Chris - Thank you for this excellent video. By following this the steps that you outline I have just finished upgrading my Anycubic Kossel Plus to 32 bit SKR1.3 with TMC2208's. Just doing some simple test prints, but at this point I am amazed at how quiet the printer is with the 2208's. Need to finish tuning, and really want to see the effect on the print quality, and speed. I look forward to more content on the SKR v1.3! Thanks again!
Quick PS. Just printed a couple of Benchies one at .2 and the other at .1 layer height. Both are perfect! Really recommend this upgrade. A few things to note though: 1) The polarity of the power input screw block is opposite from the other screw terminals for the heaters. Red on the LEFT for the power. And the screening is small and hard to see especially if there are a bunch of other wires already connected and getting in the way. I learned this the hard way. But the fuse did blow and protect the board, so was just out a buck for a new fuse. 2) JST connectors are a big pain to crimp. If I end up doing this again, I think that I might get some JST cables, and the solder them to the limit switches rather than try to crimp on new connectors.
I have the SKR v1.3 board and TMC2208s on the way and found this video. Thank you for being so thorough and making this excellent walk through. My only suggestion is maybe place timestamps to different sections of the video in the description.
@@ChrisRiley When I hit the check mark to build it says it failed and every board that says skip for you says fail for me. But the LPC1768 and LPC1769 say success. Any suggestions?
Just moved to 32 bit, SKR1.3/2208 and tft35. Watched a ton of RUclips vids but yours helped me the most, thanks for that. Straight into it without a huge intro, love the drum solo, your videos move at a decent pace.
Another excellent video and the timing could not have been better. I received my SKR board last week and it will be going in to the CoreXY I'm building.
Superb video as always Chris, thank you. Especially since I am seriously considering the SKR 1.3 and 2208's for my Borg. Looking forward to more videos on this combo.
@@ChrisRiley I'd also been procrastinating the switch to platformio for arduino/esp projects, your video showed how easy it is to get up and going on it so thanks for that too (though I prefer vscode).
I just heard that the SKR V1.3 pro is coming out in a few days. The main differences are - 15ABlade Fuse added and 30A Fuse changed. - Built-in 6-channel driver with Dual-Z function Supports 7 ports. - Changed to a stronger screw terminal. - USB B port addition. - PWM FAN 4 ports. - Added I2C. It also might have the STM32F4 as the MCU. The FPU for Floating operation is also a separate chip, and the maximum operating clock is 180MHz.
Hell yeah, this board rocks ! I've got it working few weeks ago and boy oh boy, its sweet as honey. I know it doesn't have all the features like a duet, but with that price its already a steal.
@@ChrisRiley Oh my... I'm an idiot. Got my board today however I thought I had ordered the 1.3 but in fact it is a 1.1 Mini. Cute little board. It will be used on the Ender 3 after I figure out how to set it up.
You can easliy configure Marlin to use the E1 Stepper as Z1 if you have a standard single-extruder setup. It keeps the required current on the stepper down, that is something you usually should care about on the "small" tmcs like 2130 or 2208.
I don't know if this has been posted before but you can configure marlin to use a second stepper driver to drive the additional Z motor. I did this with my Anet A8 and it was relatively easy the second I found the option. Even though Z doesn't move that much, I like having peace of mind that I don't put unnecessary load on one driver for two motors since I have an extra driver to do the job. I got myself some 2208's this week. Time to dig up my printer again and put them in.
Thanks, Chris. Finally proper and specific movie about skr 1.3 on YT. Now I'm waiting about 2130 SPI MODE config. TMC2208 and TMC2130 will have a lot of views specific on ender3.
Thanks Chris, nice video! I bought skr 1.3, tft 35, 2208 uart v3 and bltouch v3. Waiting for upcoming videos to learn from you and how to set up this board for full enjoy
Already bougth SKR1.1 + DRV8825 and replaced board on my Anet A6. I plan to replace DRV8825 (already have 5x TMC2130), but they are dirt cheap and for testing work very well. Btw - if you don't use dual extruder, you can just use E1 as second Z driver in marlin and you don't need to create Y cable
23:20 - Don't forget `M502`, `M500` after flashing the new firmware to make sure your new configured settings get activated and saved to the EEPROM. (The board reset button likely does not clear the EEPROM, and Marlin saves EEPROM data to SD or MCU flash on some boards.)
This is fenomenal! Thank you very much for this review. I have been thinking of getting this SKR board for a while now.. but just as you have pointed out.. can not really reach those speeds on my cartesian printer reliably for a good print quality. Thumbs up Chris! Really my favourite 3D printing hardware channel.
Hi Chris, thanks for making this video, I enjoyed especially the circle speed tests. I have some suggestions for your next video testing out the SKR1.3. I've been an early adopter of the SKR1.3 BIQU sent me a free SKR 1.3 for contributing the "popular" product suggestion of TMC2208 UART w/o flying wires, so I've been using it for a while. Suggestions: 1. Using Vase mode will result in a constant circular speed, without the layer change jerk/bump. This will make it easier to visually separate stutters from layer change jerks. 2. Test to see if printing via USB via Octoprint behaves differently. Ie, see if the Octoprint USB bandwidth bottleneck is still a factor with the SKR1.3. The interesting thing about the SKR1.3 (and setting serial port to -1 in marlin configuration.h is a clue to this) is that Baud Rate doesn't matter whether its 9.6k or 500K - there is no USB to serial conversion happening - There is a direct USB connection between the pi (or computer) into the SKR. Andy Shaw, who personally wrote most of the SKR/LPC1768 USB stack said, verbatim, "There is no USB to serial conversion on the SKR boards. The USB stack (which runs on the LPC1768) handles the "USB serial" connection directly." Source: facebook.com/groups/505736576548648/permalink/668928390229465/?comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22O%22%7D Therefore in theory, there is oodles of bandwidth over the USB bus. However, jury is still out on whether this takes out Octoprint as the bottleneck when printing fast circles, or simply raises the speed ceiling before octoprint bottlenecks because the Pi still needs to supply instructions just in time and is timing sensitive - if the SKR board's marlin buffer empties just for a tiny period of time despite having large bandwidth, then you still get stutters. For my own firmware build, I've increased buffers just in case since theres gobs of memory available. My commit with my buffer settings. github.com/talldonkey/Marlin-2.0-SKR-1.3-Ender-3/commit/8dd0490d8ff123fd15fe7f4181a48a4c00d091ce I did a test print at 150mm/s inner walls (2600 acceleration) and 50mm/s outer walls (500 acceleration) (Via Octoprint) and was shocked at the quality I got. I was expecting a mess, but it came out 85% good.
