I hv a similar setup but with a blower stage 3 cam & D1X Procharger & upgraded to gen 2 alluminator block on E85 also hv a ton of weight reduction & from 4,000 rpm on up this setup PULLS HARD 😎
If your goal is purely horsepower you'd be better of slapping a blower and a tune on it (most people). If you want all the NA power, don't care about about bottom end, and want to rev to the moon, you can definitely take this path.
Another thing is a max effort na setup can be alot faster than people realize especially with weight reduction and the driver mod. Also boosting one correctly with all the supporting mods is significantly more money than a cammed cj setup. Also this setup has potential to be close or even pull on simple blower setups meaning like just slap a blower on a stock car and run 91 octane making 600-650 wheel I could see this setup keeping right up with a setup like that despite the power difference. It isn't just about peak. This setup carries power out alot better and doesn't drop off as much and it increases average power significantly which is what makes a car faster. I can see doing it either way. Boost will give you higher ceiling but you're spending more money. It's all in what you want.
@@midnight347 Boost also benefits from weight and driver in terms of the car going faster. There are many levels of boosting a coyote. I was referring to your typical "street" set up of an aftermarket/dealer installed supercharger. In that sense all you need is the blower kit, which may or may not come with injectors and pump, and a tune. The added benefit here is there is no loss in drivability on the street. Until you see boost its a stock coyote. Trying to reach your typical boosted coyote HP range NA is a little more involved than just the parts, it takes more effort/knowledge then a glorified manifold swap as with a blower and comes with more tradeoffs which is why most people opt for boost. Not only do you have to worry about clearance issues in some mustang applications with the CJ manifold, which requires an expensive dual bore throttle body, camming the coyote requires getting into the engine and invariably compromises (or even eliminates) the VVT, which hurts drivability and bottom end torque on the street the more cam you throw into this thing. So, yes, some blower kits may cost more upfront than a manifold, tb, and cams but in a sense you are spending the extra money in exchange for time since you don't need to pull the accessories and timing cover to swap cams which can be somewhat involved in some mustangs. (bit of a sidenote, but as someone who has swapped cams and messed around with degreeing a Coyote with vvt eliminators I wish someone would come up with a timing cover with access to the primary chain tensioners without removing the cover.) Again, yes, either way is valid, it just depends on what one's goals are and what they're willing to spend to get it.
@@jamesweed8553 nice, yea I would say build the motor on the gen 1's. I made 470 on this build. It was really fun, wouldnt do anything different. I didnt really want to build the motor in it. But you cant go wrong either way.
@@jamesweed8553 depends on how much power u want to make u really don’t need to build the bottom end on these cars. They can handle 700whp easily and you’ll be happy and even if u want more just get a gen 2 short block they can handle 850whp easily
@EGPerfomance Do you recommend the same setup for a S197 thats Auto was really looking into getting the stage 3 cams cj setup oil pump gears Crank sprocket am I missing any other support mods necessary
i fucked up getting the stage 2 cam. i thought 3 would be really choppy. i was very wrong, now i wanna swap but soooo expensive lol cant do the work myself.
No cam is gonna be really choppy without either a cam lope tune or locking out your vct. Coyotes have been out over 10 years and people STILL don't understand what makes them not chop lol
What’s up bro, love the car sad you sold, but what was everything you had done to the car I wanna build my s197 like yours bro 🙏 if you can give me a parts list bro I would really appreciate you thanks in advance bro 🙏
You would be giving up the variable cam timing i believe. Not sure why you would want to get rid of that but people do it so they can get the chop. Not a great move in my opinion.
No coyote cams chop unless you do a cam tune OR lock out vct. Otherwise it's not gonna chop even with aftermarket cams at least not very much. It's the vct that stops it from chopping but it's also the vct that allows you to do a cam lope tune which is what I would do. Vct helps torque lot which is needed on na setups imo. If it's an all out race car it don't matter delete the vct. If it's a street car I'd keep dct and do a cam lope tune for the chop even with aftermarket cams.
