Silicone pulls moisture out of the air and moisture is what is needed for it to cure. Cornstarch also pulls out moisture from the air. By mixing the cornstarch in the silicone pulls in more moisture faster. The more cornstarch you use the faster the silicone cures. I have done the cornstarch method and used much more than here creating almost a clay consistency. This worked well for what I needed but it set completely in less than 10 minutes at about 1/8th inch thick so you have to work fast. I also made molds that was about 3/4 thick and was able to remove my piece from it in about 30-45 minutes. For those who want to know how I mixed it, I put a large pile of corn starch in a pan (1/2 the box) added the silicone on top and started working it like bread dough. When it gets enough cornstarch in it that it no longer sticks to clean dry hands is when I started to shape it.
Depending on the kind of silicone caulk you use, it can be cured with UV, or moisture/water, or heat, or cold, or glycol/glycerine. It depends which kind you buy and what additives they put in to help it cure. In my experiments, corn starch works on type 1 and type 2 of GEs 100% silicone, and it cures faster, which explains why so many people are doing it. The curing is not helped by kneading the silicone, which introduces water and soap into the silicone mix. It is not helped by the soap, which keeps it from clinging to your hands. Put it in a bucket of cold water to start the curing and clump and transfer it to your mold with as little handling as possible. Hope this helps for anyone having trouble with the soapy water method
@@jeffreytgilbert Given that the original video used a specific GE silicone, it seems like you're comments are blurring the instructions. Julie is exactly right about how cornstarch works to incorporate moisture containing particles within the silicone causing it to cure all at once instead of from the outside in. I think you are talking about different materials and the methods which work for those...which don't pertain to this video. Please correct me if I'm misreading you.
@@dchall8 the type 2 silicone was a fail across the board for me. I did end up going to home depot and scooping up type 1 and having successes. With the vaseline flap trick in mind, i tried using it on my hands instead of soap, but that was a failure. It may work during the curing, but it definitely does not keep things from sticking to the water bucket or your hands. I used all the techniques here and they worked super well. I patted thin layers on. I used ample amounts of dish soap without using too much. Coating my hands in soap didnt help much because it washes off as soon as your hands get in the water. I used cold water. They mostly cured in 30 minutes and the next 48 hours they were fully cured and gave off far less of an odor after washing them off. I didn’t knead the caulk at all for the soapy part. I let it hang out in the cold water for a few minutes then scooped it up and it was good to go. I really liked the technique of layering the fast curing corn starch mix on top of the slow curing dish soap mix. That was great.
I tried using xylene as thinner for pure silicone and made a bucket full of it. I was able to pour it like water. Have to do it in a well ventilated area or outdoors though. I have also used the thinned silicone as waterproofing and applied it with a roller.
Xylene as a thinner? I would avoid that stuff as it extremely nasty smelling and very caustic. .I use Mineral Spirits (the "no smell" kind ) or Naphtha to thin down Silicon and then add cornstarch to accelerate setting. You can thin it down to a pourable liquid as well. I mix in the cornstarch into the thinners 1st to then evenly mix into the silicon to avoid clumping.
Best tutorial on both methods! I’ve seen some people that do videos on this and told people to use the wrong caulk, next thing you know they disable comments! 🤦🏻♀️
I tried this a couple different ways, they were similar to yours but not as good. The first mold I put way to much corn starch and my mold dried heavy and hard. I made a Froot Loop mold, it worked but it was so hard, some of the wax Froot Loops came out good but it was to hard to get most of them out. Your way seems much better.. so I’m gonna give it a try! Thank you!
👍. Silicone is hydroscopic so it requires water to cure, not air. Humidity it cures faster and the longer it's exposed to water the harder it gets till it starts to break down. This is why boats do not use silicone for repairs.
Love this stuff. I've made molds with both methods. The corn starch one grew a pink Mold on it right away. I do refrigerate it. I have best luck with the dish soap one. The only problem I've ever had was. .if I just take pieces off a lump an put it back in the soapy water..it get hard very quickly. I usually just use a huge glop of the soapy solution silicone and squish it around and I'm goo to go!..I get good details. I want to make a mold of something that stands on a base but just not sure how to go about it. This video helps. Thank you ♡
Found this in my search for a way to copy a wood base molding profile. Dogs chewed moldings years ago and now it is time to repair them. Thinking if I make a mold for the wood filler it will give a better result than free hand sculpting to match adjoining molding. I’m going to use your cornstarch recipe. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing this video as well as your knowledge. I'm brand new to the idea of wanting to create a mold of something and have watched multiple videos on the topic and this was the best one that I've come across thus far. I am brand new to a painting art craft as well (I was hit by someone texting and driving, leaving me permanently disabled. Trying to find an outlet to focus on to distract me from the pain as well as fill in all the empty time and isolation) I have a 2 piece trinket box that I'd like to replicate. I think using these method, I'll be able to apply this to create a single (solid version) of the figurine, as well as taking apart the original trinket box (remove the top screwed on with a hinge) I should be able to unscrew the top, then cast a mold of the 2 separate pieces to allow me to make a trinket box where the top will just rest on the other portion (and/or will perhaps leave me the ability to adhere a small hinge)....anyway, point being.... I think I can do this, using your technique to make a mold so I can cast it using plaster so I can paint it using my new found painting technique or maybe even cast it using resin. Fingers crossed 😊
Hey, how did it turn out? You should show us. Start your own channel, “Learning to Craft for beginners”, or something like that, and get paid. Good luck!
@@SashasRevenge Well, unfortunately even though I still have full intentions to give this a try, I haven't set a block of time to aside to devote my attention to doing this, yet 😉. Between having to do yard work...that once took me a few hours to complete, now takes me multiple days to do with the addition of multiple days to physically recover...then it's time to do it all over again. Plus, I had out of state visitors that I had to get ready for, then once here, my time was taken up. But one day, some day..... I'll get to it and give it a try. I really want to make a mould of that trinket box that I can use because I'd like to give them as gifts if they turn out semi ok
@@SashasRevenge I'm working on an update for this video and will show the whole process. This was just an excerpt for students of my glass making classes, but I thought it would be nice to make it public.
