The ring is for a metal shield to cover the components inside the ring. You typically put the ring into your V1 PCB design, incase it fails EMC testing (that is required to sell products in most countries). If it passes without the shield, you leave it off, and remove the ring in the next revision. Source: I design PCBs professionally, and have done the same.
Very nice review and I agree: Creality should follow the open-source Klipper... actually both on this printer AND on the Sonic Pad. About the printer itself: it's so great that Bambu is having competition.
OMG, an actual objectively fair review from someone who called out both Bambu and Creality for their shenanigans when they deserved it. This is why I back you on Patreon. THANK YOU!
You can get 'Blade tool' by searching glass scraper or something similar. I bought one ages ago and it is super useful but do NOT ever use it in any way sideways. If you bend the edge slightly in one direction you will end up scratching the bed with that one bent part. Hold it flat at a shallow angle to the bed and puch on the bottom of the print and it'll pop off (do not pry for the reason stated earlier).
Top tip: order plastic razors/scrapers. They are mostly used in the sign/printing industry. Top tip 2: order non permanent multiple use adhesive spray, used mostly in the textile industry.
FYI I've had a lot more luck using orange plastic razor blades for removing prints from bed surfaces. I originally bought a huge pack for removing old gaskets from car parts without nicking the aluminum parts, but I use mine 99% of the time on my 3d printers. I haven't seen many 3d printing channels talk about them before.
Solid review. I think some teething issues can be expected. They definitely need to release their files. I think right now I would still buy this over a P1P.
As a 3D scupltor looking to acquire my first 3D printer can I humbly ask you a few pros/cons that would make you chose the K1 over the P1P ? I've been reading arround those past days and almost settled for the P1P over the K1 which was the first to hold my interest initialy. Thank you for your time :)
@@0dCore I don't own either, so I'd only be speaking from armchair experience. The main factor for me is simply price. The more open source nature of Creality matters as well, though they still have to live up to that with the K1. I will say overall the P1P is probably a bit better of a machine and at least replacement parts are affordable if ever needed. Both seem capable of doing pretty much all the same things, except the K1 comes enclosed already which will make switching to more advanced materials much less of a pain, and still at a lower price.
@@802Garage I see, thank you for your answer. It's 3 days later and because I can find the P1S at almost same price as the K1 in my area, I might go for this one as it's enclosed too... I'd prefer open source stuff too tbh but from my past days reading Creality printers seems to be less reliable in the long term than bambu labs ones ? Now I'll have to read some more to make sure about that, since creality's summer K1 purchase offer gives out 100$ of extras for only 3 extra bucks which looks like a good deal... Down the rabbit hole hahaha.
i had the K1 for a week before refunding it over a bunch of issues, e.g. it could only do 15mm3 flow (tested ABS@285C) before shearing off filament on stock hardware, with a cht volcano it reached 30mm3 but print quality at 300mm/s wasn’t great and lastly it developed really loud resonance noises over belts rubbing against pulley shoulders. creality support tried their best but couldn’t resolve the issues. I hope the modding community develops upgrades just like the did for the ender series to make the k1 truly great
I have been using my K1 for 5 days now, and i love it! And this review is the most on point and personal i have seen! I was worried in the beginning, since so many people have shown alot of "broken" machines all over social media. I just went through all the screws i could find and checking so all was correctly tighten before starting printing. And not a single problem. My personal thoughts, is that the biggest trouble with these printers are for beginners that haven't tinkering with normal bedslingers before. And thus dont have the experience in troubleshooting. Once again, my personal thoughts.
Glad yours did good but wait for the anoying 004 error code of hotend, or binded extruder gear pins, its not cool, idea is great for creality but product quality is absolutely not cool
Got my X1 about a week ago. Came with 1 glue stick. Don't _need_ a scraper as it is a cool bed, you can/should wait a couple of minutes and then just flex it slightly to release the print. This is also much safer for the bed. So the scraper is not included as the bed is not designed to need one. With that said, Bambi does include a preinstalled model to print one. I kind of think this might be better. Let someone print one if they really need one and this way, they are also using their printer for a useful item (not just a million more Benchys). To the video. GREAT info and very well said. Really does being to light an issue that Creality needs to answer for and the only way they will is if a little shade is put on them.
general scraper, yes, but the bambu one is really sharp, obviously you need to use a good technique but I've not damaged either bed after hundreds of prints...as usual it comes down to taking care
This is why an honest review is always welcome. I really would like a decent but affordable Core XY printer with klipper. I thought this might be a good one to get, but seeing as they are crippling it, I will look elsewhere unless they do change that. Nobody wants to spend hundreds of dollars for something crippled.
So I have a k1 and have had issues. Like everyone it’s the extruded they just designed it poorly so it’s seems for most people that’s what breaks. I opened mine up and I saw an issue that people had described which is that the extruded gears are mounted poorly and the screws bend over time. This happened to me so I put a bond tech lgx lite and it’s instantly fixed my print issues. But the other thing is not having access to klipper so I am not able to adjust e steps and had to change flow and retraction to get good prints. It’s just frustrating because this printer seems to be geared as a ready to print machine and if anyone bought it with little to no 3d printer knowledge they be very confused.
The clearly need to open up this printer.. so people can make it better, use Orca Slicer / CURA with it and load prints over the network to it etc. I'm a semi happy owner of a K1 (printing mainly PETG for hobby use). Also they should do something with the extruder, sell/send an upgraded version what has less issues with under extrusion imho (spent 5-6h on getting it to print PETG-carbon with their hardened .6 nozzle and failed)
100% agree with your summary. Seems like it was really close to being a home-run if Creality had not nerfed Klipper and just put regular Klipper on there and advertised it as much.
It’s there, both Fluidd and Mainsail, and you can get to it via an exploit, but then you’re locking yourself to a firmware version because Creality then _really_ removed Moonraker about 2 weeks ago. I’m running Mainsail on mine and a coworker of mine is working to get it in parity with a conventional Mainsail install. Not budging on firmware until Creality gets its act together.
@@aspectcontext My issue with the exploit is that Creality opened up a security hole in Klipper (technically moonraker api) that allows you to move and replace the file in the /etc/shadow folder. This should never be allowed by any API. So running Crealitys Klipper, even if you have Fluid/Mainsail, is a security accident just waiting to happen. I'll wait until its a real unmodified version of Klipper. Might never happen, but that is my holdup before even thinking about this printer. Otherwise, its not bad.
@@JohnOlsonYeah, if you don’t know what you’re doing, especially if you can’t read code and have little defensive networking experience, you could be in for a bad time. All Creality needs to do is offer a menu that allows you beginners/non-tinkerers a path to Creality’s nerfed Klipper version, and full Fluid and/or Mainsail for those that know what they’re doing. Everyone wins.
@@aspectcontext Yes! 100%! Even better would be an option in their UI to change password before you put it on a network, or auto generate a better password.
I've been rocking the CR-10S since 2019 and I'm ready to get a new printer. I really like what Creality has done, but I'm also curious to see what Elegoo comes out with as I can only assume they are not far behind on something similar.
I ordered a K1 Max a few days ago. I'm hoping the open sourcing they're planning to do in September also means full access to Klipper. I'm sure there'll be a shitstorm if they don't.
One thing I realized is on my x1c the LiDAR has trouble with powerful lights. I placed a led light on top and the first print gave me an error with the LiDAR. I took it off and it was fine again. I took the diffuser off and it helps a bit without causing problems with the LiDAR
good review ... thanks .. my max will be arriving in a few days.. getting back into 3d printing.. long way to go.. since my last stint in Tevo tarantula many years ago.
Great review!! While I’m still using my old ender3 I’m wanting a new printer, this COULD BE a possibility if they would just get their act together, the klipper thing, the slicer thing, and of course the cloud thing! All strikes against them, they have to know it, you know they watch the reviews! I seen an add for the K1 last night at a price of $539! But then the reviews they included were mostly dissatisfied people with problems and no response from creality except for the guy answering the reviews saying he was sorry and to contact customer service!! Come on Creality, get out the log chain and pull your head out of your a$$es!!
there is code floating around the internet and youtube that reduces VFA to almost nonexistence. Note that it does in fact slow your prints down a bit but I would prefer a perfect looking print and it is a 5 minute free fix. I think Creality may have included it as a firmware update because when I updated my firmware, VFA issues ceased to be a thing. I also want to point out that you can install bog standard klipper and fluidd on the k1. Creality even provides the specs you need to put into the configs.
