I’m looking at a SV08 as I need a larger bed than my 2 year old Bambu. I’ve checked out a review or two, and the RUclips algorithm put this video on my opening page. Subscribed, liked and hit the bell, hope it helps. Good content, and good presentation, thank you.
That's very kind of you, thank you! :) I've made several videos about this great printer, so feel free to check out my channel. And welcome to the community if you decide to go with the SV08!
I just got my sv08 and here I am enjoying your videos. Before I get it set up. One thing that comes to mind for the heat soak, I wonder if instead going to 60 deg and letting it soak for say 5min, if it would be a quicker soak to go to 70° and then readjust down to 60 for ???2min???
Congrats to your new printer! Some actually heat soak at higher temps, but in my opinion it's better to heat soak a the target temp. The idea is that the bed warps to different shapes at different temps. We want to give time to the bed to warp to its "final" shape at the given temperature between ABL scanning and the actual print.
Your Videos are EXTREMELY helpful for SV08 users, Would it be possible to make a SV08 Maintenance video so users will be able to maintain their working printer?
Just realising you removed the printed enclosure riser on your SV08, any reason? I was also looking at your cult Macros, wouldn't there be a way to simply add a "sleep" of x minutes on the print_start macro so that it does the soaking automatically when launching a new print (I'm not familiar with Klipper macros)?
I haven't removed the riser, I sometimes just use a bit older footage for b-roll. I keep the riser on the device, it's serving well. Yes, I am experimenting automatically doing varying amount of pre-heating before the print but I don't like the implementation some recommend to include it in print jobs (via Orca printer profile variants), because that ties the preheat to the job, limiting felxibility when reprinting jobs from the memory of the device. I am thinking about some kind of global variable storing the length of preheating time that we could adjust before starting print jobs. Or making it even more automatic that would decide the duration based on print size / surface area / temperature of the bed at the start of print etc.
@@gerGoPrint3D thank you for the clarification! Can't wait to hear more from your tests. With prints taking the whole bed, there's a visible difference in first layer height (one side squished while the other slightly too high). Gonna get your tweaks from Cult ;) Cheers from France 👋
gerGo, love your videos and follow them closely. In this video you show a way to retain the tool head cover so that it can't come lose during a print. I love your simple idea. I had already made two clips that are now part of my cover to do the same thing and they work perfectly but your way is simpler so why did you wait so long? 😄 I would show you a picture but do not know how to do so here. Please continue with the video's as you really help us all and I am thankful.
😂 I was curious where your comment was going! Thank you for your kindness. I tend to overcomplicate things too, but with this, I stumbled upon some simple ideas and also got a bit lucky. Originally, I planned to have the pointy side facing the back, but it interfered with the small part fan, so I just flipped it around. Then I realized it was the perfect size-not touching the closed doors of the enclosure. That was pure luck! But as you saw in the video, it takes a few prototypes and some experimentation. I love the SV08, and I promise to keep everyone posted if I come across any other improvements. By the way, you can find my email address in my channel description. You've made me curious about your fix for the extruder cover! 😉
Hey man, great vid as usual. Have you considered designing a printer, might be a cool addition to the channel. Just a video series idea, there is very little resource on that online
I think that would be way above my abilities. I am just a fellow user figuring out small things and just sharing what I come across. But thanks for all the support :)
FWIW, the zip-tie method really isn't a big deal. I've had to remove the tie once since installing it to swap in a fresh nozzle on my SV08. Might print the clip anyway. That damned spool holder on the other hand has caused at least 2 or 3 larger prints to fail because it unwinds. Twice it also had a "tangle" when the filament hit the end of the spool where they tuck it for winding. Just happened on a big piece, really annoying. You also might want to include something about using the built-in _CALIBRATION_ZOFFSET macro instead of the QGL - Said macro homes, does the QGL, cleans the nozzle, probes the plate to find "zero", then calibrates the probe pressure and checks the probe distance from the nozzle before homing again. Only adds about a minute to a print and gives me nice clean first layers. You thought about moving to mainline Klipper and/or installing an upgraded probe or hotend? I got an Eddy and the board flasher, looking forward to that high speed 100x100 bed mesh. Been putting it off because I got 3 new printers and I had to do maintenance on 3 others, plus printing tasks.
Hey Clint! Thanks for the kind permission to use your spectacular timelapses!! I aim to keep my printer as close to stock as possible to be able to help regular users. My self-tasked mission is to bring out the most from the stock SV08 (my T300 is another story... ruclips.net/video/Ni-Gmygg1g8/видео.html). Anyway, I could be lucky, but my bed is not so bad and the QGL + regular ABL mesh provides me with a pretty even first layer, sufficient for basis for multi-day prints. I think the key is to let it heat soak 10 minutes before starting to scan, and make sure to provoke that crack sound before starting the pre-print calibrations, that's when the bed actually takes up its expanded shape. Yes, 1 extra minute with your extended macro vs about 10 minutes with my heat soaking, but the result is similar, and this is something I can actually recommend to new owners of the printer, as opposed to switching software and replacing some components. Hence these "tiny" upgrades vs complete toolhead swaps... Maybe in a few months I get itchy and start moving things around in my SV08 as well, but for now, its good enough as it is.
