TMC2209 Stepper Drivers - Bigtreetech - SKR 1.3 - Install - Chris's Basement
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- Опубликовано: 19 июл 2024
- In this one we check out the TMC2209 drivers, these are the Bigtreetech version. We install them on a SKR 1.3 board using the UART connectivity. Another great reason to check out this board.
00:00 Intro
00:44 Driver Board Overview
04:10 Main Board Overview & Install
07:54 Marlin Setup
15:00 Testing and Tweeking
19:36 Conclusion
Link to drivers on Ali Express:
geni.us/B8c5kuy
Link to SKR 1.3 on Ali Express:
geni.us/jCK7
Bigtreetech github:
github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTRE...
Marlin firmware 2.0:
marlinfw.org/
Pronterface terminal tool:
www.pronterface.com/
Video where we setup SKR 1.3 for 2208's:
• BigtreetechTFT35 V3.0 ...
Another video to setup SKR 1.3:
• SKR v1.3 Mainboard Ins...
Config from this video:
drive.google.com/open?id=1Rm4...
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2yrs old and it's more informative than the rest here on RUclips. Thank you sir .
I appreciate that!
@@ChrisRiley still struggling but I'm on your everything z axis vid now . Homing issue but I'll get it soon .
Timing is everything... I bought a set of Bigtreetech parts for my new CoreXY printer which include the SKR 1.3, 2209's and the TFT35 V3.0 controller a while back but have not had the time/energy to figure out how they fit together. Brother Chris to the rescue as he covered it all in his usual thorough manner. Well done and thank you, Chris.
Awesome to hear, thank you for watching and glad the videos help.
mate, this is exactly all the information I was searching for, when I had to order a new board two weeks ago. For now I am still happy with the 2208‘s, but you made me curious about the 2209s next time.
Can‘t believe this video just hit 1.000 views, almost every maker must watch this! Thank you!
Great to hear, I am glad it was helpful.
Just like to say thanks for doing these videos, I was able to swap out a melzi in a Wanhao i3 v2.1 in under an hour with the help of your videos.
Nice! Glad they are helpful.
Good job wrangling/reading the matrix of features, I saw the smile at "if you're not confused now" and immediately wondered how many takes that had taken ;)
Thanks! LOL, I was starting to confuse myself!
Thanks a bunch! This walkthrough makes it so much easier to get the pins correct.
You're welcome, glad it helped you.
Thanks Chris. Great and informative as usual. My 2209s are in the mail so this is my goto install video. I would love to see the use of stall guard 2 on z as a probe. Sounds kool.
Thanks Mark, yeah, I want to give that a try.
Today, I have upgraded the mainboard to the BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 drivers from the stock Anet A8 board. I am absolutely blown away by how much quieter my printer is. Before, I could hear the printer all the way upstairs, now i can barely hear it sitting 2 feet from it. And it runs so smooth now....I like it! Glad I seen your video on the 2209's. Thanks Chris!!
Awesome right!? SO much quieter, thanks for watching!
Thank you for the great review, looking forward to the sensorless bed leveling video 😁
You bet! Yeah, that one should be fun.
@@ChrisRiley I bet it's even more fun doing that on a flexible plate with a magnetic base underneath ;-)
Thanks to your excellent videos, I have now just ordered some Bigtreetech 2209's for my SKR 1.3 to finally upgrade from my A4988's. 😀
Great to hear! You'll love em.
Thanks Chris. I watched other videos on this but only yours got me up and running. Thanks as well to Tobias below. I will also look forward to the 1.4 Turbo and 2209 video as that is the current setup i'm working on.
Awesome, yep, SKR 1.4 videos coming very soon.
2209's are in the mail on their way to me now. I picked them over the 2208 because of the current limit (2A vs 1.4A) so I can stick those beefy StepperOnline guys on my printer and chug the bed around at ludicrous speed. Great vid, your channel is really thorough and you have a great way of explaining these things. Keep it up!
LUDICROUS SPEED!!! Thanks, man, I appreciate that.
