SUPER SIMPLE PROPANE FORGE BURNER! - ELEMENTALMAKER
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- CLICK DESCRIPTION FOR PARTS LIST
Lets build a propane forge burner out of simple parts from the local big box store! This burner will be used in an upcoming video to melt a ton of aluminum cans, and to make Magnalium!
Parts list:
20PSI Propane Regulator - Here is the one I bought: amzn.to/2fsPgsn
Here's a cheap numbered drill bit set. I used a #53 but you may need to adjust slightly for your specific setup: amzn.to/2PqoN16
1/4" Ball Valve: amzn.to/2UgOdTI
3/8" FL x 1/4 MIP union (to adapt regulator output to 1/4"): amzn.to/2UfaxNx
1/4" Coupling: amzn.to/2UrxBJa
1 1/4" to 3/4" Reducer: amzn.to/3qk3gIu
1" to 3/4" reducer: amzn.to/3xE3EDP
8" section of 3/4" threaded pipe: amzn.to/3d38Mtz
1/4" x 2" nipple: amzn.to/3iYHE2D
1/4" square head plug: amzn.to/3qguI9L
Two 1/4" hose barbs: amzn.to/3xE3egJ
1/4" ID vinyl tubing (if you want to run your burner further away from your tank): amzn.to/3djxTZl
The above links are affiliate links which give the channel a small kickback to help fund projects.
Hope you guys enjoyed! It would a HUGE HELP to the channel if you save this link as your amazon homepage, so when you shop the channel gets a small kickback: goo.gl/x1ehvA Please consider helping to keep these videos coming. *Parts List Below*
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Parts list:
20PSI Propane Regulator - Here is the one I bought: amzn.to/2fsPgsn
Here's a cheap numbered drill bit set. I used a #53 but you may need to adjust slightly for your specific setup: amzn.to/2PqoN16
1/4" Ball Valve: amzn.to/2UgOdTI
3/8" FL x 1/4 MIP union (to adapt regulator output to 1/4"): amzn.to/2UfaxNx
1/4" Coupling: amzn.to/2UrxBJa
1 1/4" to 3/4" Reducer: amzn.to/3qk3gIu
1" to 3/4" reducer: amzn.to/3xE3EDP
8" section of 3/4" threaded pipe: amzn.to/3d38Mtz
1/4" x 2" nipple: amzn.to/3iYHE2D
1/4" square head plug: amzn.to/3qguI9L
Two 1/4" hose barbs: amzn.to/3xE3egJ
1/4" ID vinyl tubing (if you want to run your burner further away from your tank): amzn.to/3djxTZl
Jeff Bezos is smaug dont give him your business.
What modifications would be neccesary, in order to make this design into a "forced air" burner???
@@troysimon9933 with this system you don't need forced air. My furnace melts , Aluminium , Brass , bronze, steel the whole furnace turns white inside.
One more thing forced air erodes your crucibles faster.
Would it work to drill the nozzle with a 1/16 of an inch bit
My Grandpa taught me that the three holes in the drill chuck weren't there for convenience and that they were all three supposed to be used when tightening down on the drill bit. After that Drill bits didn't spin nearly as much. great video as always..
would not recomend using plastic tubing for a propane supply line,invest in a high pressure hose meant for propane,would be ugly if that plastic tubing melted from the heat while using that burner.nice burner design ,be safe..
I’ve heard that but it never had made a difference in my experience
Heard that once in the 15 machine shops I worked at. Don't believe it and only that one guy out of a 100 did it.
dont see it myself, all three tightening points are turning the exact same part in the chuck. could it make a difference where on that part you apply the turning force? idk. could be that just by taking the key out, putting it back in and tightening again youre making sure the tool is snug in the chuck, whether you use the same hole or a different one
Bugs Bunny thank you! I was going to comment the same thing!
