Very Nice. I Fabed my own using this video I don't have a milling machine or lathe,, so I got crafty with that aspect where I couldn't go was the burner flares ,, no tig,, only stick & mig welder yours are really well made best ones ive seen
I’ve been looking at videos of making burners, this one looks the best so far, I like the way this guy does things. I’m going to have a go at making one following this video. Thank you Sir
I've watched quite a few videos on this subject and your's is the best one! No doubt. I appreciate your design, process and specific nature to this issue of propane forge burner. Very nice! Thank you. I will be using this video to build my forge burner.
Thanks Mike! The Burner works Awesome! I'm going to relign my forge. I only have hard fire brick and easily reached 1900F. A couple layers of Inswool, cast-o-lite over that and finished off with ITC100 I think will bring this burner to full potential. Thanks again. Can't thank you enough.
So I have been rebuilding an old Mankel double atmospheric using the bells and your design inspiration. The thing I am doing differently is to eliminate the tapped plug electrode holder by threading the inside of the rethreaded 1/4x6 nipple at the bottom end.This streamlines the airflow around the part there,rather than mostly plugging up the hole. Sure wish I had a lathe. I make do by making extra parts and choosing the best.
not into forging but have an interest in your forge for heat treating of machine work. On my list of to does. I can see a need. great job on the in depth explanation of the build. the BEST
Near enough same as l made few months ago but mine all welded up, thing l struggled with was not having a lathe to get it all perfectly central, got I right tho by using water connected so could get the jet of water centred, but yea your's is very good.
I've watched this video several times, I agree I like your arrangement about the best. I'm wondering if you would be willing to do an update video with a written list of parts? I'd also love to take a look at your forge... I understand you had a class that you did that you were going to video and put it up on your channel?
Brady McPhail thanks! I'm in the middle of another batch of 12! I do have several videos in planning, including an updated forge burner, and the belt grinders that I recently started marketing. I'm a one man retired Army veteran, so it's hard to keep up with the channel, but I have some new content in the works!
Looks like a wonderful burner...very professional, but not really something most DYI builders can do unless they have a metal workshop in their garage.
I have to say I have the green with a couple other people that has watched your video this is by far the best burner set up that I have seen I got some burners that I built but they are nowhere in comparison close to being as good as yours I don’t have a C&C machine so I can do most of the stuff that you’ve done wondering if do you sell the pieces that that is impossible to be made by certain people like myself because I don’t have that type of material so I’ll be more than happy to buy them and put together new burners, Do you have a website that you sell these pieces
What size die did you use to thread the 1/4 x 4.5 nipple? 1/4 NPS (straight pipe thread), ran it out the bottom of a 1/4 NPT or 1/2-20? (FYI 1/4 pipe thread is 0.54 od x 18 tpi at the wide end)
Peter Wilson just to clarify, 1/4-18 NPS for the outside. The ends are the only part you need a 1/4-18 npt so you get the taper, that's what makes the proper seal, the tapered threads. The outside die for the choke mount could theoretically be whatever size you want that fits the diameter of the nipple as it's main purpose is to hold the pipe nipple in place and move the choke up & down. Sorry for the confusion on the - 20 pitch thread reference, that was a typo, I use only - 18 pitch dies. Mike
I'm really struggling with what direction to go in. I've seen both your style and a forced air build. It seems to me that as far as heat goes, both builds would be more than adequate for my needs but that the forced are more propane efficient. Am I wrong in that thought? My forge is going to be on the smaller side. Inside dimensions about 8" wide, 8" tall, 12-16" deep using refractory brick or board. Excellent build by the way! Thank you for your ideas.
This is an extremely helpful video! I don't really have access to a metal lathe, so are all the lathing steps crucial to the build? will it run forge welding temp if the mig tip isn't perfectly centered and the threads aren't removed?
Hi Very nice job! My question: Does the flare fitting at the burner outlet (flame end inside forge chamber) have to installed after the burner is installed in the forge case? I did not get a good look at the forge itself and from the video I did see (Big forge running) it looked like the flare had to b put on after installing the burner.Thanks!!
