How to bleed Your Brakes (replace brake fluid)
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- This video demonstrates how to replace the brake fluid in your car. Its a lot easier than you might think!
All you need is a vacuum kit, a wrench, and some brake fluid!!
Here is the gear you need (verify wrench size and fluid type, yours may be different if you are not driving an Xterra)
And DONT FORGET TO PUMP YOUR BRAKES BEFORE DRIVING OFF.
Click the link next to it to be brought to the product page:
ABN Brake Bleeder Pump - amzn.to/2AhFuEI
10mm wrench - tinyurl.com/jcl...
Prestone DOT 3 Brake Fluid - amzn.to/2ni1ef0
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***As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases by use of affiliate links.
#howto #diy #auto
Hey everyone! I keep getting questions about the air in the lines. I wanted to let you know that the air was NOT coming out of the brake system. It was coming from the seal around the bleed nipple. In retrospect I should have used a hose clamp around the nipple to gently apply pressure and create a better seal. If you do that you should see those bubbles go away. Thanks!
That situation will falsify everything as you will never be sure whether you have taken all the air out or not. You can also use grease oil.
The air probably wasn't coming from the bleeder nipple to hose adapter interface, it was probably coming in from the bleeder threads to caliper body interface. Sometimes if you open the bleeder too far and use vacuum to pull the old brake fluid out you can also end up pulling air past the bleeder threads. Sometimes it happens no matter how little you open it. The solution is to either open the bleeder just barely enough to get brake fluid flowing and/or put some grease around the base of the bleeder where it meets the caliper.
Just use some tie-wraps around the hose line at the coupling locations...this should stop the leaks..
Nice video. Thank you
Order of bleeding should be RR, LR,RF, LF …. Its the opposite of what was said in the video … you should work from the longest line to the shortest line.
A few pointers to add. I know its been mentioned a thousand times already but you start with the furthest and work your way closer (unless you have 4 wheel ABS, then it can be either way, you just have to take a look to make sure). You want to hold the hose angled upwards so that those little bubbles sitting right by the nipple don't get sucked back into the brakes before you're done for whatever reason. I'd also recommend a closed wrench or a flare nut wrench on anything brake related to avoid stripping. Ask me and my new brake lines how I figured that last one out... I appreciate the breakdown on how to use a bleeder tool/pump though and I agree with using the long hoses on both ends of the pump reservoir. You are very good at explaining the process thoroughly and all in all, I appreciate the video!
I just used that kit today on the wifes Hyundai I10. I did not use the black rubber nipple attachment but put the clear hose direct to nipple with a little silicone on the bleed nipple. I stay right next to the sea so have real problems with rust from the salt, I had to gently file the sharp edges off the bleed nipple to avoid tearing/puncturing the hose. Kit is really simple to use and quick. Good video, clear instructions, would have been good to see you pulling through fluid without any bubbles to get a true reflection of the system. All in all well done and thank you.
Was in the Auto Parts business for 38 years. I always remembered that manufacturers said to start at the furthest brake away for bleeding brakes which would be the passenger rear brake Drum or Caliper. Then work your way over to the Driver side rear and then to the Passenger side front then to the driver side front where the master cylinder is located. Did something change? In this way you flush your main brake line to the rear of the car working your way up. I would not recommend using a adjustable wrench for the bleeder screw as you can easily strip it. Box end only. Just got done with bleeding brakes on a 17 year old Ford E150 Van that I own being the front right brake hose blew out from rust on the metal line part of the rubber hose on one side so I replaced both sides. What a bear it was to get the driver side bleeder fitting to Open up destroying it in the process. Ended up replacing it with a new bleeder. Had to heat the old one to loosen it to replace it with the aid of a good set of Vise Grips. Ran into this problem plenty of times over the years. Not knocking this video at all. You did a great job putting it together showing your steps. I enjoyed watching it. Just felt I needed to add a few things from my experience.
Thanks. Everyone says to start from the furthest. Personally I think it makes no difference. They say its to avoid "contamination".