From what I've heard, source code should be coming soon. Then for the love of god please just let us put Klipper on here. community firmware would make this thing a lot of fun for modders. t. Yet Another Creality Shill.
It seems to like the K1 could end up favorably comparing to the X1 Carbon like the Ender 3 compared to the Prusa Mk3 - it's not quite the same experience, the premium machine overall is still going to be objectively better, but you pay half the price for much more than half the value. On that front alone, I *might* consider getting one some day, though I am fully enamored with the idea of a good IDEX machine in a useful size at a not-obscene price, and would get such a printer instead of a K1. That potential won't be fully realized if Creality doesn't remedy their license violations and make it easy to mod, upgrade, and repair the printer. The Ender 3 is kind of the king of easy-to-do-stuff-to printers, from something as simple as adding storage for tools and supplies or as complicated as extending all the axes to octuple the print volume or add a second independent extruder. And if something breaks, parts practically grow on trees (assuming you can't just print it yourself to begin with based on thousands of mods and parts found on Thingiverse or Printables). One of the first thoughts I had about the K1 is that there are so many custom metal, glass, or injection-molded parts that spares, replacements, and upgrades might be harder or more expensive to come by, whereas you could source all the parts for something that looks identical to an Ender 3 after spending twenty minutes on AliExpress. (If anyone knows where to get a pre-drilled original Ender 3 X-axis gantry extrusion, by the way, help a brother out - having screwed it up is the last idea I have for what's gone wrong with my Ender 3 and I'm not very good with power tools.) I also wonder if the K1 and K1 Max signal an intent from Creality to partially abandon the super-budget printer market to companies like Sovol and instead focus on the mid-range market that has been buying Prusas and P1Ps.
I have a K1 too, and I am having some trouble to get at the level of quality of my ender 3. I needed to oil up my axes to improve the quality of my print but there is still some artefact. But I do like the speed of the machine and the cooling is great.
mine being delivered tomorrow. I was going to get the MAX BUT i have the S1 Plus, which, the one i got, has awesome quality at 200mms so i don't need another huge machine. Second, i also have a JGMaker Artist 3D pro which is "OK" but looking forward to this K1 because i don't always need that build volume of the Max / S1 Plus
I'll probably get a K1 in a few months, when Creality has hopefully had a few rolling upgrades for teething issues and the feeding frenzy has died down, although I saw the K1 on Creality's website on a flash sale a couple of days ago for $531. I'd like the larger print volume of the K1 Max (available 14JUL23 according to Creality but I expect that deadline to slip), but I don't want the complexity or cost of lidar or the camera, which I assume to be more Bambu-Me-Too marketing than useful features from Creality's engineering department. I'm OK printing from USB and Creality makes that easy with a front panel USB-A port and 8 GB of internal memory to store products that I print and sell online, but I'll probably hack the K1 to install the full version of Klipper instead of Creality's open source license violating crippleware. Benefiting from open source and not giving back or providing the source code as legally required (knowing the open source community doesn't have a team of lawyers to sue them) or even giving attribution for the nicked software makes me angry. Creality deserves scorn for this and I can see where people wouldn't want to buy a product from a company with no respect for intellectual property, rule of law or common decency. For all of the modern advances, Creality and Bambu Lab requiring a glue stick seems like a big step backwards in 2023. They should offer a set of magnetic print surfaces that work with all common filaments without glue sticks. I print a lot of TPU. It's very convenient to peel the part off the textured glass and print another part without messing with messy glue sticks. Glue sticks are a big turn off for me.
@@LostInTech3D - Like all things Creality, the aftermarket will supply fixes and upgrades (better magnetic print surfaces, etc.) and the users will supply files for 3D printed parts (carbon filter holder for the exhaust fan, etc.) and hacks (full Klipper instead of Creality stealing the open source Klipper and then crippling it, etc.).
@@LostInTech3D You can even get the Ender-5 S1 PEI Printing Plate and put it directly on where it lines up with the alignment screws. Not officially bed B, but may as well be.
A few years ago, Creality did the same thing on another platform where they used Marlin but wouldn't release the code. Chinese RUclipsr Naomi Wu met with Creality management and got them to see the error of their ways. Subsequently, they released the code. Maybe she would be willing to do that again with their Klipper version?
@@Liberty4Ever @LostInTech3D My pure speculation here on the bed - they simply copied what Bambu did with the X1 Carbon. Bambu's rationale for this bed was they wanted a bed that would allow especially PLA to stick well at a lower bed temp because 60C in an enclosed chamber is a recipe for extruder clogs from glassed PLA in the tube unless you vent the chamber with a fan, and I think Bambu was trying not to do that because they knew one legit criticism of their X1 Carbon was it's loud AF, and blasting the chamber fan isn't helping matters. In the case of the X1 Carbon, it's stupid anyway because there's so much other noisy stuff with that printer, like the violent clanging when it wipes its nozzle. But eventually, Bambu's users were hating the bed, so Bambu relented and released their own PEI plates after the third party market ate their lunch for months. And Bambu included a profile for PEI beds that turned on the chamber fan and raised the bed temp to 55C, and magically PLA worked on PEI without opening the door or propping the glass lid up with a vent print. My guess is Creality just copied them on the original idea because they made most of their design decisions based on what Bambu did instead of making their own informed design decision.
I don't think it's on their radar, I'm speculating of course, based on the design of the hotend. You'd need to cut the filament, and there's no provision for that.
I had heard of the k1, but was not aware of a max version in the works. As someone looking to finally get a new printer but could not decide between a large bed and the p1p/x1c, creality might have found a winning combo (assuming it performs)
I got a glue stick with mine, as well as a tube of lube. I preordered in late april. I have one weird problem (and I think it might be filament?). It prints layer one just fine, maybe even a couple of layers. then it stops depositing filament, and happily "air prints" away, leaving a large blob on the nozzle, and or strings everywhere. Sometimes.
I had the same happen with PETG, lid on. Had 2 x 2hr prints go fine, then had it happen once halfway through on a 4hr print, changed to a quicker print worked fine, back to the 4hr and it did it again within 30mins of the previous fail.
Rooted with full fluidd and a fixed up printer.cfg makes this thing amazing. Bit of a PLA princess tho. My P1P handles PETG with much less work than my K1. Seen some great ASA prints and TPU seems hit or miss, some can't print it at all and some have fantastic TPU prints.
Can you tell us something about serviceability? Many complain about the bambus that you can only change whole assemblies (gantry) and not single components (bronze bushings, idlers). The vfas are induced by the large steppers and large pulleys. Lower rpm typically results in more vfa, peaking at around 1,25 revolutions per second (50mm/s on a 20t, ldo steppers are particularly known for vfa, see prusa mk3). I dont know the size of the pulleys used and outer wall spees, i would assume by the looks 60t pulleys, so 150mm/s would be the critical vfa speed. I have no idea why they chose larger pulleys, my best guess is to stay in stealthchop longer, although with the fan noise stepper noise wouldn't be noticeable.
I think it's admirable what Creality did but I have had such bad luck with Creality printers and while their engineers are more than willing to hear my concerns, The only rule the changes out to the next machine. It's for this reason that the K1 Max will be a great printer probably... Because I had a long convo with the engineering team about the frame issues my Ender 5S1 has and seeing that moved away from extrudered aluminum I can tell they're listening. As a 3D printing consumer in basement mad scientist the more good printers on the market the better for everyone
here is the deal: I'm currently building a voron 2.4 300, but if creality changes their mind instead of the future trident or Vcore3 I will go for this, since it would be everything that the X1C isn't
Had multiple extruder issues with my unit off the rip. Tried 3 prints and it wasn't able to succeed at any of them, unit was returned. I have an ender 3 v2 which is more reliable...more than likely going for a p1p carbon next
Good afternoon. Interesting review. The drive of the three Z screws is also interesting. I would like to know your opinion about the SL_ST 3D printer design. I've been thinking for a long time about how to move the table along Z. My development has been lying for a long time, gathering dust. So I decided to share it.