@@midnight347 if you’re not planning on a turbo set up Yes , some do blower cams instead , if they plan on supercharging or nitrous they love blower cams vs NA,
Both are solid but if you want to utilize the cams to their maximum potential (which is In the higher rpm range) you need the cobra jet. If your going to go without cams, the 18 mani and boss mani both tune very similar and make similar numbers.
@ARMAN2FAST it's at least as good if not better. It looks pretty good too. I wouldn't do anything other than a cj if I had cams. A ported boss with port matched 90mm tbody opening and 90mm tbody can perform pretty good but by the time you do all that you could have just went with a cj.
High rpm use was the main reason they went with the mt82 in the coyote cars. The trans is fine at high rpm its the clutch and the shifter that suck once you fortify it the mt82 is actually not a bad trans. It unfairly gets blame for high rpm lockout when that's the clutch.
How come you didn’t go with modular head shop cams instead of comp? Just wondering because I’m looking to do cams myself. I know they suggest lockouts for mhs
The stage 3 comps are very proven and thats what lund racing recommends. Havent taken any look at mhs cams for the 5.0. If its your daily driver, i wouldnt delete the phasers or do lockout plates.
Not 100% sure cause I rarely used 93 pump gas with the cams. You can look to see a 13-14 mpg average when you do this. When your doing these mods, you dont really look at the mps's.
If your talking boosted 5.0 then sure but i wouldnt say any 10 psi setup. Some peoples setups are trash. This was also a daily driver. Its a gen 1 so it probably would cost more to build the motor and get the supercharger. I wouldnt risk having a stock bottom end on this car. Especially since it was a daily. But if i could do it over, i would. If i could do whatever i wanted, i would boost the 2013 boss 302 platform.
Any 10 psi boosted setup is gonna cost more money too if you do it right and not skimp on shit. It's all relative. Also it would keep up alot more than you think it ain't just about peak.
A cammed cj car is significantly faster than just a typical bolt on car. Even a fbo 18 manifold car would get wrecked. A cammed cj setup is actually pretty fast. It's not as fast as most boosted setups but it's not as far off as you think ecsp for your dollar. You can do a cammed cj setup for like 4k or something and before you say it no you can't boost one (correctly) for 4k. After you do the supporting mods and stuff it's gonna be a decent bit more on basically any boosted setup. For the money this isn't a bad way to go it's also a good setup for a road race car that is gonna sew 30+ minute thrashing sessions where weight balance and no heat soak matters more than max peak power. I am all about boosted setups too but I can see going either way depending on what you want. A cammed cj setup is absolutely worth it it'll make you way faster than typical bolt on 5.0s.
I didnt do anything to the heads. I’m not sure i understand your question. The stage 3 comp cams are the best for the cobra jet manifold if you want to rev it to 8k rpms. Makes power all the way to 8k and then it starts to fall off after. Hands down the best setup for max effort NA.
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There are a lot of reasons to like NA. Drive a supercharged setup and see just how much heat builds up under the hood.
I hv a similar setup but with a blower stage 3 cam & D1X Procharger & upgraded to gen 2 alluminator block on E85 also hv a ton of weight reduction & from 4,000 rpm on up this setup PULLS HARD 😎
This setup + headers and no cats. Perfection n/a
Love it! Just ordered All the stuff I can’t wait to have this setup.
If your goal is purely horsepower you'd be better of slapping a blower and a tune on it (most people). If you want all the NA power, don't care about about bottom end, and want to rev to the moon, you can definitely take this path.
Another thing is a max effort na setup can be alot faster than people realize especially with weight reduction and the driver mod.
Also boosting one correctly with all the supporting mods is significantly more money than a cammed cj setup.
Also this setup has potential to be close or even pull on simple blower setups meaning like just slap a blower on a stock car and run 91 octane making 600-650 wheel I could see this setup keeping right up with a setup like that despite the power difference. It isn't just about peak. This setup carries power out alot better and doesn't drop off as much and it increases average power significantly which is what makes a car faster. I can see doing it either way. Boost will give you higher ceiling but you're spending more money. It's all in what you want.