However if anyone thinks that they will get ALL contaminants out by simply swapping the fluids then they are crazy LOL.
Honda service manual starts at left front and clockwise from there.
That's from experience and the way its been done forever. A lot of services manuals actually say to start at the left front, closest to the master cylinder. We need more research! lol.
@@bigwilliearmitage
Japanese are a different breed...
Lol
Jks
I thought the master cylinder needed to be closed when bleeding/flushing the brakes?
Never use an adjustable spanner on hex nuts. You will strip them.
I agree!..Best to use a flare nut ring spanner or at least a ring spanner.
@@swingmanic I use a line wrench. That's the type of use that style of wrench is designed for. It's as strong as a box end wrench and allows you to use it with a line or hose attached to the fitting you're turning.
@@MisterJim-uj3gd Line wrench & flare nut ring spanner are the same down here in Oztralia, just different terminology.
@@swingmanic By the way, I appreciate your video. It enabled me to do the bleed job myself. I've done it with my wife's help before and it is never easy that way. How can someone mess up "Push the pedal all the way down and hold it there until I say leave up"? She always manages to try to pump the pedal before I close the bleeder valve thus letting air back into the system. "It felt too soft so I thought I had to pump it." DON'T PUMP IT UNLESS I TELL YOU TO!!
She could screw up a Sunday School picnic, I cringe when I have to ask her for help with anything, but sometimes I have to. BUT not for brakes any more! THANK YOU!!!
Gerald Carey yes it may work to get the job done but you risk rounding out the bleeder screw all of the brake lines are connected with what you call flair fittings wich requires a flair wrench it grips on to the flat parts of the screw much better if you are planing on taking the a5 ase test that will for sure be one of the questions
Thanks Ry for an extremely informative and helpful video tutorial
on this simple but still confusing, essential maintenance procedure
Aren't you suppose to start at the brake "furthest" away from your reservoir?
You can start with any of them. It does not really matter. The goal is just to get all the old liquid out.
I have always started left front then right front my theory being that that it gets the old fluid away from the master cylinder, proportioning valve etc. first via the shortest path. Why push all that old contaminated fluid all the way to the back of the vehicle? Short answer - I have had good results regardless of which wheel I start at. The exception would be if the master cylinder needs bleeding, which would naturally be done first, either with bleeder tubes (one person) or at the two outlet pipes (two people).
The rationale Ry is that by cleaning out the longest line first, you don't draw old fluid into the next wheel you bleed.
Correct!
Yeah that's what I thought as well, but I believe the main thing is not letting the old fluid(at the calipers) back up into the abs.
You have explained this extremely well. THANK YOU.
Glad it was helpful!
It looks like your car dispensed some beer! Thanks for the cool review, thinking about this system
Thank you for all your videos. Cheers
My pleasure! Thank you so much for the super thanks. 👍🏻
Thank you very much.This is a very good explanation for help with this brake fluid change procidure.Is been an explicid and well organize lecture I will call technical and knolegeble help vidio.Again THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!
Great video man well explained
Thanks!
Thanks Ry! I love your videos. They are A++++
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching. 👍🏻
Always best first to remove old contaminated brake fluid from the mastercylinder fluid reservoir on top otherwise accumulated brake dust, dirt, etc Will go back into lines causing more fluid to be pumped out to achieve nice clean clear brake fluid.
Excellent video thanks. Reading my Audi service manual it is bleed from the front first.
Great video. Nice job!
Thanks!
Instead of waiting for it to come in on amazon harbor freight has a really nice one I use it at work all the time great tool .They also have another tool similar but instead of sucking fluid it works with the fluid to push the air up and out because air likes to travel up with this tool I’m talking about you just open master cylinder lid leave it kind of open pump the tool and all I does is push all the air up much more simple I seen the tool on a Scotty Kilmer episode I really want that tool
Awesome video very well explained. Thanks
It's a good idea to wear safety glasses too.
