love learning from this guy! This community is lucky to have him. best part is he doesn't try to milk $$ out of his viewers by creating a product and a store. he just shares his knowledge and experiences.
You're one of the few RUclipsrs worth watching, very concise, rehearsed, articulate and intelligent. I just finished following a how to guide listed in the SKR V1.4 User Manual, at least the part that worked. I ended up using VSCode with the Merlin branch from BTT Git. Everything worked without tweaking, shame BTT doesn't keep it's manual / how-to current. Oh and thanks for the YT on LowRider! what a hoot! A means to cut aluminum parts out of aluminum sheets for under $500... Save 10 times that on the pre-cut kit for a UltraCruser UL.
Excelent Video, I already installed my skr 1.3 to my ender 3 a month ago. But it was extemly tedious and Hard. No guides where availible at the time. First of All I was a complete beginner to marlin and 3d printing in general I stuggeld Hard.. Got it working after a week through. Tmc2208 and 32bit are rly worth it. Thank u so much for your guide. Anyone trying this there are errors in the official bigtree tech pdf's: Jumper instructins are wrong (solder all pads) Their Version Marlin does not compile at even before Modifikation.
Great video. For people looking to buy new parts BigTreeTech have now released the TMC2209, an upgraded TMC2208 with lower heat generation and inclusion of stallguard
Have you guys fixed your install guide yet? Virtually none of the process for installing the v1.2 was covered as there's this assumption that you can just move the wires from one board to the other without unplugging all of them. And that might work if you have tiny hands, but it's definitely not a safe assumption and there should be some sort of resource provided that clearly shows which wires go where as the pin labels are clearly not accurate.
@Neil Siebenthal That's what I did, but having to depend on that is rather questionable when the silk screening is wrong and wiring it incorrectly can have all sorts of problems. A proper photo is the bare minimum here just so that the end user knows that they've got it right before powering on.
@Neil Siebenthal You were lucky, mine hasn't worked a single time and despite none of the recommendations by tech support working, they're refusing to refund the purchase, won't replace it and can't say how to get it working properly.
you have by far one of the best technical channels I've ever come across. I appreciate your clear instructions, teaching style, and friendly personality. I rarely comment on youtube channels, but i wanted you to know how helpful you are to countless people. I think in one of your videos you mentioned teaching outside of youtube as a career / to students -- It really truly shows. You do amazing work here and i have learned so much from your channel and the time you have spent to share this knowledge Thank you sir!
OMG! What an opus! That was a nice birthday present for me! Having the skr1. 3 in the mail from China, now I know where to go to when it arrives! Thank you so much for this video! Really appreciate all the hard work that went into it. All the best to you down under!
Fantastic video, thank you for all the hard work you did making it. Between you and Chris’s basement I almost understand all this driver stuff except for when should you use them direct or spi or uart? Please help out those of us still not understanding the advantages and disadvantages of each of these. Thank goodness you’re here for us!
as usual great instruction video , your a great asset to the 3d printing community . I have some skr mini1.1 to play with to replace the board on a cctouch . thanks again Micheal
@teaching tech, this was extremely helpful, it did not cover every single thing i was looking for but it got me going in the right direction and i wouldn't even be on square one if not for this information. i bought this mainboard before i even understood how it worked and ive never touched firmware before now, however i feel confident that if nothing else ill figure it out, and my poor little ender will live again and be dubbed the frankenprinter. instead of the BL Touch im hoping to use an inductive probe (only because i have one laying around and designed the extruder carriage with mounts for one) and im using the TMC 2208 drivers in UART since i was not confident im my ability to go with anything more advanced than that yet. im slowly realizing though that the touch would be a better option, and the sensorless homing would be an amazing feature to play with. overall, thank you for making the vide, and i look forward to whatever you do in the future.
Excellent video as always. Note: The microcontroller on the Pro-board (STM32F407) is pin-to-pin compatible with the STM32F427/F437, so it's possible to upgrade the microcontroller to STM32F427 (extra 64KB RAM, 180 MHz instead of 168 MHz, 1MB extra Flash memory, faster GPIO-speed and much higher timer speed). The price of a single STM32F427 is around $5 on eBay. This modification requires that you're able to desolder and solder LQFP100 ICs - or that you know someone who can do it for you. It also requires you to make some adjustments to the firmware, so it takes advantages of the extras (such as raising the clock speed, using the extra memory and taking advantage of the faster timers).
Brilliant guide as always Michael, however be aware that you cannot enable linear advance on the 2130's SPI with stealthchop, it will give you the symptoms of a burnt out extruder motor. Can confirm that by un-commenting linear advance it will return to normal. For anyone else who freaked thinking drivers or board was bad, try commenting out linear advance. :)
Michael first of all a huge thank you, your videos have made my first foray into 3d printing fun and relatively stress free; your videos are always informative (wish Id had teachers like you when I was at school) and always to the point. This one is a god send the amount of work gone into it is hugely appreciated and my next upgrade is skr 1.3 +2208 . I just wish I could afford patreon but I do appreciate you and your channel (Chep and Angus are both pretty awesome as well)
What an amazing guide! I have been struggling to install this board on my Ender 3 for the last two days without success and now I know why. Thanks a million for all your hard work!
Great Video. I used your guidance to install SKR V1.3 in my Ender 3 Pro. I used LV8729 drivers with 128 microsteps. My drivers had 220 resistors, so vref @ .9v on extruder .8 on XYZ. Everything running smoothly, very quiet. Cooling fans are now the loudest part. Thank you for your help.
Finally!!! I was waiting for it for sooooo long ... so long in fact , that I couldn’t resist and somehow managed to do it with a help form BIGTREETECH Facebook group... I’m strongly recommend to join in , if you consider upgrading to SKR ..as those guys are amazing! ...and the BIGTREETECH ( Company which make those boards) is actually responding to the problems ( BTT HOPE ;) To those who read this from the fb group which I just mentioned. I salute you :)
Recently fitted an SKR 1.3 to my Anet A8. Great board at an amazing price. Although I'm gutted my Eryone Resumer 3D won't connect to it 😢 I also switched from Atom to Visual Studio Code. Much better (IMO). The best video yet for the SKR 1.3. One I will be referring back to when needed. Thank you.