Killer timing! I just ordered some to replace my Wanhao i3 motherboard!
Nice!
Perfect explanation... Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!
your videos are great man! surprised you don't have more subscribers! quality content!
Thank you!
Great video, perfect timing.
Thanks Darrell!
Thank you! This helped me a lot debugging sensorless homing.
Great! Thanks for watching!
This video just lead me over the edge and made me buy 5 TMC2209 V1.2 from BigTreeTech. Wish me luck :)
Good luck!
Excellent information concisely delivered. Just what I like.
I appreciate that!
Awesome Video! Yup, I gotta get me some 2209s... This will surely help my skr setup...
Thanks Mike, yep, they are the best I have seen so far.
Awesome as always
Thank you!
Hey Chris. I installed my BTT TMC 2209's yesterday. Finally got a chance to test them today when the grandchildren went home. Holy hell my steppers are quiet! Now I know what I was missing when running my A4988's. Just got to re-build my X axis to replace a badly flat spotted mini V wheel and my AM8 will be back in business (albeit much quieter). I have a BTT Mini UPS on the way now too, to hopefully sort out power outages, so Marlin will resume better. Greetings from Wales 😀
Hey Brian, yes, it is incredible how quiet they make the printer.
Great video Chris. I just ordered a SKR 1.4 + 2209's to use with Klipper / Moonraker / Fluidd. Plan on doing the setup using KIAUH which appears to be the "new" way to do things. Would love to see you do a quick tutorial on that approach.
Thanks for the idea, I'll look into it!
Chris Thank you for the very informative videos. With your help I was able to get my TMC2209 and SKR 1.4T up and running. As a note, STEALTHCHOP for E & Z I did comment out. STEALTHCHOP for my BMG style extruder seemed to be creating noise with the stepper during retracts. Geoff
Great! Nice, I have heard others have better results turning it off for E. Glad it's working for you.
Thanks Chris for this video. Very helpfull as usual ! Love your channel ! Did you already test or review the SKR 1.4 ?
Thank you! The 1.4 stuff is coming up very soon, I will be finishing it tomorrow.,
Thank for a great video . I also would like to see a video with the Skr v1.4 turbo.
Cool, I will work on it.
Hi Chtis thank you for the instructions everything works goooooooood!
You're welcome!
Amazing how far stepper drivers have come in the last 5 years. Thank you for another great "How Too" video.
Thanks John! For real, these things are getting really impressive.
If you want to probe the bed with your nozzle, increase probing speed to 60 mm/s and reduce sensitivy bump
Right on, I want to see what happens for sure.
Myyyy herooo, looking for a tutorial for 2 weeks and it is almost imposible to find information. I even thought asking you to make a tutorial ajjajajaja thanksssssss
Niceeeee! Great to hear, I am glad this info will be helpful for others.
This is a different kind of article than I was looking for. That's OK, it was easy enough: replace my A8988s with TCM2209s, putting the pot's toward the RAMPS power terminals, reverse the stepper connectors, and set Vref to about .8 volts. The new drivers quieted my Makerfarm Pegasus effectively, so I'm satisfied. Have fun, those of your making the more elaborate upgrade!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing
Very good timing. Again ;-)
Nice! I love it! I am always glad when these videos are helpful.
Chris... you are an absolute miracle worker
Ha! Thank you
Thanks Chris!!😀😀
Thanks Mark!
Great video Chris. Looking forward to a senseless Z probing video with these....
Thanks! We will see what I can do.
No rush bro, i got mine up kinda. Working out the kinks. Mostly sensativity.
It was quite some time since you setup sensorless homing. How well has it fared? Has it been reliable? And would you trust using it with a glass bed 🙂
Sensorless homing works well on certain printers, but not well on others. You have to get it just right, the firware does get better and better as we go. I still wouldn't trust sensorless Z with a glass bed.
Hey Chris, im into rebuilding 3ds cube 3, to use marlin and running skr1.4 with tmc2209, i cant get the sensorless probing to work...(not be able to Configure correctly??) does the diag pin need to be connected to zmin signal pin?