@@HighDesertObservatory i truly look foward to watching a Full walk through so I have the step-by-step guidence for the day I actually gather up the courage and gumption to attempt such a project...and jump from the being a complete uneducated and inexperienced novice column to move my tick mark to the somewhat semi educated and experienced status column. 😁
Just started using resin and don't have mold I have this 2inc wood heart that I'm going to make key chains with them and was wondering how would I make a mold for it was watching you it nice to see there are helpful tips out here
I use Mineral Spirits or Naphtha to thin down Silicon and cornstarch to accelerate setting. You can thin it down to a pourable liquid. I mix in the cornstarch into the thinners 1st to then evenly mix into the silicon to avoid clumping. Someone posted using Xylene as a thinner, I would avoid that stuff as it extremely nasty and unnecessary.
I used 2 full containers like he has here and poured it into a plastic water bottle then plunged my Vaseline coated statue into the silicone and I squeezed the plastic all around, in hopes that I covered my statue fully… now, i let that sit outside over night, and then wrapped it in a heating pad on medium… I wish I had seen your video and tried your method. I am going to leave my experiment be for probably a week to make sure it is fully dried and cured before I try taking my statue out. My method is a total amateur experiment. I wanted to make a mold of this little detailed, vintage statue i have.
Wish I had watched this before trying to make my silicone molds two days ago, they are not completely dried, full of air bubbles, and not covering anything well. I did succeed in removing it without too much of the stupid paper cups staying attached (lesson learned!), and will cut it into small pieces to mix in with the rest of the unmixed expensive silicone to actually finish the first molds, but for the next ones I am definitely going for this method!
A note: Silicon uses moisture to set so you can mix in a little acrylic paint and mix , (if you can) and this will allow you to make a thick mold and cure completely through.
I have not tried this, but I've seen other videos where naptha was used to thin the silicone. What about, instead of using the soapy silicone as a thin layer first, instead you dipped the object into thinned silicone like you were making a long candle? Or maybe painted on. The silicone should dry quickly, fill all the details, and no bubbles. At least that's how it works in my head. And after a few dips in the thinned stuff, then start with either soapy or cornstarchy silicone to finish as you did in this elegant demonstration.
I had mixed results trying to thin the the material with naphtha. The mixture bubbled quite heavily. The main issue with your idea would be the waste. If you have an object, say an apple, you need to make enough of the mixture to completely submerge the apple to get an even coat. You could make a wide shallow basin of material, but you will still have waste and at that point you might as well just pour the mold... and in that case I would use 2 part silicone. It will be stronger, more durable and you won't be exposing yourself to the VOC's and odors from the naphtha.
By the time you buy these ingredients used to make your silicone and factor in time and labor, your cost per pound is actually more vs an off the shelf system like OOMOO 30.
I have a plaster of paris mold of a bike helmet. I need to make a silicone mold from it so i can make an acrylic poured mold of the helmet. Do i need a release agent to pull the silicone from the plaster of paris mold? Thanks
Oh yes, I know that vinegar smell that silicone gas. My dad was a window and door installer and used a lot of it and I remember smelling that when I would help him. It’s definitely the acetic acid, which is also in vinegar.
Very good tutorial...and your English is very good too. This is from far the best tutorial of how to do by yourself silicone molds. Questions please: 1. Does vinegar dilute 100% silicone or other methods to make it liquid; this means to poor it for making figurine molds. 2. Can we use this method to make figurines? Thank you very much. :)
I have not tried diluting the silicone with vinegar. Off the cuff, I don't think this would work. The acetic acid is a byproduct of the curing process and not a solvent. Other tutorials online have used Naptha as a solvent to make a pourable version. I had mixed success with this and need to do more testing. I think you could use this for figurines, however, I don't think the detail will be very high. I see this as a quick process for testing and simple forms. If I want high detail and a durable mold, I would use a platinum cure two part silicone from Smooth-on. It is a higher upfront cost, but the mold will last a long time and platinum cured silicone doesn't shrink so the miniatures will not deform over successive pours.
@highdesertobservatory have you ever use fingernail polish remover to thin the silicone and make it pourable? I saw someone do it on line, and tried it myself with no success.
@@MaineCoonPride - did you use a 100% acetone nail polish remover? NighthawkInLight’s channel has a video in making silicone caulk into a paintable sealant for making waterproof tarps, by thinning it with mineral spirits (also called paint thinner in the US. ) Might work for your purpose thinned that way? Good luck! It might take a long time to cure in much thicker layers than used as a paint, if you are trying to pour solid castings.
@@MaineCoonPride I haven't tried acetone or paint thinner. I did try naphtha. I'm not a huge fan of using these solvents and I didn't think the results were all that great.
Can the silicone & corn starch mold be placed directly onto untreated wood without damaging it? Or what should be used as a release agent in between? I
Yes it is for food stuff, but that's not the chemistry going on here. In this case, it is cornstarch's affinity to absorb moisture from the air which speeds up the cure time. 100% silicone needs moisture to cure. If you use no additives, then it will form a skin within a few minutes of hitting the air and slowly cure entirely as humidity penetrates into the silicone. If you incorporate cornstarch or talc or other moisture holding dusts, the moisture from the dust will release inside the silicone and it all cures at the same time.
@@dchall8 genius. I tried making custom molded rubber vibration isolation pads for my 81 Camaro radiator. I used permatex black rtv, blobed it in, then installed my radiator. 2 weeks later, was still gooey inside. Ruined it when I pulled it out. I was going to try "easy Mold, putty", but saw this video. Going to get 2 tubes of ge 100%, type 1 clear silicone and corn starch. Just saved $50
Great tutorial video. I want to create a mould to make face details on some egghead mannequins I have, copying from the one that does have a detailed face. How thick might I need to make it? As the face is curved, would I be better off pushing the face down into a tray of silicon-cornstarch putty. Do I need to put straight silicon on first?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
If you want finer details, I wouldn’t use the corn starch at first. I would use the method in the video. Start with thin layers against the surface and then build it up. If you want the shape to be the same every time you need the mold to be thick so it doesn’t deform while handling. It is a balance though. If you make it too thick it may make it difficult to remove the object.