Wow, great burner with out an air damper. I see this is 6 years old, I’ll check out the channel for updates and the furnace. I’m also making a pink tank and diy burner. I’m using 1” and 2”-1” cones for my Venturi. Planing on a welded U section on the back bell to hold a threaded section of pipe that will allow me to have a washer on a nut as an air damper.
I have been using that same set of Allens for 10+ years, nearly daily repairing medical equipment, they are great. The plastic holder still retains the drivers just fine.
Thanks for the upload!
I don't know why I waste so much time watching several videos made by several jokers before I end up watching yours. Someday I'll get smart and start at the finish. Your da man
Thanks for the kind words Rikki
This is the cleanest flame I've seen on burner videos. Great job.
I built this in no time .
Put a 30 lb. Reg on it .
Works like a charm.
Thanks !
This will go into a propane tank forge.
Just a note ... doesn't seem to need but 10 lbs of pressure , at least for mine .
So I made this exact burner, and tried to use it in my propane tank forge but it just seems like it wants more air. Can't seem to figure out how to get it more air either.
So, I didn't have an 8 inches pipe and I didn't have a #53 drill bit...I tried with a 10 inches and 1/16 orifice with a 0-30psi regulator...this is an inferno! I didn't even try full pressure haha.
Thanks for the tutorial, I had an idea of a venturi burner, but it required much more work.
As a mathematician I can tell you that drilling your set screw holes 120 degrees apart would have allowed redirection of the flame down the center line of the burner very to be exceptionally simple.I admire your desire to always use the most efficient methodology for your diy build projects. I always enjoy watching a talented experimentalist in his element. You are like seeing Michael Faraday reborn; without him there would not have been an Edison or Einstein, or a Niagara power station humming with Nicolai Tesla's AC alternators..... Mr. Elemental for a while I thought that you might have been an alchemist like Isaac Newton, but there is no turning lead to gold, alas..... In the meantime carry on with the brilliant production of video material. Bye from Central Texas, USA.
That would work, but you would need a very long drill bit and have to line it up on both sides. The way he did it lowers the tolerances.
I just test fired my burner based on your design last night. Worked perfectly. Now I can start building my gas forge. I made two changes, however. First was to the end cap. I drilled and tapped it to take a mig tip. The other was to the squared coupler. I used the drill press to put four dinples in where the screws that hold the burner tip assembly can seat themselves. My thinking was that this way I don't have to over tighten in order to prevent the assembly from shifting. Regardless, greatly appreciate you taking the time to research and make a video on the subject. Stay safe. Cheers.
Axel Heinz i like that four dimple idea to hold the gas input. I have used a coal forge for 30 years but now that i live in the woods, propane is easier to get than coal so I am building a new propane forge.
@@beshkodiak My new problem is setting up an efficient ventilation system. On my second test of the forge I set off the CO detector and then the wife (that was scarier). Hope to be using the forge soon. Good luck, Besh.
I've watched a bunch of these videos and I found that yours was easiest. Definitely be using your design for a double burner. - the galvanized tip. Im not very fond of getting poisoned
Yep, that galvy has got to go.
Just dip it in muratic acid and in seconds the coating is GONE
@@lx2077bob26 or just leave it on vinegar overnight, lots cheaper
One of the best and not too much clutter , will definitely use this idea
I guess this is a popular and much used design. I've seen dozens of videos through the years that are all almost identical starting with TKOR back in 2016. Great video with everything explained step by step, just like your other videos. As long as you keep making these cool build videos I'll keep watching and sharing.
Thank you. Yes this is called a Reil burner. Very popular style coined after the man who designed them originally
I really appreciate the content, super informative. I'm new to forging/blacksmithing. I'm going to give this a try. The one thing I wish you would have clarified is the process of the propane end of the burner. I'm kinda lost on the configuration. Thanks again man.
Loved the video! I have made several torches to pre-heat pipe before welding and I always just took an grease zerk and filed the end off, then removed the ball and spring.
Do what? I can't picture which kind of grease fitting?