I appreciate your videos, very informative, keep up with the good work
On a 1.4 as long as you have all the pins on (not clipped) sensorless homing should work. Marlin just released 2.0.5 that fixes some issues with sensorless homing.
THANK YOU FOR ALL THIS
Thanks for watching!
Chris, is it possible to do a install/config video about the SKR 1.4 (turbo) with TMC2209 steppers?
I would be very thankful!
Yes, I will work on it.
I second that. I have a SKR 1.4 Turbo and the TMC2209-1.2 lying around here, and I just can't get the drivers to run in UART mode. Pronterface always gives me "Error: All LOW" on m122.
Hence the interest ;)
OK, I figured this out: The UART-Connection only works with 12V connected.
I have it working now for a great deal. I have a creality CR-10S and have now installed the SKR 1.4 Turbo board with TMC2209-1.2 drivers in UART mode. I also activated sensorless homing. I'm able to move all axes in both directions, but I can't get my ABL probe (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX-5V - inductive NPN) to work for doing the Z-homing. It starts the Z-home procedure and is going down, but it won't stop when the probe is triggered. M119 says that the probe is triggered or open, depending on the state, but whatever I change in Marlin it won't stop and will crash into the plate.
By the way, I'm using the Marlin 2.1.x development version.
Any ideas?
@@qwerrrrta Interesting find.
Hi Chris,
awesome video!
I plan to build a DIY printer (maybe) and think about mainboards, what's your recommendation? I might want to build a laser toolhead or so.
Thank you a lot!
It's really hard to beat the SKR 1.3 for the money. For the $20, it's worth a try.
@@ChrisRiley thanks
Chris, what software are you using to make the edits to the configuration.h file?
That is VScode and notepad ++
Chris is the best as usual.
Thanks!
Very helpful. I am thinking to get a SKR 1.4 with 2209 drivers. Chris, what do you think about dual Z motors with using E1 as you mentioned to configure to level the bed? As in my CR10 sometime the Z axis gets tilted on one side. I was thinking of using two endstops if possible but looks like I can use sensorless homing for Z as well? Will definitely have to set something on Z both sides so it does not hit hot end.
Yeah, that is going to be tricky. I haven't tested the Z sensorless homing yet. It would be cool if it would run up to the top and level before every print. Adding the second E1 Z driver shouldn't matter to much. Should be the same results.
Wow I am working on this Board so this Tut came just in time Thanks Chris !!!
Nice! Great to hear, thanks Ron!!!
Hi Chris,
Thanks for this great video! Very helpful.
I'm trying to setup TMC2209 drivers for a project not a 3d printer, so Marlin would not be involved.
Can you explain what signal the stallguard homing sends when it's triggered? Is it a code through UART?
Thanks for your help
You bet! Unfortunately, that is over my head. I would have to refer that to Trinamic.
Do you know the difference between stallguard 2 and stallguard 4? I tried to find out on the trinamic web site but I couldn't find any information about stallguard 4, only 2.
I really don't, but I might be able to get them to fill us in. I will try.
Stallguard 4 also works in stealthchop mode
Hello. What is the VREF setting for 17HS4401S Nema Motor and 1/8 stepper stepper of Tmc2209 stepper motor driver board? Thank you.
That's a 1.7 amp motor, it would depend on your load, but 800 would be a great starting point.
THANK YOU!!
You're welcome!
Hey Chris, great video. I have a skr 1.3 with 2208's uart mode. I'm interested in using linear advance and understand the 2208 doesn't work with that. I'm thinking for $12 changing my e0 driver to the 2209. Am I missing anything?
I am not sure exactly, I can confirm my 2209's do work with it, so I think that is all you would have to do.
hi chris , I have the same configuration stealhshop work perfectly but when i switch tmc2209 to spreadcycle i have high pitch sound ?
