Good job Wendy! FYI, when you are ready to store your small engine equipment for the season it's best to run it and drain all the fuel out of the tank and carburetor. Or you can start it up every several weeks and add fresh fuel. (More Expensive) Their are a few very good fuel additives that I trust, Lucas Safeguard, Echo Red Armor, Stab-Bil 360 and Starbright. It sounds like you need to remove the carb on your unit and give it a good cleaning, if it still surges, check out Taryl Fixes All or Steve's small engine repair, great informative videos. Also when you drain the oil, remove the dipstick to help drain the oil and I like to poor a few ounces of fresh oil into the crankcase to remove the rest of the old oil out, especially since these engines only hold 20 ounces of oil and no oil filter.
Fantastic work. Those Torch plugs that come from the factory are junk, even new ones make the motor run poorly compared to Champion or NGK. I use a square of aluminum foil to form a tray to direct oil away from the machine. Once done, I shake it off and toss it in the recycling.
I have exactly that same snowblower, it’s four years old. I had the exact same problem. I did exactly what you did and it started. Ran a little rough so I just let it run on choke for awhile get more of the old gas out of it eventually it smoothed out. Put it on run and bingo. Awesome 👌🏼
Always run your blower on High test non ethanol gas. Bought a used Ariens Deluxe 30 snowblower 5 years ago, started using Shell Ultra premium gas ( non ethanol) as soon as I got it & it cleaned up the carb & have had no problems since. I don't empty the fuel out of the tank after sitting all summer & it fires right up on one pull.
If you can buy 94 octane ethanol free fuel in your state use that in your snowblower and it will run great. I use a product called Sea Foam and I add a capful of it every time I fill up the tank. It will keep your carburetor and fuel system clean and it also acts as a fuel stabilizer. I run that in my snowblower, lawnmower, and rototiller and all the spitting and sputtering and engine surging is gone and they will all start even when they have not been run in months at a time.
You can go one step further when you have time by using some really small drill bits to clean out the carb buildup in those screws that hold the carburetor together and that clears up the surging.
I got mine together today. I don't have the space to put it away fully assembled. I remove the upper handle /control panel and snorkel rotation rod. It's the second season for it so I haven't change the OEM oil yet. I make a gallon of gas at a time. I add STA-BIL 360 to the fuel and run it out of fuel at the end of the season. Its much better at straight path clearing, not easy to turn around or back up. I use my 20 inch Toro for side walks out to the street and walk ways to the steps..
You are an inspiration to those who are intimidated by working on their outdoor power equipment. When it comes to plugged up carburetors, it is best to completely disassemble the carburetor and clean everything. Don't forget to take out the emulsion tube and clean all the tiny holes. There are many videos on doing a complete disassembly and Indepth cleaning. Ethanol in the fuel is what cause all the problems, especially during storage. If possible, once the carburetor has been completely cleaned, use non ethanol fuel. If that is not an option, then use fuel stabilizer in all your outdoor power equipment fuel, and when the season is over, drain all the fuel out of the carburetor and fuel tank. Witner is right at the door, it's time to our snow machines ready. Oh yes, I see you used 4 cycle snow blower oil. Most don't realize air cooled 4 cycle engines use special additives to deal with moisture and the higher temperatures air cooled engines run at. And for those who are sticklers towards using full synthetic only, it is available in 4 cycle 0w30, 5w30 and in summer 10w30, straight 30 weight and so on.
I have the same blower with similar symptoms, runs best between choke and run, ill have to look at the carb, but it always starts right up. I definitely recommend non ethanol fuel for any equipment that is prone to sitting for extended periods. The ethanol fuel doesn't last and attracts water, which settles to the bottom of the tank and goes right to the carb on gravity feed, hence no start, bad running. Sometimes you can open the carb drain and watch the water run out. I put my blower away last spring with 1/4 tank and no stabilizer and when I pulled it out in November it fired right up. Most people will tell you to drain the fuel or fill the tank and add stabilizer when putting away for the year, but I have found that unnecessary with ethanol free fuel.
Nice job Wendy. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. Just bought a used blower like yours and will check the items mentioned.