@@gerGoPrint3D No problem, glad it can be put to use. My process starts with a heatsoak as well, I just use the z-offset calibration instead of the basic gantry level. I mention the calibration macro because using it + heat soaking, my bed mesh variance dropped from an average of 0.600-0.650mm to 0.300-0.400mm. I watched your videos on the printer with eager anticipation while I waited for mine, so I was aware of the shortcomings and tweaks that may be necessary. Big resource for people who are undecided, or who took the dive but aren't getting the results they want. The SV08 is an impressive beast, mine has over 640 hours of print time since July 20th. Made it to about 580 hours before I had to break down and tune the belts and swap a nozzle. Everything from giant prints to (large) tabletop scale stuff. The Eddy wasn't necessary, I just prefer precision. The SV08 has managed to match both Bambu A1 and Prusa XL quality while moving significantly faster than either one. At this point I just heat soak the printer while I login to the workstation, load Orca, pick a model and slice it. By the time the slicer is done, I can run the z-offset macro and then hit send. I could probably simplify that by editing the start gcode to include the zoffset instead of the QGL.
Nice vid. I loved the toilet paper mod :D I personally fixed it with a couple of winds of electric tape at the end of the spool holder. It does not let the bearings to do their job, and the pipe is slipery enough to let the spool roll when pulled. I think it works purrrfect :D
I actually did a whole, very detailed video on the subject → ruclips.net/video/86CFV_CbrvQ/видео.html. Of course, with the SV08, everything is already installed and ready to go. It's as simple as switching the option in Mainsail settings to enable the timelapse and then downloading the finished result. My video even includes tips on how to salvage broken timelapses.
GerGo in your opinion sv08 i good printer for small print farm. After your upgrades will work ok. Usually i print 12 h / 6 day a week abs or asa. now i have 6 printer reborn 2 i i want update all and sorry for my english
For printing with ABS and ASA, you should add a chamber heater. It’s easy to do. Watch my Qidi Tech Q1 Pro comparison video → ruclips.net/video/ynRUsIDnBwA/видео.html If a smaller print area is okay for you, it could be a good option, but I’m not very happy with its extruder. The SV08 has a good motion system, extruder, big print area, and is easy to upgrade because it’s open source. But for temperature-sensitive materials, it takes a long time to heat the large print area using only the bed. Adding a chamber heater will make it a great machine, even for a print farm.
Hola buen dia desearia saber si cuentas con los diagramas electricos de la fuente de poder de la sovol 07 plus el dia de hoy me encontraba trabajando con ella y de la nada empezo a soltar chispas y creo corto circuito necesito revisarlo a fondo pero quisiera saber si me pudieras compartir ese diagrama tecnico en caso de que lo tengas. gracias por tus videos, tan informativos y de alto detalle
I am sorry to hear about the accident. Glad to hear you are safe. Unfortunately I don't have any technical information about the power supply. But it's a standard Meanwell, you can replace it for cheap, and you can probably find good documentation on it (e.g. Meanwell Technical manual).
I started my spools on my SV07 by loading it backwards, so it unloads from the bottom of the spool. once the winding calms down, I flip it back. In addition, I affixed the cover to the back of the cooling fan to help gently guide the ribbon cable out of the way of the print. my last SV07 failed due to the ribbon cable falling apart from too much flexing in one spot
Hey, thanks for the video. I got my SV08 a few weeks ago now and i havnt run into any issues so far. I directly acitaved the full potential of klipper and optimized the Start G-Code and many small stuff. But i also used a 3d printed housing, because its cheaper and i think also better isolated than the original one. Maybe you should make a video, not as deep as your current ones, about the SV08 with a good short summary of the upgrades. Also i think there is way more potential in the SOFTWARE than in hardware upgrades .... just MY opinion :) keep it up! very symphatic guy u are ! :)
5:29 that’s not true. You can remove a zip tie by pushing a flat head screw drive into the clamp of the zip tie and push the end back out But not as convenient as your solution
Another note for folks with the stock MCU fan; cut the punched "grill" out. Those stamped holes are shockingly bad for restricting airflow; leave it open or find a low-profile, high-flow grill to print (I hot-glued thing:4288719 to the bottom of the rivnuts, but you do you).
