I have used the cornstarch method several times, and I find it works very well. You simply did it wrong. You are supposed to add a small amount of acrylic craft paint to it, not just to colour it, but to speed up the curing process. You are also supposed to mix a lot of the cornstarch into the silicone while it is still in the cup. This will make it much less sticky when you start kneading it. While I do wear gloves and frequently get sticky fingers, I have actually used my bare hands with the cornstarch method on occasion without having to remove goo from my hands afterwards. The mixture cures very quickly, often within 15 minutes(!). The molds are not crumbly like your's was. They are firm and hard like those little bouncey rubber balls I used to play with when I was a kid, and the detail they pick up is marvelous.
I agree. I use the cornstarch and silicone method all the time and it works great for me. I just mix it really well and thoroughly in the mixing cup. I don’t handle it at all (like kneading). I also like how quick it cures.
FYI: If you want a smooth pourable silicone for making cast molds use 100% silicone roof / RV coating which comes in 1 gallon cans at your local hardware store in the roofing section.
Mr. Eaton, do you have to mix the 1% silicone roof/RV coating with anything or just pour over the item you want to make a mold for? I have a larger item I want to make a mold for and this sounds like a great idea. Thanks for any information you can provide for me.
I've tried these methods and, after an even worse mess with the cornstarch than you got, I found a way to use it with a lot of success. Put you silicone into a plastic bag and add a small amount of cornstarch (maybe half a teaspoon for the amount of silicon you used) and knead it until mixed. Cut a corner of the bag and squeeze the mix out where you want it. The more cornstarch you use, the harder it sets. For faster, smoother setting, add a couple of drops of glycerine. You can also use just the glycerine, but it take longer to set. The dishsoap molds work, but don't hold up well. I hope this helps!
Also, it seems there are two things to look for on the silicone, for it to be 100% silicone and for it to mention something about acid on the curing agents.
@@CancunManny I know that when I buy silicone for this I am careful to buy Silicone Type 1. It has a strong smell of vinegar (the acid you mention) although I think it is actually ureic acid. Silicone Type 2 doesn’t have that strong vinegar smell. There is also a $3-4 a tube difference in price. I get my Silicone Type 1 on Amazon for about $4.50 a 10 oz. tube.
@@2degucitas thank you for that clarification. I remember now that I first encountered that smell decades ago when I entered a good friends photo lab. I thought there was something wrong about saying that smell was vinegar. Thank you again!
The cornstarch one is supposed to be stirred until it becomes firm and THEN use hands to knead it. Also, you are supposed to add acrylic paint because it has a water base which causes the correct silicone to harden, like the soapy water. If you have the wrong type of silicone (II) it is not quite going to work. Silicone l is the correct type. It smells like vinegar when curing. Burns the nose a bit.
I have had quite a bit of success with this method (number 3) and recommend. Stirring it until it starts to firm is a good point it has a work time that makes it less stick as time passes. Also you can dust hands and surfaces with the corn starch to like you wewd when making dough. I usually mix it, wait a few minutes and then start to work it in to a mold
I'd like to see if somebody could create a universal flashlight Barrel mount for any kind of gun. The part that clips onto the barrel could be c-shaped as well as the part that the flashlight slides into. Or I was thinking that other ones could maybe be cone-shaped whatever would create a tight fit. Do you have any thoughts about how I can go about this?
The best result I’ve had is the corn starch. However, sprinkle the starch onto your surface, then the caulk. Add a sprinkle of starch onto the caulk, and begins to fold it in. When it gets sticky, dust with starch. When you can handle it, it is ready. I tried mixing with alcohol, xylene, varsol, mineral oil. The mixes never set. Absolute failure, such as your too. So thanks for your input. Nice laughter brother. It still makes me roar. Warm regards from Canada, or is it Canader. Lol. Good-day, eh?!
I use the cornstarch one all the time and it works beautifully for me. Flexible and durable. I put cornstarch down first on the counterand then add silicon. I kneed it together adding cornstarch add needed as I go. Hopefully you have better luck!
I used baby powder, acrylic paint, baby oil and the silicone and my molds have lasted years. Use a tin lid to flatten the top of the molds before pressing your pieces in, this will make your moldings neater and flatter.
i had tried all of these methods, and others, prior to seeing this video. the mineral spirits/acetone can work as a pourable if you degas it in a vacuum chamber. the problem with it is that it will continue to offgas for a long time and ultimately this causes the mold to deform. the dish soap method works fine. be sure if you use this method to mix well and push out any air pockets. the oil works well if you dont add so much and so does the corn starch if, again, you dont add quite so much. it will be messy but works beautifully for a very tough mold. the corn starch method has a tendancy to dry very quickly and become diffucult to use but dries very strong. i occasionaly use the soap method still but most often i use the corn starch with some glycerin for a fast cure time and a more rugged mold. be careful to not over add the corn starch. a pointer is to use an wisk style mixer in a drill to mix it. cheers and good luck everyone
The cornstarch one is made like pasta. You make a mound of cornstarch, make a hollow in it, and add the silicon. Kneed it together, pulling the starch in until it is firm. Just like adding an egg to flour when making pasta. It works very well. Make sure you use the silicon that smells like vinegar, the other ones doesn’t work
This maybe a stupid question but...can you not just squeeze the silicone stuff over the thing you wanna make a cast of?? Silicone dries/cures to a rubbery consistency doesn't it?? I'm probably very wrong lol
That silicone caulk requires contact with air to cure. You could just squeeze caulk around that figure directly. A moistened finger could smooth each layer to pack it in and remove bubbles. I have done this myself so I know. You could craft glue the figure bottom to a sheet of plastic and put the caulk on the figure directly, either out of the tube or with the soap method.
