Silicone Soap Mold BATTLE; DAWN vs CORN STARCH. Surprising Results!
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Thanks go to a Mity Mouse channel viewer for the idea of comparing Dove to Corn Starch.
Next up, making soap and sharing my famous simple recipe. For FREE!
I am totally surprised by the results of this experiment.
Intro and outro music created for me and courtesy of, RUclips channel, "TheMineDestroyers":
/ @carolinacowboys
Applause audio from RUclips Free library.
Oh! And that great announcer's voice is of course, me, Mity Mouse.
After using roughly 40 tubes with some cornstarch and mostly soap (I wrap the silicone around old paint rollers to make concrete and paint texture rollers and also texture mats) I can tell you the soap method is the way to go. Use a larger container with more water and less dish soap, measure 24oz of water 3oz of dawn, you can use cheap dish soap but dawn is more concentrated so less is more and in the long run it's all the same, stir the mixture and when dispensing the silicone into the bowl make sure the tip isnt cut super big so you can sort of coil the silicone into the bowl allowing more surface contact with the soap on the initial squeeze out. The reason I say it's better is not just because it's less messy but I've found using cornstarch sort of dilutes the silicone giving it more of a porous surface when it cures where the soap method leaves behind 100% silicone and the surface of your molded material is much smoother and has that sort of non stick quality people look for in silicone. All of the cornstarch texture rollers and mats that I made got tossed due to constant sticking and liftoff with concrete, the ones i made with soap i still use to this day and several I've made for stone workers that they absolutely love and use on a regular basis. The most recent one I did was a 2'×3' travertine stamp that used 7 tubes of silicone at once all mixed in a mortar tub and it exceeded my expectations, $30 in silicone vs $100 in silicone mold making material.
I tried the Dawn method, 4 days ago and my molds are still drying 🤷 did I add too much Dawn soap?
I didn't even make huge molds, I'm experimenting to create molds for plaster castings for some art projects.
Thank you -- this is helpful.
Yeah 2 10 oz tunes of silicone are 20 bucks now😅
At the beginning, I didn't think I would watch till the end but it was so funny and I learned about nitrile gloves thanks!!
For anyone stopping by this video in present times: I'm an SFX makeup artist who regularly uses (platsil) silicone for skin safe prosthetics. Latex (it's the sulphur in it, I do believe, I forget the actual chemical compound offhand haha), inhibits the curing of silicone. We only use nitrile gloves for this reason when working with silicone and also make sure to never try to run silicone prosthetics in a mold that has had any interaction with latex components. The warmth of your hands is also what begins curing the silicone as you knead allowing it to form that ball. We use dish soap as a release agent oftentimes as well (surprisingly good and doesnt cost much at all! Lol Better than spending on epoxy parfilm release if youre on a budget) so that it doesn't want to cure *onto* anything. The soap method is definitely the best way to go if you're...doing *this* lol, and of course using non-latex gloves. A hairdryer to help speed it's curing is also your best friend!
hope you see this sweetie...i'd like to make a mould for a candle my grandma used as her "lucky charm" on holidays at the family poker table. she has passed and it was the only thing i wanted from the estate besides a book on irish folklore...anyhooty, i want to mould this little elf riding a snail candle safely and cast beeswax candles for my entire family, for "good luck"
any help would be loved and appreciated,
thx, helga
luvabean if you haven't found an answer email me at artisanjewelrysupply@gmail.com
its the moisture in the air that cures it.
So which one is better, soap or corn starch?
its not the warmth, it is water that makes it cure. there is a cure inhibitor that makes the silicone cure as soon as it gets exposed to any moisture including ambient humidity,
Tip: Nearly all caulking guns have a cutter and a seal puncture wire built in. This gun shown here has it. Only really old cheap ones sometimes didn’t have them. The little hole in the side of the handle is for cutting the tip, you put the tip in and squeeze the handle to cut it off (the cutting part is inside the handle). You decide how far to put it in for a smaller or larger tip opening, and whether you want it angled or not, just tilt it if you want an angle.