I've never made a mold before. I have an old hockey helmet that I have taken apart in two pieces. Each half has holes in it for screws and general venting purposes. How would this work if trying to make a mold of say one of the halfs? Is there anything that needs to he done for the holes?
So I was going to try this but got put off by all the warning labels on the silicone caulk - it all has fungicides and other toxic chemicals in - does your one? Or is it possible to buy just pure silicone caulk?
How much does the silicone shrink? Some methods like using acetone to make the silicone pourable shrink 10-15% so you need to make the object 15% larger. Then the mold shrinks to the right size. Using this method I imagine there is only a little shrinkage. If you have a 3-4 month old mold, pour the object, and measure it against the original object.
Question, if you have an item attached to a wall that can’t be removed and you want to make a mold of it, can you use this technique without harming the item?
It depends on the object, but this should be fine. The biggest danger comes when you are cutting the mold open. If you aren't careful you can scratch or damage the original. If your object is relatively flat, like a relief wall decoration, you may not need to make a cut. Remember that the silicone is flexible, but it will still get stuck if there are deep undercuts (areas where an object curves in on itself). If the object has undercuts, I would fill those with clay to make sure the silicone can be easily removed.
I watched this as a replay, so I am not sure if you covered it, but will these molds work for resin casting? I hope so because this method will make it a ton easier to make custom molds.
Hola muy buenas y gracias por tu vídeo. Mi pregunta es la siguiente se podría dar una capa fina de silicona de platino o silicona de estaño para registrar los detalles y una vez curado dar capas sucesivas de silicona acética para darle grosor (?)
Is it then possible to make a solid round mould about 2 cm thick and press the item into the mould? If so how do you get the pice out and will the mould harden? Need cornstarch in it to? And then pretend its all good to go is it then possible to put polyclay inside the mould and is it possible to dry the clay figure inside the mould and e.g in a oven?!
@@johannah83 I think that in order to press poly clay into a form you may need a harder silicone than you will be able to achieve with this process, but I haven't tried that so maybe it would work. I would use the cornstarch to make a putty and then press it into a form, such as a lid, then press the original into the putty. I do not know about putting this type of silicon into the oven. Smooth-on Mold Max 30 is rated up to 400 degrees F. I don't have experience with poly clay, so I'm not sure if that is enough. Smooth-on also makes a high heat version that you can melt softer metals into.
What you want is something like "alumilite amazing mold putty" and the clay pops out of the mold easiest if you freeze it for a bit, pop it out, and then bake it.
Thanks for the tutorial, very concise, I’m looking forward to trying it, can I use rice flour? Also, what can I use to make the object in this silicone molds?
We normally use these molds to make wax models for lost wax casting, but you could also pour resin, plaster, hydrocal, cement... etc. Just don't use it as a chocolate or candy mold. It is not food safe.
Corn starch is a natural thickening agent try the add it to hit weather and it clumps into clear clumps but mix it thoroughly into cold water first and then add it to your hot water stiring quickly and you get a water consistency for eggdrop soup can't explain past that but maybe it will help you draw a conclusion to why it reacts the way it does with the silicon
I am having trouble finding info for acidic acid I only found in the warning section 'methanol and ammonia are release during curing' and it says 100% silicone. Is this not the right right one?
It should say acetic acid released during curing. 100% silicone should work. I would try a small test. Place a dollop in the soapy water, roll it into a ball and see if it cures.
@@HighDesertObservatorydid 2 trials and it did not cure, not even after 3 days. Tried it on a 100% clear silicone that had the same curing release and it's a no go. So if acidic acid aint no where on the bottle its silicone slush😄 Btw Thanks for the video & the reply.
I tried the soapy water method and it didn’t work. I used the cornstarch method, because I saw it on someone else’s channel, and they kneaded it with their hands. So, I did that, and boy, it was a huge mess on my hands! I like the plastic bag kneading method. I will do that next time. But, I still wonder why I couldn’t get the soapy method to work. Is there a particular kind of dish soap to use?
Iuse Palmolive, I have had bad luck with just any silicone. They have two types. Silicone 1, Silicone 2 one of them cures with Acetic acid (vinegar) and the other. Uses Ammonia. Use vinegar type which is food grade. Ammonia will not cure if you add soap to it.
Enjoyed watching this. I have question . I’m trying too make doll shoe soles too look like work boot . I was wondering how would construction actual metal/ plastic form to have pre silicone mold that I then use my hot glue gun too fill the mold . Sorry if this is lengthy..
Hello! Let me see if I understand. You want to take a pair of doll shoes and add material to make it look like a work boot. Then you want to make a silicone mold so that you can make multiples? Then you want to use hot glue as the material you cast with? Is that right? If so, I would first use oil-based clay or a two part epoxy clay (Magi-Sculpt for example) to reshape the doll shoe. Then you will make a silicone mold of this altered form. Then you can cast anything you like into that mold. Let me know if I characterized your question correctly.
I’ve been to ace and the depot, I’ve also searched online and I can’t find any silicone that cures with acetic acid. Can someone please give me a specific product? Maybe a link? Thank you
Does it matter if it’s “waterproof” 100% silicone? I tried it & all it did was stick to my hands. If it doesn’t matter, what did i do wrong to cause it to stick to my hands so bad? Thanks
Usually, if it is sticking there are a few reasons. 1. Not enough soap or you didn't fully cover the noodles with soapy water before gathering into a ball. If this is the case, only add a little silicone at a time to the water and coat your hands with soapy before touching the silicone. 2. If the silicone has any other additive like latex then it will be sticky. You want 100% silicone and also look for the phrase "cures with acetic acid," or "acetic acid involved in curing." I hope this helps.
Has anyone tried to count how many times it can be used such a mold? I would like to make some pieces of decorative brick for myself, not thicker than 2 cm. Can special RTV silicone for molds be the cheaper option for multiple use?
