Hey it's amazing this series! I've watched every second so I can do the same but I was wondering if do you think it could work with a d15z6 stock or a d15z6 but with the d16y6 cylinder head... Thank you so much!
Damn dude I could have helped with all that stuff, pulsar turbos are great, and that manifold is also great however it will put the turbo VERY close if not touching the block, I highly recommend the honed adaptor I ran one on my recent b18 turbo build
Thanks Tristan! But all good I knew exactly what I wanted. I knew would be close go block as I'm definitely not the first to fit this turbo. Had a similar manifold on my B turbo and had to shave the block too. So keeeeen
Hey bro loving your videos. I did back to back testing on 16psi sr20 with 3inch vs 4inch intercooler and 3 inch got heat soaked and lost power over 3 back to back runs where as 4 inch stayed with in 1hp each run and we even forgot to turn the fan on for the 4 inch so your 3 inch would be perfect for that power. It did make the boost drop but that’s because of less restriction so if we turned the boost up it would of been more total power and response vs the 3 inch. We also tested 2,2.5,3,4 inch intercooler piping. 3 inch was the best with most hp and response everything smaller just made the turbo work harder creating more heat and less power. 4 inch made it spool faster again but then lost top end because that volume of air was to big for 16psi. So your set up is basically ideal.
Thanks mate appreciate the feedback! I find the setup ideal for track use. If i wanted that crazy response, i'd definitely have sized up a smaller setup overall. But we are about to hook up a 3 port and see if we can get more area under the curve.
@@JCYT so once you do that you’ll create more heat all round and if you end up racing in summer that’s where the bigger non heat soaking cooler would really shine. You not only want to make more power but you want it to be reliable and intake temperatures that don’t move are extremely good for your motor lessening knock and just always running cooler. When we did 3 vs 4 inch we also tested psi before the cooler and after and the turbo was running 2psi more on the 3inch cooler so when you go 4 inch you get more response, for less boost and less heat production. You could also turn the boost up more if you wanted on the bigger cooler as your knock threshold would be higher. I have the dyno print outs if you’d like me to send them to you. You’ve inspired me to turbo the daily d series which I haven’t been bothered with cars in years so thank you.
@@JCYT we also back to back tested a 600hp rb26 with his previous 4 inch gtr cooler (cooling pro $400-500) to a brand new plazmaman gtr cooler 2200 both 600x300x100. The cooling pro cooler had 16-24hp more over 3 power runs. So that was a good lesson of brand name stuff isn’t necessary in intercoolers. You can get a 600x300x100 for $320 of just jap just so you know for further upgrades haha
Hey Mate, what a great project! I have a '99 Ek that I want to turbocharge in the future, but I've already started by purchasing the FuelTech FT550 ECU, Wideband Nano Pro, and flex fuel sensor. I want to install it in the car before adding the turbo to learn more about tuning. Now, my question is, where did you get the OBD2B jumper to connect the original harness with the standalone ECU?. Greetings from Perth! Cheers!
Hi Luis, I believe you messaged me. For others to know - i got it from element14 in australia. I think they are made by TE-connectivity. Will release a video on this with a full wiring pinout for the d16y4
You are right the injectors were too big. We ended up changing to 650cc in a later video but the fuel pump is sized appropriately. 190 will be too small for our e85 fuel
@@JCYT that should be a safe horsepower, the stock rods definitely don't like torque so can't spool too quick. But if you plan on retiring the motor after the season definitely put 30lbs into and see it go to the moon.
Hello mate im new in the buildings i have an ep2 with d16v1...can i put other parts of old d16's; or d16v1 only parts...i say it because the d16v1 have a little gama of parts thanks for your time ❤️
I've already done the hard work and included a full parts list in the description. Just copy and paste into google, these parts are all readily available.
Great! like that ! i do on my youtube chanel 295 HP and 377 tq with an D15Z6 at 18 psi ! CIVIC DAV4WS Slip-peut on dyno if you interesting . Thank's from France !