@@notafan1275 Yes. A thin layer of soap or oil to be a release agent. I found out the hard way that silicone sticks to plaster if I don't use release agent. The object was ruined by trying to remove the silicone.
I have a question sometimes I make the corn search and silicone and it comes out smooth and sometimes it comes out crumbly what am I doing wrong and how to fix it
I have used mineral spirits to make pourable silicone multiple times and aside from the initial smell it works great for me! The idea is to thin the silicone just long enough to cast it, then the mineral spirits evaporate leaving the dried silicone. You have to make sure that your silicone is 100% silicone, and not a mixed caulk, or it won't work, and the smell does dissipate after a few days.
3 method is fine if you put in the same effort as the others: use a suitable container, start with a layer of cornstarch to prevent silicone from sticking to the bottom, pour the silicone on top and then add some more starch. Use a stick to start incorporating and then your hands. I tried it and it was a success from the first time. I think it's even better since the starch add volume to the final mass
Same it worked for me too I out down corn starch and then put the silicone on it. Cover it in cornstarch and make sure your hands/gloves are covered in corn starch. I just dabbed on it a bit and covered it again every time it would even slightly start to stick until it could take it into my hands like a puddy 🤷♀️ the more starch you add the harder it is and less stretchy and less makes it softer and more stretchy It's actually quite awesome to me because you can make really soft ones but also firm ones and it's cheap
Did all of the methods even pressure molds even if you get the spirit method to work in the end it shrink's the best I found is fort cover with a brush some silicone on the opject and then do some starch silicone
Thank you! I have a russian made pellet gun that is no longer imported to the u.s..i used the cornstarch method to mold a new magazine for it as parts are no longer available.....it came out beautiful , all the very small details came out great! Functions as well as the original!!!!
Use high temp red silicone, brush it over said part your going to cast, then once covered squirt in the rest and pressing it, it will cure fast and solid. No mixing with anything! plus you can pour low melt metals.
I wouldn't use acetone that's going to keep it from curing up properly... If you dilute it then use isopropanol it is more or less basic rubbing alcohol. Just make sure it's isopropanol and not denatured alcohol. It will work and let it cure properly because silicone has isopropanol in its formula, so it will evaporate out as part of the Cure without compromising the Integrity of the silicone... You can also use vinegar but I would suggest isopropanol. The vinegar acts like a curing agent and it might Kik it off a little too fast for you to get it poured out. Hopefully those things help
Method #3: I've used it, and it works very well, but you obviously can't go at it hammer-and-tongs like you did! :D I poured out about a cup of cornstarch onto a disposable (well, reusable and disposable) plate, then squeezed the silicone on top. I kneaded the cornstarch in, gradually and carefully, until I'd gotten a smooth, pliable dough. This has become my go-to method, and I've made a bunch of molds of antique lamp finials, antique salt and pepper shakers, and other fun old knick-knacks. :)
adding acrylic paint ..water based.. will cure really fast .. adding liquid watercolors from the art store will make it also nice color silicone but transparent depending on how much liquid watercolor(like ink) you added ...awesome if you cast around some string of LEDS!!... the semi transparent silicone... let cure.. turn on leds... tadaaaaaa. oeeee. pretty!
I've used the mineral spirits method. It worked, kinda. The interesting part is the mold shrinks over time. I made it almost a year and a half ago. More than 50% shrinkage in that time
How did you make it dry? I've also tried this and also had issues with it drying/curing slowly, or not at all. Seems like maybe it needs corn starch or water too? I don't mind the shrinkage, would be good to make mini models at double scale and let the mold shrink and cast in smaller form.
I don't know if this is any help to anyone . But we make gaskets for RC submarines out of this stuff . They are round about 4 or 5 inches in diameter and used as washes on the end caps of the water proof cylinder.
I have used building silicone to make moulds for sander fishing jigs, I get about 5 - 7 moulds out of one tube. The jigplastics is about 180 °c when I pour and the moulds hold up for 1000 of pourings. And when I have poured one I just drop the entire mould in a bucket of water.
I loved that you try all the methods I’m afraid of. Thanks! Also, I’ve heard that if you mix the 100% silicone with 100% acetone you can make runny silicone for 3D models.
