Hey man, great vid as usual. Have you considered designing a printer, might be a cool addition to the channel. Just a video series idea, there is very little resource on that online
I think that would be way above my abilities. I am just a fellow user figuring out small things and just sharing what I come across. But thanks for all the support :)
Nice vid. I loved the toilet paper mod :D I personally fixed it with a couple of winds of electric tape at the end of the spool holder. It does not let the bearings to do their job, and the pipe is slipery enough to let the spool roll when pulled. I think it works purrrfect :D
I started my spools on my SV07 by loading it backwards, so it unloads from the bottom of the spool. once the winding calms down, I flip it back. In addition, I affixed the cover to the back of the cooling fan to help gently guide the ribbon cable out of the way of the print. my last SV07 failed due to the ribbon cable falling apart from too much flexing in one spot
Hey, thanks for the video. I got my SV08 a few weeks ago now and i havnt run into any issues so far. I directly acitaved the full potential of klipper and optimized the Start G-Code and many small stuff. But i also used a 3d printed housing, because its cheaper and i think also better isolated than the original one. Maybe you should make a video, not as deep as your current ones, about the SV08 with a good short summary of the upgrades. Also i think there is way more potential in the SOFTWARE than in hardware upgrades .... just MY opinion :) keep it up! very symphatic guy u are ! :)
I actually did a whole, very detailed video on the subject → ruclips.net/video/86CFV_CbrvQ/видео.html. Of course, with the SV08, everything is already installed and ready to go. It's as simple as switching the option in Mainsail settings to enable the timelapse and then downloading the finished result. My video even includes tips on how to salvage broken timelapses.
gerGO, Thanks for the SV08 content. I saw in your introduction you had an Error 8 'Klipper has Shutdown' (timestamp 0:55). I am receiving the same Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1' on my SV08 printer during long prints. I have not completed a full long print yet because I keep receiving the Error 8 and Klipper resets and losing the whole print. This is very frustrating and aggravating and I have accrued a lot of wasted filament too. How did you fix it? I contacted Sovol and I adjusted all four Z-axis motor amperage in Klipper from .58 to .48 amps and from silent mode to non-silent mode and replaced the Z2 stepper motor and Z2 cable. That did not fix the issue and finally I replaced the SV08 motherboard and I'm still receiving Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1'. What was your solution to fix the Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1' issue?
It only happened once here. I talk about it in the video ruclips.net/video/hCsBGvjoXOA/видео.html. I concluded that it was likely caused by overheating due to the summer heat and the increased work for the Z motors because of the higher Z-hop distance in that particular print. If this keeps happening to you, make sure that the back-right corner of the printer is not pushed into a corner of the desk or walls where air ventilation is limited. In the worst case, you can add a fan (you might be able to share the header with the newly updated load-activated case fan) to help keep it cool.
Hi, I just klipperized my sv06 with sovol's kit. I saw your video. in that video you said something about sovol needing to include one of those ferrite cores . I wanted to mention they added one to the usb cable, and thanks for all the info!
GerGo in your opinion sv08 i good printer for small print farm. After your upgrades will work ok. Usually i print 12 h / 6 day a week abs or asa. now i have 6 printer reborn 2 i i want update all and sorry for my english
For printing with ABS and ASA, you should add a chamber heater. It’s easy to do. Watch my Qidi Tech Q1 Pro comparison video → ruclips.net/video/ynRUsIDnBwA/видео.html If a smaller print area is okay for you, it could be a good option, but I’m not very happy with its extruder. The SV08 has a good motion system, extruder, big print area, and is easy to upgrade because it’s open source. But for temperature-sensitive materials, it takes a long time to heat the large print area using only the bed. Adding a chamber heater will make it a great machine, even for a print farm.
Another note for folks with the stock MCU fan; cut the punched "grill" out. Those stamped holes are shockingly bad for restricting airflow; leave it open or find a low-profile, high-flow grill to print (I hot-glued thing:4288719 to the bottom of the rivnuts, but you do you).