An update on the installation of the BLTouch on this board would be nice as there are a lot of differences between this and the vanilla marlin video - thanks!
Great video thanks I have bought one and am just waiting for TMC5160s to put on it i went for these as they are spi but have stealthchop 2. Great videos helping me learn a lot as I relatively new to 3d printing
Thanks for covering this. I have my 1.3 installed but am having issues with it crashing the nozzle into the bed when homing. Time to make another round on your videos and make sure my settings are correct based on what TH3D has up on configuring marlin 2.0.
Oh ..I am having issues installin but i just saw a section I thin configuireADV_h..??.. not sure.. Where you could alter what it does when stopping .. i specifically saw "crashing Z nozzle" so it doesnt fall on the print when done... search for "Crashing"..Fall on to print"..some key words will pop up... You could set values fopr what echt axis stepper does ..check that .. I would for you right now , but I got so fed up . I uninstalled everything and am starting over ..still installing atom..Is it me on is atom really taking long time to start up... keeps saying editor notresponding , wait?... a couple of times ..then finally its up..
@@AlexanderSauerPlaysWithHeroJr It got sorted after an M119 probe test. I had to swap the wires where it plugged into the z axis endstop on the board. It works normally now.
I had a LJ12A3-4-Z/BY (6-36VDC) laying around for some years. I found it yesterday and tried it with 5V. To my surprise it works. I made a connector for the board and it was just plug and play. My z Offset is about 2mm and the sensor is clear above the nozzle. I ran a m48 p30 test and the result was astonishing. 0.002 standard deviation. Than I looked at AliExpress how much these cost. 2-3$. My smart touch never worked that great. Had to pull the pin every time I powered up the printer. And the nozzle was crashing a few times. Finally bed leveling works great.
I just wanted to say thank you for this guide. As someone with ZERO experience with code, and very little confidence that I could get this up and going, it actually went relatively smooth. I had a ton of issues with Atom that alone had me beyond frustrated. Platform.io has said they aren't supporting it anymore (from what I've read on the bigtreetech Facebook thank you for that as well). Trading out Atom for Visual Studio Code, and having to figure out how to add a library for the TMC 2130 were my only hiccups, I can't tell you the feeling of joy I got when I saw that green line "success" when the firmware built. I ordered some 24v 5015 part cooling fans to cope with some over heating, but either the amperage to run them is too high .17a vs. the stock .1a or I just happened to get a few lemons from Ali, which is possible. A video on upgrading the part cooling fans would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again Michael, keep up the great work
Great tutorial. I've been wanting to upgrade the control board for my Ender 3 and separate it from the printer so that I can enclose the printer for doing ABS and ASA.
FYI the SKR Mini also requires an external mosfet for the heatbed. It still has connection for the heatbed thermistor. It's best for people who are planning to use an external mosfet anyways, or are using those 110/220v AC heatbeds.
hi Micheal, i love all your series of videos so far and at 68years old who learns as a visual learner only got into 3d printing at Xmas 2023 and your channel is the easiest to follow as you don't speed away you must be a great teacher at school you have helped me so much. I have a question do you have any advice on how to get a single jpg photo down to make a 3d model EG a person's face to a 3d printed bust thank you keep up the great work
Thanks for an awesome video with so much practical information! There's really no excuse for anyone not to upgrade to this 32-bit board to get with the times!
Hi Michael, I just found out that Marlin 2.0 latest version (as of August 4 2019) has changed the way to enable the sdcard. There is no lpc1768 in Configuration_adv.h anymore. Search for: "#if HAS_SDCARD_CONNECTION" and in this section, change "#define SDCARD_CONNECTION LCD" to "#define SDCARD_CONNECTION ONBOARD". Now, sdcard works (after pressing Init SD Card). Edit: The USB-Drive on the PC stays visible until you press "Init. SD Card". So if you power on the printer without initialising sdcard, you can still upload new firmware via USB. No need to take out the card. Thx a lot for the video! Cheers Armin
My crappy computer cannot see the thing at all anymore...after manually copying the bin file to the sd card and then sneaker netting it to the printer the printer is working via raspberry pi with no issues as of yet. printer is stock for hardware except EZRStruder. No BLtouch (A waste of time anyway.) Bed stays level on its own.
Love this video (as always). 💯 I’ve been a software engineer for over 40 years now (started programming at 16 with an Apple //+). Not sure if you know or if it’s a language difference, but “Clang” i think is short for C Lang it C Language. You installed a C Language parser or compiler for ATOM. I have to put this exact same setup on my computer right away to find out and also to follow along with this tutorial. Great job, once again. I’m catching up. 👍🙏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
FYI Michael's rear mounted case he mentions at 11:40 is titled " Ender 3 upgrades: EZR to direct drive adaptor and all in one rear mounted electronics case" dated June 14 2019
Oh man, I was hoping I wouldn't have to install like six new programs to set this up. This is going to require some pondering. Excellent video though, it covers everything it seems like you'd need to know!
They are just two different ways to connect boards together so they can communicate with each other. Usually you need at least a couple of pins on your microcontroller chip to control/monitor something. This limits the number of things you can control/monitor to the number of pins the microcontroller has. UART & SPI allow you to control / monitor many things using only a few pins on the microcontroller. It works by daisy chaining the sensors together: 1st sensor plugs into microcontroller, 2nd sensor plugs into the 1st sensor and it's data is passed through to the microcontroller, the 3rd sensor plugs into the 2nd sensor and so on.
With uart on the stepper drivers you can set limits in software and don't have to trim the pot on the stepper pcb itself. It will also enable you to use advanced modes of the stepper drive like stealhchop. With tmc2130 on spi you can also use homeing without endstops.