I have been using one mold for a few years. I can’t recall how many times I’ve poured the object, but it works fine. Always for best results use a professional grade silicone like a Smooth-on product, but this technique does great for general, relatively quick, small molds.
I want to make a set of 6 thin druzy molds that looks like Crystal to make the bottom of the coaster look Crystalle when it’s done …they’re so expensive I just wanna make my own but I don’t know what I can put it on to make it look like that beautiful diamond bottom? Any suggestions I was thinking of a sponge but how can I take it off the sponge later because it looks like it’s a sponge that creates the crystal look ?
I wouldn't use a sponge since the silicone might stick to the fine bits of the material. I'm having a hard time envisioning what the final object is. Is it a coaster with a rough bottom or is the texture just on the edge?
I'd like to see the result of this silicon mold and what was done with it? Do you have pictures of the end product, or is it just a copy of the original?
This video is just an excerpt from longer video on lost wax glass casting. In this instance, the mold was used to create a plaster core to create glass vessels. You can see the types of things we teach and make on our instagram @highdesertobservatory
I made some molds tonight for pillar candles, and wax melts, but the smell of the vinegar transferred, even after washing the molds. Does that wear off, eventually?
Yes, the vinegar smell dissipates after a few days. It only creates the acetic acid while it is curing. Once it is fully set, the smell should disappear.
As long as it's 100% silicone, like mentioned at the start, the brand should be irrelevant, because the material inside is identical. The different brands would mostly come down to the durability of the container it's in, and the method you're using to remove it from that container. And for what it's worth, the tube of silicone won't make much difference compared to a good quality caulking gun that can properly and reliably open the tubes. But making sure it is 100% silicone is the important part, the brand is not.
Suggestion please: I have a few serving pieces that look like hollow sculptures, a soup tureen that looks like a goose for example. They are made of a mix of metals including aluminum. I would like to line them with silicon. How can I accomplish that?
Are you planning to continue using the dish as a tureen? If so, you could maybe pour in a food grade silicone. If not, you could use this method to add a thin layer to the inside of the metal dish. Either way, the silicone will not stick to the metal and will become a kind of insert. It really depends on the reason why you want to coat the dish in silicone.
Ive seen a few videos like this and they all say it has to be Dawn soap because it cuts grease. I didn't hear you mention a brand. Does it really matter?
Another question is if I try to make my own crystal bottom insert to go in a coaster mould will this silicone come out of that mold because it’s silicone It’s self? Another words can I use a silicone mold to make the Druzy insert?
Silicone will stick to silicone. If you are making a mold of a silicone object you need to use a release. I prefer paste wax and petroleum jelly. There are also mold release sprays, but be sure to follow the directions. Spray, brush, spray again.
Having made the DIY silicone mould: would you make a video and show us how yr product will turn out: I have never seen anybody make a mould and then take the next step put tthe clay into the mould and product a finished item. All videos only make the mould:
If the ceramic piece is glazed, this should work. If it is terracotta or another form of unglazed ceramic, I would cover it with some sort of release. paste wax or vaseline works well.
Thank you for sharing this info on a video. 😃Makes it waaaay easier to SEE than just HEAR.
I’m someone who learns far better by watching.
Yes I appreciate lecture and lab
Silicone pulls moisture out of the air and moisture is what is needed for it to cure. Cornstarch also pulls out moisture from the air. By mixing the cornstarch in the silicone pulls in more moisture faster. The more cornstarch you use the faster the silicone cures. I have done the cornstarch method and used much more than here creating almost a clay consistency. This worked well for what I needed but it set completely in less than 10 minutes at about 1/8th inch thick so you have to work fast. I also made molds that was about 3/4 thick and was able to remove my piece from it in about 30-45 minutes. For those who want to know how I mixed it, I put a large pile of corn starch in a pan (1/2 the box) added the silicone on top and started working it like bread dough. When it gets enough cornstarch in it that it no longer sticks to clean dry hands is when I started to shape it.
Thanks for the info and tip
Thanks for sharing 😀
Depending on the kind of silicone caulk you use, it can be cured with UV, or moisture/water, or heat, or cold, or glycol/glycerine. It depends which kind you buy and what additives they put in to help it cure. In my experiments, corn starch works on type 1 and type 2 of GEs 100% silicone, and it cures faster, which explains why so many people are doing it. The curing is not helped by kneading the silicone, which introduces water and soap into the silicone mix. It is not helped by the soap, which keeps it from clinging to your hands. Put it in a bucket of cold water to start the curing and clump and transfer it to your mold with as little handling as possible. Hope this helps for anyone having trouble with the soapy water method
@@jeffreytgilbert Given that the original video used a specific GE silicone, it seems like you're comments are blurring the instructions. Julie is exactly right about how cornstarch works to incorporate moisture containing particles within the silicone causing it to cure all at once instead of from the outside in. I think you are talking about different materials and the methods which work for those...which don't pertain to this video. Please correct me if I'm misreading you.
@@dchall8 the type 2 silicone was a fail across the board for me. I did end up going to home depot and scooping up type 1 and having successes. With the vaseline flap trick in mind, i tried using it on my hands instead of soap, but that was a failure. It may work during the curing, but it definitely does not keep things from sticking to the water bucket or your hands.
I used all the techniques here and they worked super well. I patted thin layers on. I used ample amounts of dish soap without using too much. Coating my hands in soap didnt help much because it washes off as soon as your hands get in the water. I used cold water. They mostly cured in 30 minutes and the next 48 hours they were fully cured and gave off far less of an odor after washing them off.
I didn’t knead the caulk at all for the soapy part. I let it hang out in the cold water for a few minutes then scooped it up and it was good to go. I really liked the technique of layering the fast curing corn starch mix on top of the slow curing dish soap mix. That was great.
BEST molds tutorial I've seen as if yet! Thanks so much
Thanks for the feedback! We are still trying to finish more videos, it is just slow going.
This video was extremely helpful and detailed!!! The best one ive seen yet and I now feel confident in trying out my method using this stuff!