The one with the corn starch you’re supposed to add a small amount of baby oil and acrylic paint and make a soft putty. Quickly put it into your mould and press your shapes into the mould. Keeping your gloves oiled with baby oil. You can also try the version where are you mix silicone caulking with acetone to make a pourable soft rubber mould.🥰
I'm assuming it's been said a few dozen times by now, but the third method (cornstarch) was just done wrong. Get a disposable container, put your silicone in (silicone 1), add a few drops of water or food coloring, mix with something you don't love and will be fine with throwing away. Once you've done that, put the silicone into a large (also disposable) bowl full of corn starch and continue coating it until it's not sticky... then kneed it and recoat with cornstarch. Repeat until it's not sticky and feels like playdough. It's a recipe... and the order is important. Still, fun vid and it shows how messy things can (and will) get.
The baby oil one will at least smell nice. With the cornstarch one you have to imagine you are kneading a loose bread dough with more and more flour until it doesn’t stick (yeahhh, right). The cool thing about the mineral spirit (Naphtha is the thinning solvent I have used. Don’t know if that is what you call mineral spirit) one is you can make it very runny so you can poor it. Add a little cornstarch and it will cure fast. Silicone cures by the absorption of water and the cornstarch provides the pathway for the water to migrate into the center.
thanks for letting me know that, no, I dont want to go through all that trouble. Thanks for the link to a sensibly priced silicone mold mixture! AND its clear. I use UV resin and need to replicate my favorite mold so that its clear enough for the UV to penetrate. Again, thank you!
Tip for anyone who uses mineral spirits WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE YOU TOUCH YOUR FACE OTHERWISE YOU COULD END UP GETTING A STYE. We use it to rinse machining oil off parts where i work, even after your hand has dried if you didnt wash it there is the risk of a stye.
I do a corn starch and baby oil mix (both in one not separately) whenever i need to make a quick mold of something. Its a bit better then the two separately that you ttried here but not really worth it in the long run unless you are in a rush to finish a project.
I've seen the corn starch method work quite well, but the trick is to add just enough corn starch that the silicon stops adhering to the gloves and not much more than that. There's a slight loss of detail due to the texture of the corn starch but the method does seem reasonable for quick small casting projects. The "Dawn" method is, from what I've seen, the best, but is quite stinky as the solvent is pulled out of the silicon. Mind you, the technique I'd seen before involved dish soap and hot water. Using cold water may help suppress the odor somewhat, but I'd suggest a well ventilated area just the same. I had never seen the other two methods tried before. I suspect they might work if the amount of stuff added is small.
Just FYI if you are going to thin it so it's able to be poured my suggestion would be to use isopropanol as isopropanol is a component that is in the formula for silicone sealant and it will not have an adverse reaction or keep the silicone from curing properly... Definitely stay away from other chemicals such as xylene and acetone and those types of things... Those things will break the silicone down and it will not cure properly... you can also use plain white vinegar but vinegar acts as a catalyst to accelerate the curing process and as a result it may work against you for time that you need to pour it out. Isopropanol is basically rubbing alcohol... do not use denatured alcohol it's completely different and will react
Silicone with mineral spirit is used to waterproof heavy cloth for tents, you are suppose to brush it on the cloth and then leave it out so that the mineral spirits can evaporate and then all you have left is the silicone. The mineral spirits makes it easier to apply the silicone on the cloth.
Hej i tried these and then went with the silicone and thin it down with mineral oil, turps. i coated the pieces , 1 with baby oil and 1 with vaseline and bothe came out stuck to the item. Do you have any tips as to waht will release it ? i dont have money for mold release spray so i am lost on what to do now. Thanx
I made a 2 part mold . Bottom and a top . Using soap and water. It was something. Made cardboard box base. 5x15, my subject I coated with soapy water so it would release and it did. Then the top I did couple days later. Soapy water as a releaser. Layed the top on. Couple hours later it was set. I had to work my fingers in to get it to separate. It did . Came a part where I wanted too.
Hello, so i have done the silicone and corn flour one, it worked really well, thou i did use washing up liquid on my gloves when mixing the two ingredients together, i cast shells and crystals, as i said this one worked really well for me.. thanks for the giggles and your raspberries
I have watched close to 60+ videos on this topic, and have to say this was no1 in my opinion. Well, except for the cornstarch debacle. So funny! I never laugh, but I spat tea across my keyboard. Thank you!! You laughing made me laugh too.🤣😂 I thought the baby oil one wasn't going to work and was an oily mess. Some videos show it with "good" results but the stop-and-start and editing makes me think it probably wasn't "good". Your video was just how I expected it to go. Your comments were also helpful, thanks to those who mentioned why adding paint was important. I actually saw one that was oil, cornstarch, and paint which was more than 50% of the mould ingredients and I can't see how that worked. Thank you again. I let all the ads run as I hope you get extra for that. 😁 So, I feel I have educated myself enough to give this a try.
Number 3 is what invitingly happens to me everytime I try to work flour into dough. It's a good thing I was making dense dumplings instead of light fluffy bread.
In the dish soap method, have you tried it again and any thoughts the thickest mold that could be made? I ask as the cost of mold supplies has really become pricey.
