we reach warmer temps. Also if the battery shuts down what will happen if the engine alternator is trying to charge it? Would we be better off not connecting it until we reach warmer weather?
Good afternoon. I just installed my 460AH lithium battery from you all in my rv. I was reading the ideal charging Amps was 92.
I am looking to add an AC charger once I’m plugged into shore power to charge the battery when I don’t have solar but unable to find any 92amp rated chargers. I have found lots of 100amp chargers rated for lithium. And a few 75 amp chargers.
My question is, would getting a 100amp charger be too much and damage my battery? I’m under the impression that even rated at 100 amps it likely won’t reach 100 in real world amps and even if it does it won’t stay there very long.
Or should I not exceed the 92amps and get 75?
Thanks for the information. Good video.
I love the app you suggested. WOW
OMG, this is a monster lol. I have a 100 Ah Vatrer with a built in heater and bluetooth, I love it, it’s a massive improvement over my original AGM travel trailer battery.
How much @stuart
@@blackbumble9988 $289.99 before tax
Good Video... especially like going over the BMS setting on the cell phone....
Just found your channel - Excellent Content. Another sub for you sir! (on both of your channels)
Hey LS, don't have to tip the pack to remove a cell. You can use SFK cell removal tool to pull a cell from the pack or make one.
What is the SFK cell removal tool? I don't see it on their website unless I'm missing something obvious?
@@LithiumSolar It's just a 3d printed handle that you can attach using the two terminals on the cell. Handy, but not "special".
@@john_in_phoenix Ah ok, so it pulls the cell out by the terminals. I'm not sure how strong they are but the neoprene foam stuff they use on these batteries has a suction cup-like effect. It's not glued but it sticks on - I'm sure there's a scientific term for it. I'd be hesitant to pull them out that way personally.
@@LithiumSolar Yes, I have never tested how strong those terminals are, it just makes it easier to grab a cell. It won't help with the "sticktion".
@@LithiumSolar search RUclips for this video by SFK - "SFK V4 build & capacity test video REPT 280" forward to 11.22 minutes and play. you can make with other materials
Hygrometer. It's for measuring humidity in the air. Hydrometer is a different instrument. It measures specific gravity of liquids. Often used in distillation, beer making and wine making.
Yes, that is correct.
@@LithiumSolar it is indeed. Since you called it a hydrometer and didn't elaborate, I figured there are viewers who would like to know the difference.
Holy crap... can I use 4 of these for a for a 48v ebike? I wonder if I can buy a car hub motor for this... this is nutz.
LOL you would be looking at 425lbs just in battery weight, not to mention a frame to mount them.
2500 mile range with a trailer.
I recently upgraded to a Temgot 460AH LIFEP04 and love it so far. Such a huge upgrade for me. I never thought I would be able to have so much battery in my microcamper. I wonder how much more they will be able to squeeze into this footprint in 2 years time. Imagine if they ever can get 1000AH in this size!
They are great batteries. You can keep taps on the cell packs via Bluetooth.
Thank you for the low temperature charging shut off test!!!
For clarity, there are no heating pads, correct?
Bless
12.8V though. Using a 12V architecture pretty much stops making sense once the storage capacity gets that high. Not only do you want to run a higher system voltage at that point... 24V or 48V (51.2V nominal), you also want at least two batteries in parallel for redundancy and robustness. And you want to avoid series configurations for the same reason... no redundancy with series, and less robustness.
Also, the charge and discharge rates are fairly poor... it is actually fairly typical for these high-capacity 12V batteries to not be able to charge/discharge at 1C due to the amperages involved, and that's a big problem. 150A charging and 250A discharging? 1.9kW charging and 3.2kW discharging. A single 48V 100Ah battery (5.12kWh) can do 5.12kW charging and discharging and it can do it with only 2 AWG cabling at 100A.
In anycase... there are a few minor challenges retro-fitting a higher voltage battery architecture, but the results are phenomenal. Its perfectly acceptable to decide to stick with 12V if retro-fitting a higher voltage would cost too much (having to replacing other pre-existing gear such as the inverter), but anyone doing a new build should go straight to 48V without looking back, even for a small system. But particularly for a big system. Getting stuck with huge, expensive 12V batteries can make for an unhappy camper a few years later.
-Matt
If you're doing 3kW discharges, I agree that you're using the wrong voltage here. I would not suggest building a 24V or 48V system with these (or any 12V battery). I see this designed for someone who wants extended runtime not maximum power. For example, you can't even run a 300W load off this battery for a full day.