Best video I’ve watched so far! Extremely helpful and informative. I’m extremely grateful. Thank you! ❤❤❤
I tried using xylene as thinner for pure silicone and made a bucket full of it. I was able to pour it like water. Have to do it in a well ventilated area or outdoors though.
I have also used the thinned silicone as waterproofing and applied it with a roller.
Xylene as a thinner? I would avoid that stuff as it extremely nasty smelling and very caustic. .I use Mineral Spirits (the "no smell" kind ) or Naphtha to thin down Silicon and then add cornstarch to accelerate setting. You can thin it down to a pourable liquid as well.
I mix in the cornstarch into the thinners 1st to then evenly mix into the silicon to avoid clumping.
@@xpump876 Lol people use it for all kinds of legal adjacent kitchen chemistry....
Could you test it's heat resistance and let me know if it's still tough against heat
Best tutorial on both methods! I’ve seen some people that do videos on this and told people to use the wrong caulk, next thing you know they disable comments! 🤦🏻♀️
I tried this a couple different ways, they were similar to yours but not as good. The first mold I put way to much corn starch and my mold dried heavy and hard. I made a Froot Loop mold, it worked but it was so hard, some of the wax Froot Loops came out good but it was to hard to get most of them out. Your way seems much better.. so I’m gonna give it a try! Thank you!
👍. Silicone is hydroscopic so it requires water to cure, not air. Humidity it cures faster and the longer it's exposed to water the harder it gets till it starts to break down. This is why boats do not use silicone for repairs.
Great tutorial. Love the flap idea. Great information. Thank you
Great teacher. Thank you
Well demonstrated and very clear understanding step by step procedure. Thank you very much. Wud like to watch more of your video
Love this stuff. I've made molds with both methods. The corn starch one grew a pink
Mold on it right away. I do refrigerate it. I have best luck with the dish soap one.
The only problem I've ever had was. .if I just take pieces off a lump an put it back in the soapy water..it get hard very quickly. I usually just use a huge glop of the soapy solution silicone and squish it around and I'm goo to go!..I get good details. I want to make a mold of something that stands on a base but just not sure how to go about it. This video helps.
Thank you ♡
"I'm goo to go." Good one. 😆
Thanks! I really want to try this for candle molds. If you have anymore tips, I'd greatly appreciate it!
This I one of the best tutorials on mold making
You are first person I have seen do layering. Seems to make more sense for drying.
Found this in my search for a way to copy a wood base molding profile. Dogs chewed moldings years ago and now it is time to repair them. Thinking if I make a mold for the wood filler it will give a better result than free hand sculpting to match adjoining molding. I’m going to use your cornstarch recipe. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing this video as well as your knowledge. I'm brand new to the idea of wanting to create a mold of something and have watched multiple videos on the topic and this was the best one that I've come across thus far.
I am brand new to a painting art craft as well (I was hit by someone texting and driving, leaving me permanently disabled. Trying to find an outlet to focus on to distract me from the pain as well as fill in all the empty time and isolation) I have a 2 piece trinket box that I'd like to replicate. I think using these method, I'll be able to apply this to create a single (solid version) of the figurine, as well as taking apart the original trinket box (remove the top screwed on with a hinge) I should be able to unscrew the top, then cast a mold of the 2 separate pieces to allow me to make a trinket box where the top will just rest on the other portion (and/or will perhaps leave me the ability to adhere a small hinge)....anyway, point being.... I think I can do this, using your technique to make a mold so I can cast it using plaster so I can paint it using my new found painting technique or maybe even cast it using resin.
Fingers crossed 😊
Good luck. I hope it turns out.
Hey, how did it turn out? You should show us. Start your own channel, “Learning to Craft for beginners”, or something like that, and get paid. Good luck!
@@SashasRevenge Well, unfortunately even though I still have full intentions to give this a try, I haven't set a block of time to aside to devote my attention to doing this, yet 😉. Between having to do yard work...that once took me a few hours to complete, now takes me multiple days to do with the addition of multiple days to physically recover...then it's time to do it all over again. Plus, I had out of state visitors that I had to get ready for, then once here, my time was taken up. But one day, some day..... I'll get to it and give it a try. I really want to make a mould of that trinket box that I can use because I'd like to give them as gifts if they turn out semi ok
@@SashasRevenge I'm working on an update for this video and will show the whole process. This was just an excerpt for students of my glass making classes, but I thought it would be nice to make it public.
@@HighDesertObservatory i truly look foward to watching a Full walk through so I have the step-by-step guidence for the day I actually gather up the courage and gumption to attempt such a project...and jump from the being a complete uneducated and inexperienced novice column to move my tick mark to the somewhat semi educated and experienced status column. 😁
I would like to see the next step of making something using the mold
Cool beanz I am gonna use this method often from now on. Thank you.
ordinary baby wipes cleans your hands easily after working with silicone
Just started using resin and don't have mold I have this 2inc wood heart that I'm going to make key chains with them and was wondering how would I make a mold for it was watching you it nice to see there are helpful tips out here
Then you already have your mold
I use Mineral Spirits or Naphtha to thin down Silicon and cornstarch to accelerate setting.
You can thin it down to a pourable liquid.
I mix in the cornstarch into the thinners 1st to then evenly mix into the silicon to avoid clumping.
Someone posted using Xylene as a thinner, I would avoid that stuff as it extremely nasty and unnecessary.
This video's got me all fired up! Thank you!
I used 2 full containers like he has here and poured it into a plastic water bottle then plunged my Vaseline coated statue into the silicone and I squeezed the plastic all around, in hopes that I covered my statue fully… now, i let that sit outside over night, and then wrapped it in a heating pad on medium… I wish I had seen your video and tried your method. I am going to leave my experiment be for probably a week to make sure it is fully dried and cured before I try taking my statue out. My method is a total amateur experiment. I wanted to make a mold of this little detailed, vintage statue i have.
Did it work??