@@elfpimp1 a special mode of the trinamics drivers which make the motors very very silent. So silent you can put the printer into your bedroom. (If you have quiet fans)
At the 8 minute mark: Just a note for people who bought the BIGTREE Pro or Mini, the latest Marlin has specific environments for the BIGTREE SKR Pro (line 476) and Mini (line 308)
Awesome vid, would you consider doing a playlist of just the videos that pertain to the ender3, just got one figured it'd be a good place to start for home 3d printing for fun. Don't think I've ever pulled this much hair out in the name of fun before but am having a great time playing with it with my kid... One of the boards you added made it go nearly silent...
To those like me who ended up here because they got a 1.1 instead of a 1.3 by mistake(or to save money I guess?): Yes, this guide is still applicable to you, but every time Michael mentions 1.3, you have to substitute 1.1 and also enter the correct files. Furthermore, the 1.1 does not already have Servo0 pin defined as mentioned in BLTouch, you will have to do that. You also unfortunately still need to solder your drivers and make a messy harness for UART mode.
Downloading a zip is great but when you have GIT already installed going to a shell prompt and executing the 'git clone' command is easier IMHO than unzipping files to a directory. Using git also allows you to update the latest bugfixes and keep your marlin settings without having to download the source again. Just a tip from your friendly neighborhood code monkey. As always great video!
I wasn't sure what Git was even used for. I downloaded it as he suggested, but didn't think I actually ever used it. I don't even know what to use it for.
I was able to install mine yesterday in your case. Think I'm going to get a glue gun as some of those tabs that were cut off for the end stops are a little loose. Also, I had to straight wire my hot end fan, but after watching your video, when back in and added the pin. Going to buy your guide anyway, if I can find the link! Thanks!!
SKR pro extra power input is not for the heated bed as mentioned, it is for the stepper driver/motors to run them at higher voltage 35v/48v depends on The driver used 2008/21x
whilst I am lookin forward to the TMC2209 and TMC5160, I think I'd rather see you cover some newer lower cost drivers instead. the AT2100 (clones of the TMC2100 used on the Sidewinder X1 available under £3 each) the ST820, an up to 45v stepper driver with native 128microsteps, and the TBS6128, another driver with higher power and high (128) microstepping, all of these are at least half the price of the TMC stuff and I think they would benefit from being covered more.
This was indeed a very frustrating experience...Had the same problem as Ryan Schmaltz: "Having a bit of trouble. Bit of a noob here to be honest. I followed you video very closely. When I uploaded the build it showed the BIN file on the SD. I unplugged the USB, waited a sec, then plugged back in. However, now my computer is saying the USB Device is not recognized. Little lost! " Ryan Schmaltz 2 days ago "Got it fixed! Not sure how, but in case someone has the same issue.....? Pulled the microSD and put it in a card reader. Showed the original cursor file along with the BIN. However, the BIN was showing a size of 0. deleted the file then used Atom again to upload the build but left the microSD inserted through the card reader. New BIN showed up. Plugged it back into the board, then the USB into the machine, and BINGO. It worked. Not sure what happened the first time but we're good to go now!" I did not get the Bingo... It's a damn MICROSOFT problem. (I have Winblows 10, 64bit) I don't know why after 24 years of the existence of USB, MS still can't get it right. Tried the above solution three times, didn't work. Finally had to remove sd card from printer, put it into a different card reader, which Win 10 did not recognize, had to format it (FAT) then manually copy the bin file from the directory it was saved in by Atom. Put it into the machine and theeeeeeennnnn, Voila! finally got the Ender screen to be more than a night light. Was able to move the axis and extruder. Then connected up the Raspberry PI, which recognized the new Ender reincarnation right away. Started Octoprint and am now running a stringing test. I am amazed at how quiet this thing is now. I am running 2208's for all four steppers in UART mode. Soldering the pads was a major pain. Good thing I had 5... I destroyed the first one. Perhaps the manufacturer of them could put a micro jumper pin set there...hint-hint. I needed to combine information from at least three videos to do this, none of them did it all. Here is the other main video, this is very helpful. ruclips.net/video/sSO3Xd0a0Z8/видео.html Note to Teaching Tech: The rear closure could use a few tweaks: It was about 1mm too wide, rather than print another modified one I machined the right side vertical area back and also the edge of the right most part where the V edge is. Also the openings for the Raspbarry PI are too low where the USB ports are, (At lest for my V3 rev B+) Had to machine that area about 1.5mm higher above where the USB ports are. The lids are a bit thin but usable. My first print was a stringing tower using crappy filament, it came out nearly perfect!
LOL This is not really for the noobs (myself) in the audience, but still very detailed that if you want its doable. Just make sure not to miss a step or do it wrong. I'm sure most know the headache a comma or a bad wire connection causes lol. Great video TT. btw Have you published a printable check list of all the steps? It would be nice to have a hard copy at hand.
I see they also have an SKS Mini E3 which is a direct swap for the ender board and comes with onboard TMC2209's. That's tempting. Only £23... And saves having to print a case and such. Just need to decide on if to get a screen or stick with the original. Great video though, cheers
Could you do a quick Pro board firmware rundown for us plebs? They're so cheap i might as well plan ahead for future upgrades/builds. Your vids are great, thanks.
hi, great video, few things, there is very interesting new board BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 with integrated TMC2209 (so no jumpers etc) you didn't mention and second CLang it's klang, there are two words C lang (as this is C language compiler)
Thanks master Michael. Now a curly question, is it best to upgrade to a 32 bits board or use Klipper on the raspberry Pi alongside with Octoprint? Cheers Manu
Yess an educational guide thanx I guess... as It's a bit of a wild Goose chase. It's extremely difficult to follow your procedures..Now that Marlin 2.0 bugsplat etc is markedly different.. As is Platformio.. than your examples..
I just went through installing an SKR V1.3 with TMC2209. It sat on the shelf for a year before I got to it. It lasted 3 days then I lost control of the E0 extruder motor (clicking and rocking back and forth). It was not the TMC2209 driver, I swapped it out. The problem seems to be the board itself. Not Knowing Marlin well, I took it on. One day later I am back up and running with the SKR V1.3. I had to redirect E0 to the E1 stepper control, along with a couple other details. I could not find any SKR V1.3 replacement boards available, so I am lucky I found a way to fix it.