Important tip!! There is really no reason to put a big grill on it as it is at the bottom, most likely facing your desk's surface. You'll need flex or dremmel to cut through the metal though.
@@gerGoPrint3D Heh - back in my PC building days this was always Step One. The funny part was that I drove to three different shops looking for 40mm wire fan grills before I realized "Hey, I have a 3D printer now..." 😖🙄 Personally, I feel a 15 minute print is cheap insurance against a stray purge line or skirt loop getting under the printer, but that's probably more because a bare fan just feels unfinished to me.
You could try, but printing only takes 3 minutes and costs about 5¢ in filament. Plus, O-rings might be too thick-we only need a 2-layer (0.4mm) thin ring so that loosening the screw still allows it to spin freely. Lastly, finding the exact size O-ring might be difficult, whereas custom-printing gives you the perfect fit. But if Sovol decided to upgrade their design, they will probably use some kind of o-rings and I envision a thumb screw replacement, so we can manually adjust the friction without the need for an Alen key.
Hi, I just klipperized my sv06 with sovol's kit. I saw your video. in that video you said something about sovol needing to include one of those ferrite cores . I wanted to mention they added one to the usb cable, and thanks for all the info!
gerGO, Thanks for the SV08 content. I saw in your introduction you had an Error 8 'Klipper has Shutdown' (timestamp 0:55). I am receiving the same Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1' on my SV08 printer during long prints. I have not completed a full long print yet because I keep receiving the Error 8 and Klipper resets and losing the whole print. This is very frustrating and aggravating and I have accrued a lot of wasted filament too. How did you fix it? I contacted Sovol and I adjusted all four Z-axis motor amperage in Klipper from .58 to .48 amps and from silent mode to non-silent mode and replaced the Z2 stepper motor and Z2 cable. That did not fix the issue and finally I replaced the SV08 motherboard and I'm still receiving Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1'. What was your solution to fix the Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1' issue?
It only happened once here. I talk about it in the video ruclips.net/video/hCsBGvjoXOA/видео.html. I concluded that it was likely caused by overheating due to the summer heat and the increased work for the Z motors because of the higher Z-hop distance in that particular print. If this keeps happening to you, make sure that the back-right corner of the printer is not pushed into a corner of the desk or walls where air ventilation is limited. In the worst case, you can add a fan (you might be able to share the header with the newly updated load-activated case fan) to help keep it cool.
Im having the same "Stepper Z1" error on my sV08 too. So far, Sovol has been helpful and sent me a new z motor and cable, but that didnt help. They're currently sending me a new motherboard to swap out, guessing that its an overloaded driver on the board thats throwing the error. I hope the new board fixes it, cuz i miss being able to do long prints!
@@benpryce That error in my video is from my recent ruclips.net/video/hCsBGvjoXOA/видео.html where it was fixed by adding extra cooling, but it sounds like your issue might be more serious. Hopefully, the new motherboard will solve it!
@@gerGoPrint3D I actually got the idea from you to put a ferrite bead on the USB cable to the HDMI screen, and wouldnt you know....so far the problem seems to have gone away! Ive done about 12 hours of printing with no failures so far. Keep your fingers crossed that works. I have the new motherboard from Sovol in hand, but havent installed it yet.
@benpryce I'm not sure, but the USB cable between the screen and controller board only carries touch information. The stepper_z1 issue is specifically related to the Z motors and drivers. But who knows-there could be all kinds of butterfly effects happening in these machines :)
This is the first time I’m hearing about the ferrite cores for the sovol sv06+ I’ve had one issue with a mcu shutdown during a long print. Just ordered some, I never want that to happen again 😂
Thank you, another excellent video. I will fully prepared once I get my sv08! Keep up the excellent work, much appreciated Oh and wouldn't a simple large reusable rubber band work to hold the extruder cover? One can even purchase 1/4" 3" ones in blue...just a thought but your fix works nice too as it stays out of the way when released
My thinking: why purchase anything when we have a 3d printer :) Also I like the look of a custom printed piece better than either a rubber band or a ziptie. This is not supposed to be a band-aid, this is a permanent enhancement! Congrats to your printer btw. I am exactly like this. Before I get any new device I watch and ready everything I can to prepare. You'd think this diminishes as they start to send you tons of stuff, but even after 3d printer #6 or laser engraver #5 I am still this way. One track mind until I get it and then tune it to the max to bring out the best. I love my SV08!
@gerGoPrint3D Mine doesn't crack on the first layer or print, but always on the first heating of the day. I tried to push the corners after soaking but there was almost no improvement, the problem is in the center, but at least it reduced those warped corners on large wide prints, the problem is that the middle region is inconsistent, especially with supports. In the groups, what I've seen is people printing supports to put under the bed.