😂😂😂 You always make me laugh! I love your videos. Your reaction to #3 sticking to your gloves was so funny that I started laughing which caused me to start a coughing fit because I'm sick in bed. But it was worth it. Thank you! ❤❤❤
Hi Steve, I'm making harry potter badges and the problem is the dried sillicone is stuck to the badges. Do you know how I can remove it. Cheers From Australia
Great to see! I want to cast the headlight surrounds of my car. I wondered if the silicon with soapy water or cornstarch would (disasterly) stick to my car paint? Any tips? Cheers
Has anyone tried to count how many times it can be used such a mold? I would like to make some pieces of decorative brick for myself, not thicker than 2 cm. Can special RTV silicone for molds be the cheaper option for multiple use?
Try the thin mold again but after you thin it down add a bit of cornstarch into it. About 1/10 of the weight of the amount of silicone caulk... it is what is needed to make it cure.
Great video! How many years did it take attempt #4 to set Steve? You could have just painted the undiluted silicone on to Oswald in layers, painting the next layer before the ine underneath has set but is still tacky,, after about 3 layers, let it cure, then encase in plaster of paris so you can cast copies with no distirtion. I use straight 100% silicone to copy action figure headsvery easiky and it costs pennies instead of pounds, you get very accurate detail. Just remember to rub the part you are cooying with a release agent. Very thin coating of vaseline works, but wipe off any excess. Ive even used the silicone to mould action figure heads, then used a semi hard setting door frame sealant as the casting material (these figures were made for adult collectors, not for chikdren and were labelled up and sold as such) but they turned out very professional looking, they looked like they had been produced in a factory, not on my little work bench in my shed.
I have tried the soap and water one and it worked pretty good also when I did a min or so research lol I seen that you need to use the silicone that smells of vinegar so I tried it and the smelly silicone works a lot better than the non smells stuff.
Would like to see your take on a deeper more complex piece using caulk, in the states there is a non silicon caulk called big stretch wonder if that would be a good product to use, it stretches be about 600%
I have used the cornstarch method several times, and I find it works very well. You simply did it wrong. You are supposed to add a small amount of acrylic craft paint to it, not just to colour it, but to speed up the curing process. You are also supposed to mix a lot of the cornstarch into the silicone while it is still in the cup. This will make it much less sticky when you start kneading it. While I do wear gloves and frequently get sticky fingers, I have actually used my bare hands with the cornstarch method on occasion without having to remove goo from my hands afterwards. The mixture cures very quickly, often within 15 minutes(!). The molds are not crumbly like your's was. They are firm and hard like those little bouncey rubber balls I used to play with when I was a kid, and the detail they pick up is marvelous.
I’ll give it a try 👍🏻
Should I aim for 50/50 silicone/cornstarch?
Thank you for your guidance. I recently did one wrong too, so got to try again.
I agree. I use the cornstarch and silicone method all the time and it works great for me. I just mix it really well and thoroughly in the mixing cup. I don’t handle it at all (like kneading). I also like how quick it cures.
Did it work?
plus he got baby oil all over it. He should have changed gloves and covered work area
FYI: If you want a smooth pourable silicone for making cast molds use 100% silicone roof / RV coating which comes in 1 gallon cans at your local hardware store in the roofing section.
Mr. Eaton, do you have to mix the 1% silicone roof/RV coating with anything or just pour over the item you want to make a mold for? I have a larger item I want to make a mold for and this sounds like a great idea. Thanks for any information you can provide for me.
Do tell more.
Thank you because I don't have a silicone gun.
I wonder what the ratio would be 🤔
I've tried these methods and, after an even worse mess with the cornstarch than you got, I found a way to use it with a lot of success. Put you silicone into a plastic bag and add a small amount of cornstarch (maybe half a teaspoon for the amount of silicon you used) and knead it until mixed. Cut a corner of the bag and squeeze the mix out where you want it. The more cornstarch you use, the harder it sets. For faster, smoother setting, add a couple of drops of glycerine. You can also use just the glycerine, but it take longer to set. The dishsoap molds work, but don't hold up well. I hope this helps!
Also, it seems there are two things to look for on the silicone, for it to be 100% silicone and for it to mention something about acid on the curing agents.
@@CancunManny I know that when I buy silicone for this I am careful to buy Silicone Type 1. It has a strong smell of vinegar (the acid you mention) although I think it is actually ureic acid. Silicone Type 2 doesn’t have that strong vinegar smell. There is also a $3-4 a tube difference in price. I get my Silicone Type 1 on Amazon for about $4.50 a 10 oz. tube.
@@oddjobbobb
It's acetic acid, the acid in vinegar
@@2degucitas thank you for that clarification. I remember now that I first encountered that smell decades ago when I entered a good friends photo lab. I thought there was something wrong about saying that smell was vinegar. Thank you again!
Ni
He's adorable the cornstarch method had me dying!🤣 It's a beautiful thing when we can laugh at ourselves. I do it all the time. Thanks for sharing ❤️
You’re the FIRST person I’ve seen who said you had COLD water! Thank you!
The amount of failure you're saving me, you're a hero!
My thoughts exactly!
Learn from the mistakes of other because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself.