FWIW, the zip-tie method really isn't a big deal. I've had to remove the tie once since installing it to swap in a fresh nozzle on my SV08. Might print the clip anyway. That damned spool holder on the other hand has caused at least 2 or 3 larger prints to fail because it unwinds. Twice it also had a "tangle" when the filament hit the end of the spool where they tuck it for winding. Just happened on a big piece, really annoying. You also might want to include something about using the built-in _CALIBRATION_ZOFFSET macro instead of the QGL - Said macro homes, does the QGL, cleans the nozzle, probes the plate to find "zero", then calibrates the probe pressure and checks the probe distance from the nozzle before homing again. Only adds about a minute to a print and gives me nice clean first layers. You thought about moving to mainline Klipper and/or installing an upgraded probe or hotend? I got an Eddy and the board flasher, looking forward to that high speed 100x100 bed mesh. Been putting it off because I got 3 new printers and I had to do maintenance on 3 others, plus printing tasks.
Hey Clint! Thanks for the kind permission to use your spectacular timelapses!! I aim to keep my printer as close to stock as possible to be able to help regular users. My self-tasked mission is to bring out the most from the stock SV08 (my T300 is another story... ruclips.net/video/Ni-Gmygg1g8/видео.html). Anyway, I could be lucky, but my bed is not so bad and the QGL + regular ABL mesh provides me with a pretty even first layer, sufficient for basis for multi-day prints. I think the key is to let it heat soak 10 minutes before starting to scan, and make sure to provoke that crack sound before starting the pre-print calibrations, that's when the bed actually takes up its expanded shape. Yes, 1 extra minute with your extended macro vs about 10 minutes with my heat soaking, but the result is similar, and this is something I can actually recommend to new owners of the printer, as opposed to switching software and replacing some components. Hence these "tiny" upgrades vs complete toolhead swaps... Maybe in a few months I get itchy and start moving things around in my SV08 as well, but for now, its good enough as it is.
@@gerGoPrint3D No problem, glad it can be put to use. My process starts with a heatsoak as well, I just use the z-offset calibration instead of the basic gantry level. I mention the calibration macro because using it + heat soaking, my bed mesh variance dropped from an average of 0.600-0.650mm to 0.300-0.400mm. I watched your videos on the printer with eager anticipation while I waited for mine, so I was aware of the shortcomings and tweaks that may be necessary. Big resource for people who are undecided, or who took the dive but aren't getting the results they want. The SV08 is an impressive beast, mine has over 640 hours of print time since July 20th. Made it to about 580 hours before I had to break down and tune the belts and swap a nozzle. Everything from giant prints to (large) tabletop scale stuff. The Eddy wasn't necessary, I just prefer precision. The SV08 has managed to match both Bambu A1 and Prusa XL quality while moving significantly faster than either one. At this point I just heat soak the printer while I login to the workstation, load Orca, pick a model and slice it. By the time the slicer is done, I can run the z-offset macro and then hit send. I could probably simplify that by editing the start gcode to include the zoffset instead of the QGL.
Great video, on my spool holder and hotend cover I used tape.For the mid print error where print just stopped, I realized I had to many files stored on the SV08 from Klipper.Once I deleted some of them it seemed to print fine.I stopped using the spool holder but like your fix for it.Hotend cover with scotch clear tape works for now.TH3D here in the USA had a quieter fan I put below the printer that was the same size as original.This worked for me.Noticed my hotend fan has not been working for at least the last 10 prints,so when its was thrown off printer before using tape to hold it on, it must of broke a wire. I keep forgetting to check it. Still printing perfest without it. Keep up the great videos, I enjoy watching them.
Great tip about deleting unnecessary files-that can definitely help avoid mid-print errors. I’d still recommend adding the case fan block; it’ll make your quieter fan run less often and extend its life. Thanks for the detailed feedback! Your solutions, like using tape and the quieter fan from TH3D, are great tips for the community. The SV08 part cooling has good headroom, so unless you’re working on a tricky print, the main part cooling fan should be sufficient. However, it’s still a good idea to replace it as soon as possible for better performance.
Hola buen dia desearia saber si cuentas con los diagramas electricos de la fuente de poder de la sovol 07 plus el dia de hoy me encontraba trabajando con ella y de la nada empezo a soltar chispas y creo corto circuito necesito revisarlo a fondo pero quisiera saber si me pudieras compartir ese diagrama tecnico en caso de que lo tengas. gracias por tus videos, tan informativos y de alto detalle
I am sorry to hear about the accident. Glad to hear you are safe. Unfortunately I don't have any technical information about the power supply. But it's a standard Meanwell, you can replace it for cheap, and you can probably find good documentation on it (e.g. Meanwell Technical manual).