Wish I had watched this before trying to make my silicone molds two days ago, they are not completely dried, full of air bubbles, and not covering anything well. I did succeed in removing it without too much of the stupid paper cups staying attached (lesson learned!), and will cut it into small pieces to mix in with the rest of the unmixed expensive silicone to actually finish the first molds, but for the next ones I am definitely going for this method!
That was so informative. Thank you very much.
Best video I've found good work
A note: Silicon uses moisture to set so you can mix in a little acrylic paint and mix , (if you can) and this will allow you to make a thick mold and cure completely through.
Thanx a lot 😊
So you are saying just mix silicon and acrylic paint and you can make a mould? Or follow the video steps just add paint?
wow! so much usefull to the point information in this video! Thank you!
clear silicon is the strongest, the white/black/brown are weaker as the pigment doesnt add strength but reduces the amount of real silicon in the mix.
Thanks, I was wondering about this.
I have not tried this, but I've seen other videos where naptha was used to thin the silicone. What about, instead of using the soapy silicone as a thin layer first, instead you dipped the object into thinned silicone like you were making a long candle? Or maybe painted on. The silicone should dry quickly, fill all the details, and no bubbles. At least that's how it works in my head. And after a few dips in the thinned stuff, then start with either soapy or cornstarchy silicone to finish as you did in this elegant demonstration.
I had mixed results trying to thin the the material with naphtha. The mixture bubbled quite heavily. The main issue with your idea would be the waste. If you have an object, say an apple, you need to make enough of the mixture to completely submerge the apple to get an even coat. You could make a wide shallow basin of material, but you will still have waste and at that point you might as well just pour the mold... and in that case I would use 2 part silicone. It will be stronger, more durable and you won't be exposing yourself to the VOC's and odors from the naphtha.
Thankyou!!! Great teacher!
Glad it was helpful!
Would it be possible to make a long oxygen hose out of clear silicone? Really wondering
So informative and helpful. Thank you!
You are so welcome!
By the time you buy these ingredients used to make your silicone and factor in time and labor, your cost per pound is actually more vs an off the shelf system like OOMOO 30.
I have a plaster of paris mold of a bike helmet. I need to make a silicone mold from it so i can make an acrylic poured mold of the helmet. Do i need a release agent to pull the silicone from the plaster of paris mold?
Thanks
Oh yes, I know that vinegar smell that silicone gas. My dad was a window and door installer and used a lot of it and I remember smelling that when I would help him. It’s definitely the acetic acid, which is also in vinegar.
Very good tutorial...and your English is very good too. This is from far the best tutorial of how to do by yourself silicone molds. Questions please:
1. Does vinegar dilute 100% silicone or other methods to make it liquid; this means to poor it for making figurine molds.
2. Can we use this method to make figurines?
Thank you very much. :)
I have not tried diluting the silicone with vinegar. Off the cuff, I don't think this would work. The acetic acid is a byproduct of the curing process and not a solvent. Other tutorials online have used Naptha as a solvent to make a pourable version. I had mixed success with this and need to do more testing. I think you could use this for figurines, however, I don't think the detail will be very high. I see this as a quick process for testing and simple forms. If I want high detail and a durable mold, I would use a platinum cure two part silicone from Smooth-on. It is a higher upfront cost, but the mold will last a long time and platinum cured silicone doesn't shrink so the miniatures will not deform over successive pours.
@highdesertobservatory have you ever use fingernail polish remover to thin the silicone and make it pourable? I saw someone do it on line, and tried it myself with no success.
@@MaineCoonPride - did you use a 100% acetone nail polish remover?
NighthawkInLight’s channel has a video in making silicone caulk into a paintable sealant for making waterproof tarps, by thinning it with mineral spirits (also called paint thinner in the US. ) Might work for your purpose thinned that way? Good luck!
It might take a long time to cure in much thicker layers than used as a paint, if you are trying to pour solid castings.
@@MaineCoonPride I haven't tried acetone or paint thinner. I did try naphtha. I'm not a huge fan of using these solvents and I didn't think the results were all that great.
@@orcoastgreenman I will try that. The weather is still good enough to experiment with it outdoors.
great video...have learnt this method before years ago, but got some valuable new tips...thank you
I'm glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the knowledge you shared. I have been wanting to learn how to do this .
Great tutorial !!!!
Can the silicone & corn starch mold be placed directly onto untreated wood without damaging it? Or what should be used as a release agent in between? I
It's easier to mix in a pot stir in the corn flour till a dough then hand knead it till not sticky, doing it in a bag is way much harder
Thanks for the tip. We usually use the bag to keep the cornstarch from going everywhere.do you have any issues with the silicone sticking to the pot?
Corn starch is a thickening agent, ppl use it in rues and tons of other things to help thicken.
Yes it is for food stuff, but that's not the chemistry going on here. In this case, it is cornstarch's affinity to absorb moisture from the air which speeds up the cure time. 100% silicone needs moisture to cure. If you use no additives, then it will form a skin within a few minutes of hitting the air and slowly cure entirely as humidity penetrates into the silicone. If you incorporate cornstarch or talc or other moisture holding dusts, the moisture from the dust will release inside the silicone and it all cures at the same time.
@@dchall8 genius. I tried making custom molded rubber vibration isolation pads for my 81 Camaro radiator. I used permatex black rtv, blobed it in, then installed my radiator. 2 weeks later, was still gooey inside. Ruined it when I pulled it out.
I was going to try "easy Mold, putty", but saw this video. Going to get 2 tubes of ge 100%, type 1 clear silicone and corn starch. Just saved $50
Great tutorial video. I want to create a mould to make face details on some egghead mannequins I have, copying from the one that does have a detailed face. How thick might I need to make it? As the face is curved, would I be better off pushing the face down into a tray of silicon-cornstarch putty. Do I need to put straight silicon on first?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Noted about finer details with straight silicon
If you want finer details, I wouldn’t use the corn starch at first. I would use the method in the video. Start with thin layers against the surface and then build it up. If you want the shape to be the same every time you need the mold to be thick so it doesn’t deform while handling. It is a balance though. If you make it too thick it may make it difficult to remove the object.
Can you use that on a clear plastic item ?