🤣😂😭
The cornstarch one is supposed to be stirred until it becomes firm and THEN use hands to knead it. Also, you are supposed to add acrylic paint because it has a water base which causes the correct silicone to harden, like the soapy water. If you have the wrong type of silicone (II) it is not quite going to work. Silicone l is the correct type. It smells like vinegar when curing. Burns the nose a bit.
Use a little bit of olive oil and add more cornstarch as you go along
@@marciamarcia7449You want food grade silicone in that case
Add food coloring first then corn starch mix till it is almost dry or not sticky.
Then use it fast in 20 minutes it's hard .
I have had quite a bit of success with this method (number 3) and recommend. Stirring it until it starts to firm is a good point it has a work time that makes it less stick as time passes. Also you can dust hands and surfaces with the corn starch to like you wewd when making dough. I usually mix it, wait a few minutes and then start to work it in to a mold
I had a laugh too when I first tried this method and it was even funnier because i decided to do WITHOUT gloves. What a great time that was!
Your laughter makes it all worthwhile. Brilliant that you did not cut this.
Your laugh when you did the corn flour made my day 🤣
I'd like to see if somebody could create a universal flashlight Barrel mount for any kind of gun.
The part that clips onto the barrel could be c-shaped as well as the part that the flashlight slides into.
Or I was thinking that other ones could maybe be cone-shaped whatever would create a tight fit. Do you have any thoughts about how I can go about this?
The best result I’ve had is the corn starch. However, sprinkle the starch onto your surface, then the caulk. Add a sprinkle of starch onto the caulk, and begins to fold it in. When it gets sticky, dust with starch. When you can handle it, it is ready. I tried mixing with alcohol, xylene, varsol, mineral oil. The mixes never set. Absolute failure, such as your too. So thanks for your input. Nice laughter brother. It still makes me roar. Warm regards from Canada, or is it Canader. Lol. Good-day, eh?!
I use the cornstarch one all the time and it works beautifully for me. Flexible and durable. I put cornstarch down first on the counterand then add silicon. I kneed it together adding cornstarch add needed as I go. Hopefully you have better luck!
I used baby powder, acrylic paint, baby oil and the silicone and my molds have lasted years. Use a tin lid to flatten the top of the molds before pressing your pieces in, this will make your moldings neater and flatter.
i had tried all of these methods, and others, prior to seeing this video. the mineral spirits/acetone can work as a pourable if you degas it in a vacuum chamber. the problem with it is that it will continue to offgas for a long time and ultimately this causes the mold to deform. the dish soap method works fine. be sure if you use this method to mix well and push out any air pockets. the oil works well if you dont add so much and so does the corn starch if, again, you dont add quite so much. it will be messy but works beautifully for a very tough mold. the corn starch method has a tendancy to dry very quickly and become diffucult to use but dries very strong. i occasionaly use the soap method still but most often i use the corn starch with some glycerin for a fast cure time and a more rugged mold. be careful to not over add the corn starch. a pointer is to use an wisk style mixer in a drill to mix it. cheers and good luck everyone
The cornstarch one is made like pasta. You make a mound of cornstarch, make a hollow in it, and add the silicon. Kneed it together, pulling the starch in until it is firm. Just like adding an egg to flour when making pasta. It works very well. Make sure you use the silicon that smells like vinegar, the other ones doesn’t work
Did the one with white spirits ever get hard enough to use? Please give an update on it. Thanks.🦋🦋🎶📽
This maybe a stupid question but...can you not just squeeze the silicone stuff over the thing you wanna make a cast of?? Silicone dries/cures to a rubbery consistency doesn't it?? I'm probably very wrong lol
I imagine air pockets being a issue
I've watched this enough to feel a personal connection and natural concern for Oswald at this point......😂😂😂 I sure how he's been rescued. ❤
For small things I use Sculpey clay and bake it. Comes out very detailed
sculpey used to make a flexible after-baking version. It was great for small short-run mold making. good for lightweight accesories as well.
That silicone caulk requires contact with air to cure. You could just squeeze caulk around that figure directly. A moistened finger could smooth each layer to pack it in and remove bubbles.
I have done this myself so I know. You could craft glue the figure bottom to a sheet of plastic and put the caulk on the figure directly, either out of the tube or with the soap method.
Thanks, you have answered the question I wanted to ask. Would it be a good idea to dip the figure in soapy water first for easier release?
@@notafan1275 Yes. A thin layer of soap or oil to be a release agent. I found out the hard way that silicone sticks to plaster if I don't use release agent. The object was ruined by trying to remove the silicone.
Just a thought, why not just use the silcone on it's own?
I have a question sometimes I make the corn search and silicone and it comes out smooth and sometimes it comes out crumbly what am I doing wrong and how to fix it
I have used mineral spirits to make pourable silicone multiple times and aside from the initial smell it works great for me! The idea is to thin the silicone just long enough to cast it, then the mineral spirits evaporate leaving the dried silicone. You have to make sure that your silicone is 100% silicone, and not a mixed caulk, or it won't work, and the smell does dissipate after a few days.