The jury’s still out on it, but I’ve had a long streak of no issues since adding the ferrite choke. It made sense to me that the problems started after I added the metallic enclosure (and the HDMI screen, which might have added extra load to the system-but I tested it, and Klipper crashed even without the screen).
@@gerGoPrint3D yeah, only got the issue when I added the enclosure also.. well was either that or mainline and the logs don't indicate a software problem.😀
I had my cover come of mid print because the magnets popped out. I've since just put a rubber band around the cover because I needed a quick fix, and it's been fine. Great suggestions though. The ferrite bead is interesting, and one to keep in mind for sure, I have a few laying around (I harvest electronic parts). I haven't switched over to Klipper yet, kind of hesitant because of issues I've read about from others. I appreciate your videos though, and the way you present information, thank you!
Thanks so much for the encouragement! I'm glad you found the suggestions helpful. The harness is really easy to add, so I’d recommend giving it a try when you can. Just to clarify, did you mean you haven't made any changes to the stock Klipper on the SV08? I’m still using the stock Klipper too-these upgrades can just be written directly into the printer.cfg file. Even I managed it without breaking anything, so that’s saying something!
Hey man, great vid as usual. Have you considered designing a printer, might be a cool addition to the channel. Just a video series idea, there is very little resource on that online
I think that would be way above my abilities. I am just a fellow user figuring out small things and just sharing what I come across. But thanks for all the support :)
On my SV08, I found that flipping the direction of the spool fixed the issue of unspooling too easily. Seemed counterintuitive but it worked well
@@ethansmith7 Cool! Yeah, I wouldn't have thought of that. I will try next time.
Nice vid.
I loved the toilet paper mod :D
I personally fixed it with a couple of winds of electric tape at the end of the spool holder. It does not let the bearings to do their job, and the pipe is slipery enough to let the spool roll when pulled. I think it works purrrfect :D
I started my spools on my SV07 by loading it backwards, so it unloads from the bottom of the spool.
once the winding calms down, I flip it back.
In addition, I affixed the cover to the back of the cooling fan to help gently guide the ribbon cable out of the way of the print.
my last SV07 failed due to the ribbon cable falling apart from too much flexing in one spot
I recently brought an sv08 too, the toolhead cover is really a great idea
Congrats to the new printer! You should definitely secure the extruder cover somehow. This little harness is easy to print
Hey, thanks for the video. I got my SV08 a few weeks ago now and i havnt run into any issues so far. I directly acitaved the full potential of klipper and optimized the Start G-Code and many small stuff. But i also used a 3d printed housing, because its cheaper and i think also better isolated than the original one. Maybe you should make a video, not as deep as your current ones, about the SV08 with a good short summary of the upgrades. Also i think there is way more potential in the SOFTWARE than in hardware upgrades .... just MY opinion :) keep it up! very symphatic guy u are ! :)
Thanx Gergo.... Can you do a vid explaining how to record time lapse with SV08 if possible.
I actually did a whole, very detailed video on the subject → ruclips.net/video/86CFV_CbrvQ/видео.html. Of course, with the SV08, everything is already installed and ready to go. It's as simple as switching the option in Mainsail settings to enable the timelapse and then downloading the finished result. My video even includes tips on how to salvage broken timelapses.
@@gerGoPrint3D Kool Thanx so Much
Super thanks for answer ;) btw you make good job
Love your new chapter markers!
gerGO, Thanks for the SV08 content. I saw in your introduction you had an Error 8 'Klipper has Shutdown' (timestamp 0:55). I am receiving the same Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1' on my SV08 printer during long prints. I have not completed a full long print yet because I keep receiving the Error 8 and Klipper resets and losing the whole print. This is very frustrating and aggravating and I have accrued a lot of wasted filament too. How did you fix it? I contacted Sovol and I adjusted all four Z-axis motor amperage in Klipper from .58 to .48 amps and from silent mode to non-silent mode and replaced the Z2 stepper motor and Z2 cable. That did not fix the issue and finally I replaced the SV08 motherboard and I'm still receiving Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1'. What was your solution to fix the Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1' issue?