Honestly…. If Klipper on it was open sourced……. I might actually go for one. I love my Bambulab but a cheaper, functional, open source klipper printer would be amazing. Might even push Bambulab to go open source. This has got me thinking about trying to hack the thing open. We shall see. I have some experience programming MIPS.
@@LostInTech3D absolutely. I’m guessing it’s a cost saving measure but honestly I can’t see on such a “low power” required machine there being no ARM chips available but with the knowledge of what MIPS processor there using, the klipper team should have no issue doing a cross compilation. What I’m more wondering is given that people have already used exploits to gain root access whether someone could do some disassembly to get a perfect klipper port. I have a friend who’s pretty experienced doing hardware hacking on lots of closed source arcade consoles and the like…. If I get one on sale or refurbished or something we might make it a project.
You wouldn't want to void your warranty, but I can't imagine you can't flash standard klipper to the board? There is no Input shaper gyro? Probably have an issue with the display. But I don't even have displays on my klipper anymore.
The on-screen menu looks like a Bambu ripoff (and actually seems to be a Klipper ripoff), the extruder looks like a Bondtech LGX ripoff, Creality cloud is known for ripping off everyone's models, their slicer is just Cura with a worse (e.g. not configurable) UI and their phone app pushes ads and notifications on you. Bambu Lab is also not perfect (closed source firmware), but at least they actually _improved_ on the UI of Prusa Slicer, and they properly open source their own extensions (e.g. STEP file import) and their phone app is fine and ad free. Also: The K1 (now) costs the same as a P1P, and you exchange 1/3 less build volume, no camera, no PEI build plate, and no multicolor extensibility - all just for an enclosure. Why anyone would buy that is beyond me.
I got my new Elegoo Neptune 3 Max now and I love it to death. It is my 1st direct drive printer and it rocks. Large bed and great touch screen. The only two things I wish it had was Klipper and a all metal hot end. Then it would I think have been fantastic. I in two minds about the Elegoo Neptune 4 or pro version? They have klipper But the bed size is same as the Neptune 3 I have also. If they did a bed sized Neptune like the Max but with all metal hot end and klipper and have it core XY and enclosed, Then It would if priced well beat the Bambu X1 and the Creality K1 with ease.
If you want Klipper for "speed" a.k.a. input shaping, Marlin has you covered, if there is easy-to-build Elegoo fork (so you don't have to guess configuration and PlatformIO setup). New heatbreak will solve hotend. Manufacturers might still think "they all print PLA, PTFE will be easier for bowden" - which is not really the case.
@@kimmotoivanen Hi, Well, the Marlin speed option sounds interesting But I don't use windows 10 yet. I use windows 7 pro and no it is fine even when others say don't use it? The newer Cura 5.4 only works on win 10 not win 7 pro. I may upgrade to windows 10 pro soon as I found out I can upgrade from Microsoft directly for free still. My custom build PC has more than enough power and ram etc. to run windows 10 pro which would be the OS I can get as the upgrade since it upgrades to the same version in windows 10 you have before in windows 7. I would still need to see some video help on how to set up the Elegoo Neptune 4 pro in the new Cura 5.4 to do faster printing of course also how to do the high temperature hot end too as I not a programmer or high end tech expect unlike allot of lucky users and reviewers.
Looks to be the same size as the Bambu and CubePro, I'm hoping there will be a release where they can reach atleast the 300mm¾ so more props fit without having to cut them.
It doesn't, mine failed In 2 weeks and I'm 20 emails deep just trying to get replacement parts. One can only check the power button so many times before giving up.
The printer overall is kinda tempting, but the blocked external access to moonraker and the fact they patched the hack for full access to Klipper is a big deal breaker.
With regards to the Klipper issue, considering the different/custom chip architecture, I’m guessing you couldn’t just flash normal Klipper on there. However, would it be feasible to swap out the MCU with something like a BTT Octopus and get vanilla Klipper that way? I could see the toolhead breakout board potentially being an issue, but if it’s working in Creality Klipper, seems like it should work.
I am waiting for the K1 Max Went down to MicroCenter to see it in person, printed x3 18min benchies - 2 with high speed pla, and 1 with silk pla….there was notíciale ringing on the side surfaces….I was assured that the machine has very good quality- apparently they lost or some one stole the giant rubber feet….so I was Impressed by the machine 1st layer reliability but one it spooled up it fell apart….. My P1P prints beautifully in lúdricas mode
I need the Max. But I do have some questions. Am I to understand you just can't shove a piece of gcode into a klipper machine. My next rig needs to be a fast on 300-400mm/s. I really have been avoiding having to go to a RatRig or a Voron. I do not want to construct I just want to use. So the K1 looks great to me. But I do not want any printer smaller than a 300x300 bed. I considered Ankermake and Snap maker. But I can not find any speed numbers or good reviews of Snap maker.
I would be cautious of snapmaker, they have had some less than stellar reviews, people seem ok with the ankermake although I havent used one. Not sure what you mean about gcode, klipper ....ugh.....proper klipper can be made to understand any gcode command you want. Of course that's in the config that creality are locking down.
@@LostInTech3D what I was asking about gcode was. Can I slice on anything , cura, Simplified3d, Prusa and then put that gcode into the K1? or bambo or other klipper based machines?
Had some real bad experiences with Creality customer service: TLDR: I bought a sprite for my Ender Pro, and the nuts on the gantry wheels slam in the side of the frame when trying to use the right side of the bed, or using an ABL around that side. There's several solutions, but offering a 5$ gift certificate to compensate isn't the way to go. Anyway, on topic: what's with the glue bed? What's with the closed off Klipper. It looks nice, and It likely prints fast and in decent quality... But I feel like they need a few more sprints / iterations to work out silly kinks like making a glue stick mandatory, but not giving you one with it, etc...
I use Orca Slicer for our Bambu Labs printers and Flsun V400; if I was still using an Ender I would be using Orca for that too. I also keep Cura at my hand for things I cannot do with Orca. And for the industrial printers, all of them have proprietary slicers that are tailored for specific machines and they work just fine. Creality Slicer on the other hand, is just an outdated fork of Cura; so I see no point in using it for any Creality printer. This video shows that some of the most criticized points of K1 are not actually bad, but the whole "You HAVE TO use Creality Slicer" thing is a deal breaker for me. Not having full access to Klipper is another one. Great printer for its price, but no thanks.
The problem is the same issue with all printers at the moment and that being, its not a Bambu p1p. At this point the Bambu labs community is so obnoxious about any printer that is even remotely in the same price range (even some that are not) they want to bully it out of existence for.
The hotend broke within a day. Refuses to heat up anymore. Got about four prints out of it which were just test files. The ceramic heater needs a desperate redesign to prevent it from breaking so easily.
@@LostInTech3D Thank you, just actually received the new hotend this afternoon. They've changed about three things that i can see already. One the new sock is red, the thermistor is now externally placed on the outside of the lower brass ring. And lastly the connections for the heater element look a little more refined. Just installed it and going to run some tests. woohoo. And yes, Creality supplied me the hotend free of charge as the unit is still brand new.
I am a bit hesitant to go with the Creality. I currently have a CR10v2 that I modified that has been running for the past 3yrs+ non stop with my designs and prototyping. Now that I am done with that and about to move to production, the Bambu Lab seems to be a solid solution as I don’t really want to tinker anymore. I want to make things and sell the things I make.
As long as it works, I don't mind Klipper being locked down. I don't tend to mod my printers that way, and this will make sure I don't get things outta whack.
I think Creality has been outdone, not only by Bambu, but by Elegoo, and now Qidi Tech. In terms of low cost bed slingers, the Neptune 4 and 4 pro seem to have hit a home run. And in terms of the high end core XY machines, the Qidi Tech X-plus 3 and X-max 3 seem to be outclassing the K1. I really like the K1, and my only printer I have ever owned is an original CR-10 which has been great. But right now, I would not buy the K1 with all the issues I have seen others have. The Qidi has a 350 degree hot end, and an actively heated chamber, they are the ones pushing things foreword , and trying to give you something different than the competition.