@@LithiumSolar 48V architectures are sold all the way down to 25Ah. Even if you wanted a small system, you could still use 48V. The point is that if you want to scale up, you hit a wall with 12V at 1/4th the capacity that you would with 48V.
I think you are misunderstanding the difference between amp-hours and the actual energy content of the battery.
12.8V @ 460Ah = 5.89 kWh of storage
51.2V @ 115Ah = 5.89 kWh of storage
A 48V architecture at 460 Ah would be over 23 kWh of storage capacity. That would be a huge system.
If you want to compare like-with-like, you compare the same storage capacity. So NOT a 48V archite ture at 460Ah, but a 48V architecture at 115Ah. Same number of cells, same type of cells, same size cells, same energy content, different topology.
-Matt
@@junkerzn7312 I am not misunderstanding anything. You have two different discussions going here - one complaining about voltage and the other missing the point of OP's request. If you want a 5888Wh battery at 51.2V, then this is not for you. This is a 12.8V battery. Not everyone shares the same opinions you do, thus we have free choice. If you don't need a 12.8V 460Ah battery, then you should not purchase one. It seems pretty simple.
@@LithiumSolarI'm not saying that people don't have free choice. There are certainly situations, mostly retro-fits, where sticking with 12V makes financial sense. But that would pretty much the only reason to ever sock yourself with 12V. Literally.
One can argue whether 24V or 48V is easier from a learning or upgrade perspective. It is impossible to argue that 12V is a good architecture these days. It just isn't.
Free choice != correct choice. As an influencer, people depend on you to provide them with the correct choice. Right? You don't want to sock people with an architecture that massively limits their flexibility a year or two down the line, and you should at least understand and explain that rather than just pushing a huge 12V battery out your channel.
People who buy big 12V batteries need to do it for very good reasons, almost universally related to retro-fitting something they already have, and not for dumb reasons. That's what your job as an influencer is. To make that distinction.
-Matt
@@junkerzn7312 a 12v lithium bank charges off a 12v alternator more efficiently than a 24v bank charges thru a 12-24v dcdc or even worse, a 48v bank thru a 12-48v dcdc. Additionally, 48v appliances are more expensive and not offered by many mfgs. Then, you have to use a 48v converter for all your 12v devices, and that's another point of failure, and another parasitic drain, and the converter has an efficiency loss in itself, just like an inverter. A 12v bank is optimized for 12v charging efficiency. A 48v or 24v bank is optimized for discharging efficiency and solar charging efficiency. For someone that drives a lot in a place with not much sun, with a vehicle where a second 24v alternator setup would cost 2K, a 12v system makes more sense.
I bought 4 of them for solar system at cabin. 24 volt-920 ah. The solar guy said those are one helluva unit. He went and bought one for his RV.
With regard to comment noted at the end of the video about using multiple smaller batteries in parallel, there is another advantage to that setup not noted. If you install a disconnect on each of the single smaller batteries you can isolate them if one of them fails. Then you won’t loose the entire battery capacity. Yes, the total cost will be more, but the redundancy is well worth the extra cost, especially in a marine application.
Impressive battery. In my yacht I have a little different need and use. I currently have 13 Valence 12xp-27u batteries all in parallel. The advantage to me for this is these need to start 2 pretty large diesel engines. Each BMS is capable of 150 amp continuous and 300 amps for 30 seconds. I have been able to start an engine with 4 of these batteries, but the wiring has to be perfect or the BMS's shut down in a cascading event. So I have 6 wired perfect and the other 7 connected not so perfect. A little odd because the boat came with wiring for 2 completely separate battery banks for Port and Starboard. But unlike lead, I can most likely still start one engine with 5% capacity remaining and definitely the little 12kw generator engine that can recharge the batteries with the on board charger or the 2kw of solar. Also, this battery is not really suited for storage in the bowels of a boat and would start to rust and corroded in short order. But with all that being said, this would be a great battery for an RV or home storage. Thanks for the video.
👍Thanks for sharing.
in your opinion,what would be the best manufactured batteries?thanks
Haven't bought or built 12V batteries in a few years now. Don't know and don't care why anyone would even bother anymore. Just use a buck converter in everything I do now if I need a lowly 12V source.
great review, been thinking about ordering one of these but they are out of stock now.
Amazon is out of stock. Their own website is accepting pre-orders through.
Hey LS, our team has BMS, are you interested in BMS?
try a dark Grey mat or color mat on new desk top - this will make products / details more visible - Lighting will be easier -
small light reflectors are your friend - to hold small things bean bags are fast and easy -
I rest my hand on desk when showing phone app reduces movement - easy way to look better -
setting up shoot its good idea to take a few photos of set lighting locations -
at some latter date you have video that Looks Real Good you can look at Ur photos of light positions were -
saves time - easier
Thanks for the tips. The choice of mat was more for circuit board part use (server boards), didn't intend to really put black batteries on it when I purchased it. Also, phone shakiness was partially caffeine consumption LOL.