Good job Wendy! FYI, when you are ready to store your small engine equipment for the season it's best to run it and drain all the fuel out of the tank and carburetor. Or you can start it up every several weeks and add fresh fuel. (More Expensive) Their are a few very good fuel additives that I trust, Lucas Safeguard, Echo Red Armor, Stab-Bil 360 and Starbright. It sounds like you need to remove the carb on your unit and give it a good cleaning, if it still surges, check out Taryl Fixes All or Steve's small engine repair, great informative videos. Also when you drain the oil, remove the dipstick to help drain the oil and I like to poor a few ounces of fresh oil into the crankcase to remove the rest of the old oil out, especially since these engines only hold 20 ounces of oil and no oil filter.
Thank you so much I have the same one for 13 years now only once I had fix the carb I like to run it dry and no problems
Fantastic work. Those Torch plugs that come from the factory are junk, even new ones make the motor run poorly compared to Champion or NGK. I use a square of aluminum foil to form a tray to direct oil away from the machine. Once done, I shake it off and toss it in the recycling.
I have exactly that same snowblower, it’s four years old. I had the exact same problem. I did exactly what you did and it started. Ran a little rough so I just let it run on choke for awhile get more of the old gas out of it eventually it smoothed out. Put it on run and bingo. Awesome 👌🏼
Always run your blower on High test non ethanol gas. Bought a used Ariens Deluxe 30 snowblower 5 years ago, started using Shell Ultra premium gas ( non ethanol) as soon as I got it & it cleaned up the carb & have had no problems since. I don't empty the fuel out of the tank after sitting all summer & it fires right up on one pull.
If you can buy 94 octane ethanol free fuel in your state use that in your snowblower and it will run great. I use a product called Sea Foam and I add a capful of it every time I fill up the tank. It will keep your carburetor and fuel system clean and it also acts as a fuel stabilizer. I run that in my snowblower, lawnmower, and rototiller and all the spitting and sputtering and engine surging is gone and they will all start even when they have not been run in months at a time.
Hi , again great video and thanks for your time to make it! Windy you rock
Great presentation. Keep them coming.
You can go one step further when you have time by using some really small drill bits to clean out the carb buildup in those screws that hold the carburetor together and that clears up the surging.
I got mine together today. I don't have the space to put it away fully assembled. I remove the upper handle /control panel and snorkel rotation rod. It's the second season for it so I haven't change the OEM oil yet. I make a gallon of gas at a time. I add STA-BIL 360 to the fuel and run it out of fuel at the end of the season. Its much better at straight path clearing, not easy to turn around or back up. I use my 20 inch Toro for side walks out to the street and walk ways to the steps..
You are an inspiration to those who are intimidated by working on their outdoor power equipment. When it comes to plugged up carburetors, it is best to completely disassemble the carburetor and clean everything. Don't forget to take out the emulsion tube and clean all the tiny holes. There are many videos on doing a complete disassembly and Indepth cleaning. Ethanol in the fuel is what cause all the problems, especially during storage. If possible, once the carburetor has been completely cleaned, use non ethanol fuel. If that is not an option, then use fuel stabilizer in all your outdoor power equipment fuel, and when the season is over, drain all the fuel out of the carburetor and fuel tank. Witner is right at the door, it's time to our snow machines ready. Oh yes, I see you used 4 cycle snow blower oil. Most don't realize air cooled 4 cycle engines use special additives to deal with moisture and the higher temperatures air cooled engines run at. And for those who are sticklers towards using full synthetic only, it is available in 4 cycle 0w30, 5w30 and in summer 10w30, straight 30 weight and so on.
Nothing better then a woman standing up and doing the job. That saved you a couple hundred. Nice job not too many ladies doing it on their own.
Thanks for keeping it simple. Going outside to do this right now!
Good job!
Congratulations on your successful 'repair'. Very entertaining. Now all your neighbors will be running to you with every repair issue.
I am proud of you for trying and actually fixing it.
Good job little lady❤
I have the same blower with similar symptoms, runs best between choke and run, ill have to look at the carb, but it always starts right up. I definitely recommend non ethanol fuel for any equipment that is prone to sitting for extended periods. The ethanol fuel doesn't last and attracts water, which settles to the bottom of the tank and goes right to the carb on gravity feed, hence no start, bad running. Sometimes you can open the carb drain and watch the water run out. I put my blower away last spring with 1/4 tank and no stabilizer and when I pulled it out in November it fired right up. Most people will tell you to drain the fuel or fill the tank and add stabilizer when putting away for the year, but I have found that unnecessary with ethanol free fuel.