It only happened once here. I talk about it in the video ruclips.net/video/hCsBGvjoXOA/видео.html. I concluded that it was likely caused by overheating due to the summer heat and the increased work for the Z motors because of the higher Z-hop distance in that particular print. If this keeps happening to you, make sure that the back-right corner of the printer is not pushed into a corner of the desk or walls where air ventilation is limited. In the worst case, you can add a fan (you might be able to share the header with the newly updated load-activated case fan) to help keep it cool.
Cool! In the next video you can address the worst and most difficult solution, the heated bed with the taco or U shape after heating.
tbh I don't have any problem with the bed. the key is to preheat, so it takes up its shape before scanning. Then abl takes care of it. I have
Hi,
I just klipperized my sv06 with sovol's kit. I saw your video. in that video you said something about sovol needing to include one of those ferrite cores . I wanted to mention they added one to the usb cable, and thanks for all the info!
Nice! See, they listen! (I also told them privately aftter testing their screen)
GerGo in your opinion sv08 i good printer for small print farm. After your upgrades will work ok. Usually i print 12 h / 6 day a week abs or asa. now i have 6 printer reborn 2 i i want update all and sorry for my english
For printing with ABS and ASA, you should add a chamber heater. It’s easy to do. Watch my Qidi Tech Q1 Pro comparison video → ruclips.net/video/ynRUsIDnBwA/видео.html If a smaller print area is okay for you, it could be a good option, but I’m not very happy with its extruder. The SV08 has a good motion system, extruder, big print area, and is easy to upgrade because it’s open source. But for temperature-sensitive materials, it takes a long time to heat the large print area using only the bed. Adding a chamber heater will make it a great machine, even for a print farm.
I love how you put so much thought on the spoolholder, yet mine is just a big clamp, clamped on the kallax shelf next to the printer lol
I usually overengineer things, but this time, I think I managed to keep it in the realm of sanity :)
Another note for folks with the stock MCU fan; cut the punched "grill" out. Those stamped holes are shockingly bad for restricting airflow; leave it open or find a low-profile, high-flow grill to print (I hot-glued thing:4288719 to the bottom of the rivnuts, but you do you).
FWIW, the zip-tie method really isn't a big deal. I've had to remove the tie once since installing it to swap in a fresh nozzle on my SV08. Might print the clip anyway. That damned spool holder on the other hand has caused at least 2 or 3 larger prints to fail because it unwinds. Twice it also had a "tangle" when the filament hit the end of the spool where they tuck it for winding. Just happened on a big piece, really annoying.
You also might want to include something about using the built-in _CALIBRATION_ZOFFSET macro instead of the QGL - Said macro homes, does the QGL, cleans the nozzle, probes the plate to find "zero", then calibrates the probe pressure and checks the probe distance from the nozzle before homing again. Only adds about a minute to a print and gives me nice clean first layers.
You thought about moving to mainline Klipper and/or installing an upgraded probe or hotend? I got an Eddy and the board flasher, looking forward to that high speed 100x100 bed mesh. Been putting it off because I got 3 new printers and I had to do maintenance on 3 others, plus printing tasks.
Hey Clint! Thanks for the kind permission to use your spectacular timelapses!! I aim to keep my printer as close to stock as possible to be able to help regular users. My self-tasked mission is to bring out the most from the stock SV08 (my T300 is another story... ruclips.net/video/Ni-Gmygg1g8/видео.html). Anyway, I could be lucky, but my bed is not so bad and the QGL + regular ABL mesh provides me with a pretty even first layer, sufficient for basis for multi-day prints. I think the key is to let it heat soak 10 minutes before starting to scan, and make sure to provoke that crack sound before starting the pre-print calibrations, that's when the bed actually takes up its expanded shape. Yes, 1 extra minute with your extended macro vs about 10 minutes with my heat soaking, but the result is similar, and this is something I can actually recommend to new owners of the printer, as opposed to switching software and replacing some components. Hence these "tiny" upgrades vs complete toolhead swaps... Maybe in a few months I get itchy and start moving things around in my SV08 as well, but for now, its good enough as it is.
@@gerGoPrint3D No problem, glad it can be put to use. My process starts with a heatsoak as well, I just use the z-offset calibration instead of the basic gantry level. I mention the calibration macro because using it + heat soaking, my bed mesh variance dropped from an average of 0.600-0.650mm to 0.300-0.400mm.