I think there is a misconception here.. a spounge brake pedal is not a sign of water in the brake fluid.
Water is just as not compressable as brake fluid.
If you have a spounge brake pedal it indicates another fault, most probably air in the brake fluid.
The reason for changing the brake fluid is, as you said that it is hydroscopic, it attracts water.
When water gets in to the brake fluid, it corrodes parts inside the brake system, like for example the pistons.
use a small amount of brake grease around the threads of the bleed screw, this will stop the small air bubbles
Great tip!
Very nice tutorial... Congratulation!!!
Ry, great video, quite detailed, most informative, thank you.
But must confess I winced a little whenever I saw you use your adjustable spanner on the brake bleeders. Viewer Gerald Carey commented NOT to use an adjustable spanner because it might strip the threads. Well, I don't know about that bit but, imo, the greater risk with the adjustable spanner is rounding off the corners of the hex heads...especially if the brake bleeder is tight or frozen in. Dealing with a rounded-off, tight and unfriendly brake bleeder is NOT a place you want your viewers to be in, especially if they are DIYers with limited tools. :)
To first crack open a brake bleeder (just slightly, before fitting the plastic tube) it's best, imo, to use a quality brand socket (preferably 6-point) of the correct size OR a quality brand flare nut spanner/wrench (such as Stahlwille or Snap-On, or similar). Use the same tool for the final tightening when you've finished bleeding a caliper.
Once again, thanks for the video, it's one of the better ones on this subject on RUclips.
Is it bad to just pump the brake pedal to flush the brake lines? Assuming the reservoir is kept topped off.
Not at all. That method is just easier with two people.
Bro, you do great videos. Very well spoken, on point and very descriptive . Keep em coming. I listen to your videos on my drive to and from work. If I weren't 1,000 miles away, I'd buy you a beer.... cheers!
That’s awesome dude! Watching the videos is thanks enough.
You can always mail him a Beer !!!
What’s the about on this tool pump , works good or not so good
Thxs , guess using grease or some guy said use Teflon on the bleeder screw idk
I kept pumping until my rear seats appeared in the bottle
Here is what the service manual says for 2015 Xterra says.
1. Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) connector or battery
negative terminal.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear right bleed valve.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With brake pedal depressed, loosen bleed valve to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten bleed valve to the specified torque.
7. Perform steps 2 to 6 at each wheel, with master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air
from the front left, rear left, and front right bleed valves, in that order.
You make a really good informative video thank you and keep doing it u got talent
muito bom o vídeo. parabéns pelo trabalho.
Thank you!! Managed to do it!
I am used to having to pump the brake pedal a friend of mine tried this system and still had to pump the brake pedal couldn't suck the fluid through the system
Ry, best video on bedding brakes(replacing brake fluid) the vacuum pump you used is set to be ordered. Peace of mind, thanks.
i hope you got a wrench set by now. that adjustable one was ridiculous for this service. You didnt mention if the clean liquid still had bubbles. what if bubbles were still coming through the clean liquid?
Bubbles in clean fluid usually means air is getting in the bleeder threads
Great explanation of the problem at the beginning of the video. Thanks.
Patrick from Bethesda, Maryland, USA
Thanks for watching!
Do you have the brake reservoir cap on or off while you pump the brake fluid out of the brake line?
Off
Here is my 2 cents worth. try not to use a crescent wrench and you will not have stripped out nuts bolts. And the brake fluid in a drinking glass looks like tea or coke.
I think you got you're info a little mixed up hun. Youre supposed to start at the caliper that's farthest away from the cylinder and typically with Nissan there's an order of operations. For example on my M35 Infiniti, you start at the rear right then front left then rear left and front right.
Also with Hydroscopic fluid the reason that you don't want water or moisture in there is because once the temperature if the surrounding fluid raises any trapped moisture will hit a boiling point and evaporate. It then becomes gas or essentially air in the system which then is a moot point to having bled the system in the 1st place.