Yeah, that is usually chopper timing causing that. They are a little quieter at 24v. See if changing this setting helps. #define CHOPPER_TIMING CHOPPER_DEFAULT_12V
Hi Chris Great Video but then again i have been using a lot of your videos for education as I just started in the hobby. Quick question should I leave the 2 jumpers off the booard (skr v1.3) if i am not sure about using sensorless homing or put them in for future. will it effect my endstops and such Thanks
Yes, it will impact your endstop, if the cap is on, the endstop will always be triggered. Maybe just leave the cap on 1 pin for safe keeping.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris
Great video. I am upgrading my 1 year old Ender 3 with an skr 1.3 (unfortunately I hit buy a couple of days before I saw an announcement about 1.4). I followed a few different source for instructions and configurations, yours seemed the most complete but I ran into one build issue. Atom / Platform.io failed to compile TMC_debug. This is my first time using Atom. I don't seem to have the right library. It completed with TMC_debug commented out. any suggestions?
Thanks! Atom has been super buggy for me lately. I have switched to using VScode.
hello, I have a question regarding the choice of a driver, my need is to install 2 X motors and 2 Y motors on my Anet A8 plus printer, which is equipped with A4988 drivers. Which driver do you recommend knowing that the drivers will have to control 2 motors so double intensity or voltage. I am aware that it will be necessary to change the motherboard evening an MKS or a Beegtreetech. thank you in advance for your help
The 2209 can probably do two just fine. If you want to be sure you have enough juice take a look at the TMC5160, just remember is it an SPI interface.
Great video again, I use a sponge to reduce the sensorless homing crashing impact, and start from the too sensitive setting and work downwards
Nice! great idea, I was thinking some felt pads or something would be a great add.
Great walk through Chris. I've had the SKR 1.3 and TMC 2209s on the Borg for a while now, they have made it so quiet and the sensorless homing works perfectly, although I do still have the occasional skipping on X when homing but that's just a little tweak to the sensitivity, which I'll do soon.
I too have a parallel coupling for dual Z motors, but I'd rather have them on separate drivers if possible, although that could introduce an imbalance where the Z motors could fall out of sync, what do you think? Would you consider doing a video on setting it up?
Currently I use the BL Touch but would still be very interested to see sensorless Z homing and what you think of it's reliability.
Hey Spike! I have thought about doing a video on separate Z motor drivers, that could be interesting. It also has some downfalls. It might make good content. I will start looking into it. With the 2 drivers, if they weren't really close to the same current you might get slow creep. Not sure, we need to test......Science!
@@ChrisRiley Very good point, even the differences in cable could cause creep and with bigger Z heights, that would only get worse.
Thank you for this video!
Very informative... and convenient since I recently got an skr 1.3 and tmc2209s lol
Nice! Glad it helps out.
Mr. Riley. Your videos are amazing man and really well done. I really enjoy your videos dude.
Thank you! Glad you like them!
@Chris Riley, is this printer 12v ? Do you experience any whines when moving higher speeds ? For example my custom printer running skr v1.3 and tmc2209 or tmc2130 are experiencing whines when doing infill which is faster movement than external perimeters. Ender 3 which is 24v and has tmc2208 do not do this at all.
Yes, they are a bit louder at 12v, especially in spread cycle. If you set the 12v option in Marlin it's a bit better.
I see this was already mentioned in the comments and wondered if you figured it out yet?
The instructions for the SKR 1.3/1.4 say for 2209's you need to cut the diag pin if using mechanical endstop on that driver. I assume you didn't cut the pin for Z. Is the bed level probe seen as a mechanical endstop?
I didn't cut the pin and I would think the jumper would control this. I am going to test this again. Yes, the probe should be just like a mechanical switch.
@@ChrisRiley After looking into it more, it's only the SKR 1.4 board that you have to cut the pin if you don't want to use stallgaurd. A step backwards from the 1.3. I'm not sure why they did that.
Hi. Thx for the Vid. I have mine skr 1.3 with tmc2209 and an tft35 here. I use an Sidewinder X1. Do you have an config for me? What must i change? thx
Thanks! I'm not really sure on the X1, I have never had to do that config. I am sure someone has one online.