John Gaudi A zerk is a standard grease fitting! Kind of like the proper name for the thing you inflate car tires through is a Schrader Valve! I love to call it a Schrader valve in general conversation because it gives the false impression that I know much about everything! Ha!
Great design, awesome instructional video. I have already made my burners but im happy to see they are essentially identical. I will say though, you need to be careful if that 1" to 3/4" reducer you're using as an expansion area is galvanized. Get that hot enough and it will release some seriously nasty fumes that will make you feel like death for several days depending on level of inhalation. Metal fume fever.
Nice video with the exception your internal flare needs to be black pipe and NOT galvanized. Zinc poisoning can kill you. The galvanized coupler on the back doesn't matter it's not directly exposed to the flame. I know you said you'd probably only use it outside but still, many who watch this wouldn't/don't know that. Stay safe everyone, and be informed.
Very good point Jay. If RUclips still would allow annotations I would make note of that in the video.
Jay Cee good sound advice! Care to check mine out? ruclips.net/video/t9OlRHBh_Tw/видео.html
The amount of zing on the flare will not kill you. As a precaution set it in a wood fire outside for about 20 minutes and the zinc will burn off.
Lmao. After the first burn the tiny quantity of zinc will burn off. The threat of zinc poisioning is insignificant compared to the fumes that will come from what is being melted or heated lol
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever#Treatment
I would not be worried about such a small amount ....
I made this following your instructions but used a 1/2 cap, 1.5 inch to 1 inch reducer coupling, 1 inch pipe and a 1.5mm hole for the orifice with a 10 pound regulator and it worked very well! Thank you for your contributions to the DIY community! I was just about to give up on making my own burner after my old one with the same regulator failed to produce a blue flame. I think my problem was the amount of airflow in the old system that reused a burner from a furnace with a 1" coupling welded on. I still ordered the new regulator because I want to see how hot I can make it but overall a wild success! Thank you again!
I loved this video - Thanks for the info. I used your plan for making a forge burner but had to use a 30 psi propane regulator to make it work. I live at 8500 ft elevation so I assume thats why. Again thanks!
Excellent video, very thorough.... The only recommendation I have (constructive criticism) is to mention why you staggered the holes drilled (10:20) for the set screws.
its so you can adjust the direction of the nossle. i did the same thing just helps getting everything centred
Love the design (it should be noted that galvanization should not be anywhere near the fire).
Thanks! And yes zinc and fire generally dont go together. In this case it's all the hardware store had, and it's such an insignificant amount you would need to be huffing it LOL
GBEZE
Just soak it in vinegar and then brush off the zinc.
I built this exactly like he showed on the video. It works great! This bad boy puts out A LOT of heat!! Now I just need to make the forge to put it in. Thanks for the great video!
Awesome! Glad its working great for you Daniel!
Hey man, just want to thank you for this video. I have never done anything like this before but I followed your instructions and...OH MY!!! My initial test was incredible. No need to change anything, working just like you said. Sounds like a hot air balloon and my neighbours are getting nervous. lol. THANKS MAN!!!
Glad to hear it Tom 👍 stay safe and enjoy!
what size bit did you use
@@conquerant8804 30 thou
I have found that when drilling soft metals it is much better to grind the cutting surface of the bit to a - 5 to 10 degree angle as to the face you will avoid the catching or grabbing effect at the end of your drill as it punches through. What is happening is as you go through the end of your cut the face angle vs the cut angle are too inclined and the softer metals tend to let the drill dig in too quickly. If you reduce the angle of attack it will not tend to pull in as the surface begins to punch through the last portion of your cut therefore reducing the likelihood of your tool ceasing at the end of the punch. Good vid and thanks for filling me in on the foundry. keep it up.
Ah, yes, the German standard of holding force; guten tight
My favorite standard as well!
I thought that "gutentight" was German for "virgin?"...LOL!
@@TrojanHorse1959 Ha!
What if your guten free? How tight do you get it then?
it is not a German word..aim German..