Great Video Chris, I bought one of these boards for my next printer project ( Up scaled HyperCube ). I really enjoyed your run thru of the basic config on your "Log" printer.
Very nice informative video Chris! I did not know your channel from before but will follow along as I am all about technical 3d printing nerdly stuff as I design 3d printers
@@ChrisRiley If you also could check speed printing from octoprint that would be nice. This is a buffer issue in the firmware and not processor as I understand so we might see studder also here?
Hi Chris, great video. I got one of these running with some help from your rearm video. (So, thanks twice.) It was pretty much a drop in replacement for an MKS 1.4 and is working well so far in an old FT5 r1. It's so much quieter that it seems weird. Margin notes... I had the same 2208 v1.2 driver you used and it was only necessary to connect the J2 pad (the one closest to uart pin) with the center pad (chip) to enable uart. As I understood it, the other pin/pad was unused in the current config so it doesn't hurt anything to connect all three as you did though. The drivers get a little warm, and the vref is different than allegro, so mind the current. People say stealthchop robs too much torque for extruders so I didn't try quiet mode for that, but the 2208 is working fine for 'E' in spread cycle with a gear reduction extruder. Might want to sign your channel up as a brave browser content creator so people can toss bat tokens your way. Take care...
Thanks for the comment, glad to know it helped you twice! Thanks for the extra info on the 2208's. I have never heard of brave browser, I will have to look into that.
Good video series. I started out with mainframes and I don't see how you keep all of these settings in mind and are able to riff them out like that. I'm envious. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for posting, I had a look at the SKR and it looked pretty promising, but as the Re Arm was available to me I plonked some LV8729's in one and put it on my kossel linear plus, the difference is quite amazing, 1/64 microstepping is plenty quiet for me and has plenty of torque even with the stepper Vref only @ 0.5v the motors stay pretty cool and unlike when testing the 2130's on the kossel I have no layer shifts, longest print so far has been 8 hours at 120mm/s, I have gone up to 160 mm/s but the stock effector arms rattle too much for my liking at that speed the only issue I have with the ReArm is its height, I really dont want to shove it under the heated bed because heatsinks on the steppers are pretty tall, this is why I am looking towards the SKR, I'll keep the ReArm as a backup
Great Video helped me get my board set up. I was playing around in Marlin 2.0 and found an easter egg you might enjoy. Just compile your Configuration.h with one of the following lines: #define MARLIN_INVADERS or #define MARLIN_MAZE or #define MARLIN_SNAKE or #define MARLIN_BRICKOUT It will activate a 'Game' option in the menu Interesting but totally a time waster. Keep up the great videos
Nice. This video will help alot. I have a Delta that really suffers with 8bit Marlin. I was waiting for a replacement 32bit board, and the know how to upgrade. I upgraded to tmc2130's but with spi, didn't know uart mode less wiring... Thank you again. Another upgrade but now I have direction. Already a patreon but I think I'll make a donation too.
good job as usual. ur marlin 2.0 video helped me set this up a few weeks ago. keep in mind there is an issue with marlin 2.0 this board and 2130's doing linear advance. the extruder won't work. might be fixed now but a month ago I know it was an issue when. did it. took me 3 hours figuring out why my extruder wasn't working lol
Thanks! I hear ya, I think I have downloaded 2.0 about 6 different times now, there is always something popping up that is either broken or now fixed. :)
I'm back, and my rebuild is complete! My SKR came with a dead X axis - it just wouldn't work in UART mode. For now, I ended up remapping the E1 axis I'm not using as a replacement for X in pins.h. You just swap the pin numbers around. It works!
@@ChrisRiley Must stay that fine tuning is a PITA... keep having less results then with my 4988 drivers.. ( hint: a video perhaps :) with voltage adjustment in uart mode )
I think that junction deviation is an interesting topic for a new video, particularly with a 32bit board that can actually handle it. I personally don‘t really understand it to full extend
@@ChrisRiley nice! I'm definitely thrilled for that! All I know is that it made my printer less "jerky" while not affecting print time much. Quality is about the same, I'd say... There is a good article about jd with a formula where you can put in your accel and jerk values and it gives a jd value.. but as I said, a vid would be very nice
@@ChrisRiley true that - just a bummer that I upgraded to an mks gen l 2 months ago 😅 still, this is so fairly priced that I'm considering it just for the fun of it
@@ChrisRiley hah, yeah I need to step back then revisit this, I am just now learning whats available, did not even know there were 3 modes for tmc drivers..., was like woah woah
Txs a lot for your informative installation. I followed your instructions and am happy to say everything works to a point. My screens on same readings as yours so quite happy and proud being a 1st timer at doing a modification like this. My only question being installing Merlin. My machine is tronxxy branded as a Prusa i3. I know. I would like to know what settings to change in Marlin as apposed to your machine. I believe your settings will not work on mine. Your valuable knowledge and assistance would be great appreciated. Just to inform you, I have never done any marlin configurations and uploads, so I will be watching and pausing your video. Thanks Wayne.
I would start here, github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/config you can take a config that might already work for your machine and copy the config files.
Thanks for putting this video together. It has been very helpful in setting up my SKR v1.3. I bought 4 TMC2208 drivers for this, but then changed the Z & E0 to A4988. First I was going to change them to DRV8825 but after some problems with those I switched to A4988 on those 2 drivers. My main reason for this response is that I set the VREF on an old RAMPS board 1st for the DRV8825 drivers mostly because it was easier, but when I checked the voltage again after putting the DRV8825 chips in the SKR board they were a lot lower voltages. It could have been I had an iffy ramps board. Have you tried checking the voltage of drivers on different boards?