The jury’s still out on it, but I’ve had a long streak of no issues since adding the ferrite choke. It made sense to me that the problems started after I added the metallic enclosure (and the HDMI screen, which might have added extra load to the system-but I tested it, and Klipper crashed even without the screen).
@@gerGoPrint3D yeah, only got the issue when I added the enclosure also.. well was either that or mainline and the logs don't indicate a software problem.😀
@@gerGoPrint3D nah dropping a Ferrite bead seems not to fix mine, just got another there with it on while doing a bed mesh, managed to get a 2 QGL, 2 bedmesh and a Benchy before it fell over again. The search continues.
I had my cover come of mid print because the magnets popped out. I've since just put a rubber band around the cover because I needed a quick fix, and it's been fine. Great suggestions though. The ferrite bead is interesting, and one to keep in mind for sure, I have a few laying around (I harvest electronic parts). I haven't switched over to Klipper yet, kind of hesitant because of issues I've read about from others. I appreciate your videos though, and the way you present information, thank you!
Thanks so much for the encouragement! I'm glad you found the suggestions helpful. The harness is really easy to add, so I’d recommend giving it a try when you can. Just to clarify, did you mean you haven't made any changes to the stock Klipper on the SV08? I’m still using the stock Klipper too-these upgrades can just be written directly into the printer.cfg file. Even I managed it without breaking anything, so that’s saying something!
Great video, on my spool holder and hotend cover I used tape.For the mid print error where print just stopped, I realized I had to many files stored on the SV08 from Klipper.Once I deleted some of them it seemed to print fine.I stopped using the spool holder but like your fix for it.Hotend cover with scotch clear tape works for now.TH3D here in the USA had a quieter fan I put below the printer that was the same size as original.This worked for me.Noticed my hotend fan has not been working for at least the last 10 prints,so when its was thrown off printer before using tape to hold it on, it must of broke a wire. I keep forgetting to check it. Still printing perfest without it. Keep up the great videos, I enjoy watching them.
Great tip about deleting unnecessary files-that can definitely help avoid mid-print errors. I’d still recommend adding the case fan block; it’ll make your quieter fan run less often and extend its life. Thanks for the detailed feedback! Your solutions, like using tape and the quieter fan from TH3D, are great tips for the community. The SV08 part cooling has good headroom, so unless you’re working on a tricky print, the main part cooling fan should be sufficient. However, it’s still a good idea to replace it as soon as possible for better performance.
There is a way to make the original printer fan silent when temperature is low. No hardware mod required. Here is the code with the temperature-tweak to make the fan spin slow when temp. is low. and avoid fan spinning useless unter 25% speed. Starts spinning at 25% and spins faster CPU temperature dependend. Add this to the printer.cfg in Klipper and hit SAVE&RESTART (use at own risk): [temperature_fan CPUfan] pin: PA1 kick_start_time: 0.5 max_power: 1.0 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 90 hardware_pwm: true target_temp: 57 sensor_type: temperature_host max_speed: 1.0 min_speed: 0.23 off_below: 0.25 control: pid pid_Kp: 2 pid_Ki: .5 pid_Kd: 0.25 pid_deriv_time: 5.0
@@gerGoPrint3D I know, but try this in addition: min_speed: 0.23 off_below: 0.25 Then the fan will stop under 25% fan speed, avoiding spinning useless at very low rpm and producing pwm noises at low rpm. 😉
I’m looking at a SV08 as I need a larger bed than my 2 year old Bambu. I’ve checked out a review or two, and the RUclips algorithm put this video on my opening page. Subscribed, liked and hit the bell, hope it helps. Good content, and good presentation, thank you.
That's very kind of you, thank you! :) I've made several videos about this great printer, so feel free to check out my channel. And welcome to the community if you decide to go with the SV08!
Just set mine up. Need to quiet it a bit. Wowza
Congrats! Tip #4 should help you
@gerGoPrint3D any thoughts on how much noise reduction with enclosure being installed?
@@raymondholland8572 I made measurements in this video: ruclips.net/video/VqVO9W1lIT0/видео.html
I just got my sv08 and here I am enjoying your videos. Before I get it set up. One thing that comes to mind for the heat soak, I wonder if instead going to 60 deg and letting it soak for say 5min, if it would be a quicker soak to go to 70° and then readjust down to 60 for ???2min???
Congrats to your new printer! Some actually heat soak at higher temps, but in my opinion it's better to heat soak a the target temp. The idea is that the bed warps to different shapes at different temps. We want to give time to the bed to warp to its "final" shape at the given temperature between ABL scanning and the actual print.
Thanks
Wow thank you!
Again, a great video, love the time line at the bottom! 😎
Thank you for highlighting that :)
Your Videos are EXTREMELY helpful for SV08 users, Would it be possible to make a SV08 Maintenance video so users will be able to maintain their working printer?