I've been doing propane for 38 years and you did well. I'd change the galvanized fitting because the heat will cause the zinc to give if toxic fumes. Another thing would be to change the ball-cock valve to a needle valve. That will give you incredible control. Amazing how lucky you were to hit the right office size to the air intake as this is fixed and not adjustable. Again for a DIY project a well done pipe burner.
Donald Parlett jr I appreciate the kind words Donald! I've since dipped the Galvanized part in muriatic acid to strip the zinc away, and then coated in header paint. It works pretty damn well!
I appreciate you, you were so straight forward even I can make one, off to the hardware store.
Made one the other day, used a number 54 drill bit. With a 20psi regulator it rips. Flame is about 12" long and hot as hell. Thanks for the video and parts list, cheers 🍻
That's how we got metric and SAE sizes in our vehicles "I'll use metric since I have some lying around."
Oh I know all about that. I used to have a Land Rover and it was anyone's guess what manner of bolt had been used.
Just finished making a modified version of this. Instead of buying the regulator and other propane fittings, i bought a $35 basic weed burner and cut the flare off the end. Comes with a 10 foot hose, dial valve and squeeze control. Just file the edges and slightly enlarge the tip hole for better flow. Great video tho!
i ain't livin' yet bro... need that gold plated Allen wrench in my life
That reducer IS cast iron, that's why it has flashing on the sides. Learned something new from the comments, didn't know that using all 3 sides to tighten the Chuck stops the bit from spinning in the Chuck. Thanks to all you commenters for that tip. But how do you stop it in a Chuck with the hand grips like most battery powered drills?
Little bit of motor oil in a squirt can does wonders when drilling...
The final build is bad-ass, though. Great work
SparksFly vd40 ;)
He did say a little KY jelly would do the trick 😊
@@robertidenya1432 saving that for the spare nipple ;-)
@@japudjuha hehehe
I'm going to build mine just like this. No mig tip, no threaded damper, just wide open using a 1/16th jet orfice.
Great work!
Very nice burner You have built here.
However, you should not use the Teflon tape in the BLUE package, it is for liquid, like water.
They make Teflon tape especially for gas pipe with a YELLOW outer ring.
Be aware, be safe.
Thats not true at all. You can use blue ptfe tape for gas. No problems. If anything skip over the ptfe tape and use dope.
Colour usually determines thickness. Check approvals for your jurisdiction. But as Josh said. Use the dope man. I dont know anyone who uses tape for gas or oil.
@@sliderdrago8189 in my jurisdiction, once the pipe hits a certain size, you use both. I thinks it's after 1 1/2 inch.
Seriously folks remember the build is an occasional use forge burner outside or in a shop. I wouldn't worry about what teflon tape to use unless I was hooking up a stove, furnace or water heater in the house.
Don't need any of that.. its low pressure!
Thanks to your video i made this single torch for my foundry and a 2 burner torch for my forge.
I have limited experience, but it looks to me that videos like this almost always show the burner burning beautifully in the open air. They rarely show how the burner performs in an enclosed furnace without additional air to support the flame. That is the question. Does the burner draw enough air for a strong and efficient flame in an enclosed furnace?
It does
Just a suggestion, when a drill bit is in a chuck that is keyed One must tighten the chuck in all 3 holes where the key fits in, to help prevent the bits spinning, I always used to tighten just the one, caused hurry through all my work, but then someone (a know it all) told me to eliminate drill bit spin do them all. Only a suggestion. I do enjoy your videos, keep em coming brother Thanks ah! Andrew T
I actually learned something thank you for the information most informative
I’ve watched at least 15 of these on how to make a burner, and I think this one has been the most simplest and comprehensive covering all the unknowns. So after months of trying to decide on the right burner today I started buying the parts, though I AM curious why so many people use the welding tips drilled out yet this one works just fine with a quarter inch plug drilled out with a “60k bit” Which by the way seems to be about 2.65 mm. Hard to find locally but Amazon did have it for about eight dollars in tungsten. Thanks for making it sensible and doable. The flame seems to look right for the square forge I’ll soon weld up. I hope the lack of a Venturi doesn’t impair.
