Looks like a quality build. IMO, one improvement would be replacing the internal fuse (where could you get one?) with an external circuit breaker. No need to tear it open to see if the fuse blew and the CB could act as the on off switch.) Then there's always the notion of having all your AH's in one basket so to speak. If one cell goes belly up you're OOL. Price seems OK for the features but IMO the $1299 "Essentials" battery seems the better buy.
The class T is required for proper AIC rating of lifepo4 as per electrical standards and Boat ABYC regulations. I don't know of a cost effective breaker with an AIC rating of the required 20k amp interupt current rating needed for lithium. If there was one that didn't raise cost much it would be great idea.
Thats a great way to use a battery this big! It will charge a power station multiple times. You do get a little more efficiency if you use a 48v battery though, no alternator charger needed.
Reasonably priced "especially compared to Battle Born" is a joke, right? Battle Born pricing is outrageous and irrelevant in 2024. The days of the 100Ah $1000 Battle Born (even if its price has come down a bit since then) being relevant are long gone, thankfully. Other perfectly reputable brands of drop-in batteries now are all down around $150 or so per 100Ah, at the bottom of their Amazon price fluctuations. Cheapies can be had in the $119-$135/100Ah range. I'm most excited about all the small car-battery-shaped 300Ah batteries that recently hit the market in the $425 to $550 range, almost always with a checkbox coupon to get it under $500. Most have a 200A or 250A BMS, and weigh 53 to 58 pounds. If that's too much weight for a particular application, all sorts of brands are coming out with 140Ah, 150Ah, 160Ah, 180Ah, 200Ah, and 260Ah versions of it. Sometimes in the same size case, sometimes smaller. There's a nice 160Ah one weighing 29 pounds that I have my eye on, and a nice 180Ah one, though the 300Ah is just so tempting even if I'd rarely use the extra capacity while car camping. It's reaching the point where people will choose batteries based upon how much weight they're willing to put into their car/RV/boat, rather than cost or their calculated requirement, because the cost is becoming negligible. This November and Black Friday, it's going to be incredible what bargains can be had. I expect several brands of compact 300Ah to go below $400. The old/long shape of 280Ah might hit $300.
Believe it or not.... People are still buying BattleBorn batteries since they don't know better. This is a much better option! Cheap batteries are cheap for a reason. I see it all the time with products I test, budget products always have some reason why they are cheap. Did you see the quality of this thing on the inside? It's amazing! Most cheap batteries don't use high quality cells. The cells aren't capacity matched either so they go out of balance within 100 charge cycles. The cheap battery components might hold up if they stay in the same place for their whole lifetime, but if you want something that's going to hold up to vibrations and the stress of moving around in an RV, you'll want something more than a $175 battery. You definitely have the right to use your money the way you want and I respect that for sure, but just understand that there is a big difference between a cheap battery and this premium battery.
I think the biggest difference between a cheap battery and a higher quality one is the customer service and warranty. All those cheap battery companies will leave you high and dry if something goes wrong...especially all those no name brands on Amazon LOL. I think it's cool that EPOCH is located in the US with actual people to answer the phone. Just my two cents.
Is there a particular use case this is designed for? Like is this a common footprint for an RV house battery? I wonder if they think about that when they make these increasingly larger batteries.
This is designed for a mobile setup. RV house batteries and boats that have a lot of vibrations during traveling. Their essentials 460 battery is better for batteries that won't be moving around.
maybe someone can explain to me why anyone would need or want such a high AH 12v system. Why not run 24v or 48v, save money on cables, solar/charger, less heat. more efficient. What am I missing?
My thought: 12v is safer to work on, and many existing systems are built on 12v (e.g. RVs, where it would be expensive to replace all components) and I don't think there are as many options for 24v.
@@Emerald13 Makes sense, wasn't thinking of retro fitting. But 24v to my knowledge can't get through the bodies resistance, so it's not dangerous. And by now there are plenty if not as many 24v parts for a system
If your whole system is 12v and you don't have the skills needed to swap out all the wiring and components, using a battery like this will get you more capacity in a very simple way.