Thanks for the tip! I haven't done much maintenance yet, this printer just works. But when I get to it I will surely make a video.
Just realising you removed the printed enclosure riser on your SV08, any reason? I was also looking at your cult Macros, wouldn't there be a way to simply add a "sleep" of x minutes on the print_start macro so that it does the soaking automatically when launching a new print (I'm not familiar with Klipper macros)?
I haven't removed the riser, I sometimes just use a bit older footage for b-roll. I keep the riser on the device, it's serving well. Yes, I am experimenting automatically doing varying amount of pre-heating before the print but I don't like the implementation some recommend to include it in print jobs (via Orca printer profile variants), because that ties the preheat to the job, limiting felxibility when reprinting jobs from the memory of the device. I am thinking about some kind of global variable storing the length of preheating time that we could adjust before starting print jobs. Or making it even more automatic that would decide the duration based on print size / surface area / temperature of the bed at the start of print etc.
@@gerGoPrint3D thank you for the clarification! Can't wait to hear more from your tests. With prints taking the whole bed, there's a visible difference in first layer height (one side squished while the other slightly too high). Gonna get your tweaks from Cult ;)
Cheers from France 👋
I recently brought an sv08 too, the toolhead cover is really a great idea
Congrats to the new printer! You should definitely secure the extruder cover somehow. This little harness is easy to print
gerGo, love your videos and follow them closely. In this video you show a way to retain the tool head cover so that it can't come lose during a print. I love your simple idea. I had already made two clips that are now part of my cover to do the same thing and they work perfectly but your way is simpler so why did you wait so long? 😄 I would show you a picture but do not know how to do so here. Please continue with the video's as you really help us all and I am thankful.
😂 I was curious where your comment was going! Thank you for your kindness. I tend to overcomplicate things too, but with this, I stumbled upon some simple ideas and also got a bit lucky. Originally, I planned to have the pointy side facing the back, but it interfered with the small part fan, so I just flipped it around. Then I realized it was the perfect size-not touching the closed doors of the enclosure. That was pure luck! But as you saw in the video, it takes a few prototypes and some experimentation. I love the SV08, and I promise to keep everyone posted if I come across any other improvements. By the way, you can find my email address in my channel description. You've made me curious about your fix for the extruder cover! 😉
Hey man, great vid as usual. Have you considered designing a printer, might be a cool addition to the channel. Just a video series idea, there is very little resource on that online
I think that would be way above my abilities. I am just a fellow user figuring out small things and just sharing what I come across. But thanks for all the support :)
On my SV08, I found that flipping the direction of the spool fixed the issue of unspooling too easily. Seemed counterintuitive but it worked well
@@ethansmith7 Cool! Yeah, I wouldn't have thought of that. I will try next time.
FWIW, the zip-tie method really isn't a big deal. I've had to remove the tie once since installing it to swap in a fresh nozzle on my SV08. Might print the clip anyway. That damned spool holder on the other hand has caused at least 2 or 3 larger prints to fail because it unwinds. Twice it also had a "tangle" when the filament hit the end of the spool where they tuck it for winding. Just happened on a big piece, really annoying.
You also might want to include something about using the built-in _CALIBRATION_ZOFFSET macro instead of the QGL - Said macro homes, does the QGL, cleans the nozzle, probes the plate to find "zero", then calibrates the probe pressure and checks the probe distance from the nozzle before homing again. Only adds about a minute to a print and gives me nice clean first layers.
You thought about moving to mainline Klipper and/or installing an upgraded probe or hotend? I got an Eddy and the board flasher, looking forward to that high speed 100x100 bed mesh. Been putting it off because I got 3 new printers and I had to do maintenance on 3 others, plus printing tasks.
Hey Clint! Thanks for the kind permission to use your spectacular timelapses!! I aim to keep my printer as close to stock as possible to be able to help regular users. My self-tasked mission is to bring out the most from the stock SV08 (my T300 is another story... ruclips.net/video/Ni-Gmygg1g8/видео.html). Anyway, I could be lucky, but my bed is not so bad and the QGL + regular ABL mesh provides me with a pretty even first layer, sufficient for basis for multi-day prints. I think the key is to let it heat soak 10 minutes before starting to scan, and make sure to provoke that crack sound before starting the pre-print calibrations, that's when the bed actually takes up its expanded shape. Yes, 1 extra minute with your extended macro vs about 10 minutes with my heat soaking, but the result is similar, and this is something I can actually recommend to new owners of the printer, as opposed to switching software and replacing some components. Hence these "tiny" upgrades vs complete toolhead swaps... Maybe in a few months I get itchy and start moving things around in my SV08 as well, but for now, its good enough as it is.