I can see why you stated from the closest brake. That will drain the reservoir first, then proceed as usual. I think you used the adjustable wrench to show that anyone can use whatever they have. No sense in buying something when you can use something else! Good job on the video, it was a straight forward approach and simple to do. Bleeding the brakes is one thing and cleaning out the fluid is another. Keep up the good work! THANKS.
Until you strip the head of the bleeder ot the threads in the caliper and then have to get a new caliper/bleeder. And that always happens at night when the store are closed or they don't have it in stock and have to wait days for it. No replacement for the proper tool. It will last a lifetime. If your willing to take on this job, your willing to do it again which means you will use the tool more than once. And the money saved by doing it yourself more than pays for any tool you have to purchase
replaced clutch master cylinder & slave on wife's car, the THE BRAKE & CLUTCH SHARE THE SAME RESERVOIR after bleeding the clutch cylinder the clutch pedal is hard now, will bleeding brakes need to be done? any help is appreciated.
perfect demo. TU. but why start off with driver side. all other videos say the rear passenger side and then rear driver side.
you need to start from the side that is nearest to the main cylinder. thus immediately drain the maximum amount of an older / dirty brake fluid
ok I tried that - a few comments:
1) my vacuum pump DID created and hold pressure perfectly when I put my tumb at the end of the tube
2) it did NOT however hold pressure when I connected it to the bleeding nipple, once I've open the valve for bleeding than pressure falls down and liquid will not come out.
3) I tried to put grease on the nipple and adapter - did not help
4) I tried zip tied it - also did not help
5) I tried smaller tube - did not help
6) I tried without adapter (just tube) - did not help even with zip tied and grease
eventually I ended up using a bottle and a friend pumping the brake
what have I done wrong?
I always thought it was "start furthest away"?
Yeah Me too... I have an 07 Armada and the manual says to start with Rt rear then Dr Front, drvr Rear then Rt front.. in that order... However its using the brake pedal method and not this self method, so not sure if should be reversed..?? Also step 1 says pull abs or batt neg cable..
Bleeding Brake System EFS006SW
CAUTION:
While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level.
1. Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) connector or battery
negative cable.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear right bleed valve.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With brake pedal depressed, loosen bleed valve to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten bleed valve to the specified torque. Refer to BR-21, "Components" (front disc brake), BR-27,
"Components" (rear disc brake).
7. Perform steps 2 through 6 at each wheel, with master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed
air in order from the front left, rear left, and front right bleed valves.
Has anyone mentioned that you're supposed to start at the caliper furthest from the master cylinder yet? lol jk. Good video, thanks for taking the time to make it.
Great video. Thanks !!! Going to flush my 2022 ford edge with 70k miles
thx ive gt one but the instruction wasnt clear so i used the old way by pumping brakes but now ill use it keep up the good work frm uk
My car has 125k miles. I have never changed the brake fluid. Should I do this asap? Leave it alone? or get the job done on the next break job? Thx
Never done that, sitting here with the kit. Very good video. Thank you
great video, a little too much talk but still very good
Some guys do video's but don't explain what they are doing, I'd rather they explain every step.
Thanks for making the effort to make the video.
If I were doing it I would do the line that is the longest and furthest from the brake fluid reservoir.
I would use a quality ring spanner
The kit looked decent and certainly not expensive but I'd like one with a bigger container - so I could do all my pouring out of old fluid at the end.
Brake fluid compresses .5% per 1000 psi. Water at 10,000 psi is less than 3% air is ur problem
Correct thank you, I miss spoke in the video and I’ve been paying for it for years lol.
brilliant video, you have gained a subscriber :)
Thanks for the sub!
I see a lot of bubbles coming out of the line. In the past this has indicated air in the line which can cause a spongy pedal. Thoughts?
Vacuum pumps draw air through the bleeder thread that will appear like trapped air in the system. Grease the thread of the bleeder to prevent this, you should probably use caliper seal grease to prevent possible contamination.