Superb video but I don't understand why you wouldn't just go with a Duet Maestro or clone. So much easier to configure, greater functionality and the clone is pretty comparable on cost. Mine is running perfectly.
Thanks Michael, just bought the TFT 28 screen and this BIQU/Bigtreetech SKR V1.3 online at AliExpress....I am thinking this will be a good upgrade for my own Ender 3 now....I also have an EV3D V6 hotend from local MakerShop here in NZ to go with this... Regards Laurie
It prints three times faster, in full color with four times the resolution, but wait there's more, absolutely no stringing, self leveling, and guaranteed to never have a print fail - or your money back. Oh crap, my dog was at the keyboard again. Disregard the above.
Thanks for your videos. They are definitely helpful. I'm super stuck though. You reference back to your previous videos for setting up the 2130's, but that was with a different controller board. I can't seem to figure out where to plug in the loom to the SKR 1.3 Also, you were using a different arduino editor back then and not atom. Things look a lot different in atom (or vscode). Will you be making an updated video for the 2130s for the SKR 1.3? I do all the reading and watching videos that I can and will continue to do so, but I usually come back to your videos since they are the easiest to follow along.
Thanks for the video. But I have to say that getting Atom onto my Windows 10 laptop has been a nightmare. My first problem was due, I think, to two things. Firewall and antivrus and a previous install of Python. Now it is hung up on installing depencies for PlatformIO. I may have to go the Visual Studio route.
If you're having problems with atom, chances are you may have the same issues with visual studio code as vs code is based on atom. Whenever you want to install extensions or updates try running as administrator (from start menu right click > More > Run as Administrator). I've successfully compiled marlin firmware in vs code using platformio but was getting all these annoying intellisense errors I had to troubleshoot, it's much easier to do in atom or vscode using linux. I have an old laptop that I installed manjaro linux on just for these purposes (marlin firmware compiling, flashing microcontrollers, etc)
Hi Michael, Thank you for this awesome video. It's very informative. I am planning to buy a Two Trees Bluer 3d printer your suggestions will be much appreciated. thank you...
Thank you for putting so much time and energy into these videos. I definitely appreciate it. I saw the SKR 1.3 in your previous video for the first time, did my research and ended up getting one. It showed up the day you posted this video. You covered almost everything I wanted to know about the board. I do still have questions about LEDs. I've done some searching and I have found almost nothing on using NEOpixels(WS2812) with this board. Are these even compatible? some of the endstop switches look like they could support them, but I don't know enough to be confident in that. Any chance we could see a video about this?
thanks for a great video , but i have a question i saw in the BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3 github an schematic of how to connect the raspberry pi directly to the board using 3 wires can you please explain how to do that
@@Bob-Jeroen lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/BIGTREETECH%20SKRV1.3%20guide%202019%20-%206.pdf?token=AWyFauoTOXwsXz3c8NmuvQO1w4ABIBGjAJkeVwNtAwOmOG7Fu9NKX4hDlSDbDIguGmDTJxCboYNnr21RKg5JtQd9vq3LkdySwYsfcCuETLu1nmPa5CRjsox1aTehC9EOcC7GKiuAzvq06Lr4kPCKnnGc --is in the file section on FB page look at page 12
I wish I could give this a try, but my Atom is stuck at the PlatformIO IDE installation. And the PlatformIO support says that Atom has been deprecated, that we should use VSCode instead...
I was about to start this whole proceedure, I am glad I read your comment. I recently installed the 1.2 on my ender 3 and when I turn it on, I cant do anything because it claims I have thermal runaway occuring. I was hoping to flash the firmware to fix this.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
love learning from this guy! This community is lucky to have him. best part is he doesn't try to milk $$ out of his viewers by creating a product and a store. he just shares his knowledge and experiences.
You're one of the few RUclipsrs worth watching, very concise, rehearsed, articulate and intelligent. I just finished following a how to guide listed in the SKR V1.4 User Manual, at least the part that worked. I ended up using VSCode with the Merlin branch from BTT Git. Everything worked without tweaking, shame BTT doesn't keep it's manual / how-to current. Oh and thanks for the YT on LowRider! what a hoot! A means to cut aluminum parts out of aluminum sheets for under $500... Save 10 times that on the pre-cut kit for a UltraCruser UL.
Excelent Video,
I already installed my skr 1.3 to my ender 3 a month ago. But it was extemly tedious and Hard. No guides where availible at the time.
First of All I was a complete beginner to marlin and 3d printing in general
I stuggeld Hard..
Got it working after a week through. Tmc2208 and 32bit are rly worth it.
Thank u so much for your guide.
Anyone trying this there are errors in the official bigtree tech pdf's:
Jumper instructins are wrong (solder all pads)
Their Version Marlin does not compile at even before Modifikation.
Great video. For people looking to buy new parts BigTreeTech have now released the TMC2209, an upgraded TMC2208 with lower heat generation and inclusion of stallguard
Link?
Hi Michael,
this is Teemo from BIG TREE TECH store.
Thanks for your excellent video.
陈丹 send the guy some free stuff 👍🏻😆
Have you guys fixed your install guide yet? Virtually none of the process for installing the v1.2 was covered as there's this assumption that you can just move the wires from one board to the other without unplugging all of them. And that might work if you have tiny hands, but it's definitely not a safe assumption and there should be some sort of resource provided that clearly shows which wires go where as the pin labels are clearly not accurate.
@Neil Siebenthal That's what I did, but having to depend on that is rather questionable when the silk screening is wrong and wiring it incorrectly can have all sorts of problems. A proper photo is the bare minimum here just so that the end user knows that they've got it right before powering on.
@Neil Siebenthal You were lucky, mine hasn't worked a single time and despite none of the recommendations by tech support working, they're refusing to refund the purchase, won't replace it and can't say how to get it working properly.
i just posted to this asking for help my printer is trying to print off to the side of the build plate what am i missing
you have by far one of the best technical channels I've ever come across. I appreciate your clear instructions, teaching style, and friendly personality. I rarely comment on youtube channels, but i wanted you to know how helpful you are to countless people. I think in one of your videos you mentioned teaching outside of youtube as a career / to students -- It really truly shows. You do amazing work here and i have learned so much from your channel and the time you have spent to share this knowledge Thank you sir!