Hi Chris, so do I not need to adjust my vref if I were to install it on the my Skr 1.4 Turbo in UART mode? Thanks in advance
No, just use M906 to adjust it, start around 800.
Hi Chris. I am a bit confused about these skr mainboards. I have read that the E3 mini is the most easy one to install in my ender 3, same layout just a replug and go. The thing is that I find many many many bad comments about the board breaking quickly. So I am looking into the skr 1.3 or 1.4 now. Is there any board you prefer about these 3? I would really like to start printing alot more silently. Thanks
I have had good luck will all these boards, but I have heard people have had issues. I have had the most luck with the 1.3 board I would say, but I really like the mini because it fits in the case.
thanks been looking to upgrade my board in all my printers now I feel like i can do it.
Sweet! It's great I can help, it is an awesome upgrade.
hi chris i have a question about heat on the tmc2209 drivers and standard nema 17 motors. before i used cheap tmc2100 and they always ran hot i think they were doomed to fail. i did have a fan blowing on them though but ive had some fail. i believe the BTT tmc2209 heat up less and mine will have heatsinks but im wondering if they still need cooling? i dont think they would but i dont want to kill them. thanks in advance
More cooling is never a bad thing, but you probably won't need it if you have heatsinks. Even better if you run them at 24v. Try to dial in your currents as low as you can and you should be okay with out a fan.
Great video thanks. Maybe you can help with this. I am building a printer and the hot end / carriage will travel past the edge of the bed before it will hit the end of travel in the x and y axis. Will I need to change any other setting for homing?
You mean it doesn't stop when the endstop is triggered?
Not actually sure at the moment. I’m in the process of building a printer and I made the frame large enough for a 300mm heat bed but right now I’m putting a smaller 210 (give or take) bed on it. It appears that the carriage will be able to travel to the left (view from the front) farther off the bed area then just to the edge. So I was wondering how one would adjust for the extra distance before the x carriage hit the frame hard stop for homing. Thx
@@dougw9224 Yes, so you will set the X/Y min to a negative number. 0,0 would be the corner of the bed. Anything more than that toward the endstop would be the negative setting.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Hi Chris is the Marlin firmware stored on the Mainboard or on the Micro SD card. Can I transfer the card to exactly the same SKR board as I have a problem with the board in my Ender 3
It's loaded from the SD card, but stored on the board. You should have a .CUR file on the SD card, if you rename that to a .bin then you can use that to reload your firmware to a new board.
Hi Chris, thank you for your informative videos they have been a great resource. I have my skr 1.3 with btt tmc2209 v1. 2 and original pinda 2 on my mks2.5s (mini rambo made magic smoke) marlin 2.1.2 and x and y sensorless homing works but when I try to home z it just lifts up a couple of mm and stops. Pinda is on zmin firmware is modified as per your instructions, but no luck with z calibration. I have not cut any diag pins from the steppers or removed the pull up resistor on z min so I was wondering if you could share any wisdom on how to resolve this problem. Oh it happens even if z is parallel set up off one stepper or split to a second z drive on e1.
Cheers!
Hello, yes, it's probably the pinda triggering in the opposite way. It thinks it's always triggered. Use a terminal, something like pronterface and run a M119. Does it say Z is triggered? Hold some metal up to it and run it again. If it is flipped set z endstop and z probe to the opposite, probably true. Let me know if that works.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris, thank you for your help, your advice did the trick, it was triggering so I set the Z endstop and z probe to false as per your advice and now it homes and bed levels perfectly, My Prusa is back from the dead!
One caveat, I did have to change the skr 1.3 pin files and run the pinda from the servo pin P_20 for this to work
One question regarding the fllament runout sensor, is that supposed to be triggered or not?