Hi MikeI have built one of these and have been struggling on getting it to perform. I don't think the problems are design issues but thought I would try and get some idea as to troubleshooting. The problem that I am having is it just isn't producing a robust flame and am not sure why. I have tried pressures from 10 psi to 40 and while higher pressure is better it still isn't what I would think it is capable of. two questions: where in the unit should the end of the tip be located? (how far in) and also some idea of gas pressures to be used for "optimal " output. Any other suggestions GREATLY appreciated.Many thanks for a fine build !
Austin Wolfe not really, I've toyed around with several possibilities, but they all involve a lathe or mill, so far this seems to be the easiest most cost efficient way to do it, at least for me. I've been getting great feedback from all the folks who've ordered, so they are proven in use!
Awesome detail! Where did you find a lock-nut with pipe threads? Also, rather than running the die down the length of the nipple, did you consider using 1/4" NPS lamp tube which has that thread pitch?
Hi mike. Great video! Question... what do you use to seal the pressurized sections? I was thinking of using a pipe dope. Do you figure that would hold up to any heat the orifice and other gas delivery parts might see? Also, what would you charge for one of those nice stainless ends you make? I'd love to get one.
john mcculloch If you check out my other videos you can see the burners in action! I sell these for $90 each shipped anywhere in the US. If you'd like to order, you can email me at oldsarge@gmail.com and I'll give you ordering info. Thanks!
I built a similar burner. I'm having trouble with increased fuel pressure blowing out my flame. I'm also having the same problem when I open the air flow. Any ideas? Thanks
Love this design! What is that reducer called you use for the flair that's is threaded/ weld? I can't seem to find them online. Also I was curious roughly what that measurement is between the reducer bell and that bracket you made to hold that 1/4 pipe
Hi there! I bought a gameco burner from alec steele and i am loving it. The only problem is that i cant get it on a high enough temeprature. Any tips like ideal propane pressure or something?
scott 27 you should have bought mine! Lol! Just kidding, you might try disassembling it and inspecting it to make sure no tape or Sealer is anywhere near the nozzle. Reassemble it and you can adjust the position of the nozzle inside the reducer until you get a good flame. Also make sure you're using a proper high pressure regulator. Good luck!
Hi Mike, I'm building a burner very similar to yours and have been fighting running a die down the 1/4" pipe nipple. It should have been obvious since it's tapered but I don't have much pipe threading experience. I came across your discussion about using a 1/4-18 NPS for the outside and a 1/4--18 NPT for the tapered ends. Won't running a 1/4-18 NPS damage the existing tapper on the nipple? I've already tapped my chokes with the 1/4-18 NPT as well. After buying the tapered tap and die now I'm looking for a source on the NPS tap and die. Trying to build on s budget, looks like NPS taps and dies are harder to locate and pretty costly. Any idea on finding fully threaded nipples I could just add tapered threads to? Did you do a video on the threading of the nipples? Did you tap the choke and threaded bracket with NPS threads as well? Thanks in advance. Hope my chokes are still usable.
Steve S. You must have really torqued on that nipple! The straight die doesn't interfere with the original taper, because, well, it's tapered! Lol! Your choke may be too "sloppy" on the nipple after using the tapered die. If you want to save a bunch of time and money I'll sell you a nipple that's already threaded, and uses a new nozzle system I came up with. I'll also include a. 030 mig tip as well. The new one is much cleaner and works great! If you'd like to order one I'll sell it to you for $15 shipped. Pm me and I'll get the particulars from you! Mike
Mike G -Thanks for the quick reply and generous offer, however I'm in too deep now to let this 1/4" pipe nipple win. Here's where I'm a bit confused, the nipple measures about 542 thousands and generally a NPT tapered die would cut threads smaller on the end and get wider where the threads stop. From looking at a NPS chart it looks like straight 1/4-18 thread's major diameter ranges between 526 - 517 thousands. So........by running a 1/4-18 NPS die over the larger tapered pipe thread wouldn't I be taking too much material off the tapered end thus destroying the taper. Sorry about spelling out thousands but the text wouldn't except my decimal. Not sure if this is a personal message, new to RUclips.
martin and shan Moldovan Not really, I have a die that I use on my hydraulic press to form them. You can use a piece of flat bar to make one just as easily. You can also order a burner from me if you'd like to! I've changed a few things in the design which makes the burner even better!