At 15:05 mins you comment about the vinegar smell,. Did you add vinegar at any point, ?.
Thom in Scotland.
I've never made a mold before. I have an old hockey helmet that I have taken apart in two pieces. Each half has holes in it for screws and general venting purposes. How would this work if trying to make a mold of say one of the halfs? Is there anything that needs to he done for the holes?
So I was going to try this but got put off by all the warning labels on the silicone caulk - it all has fungicides and other toxic chemicals in - does your one? Or is it possible to buy just pure silicone caulk?
How much does the silicone shrink? Some methods like using acetone to make the silicone pourable shrink 10-15% so you need to make the object 15% larger. Then the mold shrinks to the right size. Using this method I imagine there is only a little shrinkage. If you have a 3-4 month old mold, pour the object, and measure it against the original object.
thank u very much for the knowledges you share
Question, if you have an item attached to a wall that can’t be removed and you want to make a mold of it, can you use this technique without harming the item?
It depends on the object, but this should be fine. The biggest danger comes when you are cutting the mold open. If you aren't careful you can scratch or damage the original. If your object is relatively flat, like a relief wall decoration, you may not need to make a cut. Remember that the silicone is flexible, but it will still get stuck if there are deep undercuts (areas where an object curves in on itself). If the object has undercuts, I would fill those with clay to make sure the silicone can be easily removed.
I watched this as a replay, so I am not sure if you covered it, but will these molds work for resin casting? I hope so because this method will make it a ton easier to make custom molds.
Yes, this will work on resin.
What can I powder the inside of the glass container or whatever? I'm trying to use as a mold.
What do you recommend as a diy to make a arm and hand mold. I want to make a clear resin hand mold.
Could i use the mixture to make molds to put clay in? Ty
Wow! I'll do it! Thanks so much!😊
Question: The water for both methods shown here ~ warm or cold?
Great video! Thanks.
Ahhh I see , so this is how you make your DIY but plugs !.
Guess your search is over? Hehe
I'm having problems finding corn starch . Only one small box at Walmart. Tried past year and only 5 small boxes . Other stores the same issue .
All my silicone mixed with starch seems to shrink a lot in two weeks. It loses shape and size.
Well blow me... I had no idea the silicone gun opened the tubes..
🙌🏻💕🤣💖💕💕💕💕💕
Me either 😂😂😅
Not all do, and the cutter usually isn't that sharp.
Hola muy buenas y gracias por tu vídeo. Mi pregunta es la siguiente se podría dar una capa fina de silicona de platino o silicona de estaño para registrar los detalles y una vez curado dar capas sucesivas de silicona acética para darle grosor (?)
I have not tried this, but I would imagine that the layers would not stick together.
I'm wanting to make doll house plates and bits, would this work, I'll be using polma clay
Yes, this would work.
Is it then possible to make a solid round mould about 2 cm thick and press the item into the mould? If so how do you get the pice out and will the mould harden? Need cornstarch in it to? And then pretend its all good to go is it then possible to put polyclay inside the mould and is it possible to dry the clay figure inside the mould and e.g in a oven?!
@@johannah83 I think that in order to press poly clay into a form you may need a harder silicone than you will be able to achieve with this process, but I haven't tried that so maybe it would work.
I would use the cornstarch to make a putty and then press it into a form, such as a lid, then press the original into the putty.
I do not know about putting this type of silicon into the oven. Smooth-on Mold Max 30 is rated up to 400 degrees F. I don't have experience with poly clay, so I'm not sure if that is enough. Smooth-on also makes a high heat version that you can melt softer metals into.
What you want is something like "alumilite amazing mold putty" and the clay pops out of the mold easiest if you freeze it for a bit, pop it out, and then bake it.
Would you recommend this method for casting a drawer pull?
Yes, that would be quite simple. What material will you be casting?
Hello, I was wondering if when making the locking mechanism if you could cut in a zigzag pattern to help lock it? Or would that not work well
Yes, you can cut in a zigzag. You just need to make sure the seam area is wide enough to accommodate the cuts.
Thanks for the tutorial, very concise, I’m looking forward to trying it, can I use rice flour? Also, what can I use to make the object in this silicone molds?
We normally use these molds to make wax models for lost wax casting, but you could also pour resin, plaster, hydrocal, cement... etc. Just don't use it as a chocolate or candy mold. It is not food safe.
Corn starch is a natural thickening agent try the add it to hit weather and it clumps into clear clumps but mix it thoroughly into cold water first and then add it to your hot water stiring quickly and you get a water consistency for eggdrop soup can't explain past that but maybe it will help you draw a conclusion to why it reacts the way it does with the silicon
Hot water* sorry my keyboard is a little caddy wompus
Thank u sir for sharing this nice idea...🙏🏼👏🏼
So what is that object? I just till half of it so far , I guess I’ll find out?
I am having trouble finding info for acidic acid I only found in the warning section 'methanol and ammonia are release during curing' and it says 100% silicone.
Is this not the right right one?
It should say acetic acid released during curing. 100% silicone should work. I would try a small test. Place a dollop in the soapy water, roll it into a ball and see if it cures.
@@HighDesertObservatorydid 2 trials and it did not cure, not even after 3 days. Tried it on a 100% clear silicone that had the same curing release and it's a no go. So if acidic acid aint no where on the bottle its silicone slush😄
Btw Thanks for the video & the reply.
Its acetic acid not acidic acid lol
@@marioncaffroy7045 👏🏼🤪 Indeed it is.📝🚔
I tried the soapy water method and it didn’t work. I used the cornstarch method, because I saw it on someone else’s channel, and they kneaded it with their hands. So, I did that, and boy, it was a huge mess on my hands! I like the plastic bag kneading method. I will do that next time. But, I still wonder why I couldn’t get the soapy method to work. Is there a particular kind of dish soap to use?
Iuse Palmolive, I have had bad luck with just any silicone. They have two types. Silicone 1, Silicone 2 one of them cures with Acetic acid (vinegar) and the other. Uses Ammonia. Use vinegar type which is food grade. Ammonia will not cure if you add soap to it.