This with an inverter would run a full size 28-30 cubic foot refrigerator for probably 55-60 hours depending on the temperature of the room the refrigerator is in.
Fridges usually pull 1.5kwh-2kwh per day. As mentioned, you'll need at least a 2000w inverter for your fridge but it should last 3 to 5 days depending on ambient temps.
I'm a noob. But why would you want to turn the battery off if it's connected to a charge controller and panels. Wouldn't that damage the panels or charge controller?
Have you found a viable LifePO4 battery that can be used as a starter battery for a car? Occasionally they come up on Amazon as dual purpose but unsure of brands.
There are some lifepo4 starter battery but I think your battery has to be away from heat source like the engine bay . Best for under the seats 💺 (audi) or in the trunk like the bmw . In the engine bay nothing beats the lead acid for now
Looks like epoch sells some. I’ve seen people use large lifepo4 battery banks to start smaller motors. It’s more of a limit of most BMS, they typically don’t have surge ratings. I’ve read some forums of people having good luck with lifepo4 starter batteries on Amazon in the 30-60 dollar range. Not sure if they even have a bms. They can’t be used with a motor using a stator coil (puts out small amounts of unregulated voltage).
I'd say it's probably best to stick with lead acid for a dedicated starter battery.... for now. Lead acid batteries are great for the extreme conditions under the hood and lithium batteries aren't quite up to the task. There are a few available but I'd let the technology mature a bit before getting one.
Anti-gravity is one brand specifically marketing to that segment. They have batteries in automotive sizes, such as group 51. I haven't seen their units get reviewed by reviewers like Jason or Will Prowse, but the latter are coming from the solar/greenpower/RV/camping world, while Antigravity is competing in the automotive sector specifically. I've been considering one of their units, as I drive a Miata in Vancouver (mild climate, battery is located in the trunk, and it's a summar car) but can't really justify it when the lead acid does the job. I might consider the weight savings if I were tracking the car though.
I just do not get it . I see tests of these show full capacity . Then i watch reviews of the all in one like the delta pro and they show 80-90% usable capacity .???
A power station has a computer and electronics inside so in order to keep those running the brand has to leave a bit of 'reserve' power in the tank. So when it hits 0%, it's not really 0%. Also you have to convert / invert power from the original battery voltage to another voltage which has built in efficiency losses. Raw batteries don't have any of that so you can get the full 100% from the cells.
Yes but 5x 100ah single batteries might(200$ each) be 1000$ and this equivilant is 1700$ ahh math doesn't jive! Five batteries at 5X100ahX12.8 =6400 watts. About 600 more watts... Sure is a nice case for the 700$ though lol..
Those cheaper batteries usually don't have heaters or Bluetooth. I guess it all depends on what your looking for. There are definitely batteries for every project. You're probably looking at over $150 additional costs in parallel cables and fuses for those 5 batteries so make sure you also consider those extra costs. Thanks for watching! 👍
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I purchased the Epoch 300A Essentials battery and it is very impressive. It's relatively compact and the Bluetooth app is first rate.
The app for these batteries works very good! 👍
Awesome video! Thanks for the info.
Looks like a quality build. IMO, one improvement would be replacing the internal fuse (where could you get one?) with an external circuit breaker. No need to tear it open to see if the fuse blew and the CB could act as the on off switch.) Then there's always the notion of having all your AH's in one basket so to speak. If one cell goes belly up you're OOL. Price seems OK for the features but IMO the $1299 "Essentials" battery seems the better buy.
Hmmmm, I like that idea. Thanks for sharing your feedback! Maybe they can integrate that into a future design.
The class T is required for proper AIC rating of lifepo4 as per electrical standards and Boat ABYC regulations. I don't know of a cost effective breaker with an AIC rating of the required 20k amp interupt current rating needed for lithium. If there was one that didn't raise cost much it would be great idea.
What about vibration tests? And high instant shirt G loads? All important for boats or mobile devices that get hanged around.
Another great review, thats why I keep watcying.