I had the same result as he did, and i used 100% silicone and acetone. Took weeks to cure
Can they be used for food? I mean freezing, not in the oven. Like chocolate figures? Which type would work ok?
Try using the soapy water mix up first then flatten out the silicone on the table, sprinkle the cornstarch and knead like bread.
Your laugh is infectious. Having said that, I tried method one & big success 🙌
Interesting and thanks. Might try one or more of these.
3 method is fine if you put in the same effort as the others: use a suitable container, start with a layer of cornstarch to prevent silicone from sticking to the bottom, pour the silicone on top and then add some more starch. Use a stick to start incorporating and then your hands. I tried it and it was a success from the first time. I think it's even better since the starch add volume to the final mass
Same it worked for me too
I out down corn starch and then put the silicone on it. Cover it in cornstarch and make sure your hands/gloves are covered in corn starch. I just dabbed on it a bit and covered it again every time it would even slightly start to stick until it could take it into my hands like a puddy 🤷♀️ the more starch you add the harder it is and less stretchy and less makes it softer and more stretchy
It's actually quite awesome to me because you can make really soft ones but also firm ones and it's cheap
Have you ever tried coating a piece in traditional two-part silicone to capture detail but then used a cheap silicone to bulk out the mold?
Did all of the methods even pressure molds even if you get the spirit method to work in the end it shrink's the best I found is fort cover with a brush some silicone on the opject and then do some starch silicone
I rewatched this and was completely entertained by the mess and the silicone sticking to the gloves 🧤. Been there done that mess! Lol 😝
Thank you! I have a russian made pellet gun that is no longer imported to the u.s..i used the cornstarch method to mold a new magazine for it as parts are no longer available.....it came out beautiful , all the very small details came out great! Functions as well as the original!!!!
Use high temp red silicone, brush it over said part your going to cast, then once covered squirt in the rest and pressing it, it will cure fast and solid. No mixing with anything! plus you can pour low melt metals.
I have seen the pourable done with acetone and silicone. I will try it today. Maybe I'll update - depending on how long it takes to cure.
I wouldn't use acetone that's going to keep it from curing up properly... If you dilute it then use isopropanol it is more or less basic rubbing alcohol. Just make sure it's isopropanol and not denatured alcohol. It will work and let it cure properly because silicone has isopropanol in its formula, so it will evaporate out as part of the Cure without compromising the Integrity of the silicone... You can also use vinegar but I would suggest isopropanol. The vinegar acts like a curing agent and it might Kik it off a little too fast for you to get it poured out. Hopefully those things help
@@rcombs253 Thank you for the information!
Method #3: I've used it, and it works very well, but you obviously can't go at it hammer-and-tongs like you did! :D
I poured out about a cup of cornstarch onto a disposable (well, reusable and disposable) plate, then squeezed the silicone on top. I kneaded the cornstarch in, gradually and carefully, until I'd gotten a smooth, pliable dough. This has become my go-to method, and I've made a bunch of molds of antique lamp finials, antique salt and pepper shakers, and other fun old knick-knacks. :)
adding acrylic paint ..water based.. will cure really fast .. adding liquid watercolors from the art store will make it also nice color silicone but transparent depending on how much liquid watercolor(like ink) you added ...awesome if you cast around some string of LEDS!!... the semi transparent silicone... let cure.. turn on leds... tadaaaaaa. oeeee. pretty!
Hilarious !!!! when you started laughing , you made me laugh! Ohh, I was in tears! Thanks!
Would one be able to paint the silicone on in layers and cure them under a light during each stage?
I've used the mineral spirits method. It worked, kinda. The interesting part is the mold shrinks over time. I made it almost a year and a half ago. More than 50% shrinkage in that time
How did you make it dry? I've also tried this and also had issues with it drying/curing slowly, or not at all. Seems like maybe it needs corn starch or water too? I don't mind the shrinkage, would be good to make mini models at double scale and let the mold shrink and cast in smaller form.
@@muklin i just waited about a week until it wasn't sticky anymore. If i try it again, I'm going to use a basking light to see if that cures it faster
I don't know if this is any help to anyone . But we make gaskets for RC submarines out of this stuff . They are round about 4 or 5 inches in diameter and used as washes on the end caps of the water proof cylinder.
BRILLIANT....ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT! 4mins 58 secs though!!🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂 cheers for your wonderful video. Xx
I have used building silicone to make moulds for sander fishing jigs, I get about 5 - 7 moulds out of one tube. The jigplastics is about 180 °c when I pour and the moulds hold up for 1000 of pourings. And when I have poured one I just drop the entire mould in a bucket of water.
I'm glad you did this as it saves us using a lot of silicone. I'm going to give the washing up liquid one a go.
Loved it, I snorted thru you giggling at the cornstarch:) Thank you for going through such a mess, That was fun and informative
thank you for saving me a lot of money because I didn’t waste my money on products to try to make these molds myself!❤❤
I saw a basic pourable using acetone as the thinning medium. The acetone vapes off quickly.