Then usually on the underside of the handle (sometimes on the side of the gun), there’s the wire to slide the tip in to puncture the seal. Stick the tip onto the wire inside the handle, and wiggle it around a little to widen the hole all the way if you want, then wipe it off right away, or you could let the caulk or glue build up to make it thicker if you really wanted to, just let the tip stay sharp enough to poke it. If the poking. wire is on the side of the gun, it can usually be rotated away from the side, and put back in the place after use.
When I’m not using it all up, I put a longer stick, nail or screw into the tip and cover it tightly with plastic wrap, and tape it up. Keeps it from drying out for next time.
I mention it because I once had a contractor over to assist with something, and he had been in business over 30 years, and he was digging around for a knife, and didn’t know about it until I pointed it out to him. He never knew why there was a hole in the handle, or that there even was a poking wire in the handle at all. Never noticed it. All tools to open the caulk or glue are on board:)
Miss Kim - great tip ... Now I have to go to the garage and look at my caulk gun. And - they finally made a cap (cheap) to cap off a tube.
I actually like that you didn't have a "perfect" video. It gives me (as I will be doing this for the first time) an idea of what happens in different scenarios. Plus, all the comments are very helpful with their thoughts / corrections. Great job! I enjoyed the video! Thanks for posting!
How'd it go?
I like putting the object in a box and mixing nail polish remover with the silicone till it is pourable and then just pouring a mold. let it set over night and it is ready. for your pan you should be able to just peel the mold off without cutting it
Dip the bottom of the pan in melted wax several times or until you have a smooth surface,then cast over that. No sticking.
You also don’t need gloves if you oil your hands. Some people use mineral or cooking oil but I prefer coconut oil.
When my larger molds are a little bit flimsy, I add another layer after the first one is dry.
Thank you for mentioning the odor. I dont know how many videos I have seen where people NEVER mention this and do this in heir homes with pets and children. Thanks for sharing !
Deby it does smell a little, but it is only acetic acid (vinegar) not a problem. A bag of fish & chips smells more.
You have to kneed the corn starch and silicone until it's no longer sticky. It'll have a smoother texture for whatever your molding. Happy crafting!
The solvent in Silicone is Acetic acid, AKA vinegar. I wouldn't want to eat the stuff, but so long as the pH is mild, you shouldn't have any biological harm come to you. Wouldn't want to sniff it too much either. :)
No.. acetic acid attacks the skin directly and allows the silicon monomer easy access to the body where it can be very detrimental. The most noticeable is industrial dermatitis. I got this from repeated exposure and now the slightest touch I break out in hives that last for weeks☹️ you should always be careful around all chemical products.
Thank you so much for a great tutorial. I have had a tube of this silicone stuff sitting around forever to do something similar. Not for soap but molds for other things. Thanks so much. Great detail.
Lori, I am working on a new mold invention. Stay tuned.
1/8 cup of Dawn. Mix really well. Water should be cold, but not ice cold. 3 tubes of caulk. You can purchase a case for next to nothing at Menard's.. I mix without gloves. Do it outside. Let sit for 24 hours before removing the mold. Makes a really nice mold.
The corn starch would add volume to the silicone. So, the mold done with dish soap has less volume than the corn starch one. Another thing to mention, if you choose to do it with dish soap, do not use gloves. However, use gloves with the corn starch
Awesome! thank you. I'm researching this for making a mold for myself and I found this video extremely educative (and cost effective also)
Wonderful!
that hole in the handle cuts off the tip, and the rod is made to use as a poker to break the inner seal. neat eh?
From what I understand, that was WAY more soap than is needed.
Great video! I like the fact that you didn’t sugar coat anything. You experimented, learned lessons, and tried again. That’s life!😊
Awe what a great comment. You get me. Made my day. Thanks. 🙏
You could have placed the second loaf tin over the first one after you covered it with the mould putty, giving the moulds a more even, smoother finish, and it would sit evenly inside the loaf tin when you cast the soaps.
you can snip the caulk tip by inserting it into the handle of the caulk gun and squeeze the handle.
Thank you for this video. I've been debating for some time now between the two, the water vs the cornstarch methods. You have helped me to make up my mind.