Thanks for the constant support, Jim!
Good review!!! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
i just ordered to replace house batteries in my truck camper
This is a BEAST, you'll love it.
if you attached an ecoflow alternator charger to this you could charge and discharge it with an ecoflow solar generator.
Thats a great way to use a battery this big! It will charge a power station multiple times. You do get a little more efficiency if you use a 48v battery though, no alternator charger needed.
Reasonably priced "especially compared to Battle Born" is a joke, right? Battle Born pricing is outrageous and irrelevant in 2024.
The days of the 100Ah $1000 Battle Born (even if its price has come down a bit since then) being relevant are long gone, thankfully. Other perfectly reputable brands of drop-in batteries now are all down around $150 or so per 100Ah, at the bottom of their Amazon price fluctuations. Cheapies can be had in the $119-$135/100Ah range. I'm most excited about all the small car-battery-shaped 300Ah batteries that recently hit the market in the $425 to $550 range, almost always with a checkbox coupon to get it under $500. Most have a 200A or 250A BMS, and weigh 53 to 58 pounds. If that's too much weight for a particular application, all sorts of brands are coming out with 140Ah, 150Ah, 160Ah, 180Ah, 200Ah, and 260Ah versions of it. Sometimes in the same size case, sometimes smaller. There's a nice 160Ah one weighing 29 pounds that I have my eye on, and a nice 180Ah one, though the 300Ah is just so tempting even if I'd rarely use the extra capacity while car camping.
It's reaching the point where people will choose batteries based upon how much weight they're willing to put into their car/RV/boat, rather than cost or their calculated requirement, because the cost is becoming negligible.
This November and Black Friday, it's going to be incredible what bargains can be had. I expect several brands of compact 300Ah to go below $400. The old/long shape of 280Ah might hit $300.
Believe it or not.... People are still buying BattleBorn batteries since they don't know better. This is a much better option!
Cheap batteries are cheap for a reason. I see it all the time with products I test, budget products always have some reason why they are cheap.
Did you see the quality of this thing on the inside? It's amazing! Most cheap batteries don't use high quality cells. The cells aren't capacity matched either so they go out of balance within 100 charge cycles. The cheap battery components might hold up if they stay in the same place for their whole lifetime, but if you want something that's going to hold up to vibrations and the stress of moving around in an RV, you'll want something more than a $175 battery.
You definitely have the right to use your money the way you want and I respect that for sure, but just understand that there is a big difference between a cheap battery and this premium battery.
I think the biggest difference between a cheap battery and a higher quality one is the customer service and warranty. All those cheap battery companies will leave you high and dry if something goes wrong...especially all those no name brands on Amazon LOL. I think it's cool that EPOCH is located in the US with actual people to answer the phone. Just my two cents.
What battery do you have your eye on that's 160AH and weighs 29 #s?
Is there space inside to add Anderson connections to the top like you did on a previous battery?
I'm sure you could find a place for something like that. It's got decent space inside 👍
Is there a particular use case this is designed for? Like is this a common footprint for an RV house battery? I wonder if they think about that when they make these increasingly larger batteries.
This is designed for a mobile setup. RV house batteries and boats that have a lot of vibrations during traveling. Their essentials 460 battery is better for batteries that won't be moving around.
Will you be comparing this to the Essentials version?
maybe someone can explain to me why anyone would need or want such a high AH 12v system. Why not run 24v or 48v, save money on cables, solar/charger, less heat. more efficient. What am I missing?
My thought: 12v is safer to work on, and many existing systems are built on 12v (e.g. RVs, where it would be expensive to replace all components) and I don't think there are as many options for 24v.
@@Emerald13 Makes sense, wasn't thinking of retro fitting. But 24v to my knowledge can't get through the bodies resistance, so it's not dangerous. And by now there are plenty if not as many 24v parts for a system
If your whole system is 12v and you don't have the skills needed to swap out all the wiring and components, using a battery like this will get you more capacity in a very simple way.
@@Jasonoid right, my fault didn't think of retro fit for some reason
@@scotth9984 for a new build, 48v is definitely the way to go!