OMG! What an opus! That was a nice birthday present for me! Having the skr1. 3 in the mail from China, now I know where to go to when it arrives! Thank you so much for this video! Really appreciate all the hard work that went into it. All the best to you down under!
Great video again, Michael. And thanks for recognizing all of the work I had done on the STLs for all of the cases
Fantastic video, thank you for all the hard work you did making it. Between you and Chris’s basement I almost understand all this driver stuff except for when should you use them direct or spi or uart? Please help out those of us still not understanding the advantages and disadvantages of each of these. Thank goodness you’re here for us!
as usual great instruction video , your a great asset to the 3d printing community . I have some skr mini1.1 to play with to replace the board on a cctouch . thanks again Micheal
Great, thanks for that!!! Now I need to print the case and waiting for the extra info about TMC2209.
And thats the video i was waiting for!
@teaching tech, this was extremely helpful, it did not cover every single thing i was looking for but it got me going in the right direction and i wouldn't even be on square one if not for this information. i bought this mainboard before i even understood how it worked and ive never touched firmware before now, however i feel confident that if nothing else ill figure it out, and my poor little ender will live again and be dubbed the frankenprinter. instead of the BL Touch im hoping to use an inductive probe (only because i have one laying around and designed the extruder carriage with mounts for one) and im using the TMC 2208 drivers in UART since i was not confident im my ability to go with anything more advanced than that yet. im slowly realizing though that the touch would be a better option, and the sensorless homing would be an amazing feature to play with. overall, thank you for making the vide, and i look forward to whatever you do in the future.
Excellent video as always.
Note: The microcontroller on the Pro-board (STM32F407) is pin-to-pin compatible with the STM32F427/F437, so it's possible to upgrade the microcontroller to STM32F427 (extra 64KB RAM, 180 MHz instead of 168 MHz, 1MB extra Flash memory, faster GPIO-speed and much higher timer speed). The price of a single STM32F427 is around $5 on eBay. This modification requires that you're able to desolder and solder LQFP100 ICs - or that you know someone who can do it for you. It also requires you to make some adjustments to the firmware, so it takes advantages of the extras (such as raising the clock speed, using the extra memory and taking advantage of the faster timers).
Very helpful video, I've been waiting for this one
Brilliant guide as always Michael, however be aware that you cannot enable linear advance on the 2130's SPI with stealthchop, it will give you the symptoms of a burnt out extruder motor. Can confirm that by un-commenting linear advance it will return to normal. For anyone else who freaked thinking drivers or board was bad, try commenting out linear advance. :)
Michael first of all a huge thank you, your videos have made my first foray into 3d printing fun and relatively stress free; your videos are always informative (wish Id had teachers like you when I was at school) and always to the point. This one is a god send the amount of work gone into it is hugely appreciated and my next upgrade is skr 1.3 +2208 .
I just wish I could afford patreon but I do appreciate you and your channel (Chep and Angus are both pretty awesome as well)
Been waiting for you to make this!! My board comes in next week.
What an amazing guide! I have been struggling to install this board on my Ender 3 for the last two days without success and now I know why.
Thanks a million for all your hard work!
yeah so far this is helping me with my Anet A8. Similar with the Ender 3.
Great Video. I used your guidance to install SKR V1.3 in my Ender 3 Pro. I used LV8729 drivers with 128 microsteps. My drivers had 220 resistors, so vref @ .9v on extruder .8 on XYZ. Everything running smoothly, very quiet. Cooling fans are now the loudest part. Thank you for your help.
Well done Michael, appreciate all the effort you put into this guide.
Finally!!! I was waiting for it for sooooo long ... so long in fact , that I couldn’t resist and somehow managed to do it with a help form BIGTREETECH Facebook group... I’m strongly recommend to join in , if you consider upgrading to SKR ..as those guys are amazing! ...and the BIGTREETECH ( Company which make those boards) is actually responding to the problems ( BTT HOPE ;)
To those who read this from the fb group which I just mentioned.
I salute you :)
Thanks for the comp. vid. I have seen other channels that were blury and could not see what they were doing. Yours are wonderful!
Recently fitted an SKR 1.3 to my Anet A8. Great board at an amazing price.
Although I'm gutted my Eryone Resumer 3D won't connect to it 😢 I also switched from Atom to Visual Studio Code. Much better (IMO). The best video yet for the SKR 1.3. One I will be referring back to when needed. Thank you.
Great video. Just got one of these boards. This was a big help. Thanks for your time.
An update on the installation of the BLTouch on this board would be nice as there are a lot of differences between this and the vanilla marlin video - thanks!
Good effort, the videos have really helped me get into 3d printing. My mainboard burned out today so deciding whether to go for the 32bit instead
What a great video. I very much appreciate the effort you made to publish it - no doubt it saved me tons of time. Thank you.
Excellent as always. Thank you Michael.
Thank you for your work! Can't wait to see comparisons.
great video with great directions .there's no doubt you put a lot of time and effort into this.
Thanks for the video. I have two of these coming from Amazon to upgrade my older printers. Very informative.
Great video thanks I have bought one and am just waiting for TMC5160s to put on it i went for these as they are spi but have stealthchop 2. Great videos helping me learn a lot as I relatively new to 3d printing
Thanks for covering this. I have my 1.3 installed but am having issues with it crashing the nozzle into the bed when homing. Time to make another round on your videos and make sure my settings are correct based on what TH3D has up on configuring marlin 2.0.
Oh ..I am having issues installin but i just saw a section I thin configuireADV_h..??.. not sure.. Where you could alter what it does when stopping .. i specifically saw "crashing Z nozzle" so it doesnt fall on the print when done...
search for "Crashing"..Fall on to print"..some key words will pop up... You could set values fopr what echt axis stepper does ..check that ..