Same questions I wanted answered from the other reviewers. Max flow with petg? Max accel that doesn't cause ghosting? Minimum achievable layer times? Typical retraction setting? Thanks!
- Not sure about PETG but PLA is 32mm^3/s. - Accel, ask me after I can access it (claimed to be 20k) - Didn't test that but the speed benchy looks like it's pretty low, also gonna depend on a few things - retraction is .5mm @ 40mm/s
@LostInTech3D Appreciate it. You tested the volumetric flow? My printers are always lower than claimed if I want to avoid rough infill or undercooked filament
@@1fareast14 using generic PLA and CHT clone, I can get 30m/s^3 with excellent later adhesion at 230c (the generic filament does recommend up to 230c). At 240c, I can 36m/s^3 with excellent adhesion and 50m/s^3 without skipping a line. I would have done further testing but I got the common hot-end heater problem. The revised hot end will hopefully resolve that problem.
You’re not entirely sure why people are shitting on it but the reason is the same as it’s always been: creality is allergic to proper QC. Watching a review about a creality product is useless because it’s a hit or miss with them. My first creality came with a warped bed. Not fixable had to be returned.
This isn't the first enclosed, core X-Y Creality made, they made the CR-200B which was pure garbage. I know, I owned one. It was my first 3D printer and was so bad it almost turned me off on the hobby altogether. Creality redeemed themselves with an open-box CR-6 SE that I picked up for $137. Had it not been for the bargain I got on the CR-6, I would likely have abandoned all interest in the hobby. The CR-200B has since been stripped down to spare parts and will go on ebay at some point as there aren't a lot of spare parts for it out there. Well, after a few 3D printers (Creality CR6, BIQU B1 and B1SE, and some resin printers, an Epax E10 clone and Creality Halot One), I almost pulled the trigger on a Bambu X1 Carbon when the K1 was released. I took a chance on the K1, fully intending to return it in frustration but it did surprise me and I kept it. I've had it for about 2 months now and it's done very well with everything I wanted. I've only printed PLA and PETG so far, going to try TPU soon though. It does come with a glue stick, maybe you missed it still in the packaging. I think it was in a compartment in a foam piece. I didn't use it more than a couple of times though, I ended up buying a PEI sheet and it works much better. As for the extruder, Creality redesigned it and I believe were giving out free replacements if you had the first generation, early release model and complained about it. They also have a deal where owners can get a $100 welcome kit for $3. It comes with another extruder, a spare hotend, the camera addition, and a spool of their "hyper-pla". As for being locked into their Creality Slicer software, I'm hoping someone will give us a profile to use in Cura soon. The supports CS generates are horrible compared to the regular Cura. I don't know why, but the same print on my FLSUN SR Delta printer has different/better/more supports than my Creality printed model does. Creality did a good job with the K1 series as far as I can tell, they seem to have done it right this time.
Wait, but where are the googly eyes, or at least one? ;) That's the most glue stick I've seen in one review, but then it's a bit of 3-in-1 review, so they can share.
Creality are in many ways a good company, but they clearly don't have the expertise to do a great job of software and keep taking open source and making barely/non compliant, annoyingly limited software. If they would only embrace the O/S community software they clearly want to use for what it is, they could earn a lot of goodwill and have a better product, sooner, for less money. They paid developers to hack about at Klipper and put a few logos on it - if they had simply used main branch Klipper and co-developed their extensions/customisations with the team, perhaps donated some money to the developers, they'd be able to positively advertise that this is fully Klipper compliant. I would want to buy that more.
For me it is just a no go. Creality has proven to me that they do not make good reliable machines that will just print over and over. Untill I see videos of people with these in their print farms praising them for just printing and not needing to constantly be tweaked or modified, I will stick with the bambu.
Call me a dummy, but why do you apply a gluestick and then complain about the parts really sticking and requiring a special tool to get them off? My Ender3v2 doesn't need anything special on the surface, why would this one need glue? It feels so 2019 to need glue....
The gluestick acts as a barrier to the bed, the bed itself sticks more than the plastic sticks to the glue, and can rip the bottom of your print off if there's no barrier
I probably wont be purchasing this. I need a printer to be dummy proof, so I guess I gotta stick with Bambu Lab. Lol. I'm just not interested in learning more about 3d printers. Just want to design and print things.
It’s called the K1, that K seems to indicate at some point they were planning to market it as Klipper printer and then a committee decided to use the made up (disingenuous) “CrealityOS” name. I guess the marketing department.
I've never used glue stick on my X1C PLA plate and it has never needed it. Adhesion is perfect without it. I'm interested to see the longevity of this printer. I've used lots of creality printers and have been relatively happy. It will take A LOT of convincing for me to move away from my X1C though. Edit: I commented too early. Yeah, the K1 is a solid noooo from me 😂. Just kept getting worse and worse the more I watched
The ring is for a metal shield to cover the components inside the ring. You typically put the ring into your V1 PCB design, incase it fails EMC testing (that is required to sell products in most countries). If it passes without the shield, you leave it off, and remove the ring in the next revision. Source: I design PCBs professionally, and have done the same.
Very nice review and I agree: Creality should follow the open-source Klipper... actually both on this printer AND on the Sonic Pad. About the printer itself: it's so great that Bambu is having competition.
My favourite 3d printing youtuber
@@duller9430 oi!
I wouldn’t consider this competition
OMG, an actual objectively fair review from someone who called out both Bambu and Creality for their shenanigans when they deserved it. This is why I back you on Patreon. THANK YOU!
Appreciate the support! :)
Fluid-duh-duh it will be known from here on out!
always has been
Fluidd. Think “Fluidity”.
That came out less than fluid.
You can get 'Blade tool' by searching glass scraper or something similar. I bought one ages ago and it is super useful but do NOT ever use it in any way sideways. If you bend the edge slightly in one direction you will end up scratching the bed with that one bent part. Hold it flat at a shallow angle to the bed and puch on the bottom of the print and it'll pop off (do not pry for the reason stated earlier).
yeah you have to operate it completely flat against the bed, or RIP your bed
Top tip: order plastic razors/scrapers. They are mostly used in the sign/printing industry.
Top tip 2: order non permanent multiple use adhesive spray, used mostly in the textile industry.
Why do that when you can get it and a glue stick for "free". Just buy the $1200 X1C instead of this $600 printer.
FYI I've had a lot more luck using orange plastic razor blades for removing prints from bed surfaces. I originally bought a huge pack for removing old gaskets from car parts without nicking the aluminum parts, but I use mine 99% of the time on my 3d printers. I haven't seen many 3d printing channels talk about them before.
Solid review. I think some teething issues can be expected. They definitely need to release their files. I think right now I would still buy this over a P1P.
As a 3D scupltor looking to acquire my first 3D printer can I humbly ask you a few pros/cons that would make you chose the K1 over the P1P ?
I've been reading arround those past days and almost settled for the P1P over the K1 which was the first to hold my interest initialy.
Thank you for your time :)
@@0dCore I don't own either, so I'd only be speaking from armchair experience. The main factor for me is simply price. The more open source nature of Creality matters as well, though they still have to live up to that with the K1. I will say overall the P1P is probably a bit better of a machine and at least replacement parts are affordable if ever needed. Both seem capable of doing pretty much all the same things, except the K1 comes enclosed already which will make switching to more advanced materials much less of a pain, and still at a lower price.
@@802Garage I see, thank you for your answer. It's 3 days later and because I can find the P1S at almost same price as the K1 in my area, I might go for this one as it's enclosed too... I'd prefer open source stuff too tbh but from my past days reading Creality printers seems to be less reliable in the long term than bambu labs ones ?
Now I'll have to read some more to make sure about that, since creality's summer K1 purchase offer gives out 100$ of extras for only 3 extra bucks which looks like a good deal... Down the rabbit hole hahaha.