@@gerGoPrint3D No problem, glad it can be put to use. My process starts with a heatsoak as well, I just use the z-offset calibration instead of the basic gantry level. I mention the calibration macro because using it + heat soaking, my bed mesh variance dropped from an average of 0.600-0.650mm to 0.300-0.400mm.
I watched your videos on the printer with eager anticipation while I waited for mine, so I was aware of the shortcomings and tweaks that may be necessary. Big resource for people who are undecided, or who took the dive but aren't getting the results they want.
The SV08 is an impressive beast, mine has over 640 hours of print time since July 20th. Made it to about 580 hours before I had to break down and tune the belts and swap a nozzle. Everything from giant prints to (large) tabletop scale stuff. The Eddy wasn't necessary, I just prefer precision. The SV08 has managed to match both Bambu A1 and Prusa XL quality while moving significantly faster than either one.
At this point I just heat soak the printer while I login to the workstation, load Orca, pick a model and slice it. By the time the slicer is done, I can run the z-offset macro and then hit send. I could probably simplify that by editing the start gcode to include the zoffset instead of the QGL.
Nice vid.
I loved the toilet paper mod :D
I personally fixed it with a couple of winds of electric tape at the end of the spool holder. It does not let the bearings to do their job, and the pipe is slipery enough to let the spool roll when pulled. I think it works purrrfect :D
Thanx Gergo.... Can you do a vid explaining how to record time lapse with SV08 if possible.
I actually did a whole, very detailed video on the subject → ruclips.net/video/86CFV_CbrvQ/видео.html. Of course, with the SV08, everything is already installed and ready to go. It's as simple as switching the option in Mainsail settings to enable the timelapse and then downloading the finished result. My video even includes tips on how to salvage broken timelapses.
@@gerGoPrint3D Kool Thanx so Much
GerGo in your opinion sv08 i good printer for small print farm. After your upgrades will work ok. Usually i print 12 h / 6 day a week abs or asa. now i have 6 printer reborn 2 i i want update all and sorry for my english
For printing with ABS and ASA, you should add a chamber heater. It’s easy to do. Watch my Qidi Tech Q1 Pro comparison video → ruclips.net/video/ynRUsIDnBwA/видео.html If a smaller print area is okay for you, it could be a good option, but I’m not very happy with its extruder. The SV08 has a good motion system, extruder, big print area, and is easy to upgrade because it’s open source. But for temperature-sensitive materials, it takes a long time to heat the large print area using only the bed. Adding a chamber heater will make it a great machine, even for a print farm.
Hola
buen dia
desearia saber si cuentas con los diagramas electricos de la fuente de poder de la sovol 07 plus
el dia de hoy me encontraba trabajando con ella y de la nada empezo a soltar chispas y creo corto circuito
necesito revisarlo a fondo pero quisiera saber si me pudieras compartir ese diagrama tecnico en caso de que lo tengas.
gracias por tus videos, tan informativos y de alto detalle
I am sorry to hear about the accident. Glad to hear you are safe. Unfortunately I don't have any technical information about the power supply. But it's a standard Meanwell, you can replace it for cheap, and you can probably find good documentation on it (e.g. Meanwell Technical manual).
I started my spools on my SV07 by loading it backwards, so it unloads from the bottom of the spool.
once the winding calms down, I flip it back.
In addition, I affixed the cover to the back of the cooling fan to help gently guide the ribbon cable out of the way of the print.
my last SV07 failed due to the ribbon cable falling apart from too much flexing in one spot
You are EXTREMELY helpful. Thank you so much. I'm going to buy you a pot of coffee using your link. Don't stop working on the SV08.
Thank you for your kindness :) I love my SV08 and I keep sharing my experience with it!
Hey, thanks for the video. I got my SV08 a few weeks ago now and i havnt run into any issues so far. I directly acitaved the full potential of klipper and optimized the Start G-Code and many small stuff. But i also used a 3d printed housing, because its cheaper and i think also better isolated than the original one. Maybe you should make a video, not as deep as your current ones, about the SV08 with a good short summary of the upgrades. Also i think there is way more potential in the SOFTWARE than in hardware upgrades .... just MY opinion :) keep it up! very symphatic guy u are ! :)
5:29 that’s not true. You can remove a zip tie by pushing a flat head screw drive into the clamp of the zip tie and push the end back out
But not as convenient as your solution
Good tip! Thank you.
Another note for folks with the stock MCU fan; cut the punched "grill" out. Those stamped holes are shockingly bad for restricting airflow; leave it open or find a low-profile, high-flow grill to print (I hot-glued thing:4288719 to the bottom of the rivnuts, but you do you).
Important tip!! There is really no reason to put a big grill on it as it is at the bottom, most likely facing your desk's surface. You'll need flex or dremmel to cut through the metal though.