A bunch of very tiny micro-bubbles that doesn't stop is probably air getting sucked in around the bleeder threads and nothing to worry about because it can't get into the cylinder. If you continue to pull large bubbles, it could be air being sucked past the internal piston seal - not good, because that is putting air into the cylinder. That is the one down side to using vacuum bleeders. After a while, with experience you will learn to tell the difference between what is ok and what is not.
Don't you need a scan tool to open up those solenoid valves on a car with ABS ?
Great video! :)
Slowing fine tuning my xterra with your videos, also full suspension replacement, radiator and heats hoses, plugs and coils etc. Thanks for the help
damn good job sir, you explained it perfect.
Nice demo . The only thing is , is that im hearing most videos saying to leave the location under the reservoir til last. Youre saying do that one first. So does anyone have any factual info on this.
+John it depends, the general rule is to leave it for last. But for instance my audi has a specific order and on that car you start with the furthest one away and work you way closer. My opinion is that if your manual does not specify then do it in any order you want.
For those who asked, the service manual says
Perform steps 2 to 6 at each wheel, with master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air
from the front left, rear left, and front right bleed valve, in that order.
Thanks for the video, btw the pump was no more available in the link below 😅
Thanks for putting effort in making this video. However it was painful to watch you do it withe the tools you chose and I'm not talking about your vacuum pump. This stuff needs to be replaced every 3 to 5 years at the latest depending on your environmental conditions and definitely not when you "feel the symptoms". Also why everyone is saying to top the reservoir off periodically? You only wanna do it with the brand new brake pads/rotors installed, that way the level of fluid tells you how worn your brakes are and you won't spill it when you compress the cylinders while changing your pads.
You live in a cold climate don’t you?
Do you always have to remove the tire when bleeding brakes?
No, you shouldn’t have to. As long as you can reach the bleed nipple. Might just be a pain.
muy bueno gracias
De nada! 💪🏻
which caliper to bleed first depends on the model of your car.
Why can't my mechanic figure this out !!!
As always, brief and comprehensive! Thanks. I'm definitely ordering this kit to do my mums car. I had no idea they were so cheap and handy.
Wouldthis process be the same for all vehicles?
It can be. Check ur manufacturer for recommended service
Geez, the old white beard I used to work with would flog me if he caught me using a crescent wrench (and God help you if you got busted with vice grips)... especially on a bleeder nipple. folks, use a line wrench for this... even if you have to get a set at harbor freight.
..kinky
Adjustable wrench, definite no no. Also, start by removing most, but not all, of the old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster, or something similar. Then, refill reservoir with new fluid, and start with the furthest brake from the reservoir, the rear passenger side brake. Next, the driver side rear brake, then, passenger side front brake, ending with driver's side front brake. Also, anytime you need to remove the fluid bottle container, or any other line of the bleeder system, always close the bleeder valve so you dont run the risk of reintroducing air into the system.
Adjustable wrench is more than fine on a FL car and the 80 year old myth of “start from the furthest from the reservoir” is categorically false. Modem cars have all different kinds of circuits the bleed pattens vary. Even that aside it still does not make a large impact. I do like the turkey baster idea so you have to drain less out at the first wheel.
I’m confused
You said to bleed the caliper closest to the reservoir first, but I’ve seen numerous other people insist that the farthest caliper should be bled first.
Am I confusing the bleeding process with the flushing process?
Nope you're not mixing them up. The rule of thumb is that you start from the furthest away but that is not true for all cars. Please reference your repair manual for the proper order.
Adjustable Wrench....total madness.
Lol. Works just fine on Florida cars.
Excellent video very well done great help thanks so much!
One comment. It would have been good to mention that brake fluid absorbs water, so you should always use a freshly-opened bottle.
Ah yes, very good point.
might be a stupid question: can this be done with the tires on? obv, it's easier to shoot for demo purposes w/tires off, but I think i can probably do this tires on, no?
Yea! Might be a little tight but I have done it on multiple cars without removing the tires.
A few technical problems but thanks for showing us the per wheel technique for this. I'm sold on the two person, mash the pedal, open the nipple, close the nipple, repeat.