@@0dCore If you can get the P1S for the same price as the K1, I'd definitely say go P1S TBH.
Just got mine so far so good I am impressed if only there customer support was as good as this printer
😂
i had the K1 for a week before refunding it over a bunch of issues, e.g. it could only do 15mm3 flow (tested ABS@285C) before shearing off filament on stock hardware, with a cht volcano it reached 30mm3 but print quality at 300mm/s wasn’t great and lastly it developed really loud resonance noises over belts rubbing against pulley shoulders. creality support tried their best but couldn’t resolve the issues. I hope the modding community develops upgrades just like the did for the ender series to make the k1 truly great
Maybe it's not the A plate, maybe it just comes with "a plate"
the next one you order is called "A Nother Plate"
I have been using my K1 for 5 days now, and i love it!
And this review is the most on point and personal i have seen!
I was worried in the beginning, since so many people have shown alot of "broken" machines all over social media.
I just went through all the screws i could find and checking so all was correctly tighten before starting printing. And not a single problem.
My personal thoughts, is that the biggest trouble with these printers are for beginners that haven't tinkering with normal bedslingers before. And thus dont have the experience in troubleshooting.
Once again, my personal thoughts.
Glad yours did good but wait for the anoying 004 error code of hotend, or binded extruder gear pins, its not cool, idea is great for creality but product quality is absolutely not cool
you're not even a week in my man. i feel bad for the inevitable extruder clogs and pin problems as well the other issues you're going to have
@@obie224
You know that my comment is over 3 weeks old now? 🤦
Got my X1 about a week ago. Came with 1 glue stick. Don't _need_ a scraper as it is a cool bed, you can/should wait a couple of minutes and then just flex it slightly to release the print. This is also much safer for the bed. So the scraper is not included as the bed is not designed to need one. With that said, Bambi does include a preinstalled model to print one. I kind of think this might be better. Let someone print one if they really need one and this way, they are also using their printer for a useful item (not just a million more Benchys). To the video. GREAT info and very well said. Really does being to light an issue that Creality needs to answer for and the only way they will is if a little shade is put on them.
general scraper, yes, but the bambu one is really sharp, obviously you need to use a good technique but I've not damaged either bed after hundreds of prints...as usual it comes down to taking care
This is why an honest review is always welcome. I really would like a decent but affordable Core XY printer with klipper. I thought this might be a good one to get, but seeing as they are crippling it, I will look elsewhere unless they do change that. Nobody wants to spend hundreds of dollars for something crippled.
We have the root password you can do whatever you want with it.
The algo brought me here and you got a sub, here’s to half a million more subs!
So I have a k1 and have had issues. Like everyone it’s the extruded they just designed it poorly so it’s seems for most people that’s what breaks. I opened mine up and I saw an issue that people had described which is that the extruded gears are mounted poorly and the screws bend over time. This happened to me so I put a bond tech lgx lite and it’s instantly fixed my print issues. But the other thing is not having access to klipper so I am not able to adjust e steps and had to change flow and retraction to get good prints. It’s just frustrating because this printer seems to be geared as a ready to print machine and if anyone bought it with little to no 3d printer knowledge they be very confused.
The clearly need to open up this printer.. so people can make it better, use Orca Slicer / CURA with it and load prints over the network to it etc. I'm a semi happy owner of a K1 (printing mainly PETG for hobby use). Also they should do something with the extruder, sell/send an upgraded version what has less issues with under extrusion imho (spent 5-6h on getting it to print PETG-carbon with their hardened .6 nozzle and failed)
100% agree with your summary. Seems like it was really close to being a home-run if Creality had not nerfed Klipper and just put regular Klipper on there and advertised it as much.
It’s there, both Fluidd and Mainsail, and you can get to it via an exploit, but then you’re locking yourself to a firmware version because Creality then _really_ removed Moonraker about 2 weeks ago.
I’m running Mainsail on mine and a coworker of mine is working to get it in parity with a conventional Mainsail install. Not budging on firmware until Creality gets its act together.
they did WHAT?
@@aspectcontext My issue with the exploit is that Creality opened up a security hole in Klipper (technically moonraker api) that allows you to move and replace the file in the /etc/shadow folder. This should never be allowed by any API. So running Crealitys Klipper, even if you have Fluid/Mainsail, is a security accident just waiting to happen.
I'll wait until its a real unmodified version of Klipper. Might never happen, but that is my holdup before even thinking about this printer. Otherwise, its not bad.
@@JohnOlsonYeah, if you don’t know what you’re doing, especially if you can’t read code and have little defensive networking experience, you could be in for a bad time.
All Creality needs to do is offer a menu that allows you beginners/non-tinkerers a path to Creality’s nerfed Klipper version, and full Fluid and/or Mainsail for those that know what they’re doing. Everyone wins.
@@aspectcontext Yes! 100%! Even better would be an option in their UI to change password before you put it on a network, or auto generate a better password.
I've been rocking the CR-10S since 2019 and I'm ready to get a new printer. I really like what Creality has done, but I'm also curious to see what Elegoo comes out with as I can only assume they are not far behind on something similar.
Hmm. The neptune 4 just came out and is my um...next...ish printer to review. It's not a corexy though!
I just bought one with the Prime Day offers, in my country the P1P price double the K1 price so was an easy decision
huh, nice, I looked at prime day and got bored of scrolling through rubbish I don't want
I bought one and its a huge step up from my anycubic i3s i am really happy with it
"It's kind of like a display cabinet that prints!" 😆
I ordered a K1 Max a few days ago. I'm hoping the open sourcing they're planning to do in September also means full access to Klipper. I'm sure there'll be a shitstorm if they don't.
err yeah lets hope so
One thing I realized is on my x1c the LiDAR has trouble with powerful lights. I placed a led light on top and the first print gave me an error with the LiDAR. I took it off and it was fine again. I took the diffuser off and it helps a bit without causing problems with the LiDAR
good review ... thanks .. my max will be arriving in a few days.. getting back into 3d printing.. long way to go.. since my last stint in Tevo tarantula many years ago.
Great review!! While I’m still using my old ender3 I’m wanting a new printer, this COULD BE a possibility if they would just get their act together, the klipper thing, the slicer thing, and of course the cloud thing! All strikes against them, they have to know it, you know they watch the reviews! I seen an add for the K1 last night at a price of $539! But then the reviews they included were mostly dissatisfied people with problems and no response from creality except for the guy answering the reviews saying he was sorry and to contact customer service!! Come on Creality, get out the log chain and pull your head out of your a$$es!!
there is code floating around the internet and youtube that reduces VFA to almost nonexistence. Note that it does in fact slow your prints down a bit but I would prefer a perfect looking print and it is a 5 minute free fix. I think Creality may have included it as a firmware update because when I updated my firmware, VFA issues ceased to be a thing. I also want to point out that you can install bog standard klipper and fluidd on the k1. Creality even provides the specs you need to put into the configs.
From what I've heard, source code should be coming soon. Then for the love of god please just let us put Klipper on here. community firmware would make this thing a lot of fun for modders.
t. Yet Another Creality Shill.
Exactly. The key advantage this machine has is it's moddability and all that is hindered by locking it down.
It seems to like the K1 could end up favorably comparing to the X1 Carbon like the Ender 3 compared to the Prusa Mk3 - it's not quite the same experience, the premium machine overall is still going to be objectively better, but you pay half the price for much more than half the value. On that front alone, I *might* consider getting one some day, though I am fully enamored with the idea of a good IDEX machine in a useful size at a not-obscene price, and would get such a printer instead of a K1.
That potential won't be fully realized if Creality doesn't remedy their license violations and make it easy to mod, upgrade, and repair the printer. The Ender 3 is kind of the king of easy-to-do-stuff-to printers, from something as simple as adding storage for tools and supplies or as complicated as extending all the axes to octuple the print volume or add a second independent extruder. And if something breaks, parts practically grow on trees (assuming you can't just print it yourself to begin with based on thousands of mods and parts found on Thingiverse or Printables). One of the first thoughts I had about the K1 is that there are so many custom metal, glass, or injection-molded parts that spares, replacements, and upgrades might be harder or more expensive to come by, whereas you could source all the parts for something that looks identical to an Ender 3 after spending twenty minutes on AliExpress. (If anyone knows where to get a pre-drilled original Ender 3 X-axis gantry extrusion, by the way, help a brother out - having screwed it up is the last idea I have for what's gone wrong with my Ender 3 and I'm not very good with power tools.)