You can place it back in the pan for support when ever you're ready to mold your soap.
Yep, and I like making two big batches at a time too.
...yes, or lean one side on the wall and add something to support the other side
Silicone caulking uses acetic acid (vinegar, is about 3% acetic acid, and water) as a solvent, that's why it smells like vinegar. It's not toxic but it's concentrated enough to potentially be very irritating to your skin and lungs.
It also cures by the acid evaporating out of it or being replaced with moisture (from water); which is why it won't stick to something that it wet, the part touching the surface will start curing before getting into the surface of it. Also, if it's too cold, the acid won't be able to evaporate properly (unless there's starch in it to absorb the moisture out of the rubber part).
Corn starch is easier to work with a cures faster because it soaks the acid out of the silicone inside and out, while insulating your hands from sticking and having some moisture content of it's own to offer. The trade off is that it will be stiffer, less stretchy and more brittle or prone to tearing (weaker) than more pure silicone.
You can also make a dough with acrylic or other water based paint that will set it off curing, and add colour, but the more you put in the faster it cures and the weaker and stiffer the final result.
You can slow down it's cure time AND make it handle-able by adding corn starch and/or paint pigment AND another solvent (like naptha), so you can work with it longer, but the more you add to it the weaker it is, and not all of those are necessarily suitable for making things that will be used with food or body products.
Hi! You sound like you know about making silicone molds. It's my first time and I want to make a mold of my daughter's moana pendant to make more for her birthday party, as well as a maui's hook which I will make out of homemade cold porcelain clay. Both will be about 1"x 2" and have fine detail, which I hope transfers. You say in your comment that cornstarch is easier to work with. Is that what you suggest for me to try vs. the dawn method? Thank you in advance! BTW, I bought 100% clear silicone. Am I correct in assuming I can make this a month in advance of the party?
Using cornstarch will make it more like dough, but cure faster, similar to the silicon dough sold in kits to make home molds. It should be easier to work with, and get good detail, mix it to the consistency you want and immediately press the object into it. That will work regardless of what the pendant is made of, but if it's glass, you might want to press in into the dough and immediately remove it, as silicone will bond to glass. If it's a plastic pendant though, silicone doesn't stick very well to plastic, so you could probably just coat the front of it with a good glob of silicone, making sure it's in all the details, and is thick enough to hold its shape, and just peel it back out in a couple days when the silicone has cured. silicone molds won't go bad, or break down in the foreseeable future, so making them ahead of time should be fine. I haven't used the dawn method but it seems quite a bit messier and hard to work with, and I'm suspicious of how the soap affects the final integrity of the silicone.
Scereyaha what if I want to mold a cold porcelain figure? should I seal the figure first?? thanks
Almost definitely, porcelain can have a porous surface and can also be very glass like, or even have a glass glaze on it. Silicone will stick very impossibly well to glass, other silicone, and anything else with a high silica content.
Things like plaster and NON fired clays will separate from silicon because of their powdery surface texture (if particles of silica in the outside stick they'll just pull of the surface layer), but once fired or _especially glazed_ I'd say definitely coat them in something the silicon won't stick to.
Since you're talking about "sealing" I would guess you mean a raw fired porcelain surface, and that you intend to do something that isn't a glass glaze (something like oil or wax, or release spray, etc...), If that's the case then the short answer is yes.
Scereyaha your awesome. I forgot it was acetic acid, and this now makes the dawn method make sense. Your removing the acid with the help of water and using dawn to keep the surface tension low. The more water, the more the solvent can be carried off, making fast cure times and a strong silicone to silicone chain.
Great now I'll have to do some videos going deeper in to this... lol
Thanks for making that calculated error so we all know what not to do. Nice correction.
PLA plastic; Any acid and any starch will make the long chain molecules for PLA plastic The acid in the silicone needed together with any starch is basic formula for PLA plastic. Though normally heated the needing still sets up the same reaction. That is why the sides are stronger and firms up faster.
Thank you. Loved knowing the chemical knowledge
If you lubricate the object you are molding with petroleum jelly or unscented Pam ect.; you can get around the silicone sticking to whatever you are molding. There is also a product called mold release that resin Crafters use that takes care of the stickiness.