@@midnight347 Boost also benefits from weight and driver in terms of the car going faster.
There are many levels of boosting a coyote. I was referring to your typical "street" set up of an aftermarket/dealer installed supercharger. In that sense all you need is the blower kit, which may or may not come with injectors and pump, and a tune. The added benefit here is there is no loss in drivability on the street. Until you see boost its a stock coyote.
Trying to reach your typical boosted coyote HP range NA is a little more involved than just the parts, it takes more effort/knowledge then a glorified manifold swap as with a blower and comes with more tradeoffs which is why most people opt for boost. Not only do you have to worry about clearance issues in some mustang applications with the CJ manifold, which requires an expensive dual bore throttle body, camming the coyote requires getting into the engine and invariably compromises (or even eliminates) the VVT, which hurts drivability and bottom end torque on the street the more cam you throw into this thing.
So, yes, some blower kits may cost more upfront than a manifold, tb, and cams but in a sense you are spending the extra money in exchange for time since you don't need to pull the accessories and timing cover to swap cams which can be somewhat involved in some mustangs. (bit of a sidenote, but as someone who has swapped cams and messed around with degreeing a Coyote with vvt eliminators I wish someone would come up with a timing cover with access to the primary chain tensioners without removing the cover.)
Again, yes, either way is valid, it just depends on what one's goals are and what they're willing to spend to get it.
Great video Ford power forever baby keep on pulling the knot out of them bow ties
THinking about doing this setup this winter. You ever get this thing dyno'd before you sold it ?
Highly contemplating this setup over a procharger. Or possibly this setup first, then add a procharger if possible
Just really depends what you want to do. If you are planning on boosting. I would build the bottom end and get a fuel system.
@@EGPerformance if I went full on, I’d probably build the whole motor, top and bottom. What kind of dyno numbers were you getting on this setup?
@@jamesweed8553 nice, yea I would say build the motor on the gen 1's. I made 470 on this build. It was really fun, wouldnt do anything different. I didnt really want to build the motor in it. But you cant go wrong either way.
@@jamesweed8553 depends on how much power u want to make u really don’t need to build the bottom end on these cars. They can handle 700whp easily and you’ll be happy and even if u want more just get a gen 2 short block they can handle 850whp easily
“You can’t really tell from the idle either” the car: mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm 👀
Is it the 373 gears making that whining noise when you was cruising? My car makes a similar noise
@EGPerfomance Do you recommend the same setup for a S197 thats Auto was really looking into getting the stage 3 cams cj setup oil pump gears Crank sprocket am I missing any other support mods necessary
Sorry your getting or got rid of it trust me when I say
"You will regret it!" Thank you for the advice I plan on doing the same.
What gears were in the car. Love it.
Considering this for my boss 302.
Ive always said if I could do it again, i would do this setup on a boss 302.
@@EGPerformance it's a shame these cars are cursed with such a horrible transmission.
Its good until it goes lol. Yea i agree.
What does it dyno at
Does the cobra jet work with an auto? Looking at getting a 5.0 at one of the dealerships in the town over and definitely wanna mod it
Yes it works with the auto, i would just do some research and see what you can rev your car up to with the auto after a tune
@@EGPerformance does your car have the coyote tick? And if it did or does what is the best way to fix it
No i never had any issue with engine tick. That was more so the 18+ mustang 5.0’s.
Great video! At what rpm does the power band start with the cobra jet setup? 4k through 8k? 🇺🇸
I would say around 4500rpm. 2nd gear 40 roll is where this car shines
@@EGPerformance awesome thanks 😊
i fucked up getting the stage 2 cam. i thought 3 would be really choppy. i was very wrong, now i wanna swap but soooo expensive lol cant do the work myself.
Its all good, you still get some good gains with a stage 2 cam.