I also wonder if the K1 and K1 Max signal an intent from Creality to partially abandon the super-budget printer market to companies like Sovol and instead focus on the mid-range market that has been buying Prusas and P1Ps.
Really curious about the Max and seeing if they fix all the issues people are reporting
I have a K1 too, and I am having some trouble to get at the level of quality of my ender 3.
I needed to oil up my axes to improve the quality of my print but there is still some artefact.
But I do like the speed of the machine and the cooling is great.
It has looks for sure!
mine being delivered tomorrow. I was going to get the MAX BUT i have the S1 Plus, which, the one i got, has awesome quality at 200mms so i don't need another huge machine. Second, i also have a JGMaker Artist 3D pro which is "OK" but looking forward to this K1 because i don't always need that build volume of the Max / S1 Plus
I think you'll enjoy it, it's way better than the other two you mentioned.
I'll probably get a K1 in a few months, when Creality has hopefully had a few rolling upgrades for teething issues and the feeding frenzy has died down, although I saw the K1 on Creality's website on a flash sale a couple of days ago for $531. I'd like the larger print volume of the K1 Max (available 14JUL23 according to Creality but I expect that deadline to slip), but I don't want the complexity or cost of lidar or the camera, which I assume to be more Bambu-Me-Too marketing than useful features from Creality's engineering department. I'm OK printing from USB and Creality makes that easy with a front panel USB-A port and 8 GB of internal memory to store products that I print and sell online, but I'll probably hack the K1 to install the full version of Klipper instead of Creality's open source license violating crippleware.
Benefiting from open source and not giving back or providing the source code as legally required (knowing the open source community doesn't have a team of lawyers to sue them) or even giving attribution for the nicked software makes me angry. Creality deserves scorn for this and I can see where people wouldn't want to buy a product from a company with no respect for intellectual property, rule of law or common decency.
For all of the modern advances, Creality and Bambu Lab requiring a glue stick seems like a big step backwards in 2023. They should offer a set of magnetic print surfaces that work with all common filaments without glue sticks. I print a lot of TPU. It's very convenient to peel the part off the textured glass and print another part without messing with messy glue sticks. Glue sticks are a big turn off for me.
There's no reason you can't use PEI on a machine like this. Perhaps that's bed B, who knows.
@@LostInTech3D - Like all things Creality, the aftermarket will supply fixes and upgrades (better magnetic print surfaces, etc.) and the users will supply files for 3D printed parts (carbon filter holder for the exhaust fan, etc.) and hacks (full Klipper instead of Creality stealing the open source Klipper and then crippling it, etc.).
@@LostInTech3D You can even get the Ender-5 S1 PEI Printing Plate and put it directly on where it lines up with the alignment screws. Not officially bed B, but may as well be.
A few years ago, Creality did the same thing on another platform where they used Marlin but wouldn't release the code. Chinese RUclipsr Naomi Wu met with Creality management and got them to see the error of their ways. Subsequently, they released the code. Maybe she would be willing to do that again with their Klipper version?
@@Liberty4Ever @LostInTech3D My pure speculation here on the bed - they simply copied what Bambu did with the X1 Carbon. Bambu's rationale for this bed was they wanted a bed that would allow especially PLA to stick well at a lower bed temp because 60C in an enclosed chamber is a recipe for extruder clogs from glassed PLA in the tube unless you vent the chamber with a fan, and I think Bambu was trying not to do that because they knew one legit criticism of their X1 Carbon was it's loud AF, and blasting the chamber fan isn't helping matters. In the case of the X1 Carbon, it's stupid anyway because there's so much other noisy stuff with that printer, like the violent clanging when it wipes its nozzle. But eventually, Bambu's users were hating the bed, so Bambu relented and released their own PEI plates after the third party market ate their lunch for months. And Bambu included a profile for PEI beds that turned on the chamber fan and raised the bed temp to 55C, and magically PLA worked on PEI without opening the door or propping the glass lid up with a vent print. My guess is Creality just copied them on the original idea because they made most of their design decisions based on what Bambu did instead of making their own informed design decision.
Now they just need to make an AMS and I'll buy it in a heartbeat. Atm I'm still debating the bambu just for that function ngl
I don't think it's on their radar, I'm speculating of course, based on the design of the hotend. You'd need to cut the filament, and there's no provision for that.
I had heard of the k1, but was not aware of a max version in the works. As someone looking to finally get a new printer but could not decide between a large bed and the p1p/x1c, creality might have found a winning combo (assuming it performs)
I got a glue stick with mine, as well as a tube of lube. I preordered in late april. I have one weird problem (and I think it might be filament?). It prints layer one just fine, maybe even a couple of layers. then it stops depositing filament, and happily "air prints" away, leaving a large blob on the nozzle, and or strings everywhere. Sometimes.
Are you taking the lid off when printing PLA? That sounds suspiciously like heat creep. Wonder where my glue stick went lol.
I had the same happen with PETG, lid on. Had 2 x 2hr prints go fine, then had it happen once halfway through on a 4hr print, changed to a quicker print worked fine, back to the 4hr and it did it again within 30mins of the previous fail.
Rooted with full fluidd and a fixed up printer.cfg makes this thing amazing. Bit of a PLA princess tho. My P1P handles PETG with much less work than my K1. Seen some great ASA prints and TPU seems hit or miss, some can't print it at all and some have fantastic TPU prints.
Can you tell us something about serviceability? Many complain about the bambus that you can only change whole assemblies (gantry) and not single components (bronze bushings, idlers).
The vfas are induced by the large steppers and large pulleys. Lower rpm typically results in more vfa, peaking at around 1,25 revolutions per second (50mm/s on a 20t, ldo steppers are particularly known for vfa, see prusa mk3). I dont know the size of the pulleys used and outer wall spees, i would assume by the looks 60t pulleys, so 150mm/s would be the critical vfa speed. I have no idea why they chose larger pulleys, my best guess is to stay in stealthchop longer, although with the fan noise stepper noise wouldn't be noticeable.
seems quite serviceable tbh, considering what it is
the lidar is there for flow calibration, not for perfect first layers :)
Haha yes, of course 😅
I think it's admirable what Creality did but I have had such bad luck with Creality printers and while their engineers are more than willing to hear my concerns, The only rule the changes out to the next machine.
It's for this reason that the K1 Max will be a great printer probably... Because I had a long convo with the engineering team about the frame issues my Ender 5S1 has and seeing that moved away from extrudered aluminum I can tell they're listening.
As a 3D printing consumer in basement mad scientist the more good printers on the market the better for everyone
here is the deal: I'm currently building a voron 2.4 300, but if creality changes their mind instead of the future trident or Vcore3 I will go for this, since it would be everything that the X1C isn't
What is the X1C missing for you?
@@IBIScnc right to repair/right to modify/open source(nes)
Had multiple extruder issues with my unit off the rip. Tried 3 prints and it wasn't able to succeed at any of them, unit was returned. I have an ender 3 v2 which is more reliable...more than likely going for a p1p carbon next
You don’t need to use glue stick. I never use it and it works fine!
Good afternoon. Interesting review.
The drive of the three Z screws is also interesting.
I would like to know your opinion about the SL_ST 3D printer design.
I've been thinking for a long time about how to move the table along Z.
My development has been lying for a long time, gathering dust.
So I decided to share it.
Honestly…. If Klipper on it was open sourced……. I might actually go for one. I love my Bambulab but a cheaper, functional, open source klipper printer would be amazing. Might even push Bambulab to go open source.
This has got me thinking about trying to hack the thing open. We shall see. I have some experience programming MIPS.
I have zero mips knowledge, not that I have much ARM either, but yeah, my whole point, why are they doing this, its making it harder for everyone.