@@gerGoPrint3D Heh - back in my PC building days this was always Step One. The funny part was that I drove to three different shops looking for 40mm wire fan grills before I realized "Hey, I have a 3D printer now..." 😖🙄
Personally, I feel a 15 minute print is cheap insurance against a stray purge line or skirt loop getting under the printer, but that's probably more because a bare fan just feels unfinished to me.
The printed TPU rings are a GREAT idea. But...would it not be easier to simply purchase some fitting O-Rings?
You could try, but printing only takes 3 minutes and costs about 5¢ in filament. Plus, O-rings might be too thick-we only need a 2-layer (0.4mm) thin ring so that loosening the screw still allows it to spin freely. Lastly, finding the exact size O-ring might be difficult, whereas custom-printing gives you the perfect fit.
But if Sovol decided to upgrade their design, they will probably use some kind of o-rings and I envision a thumb screw replacement, so we can manually adjust the friction without the need for an Alen key.
Hi,
I just klipperized my sv06 with sovol's kit. I saw your video. in that video you said something about sovol needing to include one of those ferrite cores . I wanted to mention they added one to the usb cable, and thanks for all the info!
Nice! See, they listen! (I also told them privately aftter testing their screen)
I love how you put so much thought on the spoolholder, yet mine is just a big clamp, clamped on the kallax shelf next to the printer lol
I usually overengineer things, but this time, I think I managed to keep it in the realm of sanity :)
gerGO, Thanks for the SV08 content. I saw in your introduction you had an Error 8 'Klipper has Shutdown' (timestamp 0:55). I am receiving the same Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1' on my SV08 printer during long prints. I have not completed a full long print yet because I keep receiving the Error 8 and Klipper resets and losing the whole print. This is very frustrating and aggravating and I have accrued a lot of wasted filament too. How did you fix it? I contacted Sovol and I adjusted all four Z-axis motor amperage in Klipper from .58 to .48 amps and from silent mode to non-silent mode and replaced the Z2 stepper motor and Z2 cable. That did not fix the issue and finally I replaced the SV08 motherboard and I'm still receiving Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1'. What was your solution to fix the Error 8 TMC 'stepper_Z1' issue?
It only happened once here. I talk about it in the video ruclips.net/video/hCsBGvjoXOA/видео.html. I concluded that it was likely caused by overheating due to the summer heat and the increased work for the Z motors because of the higher Z-hop distance in that particular print. If this keeps happening to you, make sure that the back-right corner of the printer is not pushed into a corner of the desk or walls where air ventilation is limited. In the worst case, you can add a fan (you might be able to share the header with the newly updated load-activated case fan) to help keep it cool.
Im having the same "Stepper Z1" error on my sV08 too. So far, Sovol has been helpful and sent me a new z motor and cable, but that didnt help. They're currently sending me a new motherboard to swap out, guessing that its an overloaded driver on the board thats throwing the error. I hope the new board fixes it, cuz i miss being able to do long prints!
@@benpryce That error in my video is from my recent ruclips.net/video/hCsBGvjoXOA/видео.html where it was fixed by adding extra cooling, but it sounds like your issue might be more serious. Hopefully, the new motherboard will solve it!
@@gerGoPrint3D I actually got the idea from you to put a ferrite bead on the USB cable to the HDMI screen, and wouldnt you know....so far the problem seems to have gone away! Ive done about 12 hours of printing with no failures so far. Keep your fingers crossed that works.
I have the new motherboard from Sovol in hand, but havent installed it yet.
@benpryce I'm not sure, but the USB cable between the screen and controller board only carries touch information. The stepper_z1 issue is specifically related to the Z motors and drivers. But who knows-there could be all kinds of butterfly effects happening in these machines :)
This is the first time I’m hearing about the ferrite cores for the sovol sv06+
I’ve had one issue with a mcu shutdown during a long print. Just ordered some, I never want that to happen again 😂
Thank you, another excellent video. I will fully prepared once I get my sv08! Keep up the excellent work, much appreciated
Oh and wouldn't a simple large reusable rubber band work to hold the extruder cover? One can even purchase 1/4" 3" ones in blue...just a thought but your fix works nice too as it stays out of the way when released
My thinking: why purchase anything when we have a 3d printer :) Also I like the look of a custom printed piece better than either a rubber band or a ziptie. This is not supposed to be a band-aid, this is a permanent enhancement! Congrats to your printer btw. I am exactly like this. Before I get any new device I watch and ready everything I can to prepare. You'd think this diminishes as they start to send you tons of stuff, but even after 3d printer #6 or laser engraver #5 I am still this way. One track mind until I get it and then tune it to the max to bring out the best. I love my SV08!