Yes it is. I had an 02 coupe with a Saab viggen turbo. Tdo4hl15t on a log manifold. Full spool at 2900 rpm. I ran 20lbs creep 16 lbs at redline for right at 220whp on Kpro y8 manifold. I had a problem with a few axles breaking, destroying engine mounts (even poly rear from innovate) and breaking exhaust manifold studs until I got arp. I sold the car 5 years ago after owning for couple years and it’s STILL running around my lil town.
Hi mate I am unsure about the D16A6 specifically but it should transfer across the D series platform. You will just need the ensure the manifold will suit.
That’s what my thoughts were, he could have spent 200 less on the turbo and still have a great turbo and use the remainder on a quality mani. You don’t pair good parts to junk because the end result is not good. Plus log manis boost creep
Unless it’s a drag car, you want a smaller turbo. That disco potato is definitely not the ultimate turbo for a quick spooling single cam powerhouse on the street or road course. Try a TD05H 16G, 20G or the 68 HTA…And the 2.5” charge pipe is also ridiculous. There’s no reason to “match” the charge piping size to the throttle body… you are force feeding the motor. You want 2” charge pipe. Trust me. I’ve had my EF hatchback boosted for 20 years. Been through all the gimmicks. A T25 turbo is too small. And anything bigger than a TD05 is a bit too big and will lag. I made 347 hp on my 16G that hit full boost at 3500 RPMs. Now I’m at 390 hp with the TD05 20G. Only other set up is use is the 68 HTA. Also absolutely zero reason to run water cooling to the turbo. Oil is all you need. Aesthetics don’t make the car fun. Build it right, with the right sizing and combination of parts and it will be more fun.
@@JCYTlearn and progress..? Is that what you’re doing..? Giving people the wrong advice with turbo single cams… when you make 390 to the tires on a TDO5 and have a quick spool in any gear you’re in on the street or road course, you let me know. My hondata with boost by gear, coil on plug, BC spring and retainer with speed factory cam will stomp any single cam you try to build. All while having a side mount intercooler and a stock radiator.
@@JCYTwhile you’re a memory at the starting line trying to spool your potato, my TD05 and I are already in 3rd gear. I wasn’t trying to be a dick but you decided you wanted to insult me a little. So there ya go.
Why on earth would you put an 800 dollar on sale turbo to a fkin cast log manifold? That’s just foolish and wild, you’ve already spent more on a turbo than you should have for this motor you should have bought a better manifold. It’s like wiping before you crap. It doesn’t make sense
I can understand why you may think this way. The beauty of a custom kit is being able to pick and choose how to spend your money. This is a budget turbo kit and there has to be some compromise between performance and reliability. I choose reliability any day of the week for what i do with this car. This setup is proven now, 7 months on and 5 trackdays without a single mechanical fault. There is no fabricated manifold remotely close to this pricepoint. We don't even have any off the shelf parts let alone turbo manifolds for the D series in Australia. Nothing wrong with cast. They are bloody strong and although their design is not the most efficient, that is the compromise i am willing to spend more on a turbocharger. I'm not sure you make any sense. Would you put a $200 dollar turbo on an $800 manifold?
Ya better get KEEN
The D Series Cup is going to be interesting!!!!
So what are you bringing? 😉
@@JCYT something interesting! 😉
Love a turbo d series. Had my z6 turbod for a while, on 10psi, road tune by myself. Loved it. Going k20 now.
Awesome! What ended up happening to the z6?
@@JCYT I've still got it, currently in the process of doing the swap. Not sure if I want to put it in another shell or sell it.
@@ekcivicukwhere are you located?
Woah man that’s crazy! It’s going to blow up
Does that mean yours is gonna blow up too :P? Haha guys are doing the same turbo kit yeah?
At least yours will blow first
😂🎉
@jamesclay152 WTH do u know 😂
Only if you don’t rebuild the lower end of the engine
This is about to get real interesting.