“A few technical problems” is actually my middle name. LOL thanks for watching
The only thing I caught, as far as misspeaking goes, is that you said the "start with the wheel CLOSEST to the master cylinder, and then follow with the second FARTHEST away, the third and then fourth". That seemed like an error. You probably meant "follow with the second closest, third and then fourth." Check your video. Am I right or wrong?
Every car have it differently. It's in your manual . For example golf mk4 have 2 diferent patterns. It depends on system . And it does matter but I guess only if for some reason you lost all brake fluid and have to bleed from beginning ( I had serious brake failure ) . And it is very hard to bleed empty system .
@@robertkowalewski7294 You are correct, Every car's different. On my 2 vans bleeding is X sequence. LR FR RR LF. I just got done changing all brake lines on 1 of them and after bleeding off and on for 2 days straight my brakes are still spongy. Pedal goes almost to the floor. I don't know if a pressure bleeder will even help.
@@tinytim9453 when i had to bleed empty system had to do both wheels simultaneously
Rather helpful, thanks! Was always curious about these one man kits, and this video was the first result on youtube. Glad I watched it!
Good tutorial, would of mentioned when pumping fluid make sure it's clear and no bubbles also use a ring spanner on bleed nipple ,but good video in all
👍🏻
Hello,
Where actually should i start the bleeding for a nissan pathfinder, go through lot of comments here says different.
Wherever you want, it does not matter. The 100 year old rule of thumb is furthest to nearest. That's fine for 99.99% of cars.
When emptying out the container do you close off the bleeder valve ??
Yes I do.
You didn't in the video. You suggested holding the container higher to slow gravity flow. Probably why he asked.
Do you have the correct order to bleed the brales for an 07 Xterra? I hear its not the conventional way as in pass side rear, driver rear, pass side front, driver front. I hear its driver side rear, pass side rear, driver side front, pass side front. Is this true? I installed a new master cylinder, bench bleed it, and bleed the system about 5 times and Im still getting air. No leaks in the system what so ever!
thanks for the video, i was confused on how to set up this kit lol
Glad I could help!
Which wheel I suppose to start and which one end?
What car do you have? It’s different for each one.
I have camry 1998 4 cylinder
Water in the fluid does not compress until it gets hot and "boils". The vapor is then compressible. Micro-bubbles of H2O then spread homogeneously throughout the brake fluid and the spongy pedal will remain until a fluid exchange is accomplished. The Micro-bubbles will also cause rust throughout the system fairly quickly. Rust is harmful to everything in the system but is particularly harmful quickly to ABS pump and brake calipers.
Nissan Xterra FSM sequence: right rear, left front, left rear, right front.
👍🏻
Do you have to take the wheels off? I haven’t looked yet.
And is the order; LF, PR, DR, PF
OR… RR, LR, RF, LF? Oh my! I’m getting confused.
It's easier if you take the wheels off. Order is WAY less important than people make it sound. The rule of thumb is to start from the furthest away form the master cylinder then work to the closest. That would be the second order you listed.
@@Rythecarguy Thank you! I just found a place where I can work on it myself, and you can rent a bay and use their tools. Looks like it’s going to be an adventure!
I'm confused... I hear a lot of conflicting ways of bleeding brakes. 1) Start from the furthest away 2) Start from the closest away. Which is it?
Always follow the manual. It's technically different for different types of cars. It's an old rule of thumb to start from the furthest away. Remember in the end, it really does not matter that much.
@Ry the car guy Thanks for the speedy reply. Great videos. 👍👍
There are a lot of bubbles in the hose. I think your connection to the bleeder valve is sucking in air.
+Jeffrey B yea, it came with little hose clamp but i wasn't going to mess with all of that
massive air leak in that vacum hose to bleeder valve connection . a thick grease will help seal that air leak
even a zip-tie would probably work to.