Cool! In the next video you can address the worst and most difficult solution, the heated bed with the taco or U shape after heating.
tbh I don't have any problem with the bed. the key is to preheat, so it takes up its shape before scanning. Then abl takes care of it. I have
@gerGoPrint3D Mine doesn't crack on the first layer or print, but always on the first heating of the day. I tried to push the corners after soaking but there was almost no improvement, the problem is in the center, but at least it reduced those warped corners on large wide prints, the problem is that the middle region is inconsistent, especially with supports. In the groups, what I've seen is people printing supports to put under the bed.
Lol the first one i also made. Its on my printables.
Great minds think alike :) I looked it up now, indeed it is a similar idea, mine goes inside on both ends though.
@@gerGoPrint3D That's what she said!
@@gerGoPrint3D yup
Love your new chapter markers!
Hmm, never considered EMI for the MCU problem, it has been annoying me for sure.. Ferrite chokes ordered to see.. cheers Gergo.
The jury’s still out on it, but I’ve had a long streak of no issues since adding the ferrite choke. It made sense to me that the problems started after I added the metallic enclosure (and the HDMI screen, which might have added extra load to the system-but I tested it, and Klipper crashed even without the screen).
@@gerGoPrint3D yeah, only got the issue when I added the enclosure also.. well was either that or mainline and the logs don't indicate a software problem.😀
@@getcass The plot thickens. I am also in discussion with the Sovol team about this
@@gerGoPrint3D nah dropping a Ferrite bead seems not to fix mine, just got another there with it on while doing a bed mesh, managed to get a 2 QGL, 2 bedmesh and a Benchy before it fell over again. The search continues.
I had my cover come of mid print because the magnets popped out. I've since just put a rubber band around the cover because I needed a quick fix, and it's been fine. Great suggestions though. The ferrite bead is interesting, and one to keep in mind for sure, I have a few laying around (I harvest electronic parts). I haven't switched over to Klipper yet, kind of hesitant because of issues I've read about from others. I appreciate your videos though, and the way you present information, thank you!
Thanks so much for the encouragement! I'm glad you found the suggestions helpful. The harness is really easy to add, so I’d recommend giving it a try when you can. Just to clarify, did you mean you haven't made any changes to the stock Klipper on the SV08? I’m still using the stock Klipper too-these upgrades can just be written directly into the printer.cfg file. Even I managed it without breaking anything, so that’s saying something!
Great video, on my spool holder and hotend cover I used tape.For the mid print error where print just stopped, I realized I had to many files stored on the SV08 from Klipper.Once I deleted some of them it seemed to print fine.I stopped using the spool holder but like your fix for it.Hotend cover with scotch clear tape works for now.TH3D here in the USA had a quieter fan I put below the printer that was the same size as original.This worked for me.Noticed my hotend fan has not been working for at least the last 10 prints,so when its was thrown off printer before using tape to hold it on, it must of broke a wire. I keep forgetting to check it. Still printing perfest without it. Keep up the great videos, I enjoy watching them.
Great tip about deleting unnecessary files-that can definitely help avoid mid-print errors. I’d still recommend adding the case fan block; it’ll make your quieter fan run less often and extend its life. Thanks for the detailed feedback! Your solutions, like using tape and the quieter fan from TH3D, are great tips for the community. The SV08 part cooling has good headroom, so unless you’re working on a tricky print, the main part cooling fan should be sufficient. However, it’s still a good idea to replace it as soon as possible for better performance.
There is a way to make the original printer fan silent when temperature is low. No hardware mod required.
Here is the code with the temperature-tweak to make the fan spin slow when temp. is low. and avoid fan spinning useless unter 25% speed. Starts spinning at 25% and spins faster CPU temperature dependend.
Add this to the printer.cfg in Klipper and hit SAVE&RESTART (use at own risk):
[temperature_fan CPUfan]
pin: PA1
kick_start_time: 0.5
max_power: 1.0
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 90
hardware_pwm: true
target_temp: 57
sensor_type: temperature_host
max_speed: 1.0
min_speed: 0.23
off_below: 0.25
control: pid
pid_Kp: 2
pid_Ki: .5
pid_Kd: 0.25
pid_deriv_time: 5.0
I literally show this in the video at 9:46
@@gerGoPrint3D I know,
but try this in addition:
min_speed: 0.23
off_below: 0.25
Then the fan will stop under 25% fan speed, avoiding spinning useless at very low rpm and producing pwm noises at low rpm. 😉
@@kampfwuffi Oh, sorry, I did not compare your settings :) I will try. That's actually a very good tip!! Thank you
Super thanks for answer ;) btw you make good job
I just replaced the spool holder with one without bearings, no problems.
bearings are useful, just not always. Cardboard spools make less mess etc. With the adjustment screw I can now decide how much friction I want