Tell me about it! I'm so keen
Hey it's amazing this series! I've watched every second so I can do the same but I was wondering if do you think it could work with a d15z6 stock or a d15z6 but with the d16y6 cylinder head... Thank you so much!
i got the same thought 🤔🙃
Damn dude I could have helped with all that stuff, pulsar turbos are great, and that manifold is also great however it will put the turbo VERY close if not touching the block, I highly recommend the honed adaptor I ran one on my recent b18 turbo build
Thanks Tristan! But all good I knew exactly what I wanted. I knew would be close go block as I'm definitely not the first to fit this turbo. Had a similar manifold on my B turbo and had to shave the block too. So keeeeen
@@JCYT good stuff man keep it up
I've been thinking about buying an EK Civic, your channel is convincing me! Love it mate!
It's awesome! My favourite car of all time
@@JCYT I might just have to get one! 👌
So much good info thank you for explaining everything in detail 🙏👍🏽
My pleasure mate
Funny how i found your channel a week ago because I wanted to track an ek now i bought an ek and im thinking of building the d16 for turbo
Bahaha perfect!
Are you in Australia?
I'm so keen cant wait
@@JCYT no I'm in the US I'll definitely be following the build
Hey bro loving your videos. I did back to back testing on 16psi sr20 with 3inch vs 4inch intercooler and 3 inch got heat soaked and lost power over 3 back to back runs where as 4 inch stayed with in 1hp each run and we even forgot to turn the fan on for the 4 inch so your 3 inch would be perfect for that power. It did make the boost drop but that’s because of less restriction so if we turned the boost up it would of been more total power and response vs the 3 inch. We also tested 2,2.5,3,4 inch intercooler piping. 3 inch was the best with most hp and response everything smaller just made the turbo work harder creating more heat and less power. 4 inch made it spool faster again but then lost top end because that volume of air was to big for 16psi. So your set up is basically ideal.
Thanks mate appreciate the feedback!
I find the setup ideal for track use. If i wanted that crazy response, i'd definitely have sized up a smaller setup overall. But we are about to hook up a 3 port and see if we can get more area under the curve.
@@JCYT so once you do that you’ll create more heat all round and if you end up racing in summer that’s where the bigger non heat soaking cooler would really shine. You not only want to make more power but you want it to be reliable and intake temperatures that don’t move are extremely good for your motor lessening knock and just always running cooler.
When we did 3 vs 4 inch we also tested psi before the cooler and after and the turbo was running 2psi more on the 3inch cooler so when you go 4 inch you get more response, for less boost and less heat production. You could also turn the boost up more if you wanted on the bigger cooler as your knock threshold would be higher. I have the dyno print outs if you’d like me to send them to you. You’ve inspired me to turbo the daily d series which I haven’t been bothered with cars in years so thank you.
@@JCYT we also back to back tested a 600hp rb26 with his previous 4 inch gtr cooler (cooling pro $400-500) to a brand new plazmaman gtr cooler 2200 both 600x300x100. The cooling pro cooler had 16-24hp more over 3 power runs. So that was a good lesson of brand name stuff isn’t necessary in intercoolers. You can get a 600x300x100 for $320 of just jap just so you know for further upgrades haha
That honed coolant spacer is genius! I see they have a b18c2 version, do you happen to know if it would fit USDM B16A2? I'm assuming it would.
U r so good on DIY ur car projects
Thank you!
As always informative and helpful video.
Thanks mate appreciate it
Keen to see how you go about the ECU, running into roadblocks with my build regarding that as well 😮
Whats your plan with engine management?
@@JCYT well I'm not so sure because the y5 has an OBD2 ECU so I was going to look into haltech but wasn't sure how to go about it
hey mate i know it's been a while but the ECU pinout video is now up!
@@JCYT I saw bro, thanks for your work with this. Makes it so much easier to get my head around.
Hey Mate, what a great project! I have a '99 Ek that I want to turbocharge in the future, but I've already started by purchasing the FuelTech FT550 ECU, Wideband Nano Pro, and flex fuel sensor. I want to install it in the car before adding the turbo to learn more about tuning. Now, my question is, where did you get the OBD2B jumper to connect the original harness with the standalone ECU?. Greetings from Perth! Cheers!