Thank you again for your help, if you or anyone would like to look at my config files just let me know
Hi Chris, can you give me a little heads up on changing voltages on sensor less homing? I have both X & y working on a Hyper cube with 2209s on a SKR v1.4. Each axis homes really well individually but when homing all the Y homing clunks a little, it does not crash I cannot resolve with the sensitivity, seems much higher on the V1.4 turbo board at around 130. Clearly something to do with the Core XY set up but I have not figured out yet. I thought reducing voltages on homing might be the way. I have tried dual physical stops so the carriage homes evenly on both sides but this also does not make any difference. Thanks again Boothy
Hi Chris, I have just adjusted the voltages, it was staring me in the face, apologies for the request. I have found a sweet balance of 175 for the X current home and 150 for the Y current home. However on initial homing after switching on the Y axis still clunks a little but thereafter on repeat it is fine. I will now start looking at the driver current themselves. I did not realise that both sensor less homing sensitivity and the Driver currents can be individually changed directly from the printer on screen menu in Marlin from the config , advanced settings, TMC drivers menu, which is so much easier for testing. Best Boothy
Hey Stephen, I am glad you got it sorted out. Take care.
Can you use something like BL touch and still enable sensorless homing for Z axis as a precaution? As i hate when the hotends slams to my bend... it once bent the heatguard.
I think you could, I haven't tested it yet, but it should work that way.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. Ill look into it when i get my new board installed. Would be really good to have a failsafe, double z motors have a lot of power to bend stuff.
Nice video one more time Chris... i like how you explain everything...
Great to hear, thank you for watching!
I'm getting an BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo for my Tarantula Pro, I want to put in updated drivers, but I need it to be somewhat easy, I'd like to just drop them in. Is 2209s easier than 2208s? How about the higher series with no pot adj, SPI? Any suggestions? Thx
I would just go with 2209's, the BTT board makes them really easy to use.
Hi Chris, can I put these the same way on a mks gen l v2.0?
I think so, shouldn't be an issue, but I am not sure that board has integrated driver support. You might need to use some jumpers to hook it up.
Hey Chris, do you know what the difference is between SPI Mode VS. SD Mode on TMC5160T PRO? I can’t find any information or videos that explains what the SD Mode does.
I looked at the manual, I can't find anything other than SPI mode, not sure what SD mode might be.
Hi. How about SPI?
Is UART or SPI better?
(i have the exact same board and drivers. drivers are the version 1.3 though)
Thanks!
Really for what we use them for, they are about the same SPI has more functionality and is faster, but again, on drivers not going to matter much.
If you have 2 x Z motors connected via an adapter to a single driver, when changing HAS_TRINAMIC section, do you need to double the Z_Current ?? e.g. from 800 to 1600
No, 800 is more than enough for 2.
Hi I would love to ask a question.
If I use stand alone STEP / DIR mode how can I set the tmc to perform a full step each time?
You would pull MS1 MS2 and MS3 jumpers off, that would put them in full step.
@@ChrisRiley there is no ms3
@@idogedanken9999 Which board?
Hey Chris I got my SKR 1.3 finally however I am having issues with the 2209s. I get "Error: All LOW" when I perform M112 I read in on of the comments that UART only works w 12V is this true? I have the ender 3 Pro that's running at 24v.
Thank for your help.
Nah, they should work the same at 12v and 24v, but error All Low is one I haven't seen before, not sure what that is trying to tell you.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the reply. I returned those drivers and I'm waiting for my replacements.
And another great video!! Although I followed your instruction to the letter, at the end I got a TMC CONNECTION ERROR. As soon as I plugged the board on 12v the error disappeared!! Any thoughts?
Thanks again and keep up the good work!!!
Make sure your vref jumper is of of the USB pins. They probably just didn't have enough power.
@@ChrisRiley thanks mate. I think that was exactly the problem!!
@@andreas43 :)
Hey Chris! Im building a prusa clone myself and am planning on a skr and 2209 drivers. Are you willing to share your firmware?
Sure! I will add a link to the description.
@@ChrisRiley Did I miss it? I'm not seeing it.
@@jimmymckracken305 Here is the one from this video . drive.google.com/open?id=1Rm47ca2TrMPMojHz2qFs-aW7YZ3cEBTc
Hello Chris, i just downloaded your config from this video to compare my configuration from Marlin with yours. But in your configuration all driver are defined as TMC2208. Can you tell me why? I new in this buisness. :)
That firmware was from the previous 1.3 video and the version didn't 100% support 2209's, but the TMC2208 setting works. Now, the new version of Marlin does. I would go with a newer version of Marlin instead of this one, it's going to be a lot easier to use.