Best mold release I've ever used is 4 parts liquid Ivory soap, and 1 part talcum powder. Mix thoroughly to a paste, and store in an airtight container. You can add a drop (but no more than two, ever!) of food coloring to help you see where you've put it, and if it ever seems like it's thickening up, add a drop or two of plain water. Best stuff ever.
Sacrilegious to use a Pampered Chef measuring bowl for this! Hahaha Kidding! Great video. Thanks so much.
PS If you have trouble getting the silicone out of the tube, poke a hole in the back of the tube.
Fortunately it’s inert. And glass is impenetrable.
Thanks for this!!! This helped a lot. I'm glad someone did a versus video. I just bought silicone and I have corn starch for my art stuff already but was wondering if I should go out and buy some soap for my molding.
There is a built in tool on most caulk guns to cut the end of the tube and another one to poke the hole. Mine was like $4 at Walmart.
Shoulda put it in the other pan then pushed it Down with the pan on top
is what i was saying to self..... and would have been alittle thicker, solid.
great idea!
Incorporate either coffee stirrers or tongue blades into the molds and that will make them sturdier. Put a layer of mixture down, gently push sticks into mix but don't go too far in then cover them with the rest of the mixtures!
Brilliant idea, I was thinking of pieces of coat-hangers but the sticks are better!
You're not being paranoid about the gloves, the silicone is horribly sticky and without gloves it's an absolute mess in all the cracks and crevasses of the fingers and hands! I enjoyed this video very much, Thanks for sharing with us!
Brittney, that is really good to know.
The cornstarch method turns into a non sticky dough like consistency when enough is used and it's kneeded thoroughly. You should be able to then roll it out into a uniform thickness before draping it over the pan.
I do believe you are right! Makes me want a do-over, I am considering a two tube version for a larger, longer batch.
I noticed you used Dawn as a release agent for the straight silicone mold but not for the cornstarch mold. That's probably why the cornstarch mold was more difficult to release from the pan. Then again, the Dawn could have soaked into the cornstarch and affected the mold. I think your comparison may have created more questions than it answered. :)
AFAIK this instructable was the birth of the cornstarch method: www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/
I believe it's best to pre-measure your cornstarch in a throwaway container (like mixing epoxy) and knead until putty-like. within 5 minutes the silicone actually starts to cure because of the increased surface area by the corn starch and you have another 5-10 minutes to form it before it's too stiff to work. Less cornstarch by volume will give you a stickier "dough" and a longer working time, though... I've made custom ear-plugs like this and that acetic acid (that smell) is no joke!
Boco Clacko
🤔 🤔...(?)...
So-what would/might happen if baking soda was substituted for cornstarch?
Or-for that matter-baking powder?
(Just wonderin’, is all...)
@@Sedgewise47 baking soda might work, but why bother? The author of that Instructable likely already tried it and found it inferior to corn starch. Copied and pasted:
"As I understand it, 100% silicone caulk works by the moisture in the air initiating the polymerization of the silicone. So it cures from the outside in and as it does, it allows the water vapor to slowly seep inside and eventually cure the unexposed silicone. While it cures, it gives off Acetic acid (vinegar is diluted acetic acid) which is the strong smell you will notice if you use it.
*"I experimented with quite a few additives to try and introduce some moisture into the uncured silicone. Several of them worked to some degree, but the hands down favorite was also the least expensive.*
"It turns out that corn starch is highly absorbent and when sitting around in an open box it will absorb moisture from the air. It is an extremely fine powder that diffuses evenly in mixtures. By adding the right amount of corn starch, the sticky silicone is somewhat stiffened and very quickly starts to set up from the inside out. While it still sets up faster on the surface than in the middle, the whole thing will set up in five minutes to 2 hours no matter what the thickness. The actual curing time depends on the temperature, the humidity, the amount of corn starch added, and the speed at which it was mixed.
"So that's it. Oogoo is corn starch and clear silicone caulk mixed together and then molded by hand or by forms to create just about anything you can imagine that needs to be adhesive initially and solid yet flexible when cured."