Can you do a video on use of this like how long it would run a fridge?
This with an inverter would run a full size 28-30 cubic foot refrigerator for probably 55-60 hours depending on the temperature of the room the refrigerator is in.
Fridges usually pull 1.5kwh-2kwh per day. As mentioned, you'll need at least a 2000w inverter for your fridge but it should last 3 to 5 days depending on ambient temps.
Do the math. 5800 WH's / by 100 watts?. About 2 days depending.
@@bobjones9727 a fridge compressor doesn't run all the time though
@@Jasonoid With the ice maker off mine seems to pull 100 watts continuous. I'll have to check it again.
I'm a noob. But why would you want to turn the battery off if it's connected to a charge controller and panels. Wouldn't that damage the panels or charge controller?
You wouldn’t want to
Have you found a viable LifePO4 battery that can be used as a starter battery for a car? Occasionally they come up on Amazon as dual purpose but unsure of brands.
There are some lifepo4 starter battery but I think your battery has to be away from heat source like the engine bay . Best for under the seats 💺 (audi) or in the trunk like the bmw . In the engine bay nothing beats the lead acid for now
Looks like epoch sells some. I’ve seen people use large lifepo4 battery banks to start smaller motors. It’s more of a limit of most BMS, they typically don’t have surge ratings. I’ve read some forums of people having good luck with lifepo4 starter batteries on Amazon in the 30-60 dollar range. Not sure if they even have a bms. They can’t be used with a motor using a stator coil (puts out small amounts of unregulated voltage).
Will Prowse just did a video about them. I do not remember the brands but he tested one and talked about some other brand.
I'd say it's probably best to stick with lead acid for a dedicated starter battery.... for now. Lead acid batteries are great for the extreme conditions under the hood and lithium batteries aren't quite up to the task. There are a few available but I'd let the technology mature a bit before getting one.
Anti-gravity is one brand specifically marketing to that segment. They have batteries in automotive sizes, such as group 51.
I haven't seen their units get reviewed by reviewers like Jason or Will Prowse, but the latter are coming from the solar/greenpower/RV/camping world, while Antigravity is competing in the automotive sector specifically.
I've been considering one of their units, as I drive a Miata in Vancouver (mild climate, battery is located in the trunk, and it's a summar car) but can't really justify it when the lead acid does the job. I might consider the weight savings if I were tracking the car though.
Epic.
Is this battery overkill or to big to put with a 5x10 Hiker squaredrop camper/trailer???
You can never have enough battery! Always go with the biggest battery you can fit in your space and afford!
good video, can you include metric measurements for the rest of the world?
Sure thing!
When you talk about Bluetooth I'm out. Don't have a smartphone or computer!!! 73 years old 😅
You don't need the Bluetooth to use it, it's just there if you want it 👍
I just do not get it . I see tests of these show full capacity . Then i watch reviews of the all in one like the delta pro and they show 80-90% usable capacity .???
A power station has a computer and electronics inside so in order to keep those running the brand has to leave a bit of 'reserve' power in the tank. So when it hits 0%, it's not really 0%. Also you have to convert / invert power from the original battery voltage to another voltage which has built in efficiency losses.
Raw batteries don't have any of that so you can get the full 100% from the cells.
Yes but 5x 100ah single batteries might(200$ each) be 1000$ and this equivilant is 1700$ ahh math doesn't jive!
Five batteries at 5X100ahX12.8 =6400 watts. About 600 more watts... Sure is a nice case for the 700$ though lol..
Those cheaper batteries usually don't have heaters or Bluetooth. I guess it all depends on what your looking for. There are definitely batteries for every project.
You're probably looking at over $150 additional costs in parallel cables and fuses for those 5 batteries so make sure you also consider those extra costs.
Thanks for watching! 👍
Is that even legal???
Please elaborate on your question 🤷
did not show us how to connect to the battery just talked about it. no good info mate
Epoch is pronounced e-pok not Epic?
Yep, but it's not pronounced the way it's spelt...