Storey Steven thanks for the kind words and interest in the burners! I'm not sure if npt and bpt are the same, but you could certainly replicate the burner using imperial threaded fittings! The flare is something that I tig weld together from stainless steel, so that may be more of a challenge depending on the equipment you have access to! Mike
RFAM05 I get them locally at an industrial supply store. I'm thinking about selling just the flairs so folks have the option to use a stainless steel flair.... Would you be interested in something like that if it were available?
Mike G, I've been watching a lot of videos online and really like your design. If you start to sell those stainless steel flairs would you let us know? I would be interested.
I replaced the steel weld on fitting with a stainless steel part, so the flair is now 100% stainless steel. It's a 3 piece design that I tig weld together. Pricing just the flair isn't something I've considered, but I think I might be able to do something with it.... Considering the material and labor involved, I'd have to charge $20 plus shipping for it to pay for itself. If you think it's something you'd like to order let me know., and thanks so much for your interest! BTW, I'm working on a new video for the burners, since I've upgraded the design a bit!
I would be interested in purchasing a couple of the flares. I want to try and build the rest of the burner though. What's the best way to go about purchasing these flares?
Nicco Deamus the top ends up approximately at the junction of nipple to the reducer. The nice thing about this design is that when I do the tuning I can move tip tip in and out of the bore to get tge best burn!
Thanks Mike. I have coincidentally built very similar burners to your design, I found your channel trying to find out how to tune the burners. In fact my whole forge and burner set up is almost identical to yours (without the precision). I'd add a photo if I knew how....but the burners seem to burn slightly differently and I was wondering why. No change after making the tip heights the same level, so I'm now thinking that one of the tips is more off angle than the other. Have you experimented with adding a static fan blade at the air intake under the choke to create a mixing vortex? I am going to try that to see what happens
Nicco Deamus I haven't tried that, but it is extremely important that the mig tip is aligned down the pipe nipple. If you are running 2 burners it makes a bit of a difference where the tee is, and also to run a good gas regulator. Good luck on your build!
Jaret Olson the reducer is actually black pipe, it's just Shiney from the machining I did on it! The flare is stainless steel which will stand up to the heat a bit better and no zinc to vaporize! I sell these for $90 shipped anywhere in the US!
Hey Mike, I have been trying to get a hold of you for a burner. Looks like a great design. get back to me when you can I would like to get a price on your most recent version. looks like 90 bucks, but I am wondering if you will sell it as a kit. Thanks, John
John McAuley Hey! Thanks for the interest, they are definitely available, and are always being improved on! Latest version has a much improved stainless steel flare and burner mount. That's correct, $90 shipped anywhere in the US, just PayPal to mike@abusyguy.com and please send as friend and family so they don't take any fees, and make sure you send your mailing address too! Thanks again, I appreciate all my customers and stand behind everything I make and sell! Mike
My kit question stands. I do not want to mess around with fittings and such. It has taken me a while to build this forge from scrap as it is. jmcaule@gmail.com is my email..I would like to discuss having you do all the work right up to the propane tank. Thanks!
blok229 you can't, at least that I know of, that's why I thread my own out of 1/4" id DOM tube.... I was threading pipe nipples but by the time they were threaded, the wall thickness was too thin, so I started making my own.
Mike G are you saying that the galvanized pipe is not what you currently use for threading? By the way....awesome job with this design. Longing for a metal lathe...lol. The list of my planned future adventures easily exceeds my energy level and life span. Great job sir!
Frank I'm in the process of making a new video that will show more aspects of the burner. My first few I kept separate due to the different forums I post to and the rules they have. Fear not! Here's a link to the burner in action! ruclips.net/video/1Df3E2HEL_I/видео.html
Seriously, can you make me a few of these? I will gladly pay for them. I need this kind of burner to build my forge. I"m banging my head against a wall trying to get a solid design. I don't have the equipment to do this.
Danny M if you subscribe and check out my other videos you can see them in action! I sell these for $90 each shipped to anywhere in the US. If you'd like to order two, you can send friends and family to mike@abusyguy.com These are the most adjustable burners you'll find, and they burn hot! Thanks!
