I was watching a pro do a 5th wheel & the first thing he did was squirt some water from a spray bottle onto the Rv surface before he hit it with his polisher. I was watching another pro who stated 'Actually, anything will do just as long as it lubricates the surface'. Hunph. !
Ohh also I found the VERY BEST waterspot remover and it’s inexpensive. It’s called Technician’s Choice 3 in 1 surface clarifier. Mix it 2:1 and wash your substrate with it. Can’t believe how well it works at removing all mineral deposits
@@riderescue your welcome. They also make the IMO best ceramic spray sealant on the market as well. It’s called Technician’s Choice Ceramic Detail Spray. It’s yellow. It’s very sun friendly with no streaking and just works and holds up like a dream.
Is there a wax or anything you reccomend applying after using the compound to keep the nice finish? My motorhome is in dire need of some elbow grease just like your trailer was. Thanks!
I like to protect with a paste wax like Turtle wax. The paste wax may leave a white residue on cracked vinyl and plastic though so you may want to use a wax like Meguiar's non yellowing wax. The thicker wax lasts all winter then I spray clean and spray wax combo when I clean for summer.
I just picked up a 36ft 5th wheel last week. She is in good shape and only 4yrs old but i want to do a little buff work on the back wall. Ill be going over it as well. Going to be a ton of work. Thanks for your inspiration
everyone has there own method. In my years in the collision business i found it works best to hold the pad flat, you get a lot more cutting surface. also spend the $15 on the tool to clean up the pad, using a scraping wears the pads out faster.
I have the same model and year Keystone Bullet Premier! With the same issue! I thought I did a good job last year buffing and polishing but it's oxidized again this year because it is out in the elements year round here in Virginia. My decals are in bad shape on the front black fiberglass cap, just not sure how I am going to get up to the clean the cap especially towards the top center portion, I need scaffolding I guess!
That front cap is difficult to clean and protect. The front frame and tanks make it even harder to work around. I have an A frame ladder that can go over the tanks but then it is unstable to lean sideways on.
My 2002 white color 31' Fleetwood Class A has most of the clear coat gone or flaking off of what's left. What do you suggest I use to remove the few places of old clear coat before I tackle wash, compound and wax of this monster? What did you use to repair decals? Several of mine are cracked on one side.
Sadly, there is not much that can be done once the clear coat starts to flake. The only fix I know of is to sand and repaint the clear. As for the cracked decals, there is not much that can be done to fix those either. I have used paint to fill and hide the cracks but it's just a temporary fix and color matching is very difficult. Decals can be removed for a clean look or there are new decals for some models.
About to tackle my father-in-laws Micro-Minnie this coming week that is red on the sides and heavy oxidized. Thanks for the tips and for making this informative video. Keeping it clean...
I use an open end wrench and I will use both sides conditioning of the pad. The ranch will be big something about 17 to 19 mm or5/8-3/4 at the body shop they have a tool that is like spurs only a good one will last a while on cleaning a buffer pad 5 AM
Maybe you know your buffer but for new guys and gals out there.. do NOT hold it at an angle like that. Gelcoat heats up fast and you will burn it. Been there
Excellent point. Yes, I have made rub marks from getting the surface too hot as well. Lots of pad on the surface and not out on the edge of the pad can prevent the dreaded burn marks. Also, keep the buffer moving, keep a slow speed and don't let the pad get too dry and hot. Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Turtle Wax has really stepped up their quality on their products. Checkout their new professional line. It’s called Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions. I’m a full time detailer and I’d put their products up against any other company now. Completely reinvented themselves. You did a great job. I’d recommend washing your pad more often. When there is that much oxidation it really fills up your pad quickly and diminishes the cutting ability, but you do t need any advice. Great work & love your channel
Really good content.i thank you for sharing that we can use turtle wax rubbing compound because I'm working on my buddy's rv but almost out of compund.i am using meguirs rv one step but still have half the rv to do.im almost out of the one step and was worried because I don't have 30 dollars to go buy another bottle.but I do have a brand new turtle wax rubbing compound thou.thank you
Just learned that after buffing this off you can use ZEP floor polish to keep it looking good. Takes a few coats, so don't panic when the first is streaky
Fortunately my front cap was in great shape. One of the vinyl stripes was faded and cracked just a bit so I got some touch up paint and brushed it on a small area and that fixed it. I've seen some of these front caps that are horribly faded and there is not much that can be done but to strip and replace the vinyl stripes. Sometimes the clear coat goes bad and they look whiteish and flake off. Not much can be done to polish them back up when they get that bad. With those fiberglass caps, some will need to be repainted and striped.
I’ve got the chalky oxidation on my trailer, and now I know what to do! Thanks 😊
Wonderful. Glad I could help!
I was watching a pro do a 5th wheel & the first thing he did was squirt some
water from a spray bottle onto the Rv surface before he hit it with his polisher.
I was watching another pro who stated 'Actually, anything will do just as long
as it lubricates the surface'. Hunph.
!
I would not ‘clean’ it on the concrete…what are you adding to the pad that will scratch your surfaces?
Great point. The pad can pick up something that will scratch.
Ohh also I found the VERY BEST waterspot remover and it’s inexpensive. It’s called Technician’s Choice 3 in 1 surface clarifier. Mix it 2:1 and wash your substrate with it. Can’t believe how well it works at removing all mineral deposits
I have heard of this product. Thank you for the tips. Much appreciated.