No cam is gonna be really choppy without either a cam lope tune or locking out your vct. Coyotes have been out over 10 years and people STILL don't understand what makes them not chop lol
Would you recommend getting aftermarket injectors with this setup
All your gonna need is 47lb injectors. You might benefit from a BAP just a little but i didnt have one.
What tranny u running stock ? No stall converter
Have a MT82
Was thinking bout stage 3 cams. Can you do the swap in a garage
If you have al the required tools and know how, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to
How’s it do on Digs in Mexico obviously lol ?
Pretty solid as well.
There’s nothing like a Ford. You should keep your pony. What’s the difference between the cobra jet you have and the 429 or 428 cobra jet.
Well just the manifold carries the name. Its a after market manifold made for max effort NA setups.
What’s up bro, love the car sad you sold, but what was everything you had done to the car I wanna build my s197 like yours bro 🙏 if you can give me a parts list bro I would really appreciate you thanks in advance bro 🙏
Did you upgrade your valve springs? When you added cams I been hearing about you can get valve float without upgrading them
Nope i didnt add any springs. These are a nsr cam. No Springs Required.
You shouldn't have to worry about valve float unless you're spinning it up above 8000 rpm I wouldn't think.
So what is the transmission?
I had a ben calimer built stage 2 mt-82
can you daily a cammed 2014 ?
Hell yea you can. Just get it tuned by Lund. You wont regret it.
I have stage 3s on mine and daily drive it. Just don't lock out the phasers and you should be good.
@@Bigmonkey34mn what happens when lockout phasers for daily??? I know it gives the chop sound if lockout
You would be giving up the variable cam timing i believe. Not sure why you would want to get rid of that but people do it so they can get the chop. Not a great move in my opinion.
@@EGPerformance lower performance and fuel economy want it?
What about Mutha Thumpr Cams for the coyote that is what I am going with? They pretty much like the Stage 3 but with chop right??
The specs are gonna be different, not sure if those cams are gonna be as aggressive as the stage 3’s
No coyote cams chop unless you do a cam tune OR lock out vct. Otherwise it's not gonna chop even with aftermarket cams at least not very much. It's the vct that stops it from chopping but it's also the vct that allows you to do a cam lope tune which is what I would do. Vct helps torque lot which is needed on na setups imo. If it's an all out race car it don't matter delete the vct. If it's a street car I'd keep dct and do a cam lope tune for the chop even with aftermarket cams.
Muthr Thumper cams are for the 05-10 3v's.
@@biggravy732 no bro I go them on my coyote too
Did you install the phase limiters
Yea we did.
Where you buy your cobra jet intake ?
American Muscle
What throttle body did you use with the CJ
I used the ford racing twin 65mm
Did you go with NA or blower cams with that set up? Just curious🤔
NA Cams
Why would he do blower cams on an na setup?
@@midnight347 if you’re not planning on a turbo set up Yes , some do blower cams instead , if they plan on supercharging or nitrous they love blower cams vs NA,
Is worth doing this on a gen 2 with a 6r80?
I don’t see why not. If your looking to go max effort this is the way.
What gears you have in the car.
3.73
@@EGPerformance i was gonna go 4.10 but probably only get 8mpgs
Hard trying to find a cj for a good price thoughts on a boss 302 manifold with cams?
Or 18 manifold with cams
Both are solid but if you want to utilize the cams to their maximum potential (which is In the higher rpm range) you need the cobra jet. If your going to go without cams, the 18 mani and boss mani both tune very similar and make similar numbers.
@@EGPerformance think the new cobra jet that’s coming out soon will be good?
Yea no doubt. Should flow very similar to the old one but we will see very soon.
@ARMAN2FAST it's at least as good if not better. It looks pretty good too. I wouldn't do anything other than a cj if I had cams. A ported boss with port matched 90mm tbody opening and 90mm tbody can perform pretty good but by the time you do all that you could have just went with a cj.
