Unlock Flawless Big Prints: Orca Slicer Filament Calibration Guide (Sovol SV08, engineering PLA)
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- 🔗 My SV08 macro collection (Heat soak + Current Z) → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
💙 Short link to SV08 landing page: bit.ly/sv08 ($579 early bird!)
💙 Official SV08 product page → www.sovol3d.com/products/sovo... (affiliate link)
💙 SV08 Recommended upgrades:
► Enclosure → sovol3d.com/products/sv08-tra...
► Touchscreen → sovol3d.com/products/sv08-upg...
► 0.2mm-0.8mm nozzle kit → sovol3d.com/products/sv08-met...
💜 My STL models:
► E-step calibration ruler + Cali-Corner for XYZ tuning → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
► SV08 fan mod → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
► Klipper Screen fan mod → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
► SV07+ dust cover system → cults3d.com/en/creations/sovo...
► SV06+ dust cover → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
► SV06/+ Z-markers → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
► T300 Z-tilt knob → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
► T300 silent fan mod → cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
💰 More affiliate links (helps me with no additional cost to you!)
► Comgrow T300 printer → sovol3d.com/products/comgrow-...
► Sovol SV07 Plus printer → sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv...
► Sovol SV06 Plus printer → sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv...
► Klipper Screen for SV06 Plus → sovol3d.com/products/sovol-kl...
► Sovol filament → sovol3d.com/products/rainbow-...
► FixDry filament dryer → fixdryofficial.com/products/f...
🛒 Amazon links:
► Comgrow T300 → amzn.to/3x2vG1d
► SV07 Plus → amzn.to/3yK2RXY
► SV07 → amzn.to/3VrlGYI
► SV06 Plus → amzn.to/4ebxHsT
► SV06 → amzn.to/4e4wyTN
► SV06/Plus Klipper screen → amzn.to/4aMTJiw
► FixDry Double NT1 Filament dryer → amzn.to/3x4PBg1
► Wainlux K10 mini laser engraver → amzn.to/45bC9Ur
⚠ Disclaimer: I followed the official Orca Slicer documentation and best practices to the best of my knowledge and successfully calibrated the filament in the vide. However, I cannot assume responsibility for any damage that may occur to your printer or other belongings if you follow my guide. Always consult the online documentation and ensure you understand the purpose and process of each step before proceeding.
🎬 Chapters:
00:00 What we are printing
02:01 Filament calibration:
02:42 Temperature
03:30 Flow rate
05:22 Linear Advance
06:51 Retraction
08:18 Max Vol Speed
10:16 Slicer settings
13:10 Print Attempt 1
15:11 Problems...
16:59 Fixes
18:50 Success 
Хобби
wow...some serious work here with alll the various parameters needing attention...great stuff sharing your process!!
Don't worry about the sides not keeping all the heat in for ABS as long as there is something to keep a draft of air from blowing across the print . Looks like a great deal for the price.Keep the great videos coming.
Thanks! I am very new to ABS printing, but I am loving the results.
Excellent tuning video. I'll be referring to all your SV08 videos once I finally get mine delivered. Very valuable resource.
Hang in there! The SV08 is worth the wait :)
Same here, thanks for all the indications!
same here :)
Very well done! This is how a "project" video should be. Its always important, to see the problems you ran into! The "warping issue" you got, was the first thing i thought about, when i saw the model in ur hands. Well done! Keep this up!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the valuable feedback
Thank you. This type of video is what is convincing me to buy an SV08
Hi Gergo, if you want a thick bottom, instead of a 100% infill modifier you can just increase the thickness of the bottom.
Great channel by the way. Nice to see more and more channels from Hungary that actually can be enjoyed wordwide.
Yes, you would think, but that would have affected the underside of the curved, supported parts as well. As shown in the later parts of the video I eventually reduced the infill density to 25% on this bottom area, which could only be done using modifiers. Besides, I think it has value showing these lesser known features of the slicer for their education value. You are right though, things should not be overcomplicated. But hopefully this was not the case here. Thanks for the feedback!
With filament holder had the same issue and did the same i did before with sv07+. Removing bearings from inside of holder. 2 minutes job, don't have to worry of filament tangling around somewhere and have 2 spare bearings to use it somewhere else ;)
And we can put the bearings back when printing TPU, right?
@@gerGoPrint3D Of course. One allen key, 2 bolts, one from each side, put it back and connect everything in reverse order and you have it like stock. I mostly print with pla, at least on sovol machines. With sv08 im at the end of 3rd bigger print that each took at least 24h and probably around 3.5kg material using holder without bearings. Nothing bad happend. And on sv07+ have... I think 650h and also it was perfect when removed bearings from inside
I use a normal spool holder without bearing for my SV08. I believe the holder is from my SV04 :)
That's a good solution for regular filaments like PLA on plastic spools. I am looking for some kind of variable friction upgrade, where we could somehow dial in or adjust how loose the filament is held depending on the type of filament, spool material and amount of filament on the spool. Cardboard spools for example tend to crumble and leave dust on the non-spinning filament holder of my T300. It is not ideal either. A combination of the two would be nice.