I use my bare hands as long as I have no cuts or abrasion. I wash my hands in the soapy water, mix my rubber under water if my hands start to stick I put hand back in the soapy water. For very fine detail I first paint my service.with three thin layers first. Then I catalyze the rubber in water., and by patting it down as layer the surface and be certain to fill in any under cuts with well mixed rubber.. if you have any more questions let me know.
Thanks for sharing!!
One thing I learned is make sure your water isn't cold! The silicone won't set if it is. It's December and my little mobile home doesn't have central heating or air conditioning. Just ac units which let in the cold winter air. So our water is cold lol. Took soooo long to become workable. I thought I got the wrong stuff but it turned out it was just me lol. The warmer the water, the faster the cure time which is why they say room temperature water.
we learn as we go
Oh Heck Yeah!!! LMAO. Awesome video and thanks for sharing!! Subscriber from NW FL.
Roll it out like pastry before laying over the mold for more smoother shaping, adding a bit of cornstarch to the work surface and pin alao as in baking, less chance of missing patches
Yes I see Joxman2k also commented using the "plaster bandage shell method, it does well as a support mold or you could make a burlap and concrete support mold". I forgot about the plaster bandage for the mother mold and its the easiest of the all!..
Most caulk guns have a hole in the handle to cut off the tip of the tube. They usually have a metal rod that swivels out. This is used to puncture the seal.
Well done, 658 comments, you've covered something that really interests people!
Appreciate it Eric.
I found out gloves don't matter. I had it stick to nitrile gloves. It depends on how long you let it soak in the water.
True. But I have skin issues. Better to be safe,,, for me. Thanks Keith.
That's not a problem. we fasten it with a latch. anyway, when you put the ingredients in it, they all pack up. ....thank you for the experiment.
One thing that is very important but I didn't see mentioned is that there's actually 2 types of silicone caulk that are both 100% - silicone type 1 and type 2. Silicone type 2 either takes forever to cure or will never completely cure at all. Make sure you get type 1 silicone. On GE brand, you'll see a "Silicone 1*" or "Silicone 2* up near the tip.
Sometimes learning the hard way is unavoidable. Thanks for the tip.
Wow! that info is so lacking from what I've heard , I wished I would have known that before, so thanks for that because I've been having trouble and I did"nt know it was because I was using the cheaper type 2.
effsixteenblock50 , wow! Thanks a lot for the tip😉
I so mad that I did not see your comment this morning...I tried to do the soap method with the type 2 this afternoon....what a freaking mess it sucks my things are stuck in gooo
You could have put some dawn soap smeared around the inside of the other pan and put it over the one with the silicone on it to even it out.
I've seen in other videos to keep the silicone under water while kneading, which seems to give a better result. Thanks for the video.
Great point!
Yeah.
Mix soap well into the "cold" water, get your hands good and wet too.
Mix in a big bucket.
Squirt out a thin snake of type 1, 100% silicone into the bucket and let it sit for 2 minutes.
Then start gathering it up, mushing and kneading slowly till it starts firming up.
Keep folding it into itself (water is activating the silicone). I believe the soap is just so it's not as sticky. I believe the more soap you add, the worse of a product you'll end up with. (but it's a nessesary evil)
when i make larger silicone molds i use spray foam insulation for the mother mold. it keeps the silicones shape but is flexible enough to remove if your casting has significant undercuts...
miester rhovanion so make the silicone mold first, then would you put the finished silicone mold in a box or something and then spray the foam on the outside of the mold, which is down inside the box? How would you be able to get the concrete statue out if u used concrete in the mold?
Demo video link??
Corn starch can be used with super glue to weld plastic simply add super glue then sprinkle on the starch (or baking soda) and it will set instantly.
great for sticking back on broken plastic lugs and tabs.
Mick, fantastic. I have never succeeded at gluing anything with super glue. But you give me purpose to try again. Thanks bunches.
You want to practice on something first as its prity much instant and in quantity produces a heat reaction.
I generally use Baking Soda, be safe have fun and good luck!