Nezam Shalchi yes, they are $90 shipped anywhere in the US. I have another batch in the works that will be ready to ship Monday if you're interested! Thanks! Mike
naabtalschmied not necessarily... The flare is basically an area for the flame to establish itself. Some folks don't even use a flare, they open up an area in the kaowool or fire brick which provides that area of expansion for the flame. There's a few of us who make our burners with this design and they burn extremely well. Thanks!
Those are the nicest home built forge burners I've seen.
The best design I have seen in these days
Finally. Someone who explains the why's. Thank you for sharing
This is one of the best looking forge burners I have seen in a while.
I would buy a pair from you if I was in the market for a forge.
Very Nice. I Fabed my own using this video
I don't have a milling machine or lathe,, so I got crafty with that aspect
where I couldn't go was the burner flares ,, no tig,, only stick & mig welder
yours are really well made best ones ive seen
I’ve been looking at videos of making burners, this one looks the best so far, I like the way this guy does things. I’m going to have a go at making one following this video. Thank you Sir
I've watched quite a few videos on this subject and your's is the best one! No doubt. I appreciate your design, process and specific nature to this issue of propane forge burner. Very nice! Thank you. I will be using this video to build my forge burner.
Jeff Conti thanks for the kind words! If you have any questions during your build let me know, and good luck! I'll
Bravo, that looks much nicer than anything I've ever seen commercially available.
Thanks Mike! The Burner works Awesome! I'm going to relign my forge. I only have hard fire brick and easily reached 1900F. A couple layers of Inswool, cast-o-lite over that and finished off with ITC100 I think will bring this burner to full potential. Thanks again. Can't thank you enough.
These are the best design of burners, having a lathe to get everything central is a must.
Definitely the BEST PRO build!
And Video shoot!
THANK YOU!
I bought 2 of these. They work great. Worth every penny. They put out lots of heat and the flame can be adjusted easily. Worth twice what I paid.
Where did u bought these from?
Very professional build ... really appreciate your attention to detail.
So I have been rebuilding an old Mankel double atmospheric using the bells and your design inspiration. The thing I am doing differently is to eliminate the tapped plug electrode holder by threading the inside of the rethreaded 1/4x6 nipple at the bottom end.This streamlines the airflow around the part there,rather than mostly plugging up the hole. Sure wish I had a lathe. I make do by making extra parts and choosing the best.
not into forging but have an interest in your forge for heat treating of machine work. On my list of to does. I can see a need. great job on the in depth explanation of the build. the BEST
Near enough same as l made few months ago but mine all welded up, thing l struggled with was not having a lathe to get it all perfectly central, got I right tho by using water connected so could get the jet of water centred, but yea your's is very good.
Very nice design! Thanks for sharing!
Great vid! Cant wait till the build day.
Mike this is a magnificent build!.. Makes my build look like a toy - haha
Mike, if you thread the 1/4 pipe to bolt thread, how do you go back to pipe thread on the ends for mig cap and copper fitting to propane?
Buen trabajo y muy profesional mejor que otros que eh visto
Mike, what die did you use to thread the 1/4 pipe nipple?
I've watched this video several times, I agree I like your arrangement about the best. I'm wondering if you would be willing to do an update video with a written list of parts? I'd also love to take a look at your forge... I understand you had a class that you did that you were going to video and put it up on your channel?
Brady McPhail thanks! I'm in the middle of another batch of 12!
I do have several videos in planning, including an updated forge burner, and the belt grinders that I recently started marketing. I'm a one man retired Army veteran, so it's hard to keep up with the channel, but I have some new content in the works!
What size die are you using to thread the pipe nipple?
Looks like a wonderful burner...very professional, but not really something most DYI builders can do unless they have a metal workshop in their garage.