@@riderescue your welcome. They also make the IMO best ceramic spray sealant on the market as well. It’s called Technician’s Choice Ceramic Detail Spray. It’s yellow. It’s very sun friendly with no streaking and just works and holds up like a dream.
Is there a wax or anything you reccomend applying after using the compound to keep the nice finish? My motorhome is in dire need of some elbow grease just like your trailer was. Thanks!
I like to protect with a paste wax like Turtle wax. The paste wax may leave a white residue on cracked vinyl and plastic though so you may want to use a wax like Meguiar's non yellowing wax. The thicker wax lasts all winter then I spray clean and spray wax combo when I clean for summer.
I just picked up a 36ft 5th wheel last week. She is in good shape and only 4yrs old but i want to do a little buff work on the back wall. Ill be going over it as well. Going to be a ton of work. Thanks for your inspiration
You are welcome. Have fun getting the done work done. One step at a time.
everyone has there own method. In my years in the collision business i found it works best to hold the pad flat, you get a lot more cutting surface. also spend the $15 on the tool to clean up the pad, using a scraping wears the pads out faster.
Great tips. Thanks for sharing!
I've buffed my 33ft rv a couple times and I dred it. It's a lot of work. I use the 3m yellow bottle compound and wool pad.
This trailer is 22 foot and it kicked my butt. Hats off to you for doing it a couple times.
Man I'm going to do my 36' tt. In a couple months......Thanks for the information
I have the same model and year Keystone Bullet Premier! With the same issue! I thought I did a good job last year buffing and polishing but it's oxidized again this year because it is out in the elements year round here in Virginia. My decals are in bad shape on the front black fiberglass cap, just not sure how I am going to get up to the clean the cap especially towards the top center portion, I need scaffolding I guess!
That front cap is difficult to clean and protect. The front frame and tanks make it even harder to work around. I have an A frame ladder that can go over the tanks but then it is unstable to lean sideways on.
My 2002 white color 31' Fleetwood Class A has most of the clear coat gone or flaking off of what's left. What do you suggest I use to remove the few places of old clear coat before I tackle wash, compound and wax of this monster? What did you use to repair decals? Several of mine are cracked on one side.
Sadly, there is not much that can be done once the clear coat starts to flake. The only fix I know of is to sand and repaint the clear. As for the cracked decals, there is not much that can be done to fix those either. I have used paint to fill and hide the cracks but it's just a temporary fix and color matching is very difficult. Decals can be removed for a clean look or there are new decals for some models.
About to tackle my father-in-laws Micro-Minnie this coming week that is red on the sides and heavy oxidized. Thanks for the tips and for making this informative video. Keeping it clean...
Good luck!
Nice job..
Looks nice, thanks for the video
Your welcome. Thanks for watching!
No, No. The shiny shadow from the handle shows you how far you
have to polish to restore the shine back to factory. So, it is in fact
an asset.
!
I use an open end wrench and I will use both sides conditioning of the pad. The ranch will be big something about 17 to 19 mm or5/8-3/4 at the body shop they have a tool that is like spurs only a good one will last a while on cleaning a buffer pad 5 AM
Blue foam pad from Harbor Freight gives same results and is easier to work with
I tried the blue pad but this was so heavily oxidized the blue pad wore down really fast.
Maybe you know your buffer but for new guys and gals out there.. do NOT hold it at an angle like that. Gelcoat heats up fast and you will burn it. Been there
Excellent point. Yes, I have made rub marks from getting the surface too hot as well. Lots of pad on the surface and not out on the edge of the pad can prevent the dreaded burn marks. Also, keep the buffer moving, keep a slow speed and don't let the pad get too dry and hot. Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
And 1200 rpm is high enough for buffing
Never clean the pad with the tool on the side of the wheel spinning toward you.
Turtle Wax has really stepped up their quality on their products. Checkout their new professional line. It’s called Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions. I’m a full time detailer and I’d put their products up against any other company now. Completely reinvented themselves. You did a great job. I’d recommend washing your pad more often. When there is that much oxidation it really fills up your pad quickly and diminishes the cutting ability, but you do t need any advice. Great work & love your channel
Thanks for the info on the new Turtle Wax products. I'll try them out.
Can you use the wool pad wet once after you rinse it? Or wait for it to dry?
I like to keep the wool pad damp'ish. Turn the buffer up to high and spin out the water and it is all good.
the oxidation can also be removed with acetone
Really good content.i thank you for sharing that we can use turtle wax rubbing compound because I'm working on my buddy's rv but almost out of compund.i am using meguirs rv one step but still have half the rv to do.im almost out of the one step and was worried because I don't have 30 dollars to go buy another bottle.but I do have a brand new turtle wax rubbing compound thou.thank you
Glad to help
Just learned that after buffing this off you can use ZEP floor polish to keep it looking good. Takes a few coats, so don't panic when the first is streaky
Good tip! Thanks
Have you done the front cap?? I can’t get the oxidation off
Fortunately my front cap was in great shape. One of the vinyl stripes was faded and cracked just a bit so I got some touch up paint and brushed it on a small area and that fixed it. I've seen some of these front caps that are horribly faded and there is not much that can be done but to strip and replace the vinyl stripes. Sometimes the clear coat goes bad and they look whiteish and flake off. Not much can be done to polish them back up when they get that bad. With those fiberglass caps, some will need to be repainted and striped.
Looks great!
You did swirl it buffing it dry ?!?
What compound did you use?
Clean Cut Rubbing Compound by Turtle Wax
À quel endroit peut-on trouver cette crème
Too much overkill