What is the absorption time on this battery? You need to know this information to hook it up to your charge controller.
Hello. I have a question please. I have one Ampertime basic battery and two Li-time mini batteries, all with 100A 12V ratings. I would like to connect them in parallel, but the manufacturer advises against it due to differences in BMS and battery cells between the two types. What do you think?
Where did you get that 1/0 battery cable?
The cable came from here... ebay.us/yogho4
You can also go to any welding supply store and get cable by the foot. The welding leads are very flexible and 6-8 AWG through 4/0 are frequently stocked, at least in my area.
I tried 2 of the Vatrer smaller 7a 12v batteries with poor results in a 12v scooter, they could not provide the amperage the small razor scooter needed just in case anyone needed this info
what size should the inverter be ?
That will depend on what loads you're trying to run.
Did you use welding cables ?
No
@LithiumSolar then what vendor built those flexible cables ? Please ! Current Connection ?
@@VideoByPatrick The cable is from "random ebay dude" here ebay.us/As7iMq and I crimped the lugs on myself.
@LithiumSolar thanks so much, few videos ago you used welding cable and demonstrated it's flexibility benefits; I value your insight and findings. This new cable method I assume is thiner than welding cable.
@@VideoByPatrick The silicone insulated cable has softer insulation and much finer strands making it very flexible. Each cable has their purpose. The silicone insulated cable is good for a test bench like I have here, but I wouldn't really wire an inverter up with it. It will depend on your use case and any code requirements you have to follow. This silicone insulated cable does not carry any certifications/listings.
Is it available to the public at a very reasonable price? Is it deep cycle for RV travel trailer? Are there dealers near Danbury Connecticut or Westchester County, NY ? Maybe it's smarter to tie two half the amp/hrs. in parallel? Thank you so much 👍🌲🌟
It's available for purchase on Amazon and their own website. There are links in the video description. It is deep-cycle and designed to be cycled to 100% depth of discharge. The price is reasonable and aligns with the current market value of lithium batteries. It's not cheap though :)
@LithiumSolar Hopefully, it's cheaper than Battleborns? Does it come with excellent guarantee? Is it user-friendly and made with high quality components and easily serviceable? Is it built/made in the USA ? Thank you 🌲☀️
It's $1400
@meilyn22 Thank you for giving us the cost. It's also very important to know how well it's made, the build quality. Is it easy to open, service, and repair? These are important things to know. Thank you 🌲 😊
@@Hundert1 Did you watch the video? Many of these questions are answered there...
after having this same type for 10 mons , battery failed, volts drop from 14,2v to 3.2 after powering the inversor on, changed the inversor to a brand new one and still the same prob. trying to contact vatrer sellers and no answer . i gess is the chip bms.
Can the RS45 or VE can be used to communicate with victron?
What you stated as 4-5x the point of failure by having individual 100Ah batteries, I see as 4-5x the redundancy along WITH a combined 400-500A rating which reduces heat and stress on all the BMS's. If one of my individual batteries were to fail, I simply disable it and the others continue to work. If your 1 big battery fails... you're SOL!
Sure, you could make an argument that way as well. Both sides have ups/downs.
@@LithiumSolar Having all your eggs in one basket has many downs BUT yes, for those who may not have the knowledge to correctly and safely install parallel batteries, one larger battery could simply things at the cost of redundancy, longevity and power.
Whats your analysis after having them for a bit? Im looking at this 460ah or 2 230ah Litimes. The case and Bluetooth makes this feature rich but dont want to be buying subpar cells.
I really like the case - strong and sturdy design. I'm still getting conflicting information regarding the cells which concerns me a bit. I'm not sure.
You should do a tear down on the hqst 100 ah battery. I haven't seen one on there current battery.
This would Great for my Camper 2 of those would fit nicely, With a nice 3kw inverter charger would be great. Stop showing battery's because I need them so bad and you keep showing better and better battery with a great price.
The balance at rest set to 3.3v means that it will attempt to discharge any cell over 3.3v. So if you charge up the battery and leave it for a couple of days..........
Not the settings I would use. The Overkill app has noticeably better Bluetooth performance on my Samsung tablet and Pixel 7.
If you charge an LFP battery and leave it sit for several days, the voltage will have dropped to at or around 3.3V anyway. It doesn't stay at 3.65V when the charger shuts off.