Hi Chris, first, thanks for this video and the previous for the SKR 1.3 Mainboard.
I have the SKR 1.3 with (ERYONE) TMC2209s. Now, if possible any suggestion on this: When I tried the sensorless homing option (testing X), the motor does not move. I can move forward or backward but when press the home button it does not move at all and X value resets to -6. Same when testing Y. I tried changing sensitivity and current but made no difference.
When I did the configuration for mechanical endstops it did move on demand and homing as expected. I can live with this but I was hoping to get the sensorless going.
Hey Marco, you might be hitting a Marlin bug. It's hard to say because all the different driver boards are configured a bit differently. Some of the board have to be soldered to get them into UART mode.
I had a similar issue with the BTT TMC2209 and the SKR 1.3 initial install went fine w sensorless homing. Did a benchie to test. Fired up the printer the next day to print. Attempting to home any axis individually the axis moves slowly then fails. Tried 2.0.4.4 then 2.0.5.3 nothing worked I reinstalled the endstops and removed the jumpers for the Endstops disabled Sensorless Homing and reflashed and all is well. It's either a bug in Marlin or something with these 2209s I've read in a few forums that there appears to be some issues with some of the 2209s and sensorless homing.
I figured out what the issue is, Chris said not to do this at the beginning of his video. I was powering my board via 5v from my Pi when you eventually turn on the powersupply something wonky occurs causing this issue. I connected my Pi via 3 wire directly to the SKR 1.3 changed the jumper around to power the board via the 24v feed reflashed w sensorless homing and everything is working fine. Rebooted several times no issues. Also I noticed my sensitivity were way less than when I had the jumper on 5V for it's power. Awesome work again Chris thanks so much.
@@oralallen82 Glad you found it man, I hope all is well.
Hi Chris do I need to snip the diag pin if I don’t want senseless homing as installing on a delta thanks
Depends on the board, if it's not an SKR 1.4, then no.
I installed the tmc2209 on the 4 axis and it's set (Driver Current)
x: 800
y: 800
z: 800
E1: 800
And the driver ref v I put 1.25 is correct?
Note: They are moving very fast and making noise.
The vref at the drive will report this when in UART, correct. 800 shouldn't cause them to move faster, it could be another setting.
I'd just like to second your comment about playing with sensor-less homing on z to use it as an abl sensor. That would be pretty cool if it worked reliably.
The torque on a Z lead screw is so high compared to a belt axis I can't see Z using sensorless homing.
That's like waiting for parts to be destroyed. One wrong setting and smash. Broken.
@@Deneteus Not any different than x or y and so far it seems to work a treat on them.
@@hightde13 X & Y don't typically have a piece of glass or a hot end nozzle to smash into. The worst that ever happens with X & Y is it hitting a support.
Yeah, this one could get interesting.
One big reason to move from 2208's to 2209's is Linear Advance. From what I've read, the 2208's are not compatible with Linear Advance within Marlin.
Correct. From experience I can say that 2208 with LA results in a non-functional extruder. Did read about some possible fixes, but haven't tried them yet. It's easier to move to 2209 ;-)
2208 work in UART mode. You only have issues, when using Standalone-mode. Also the SQUARE_STEPPING option helps.
All you need to do is changing this setting from 0 to 1 --: #define MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE 1 There is other resons for changing to 2209, LA is not one of them.
Good to know LA is working on the 2208 cause I have a ton of them. LOL
Hi Chris!
how did you wire the inductive probe on the skr 1.3? I have a 5V NPN NO probe and i can't seem to get it to work.
I just hook mine up the the Z min endstop pins and they work. Might be a bad sensor. I would check the board with a meter make sure that pin has 5v output.
@@ChrisRiley hmm, ill try ordering a new probe. Thanks!