@@LostInTech3D absolutely. I’m guessing it’s a cost saving measure but honestly I can’t see on such a “low power” required machine there being no ARM chips available but with the knowledge of what MIPS processor there using, the klipper team should have no issue doing a cross compilation. What I’m more wondering is given that people have already used exploits to gain root access whether someone could do some disassembly to get a perfect klipper port. I have a friend who’s pretty experienced doing hardware hacking on lots of closed source arcade consoles and the like…. If I get one on sale or refurbished or something we might make it a project.
Have you tried accessing the config file through entering the address to it, surely they only deleted the navbar on the left
haha yeah I thought of that! Sadly nope.
You wouldn't want to void your warranty, but I can't imagine you can't flash standard klipper to the board? There is no Input shaper gyro? Probably have an issue with the display. But I don't even have displays on my klipper anymore.
The on-screen menu looks like a Bambu ripoff (and actually seems to be a Klipper ripoff), the extruder looks like a Bondtech LGX ripoff, Creality cloud is known for ripping off everyone's models, their slicer is just Cura with a worse (e.g. not configurable) UI and their phone app pushes ads and notifications on you.
Bambu Lab is also not perfect (closed source firmware), but at least they actually _improved_ on the UI of Prusa Slicer, and they properly open source their own extensions (e.g. STEP file import) and their phone app is fine and ad free.
Also: The K1 (now) costs the same as a P1P, and you exchange 1/3 less build volume, no camera, no PEI build plate, and no multicolor extensibility - all just for an enclosure.
Why anyone would buy that is beyond me.
Pipe down bambu paid pumper lmao
decent printer, hope they evolve from this point
Mine has to go back. Bad hot end, bad extruder, bed 2mm out and the frame is bent. So they finally said to send it back to them.
that is quite a list!
I got my new Elegoo Neptune 3 Max now and I love it to death. It is my 1st direct drive printer and it rocks.
Large bed and great touch screen. The only two things I wish it had was Klipper and a all metal hot end. Then it would I think have been fantastic.
I in two minds about the Elegoo Neptune 4 or pro version? They have klipper But the bed size is same as the Neptune 3 I have also.
If they did a bed sized Neptune like the Max but with all metal hot end and klipper and have it core XY and enclosed, Then It would if priced well beat the Bambu X1 and the Creality K1 with ease.
If you want Klipper for "speed" a.k.a. input shaping, Marlin has you covered, if there is easy-to-build Elegoo fork (so you don't have to guess configuration and PlatformIO setup).
New heatbreak will solve hotend. Manufacturers might still think "they all print PLA, PTFE will be easier for bowden" - which is not really the case.
@@kimmotoivanen Hi, Well, the Marlin speed option sounds interesting But I don't use windows 10 yet. I use windows 7 pro and no it is fine even when others say don't use it?
The newer Cura 5.4 only works on win 10 not win 7 pro. I may upgrade to windows 10 pro soon as I found out I can upgrade from Microsoft directly for free still.
My custom build PC has more than enough power and ram etc. to run windows 10 pro which would be the OS I can get as the upgrade since it upgrades to the same version in windows 10 you have before in windows 7.
I would still need to see some video help on how to set up the Elegoo Neptune 4 pro in the new Cura 5.4 to do faster printing of course also how to do the high temperature hot end too as I not a programmer or high end tech expect unlike allot of lucky users and reviewers.
Looks to be the same size as the Bambu and CubePro, I'm hoping there will be a release where they can reach atleast the 300mm¾ so more props fit without having to cut them.
K1 Max is available from 14th apparently, link in desc, go have a poke around.
It doesn't, mine failed In 2 weeks and I'm 20 emails deep just trying to get replacement parts. One can only check the power button so many times before giving up.
i am intrigued
That extruder is a direct clone of the Bondtech LGX Lite.
The printer overall is kinda tempting, but the blocked external access to moonraker and the fact they patched the hack for full access to Klipper is a big deal breaker.
Honestly never used glue stick and never had a problem on mine...
With regards to the Klipper issue, considering the different/custom chip architecture, I’m guessing you couldn’t just flash normal Klipper on there. However, would it be feasible to swap out the MCU with something like a BTT Octopus and get vanilla Klipper that way? I could see the toolhead breakout board potentially being an issue, but if it’s working in Creality Klipper, seems like it should work.
yeah you could gut it and put your own controller in there, and I guess try to reverse engineer the toolhead.
@@LostInTech3D is it CANbus? Or is there a pair of wires for everything going back to the underside(fans, HE, Thermistor, etc)
I am waiting for the K1 Max
Went down to MicroCenter to see it in person, printed x3 18min benchies - 2 with high speed pla, and 1 with silk pla….there was notíciale ringing on the side surfaces….I was assured that the machine has very good quality- apparently they lost or some one stole the giant rubber feet….so I was Impressed by the machine 1st layer reliability but one it spooled up it fell apart…..
My P1P prints beautifully in lúdricas mode
I need the Max. But I do have some questions. Am I to understand you just can't shove a piece of gcode into a klipper machine. My next rig needs to be a fast on 300-400mm/s. I really have been avoiding having to go to a RatRig or a Voron. I do not want to construct I just want to use. So the K1 looks great to me. But I do not want any printer smaller than a 300x300 bed. I considered Ankermake and Snap maker. But I can not find any speed numbers or good reviews of Snap maker.
I would be cautious of snapmaker, they have had some less than stellar reviews, people seem ok with the ankermake although I havent used one. Not sure what you mean about gcode, klipper ....ugh.....proper klipper can be made to understand any gcode command you want. Of course that's in the config that creality are locking down.
@@LostInTech3D what I was asking about gcode was. Can I slice on anything , cura, Simplified3d, Prusa and then put that gcode into the K1? or bambo or other klipper based machines?
Had some real bad experiences with Creality customer service: TLDR: I bought a sprite for my Ender Pro, and the nuts on the gantry wheels slam in the side of the frame when trying to use the right side of the bed, or using an ABL around that side. There's several solutions, but offering a 5$ gift certificate to compensate isn't the way to go.
Anyway, on topic: what's with the glue bed? What's with the closed off Klipper.
It looks nice, and It likely prints fast and in decent quality... But I feel like they need a few more sprints / iterations to work out silly kinks like making a glue stick mandatory, but not giving you one with it, etc...
That's a spanner mate
How is the bed levelled and is the speed as good as the claims ??
same way as the p1p, using strain gauges in the bed so completely automated. The speed is indeed as claimed.
@@LostInTech3D thanks
Can you please share the link to the stl @5:02? Thanks
it's shared in the desc - "cinderwing baby dragon" or something
Ive got a K1, well over 50 hours of printing. Its not let me down yet. Creality slicer is weird though.
Some units just seem to work, tbh that is not uncommon with creality. My ender 3 V2 never broke down either!
I use Orca Slicer for our Bambu Labs printers and Flsun V400; if I was still using an Ender I would be using Orca for that too. I also keep Cura at my hand for things I cannot do with Orca. And for the industrial printers, all of them have proprietary slicers that are tailored for specific machines and they work just fine. Creality Slicer on the other hand, is just an outdated fork of Cura; so I see no point in using it for any Creality printer.
This video shows that some of the most criticized points of K1 are not actually bad, but the whole "You HAVE TO use Creality Slicer" thing is a deal breaker for me. Not having full access to Klipper is another one. Great printer for its price, but no thanks.
As a printer I think the k1 looks great, it looks solid and cool hahaha, forgive me if I feel good about it from the outside!🤣
The problem is the same issue with all printers at the moment and that being, its not a Bambu p1p. At this point the Bambu labs community is so obnoxious about any printer that is even remotely in the same price range (even some that are not) they want to bully it out of existence for.
The hotend broke within a day. Refuses to heat up anymore. Got about four prints out of it which were just test files. The ceramic heater needs a desperate redesign to prevent it from breaking so easily.
I forgot to mention because there's so much going on, but the hotend HAS had a redesign, someone on twitter showed me it. Get in touch with them.