It is a mistake to hold a object in your fingers/hand when drilling. I have seen so many accidents caused by holding with fingers/hand.
Lana yea I agree. I drilled into my finger by holding it in my hand too close. Had to get stitches wasn’t fun
He also states never touch a spinning chuck.... Then proceeds to stop a spinning chuck by hand twice...
Well, I started my foundry build and of all the burner designs I looked at, yours is the one I went with. Fired it up and it works fantastic. Now I just need to finish building the foundry itself and I'm all good to go. Thanks
Nice! Glad it was useful for you!
Hey, great video!. I'm just wondering how hot this burner is able to get. Cheers.
Welding gas regulators work great if you have one already, and fuel host to pipe thread fittings are cheap.
Buy hardware online if you're not in a hurry. I keep bench stocks of hardware for the same or less than buying one piece at a time. If you want more durable hose welding gas hose (and all sorts of fittings) are available at your local welding supply and online. Stainless pipe and fittings are so inexpensive I often use them just because rust offends me, and I use anti-seize on all threaded joints to ensure I can unscrew them if I later want to change something. Teftape works too.
What the diamètre you dril the square head plug please?
Thank you tributary House Ltd😉
Try tighting all the chuck keyways and that will help hold the drill bit better.
5:17. Thank you for filing correctly.
Great video and very straightforward. I just built mine and couldn't be happier
Nice job.
I would like to make one suggestion. Use a cordless drill to tap your holes. Generally speaking, people break less taps using a cordless than they do when tapping by hand.
64t120r thanks for the tip! Oddly enough the only time I've ever broken taps was with a drill LOL. I'm bass akwards though, so that might be why.
Well . . . go break some. That is funny. I have to say, very good technique then. We get more broken taps when people do it by hand. Either way, I'll have to look through your videos and see what other goodies you have.
Try tapping with your Drill Press. Drill hole, remove drill, insert tap. Everything is lined up. Turn and feed by hand or..... Get Tap Spinning, turn off power and feed down. Use to do it a lot in the machine shop for Quick and Dirty Jobs.
David Dedrick some day I'll rack up the balls to do some power tapping on my drill press. I do it on my cnc mill, but I know there isn't any flex there, where as my drill press isn't super rigid, despite being "Rigid" brand.
But.... Think of making a Video of trying the process. Scrap length of Aluminum and say a 1/4-20 tap. Not really necessary to keep everything locked down super tight. When you drilled out the Brass Plug you let it float a bit. In tapping that "float" is o.k. Just keep downward pressure and with no power you can stop the chuck by hand it you need to. Still have to back it out by hand but much faster than hand tapping both ways. In joy!
Almost perfect! If you used a dye on the 2" nipple and extended the threads you could cut a piece of metal drill and tap it to fit those threads and then you will have an air control valve! Or get a nipple with longer threads .
Minute 8:07 YEAH! SHAMELESS KY PLUG!! LOVEIT!
Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum KY and plugs usually go together in another way butt I'm not quite sure how to break it to you.
ElementalMaker that’s cool, I’m not judging you, you’re into what you’re into. You don’t need to explain it to me!
Having some fun when showing laymen how to make a homemade torch makes it entertaining.. I learned from this, Thank you
Thank you very much Francesco
When drilling, tighten your chuck in two places or more... lessen the likelihood of the bit loosening.
Yep, tighten all three.
And use cutting oil
so use to seeing the other channels taking a thousand measurements to make sure its center glad to see im not the only one eyeballing things
For everyone worried about the galvanized coupler. IT'S BEHIND THE FLAME. therefore it's not burning
I like the burner very simple and effective. If i put two burners i will need 2 regulators or just one in the main line
You should be okay with just one regulator.