When it’s sticky like that I just keep adding soap 🧼 and nitrite gloves 🧤
The initial silicone is dissolved in acetic acid (some brands are dissolved in a hydrocarbon) which causes the smell. The dawn water dissolves the solvent out causing the silicone to cure faster. plain water will also work, but you'll need more water. Cornstarch contains some moisture which causes the silicone to cure from the inside out (instead of drying). cornstarch tends to tear easier, but dries faster and is thick to work with. you can think out the cornstarch mixture with naptha or white gas to make it thinner.
There’s 3 ways #1 cornstarch #2 dish soap #3 acetone
I think that the silicone and cornflower or corn starch is the best for making molds myself,, as I got problems using washing up liquid and silicone,. As you can make smaller moulds ,I've even used custard powder, it's still cornstarch and makes the moulds smell a bit better too ,!!!
the other gentleman using silicone used food coloring as a caalyst before throwing it into the corn starch. he had lot less trouble creating molds
I don't know if someone else said this already, but from all of my years as a chef and wearing gloves, the first gloves looked look like nylon, but even if they weren't and they were latex, did not have cornstarch on them. When you get your hands wet in the kitchen, and then have to change gloves, you can dip your fingers in some cornstarch, rub it on your hands, and it slides right on. If you do not use cornstarch, and your hands are even slightly wet oh, it is a nightmare to get the gloves on. I say this, in part because your other method involves cornstarch, and I bet it's for the same reason. Cornstarch absorbs water, but it's also very slick, somewhat like graphite. Cornstarch has a lot of weird properties, when you start looking into it. The long chains that it forms is why it thickens suaces so well when heat odds added.
There is a trick where you mix a box of cornstarch with just enough water for it to absorb it and become fluid, but just barely. When you do it right, it will harden as it sits, and you can put your hand down onto it, and re-stir it to get it flowing again. It won't stick to your fingers either. Now, take a little water, maybe a cup, and bring it to a boil. When it boils, take some of the mixture (re-mix it real quick) and pour about ½cup of the mixture into the boiling water whisking quickly as you do so. It will thicken instantly and become creamy, continue whisking until all of it has reacted. Now take the hot mixture and whisk it into the cold mixture. This will turn the corn starch mixture into a homogenous suspension. You might want to do this, and the try your mold. Just a thought. I would still covert y your mold with the powdered mixture. I would even get that work the soap, but be very liberal. Whatever isn't absorbed won't do anything, it will just fall off as a powder. Good luck
You didn’t coat the cornstarch one with a release coating before applying the compound. Not a criticism, just trying to help and great to know. Excellent test.
Yes like talk power or manybe the dish soap or coarn startch
I will be making my Jewellery moulds tomorrow cant wait.
You don’t need much dish detergent. It just keeps the silicone from sticking to your hands.
It was my understanding that the cornstarch was to be incorporated into the silicone, which would make more of the final product by that method -- thus the thicker walls. I wonder which product would be best at molding fine details and which would be stretchiest, since I'm molding clay rather than soap.
Hmm? Maybe both combined?
Great video, thank you. Gotta love the incredibly repetitive comments of people telling you what you did wrong, what you should have done, etc... They should have read a few of the previous comments...
Very cute video. Very informative too! Thanks!
Next time put baby oil on the mold before putting the silicone on it. But it was a helpful video.
Care if you have sensitive skin. Preservatives in many dish soaps cause eczema and are carcinogenic.
The silicone pump you are using has its own clipper in the handle! Also a metal: "needle" to pierce thru the nozzle if you leave the top open to the air when you're finished.
oh now i know where i got my allergy... the dish soap makes my skin itchy, thank you for this comment
thanks for sharing... I have not yet tried this... maybe if you put your mold back into your pan the sides will stay up right better for pour your soap into...going to do this again thanks and it was great to see what problems you had so we know what to expect...
Did either of the silicone tests shrink afterward? I am very curious about that.