@@LithiumSolar Yes, but the setting is quite useful to top balance. Depends on how "saturated" you get the cells, mine don't drop below 3.5v for a couple of days. Probably why when I top balance I never have a need for an active balancer.
@@john_in_phoenix Fair point. I suppose something like 3.40 may have been a choice here.
No, not correct.
It will start balance at 3.3V AND the imbalance is above 15mV.
@@MichaelEricMenk I suggest you give it a try. I just set mine to 3.3v and the cell delta was 1 millivolt, every cell shows as balancing because they are above 3.3v.
Update, since I tried it on another (newer) JBD BMS. It seems the newer models do have software that perform as you indicate. The older models seem to have a different algorithm (as I indicate). So you are correct, it seems any JBD you purchase now won't balance unless the delta is greater than the set minimum.
Nice review
I wonder if they make a 48 V version?
I doubt it. That would weigh about 425lbs and practically require a forklift to move!
@@LithiumSolar Or an engine lift to move around 😂
@@LithiumSolar No it would weight the same. Sheesh. 12V @ 460Ah == 48V @ 115Ah. Same capacity, same number of cells and cell capacities, different topology. The whole point of using a higher voltage is that you can push the same power with far lower amperages and far, far lower heat.
@@junkerzn7312 There is something wrong with your math. This is a 460Ah battery. A 48V version of this would require 4 batteries to reach 460Ah at 48V. That's 4x the weight. I don't know where you're getting 115Ah from. Sheesh.
@@LithiumSolar You understand that the storage capacity is in watt-hours, right? Calculate it. Come on, this is pretty damn basic.
Good evening... What is the voltage and current of the unit cell and what is its type?
It's a 12.8V, 460Ah battery. The cells are EVE LF230.
looks like a quality battery Not a bad price either
begun, the battery wars have.
Talked to Vatrer. They said all Vatrer 12v-460Ah comes with B-cells.
Really?? Was this an email? If so can you forward it to me?
@@LithiumSolar Yes I have it in writing. It was a bummer. Went for 2 x 280 SOK because of that. Why not ask them yourself? I do not think they will not tell the truth. Here is a video to a another review that confirms that they use B cells. ruclips.net/video/i9uDE-98MDg/видео.htmlsi=fsFG266GxRGJF4hS
@@a2022z2 I did ask and I was told that the video your referencing was the initial design before mass production and that mass production have grade A cells. If you have proof otherwise (which it sounds like you do) please forward it to me. My email address is in the video description.
Interesting they included venting. I know my early model 3 tesla battery pack “pops” all the time when charging and when driving in cold weather.
If anything does go horribly wrong with the cells and they start gassing a lot, a steel cased battery could develop enough pressure to produce quite a bad explosion. Plastic cased ones can do it too but the pressure isn't anywhere near as high of course. Not sure this unit could devlop that sort of pressure since there doesn't appear to be gaskets on any of the joints. Odds on it would be pissing gas out of every possible place if that ever happened but having vents doesn't hurt.
There are air vents on the side of the case as I noted in the video.
Most coaches have battery compartments exposed to elements, will the vents allow dirt, etc into the battery and cause problems
I want one of these. Too bad they dont seem to ship to Sweden :(
Tom Gep does a great review of this 460ah battery. It uses b grade cells.
ruclips.net/video/i9uDE-98MDg/видео.html
His uses B-grade cells. Mine don't have the B stamp and I was told they're A-grade.
@@LithiumSolarfair enough but maybe link people to Tom's video, that way they can evaluate the risk. It's a lot of money to end up with b grade cells.
Why don't they make IP67 housings? So I can use in my camper in Germany.
... what about the "Gals"?!? ... Hey Gals!
The phrase "hey guys" addresses a large group of people. It's does not imply that everyone in the group is male.
looks like they’re not available on amazon
They are now. 6/9/24
It's been a while, I see you cut the thumb. 😬
That's not from the battery this time lol. Dry skin this time of year...
@@LithiumSolar In the past I've used vitamin E oil, It Works well for that. Just don't plan to handle anything until it absorbs into your skin. 👍
If you repeat the capacity test with 25°C cell temperature, you will probably exceed the 460Ah rating.
I realize 25C Is the standard discharge temperature for most batteries; however, I've never had to adjust temperatures during my tests to reach rated capacities.
Better of with 4 0r 5 100ah batteries except compactness.
I just purchased this battery for my RV. I purchased an Iota 55 IQ converter w a lithium battery adapter. This converter does not work? Any idea what converter/charger would work for my RV system?
dude the 'BLUE' thermal paste is there for a reason and every screw and bolt has a torque setting.