On the cheaper boards, voltage seems to be a little inconsistent when measured from the drivers. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a difference board to board.
I like that you put ferrules on your power wires. Much better than loose or soldered which can loosen over time. Did that to mine when I installed an MKS. As you said, 32bit permits Ludicrous speeds however I'm trying to think of a situation where it could be used. Would it be for large nozzle sizes and huge, low detail prints? I'll admit my experience is limited. Great video. 30min isn't all that long except for the time it takes you to edit. Am I wrong in assuming uart mode just gives diagnostics and the ability to adjust the vref via gcode? Oh, the reset button would need an easy way to push it built into any STL file for an enclosure, IMO.
Thanks! I really like those connectors, so much nicer. Really as far as detail I don't think 32 will matter much. I see it more for corexy and Delta computing. Correct, UART just gives you some monitoring and control of the mode they run in and VRFE.
Hi Chris. Your videos are awsome. You provide enough information that even a novice like me find it easy to follow. Can I ask if you could do a I stall video of SKR on a Cr10s Pro
Quick tip everybody, the (-) and (+) on the 12v in are REVERSED from the heat bed. So I connected the heated bed first and then screwed the power wires in to match. Fired it up, heard ZZZZZZZZZZZZZTTTTT and the green LED is coming on but nothing is responding at all. The firmware card isn't being accessed, the 2004LCD isn't turning on. Fedora is not registering that I plugged anything in. I have a replacement board already on route. I only hope that I didn't burn the TMC2208v3.0s out, too, because a set of those is $10 more than the board,
Another great video Chris. I've been using this board since it was released, great value for money. But I wouldn't recommend the Bigtreetech TMC's the FYSETC boards have a better thermal design.
Great video, very helpful but after upgrading marlin with Your help my control button works the other way around (turning it clockwise leads to decrease value) I wonder if there is a way to reverse it
Percussor S. I’m assuming your controller utilizes a rotary encoder? Configuration.h: Line 1620, change; //#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION To #define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION Compile and flash firmware.bin to your skr v1.3
Hi Chris, you always produce fantastic videos, I only watch yours because you explain things properly, I have installed one of these boards and a 2.8 touch screen in my Wanhao Duplicator I3. What would be the correct settings now to use in Cura. Hope you can help. cheers, Paul
Thanks for the reply Chris, I do use the wanhao cura edition, I have discovered several flaws with the Wanhao dup i3 and will share them with you for your thoughs and views but I need to take pics first. cheers. Paul
You just fried my mind, I wnder how many times you have to do what you did to get that fast. Well I subscribed and if I watch it enough times I will learn from you. Thank you Chris your a 3d printing guru. I thought Trinimic drivers where when the printer bottomed out so to speak on all its axes to find its limits, is this not so?
Ya thats what I mean. Thanks. Does someone manufacture a control box with all the goodness inside for some of these old printers like the CR-10s, like touch screen, new power suply, and 32 bit board, and cooling fans?
Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 seems to be out 2 months ago. It has 2209 drivers and all integrated...but as 2209:s seem to have ran out almost globally they ship at end of october this year...
Marlin 2.0.x seems to have support also for that. Just ordered it from their ae store as it looked like a good upgrade for CR-10 mini controller board.
i got my hands on one 2 weeks ago, just haven't had the guts to install it yet as i hastily just bought it without researching into specs(d'oh!) and it has max power rating of 180W/12V and 360W/24V. I have a CR-10 mini with 220W heated bed and 40W stock hotend running on 12V. This adds up for 260W power on 12V and the board has 20A fuse, that already is too much for that. I have to dive into the mosfet specs that board has, i think those will go first if i change for a bigger fuse. I have a reddit post here about all this : www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/czg06t/cr10_mini_with_skr_mini_e3/
as i commented on your 32 bit video; great tutorial Chris! One request though; i feel like you skipped over lots of information in the marlin cofig and just said "i set it to this" but not why, maybe explain the *why* in a bit more detail in fututre videos? :) Thanks!
So, 32 bit is nice, but I'm not convinced. 8 bit seems to work fine for me (I'm not in that big a hurry). So why would we want to consider 32 bit systems if we are ultimately limited by how fast we can lay down plastic in the first place?
I bought an SKR v1.3 after watching your video and was amazed to find 2-3V of ripple! on the 5V switching power supply even though the 24V input had only 120mV of ripple going in. They do seem to have put some thought into the filter network on the 3.3V supply (not that it helps much with right around 1V of ripple), but there's no such network on the 5V supply. Just curious if this is typical, or if my board is just defective--have you tried putting an oscilloscope on yours?
I believe as of Marlin 2.0.3 the 2208 on the extruder is still not compatible with Linear Advance 1.5. When the GCode tells Marlin about the linear advance, the extruder stops moving. It was reported back on the GitHub and there is a solution which implies editing some files (not configuration.h or configuration_adv.h). However, as far as I know, the solution has not yet been implemented. That's why I'm still using A4988 (I think) on extruders on my Marlin driven machines.
Hey Felix, we are actually talking with Scott on Lu from Marlin on the Friday hangout. I will ask them. It will be on this channel. ruclips.net/channel/UCPOu2PrCF3J3j05L9jlEsMQfeatured
Another great video Chris. The one thing I have not seen in your videos is how to install the correct usb driver. Is anyone else having issues installing the usb driver on Win8.1? I have turned off driver signing but still cannot get the correct driver to install. I'd love to test Chris's tutorial.
@@ChrisRiley Awesome! I have both the SKR 1.3 and the SKR PRO and both are a headache. The RE-ARM installed by disabling driver signing but that didn't work for the SKR. BTW, when buying through Amazon the tech support is much better.
@@charlescarey6924 Maybe you can help me test this. I can't reproduce this on windows 10. Load this file on your SKR SD card and reboot the board. Does this make the USB work? drive.google.com/open?id=1QUhBeQ2siyWsqETnqkKtBEyBw4yeNnJ5
@@ChrisRiley SKR sent a test usb driver if you are interested. I have moved back to RE-ARM. BIGTREE is just too flaky to spend time on. Maybe in the future when they've matured a bit I'll return.