Great design what happens if I'm running it through 4" fire bricks will the burners still have to go through the other sied of the bricks
I have to say I have the green with a couple other people that has watched your video this is by far the best burner set up that I have seen I got some burners that I built but they are nowhere in comparison close to being as good as yours I don’t have a C&C machine so I can do most of the stuff that you’ve done wondering if do you sell the pieces that that is impossible to be made by certain people like myself because I don’t have that type of material so I’ll be more than happy to buy them and put together new burners, Do you have a website that you sell these pieces
What size die did you use to thread the 1/4 x 4.5 nipple? 1/4 NPS (straight pipe thread), ran it out the bottom of a 1/4 NPT or 1/2-20? (FYI 1/4 pipe thread is 0.54 od x 18 tpi at the wide end)
Rich Cizik yes, 1/4-20 and follow up with cleaning up the ends with 1/4 npt die so you get the proper seal. Works brilliant!
I assume it is a typo when switching back and forth between straight thread and NPT. Do you mean 1/2-20 and then clean up end with 1/4 NPT?
Sorry, my mistake! 1/4-18 NPS for the outside, and Npt for the ends....
Mike G so 1/4 -20 NPS On the outside and 1/4 - 18 NPT on the ends
Peter Wilson just to clarify, 1/4-18 NPS for the outside. The ends are the only part you need a 1/4-18 npt so you get the taper, that's what makes the proper seal, the tapered threads. The outside die for the choke mount could theoretically be whatever size you want that fits the diameter of the nipple as it's main purpose is to hold the pipe nipple in place and move the choke up & down. Sorry for the confusion on the - 20 pitch thread reference, that was a typo, I use only - 18 pitch dies.
Mike
I'm really struggling with what direction to go in. I've seen both your style and a forced air build. It seems to me that as far as heat goes, both builds would be more than adequate for my needs but that the forced are more propane efficient. Am I wrong in that thought? My forge is going to be on the smaller side. Inside dimensions about 8" wide, 8" tall, 12-16" deep using refractory brick or board. Excellent build by the way! Thank you for your ideas.
Deos this forge reach 1000 degree of temperature or not please answer me I'm waiting????
CAN YOU LIST THE PARTS PLEASE
This is an extremely helpful video! I don't really have access to a metal lathe, so are all the lathing steps crucial to the build? will it run forge welding temp if the mig tip isn't perfectly centered and the threads aren't removed?
Hi Very nice job! My question: Does the flare fitting at the burner outlet (flame end inside forge chamber) have to installed after the burner is installed in the forge case? I did not get a good look at the forge itself and from the video I did see (Big forge running) it looked like the flare had to b put on after installing the burner.Thanks!!
Hi MikeI have built one of these and have been struggling on getting it to perform. I don't think the problems are design issues but thought I would try and get some idea as to troubleshooting. The problem that I am having is it just isn't producing a robust flame and am not sure why. I have tried pressures from 10 psi to 40 and while higher pressure is better it still isn't what I would think it is capable of. two questions: where in the unit should the end of the tip be located? (how far in) and also some idea of gas pressures to be used for "optimal " output. Any other suggestions GREATLY appreciated.Many thanks for a fine build !
what is the mm of the drill you used to drill the hole for the .030 mig tip and the size tap for the mig tip insert? Thanks
Very nice looking burner. What did you use to weld the
stainless bit to the reducer bit?
Never use compression fittings on things that go boom😖 other than that GREAT BURNERS!
The die you used to thread the 1/4 4 inch pipe nipple was it a pipe threader?
Love the Vid very Professional Well Done any chance of a vid on the Jig you were resting the burners on Please. Thankyou.
Gary Hall thanks! The bending jig is a great addition to the shop, I'll be doing a video of it soon!
Thanks Mike it would be appreciated by many.
Would you be willing to make 3 of them for someone that dose not have the tools need to make them for them self if so what would you charge for them?
Epic burner! Have any idea how you would modify it so that you don't need a welder for assembly, for those that don't have a welder readily available?
Austin Wolfe not really, I've toyed around with several possibilities, but they all involve a lathe or mill, so far this seems to be the easiest most cost efficient way to do it, at least for me. I've been getting great feedback from all the folks who've ordered, so they are proven in use!
Awesome detail! Where did you find a lock-nut with pipe threads? Also, rather than running the die down the length of the nipple, did you consider using 1/4" NPS lamp tube which has that thread pitch?
Where should the end of the mig tip end up relative to the reduction ?