Any mods to the Mt82 cause at high rpms idk if that’s safe ?
Its safe, i would just change out the clutch and your good.
Love the build and channel btw love the mach1 as well 🤙🤙🤙🤙 def subbed btw look forward to more content
High rpm use was the main reason they went with the mt82 in the coyote cars. The trans is fine at high rpm its the clutch and the shifter that suck once you fortify it the mt82 is actually not a bad trans. It unfairly gets blame for high rpm lockout when that's the clutch.
I’m probably gonna try to copy this set up but like I think I might invest in the t56
@@EGPerformance what clutch you recommend with this setup.
Hows your mpgs after that
14-16mpg
@@EGPerformance is that highway or city or both lol.
@@EGPerformance how much was the built transmission.
@@EGPerformance what transmission you recommend.
@@EGPerformance which oil pump gears did you go with new to modifications.
Did you dyno the car after the cam swap?
Yes I did, you can find that video here:
ruclips.net/video/Ko0tCSWUysc/видео.html
How come you didn’t go with modular head shop cams instead of comp? Just wondering because I’m looking to do cams myself. I know they suggest lockouts for mhs
The stage 3 comps are very proven and thats what lund racing recommends. Havent taken any look at mhs cams for the 5.0. If its your daily driver, i wouldnt delete the phasers or do lockout plates.
@@EGPerformance I agree trying not to make it my daily and go full race mode lol
How much power did that set up make
Check out the Dyno video here:
ruclips.net/video/Ko0tCSWUysc/видео.html
How does the mpg differ from regular pump gas and cams?
Not 100% sure cause I rarely used 93 pump gas with the cams. You can look to see a 13-14 mpg average when you do this. When your doing these mods, you dont really look at the mps's.
Who cares?!?!
You have a buyer for it yet ??
Yea we do man.
It sounded good with the cams
I thought that was.a s550
Well duh it’s faster than a car without cams, it needs the cams to run! Just messing lol
Any 10psi boost application will walk you, just from a money perspective 🤔. The set up is sick though. Lund for the win
If your talking boosted 5.0 then sure but i wouldnt say any 10 psi setup. Some peoples setups are trash. This was also a daily driver. Its a gen 1 so it probably would cost more to build the motor and get the supercharger. I wouldnt risk having a stock bottom end on this car. Especially since it was a daily. But if i could do it over, i would. If i could do whatever i wanted, i would boost the 2013 boss 302 platform.
@@EGPerformance gen 1s can handle like 630 whp.
Any 10 psi boosted setup is gonna cost more money too if you do it right and not skimp on shit. It's all relative. Also it would keep up alot more than you think it ain't just about peak.
@James McMillan they can do 650-700 pretty easily with a good tune and good fuel. Probably not with no supporting mods and 91 octane.
A cammed cj car is significantly faster than just a typical bolt on car. Even a fbo 18 manifold car would get wrecked. A cammed cj setup is actually pretty fast. It's not as fast as most boosted setups but it's not as far off as you think ecsp for your dollar. You can do a cammed cj setup for like 4k or something and before you say it no you can't boost one (correctly) for 4k. After you do the supporting mods and stuff it's gonna be a decent bit more on basically any boosted setup. For the money this isn't a bad way to go it's also a good setup for a road race car that is gonna sew 30+ minute thrashing sessions where weight balance and no heat soak matters more than max peak power. I am all about boosted setups too but I can see going either way depending on what you want. A cammed cj setup is absolutely worth it it'll make you way faster than typical bolt on 5.0s.
What did you do to the heads, or how did you match the cam with the rest of the top end? Sounds good Not functional Pal. It’s not rocket science
I didnt do anything to the heads. I’m not sure i understand your question. The stage 3 comp cams are the best for the cobra jet manifold if you want to rev it to 8k rpms. Makes power all the way to 8k and then it starts to fall off after. Hands down the best setup for max effort NA.
No track or dragy times 😢?
How much would it cost to put in the boundary gears and other parts