I find that the cornstarch dries the silicone out too much. I only use water and dish detergent. I cut the entire end off and push the silicone out that way
using cornstarch you ended up with more product so it ends up thicker than the other. just sayin if you had more of the caulk mix from the soap, and it was applied thicker on the pan you might have had different results
cornstarch made a better one because that one was almost twice the volume because of added cornstarch... but with my experience cornstarch one doesn't give you shiny surface after casting and is pain in the ass while mixing with silicone and while cleaning the container
You are correct, sir.
but with further experiences i chose cornstarch over the other method😁😁@@Mity_Moose
good comparison. I have tried both methods the soap didn't work for me at all. For cornstarch method add few drops glyicrin or baby oil & use a tool to cut the corn starch in its self first before using hands. work quickly, it cures quick less than hour. also you may consider adding additional layer to the first for added strength and thicker mold.
make a video. I wanna see.
the cornstarch works like adding gravel to concrete....binds it together and makes it stronger
Hahaha! That’s cute. I love the sound effects.
Dude! I just Peed my depends! When that stuff stuck to your gloves and you just kept going I couldn’t stop laughing keep the comedy coming ...I love it!
Well! It really depends now doesn't?
I know...people just love laughing at others..till it happens to them.
If you make a plaster of Paris mother mold before you demold the silicone you will have a stable form you can work with.
The hole on the handle of the gun is a cutter for the tube tip.
Never knew that, ty
I just finished watching your video. I was thinking that if you coated the pan with cornstarch before you put the silicone/cornstarch mix on it, the finished mold would be easier to remove.
In a couple of the videos I was watching today on YT, a tiny bit of oil was added to the silicone/cornstarch mold mix. Oil might also work as a release agent for the cornstarch mold. Some videos add a bit of acrylic paint to color the mold.
I'm looking forward to making my first silicone molds. Of course I'll definitely have a window or two open, and a fan blowing!
Thanks for this video! Have a good week!
Best regards,
Dianna
Dianna Diatz or spray it with Pam cooking spray
he's not cooking lol. The surface of the mold wouldn't be perfect if he did that.
oh, dear you could change silicone glue with silicone rubber, which is eay to make a mold and skin safe, the most importact is it could save your time.
I would use a rolling pin to to even the silicone around the tin.
This was wonderful - love! You are a genius!!
...I learned a lot - Thank you for sharing! xoxo
next time you try this experiment try sprinkling a little corn starch on your pan to use as a realeade g agent or using a little Saran wrap. just an idea.
thanks for the video, good to know that starch will help make it sturdier. ...i have to say though that seeing that water just keeping running down without being used caused me psychological pain...
People use bare hands because it doesnt stick to soapy hands. Add kebab/popsicle sticks on the side to give form before it sets.
Great test, corn starch will also be much more heat resistant as your resin gets hot.
You should try cutting and shaping a wire coat hanger to fit your pan and then embed it in your mold for stability.
Not sure where you live, but after going through hurricane Maria & losing water & electric for 70 days, I have a new respect for water. Can you imagine turning on the tap & nothing comes out? We need to respect water, don’t waste it!
Yep!
I've tried at least 30 to 65 of these homemade silicone putty recipes for molds. None were worth it or work near as well as the 2 part "play-clay/puddy" you can by at hobby stores 2pounds cost about $19.00 take equal amounts mix together put around item hands off 2 hours if didnt get amounts right put in 200 degree oven for 20 minutes. I got 43 4 inch long by 2.5 inch wide by 3/4 inch deep molds could've got 60ish if I'd made them all thin as directions stated. This stuff doesnt stink your nose and lungs don't burn it doesn't take days to set can use in about 2 hours-you don't even need gloves. It just peels off super easy. Im on close to 500 uses for each mold and have only lost 3-2 the puppy chewed holes in 1 the cat batted around and had many small claw holes in it AND there was instructions on how to cure for safe use for food preparation.
That was fun! And I see your water obviously doesn't cost as much as our water here does! ;)
Thanks. I have never addressed the comments about water, but thanks for being kind about it. I scolded myself for the lack of responsibility. It just so happened that, at the time of this video, the local lake dam was leaking. I thought about watering the yard for the dam sake, but our water bill for 20 years was always 100buks/mo.
In case nobody else pointed this out, I'm fairly certain that the clear gloves were vinyl, not latex.