A big thank you for this great video from Germany in the "old" world. I considered to get a Re-Arm after your video on that. But you changed my mind. There is one question I have you might to answer. Based on your video for the "controllable" Hotend Fan which works great on my RAMPS I am wondering if you can explain me how to set it up on the SKR. Which Pin can I use? I'm not so deep into electronics to figure out by myself. Thanks again, I love your videos.
Chris - Thank you for this excellent video. By following this the steps that you outline I have just finished upgrading my Anycubic Kossel Plus to 32 bit SKR1.3 with TMC2208's. Just doing some simple test prints, but at this point I am amazed at how quiet the printer is with the 2208's. Need to finish tuning, and really want to see the effect on the print quality, and speed. I look forward to more content on the SKR v1.3! Thanks again!
Awesome Mark! Glad I could help out.
Quick PS. Just printed a couple of Benchies one at .2 and the other at .1 layer height. Both are perfect! Really recommend this upgrade. A few things to note though:
1) The polarity of the power input screw block is opposite from the other screw terminals for the heaters. Red on the LEFT for the power. And the screening is small and hard to see especially if there are a bunch of other wires already connected and getting in the way. I learned this the hard way. But the fuse did blow and protect the board, so was just out a buck for a new fuse.
2) JST connectors are a big pain to crimp. If I end up doing this again, I think that I might get some JST cables, and the solder them to the limit switches rather than try to crimp on new connectors.
I have the SKR v1.3 board and TMC2208s on the way and found this video. Thank you for being so thorough and making this excellent walk through.
My only suggestion is maybe place timestamps to different sections of the video in the description.
Right on man, thanks for the suggestion.
@@ChrisRiley When I hit the check mark to build it says it failed and every board that says skip for you says fail for me. But the LPC1768 and LPC1769 say success. Any suggestions?
The problem was fixed by restarting the computer and then re-downloading the firmware and starting all over.
Glad that fixed it.
Just moved to 32 bit, SKR1.3/2208 and tft35. Watched a ton of RUclips vids but yours helped me the most, thanks for that.
Straight into it without a huge intro, love the drum solo, your videos move at a decent pace.
Thanks Bob, glad they are helpful.
What a great video! Thank you very much. Please make more videos covering the SKR v1.3 and TMC drivers!
Hey thanks! Will do!
Great video Chris! This is exactly what intermediate tinkerers want. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Will do!
This is going to be so handy in a few days, I just ordered the SKR V1.3 and the TMC2130 SPI, thanks for this!
Nice Alex, glad to help!
You can’t find better content that is step by step. Thank you!
Thanks Chris! It's always good to have another Chris on board. :)
Another excellent video and the timing could not have been better. I received my SKR board last week and it will be going in to the CoreXY I'm building.
Awesome! Glad it helped you.
Awesomely detailed video on connecting and configuring! Thanks for all the hard work putting it all together.
Thanks for watching.
Superb video as always Chris, thank you. Especially since I am seriously considering the SKR 1.3 and 2208's for my Borg. Looking forward to more videos on this combo.
Thanks Spike! More to come.
Another great TUT ! 32 bit boards are here to stay ! Thanks for making this one Chris !!!
Thanks Ron, your continued support is always appreciated.
Literally just bought an SKR board yesterday for an Ender 3 upgrade, so you gained a Patreon supporter.
Thanks so much for the support!
@@ChrisRiley I'd also been procrastinating the switch to platformio for arduino/esp projects, your video showed how easy it is to get up and going on it so thanks for that too (though I prefer vscode).
I just heard that the SKR V1.3 pro is coming out in a few days.
The main differences are
- 15ABlade Fuse added and 30A Fuse changed.
- Built-in 6-channel driver with Dual-Z function Supports 7 ports.
- Changed to a stronger screw terminal.
- USB B port addition.
- PWM FAN 4 ports.
- Added I2C.
It also might have the STM32F4 as the MCU. The FPU for Floating operation is also a separate chip, and the maximum operating clock is 180MHz.
Link to source. I would love to hold off for this updated version!
Very nice! We might have to check that out.
@@simulatedfish1995 source: bigtreetech facebook page. Biqu pcb designer often post there.
Your channel is boon to 3D printing world, please keep posting wonderful videos like this!!!
Thank you! I will do my best.
Hell yeah, this board rocks ! I've got it working few weeks ago and boy oh boy, its sweet as honey. I know it doesn't have all the features like a duet, but with that price its already a steal.
I'm glad it's working out.
Perfect timing. I recently received my SKR 1.3 board to fit in my Anet E10 but haven't had chance to try it out yet. This would be fun lol
Awesome Andy! Have fun.
My combo is on it's way so thanks for making this video! I'm looking forward to seeing other videos with the SKR 1.3 board.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisRiley Oh my... I'm an idiot. Got my board today however I thought I had ordered the 1.3 but in fact it is a 1.1 Mini. Cute little board. It will be used on the Ender 3 after I figure out how to set it up.
@@Leos-World I think the 1.1 should be pretty close to this one, just no uart and spi I think.
Wow so much great information in 1 video. Thank You Chris.
Thanks man! I got to get caught up on your robot videos.
You can easliy configure Marlin to use the E1 Stepper as Z1 if you have a standard single-extruder setup. It keeps the required current on the stepper down, that is something you usually should care about on the "small" tmcs like 2130 or 2208.
I thought I actually mentioned that in this video, but I guess I cut it out. I will show that config on the next one. Thanks for the comment.
@@ChrisRiley Please do I'd like to do this :) As much as just reading the docs helps I still like to see others do it.
I don't know if this has been posted before but you can configure marlin to use a second stepper driver to drive the additional Z motor. I did this with my Anet A8 and it was relatively easy the second I found the option. Even though Z doesn't move that much, I like having peace of mind that I don't put unnecessary load on one driver for two motors since I have an extra driver to do the job. I got myself some 2208's this week. Time to dig up my printer again and put them in.
Yes, thanks for the post, very easy to do.
I just bought this combo but haven’t set up yet. Thank you for your great timing!
Great John, have fun!