@Sir Scofferoff white spirits? Paint thinner or turpentine type liquid...white gasoline, napha?
I loved that you try all the methods I’m afraid of. Thanks! Also, I’ve heard that if you mix the 100% silicone with 100% acetone you can make runny silicone for 3D models.
I wonder if it would work using alcohol
The one with the corn starch you’re supposed to add a small amount of baby oil and acrylic paint and make a soft putty. Quickly put it into your mould and press your shapes into the mould. Keeping your gloves oiled with baby oil. You can also try the version where are you mix silicone caulking with acetone to make a pourable soft rubber mould.🥰
Does this release well and could you make a 3D mold with this mixture? Thank you for any advice you can help me with ;)
I'm assuming it's been said a few dozen times by now, but the third method (cornstarch) was just done wrong.
Get a disposable container, put your silicone in (silicone 1), add a few drops of water or food coloring, mix with something you don't love and will be fine with throwing away.
Once you've done that, put the silicone into a large (also disposable) bowl full of corn starch and continue coating it until it's not sticky... then kneed it and recoat with cornstarch. Repeat until it's not sticky and feels like playdough.
It's a recipe... and the order is important.
Still, fun vid and it shows how messy things can (and will) get.
When you started laughing, I just about spit out my tea! Love the video and tips!
The baby oil one will at least smell nice.
With the cornstarch one you have to imagine you are kneading a loose bread dough with more and more flour until it doesn’t stick (yeahhh, right).
The cool thing about the mineral spirit (Naphtha is the thinning solvent I have used. Don’t know if that is what you call mineral spirit) one is you can make it very runny so you can poor it. Add a little cornstarch and it will cure fast. Silicone cures by the absorption of water and the cornstarch provides the pathway for the water to migrate into the center.
thanks for letting me know that, no, I dont want to go through all that trouble. Thanks for the link to a sensibly priced silicone mold mixture! AND its clear. I use UV resin and need to replicate my favorite mold so that its clear enough for the UV to penetrate. Again, thank you!
Tip for anyone who uses mineral spirits WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE YOU TOUCH YOUR FACE OTHERWISE YOU COULD END UP GETTING A STYE. We use it to rinse machining oil off parts where i work, even after your hand has dried if you didnt wash it there is the risk of a stye.
I do a corn starch and baby oil mix (both in one not separately) whenever i need to make a quick mold of something. Its a bit better then the two separately that you ttried here but not really worth it in the long run unless you are in a rush to finish a project.
I've seen the corn starch method work quite well, but the trick is to add just enough corn starch that the silicon stops adhering to the gloves and not much more than that. There's a slight loss of detail due to the texture of the corn starch but the method does seem reasonable for quick small casting projects. The "Dawn" method is, from what I've seen, the best, but is quite stinky as the solvent is pulled out of the silicon. Mind you, the technique I'd seen before involved dish soap and hot water. Using cold water may help suppress the odor somewhat, but I'd suggest a well ventilated area just the same. I had never seen the other two methods tried before. I suspect they might work if the amount of stuff added is small.
Steve I think would be an excellent tv show for children’s craft as he’s fun 🤩
Ive heard of mixing silicone and dish soap. It takes a few days to dry but you can peel it off and have that mold
Just FYI if you are going to thin it so it's able to be poured my suggestion would be to use isopropanol as isopropanol is a component that is in the formula for silicone sealant and it will not have an adverse reaction or keep the silicone from curing properly... Definitely stay away from other chemicals such as xylene and acetone and those types of things... Those things will break the silicone down and it will not cure properly... you can also use plain white vinegar but vinegar acts as a catalyst to accelerate the curing process and as a result it may work against you for time that you need to pour it out. Isopropanol is basically rubbing alcohol... do not use denatured alcohol it's completely different and will react
I made a successful mould with the silicone and corn starch . I was Cargill on how much I added though. And mixed it lots.
Could this be squished around my sculpture aswell? Or would it not stick very well?
Silicone with mineral spirit is used to waterproof heavy cloth for tents, you are suppose to brush it on the cloth and then leave it out so that the mineral spirits can evaporate and then all you have left is the silicone. The mineral spirits makes it easier to apply the silicone on the cloth.
Hey nice video but is it okay if i use any kind of liquid soap?
Thankyouu. But rn Im trying ajax liquid soap. Still waiting for it to dry. Hope can use it multiple times..Wish me luck :)
Hej i tried these and then went with the silicone and thin it down with mineral oil, turps. i coated the pieces , 1 with baby oil and 1 with vaseline and bothe came out stuck to the item. Do you have any tips as to waht will release it ? i dont have money for mold release spray so i am lost on what to do now. Thanx
I’ve used the dish soap method tons and it’s my go to!!! Cheap and easy! 😊
I made a 2 part mold . Bottom and a top .
Using soap and water.
It was something.
Made cardboard box base.
5x15, my subject I coated with soapy water so it would release and it did.
Then the top I did couple days later. Soapy water as a releaser. Layed the top on. Couple hours later it was set. I had to work my fingers in to get it to separate.
It did . Came a part where I wanted too.