@@LostInTech3D Thank you, just actually received the new hotend this afternoon. They've changed about three things that i can see already. One the new sock is red, the thermistor is now externally placed on the outside of the lower brass ring. And lastly the connections for the heater element look a little more refined. Just installed it and going to run some tests. woohoo. And yes, Creality supplied me the hotend free of charge as the unit is still brand new.
I am a bit hesitant to go with the Creality. I currently have a CR10v2 that I modified that has been running for the past 3yrs+ non stop with my designs and prototyping. Now that I am done with that and about to move to production, the Bambu Lab seems to be a solid solution as I don’t really want to tinker anymore. I want to make things and sell the things I make.
Hard pass with the lack of open source, this is why people didn't originally buy the ender series, if the are locking down its a hard pass for me
As long as it works, I don't mind Klipper being locked down. I don't tend to mod my printers that way, and this will make sure I don't get things outta whack.
2023 and still using gluestick. Maybe creality and even bambu will learn form 2015 prusa on how to do build plates right.
We have 10 of them all are amazing. Prefer over our P1P's
I think Creality has been outdone, not only by Bambu, but by Elegoo, and now Qidi Tech. In terms of low cost bed slingers, the Neptune 4 and 4 pro seem to have hit a home run. And in terms of the high end core XY machines, the Qidi Tech X-plus 3 and X-max 3 seem to be outclassing the K1. I really like the K1, and my only printer I have ever owned is an original CR-10 which has been great. But right now, I would not buy the K1 with all the issues I have seen others have. The Qidi has a 350 degree hot end, and an actively heated chamber, they are the ones pushing things foreword , and trying to give you something different than the competition.
Same questions I wanted answered from the other reviewers. Max flow with petg? Max accel that doesn't cause ghosting? Minimum achievable layer times? Typical retraction setting? Thanks!
- Not sure about PETG but PLA is 32mm^3/s.
- Accel, ask me after I can access it (claimed to be 20k)
- Didn't test that but the speed benchy looks like it's pretty low, also gonna depend on a few things
- retraction is .5mm @ 40mm/s
@LostInTech3D Appreciate it. You tested the volumetric flow? My printers are always lower than claimed if I want to avoid rough infill or undercooked filament
@@1fareast14 using generic PLA and CHT clone, I can get 30m/s^3 with excellent later adhesion at 230c (the generic filament does recommend up to 230c). At 240c, I can 36m/s^3 with excellent adhesion and 50m/s^3 without skipping a line. I would have done further testing but I got the common hot-end heater problem. The revised hot end will hopefully resolve that problem.
@xsvforce3335 That's what I was looking to hear, glad that Creality are giving realistic numbers (assuming stock nozzle is also cht)
You’re not entirely sure why people are shitting on it but the reason is the same as it’s always been: creality is allergic to proper QC. Watching a review about a creality product is useless because it’s a hit or miss with them. My first creality came with a warped bed. Not fixable had to be returned.
Mine came with glue and other accessories
Infamous?
The K1 is has a reputation of the worst kind or is notoriously evil?
2:25 I'm almost speechless. Have you never mowed a lawn? Why are you applying the glue in that manner and not in even, sequential, rows or columns?
Lawns are bad for insects! 😁
This isn't the first enclosed, core X-Y Creality made, they made the CR-200B which was pure garbage. I know, I owned one. It was my first 3D printer and was so bad it almost turned me off on the hobby altogether. Creality redeemed themselves with an open-box CR-6 SE that I picked up for $137. Had it not been for the bargain I got on the CR-6, I would likely have abandoned all interest in the hobby. The CR-200B has since been stripped down to spare parts and will go on ebay at some point as there aren't a lot of spare parts for it out there.
Well, after a few 3D printers (Creality CR6, BIQU B1 and B1SE, and some resin printers, an Epax E10 clone and Creality Halot One), I almost pulled the trigger on a Bambu X1 Carbon when the K1 was released. I took a chance on the K1, fully intending to return it in frustration but it did surprise me and I kept it. I've had it for about 2 months now and it's done very well with everything I wanted. I've only printed PLA and PETG so far, going to try TPU soon though.
It does come with a glue stick, maybe you missed it still in the packaging. I think it was in a compartment in a foam piece. I didn't use it more than a couple of times though, I ended up buying a PEI sheet and it works much better.
As for the extruder, Creality redesigned it and I believe were giving out free replacements if you had the first generation, early release model and complained about it. They also have a deal where owners can get a $100 welcome kit for $3. It comes with another extruder, a spare hotend, the camera addition, and a spool of their "hyper-pla".
As for being locked into their Creality Slicer software, I'm hoping someone will give us a profile to use in Cura soon. The supports CS generates are horrible compared to the regular Cura. I don't know why, but the same print on my FLSUN SR Delta printer has different/better/more supports than my Creality printed model does.
Creality did a good job with the K1 series as far as I can tell, they seem to have done it right this time.
Wait, but where are the googly eyes, or at least one? ;)
That's the most glue stick I've seen in one review, but then it's a bit of 3-in-1 review, so they can share.
It fell off!
Creality are in many ways a good company, but they clearly don't have the expertise to do a great job of software and keep taking open source and making barely/non compliant, annoyingly limited software.
If they would only embrace the O/S community software they clearly want to use for what it is, they could earn a lot of goodwill and have a better product, sooner, for less money. They paid developers to hack about at Klipper and put a few logos on it - if they had simply used main branch Klipper and co-developed their extensions/customisations with the team, perhaps donated some money to the developers, they'd be able to positively advertise that this is fully Klipper compliant. I would want to buy that more.
I bought "two" Creality printers.......
cant use 3rd party slicers though and the included slicer is junk
you absolutely can use 3rd party slicers.
Saw another video saying it was locked glad that’s not true thanks for clearing that up for me much apreciated. Going to wait for the max
Just use 3D Lac
I get on well with glue tbh. For ABS it might be another story
The bambu paid pumpers are pooping their pants lmao. They resorted back to the shadows of their subreddit.
I admire the alliteration but you should wait to the end of the week before getting excited
For me it is just a no go. Creality has proven to me that they do not make good reliable machines that will just print over and over. Untill I see videos of people with these in their print farms praising them for just printing and not needing to constantly be tweaked or modified, I will stick with the bambu.
my K1 is junk it just never prints right ill stick with my p1p I have several and run a print farm
Call me a dummy, but why do you apply a gluestick and then complain about the parts really sticking and requiring a special tool to get them off?
My Ender3v2 doesn't need anything special on the surface, why would this one need glue? It feels so 2019 to need glue....
The gluestick acts as a barrier to the bed, the bed itself sticks more than the plastic sticks to the glue, and can rip the bottom of your print off if there's no barrier
Exactly. It's a release agent on this type of bed.
put k1 bed on your ender u will see glue is not adhesive on that build sheet its release agent
I personally use Hairspray, easy application
I'd be more willing to buy it if it didn't share the same bed size as my Ender 3 Pro.
Along with it being another Creality machine.
I probably wont be purchasing this. I need a printer to be dummy proof, so I guess I gotta stick with Bambu Lab. Lol.
I'm just not interested in learning more about 3d printers. Just want to design and print things.
It’s called the K1, that K seems to indicate at some point they were planning to market it as Klipper printer and then a committee decided to use the made up (disingenuous) “CrealityOS” name. I guess the marketing department.
It *could* have been the best looking printer if they made it a little taller without the ugly top hat thing.
Any bed requiring glue is garbage. If your using your printer professionally the last thing you want to do is clean glue from your finished prints
ultimaker has entered the chat
The hype? I think the only ones hyping this printer are Creality themselves.
I've never used glue stick on my X1C PLA plate and it has never needed it. Adhesion is perfect without it. I'm interested to see the longevity of this printer. I've used lots of creality printers and have been relatively happy. It will take A LOT of convincing for me to move away from my X1C though.
Edit: I commented too early. Yeah, the K1 is a solid noooo from me 😂. Just kept getting worse and worse the more I watched
I'd buy one if they'd give me real Klipper...
I have passed that on to them
The way you are applying glue on the bed triggers me, ngl
why is everyone suddenly a glue-ologist?! :D
If you say fluid duh duh one more time....
mains sail