Thank you for posting this. I bought one of these 'for a rainy day', and was looking for some good info.
Happy to help. Thanks
Was just looking for the jumper settings for the 2208's in stand alone, thanks for the video.
No problem 👍
Dude. Thumbs up and a sub. I've only seen a couple of you videos, but they all seem to be very informative. Thank you taking your time to do these!
Thanks Nick and thanks for the sub.
Great Job with this one. That was a lot to cover! Good to see nice and cheap 32bit boards on the market with a good feature set.
Thanks Mike, hopefully I'll get to a lot more on 32bit.
Thanks, Chris. Finally proper and specific movie about skr 1.3 on YT. Now I'm waiting about 2130 SPI MODE config. TMC2208 and TMC2130 will have a lot of views specific on ender3.
You;re very welcome. Yes, 2130's should be pretty similar, just different jumpers.
The best walkthroughs on YT period. Thanks a lot!
Thank you!
killing it like usual! everything i want to do you already have! appreciate the work man, keep it up
Thanks Andrew!
Thanks Chris, nice video! I bought skr 1.3, tft 35, 2208 uart v3 and bltouch v3. Waiting for upcoming videos to learn from you and how to set up this board for full enjoy
Thanks, stay tuned,
Thank you so much for testing it!! I was really considering this board but lack of info was making a pain
Thanks for watching!
Simply the best SKR installation video ! Many Thanks
Thank you!
Already bougth SKR1.1 + DRV8825 and replaced board on my Anet A6. I plan to replace DRV8825 (already have 5x TMC2130), but they are dirt cheap and for testing work very well.
Btw - if you don't use dual extruder, you can just use E1 as second Z driver in marlin and you don't need to create Y cable
Nice! Yep, I thought I touched on that in this video, but I guess I cut it out. I will add it to the next video.
Thanks Chris! You did a great job of putting this together.
Thanks
These videos are so helpful, it's very much appreciated.
Great, glad you like them!
23:20 - Don't forget `M502`, `M500` after flashing the new firmware to make sure your new configured settings get activated and saved to the EEPROM. (The board reset button likely does not clear the EEPROM, and Marlin saves EEPROM data to SD or MCU flash on some boards.)
Thanks Scott! Yes, I totally didn't do that in this one. Hopefully I remembered that in the Re-arm video. LOL It will be in the next one indeed.
@Bryan Rentoul I always forget to mention the eeprom reset. :)
@@soundspark Which interface?
@@soundspark Ah, gotcha.
Dude, thank you so much for making all these videos. You always do a great job!!
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Nice work Chris
Thanks Jose!
Hey Chris, Thanks so much for another great video! This will be an excellent update for my delta.
Thanks Todd, yes that should work out well.
This is fenomenal! Thank you very much for this review. I have been thinking of getting this SKR board for a while now.. but just as you have pointed out.. can not really reach those speeds on my cartesian printer reliably for a good print quality. Thumbs up Chris! Really my favourite 3D printing hardware channel.
Thanks so much! Glad you like the content.
Awesome thanks Chris 👍 I’ve had an skr 1.3 sitting on my desk for a couple weeks, gonna have to give it a shot
Do it! Thanks for watching.
Hi Chris, thanks for making this video, I enjoyed especially the circle speed tests. I have some suggestions for your next video testing out the SKR1.3. I've been an early adopter of the SKR1.3 BIQU sent me a free SKR 1.3 for contributing the "popular" product suggestion of TMC2208 UART w/o flying wires, so I've been using it for a while.
Suggestions:
1. Using Vase mode will result in a constant circular speed, without the layer change jerk/bump. This will make it easier to visually separate stutters from layer change jerks.
2. Test to see if printing via USB via Octoprint behaves differently. Ie, see if the Octoprint USB bandwidth bottleneck is still a factor with the SKR1.3. The interesting thing about the SKR1.3 (and setting serial port to -1 in marlin configuration.h is a clue to this) is that Baud Rate doesn't matter whether its 9.6k or 500K - there is no USB to serial conversion happening - There is a direct USB connection between the pi (or computer) into the SKR.
Andy Shaw, who personally wrote most of the SKR/LPC1768 USB stack said, verbatim, "There is no USB to serial conversion on the SKR boards. The USB stack (which runs on the LPC1768) handles the "USB serial" connection directly." Source: facebook.com/groups/505736576548648/permalink/668928390229465/?comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22O%22%7D
Therefore in theory, there is oodles of bandwidth over the USB bus. However, jury is still out on whether this takes out Octoprint as the bottleneck when printing fast circles, or simply raises the speed ceiling before octoprint bottlenecks because the Pi still needs to supply instructions just in time and is timing sensitive - if the SKR board's marlin buffer empties just for a tiny period of time despite having large bandwidth, then you still get stutters. For my own firmware build, I've increased buffers just in case since theres gobs of memory available. My commit with my buffer settings. github.com/talldonkey/Marlin-2.0-SKR-1.3-Ender-3/commit/8dd0490d8ff123fd15fe7f4181a48a4c00d091ce
I did a test print at 150mm/s inner walls (2600 acceleration) and 50mm/s outer walls (500 acceleration) (Via Octoprint) and was shocked at the quality I got. I was expecting a mess, but it came out 85% good.
Great suggestion, thank you. I will be sure to do that.
Outstanging. Just bought one of these boards for a new build. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for watching!
Great Video Chris, I bought one of these boards for my next printer project ( Up scaled HyperCube ). I really enjoyed your run thru of the basic config on your "Log" printer.
Great! I am glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Very nice informative video Chris! I did not know your channel from before but will follow along as I am all about technical 3d printing nerdly stuff as I design 3d printers
Thanks! Glad you like it.
@@ChrisRiley If you also could check speed printing from octoprint that would be nice. This is a buffer issue in the firmware and not processor as I understand so we might see studder also here?
@@PRO3DESIGN For sure, that is one of the main points I want to test.
i just command my skr v1.3 on amazon with your description and explanation are clear great work Chris :)
Nice! Thanks Steeve!
Another Great Video Chris. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for watching, as always Robert!