Lots of skills I just don't have the time to learn right now... Would you be willing to sell these pre-made?
Nice burner Mike, where is the video of the workshop you did?
Hi mike. Great video! Question... what do you use to seal the pressurized sections? I was thinking of using a pipe dope. Do you figure that would hold up to any heat the orifice and other gas delivery parts might see?
Also, what would you charge for one of those nice stainless ends you make? I'd love to get one.
Would I be needing a check value at all? I want to build lost wax oven using Fire brick and a burner underneath is it possible to use natural gas?
How much would 2 complete burners cost. Very much interested. I like the design and efficiency that you have built into these burners.
john mcculloch If you check out my other videos you can see the burners in action! I sell these for $90 each shipped anywhere in the US. If you'd like to order, you can email me at oldsarge@gmail.com and I'll give you ordering info. Thanks!
Mike G You wouldn't happen to know how much the shipping would cost, international to Australia?
Ficou muito bacana gostei 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍
Mike , how far down is the mig tip,in the bell?
Hi. About how many BTU/Hr does it produce?
Is there anyway to make it more efficient great build I like it
Can you do a video of the final part in burn mode?
I built a similar burner. I'm having trouble with increased fuel pressure blowing out my flame. I'm also having the same problem when I open the air flow. Any ideas? Thanks
Love this design! What is that reducer called you use for the flair that's is threaded/ weld? I can't seem to find them online. Also I was curious roughly what that measurement is between the reducer bell and that bracket you made to hold that 1/4 pipe
Any way that these could be made without a lathe?
Hi there! I bought a gameco burner from alec steele and i am loving it. The only problem is that i cant get it on a high enough temeprature. Any tips like ideal propane pressure or something?
scott 27 you should have bought mine! Lol! Just kidding, you might try disassembling it and inspecting it to make sure no tape or Sealer is anywhere near the nozzle. Reassemble it and you can adjust the position of the nozzle inside the reducer until you get a good flame. Also make sure you're using a proper high pressure regulator. Good luck!
Mike G thanks man. I will try
Hi Mike, I'm building a burner very similar to yours and have been fighting running a die down the 1/4" pipe nipple. It should have been obvious since it's tapered but I don't have much pipe threading experience.
I came across your discussion about using a 1/4-18 NPS for the outside and a 1/4--18 NPT for the tapered ends. Won't running a 1/4-18 NPS damage the existing tapper on the nipple? I've already tapped my chokes with the 1/4-18 NPT as well. After buying the tapered tap and die now I'm looking for a source on the NPS tap and die. Trying to build on s budget, looks like NPS taps and dies are harder to locate and pretty costly. Any idea on finding fully threaded nipples I could just add tapered threads to? Did you do a video on the threading of the nipples?
Did you tap the choke and threaded bracket with NPS threads as well?
Thanks in advance.
Hope my chokes are still usable.
Steve S. You must have really torqued on that nipple! The straight die doesn't interfere with the original taper, because, well, it's tapered! Lol! Your choke may be too "sloppy" on the nipple after using the tapered die.
If you want to save a bunch of time and money I'll sell you a nipple that's already threaded, and uses a new nozzle system I came up with. I'll also include a. 030 mig tip as well. The new one is much cleaner and works great!
If you'd like to order one I'll sell it to you for $15 shipped. Pm me and I'll get the particulars from you!
Mike
Mike G -Thanks for the quick reply and generous offer, however I'm in too deep now to let this 1/4" pipe nipple win. Here's where I'm a bit confused, the nipple measures about 542 thousands and generally a NPT tapered die would cut threads smaller on the end and get wider where the threads stop.
From looking at a NPS chart it looks like straight 1/4-18 thread's major diameter ranges between 526 - 517 thousands.
So........by running a 1/4-18 NPS die over the larger tapered pipe thread wouldn't I be taking too much material off the tapered end thus destroying the taper. Sorry about spelling out thousands but the text wouldn't except my decimal. Not sure if this is a personal message, new to RUclips.
@@steves.8747 You can also buy 1/4" NPS "lamp pipe." I think. That's what I'm about to try.
Looks good but not everyone has a lathe or milling machine.