Hi Luis,
I believe you messaged me. For others to know - i got it from element14 in australia. I think they are made by TE-connectivity. Will release a video on this with a full wiring pinout for the d16y4
I got a d16v1, no knowledge on finding a turbo kit let alone install one but I think I may try to build one like this 😅😂😂
Looking at the cost I might jus go for the k20 swap 😅😂😂
Hey mate unfortunately we don't have the d16v1 so I'm not sure what's compatible with them
@@JCYT ahhh no worries thank you for the reply
I am definitely doing this..
..but where am I going to get all this stuff?? Links??
Thought this was going to go into the cruiser at first sight of the thumbnail.
Hahahaha it'd be mad fun that's for sure!
Going to copy this build lol I was thinking of swapping my coupe but I kind of want to build a d
You won't regret mate!
D techhhh lets goooooooo
your ek is looking so good dude, love your channel
Thanks my dude appreciate the feedback!
Yallah, time to get another D series🤣will be faster than the B and K i reckon
Hahaha be interesting to put it up against both a B and K NA
great video
Thanks mate 😊
What a great little kit, where is this kit sourced from mate? Local?
Hey mate sorry for the slow response.
Check the video description. Most of the parts sourced online or locally to me in Australia
This is gonna be sik
SIKD16
That's pretty high end injectors and fuel pump for 300hp imo. Sure you're gonna run E85 but 1250cc for 300hp?
I'm getting a walbro 190 and 650cc's
You are right the injectors were too big. We ended up changing to 650cc in a later video but the fuel pump is sized appropriately. 190 will be too small for our e85 fuel
You really wanna win D series cup 😂
Hahahaha yes but I really should not win it
@@JCYT will only make the other more competitive if you do 🫡
Injectors are definitely not going to be your issue, the pinky thick con rods are. It's super cheap to build a d series and necessary to make 300hp.
Hoping for a reliable year @135kw to finish the racing season then probably turn up the boost and see how much it can handle!
@@JCYT that should be a safe horsepower, the stock rods definitely don't like torque so can't spool too quick. But if you plan on retiring the motor after the season definitely put 30lbs into and see it go to the moon.
I'm gonna buy a 88' CRX HF, make that bad boy RWD and do this, thank you🙏
Good luck with it!
Hello mate im new in the buildings i have an ep2 with d16v1...can i put other parts of old d16's; or d16v1 only parts...i say it because the d16v1 have a little gama of parts thanks for your time ❤️
(my project is going for turbo stock engine turbo)
Hey mate
Im sorry but we dont have the d16v1 in Australia so i didn't know they existed. Cool they have vtec though!
By any chance do you have links for these parts, from sydney too and also building my ek
I've already done the hard work and included a full parts list in the description.
Just copy and paste into google, these parts are all readily available.
Great! like that ! i do on my youtube chanel 295 HP and 377 tq with an D15Z6 at 18 psi ! CIVIC DAV4WS Slip-peut on dyno if you interesting . Thank's from France !
Thanks mate
Ive got a d17a2 is it good for 5-7 psi
Somewhat reliably ive got a spare d17a2 aswell.
Yes it is. I had an 02 coupe with a Saab viggen turbo. Tdo4hl15t on a log manifold. Full spool at 2900 rpm. I ran 20lbs creep 16 lbs at redline for right at 220whp on Kpro y8 manifold. I had a problem with a few axles breaking, destroying engine mounts (even poly rear from innovate) and breaking exhaust manifold studs until I got arp. I sold the car 5 years ago after owning for couple years and it’s STILL running around my lil town.
How much boost are you running?
Thinking about 12psi Max on E85
What ecu?
Just sww your channel.
@@JCYT
Haltech Elite 550
do you have a link for everything you bought?
Hi mate
Too many parts, be hard to share all the links.
I've included a list of parts in the description
What blow off valve are you running?