I would for you right now , but I got so fed up . I uninstalled everything and am starting over ..still installing atom..Is it me on is atom really taking long time to start up... keeps saying editor notresponding , wait?... a couple of times ..then finally its up..
@@AlexanderSauerPlaysWithHeroJr It got sorted after an M119 probe test. I had to swap the wires where it plugged into the z axis endstop on the board. It works normally now.
I had a LJ12A3-4-Z/BY (6-36VDC) laying around for some years. I found it yesterday and tried it with 5V. To my surprise it works. I made a connector for the board and it was just plug and play. My z Offset is about 2mm and the sensor is clear above the nozzle. I ran a m48 p30 test and the result was astonishing. 0.002 standard deviation.
Than I looked at AliExpress how much these cost. 2-3$. My smart touch never worked that great. Had to pull the pin every time I powered up the printer. And the nozzle was crashing a few times. Finally bed leveling works great.
Phenomenal content Michael. I think I'm going to buy another Ender 3 to try this out on.
I was on the edge of my seat the whole time. But everything worked, whew!
I just wanted to say thank you for this guide. As someone with ZERO experience with code, and very little confidence that I could get this up and going, it actually went relatively smooth. I had a ton of issues with Atom that alone had me beyond frustrated. Platform.io has said they aren't supporting it anymore (from what I've read on the bigtreetech Facebook thank you for that as well). Trading out Atom for Visual Studio Code, and having to figure out how to add a library for the TMC 2130 were my only hiccups, I can't tell you the feeling of joy I got when I saw that green line "success" when the firmware built. I ordered some 24v 5015 part cooling fans to cope with some over heating, but either the amperage to run them is too high .17a vs. the stock .1a or I just happened to get a few lemons from Ali, which is possible. A video on upgrading the part cooling fans would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again Michael, keep up the great work
So how do you add the 2208 Lib to atom?
With VS Code on the home page when you first open the program, I just clicked library's and downloaded the 2130 lib there.
Great vid man. Thanks for all your hard work.
Great tutorial. I've been wanting to upgrade the control board for my Ender 3 and separate it from the printer so that I can enclose the printer for doing ABS and ASA.
FYI the SKR Mini also requires an external mosfet for the heatbed. It still has connection for the heatbed thermistor. It's best for people who are planning to use an external mosfet anyways, or are using those 110/220v AC heatbeds.
Fantastic video, will make future up grades so much easier, cheers.
hi Micheal, i love all your series of videos so far and at 68years old who learns as a visual learner only got into 3d printing at Xmas 2023 and your channel is the easiest to follow as you don't speed away you must be a great teacher at school you have helped me so much. I have a question do you have any advice on how to get a single jpg photo down to make a 3d model EG a person's face to a 3d printed bust thank you keep up the great work
Awesome stuff! Thanks a lot for keeping us updated!
Great video thanks for all the hard work that went into this one!
Thanks for an awesome video with so much practical information! There's really no excuse for anyone not to upgrade to this 32-bit board to get with the times!
Hi Michael,
I just found out that Marlin 2.0 latest version (as of August 4 2019) has changed the way to enable the sdcard. There is no lpc1768 in Configuration_adv.h anymore.
Search for: "#if HAS_SDCARD_CONNECTION" and in this section, change "#define SDCARD_CONNECTION LCD" to "#define SDCARD_CONNECTION ONBOARD".
Now, sdcard works (after pressing Init SD Card).
Edit: The USB-Drive on the PC stays visible until you press "Init. SD Card". So if you power on the printer without initialising sdcard, you can still upload new firmware via USB. No need to take out the card.
Thx a lot for the video!
Cheers
Armin
My crappy computer cannot see the thing at all anymore...after manually copying the bin file to the sd card and then sneaker netting it to the printer the printer is working via raspberry pi with no issues as of yet. printer is stock for hardware except EZRStruder. No BLtouch (A waste of time anyway.) Bed stays level on its own.
you're the best man!!!! really Thank you for all the information
Love this video (as always). 💯 I’ve been a software engineer for over 40 years now (started programming at 16 with an Apple //+).
Not sure if you know or if it’s a language difference, but “Clang” i think is short for C Lang it C Language. You installed a C Language parser or compiler for ATOM.
I have to put this exact same setup on my computer right away to find out and also to follow along with this tutorial. Great job, once again. I’m catching up. 👍🙏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
FYI Michael's rear mounted case he mentions at 11:40 is titled " Ender 3 upgrades: EZR to direct drive adaptor and all in one rear mounted electronics case" dated June 14 2019
Oh man, I was hoping I wouldn't have to install like six new programs to set this up. This is going to require some pondering. Excellent video though, it covers everything it seems like you'd need to know!
Great video.
Still haven't understand the difference between UART, SPI/DIR and all those stuff. Can you make a video describing these things?
They are just two different ways to connect boards together so they can communicate with each other. Usually you need at least a couple of pins on your microcontroller chip to control/monitor something. This limits the number of things you can control/monitor to the number of pins the microcontroller has.
UART & SPI allow you to control / monitor many things using only a few pins on the microcontroller. It works by daisy chaining the sensors together: 1st sensor plugs into microcontroller, 2nd sensor plugs into the 1st sensor and it's data is passed through to the microcontroller, the 3rd sensor plugs into the 2nd sensor and so on.
With uart on the stepper drivers you can set limits in software and don't have to trim the pot on the stepper pcb itself. It will also enable you to use advanced modes of the stepper drive like stealhchop. With tmc2130 on spi you can also use homeing without endstops.
@@hansmaulwurf8027 what is stealth chop?
@@elfpimp1 a special mode of the trinamics drivers which make the motors very very silent. So silent you can put the printer into your bedroom. (If you have quiet fans)
@@hansmaulwurf8027 wow..
Micheal, you just made me buy one of those!! :)
same just received it today
So much information!!! I love it!!!!!
Ender 3 sounds like a little bit better version of the Anet A8. You earned a subscriber!