Where did you find the 3/4 inch weld on fitting? Great looking burner
Clay Marbut they are on eBay!
Jeff Conti I am getting ready to build my first forge I was woundering do you have a diagram of the section that you bend to accept the bell reducer?
martin and shan Moldovan Not really, I have a die that I use on my hydraulic press to form them. You can use a piece of flat bar to make one just as easily. You can also order a burner from me if you'd like to! I've changed a few things in the design which makes the burner even better!
Hi, I'm in the UK, are the parts (American) the same spec as the UK.?
If so could you list what is needed please.?
Excellent vid by the way.
Storey Steven thanks for the kind words and interest in the burners! I'm not sure if npt and bpt are the same, but you could certainly replicate the burner using imperial threaded fittings! The flare is something that I tig weld together from stainless steel, so that may be more of a challenge depending on the equipment you have access to!
Mike
Can you please tell us where you got the weld on fitting for the flair?
A great looking burner!
Thank you for sharing
RFAM05 I get them locally at an industrial supply store. I'm thinking about selling just the flairs so folks have the option to use a stainless steel flair.... Would you be interested in something like that if it were available?
Mike G, I've been watching a lot of videos online and really like your design. If you start to sell those stainless steel flairs would you let us know? I would be interested.
I replaced the steel weld on fitting with a stainless steel part, so the flair is now 100% stainless steel. It's a 3 piece design that I tig weld together. Pricing just the flair isn't something I've considered, but I think I might be able to do something with it.... Considering the material and labor involved, I'd have to charge $20 plus shipping for it to pay for itself. If you think it's something you'd like to order let me know., and thanks so much for your interest! BTW, I'm working on a new video for the burners, since I've upgraded the design a bit!
I would be interested in purchasing a couple of the flares. I want to try and build the rest of the burner though. What's the best way to go about purchasing these flares?
Derrick Hoelscher, you can use PayPal and send to mike@abusyguy.com pm me for details!
Hi mike, where is the mig tip in relation to the 3/4" nipple barrel? above, level, below? if not level, how far off? thanks
Nicco Deamus the top ends up approximately at the junction of nipple to the reducer. The nice thing about this design is that when I do the tuning I can move tip tip in and out of the bore to get tge best burn!
Thanks Mike. I have coincidentally built very similar burners to your design, I found your channel trying to find out how to tune the burners. In fact my whole forge and burner set up is almost identical to yours (without the precision). I'd add a photo if I knew how....but the burners seem to burn slightly differently and I was wondering why. No change after making the tip heights the same level, so I'm now thinking that one of the tips is more off angle than the other.
Have you experimented with adding a static fan blade at the air intake under the choke to create a mixing vortex? I am going to try that to see what happens
Nicco Deamus I haven't tried that, but it is extremely important that the mig tip is aligned down the pipe nipple. If you are running 2 burners it makes a bit of a difference where the tee is, and also to run a good gas regulator. Good luck on your build!
is there a reason for going galvanized, to black iron to stainless? can the whole apparatus be black iron?
Jaret Olson the reducer is actually black pipe, it's just Shiney from the machining I did on it! The flare is stainless steel which will stand up to the heat a bit better and no zinc to vaporize! I sell these for $90 shipped anywhere in the US!
I was just wondering about the stainless. Did you tig weld that to the BI fitting?
Great burner! You have an online shop one of these could be ordered from?
very good, a performance test
Are you selling your burners?
Hola cuanto mide de largo el caño del medio
Loved this. Looking forward to the rest of the build.
What is the best way to contact you for more info?
Elmer Fox
You can email me at oldsarge@gmail.com If I get enough interest in the burners I may start offering them for sale.
Thanks for your interest!
How much would you sell one of your burners for?
Hey Mike, I have been trying to get a hold of you for a burner. Looks like a great design. get back to me when you can I would like to get a price on your most recent version. looks like 90 bucks, but I am wondering if you will sell it as a kit.
Thanks, John
John McAuley Hey! Thanks for the interest, they are definitely available, and are always being improved on! Latest version has a much improved stainless steel flare and burner mount.
That's correct, $90 shipped anywhere in the US, just PayPal to mike@abusyguy.com and please send as friend and family so they don't take any fees, and make sure you send your mailing address too!