Enjoyed watching this. I have question . I’m trying too make doll shoe soles too look like work boot . I was wondering how would construction actual metal/ plastic form to have pre silicone mold that I then use my hot glue gun too fill the mold . Sorry if this is lengthy..
Hello! Let me see if I understand. You want to take a pair of doll shoes and add material to make it look like a work boot. Then you want to make a silicone mold so that you can make multiples? Then you want to use hot glue as the material you cast with? Is that right? If so, I would first use oil-based clay or a two part epoxy clay (Magi-Sculpt for example) to reshape the doll shoe. Then you will make a silicone mold of this altered form. Then you can cast anything you like into that mold. Let me know if I characterized your question correctly.
I’ve been to ace and the depot, I’ve also searched online and I can’t find any silicone that cures with acetic acid. Can someone please give me a specific product? Maybe a link? Thank you
Where can I set my product down while the silicone cures that it won't stick to?
Does it matter if it’s “waterproof” 100% silicone? I tried it & all it did was stick to my hands. If it doesn’t matter, what did i do wrong to cause it to stick to my hands so bad? Thanks
Usually, if it is sticking there are a few reasons. 1. Not enough soap or you didn't fully cover the noodles with soapy water before gathering into a ball. If this is the case, only add a little silicone at a time to the water and coat your hands with soapy before touching the silicone. 2. If the silicone has any other additive like latex then it will be sticky. You want 100% silicone and also look for the phrase "cures with acetic acid," or "acetic acid involved in curing." I hope this helps.
Can you add onto an already dried mold to thicken it up?
Yes, as long as it is relatively clean.
Has anyone tried to count how many times it can be used such a mold? I would like to make some pieces of decorative brick for myself, not thicker than 2 cm. Can special RTV silicone for molds be the cheaper option for multiple use?
I have been using one mold for a few years. I can’t recall how many times I’ve poured the object, but it works fine. Always for best results use a professional grade silicone like a Smooth-on product, but this technique does great for general, relatively quick, small molds.
I want to make a set of 6 thin druzy molds that looks like Crystal to make the bottom of the coaster look Crystalle when it’s done …they’re so expensive I just wanna make my own but I don’t know what I can put it on to make it look like that beautiful diamond bottom? Any suggestions I was thinking of a sponge but how can I take it off the sponge later because it looks like it’s a sponge that creates the crystal look ?
I wouldn't use a sponge since the silicone might stick to the fine bits of the material. I'm having a hard time envisioning what the final object is. Is it a coaster with a rough bottom or is the texture just on the edge?
Do you think it would be possible to make dice
Can I bake my polymer clay in the mold or do I have to remove the clay before baking?
Can this be used for epoxy resin?
Yes.
Yes you can!
Awesome! I can’t wait to try this!
Please let me know how I will make Small Car model Mould And cust Models with what metrials
I'd like to see the result of this silicon mold and what was done with it? Do you have pictures of the end product, or is it just a copy of the original?
This video is just an excerpt from longer video on lost wax glass casting. In this instance, the mold was used to create a plaster core to create glass vessels. You can see the types of things we teach and make on our instagram @highdesertobservatory
I made some molds tonight for pillar candles, and wax melts, but the smell of the vinegar transferred, even after washing the molds. Does that wear off, eventually?
Yes, the vinegar smell dissipates after a few days. It only creates the acetic acid while it is curing. Once it is fully set, the smell should disappear.
@@HighDesertObservatory thank you so much!!!! I was about to head over to Amazon to buy the mold kit, but I’ll wait it out!
Yes, yes very well done indeed. Very emotional!!
Can you make a big bowl mould
Is there any specific kind of tube silicone you recommend for mold taking or just any yube can be used?
As long as it's 100% silicone, like mentioned at the start, the brand should be irrelevant, because the material inside is identical. The different brands would mostly come down to the durability of the container it's in, and the method you're using to remove it from that container. And for what it's worth, the tube of silicone won't make much difference compared to a good quality caulking gun that can properly and reliably open the tubes. But making sure it is 100% silicone is the important part, the brand is not.
Can I use for chocolate?
Can you usevthese diy molds for resin casting?
Yes
Yes!
Can the silicone mold be put in the oven?
No, this type of silicone cannot go in the oven. There are professional grade silicone products that are heat resistant.
I wander if it can work on clay sculptures?
Yes
Question..... Can Sugar Soap be used instead of dishwashing liquid?
Suggestion please: I have a few serving pieces that look like hollow sculptures, a soup tureen that looks like a goose for example. They are made of a mix of metals including aluminum. I would like to line them with silicon. How can I accomplish that?
Are you planning to continue using the dish as a tureen? If so, you could maybe pour in a food grade silicone. If not, you could use this method to add a thin layer to the inside of the metal dish. Either way, the silicone will not stick to the metal and will become a kind of insert. It really depends on the reason why you want to coat the dish in silicone.
Ive seen a few videos like this and they all say it has to be Dawn soap because it cuts grease. I didn't hear you mention a brand. Does it really matter?
In my experience, it doesn't matter.
@@HighDesertObservatory thanks.
Does this method only work with butplugs
Another question is if I try to make my own crystal bottom insert to go in a coaster mould will this silicone come out of that mold because it’s silicone It’s self? Another words can I use a silicone mold to make the Druzy insert?
Silicone will stick to silicone. If you are making a mold of a silicone object you need to use a release. I prefer paste wax and petroleum jelly. There are also mold release sprays, but be sure to follow the directions. Spray, brush, spray again.
Can I use your technique on a plasticine sculpture? And would the universal mood release work on plasticine ?
Yes, you can use this technique on plasticine. You don't need a release. The silicone won't stick to clay.
Having made the DIY silicone mould: would you make a video and show us how yr product will turn out:
I have never seen anybody make a
mould and then take the next step put tthe clay
into the mould and product a finished item.
All videos only make the mould:
Can you use it on something ceramic
If the ceramic piece is glazed, this should work. If it is terracotta or another form of unglazed ceramic, I would cover it with some sort of release. paste wax or vaseline works well.