Why couldn't I let run dry? I mean, I know about the air and all, but doing this way on the video, we are mixing old with new fluid. Couldn't I just run it all out and then refill and make sure the air is taken out? Thanks
The mixing will be absolutely minimal at best. I would not worry about that. Secondly, Getting all the air out of a completely drained system would be a complete pain and would take far more time than it’s worth.
@@Rythecarguy i saw another video after yours, that the guy takes the air off the master cylinder and it takes awhile... anyway, I did this job just like video this morning but I could not garantee there is no air in the system because there were lots of bubbles still coming out, which I believe were from the nipple, but I couldn't be sure... Anyway, I will drive for a while and see how the pedal feels. Thanks
Really good and explained process. I had never done this way on flushing fluid, and as of now it won't be an issue . Thanks
Patrick
Here my trouble
I gotta say, you've done a lot of great videos, but this one is at the top. Great job :-)
Thank you! I really appreciate it.
I just bought one 2 days ago to test the EGR valve on my Toyota Pickup. The frickin' thing pumps great but will not hold a vacuum. I tested it by blocking the brass nipple on the pump itself with my finger. After pumping it up it slowly then quickly starts to lose vacuum. It's going back tomorrow for the $40 one. Maybe I just got a dud. Would probably still work fine for bleeding hydraulic systems
maybe Im wrong but dont you want to start on the farthest brake from the cylinder?
No, that’s a rule of thumb and all cars may be different. Read your service manual and it will tell you.
Are you Crazy using your Beer Glass? Never sacrifice your Beer glass! LOL Maybe you can wash it with Brake clean! LOL Great video thanks, One guy said to do the furthest caliper firs at least with Gravity feed on a c3 corvette.
tq bro you doing the right way may god bless you
All the best
Aren't you creating vacuum, NOT as you stated Pressure
A vacuum is a reduction in pressure relative to ambient pressure or “negative pressure” as some people refer to it.
I have this kit and was pumping, but the fluid doesn't fluid fast in that bottle. Sure, I opened the bleeding valve by a quarter or by 360. The fluid drups slowly through the tube to the bottle. It was just very slow. I was pumping, but there was no pressure. No vaccuum to the bottle. Just slow fluid drups. In 2 hours I got my first bottle full of old brake fluid. Real slow that pump!!! What is wrong??
I bought a kit which was faulty so got it replaced and that was faulty as well, same symptoms as you, 2 out of 3 kits faulty at shop
Yeah! First it has worked for my brother's car. Then I was bleeding my car and the kit didn't work for me anymore. Just one time using and thats it :( Really cheap!! Bad!!
A full 360° turn sounds a lot. You might be losing the vacuum past the thread of the bleeder so what dribbles out over 2hrs is just by gravity. Does your gauge still register any vacuum? On my old car (a 1980 WB Holden ute) the difference between closed and fully open is a tiny fraction of that - maybe 1/8 of a turn? (45°)
Ned The needle of the gauge just stay at the bottom. Really no pressure. So I let the gravity do the bleeding.......drops drops drops.......real slow. But if I put the hose between the pump and the bleeding valve, the vacuum works. But thats not the right way using this kit. Maybe the black round cap is malfunctioning. The kit has worked well, just for one time.
Sounds like you're onto it but yes, take care not to let any fluid get into the doings of the pump! I read some instructions downloaded for a similar device that specifically mentions an o-ring (or some such) seal that needs to be pushed home during assembly of the cup to maintain pressure. I live in Aus & I can't help noticing the higher quality of tooling generally available to US consumers. I just ordered a similar kit but it's only made of plastic and costs $45. To get a diecast body version costs over $200(!)
If the brake reservoir and abs pump on the front driver side then the sequence should be rear passenger tire -> rear driver side tire -> front passenger side tire -> driver side tire.
No... that sequence in the factory service manual is the one that should be followed. Different cars require different sequences.
You are wrong. Always start with the furthest and end with the closest. If reservoir is on the front left, start with right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
You’re wrong. Read the manual for the car you are bleeding and follow that. Not always the furthest.
No, not always.