Great content, thanks for taking the time to show the process. I'm waiting for my SV08 to be delivered, but I think it's at least a few weeks or more away from shipping.
That's exactly what I needed, I need to do a big print soon. Thank you
Thank you for the feedback! I am happy this came in time! Let us know how it goes!
@@gerGoPrint3Dgoing great , i could hear some clicking so I raised the offset by 0.01mm. It's one of the most challenging prints I've done.
Right now its going great, about 6h left
another banger
very well done. a big thank you from germany.👍
Thank You Gergo.
I've got a Sovol SV06 and it seems like the bed heater for that printer doesn't heat the edge of the print bed as well as it does the middle, printing maximum sized objects has been a challenge as result.
Once the carbon fiber lamination is ready, can you share an update that shows the final product?
Thanks again
Yes, we'll make a follow up video (or shorts). They promised to film the lamination process, it could even be a full part 2 ;) Thanks for the interest!
Excellent. Thank you so much . I am new and your video is super helpful to me. Thank you so very much
Great video, thank you for the instruction and information. Very very useful. Still waiting for my AV08 to show up
Thanks!
Wow, thank you so much!
What you need is a heated build chamber :-)
I am getting the enclosure, will post about it as soon as I receive it. Still, I am not sure about its use with PLA, as it also needs ventillation for overhangs to print well.
@@gerGoPrint3D Indeed with PLA the enclosure won't do much good I guess, except protecting the print from draughts. (still I would keep the doors open)
I never print with PLA so I did not pay attention to the filament you used, sorry my bad.. At least now I've learned that in extreme cases even PLA likes to warp 😆
Thank you so much for providing such a valuable resource! I'll be referring back to this video frequently whenever I need to tune my printer. Thanks again!
You are very welcome! And thank YOU for joining the premier!
10:43 they probably requested strength for usage in carbon-fiber vacuforming with this as a 'buck' piece, or similar.
exactly! in fact I've now received some footage of the lamination process and the roll-out of the little race car, I will include these as a bit of follow up in my next video...
Have I been too gentle on my build plate? It horrifies me to warp it and scrape it.
It can take some abuse :) I am just careful not to scrape it with metal. I use an old credit card to remove interrupted first layers. PETG tends to stick too well, but there is a perfect temperature (not too hot, not completely cold) when you can still remove it. Bigger parts will remove more easily.
Thank you for creating content like this! Especially involving the SV08. I am trying to improve everything I can ✌️
You are very welcome! We are learning from each other
Mate you doing a great job. Thanks for all the info you post.
Much appreciated!
hi Gergo, wanted to add Smart Filament Sensor V2.0 and connect filament motion sensor to pin PE13, but it seems that it is used as
[tmc2209 stepper_y]
diag_pin: PE13
what to do ? i am quite new to Klipper :(
Aren't there other free pins? Why using specifically pin13? You should be able to configure any free pin in printer.cfg
@@gerGoPrint3D nope, PE13 and PE15 are only one physically free on motherboard as Y amd X axis (limited) but used in config for sensor less homing :(
When I print with my SV 08 the nozzle drags on the print, mostly, when it’s printing the infill😮
I found the infill pattern "3D Honeycomb" causes the least amount of drag, and follow the settings in the video: tune your flow rate, increase z-hop. As shown in the video overextrusion can surely cause drag!
@@gerGoPrint3D I will try that thank you great video
i’ve also noticed on some of my prints on the outer wall they’ll be a few layer inconsistencies like it shifted a little bit outward
@@rbgenski It is the bed moving. Heat soaking longer before bigger prints fixes the issue. I think a hardware fix would be to upgrade the bed eventually.
Hello from Canada 🇨🇦
I hope the premier is at a good time for you :)
fun fact.. when I watch your video at 1.25x speed it sound much better :D
It's so great to have these speed controls in YT. I often listen to things at 1.25 or even 1.5. And other times I need to slow down some speakers. Thank you for bringing this to the attention of other viewers!
Are you planing to print something other than pla on the sovol?
@@Chaosek I've already printed much PETG, it works very well. I also tested TPE, but for that larger nozzle is better, which I am still waiting for. I am getting enclosure when it becomes available, I will test printing ABS / ASA then. I am waiting for these updates before posting promised filament presets video.
@@gerGoPrint3D When I printed ASA with the default macro.cfg, the nozzle dragged against the bed a bit. I believe it's because the z-offset is set when the bed is 65C, and it expands when heated to 100C for ABS/ASA, and the nozzle expands even more at 260+ degrees.
Just be prepared with the manual z-offset :) (Or change the calibration/startup sequence)