Hi Chris, great video. I got one of these running with some help from your rearm video. (So, thanks twice.) It was pretty much a drop in replacement for an MKS 1.4 and is working well so far in an old FT5 r1. It's so much quieter that it seems weird.
Margin notes... I had the same 2208 v1.2 driver you used and it was only necessary to connect the J2 pad (the one closest to uart pin) with the center pad (chip) to enable uart. As I understood it, the other pin/pad was unused in the current config so it doesn't hurt anything to connect all three as you did though. The drivers get a little warm, and the vref is different than allegro, so mind the current. People say stealthchop robs too much torque for extruders so I didn't try quiet mode for that, but the 2208 is working fine for 'E' in spread cycle with a gear reduction extruder.
Might want to sign your channel up as a brave browser content creator so people can toss bat tokens your way. Take care...
Thanks for the comment, glad to know it helped you twice! Thanks for the extra info on the 2208's. I have never heard of brave browser, I will have to look into that.
Your the man chris yet again I just upgraded my cr10 to this board with 2208s in uart and it would have been way easier if i saw this before
Thanks Phillip!
Good video series. I started out with mainframes and I don't see how you keep all of these settings in mind and are able to riff them out like that. I'm envious. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Thomas, it's a look to remember for sure.
Wow awesome little board!! nice review Chris!
Thanks Steeve!
Yes! I was hoping you would do a video on this board. Thanks!
You bet Scott!
Thanks for posting, I had a look at the SKR and it looked pretty promising, but as the Re Arm was available to me I plonked some LV8729's in one and put it on my kossel linear plus, the difference is quite amazing, 1/64 microstepping is plenty quiet for me and has plenty of torque even with the stepper Vref only @ 0.5v the motors stay pretty cool and unlike when testing the 2130's on the kossel I have no layer shifts, longest print so far has been 8 hours at 120mm/s, I have gone up to 160 mm/s but the stock effector arms rattle too much for my liking at that speed the only issue I have with the ReArm is its height, I really dont want to shove it under the heated bed because heatsinks on the steppers are pretty tall, this is why I am looking towards the SKR, I'll keep the ReArm as a backup
Right on Andy, yeah I would say the SKR is just a lot easier to install and your right it would be about half as tall as re-arm sandwich.
I usually don't comment on other channels. But bang up job
Thanks for stopping by.
Great Video helped me get my board set up. I was playing around in Marlin 2.0 and found an easter egg you might enjoy. Just compile your Configuration.h with one of the following lines:
#define MARLIN_INVADERS or
#define MARLIN_MAZE or
#define MARLIN_SNAKE or
#define MARLIN_BRICKOUT
It will activate a 'Game' option in the menu Interesting but totally a time waster.
Keep up the great videos
Thanks Larry! Yes, I have played around with these, love it!
You can enable dual z motors in the adv config and use the spare extruder spot for z2.
Yeah, I thought I talked about that in this video, I guess I cut it out.
Nice. This video will help alot. I have a Delta that really suffers with 8bit Marlin. I was waiting for a replacement 32bit board, and the know how to upgrade. I upgraded to tmc2130's but with spi, didn't know uart mode less wiring... Thank you again. Another upgrade but now I have direction. Already a patreon but I think I'll make a donation too.
Hey Nuroo, thanks man! At this price it's hard to say know. Your support of the channel is greatly appreciated.
@@ChrisRiley That's what I was thinking as I was watching video. But we really appreciate your leg work. Do you have a single 1 time donation link?
@@nuroo1 Hey man, I do have a PayPal link. www.paypal.me/ChrisBasement
Thanks for the Paypal! You the man!!!
@@ChrisRiley No worries. U da man. Great video, SKR ordered right after watching your video. You need affiliate links
This is going to save me some time this weekend. Thanks for the info.
Awesome! Good luck on your install!
Sweet!,this will definitely help the 3d community out!
Great, glad to hear it.
Great ! Chris so farso good...
Great!
good job as usual. ur marlin 2.0 video helped me set this up a few weeks ago. keep in mind there is an issue with marlin 2.0 this board and 2130's doing linear advance. the extruder won't work. might be fixed now but a month ago I know it was an issue when. did it. took me 3 hours figuring out why my extruder wasn't working lol
Thanks! I hear ya, I think I have downloaded 2.0 about 6 different times now, there is always something popping up that is either broken or now fixed. :)
This is a great tutorial! I'm going to follow this to upgrade one of my printers; the original control board is dying.
Awesome! Good luck with the upgrade, thanks Dave.
I'm back, and my rebuild is complete! My SKR came with a dead X axis - it just wouldn't work in UART mode. For now, I ended up remapping the E1 axis I'm not using as a replacement for X in pins.h. You just swap the pin numbers around. It works!
@@davepedu5896 Nice, glad you got it working.
Great video. Really fancy getting this board to upgrade my Anet A8
Thanks! It's so affordable, why not. ;)
@@ChrisRiley Exactly, I just ordered one along with some A4988's (for now). Will upgrade to TMC's later on. Greetings from Wales :)
Hei man, great vid as always... just installed this board myself,loving it so far....
Great! Seems to be pretty good so far.
@@ChrisRiley Must stay that fine tuning is a PITA... keep having less results then with my 4988 drivers.. ( hint: a video perhaps :) with voltage adjustment in uart mode )
Great board! I really enjoyed. My FlyingBear Tornado 1 got a new life.
I'm glad I could help
Dang Chris, I dig your basement!!!!!
Thanks man!
@@ChrisRiley Hah, mines a dump but happy piles of fun everywhere!! Envious of your organization.
@@alien4x487 Ugh man, I need to do so much more.
@@ChrisRiley preaching to the choir now lol. great content btw.
@@alien4x487 😀
Hello Chris, Happy Wednesday! Great video! I may try this on my Anet A8!
Hey Charlie, It's so affordable, why not.
Great video Chris, this should help alot of people out!
Thanks Simmo, I hope so.
I think that junction deviation is an interesting topic for a new video, particularly with a 32bit board that can actually handle it. I personally don‘t really understand it to full extend
That is for sure some testing I want to do.
@@ChrisRiley nice! I'm definitely thrilled for that!