At the 8 minute mark: Just a note for people who bought the BIGTREE Pro or Mini, the latest Marlin has specific environments for the BIGTREE SKR Pro (line 476) and Mini (line 308)
Great tutorial micheal thanks
Again great video
Fantastic walkthrough Michael, thank you. I will definitely be referencing this when I upgrade the #Borg. Looking forward to the driver videos.
Awesome vid, would you consider doing a playlist of just the videos that pertain to the ender3, just got one figured it'd be a good place to start for home 3d printing for fun. Don't think I've ever pulled this much hair out in the name of fun before but am having a great time playing with it with my kid... One of the boards you added made it go nearly silent...
Another great video. Thank you.
I see you pay attention to the questions asked on the FB groups! Another good guide!
Another great video. 👍🏻
Great video, thanks.
To those like me who ended up here because they got a 1.1 instead of a 1.3 by mistake(or to save money I guess?): Yes, this guide is still applicable to you, but every time Michael mentions 1.3, you have to substitute 1.1 and also enter the correct files. Furthermore, the 1.1 does not already have Servo0 pin defined as mentioned in BLTouch, you will have to do that. You also unfortunately still need to solder your drivers and make a messy harness for UART mode.
Thank you for the documentation, i am planning to do this on an ender 5.
Anyways, i hope that you can also go through smoothieware one day :D
Awesome case, thanks!
Very helpful video - thanks for sharing :)
Ghads. Was expecting a "Bob's your uncle" somewhere near the end as a punchline.
Downloading a zip is great but when you have GIT already installed going to a shell prompt and executing the 'git clone' command is easier IMHO than unzipping files to a directory. Using git also allows you to update the latest bugfixes and keep your marlin settings without having to download the source again. Just a tip from your friendly neighborhood code monkey. As always great video!
I wasn't sure what Git was even used for. I downloaded it as he suggested, but didn't think I actually ever used it. I don't even know what to use it for.
I was able to install mine yesterday in your case. Think I'm going to get a glue gun as some of those tabs that were cut off for the end stops are a little loose. Also, I had to straight wire my hot end fan, but after watching your video, when back in and added the pin. Going to buy your guide anyway, if I can find the link! Thanks!!
V professional and well done.
SKR pro extra power input is not for the heated bed as mentioned, it is for the stepper driver/motors to run them at higher voltage 35v/48v depends on The driver used 2008/21x
There's actually two extra power inputs so I think we're both right.
It does both, so if you have the power supplies you could run Board at 12V, which makes fans easy, 24v heatbed and 36/48v steppers.
After 3days struggling with Atom I switched to Vscode and complied firmware for BIGTREE SKR PRO 1.1.
I spoke the the PlatformIO guy, and Atom is a dead application, he recommended we use VSCode
whilst I am lookin forward to the TMC2209 and TMC5160, I think I'd rather see you cover some newer lower cost drivers instead. the AT2100 (clones of the TMC2100 used on the Sidewinder X1 available under £3 each) the ST820, an up to 45v stepper driver with native 128microsteps, and the TBS6128, another driver with higher power and high (128) microstepping, all of these are at least half the price of the TMC stuff and I think they would benefit from being covered more.
This was indeed a very frustrating experience...Had the same problem as Ryan Schmaltz:
"Having a bit of trouble. Bit of a noob here to be honest. I followed you video very closely. When I uploaded the build it showed the BIN file on the SD. I unplugged the USB, waited a sec, then plugged back in. However, now my computer is saying the USB Device is not recognized. Little lost!
"
Ryan Schmaltz
2 days ago
"Got it fixed! Not sure how, but in case someone has the same issue.....?
Pulled the microSD and put it in a card reader. Showed the original cursor file along with the BIN. However, the BIN was showing a size of 0. deleted the file then used Atom again to upload the build but left the microSD inserted through the card reader. New BIN showed up. Plugged it back into the board, then the USB into the machine, and BINGO. It worked. Not sure what happened the first time but we're good to go now!"
I did not get the Bingo...
It's a damn MICROSOFT problem. (I have Winblows 10, 64bit) I don't know why after 24 years of the existence of USB, MS still can't get it right. Tried the above solution three times, didn't work. Finally had to remove sd card from printer, put it into a different card reader, which Win 10 did not recognize, had to format it (FAT) then manually copy the bin file from the directory it was saved in by Atom. Put it into the machine and theeeeeeennnnn, Voila! finally got the Ender screen to be more than a night light. Was able to move the axis and extruder. Then connected up the Raspberry PI, which recognized the new Ender reincarnation right away. Started Octoprint and am now running a stringing test. I am amazed at how quiet this thing is now. I am running 2208's for all four steppers in UART mode. Soldering the pads was a major pain. Good thing I had 5... I destroyed the first one. Perhaps the manufacturer of them could put a micro jumper pin set there...hint-hint. I needed to combine information from at least three videos to do this, none of them did it all. Here is the other main video, this is very helpful.
ruclips.net/video/sSO3Xd0a0Z8/видео.html
Note to Teaching Tech: The rear closure could use a few tweaks: It was about 1mm too wide, rather than print another modified one I machined the right side vertical area back and also the edge of the right most part where the V edge is. Also the openings for the Raspbarry PI are too low where the USB ports are, (At lest for my V3 rev B+) Had to machine that area about 1.5mm higher above where the USB ports are. The lids are a bit thin but usable.
My first print was a stringing tower using crappy filament, it came out nearly perfect!
LOL This is not really for the noobs (myself) in the audience, but still very detailed that if you want its doable. Just make sure not to miss a step or do it wrong. I'm sure most know the headache a comma or a bad wire connection causes lol. Great video TT.
btw Have you published a printable check list of all the steps? It would be nice to have a hard copy at hand.
TT....That was so elaborate....Thankyou !!
I see they also have an SKS Mini E3 which is a direct swap for the ender board and comes with onboard TMC2209's.
That's tempting. Only £23... And saves having to print a case and such.
Just need to decide on if to get a screen or stick with the original.
Great video though, cheers
I believe I have one coming.
Have ordered myself one up anyway.