Hello, so i have done the silicone and corn flour one, it worked really well, thou i did use washing up liquid on my gloves when mixing the two ingredients together, i cast shells and crystals, as i said this one worked really well for me..
thanks for the giggles and your raspberries
I like the raspberry analysis. I think I am going to use it. lol
Hey great video . Would it resist heat from a molten lead casting
On the one with mineral spirits substitute the mineral spirits with naptha and add cornstarch to the concoction and it should work
Your laugh is contagious!
I have watched close to 60+ videos on this topic, and have to say this was no1 in my opinion. Well, except for the cornstarch debacle. So funny! I never laugh, but I spat tea across my keyboard. Thank you!! You laughing made me laugh too.🤣😂 I thought the baby oil one wasn't going to work and was an oily mess. Some videos show it with "good" results but the stop-and-start and editing makes me think it probably wasn't "good". Your video was just how I expected it to go. Your comments were also helpful, thanks to those who mentioned why adding paint was important. I actually saw one that was oil, cornstarch, and paint which was more than 50% of the mould ingredients and I can't see how that worked. Thank you again. I let all the ads run as I hope you get extra for that. 😁 So, I feel I have educated myself enough to give this a try.
can you ad color to the silicone while you mold it?
Number 3 is what invitingly happens to me everytime I try to work flour into dough.
It's a good thing I was making dense dumplings instead of light fluffy bread.
I'm glad to find out I'm not that only one that ends up with %75 of the dough stuck to my hands when I'm trying to make noodles.
In the dish soap method, have you tried it again and any thoughts the thickest mold that could be made? I ask as the cost of mold supplies has really become pricey.
😂😂😂
You always make me laugh! I love your videos. Your reaction to #3 sticking to your gloves was so funny that I started laughing which caused me to start a coughing fit because I'm sick in bed. But it was worth it. Thank you! ❤❤❤
Only just found you,and boy what a find. Thank you.
Hi Steve, I'm making harry potter badges and the problem is the dried sillicone is stuck to the badges. Do you know how I can remove it.
Cheers
From Australia
Lmaoo I lost it when you were laughing at the silicone sticking to your gloves 😂😂😂
Me too!
Can i use this to make prosthetic masks???
Too funny. Lol. Your suppose to mix the cornstarch in the cup until is more moldable. Thanks for the laugh. You made my day
The one with cornstarch was hilarious I can’t stop laughing.
Great to see!
I want to cast the headlight surrounds of my car.
I wondered if the silicon with soapy water or cornstarch would (disasterly) stick to my car paint?
Any tips?
Cheers
I love that u laughed about the cornstarch fail~~
Works ok we need liquid type silicone ¿??????
Quite a good thinner for silicone is Toluene
I've had good results using the cornstarch method, but a few drops baby oil to it. You seem to have fun with this
Omg you gave me a good chuckle with the cornstarch. I loved your response ❤️❤️
Like like like ... Love love love, laugh laugh laugh!!! Thank you for all of it.
so what is the link that shows how you made the mold containers
Has anyone tried to count how many times it can be used such a mold? I would like to make some pieces of decorative brick for myself, not thicker than 2 cm. Can special RTV silicone for molds be the cheaper option for multiple use?
Ha ha! Thank you for being the “guinea pig” with these experiments! Nicely done!
Try the thin mold again but after you thin it down add a bit of cornstarch into it. About 1/10 of the weight of the amount of silicone caulk... it is what is needed to make it cure.
I have not tried it myself but just saw this video ruclips.net/video/sIQkFVftDZU/видео.html
Great video! How many years did it take attempt #4 to set Steve? You could have just painted the undiluted silicone on to Oswald in layers, painting the next layer before the ine underneath has set but is still tacky,, after about 3 layers, let it cure, then encase in plaster of paris so you can cast copies with no distirtion. I use straight 100% silicone to copy action figure headsvery easiky and it costs pennies instead of pounds, you get very accurate detail. Just remember to rub the part you are cooying with a release agent. Very thin coating of vaseline works, but wipe off any excess. Ive even used the silicone to mould action figure heads, then used a semi hard setting door frame sealant as the casting material (these figures were made for adult collectors, not for chikdren and were labelled up and sold as such) but they turned out very professional looking, they looked like they had been produced in a factory, not on my little work bench in my shed.
I tried method 3 tonight before finding your videos. It was *hilarious* 🤣
I believe you can add acrylic paint, (just a bit) to the silicone to cure if more than 1/4 in thick.
I have tried the soap and water one and it worked pretty good also when I did a min or so research lol I seen that you need to use the silicone that smells of vinegar so I tried it and the smelly silicone works a lot better than the non smells stuff.
Number 3 with the corn starch was hilarious..l.
Who needs to hear “fail” when you can just hear “pffftthh!” instead? 😂 No translation needed. I subscribed just for that!
Would like to see your take on a deeper more complex piece using caulk, in the states there is a non silicon caulk called big stretch wonder if that would be a good product to use, it stretches be about 600%
I’ll stick with oyumaru, which is ridiculously easy to use and can easily be reformed over and over!