All I know is that it made my printer less "jerky" while not affecting print time much. Quality is about the same, I'd say... There is a good article about jd with a formula where you can put in your accel and jerk values and it gives a jd value.. but as I said, a vid would be very nice
Thanks for this - considering grabbing an skr 1.3 now :)
You're welcome! At this price, it's hard not to buy one.
@@ChrisRiley true that - just a bummer that I upgraded to an mks gen l 2 months ago 😅 still, this is so fairly priced that I'm considering it just for the fun of it
Just to be clear, you do not need a y cable. You can just redefine the E0/E1 slots.
Correct.
Good job. 32bit is a quite interesting topic. 😃
Yes it is, I enjoyed making this video. Thank you for watching.
Great content as always Chris! Interested to see if this board lives up to its potential and know where to go for the important info. Thanks.
Happy to help
Awsome man!thank you...!i just tag your video on my group so anyone can see it!
Awesome, thank you!
Wow , i was lost immediately, off to find more basic videos on TMCs lol
Sorry man! There is a lot of good content out there.
@@ChrisRiley hah, yeah I need to step back then revisit this, I am just now learning whats available, did not even know there were 3 modes for tmc drivers..., was like woah woah
Txs a lot for your informative installation. I followed your instructions and am happy to say everything works to a point. My screens on same readings as yours so quite happy and proud being a 1st timer at doing a modification like this. My only question being installing Merlin. My machine is tronxxy branded as a Prusa i3. I know. I would like to know what settings to change in Marlin as apposed to your machine. I believe your settings will not work on mine. Your valuable knowledge and assistance would be great appreciated. Just to inform you, I have never done any marlin configurations and uploads, so I will be watching and pausing your video. Thanks Wayne.
I would start here, github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/config you can take a config that might already work for your machine and copy the config files.
Thanks for putting this video together. It has been very helpful in setting up my SKR v1.3. I bought 4 TMC2208 drivers for this, but then changed the Z & E0 to A4988. First I was going to change them to DRV8825 but after some problems with those I switched to A4988 on those 2 drivers. My main reason for this response is that I set the VREF on an old RAMPS board 1st for the DRV8825 drivers mostly because it was easier, but when I checked the voltage again after putting the DRV8825 chips in the SKR board they were a lot lower voltages. It could have been I had an iffy ramps board. Have you tried checking the voltage of drivers on different boards?
On the cheaper boards, voltage seems to be a little inconsistent when measured from the drivers. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a difference board to board.
I like that you put ferrules on your power wires. Much better than loose or soldered which can loosen over time. Did that to mine when I installed an MKS.
As you said, 32bit permits Ludicrous speeds however I'm trying to think of a situation where it could be used. Would it be for large nozzle sizes and huge, low detail prints? I'll admit my experience is limited.
Great video. 30min isn't all that long except for the time it takes you to edit.
Am I wrong in assuming uart mode just gives diagnostics and the ability to adjust the vref via gcode?
Oh, the reset button would need an easy way to push it built into any STL file for an enclosure, IMO.
Thanks! I really like those connectors, so much nicer. Really as far as detail I don't think 32 will matter much. I see it more for corexy and Delta computing. Correct, UART just gives you some monitoring and control of the mode they run in and VRFE.
Hi Chris. Your videos are awsome. You provide enough information that even a novice like me find it easy to follow. Can I ask if you could do a I stall video of SKR on a Cr10s Pro
I don't have one of those, but it is going to be really close to the Ender3 work we are doing. THanks for watching!
I have one of these coming as well as some 2208 for testing.
Cool James, they are pretty cool for the money it seems.
Chris Riley looks like it. Starting my 32 bit board experiments.
@@ChrisRiley Seems like it. Have you found it to be better than 8 bit boards? if so how?
@@ZebraandDonkey I haven't done a lot of testing to compare yet. I have been able to stall an 8 bit board speed wise. 32bit handled it just fine.
Quick tip everybody, the (-) and (+) on the 12v in are REVERSED from the heat bed. So I connected the heated bed first and then screwed the power wires in to match. Fired it up, heard ZZZZZZZZZZZZZTTTTT and the green LED is coming on but nothing is responding at all. The firmware card isn't being accessed, the 2004LCD isn't turning on. Fedora is not registering that I plugged anything in. I have a replacement board already on route. I only hope that I didn't burn the TMC2208v3.0s out, too, because a set of those is $10 more than the board,
Thanks for the tip, I was kinda surprised it was flipped like that.
Another great video Chris. I've been using this board since it was released, great value for money. But I wouldn't recommend the Bigtreetech TMC's the FYSETC boards have a better thermal design.
Newer bigtreetech tmcs are even better than fysetc! Giant thermal pad, and uart pad pre-soldered from shop.
@@LoKuSKus77 Just looked. Yeah I agree, the V3.0 is much better. I see it also now has the chip on the correct side (underside) of the board.
Nice! Thanks, I'll have to check those out.
So important videos.... thank you
Thanks!
one of the best explanations! and thx to show atom, its 1000timers better than the arduino software. subscribed 👌🏻 👍🏻
Thanks for the sub! Also, check out VScode.
Great video, very helpful but after upgrading marlin with Your help my control button works the other way around (turning it clockwise leads to decrease value) I wonder if there is a way to reverse it
Percussor S. I’m assuming your controller utilizes a rotary encoder?
Configuration.h: Line 1620, change;
//#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION
To
#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION
Compile and flash firmware.bin to your skr v1.3
@@makmillion Thanks a lot, it worked! In mine code it was line 1643 but was pretty easy to find when I knew what to look for. Thanks again
Awesome, thanks for the help here.
Hi Chris, you always produce fantastic videos, I only watch yours because you explain things properly, I have installed one of these boards and a 2.8 touch screen in my Wanhao Duplicator I3. What would be the correct settings now to use in Cura. Hope you can help.
cheers, Paul
Hey Paul, you mean the slicer settings? If they have a Dup i3 setting already in Cura I would go with that, the board really shouldn't change much.