I watched your videos on the printer with eager anticipation while I waited for mine, so I was aware of the shortcomings and tweaks that may be necessary. Big resource for people who are undecided, or who took the dive but aren't getting the results they want.
The SV08 is an impressive beast, mine has over 640 hours of print time since July 20th. Made it to about 580 hours before I had to break down and tune the belts and swap a nozzle. Everything from giant prints to (large) tabletop scale stuff. The Eddy wasn't necessary, I just prefer precision. The SV08 has managed to match both Bambu A1 and Prusa XL quality while moving significantly faster than either one.
At this point I just heat soak the printer while I login to the workstation, load Orca, pick a model and slice it. By the time the slicer is done, I can run the z-offset macro and then hit send. I could probably simplify that by editing the start gcode to include the zoffset instead of the QGL.
Lol the first one i also made. Its on my printables.
Great minds think alike :) I looked it up now, indeed it is a similar idea, mine goes inside on both ends though.
@@gerGoPrint3D That's what she said!
Great video, on my spool holder and hotend cover I used tape.For the mid print error where print just stopped, I realized I had to many files stored on the SV08 from Klipper.Once I deleted some of them it seemed to print fine.I stopped using the spool holder but like your fix for it.Hotend cover with scotch clear tape works for now.TH3D here in the USA had a quieter fan I put below the printer that was the same size as original.This worked for me.Noticed my hotend fan has not been working for at least the last 10 prints,so when its was thrown off printer before using tape to hold it on, it must of broke a wire. I keep forgetting to check it. Still printing perfest without it. Keep up the great videos, I enjoy watching them.
Great tip about deleting unnecessary files-that can definitely help avoid mid-print errors. I’d still recommend adding the case fan block; it’ll make your quieter fan run less often and extend its life. Thanks for the detailed feedback! Your solutions, like using tape and the quieter fan from TH3D, are great tips for the community. The SV08 part cooling has good headroom, so unless you’re working on a tricky print, the main part cooling fan should be sufficient. However, it’s still a good idea to replace it as soon as possible for better performance.
Hola
buen dia
desearia saber si cuentas con los diagramas electricos de la fuente de poder de la sovol 07 plus
el dia de hoy me encontraba trabajando con ella y de la nada empezo a soltar chispas y creo corto circuito
necesito revisarlo a fondo pero quisiera saber si me pudieras compartir ese diagrama tecnico en caso de que lo tengas.
gracias por tus videos, tan informativos y de alto detalle
I am sorry to hear about the accident. Glad to hear you are safe. Unfortunately I don't have any technical information about the power supply. But it's a standard Meanwell, you can replace it for cheap, and you can probably find good documentation on it (e.g. Meanwell Technical manual).
I just replaced the spool holder with one without bearings, no problems.
bearings are useful, just not always. Cardboard spools make less mess etc. With the adjustment screw I can now decide how much friction I want
Hmm, never considered EMI for the MCU problem, it has been annoying me for sure.. Ferrite chokes ordered to see.. cheers Gergo.
The jury’s still out on it, but I’ve had a long streak of no issues since adding the ferrite choke. It made sense to me that the problems started after I added the metallic enclosure (and the HDMI screen, which might have added extra load to the system-but I tested it, and Klipper crashed even without the screen).
@@gerGoPrint3D yeah, only got the issue when I added the enclosure also.. well was either that or mainline and the logs don't indicate a software problem.😀
@@getcass The plot thickens. I am also in discussion with the Sovol team about this
I had my cover come of mid print because the magnets popped out. I've since just put a rubber band around the cover because I needed a quick fix, and it's been fine. Great suggestions though. The ferrite bead is interesting, and one to keep in mind for sure, I have a few laying around (I harvest electronic parts). I haven't switched over to Klipper yet, kind of hesitant because of issues I've read about from others. I appreciate your videos though, and the way you present information, thank you!
Thanks so much for the encouragement! I'm glad you found the suggestions helpful. The harness is really easy to add, so I’d recommend giving it a try when you can. Just to clarify, did you mean you haven't made any changes to the stock Klipper on the SV08? I’m still using the stock Klipper too-these upgrades can just be written directly into the printer.cfg file. Even I managed it without breaking anything, so that’s saying something!