Good eye.
Firming it up was a good choice! 👍🏼
There's no reaction between the dawn and the silicone, the silicone is cured by water, the dawn just makes it so you can handle it. Cornstarch does the same thing but since the moisture is in the cornstarch and it's thoroughly combined with the silicone it does the same as lots of water on the outside.
I tried this just with the water, no cornstarch, no soap, 4 days later just a sticky mess, tossed it in the garbage. Will try this method.
But if it cures with water and silicone is waterproof how does that work? Idk what silicone to get so I bought GE 100 silicone in the blue packaging for doors and windows or whatever one. Idk lol every time I watch videos they don't say what kind their using so I wasn't sure. It also is the non paintable kind which I don't get really if we mix paint in it but I guess it's cuz we do it before it's cured it's ok right? Or should I have bought the paintable one? Sorry people make videos but don't really explain the details on what kind of silicone to get
Nicely done! I would think that using corn starch makes more mold material. It does seem more rigid than using Dawn and therefore better for larger molds. I want to try this on a Giza pyramid shape. Thanks!
Yeah! I am actually thinking of making a two tube mold which will give me a long block, 4lbs maybe.
Hey make a mold and share on YT, fun.
Great video, could you have just embedded string around top while it's curing for strength? Going to try my first attempt, probably use corn starch, thanks for showing it sticking to your gloves. Every little thing helps us first timer thanks again
Yeah! That sounds good.
Thank You so much!!!! You have helped enormously. I have just arrived back home not in the RV, so ow I can make my soap molds!
Okay! You just made my day. Thank you back.
Well, it takes at least 24 hours minimum to firm up.
Well who would of thought adding a filler would give a bit more support lol but great video cheers
If a balloon is stretched over a bread pan mold, would that eliminate the wrinkle effect that supermarket plastic bags create?
Couldnt you have used a second bread pan, and just sandwhiched the silicon between them to make your mold, just making sure you had enough release agent on the bread pans?
You can use the bread pan, to give the mold support to keep its shape?
Maybe try putting the silicone in one pan then press the other pan in it and press down then
Watching this long after your experiment. Thinking, what if you rolled it out like pastry, lay it in one pan like a crust, then set the second pan inside the first. Let it cure. Remove the second pan from the inside. You now have a silicone lined pan to pour in your soap mix. The sides are stronger and will hold form until the soap hardens. Then you could flip the whole thing over ,releasing the silicone with the soap inside. Remove the silicone mold ,like a glove, and this allows you the cut the soap into pieces like a loaf of bread.
Yeah! I had the same thoughts back then. But I surrendered to the factory made silicone molds. Bread pan shape is okay for large slices, but just not practical enough.
Interesting 🤔
Great vid Mity, thanks for sharing it.
I've been using the cornstarch method for a few years to make all sorts of molds and find it great to work with. One tip I learned early on is to put a drop or two of oil into it, olive, vegetable, sunflower, work well, mineral/synthetic oils, I'm not so sure about as I have never tried them, but the organic ones work fine, just don't overdo it. It helps to make the mix easier to work with and dries just as quickly. It can also be rolled, kneaded, cut, etc when fully mixed, and any trimmings left over at the end can be rolled out flat then cut with a jar lid, cookie cutter, or any other implement you feel like using, then left to dry and used as washers or seals for a number of projects. I also found it seems to dry at an amazing rate and can be ready to use in a matter of hours depending on the mix. (Can you tell I like working with this stuff lol)
The corn starch method is so much easier
this video is so wonderful , after seeing you video,i want to create a cup in my own liquid silicone good luck to me !
This has probably already been said before, but it's so much easier to mix the silicone and cornstarch in a zip bag. Also, you can add a couple drops if acrylic paint or glycerin to regular silicone caulking to make it cute in hours instead of days or weeks. It gets moisture inside the silicone which is needed for it to cure.
Another trick is to mix the silicone with mineral spirits to thin it out, which is useful to paint onto the positive to fill in holes where bubbles can form. Keep in mind the silicone will eventually shrink so don't use it for anything besides very thin layers.