Great information I’m waiting on my SKR 1.3 and 2209s currently from AliExpress
Nice! Glad I got it out in time! ;)
I just wanted to verify that the Bigtreetech TMC2209 dont require any soldering for UART mode. Is this correct?
yes is correct
Yep, I second that. :)
How does it compare with TMC2660 (Duet 2 controller board) in terms of noise and current ? It will be perfect if Duet supports the pluggable driver. thx
The 2660 will be just as quiet as the 2209, 2660 can handle 2.8amp, so it can support larger motors if needed.
@@ChrisRiley thx so much for your promptly reply. : )
Hey Chris, been trawling through your vids trying to learn. I've got my first printer and it's way too loud to use except when i'm out, so everyone says "just upgrade to 2209". I can solder but when it comes to all the code and firmware I'm terrified. Do you have an 'absolute beginners' suggestion ?
Much obliged!
Hey, so it depends what type of printer you have. I would recommended doing stand alone drivers/or step dir mode as they call it. That would mean no firmware updates, again, depending on the printer you have. Check this one out. ruclips.net/video/ywscQehQ80M/видео.html
@@ChrisRiley thank you!!!
HI how do I install these on a SKR PRO? also how do I set an SKR pro to now run my ender 5
as when I press home it just shoots off and crashes into the frame and the bed comes right up to tip
which scrapes along the glass, same as if I press print I have to press emergency stop
I cant print nothing and cant find any guides vids or help anywhere do you know how I can get my printer working?
I would have to look at your config, you have a pretty custom setup.
i seen this vedio over 10 times , you give many information . i like this chanel
i have one more quastion : you have 2 z motors , how you work with one driver? you have T wire?
Thanks! I use this www.amazon.com/Printer-Accessories-FYSETC-Stepper-Parallel/dp/B07DMCT1V9/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=2+z+motor+adapter&qid=1587658688&sr=8-16
And as always. Great video by the way!
Thanks Greg!
hi i have a skr v1.3 and the tmc2209's in the video and i can not get stealthchop to work in pronterface when stealthchop is enabled in firmware it says it is in spreadcycle for all steppers i have them set up in uart mode atm.
Hmm, stuck in eeprom? Try resetting it. M502 then M500.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the reply i will get back to you when i have done this in the process of printing out all parts for motherboard swap
I'm currently setting these exact TMC2209 from Bigreetech drivers up on an SKR 1.4. Almost done.
Nice! I am still waiting on my 1.4.
Me too!
Hi Chris. I have a problem with fisical endstop with same hardware. With m119 read trigger but the motor does not stop when it touches the switch. Do you have solution?
I have only seen that on some older versions of Marlin 2.0. Have you tried Marlin 2.0.3 yet?
@@ChrisRiley Hi. My Marlin Is bugfix..
@@modelrcitaly Try to upgrade to 2.0.3, that might fix it.
It would be great to see you show the setup of skr 1.4 turbo, 2209 on the SK-GO
I am working on the 1.4 stuff now.
@@ChrisRiley i have just managed to get mine working SKR 1.4 Turbo, 2209s uart mode and sensorless homing but i did have to drop sensitivity down to 110. I'm also using a trulev probe and i did have to cut the diag pin off the Z axis. Im using the Seckit SK-GO :)
@@3DreamDesigns Good deal, glad you got it working.
Hey Chris
really like your videos have just tried to set up my SKR 1.3 with TMC 2209's alls good but my z is moving 10 times what it should if i try 1mm its 10ish if 10mm its like 100. I followed your setup to tmc2208s and then tmc 2209s have downloaded marlin several times to reset back to base. but every time it is the same x and y are good just z is moving to far. what can i check.
Hey, it might be your steps. Marlin defaults to 4000, you need 400. If you send M92 Z400 that will fix it, then you can update it in firmware.
Thank you Chris, that was the culprit now to relevel the bed, again thanks for all you do for 3d printing and for your quick reply to my problem.
Cool Prusa clone. Do you have a video/guide building it?
Thanks! Check tom out here. toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/