I have no idea what you're referring to. There is no "blue thermal paste" in this video (unless I'm missing something). Also, yes, I'm well aware of how to torque bolts properly.
The cabinet looks like something they just had sitting around. As a result the wiring is downright frightening, like this is their shop prototype. High power carries genuine risk. This is built like a deadly toy.
The rabbit was worth the entire video. 🤣
"Chinglish" leads to funny wording. My favorite part is when they say "follow assembly rules for you will be doomed" 😂. I'm sure English sounds funny to Chinese people.
but you have NO redunsce in this setup, but you have it when using 2 or more in parrelle. But you rigth , when more put together you have more cable ect.
😃😃😃 muito top
What paric in Pakistani carecy
I rather buy the cells and build my own battery for half that price, not that difficult.
todays price is $1,289.USD
buy ten of them only $9.USD off each unit.
but no matter good or bad. out of my price range.
but my back will thank me.
Power the whole block😅😅
I usually listen to videos and I was just about to write a comment to tell this guy the battery name is pronounced VARTA.
Then I looked at the video and he was correct in the name.
Chinese companies often adopt SIMILAR names of quality manufacturers to infer their products are just as good.
I would take Germany quality VARTA over potentially explosive, Made in China, VATRER.
If you’re after CHEAP shit, roll the dice and try VATRER.
Good luck. 🤞
I think you are missing something here. All the equipment inside is manufactured in China. Even if it has a German name (the other company) it will have Chinese parts in it. The way the world works these days amigo.
I can't just cough up 1400 dollars so I will go with smaller 100ah batteries it's cheaper and don't have to buy em all at once
I need 2
That has nice output, but still can't beat my 15Kw Hour 48V, 250A output, home-built 300 pound battery. I have a 10,000 Watt solar array in full sun right now (32X320W Renogy panels), connected to two Renogy 48V all-in-one, Charge controller wall mounted units (5,000W input each) , usually by mid-day all of my batteries are fully charged. That's eight 100Ah 48V batteries, plus a Bluetti AC300 w/ four B300 cell packs, plus an AC200L with B230, and the 15KW hour battery I mentioned first.
I use a Massey Ferguson backhoe arm to transport and swing the battery into my front door to get it inside. Right now it's 12:30 in the afternoon here in Texas and those batteries are topped off. I learned, if you're gonna play with the big boy batteries you need a backhoe transporter. I don't move any of my batteries without the backhoe.
Make your own video stupid...
A HUGE 12 volt , " 400.60 " ?? Ah. Battery
It's a 12V 460Ah battery. Are you asking some kind of question there?
Genuine EVE cells not pulling 3-5% more than their rating?
Only good explanation is a poorly balaned pack
WTF the cells were perfectly balanced....bizarre
Yep, and they were perfectly balanced at 100% charge as well. I don't know...
so good video !! your content is really useful everytime ,could i know whether you have interested in testing our Powerwin lifepo4 battery ? we have 12.8v 100ah,12.8v 200ah ,51.2v 100ah !
This 12v battery seems like it would be good for RV usage. Edit: Oh, 4s2p. Ignore the 48v comment :( So it is a 4s4p battery? With those 16 cells they could make a 115ah 48v battery. I'd find that more useful, personally.
There are 8 cells, not 16. They do have a 48V 100Ah rack battery but I do not know the cell type.
The joke, we have a massive 12 volt! sure plenty to run a industry on
i do it smaller as litle as 540 volt and any amps but hi hi i am calimero
they are big and i am small
I don’t know but if you’re going to spend $1400 almost for a damn battery I would like to see a little bit better warranty I don’t know five years I mean I’ve gotten batteries last longer shit I had a Harley battery but I had on trickle charge every time I had the bike park yesterday they couldn’t believe how old the battery was. But I don’t know five years for We’re almost a $1400 battery I don’t know I’m just getting into this getting ready to do my 83 holiday rambler imperial pool behind travel trailer
The internal of that battery case looks like a bomb waiting for a time to explode. I don’t like it I don’t care how good it is. She’s not look safe. Have a good day in as my opinion.
Thank you for your....assessment.
Metric!
Please if you are using imperial, please also give the data in metric as well, you know the one the rest of the world uses
You can use Google to convert it yourself. It's absurd to expect someone to report everything in two different units.
@@pmacgowan It's nice but not on the onus of the reviewer. In any case there was little if any imperial measurements used here. Also, this is a US channel reviewing products with US based links. Most people can also do the rough conversions in their head anyway.
Anybody look at the Temgot 460ah? The display on it looks very good. both priced around $1200 now.