Won't be running one 😁
Could this also applie to a D16A6?
Hi mate
I am unsure about the D16A6 specifically but it should transfer across the D series platform. You will just need the ensure the manifold will suit.
Whats d-series engine is in this car
Stock D16Y4
Do you have ac and ps?
I had both. Keeping PS only until I source the right style discharge flange to make it ac compatible.
what blow off do you have?
No blow off valve fitted
@@JCYT in the video "TURBO D SERIES easily makes KSWAP power" you let Marcus drive the car and it sounds like you have a blow off valve, no?
Yes this particular turbo is quite loud. No BOV fitted.
I could fit one but i actually quite like how it sounds the way it is
Part 2
Coming up 😊
Said budged.. 800dollar turbo
$800 turbo on a log manifold come onnn
You gotta compromise sometimes. I'd love to build my own. Who knows, I just might!
That’s what my thoughts were, he could have spent 200 less on the turbo and still have a great turbo and use the remainder on a quality mani. You don’t pair good parts to junk because the end result is not good. Plus log manis boost creep
Next videoo nex
Coming up!
Unless it’s a drag car, you want a smaller turbo. That disco potato is definitely not the ultimate turbo for a quick spooling single cam powerhouse on the street or road course. Try a TD05H 16G, 20G or the 68 HTA…And the 2.5” charge pipe is also ridiculous. There’s no reason to “match” the charge piping size to the throttle body… you are force feeding the motor. You want 2” charge pipe. Trust me. I’ve had my EF hatchback boosted for 20 years. Been through all the gimmicks. A T25 turbo is too small. And anything bigger than a TD05 is a bit too big and will lag. I made 347 hp on my 16G that hit full boost at 3500 RPMs. Now I’m at 390 hp with the TD05 20G. Only other set up is use is the 68 HTA. Also absolutely zero reason to run water cooling to the turbo. Oil is all you need. Aesthetics don’t make the car fun. Build it right, with the right sizing and combination of parts and it will be more fun.
By your comments it shows you have absolutely no desire to learn and progress.
Let me guess you're still running an Apexi Power FC with MSD blaster?
@@JCYTlearn and progress..? Is that what you’re doing..? Giving people the wrong advice with turbo single cams… when you make 390 to the tires on a TDO5 and have a quick spool in any gear you’re in on the street or road course, you let me know. My hondata with boost by gear, coil on plug, BC spring and retainer with speed factory cam will stomp any single cam you try to build. All while having a side mount intercooler and a stock radiator.
@@JCYTwhile you’re a memory at the starting line trying to spool your potato, my TD05 and I are already in 3rd gear. I wasn’t trying to be a dick but you decided you wanted to insult me a little. So there ya go.
what’s your piston setup? i want to build a togue setup and want 300~hp on a quick spool so i can come out of a corner hard
@@j.feldmander1956great bit of wisdom. I know of a hatch Mitsubishi GSR 1.6T with a TD05 and the thing was a rocket!
imangine spending $3k on a dseries instead of goin b or k swap . yikes
In aus, the price of kswap is 15k. So yeah it does make sense in this area of the world
Why on earth would you put an 800 dollar on sale turbo to a fkin cast log manifold? That’s just foolish and wild, you’ve already spent more on a turbo than you should have for this motor you should have bought a better manifold. It’s like wiping before you crap. It doesn’t make sense
I can understand why you may think this way. The beauty of a custom kit is being able to pick and choose how to spend your money. This is a budget turbo kit and there has to be some compromise between performance and reliability. I choose reliability any day of the week for what i do with this car. This setup is proven now, 7 months on and 5 trackdays without a single mechanical fault.
There is no fabricated manifold remotely close to this pricepoint. We don't even have any off the shelf parts let alone turbo manifolds for the D series in Australia. Nothing wrong with cast. They are bloody strong and although their design is not the most efficient, that is the compromise i am willing to spend more on a turbocharger.
I'm not sure you make any sense. Would you put a $200 dollar turbo on an $800 manifold?