Could you do a quick Pro board firmware rundown for us plebs? They're so cheap i might as well plan ahead for future upgrades/builds. Your vids are great, thanks.
hi, great video, few things, there is very interesting new board BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 with integrated TMC2209 (so no jumpers etc) you didn't mention and second CLang it's klang, there are two words C lang (as this is C language compiler)
This has scared the crap out of me. This is a lot to do just for an upgrade
Thanks master Michael. Now a curly question, is it best to upgrade to a 32 bits board or use Klipper on the raspberry Pi alongside with Octoprint?
Cheers
Manu
I think this the way to go for dual extrusion setup
Yess an educational guide thanx I guess... as It's a bit of a wild Goose chase.
It's extremely difficult to follow your procedures..Now that Marlin 2.0 bugsplat etc is markedly different.. As is Platformio.. than your examples..
I just went through installing an SKR V1.3 with TMC2209. It sat on the shelf for a year before I got to it. It lasted 3 days then I lost control of the E0 extruder motor (clicking and rocking back and forth). It was not the TMC2209 driver, I swapped it out. The problem seems to be the board itself. Not Knowing Marlin well, I took it on. One day later I am back up and running with the SKR V1.3. I had to redirect E0 to the E1 stepper control, along with a couple other details. I could not find any SKR V1.3 replacement boards available, so I am lucky I found a way to fix it.
Superb video but I don't understand why you wouldn't just go with a Duet Maestro or clone. So much easier to configure, greater functionality and the clone is pretty comparable on cost.
Mine is running perfectly.
Link to clone?
@@fightthefuture aliexpress.com/item/32900367547.html
Because the Duet is 4 to 5 times the price?
@@originaltrilogy1 The clone is an extra ~$10. No brainer for what you get for the price.
Thanks Michael, just bought the TFT 28 screen and this BIQU/Bigtreetech SKR V1.3 online at AliExpress....I am thinking this will be a good upgrade for my own Ender 3 now....I also have an EV3D V6 hotend from local MakerShop here in NZ to go with this... Regards Laurie
What I would like to see is the improvement in the prints. Is it really worth it?
prints should be bit faster
It prints three times faster, in full color with four times the resolution, but wait there's more, absolutely no stringing, self leveling, and guaranteed to never have a print fail - or your money back.
Oh crap, my dog was at the keyboard again. Disregard the above.
Thanks for your videos. They are definitely helpful. I'm super stuck though. You reference back to your previous videos for setting up the 2130's, but that was with a different controller board. I can't seem to figure out where to plug in the loom to the SKR 1.3 Also, you were using a different arduino editor back then and not atom. Things look a lot different in atom (or vscode). Will you be making an updated video for the 2130s for the SKR 1.3? I do all the reading and watching videos that I can and will continue to do so, but I usually come back to your videos since they are the easiest to follow along.
Thanks for the video. But I have to say that getting Atom onto my Windows 10 laptop has been a nightmare. My first problem was due, I think, to two things. Firewall and antivrus and a previous install of Python. Now it is hung up on installing depencies for PlatformIO. I may have to go the Visual Studio route.
If you're having problems with atom, chances are you may have the same issues with visual studio code as vs code is based on atom. Whenever you want to install extensions or updates try running as administrator (from start menu right click > More > Run as Administrator). I've successfully compiled marlin firmware in vs code using platformio but was getting all these annoying intellisense errors I had to troubleshoot, it's much easier to do in atom or vscode using linux. I have an old laptop that I installed manjaro linux on just for these purposes (marlin firmware compiling, flashing microcontrollers, etc)
The installation of atom is an absolute nightmare!!!
It installed super easily in one step on my Mac, I haven't tried it on my Windows box. What was causing the nightmares?
@@originaltrilogy1 He must be joking. I just downloaded Atom on a Win7 64 bit machine and it only took a few seconds to get up and running.
Hi Michael, Thank you for this awesome video. It's very informative. I am planning to buy a Two Trees Bluer 3d printer your suggestions will be much appreciated. thank you...
Awesome guide. I will really appreciate if you could do an SKR upgrade for CR10S Pro
love the upgrades for ender 3.. but meen hate those ruber bearing axis situation
Thank you for putting so much time and energy into these videos. I definitely appreciate it. I saw the SKR 1.3 in your previous video for the first time, did my research and ended up getting one. It showed up the day you posted this video. You covered almost everything I wanted to know about the board. I do still have questions about LEDs. I've done some searching and I have found almost nothing on using NEOpixels(WS2812) with this board. Are these even compatible? some of the endstop switches look like they could support them, but I don't know enough to be confident in that. Any chance we could see a video about this?
thanks for a great video , but i have a question i saw in the BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3 github an schematic of how to connect the raspberry pi directly to the board using 3 wires can you please explain how to do that
Ricardo Antonio Ramirez could you share the link? Thank you
@@Bob-Jeroen lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/BIGTREETECH%20SKRV1.3%20guide%202019%20-%206.pdf?token=AWyFauoTOXwsXz3c8NmuvQO1w4ABIBGjAJkeVwNtAwOmOG7Fu9NKX4hDlSDbDIguGmDTJxCboYNnr21RKg5JtQd9vq3LkdySwYsfcCuETLu1nmPa5CRjsox1aTehC9EOcC7GKiuAzvq06Lr4kPCKnnGc --is in the file section on FB page look at page 12
Cool. ATOM now at v1.45.0 has got/github built in but you still need it if also using VSCode.
I wish I could give this a try, but my Atom is stuck at the PlatformIO IDE installation. And the PlatformIO support says that Atom has been deprecated, that we should use VSCode instead...
You don't need the IDE, just use the pio command line tooling
Bigtree has started shipping out the SKR Mini E3 1.2, will you be doing an install guide on it?
@@Blackskillpower the firmware used in this video is completely different from what is needed on the new board version
I was about to start this whole proceedure, I am glad I read your comment. I recently installed the 1.2 on my ender 3 and when I turn it on, I cant do anything because it claims I have thermal runaway occuring. I was hoping to flash the firmware to fix this.