Thanks for the reply Chris, I do use the wanhao cura edition, I have discovered several flaws with the Wanhao dup i3 and will share them with you for your thoughs and views but I need to take pics first. cheers. Paul
Thank you so much it'a really helpful
You're welcome 😊
You just fried my mind, I wnder how many times you have to do what you did to get that fast. Well I subscribed and if I watch it enough times I will learn from you. Thank you Chris your a 3d printing guru. I thought Trinimic drivers where when the printer bottomed out so to speak on all its axes to find its limits, is this not so?
Sensorless homing you mean? Yes, TMC's do that on the 2130 and the 2209.
Ya thats what I mean. Thanks. Does someone manufacture a control box with all the goodness inside for some of these old printers like the CR-10s, like touch screen, new power suply, and 32 bit board, and cooling fans?
@@landlocked4771 You know, that's a great idea to offer something like that, but I don't think anyone does.
My only concern is if there is easy access to the SPI to use external devices like the MAX31855
I didn't see any extra pins, but there pinout isn't that great. So it might be there.
Fantastic video!
Thanks John!
This is super neat... If it works with OctoPrint I'm gonna have to get one of these to upgrade from my RAMPS board.
Cool little board, it works with Octoprint for sure.
Bigtreetech SKR mini E3 seems to be out 2 months ago. It has 2209 drivers and all integrated...but as 2209:s seem to have ran out almost globally they ship at end of october this year...
Marlin 2.0.x seems to have support also for that. Just ordered it from their ae store as it looked like a good upgrade for CR-10 mini controller board.
@@iikkakonola Yeah, I really want to get my hands on one of those.
i got my hands on one 2 weeks ago, just haven't had the guts to install it yet as i hastily just bought it without researching into specs(d'oh!) and it has max power rating of 180W/12V and 360W/24V. I have a CR-10 mini with 220W heated bed and 40W stock hotend running on 12V. This adds up for 260W power on 12V and the board has 20A fuse, that already is too much for that. I have to dive into the mosfet specs that board has, i think those will go first if i change for a bigger fuse. I have a reddit post here about all this : www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/czg06t/cr10_mini_with_skr_mini_e3/
@@iikkakonola Does the Mini have an external mosfet you can use? That might be the way to go, add one of those in for the bed.
@@ChrisRiley it does not, but i can get it online...so that would make heated bed output act as a signal for the mosfet? That would be clever!
as i commented on your 32 bit video;
great tutorial Chris!
One request though; i feel like you skipped over lots of information in the marlin cofig and just said "i set it to this" but not why, maybe explain the *why* in a bit more detail in fututre videos? :) Thanks!
Thanks! Yes, I did a step by step for 1.1.8 and I intend to do one when 2.0 is officially released.
Impressive board/Marlin
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks Asger!
So, 32 bit is nice, but I'm not convinced. 8 bit seems to work fine for me (I'm not in that big a hurry). So why would we want to consider 32 bit systems if we are ultimately limited by how fast we can lay down plastic in the first place?
I look to it more for corexy and delta computation rather than fast i3 processing.
I bought an SKR v1.3 after watching your video and was amazed to find 2-3V of ripple! on the 5V switching power supply even though the 24V input had only 120mV of ripple going in. They do seem to have put some thought into the filter network on the 3.3V supply (not that it helps much with right around 1V of ripple), but there's no such network on the 5V supply. Just curious if this is typical, or if my board is just defective--have you tried putting an oscilloscope on yours?
I wish I had an oscilloscope! I would guess this is probably pretty typical, the components on these aren't the highest of quality.
Okay, okay, I'll order one. Was just gonna go back to RAMPS to replace my wonky MKS SBASE, but I just ordered one of these.
You're welcome. ;)
I believe as of Marlin 2.0.3 the 2208 on the extruder is still not compatible with Linear Advance 1.5. When the GCode tells Marlin about the linear advance, the extruder stops moving. It was reported back on the GitHub and there is a solution which implies editing some files (not configuration.h or configuration_adv.h). However, as far as I know, the solution has not yet been implemented. That's why I'm still using A4988 (I think) on extruders on my Marlin driven machines.
Hey Felix, we are actually talking with Scott on Lu from Marlin on the Friday hangout. I will ask them. It will be on this channel. ruclips.net/channel/UCPOu2PrCF3J3j05L9jlEsMQfeatured
Really curious why you chose the 2208 vs 2130. I'd love a video showing how to get sensorless homing setup!
I only went with 2208 because I have never had them in a video before. I have 3 videos out there on 2130's.
Chris Riley touche. Thank for the reply. Really enjoy your content.
Tmc2208 has stealthchop v2 (more torque for same current). If are not gonna use stallguard (endstopless) they are better/newer than tmc21xx
Another great video Chris. The one thing I have not seen in your videos is how to install the correct usb driver. Is anyone else having issues installing the usb driver on Win8.1? I have turned off driver signing but still cannot get the correct driver to install. I'd love to test Chris's tutorial.
Hey Charles, it seems like a ton of people are having this same issue. I am working to try and reproduce it now.
@@ChrisRiley Awesome! I have both the SKR 1.3 and the SKR PRO and both are a headache. The RE-ARM installed by disabling driver signing but that didn't work for the SKR. BTW, when buying through Amazon the tech support is much better.
@@charlescarey6924 Maybe you can help me test this. I can't reproduce this on windows 10. Load this file on your SKR SD card and reboot the board. Does this make the USB work? drive.google.com/open?id=1QUhBeQ2siyWsqETnqkKtBEyBw4yeNnJ5
@@ChrisRiley SKR sent a test usb driver if you are interested. I have moved back to RE-ARM. BIGTREE is just too flaky to spend time on. Maybe in the future when they've matured a bit I'll return.
@@charlescarey6924 Yeah, send a link I will take a look.
A big thank you for this great video from Germany in the "old" world. I considered to get a Re-Arm after your video on that. But you changed my mind. There is one question I have you might to answer. Based on your video for the "controllable" Hotend Fan which works great on my RAMPS I am wondering if you can explain me how to set it up on the SKR. Which Pin can I use? I'm not so deep into electronics to figure out by myself. Thanks again, I love your videos.
If you only have 1 extruder, i think you can hook your fan up to HE1 and it should work as expected.