Thanks again, I appreciate all my customers and stand behind everything I make and sell!
Mike
My kit question stands. I do not want to mess around with fittings and such. It has taken me a while to build this forge from scrap as it is. jmcaule@gmail.com is my email..I would like to discuss having you do all the work right up to the propane tank. Thanks!
John, email sent! Thanks!
Hi Mike, Have you considered selling these??
Hello Mike, I’m interested in having you make me two baffles. What is the best way to reach you? Thank you
Ramon
Where did you get the weld on fitting
blakkkatt9 www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/Weld-in-Tank-Flanges/3-4-NPT-FORGED-WELD-IN-TANK-FLANGE-9-7843-12.axd
Thanks 'good luck
I am very very interested in purchasing one. How can I get ahold of you?
Do you sell these burners
Where can I buy pipe nipples already completely threaded on the outside?
blok229 you can't, at least that I know of, that's why I thread my own out of 1/4" id DOM tube.... I was threading pipe nipples but by the time they were threaded, the wall thickness was too thin, so I started making my own.
Mike G are you saying that the galvanized pipe is not what you currently use for threading? By the way....awesome job with this design. Longing for a metal lathe...lol. The list of my planned future adventures easily exceeds my energy level and life span. Great job sir!
can i order from u sir?how much is it price?
You still sell these Mike?
Hi Mike
Do you sell the burners, if so I’m interested.
Jason, yes! I have a batch going now, but I won't have them ready for another week or so... You can email me at oldsarge@gmail.com for more details!
Good video sir but I which you let us see it working
Marco Jaimes you can see a video of them working here, and if you like this please think about subscribing!
ruclips.net/video/1Df3E2HEL_I/видео.html
Hey Mike do you have any made up now
Joe Morris yes! I have 3 left ready to ship!
Mike G how much are they have to get the money brother had the truck go down but I have some knifes going out soon too
Joe Morris they're $90 each shipped.... You can email me at oldsarge@gmail.com and I'll send you the details for ordering... Thanks!
Mike G cool thanks
1/4 inch pipe die?
Hi, could u build one of these for selling to someone like me?
Please change your brass compression fitting to a flair fitting. Compression fittings are for water only, not approved for any type of gas.
Should not use compression fittings on gas
hi mike.
I'm from Germany and nobody can or can build me such a forge burner.
is there any possibility to contact you privately?
muy bueno !!!!
Please please please make one for me 😁
Why don't you show it in action?
Frank I'm in the process of making a new video that will show more aspects of the burner. My first few I kept separate due to the different forums I post to and the rules they have. Fear not! Here's a link to the burner in action! ruclips.net/video/1Df3E2HEL_I/видео.html
Seriously, can you make me a few of these? I will gladly pay for them. I need this kind of burner to build my forge. I"m banging my head against a wall trying to get a solid design. I don't have the equipment to do this.
Danny M if you subscribe and check out my other videos you can see them in action! I sell these for $90 each shipped to anywhere in the US.
If you'd like to order two, you can send friends and family to mike@abusyguy.com
These are the most adjustable burners you'll find, and they burn hot!
Thanks!
Mike G got a link for purchase?
Danny M email me at oldsarge@gmail.com and I'll get you taken care of!
Ну, вот и поговорили... А где сам процесс?
Hi mike
Do you selling them
And how much ?
Thanks
Nezam Shalchi yes, they are $90 shipped anywhere in the US. I have another batch in the works that will be ready to ship Monday if you're interested!
Thanks!
Mike
@@MikeGIronCreek I am interested! Are you still selling them? I'd buy 2.
I wonder if you use a lathe
Michael Anello yes, lots of lathe work on the reducer and the nozzle assembly!
Nice. Looks like a Gameco burner.
MAGA !
Alsome design
محمد البصرة
Traducir en español
The flare have to be a cone....
naabtalschmied not necessarily... The flare is basically an area for the flame to establish itself. Some folks don't even use a flare, they open up an area in the kaowool or fire brick which provides that area of expansion for the flame. There's a few of us who make our burners with this design and they burn extremely well. Thanks!