It cuts to commercial right when you're lighting it
"And then he died"
Run a very fine tap in the drill head jaws to make grips and it helps alot with worn jaws
I believe "Blueblock" for fitting joints as opposed to teflon tape.
Or the yellow tape
Wow the pin hope makes all the difference with this thing. I have seen many make this and never achieve this hot or pure of a burn.
Can use a MIG welder tip instead of drilling-out that tiny hole in that pipe-nipple cap.
Scott Fain yes
What size, .025?
YesDeere13 .060 would be the same as his. I'm sure .045 would work, you could use a torch tip file set to widen the hole.
Thanks for the video. Very instructive. I do have a couple of questions if you don’t mind answering.1. How long will a 20# propane tank run using this burner?2. Is there any value in being able to control air flow too? Or enhance it?3. Is there some reference you would recommend to getting a deeper understanding on why this works as well as it appears to? Right now it all seems like a black art and would like to understand the science behind it.
How hot is this burner? You think it would be sufficient to power a gas forge on its own? (able to reach forge weld temps fairly quickly) A lot of guys use two burners, but I am wondering if it is necessary.
Jake Makes mine is hot enough for a forge check it out!
ruclips.net/video/t9OlRHBh_Tw/видео.html
You can check lp gas orifice charts on Google for btu and pressure. Run mine at 22psi and get 250000 btu
Jc Polston ruclips.net/video/t9OlRHBh_Tw/видео.html
Actually these things work good i work AS a Metall builder\Knife maker in a little shop (2 men) and we got those propan torches Mount in diy furnaces made Form gas bootles ! Its more than enough for blacksmiting hardening and melting brass silber copper and so on
in the correct envireonment, this temp flame can be used to get to welding temp, however the refractory materials and forge shape have to be pretty efficient. i suggest a dual set up of this, by using the 30psi regulator and adding a tee for a second burner, you wont need as long to get steel to welding temp with two, and it could pretty handily liquify the steel in an efficient forge/ foundry
I like the burner but I really hope you secured the gas line in with a hose rated for combustible material as well as clamping it on at minimum.
You say to not touch a "spinning chuck" but you touch it everytime to stop it!!!
bob sunderland do way I say not what I do LOL
Do as I say not as I do 😆😆😆😆😆
@@ElementalMaker Old hands or professional always touch the chuck we know what we are doing through years of experience and mistakes.
Good day mate what size is the hole in the plug head? Thanks
Not bad. Unfortunately you cannot run this type of burner with forced induction. I used a tee and brought my propane into the side of the tee and used a .6mm mig tip for a nozzle. Super efficient and runs way longer on way less gas. No brass needed in my setup either. Everyone copies Majestic or Diamondback forges. Those need about 30 psi of propane to get up to forge welding temperature, mine achieves the same temp at 6 psi. I run mine at 3 psi for forging. Also...as stated, zinc will kill you. BBQ regulators have enough psi....but are low flow regulators and will not work. Get one from Suburban Propane or a Propane supply outfit.
What are you using to provide the forced induction?
This little blower motor works great!
www.zoro.com/dayton-blower-75-cfm-115v-045a-3016-rpm-1tdp3/i/G2510164/feature-product?KW2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI18a3qIbQ1wIVlddkCh3AlwXwEAAYAyAAEgKU1_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
This is the burner I made.
facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1794002967556385.1073741831.1692028454420504&type=1&l=5fb7f4a34f
Studio 68 the FB link you posted isn't working for me. Do you have a video anywhere that shows your set up?
Studio 68 would have link to seen your burner, but I dont do that BS facebook ch!t no more....
They do make quarter in couplings/fittings that are square
"So many nipples, unbelievable" :D
Great video mate.
And not just because the nipples tho.
i made one with random 2inch stainless tube I had lying around from customers car exhausts and some air fittings I had. cant say it burns as cleanly as yours but it certainly puts out some heat. i also soldered a 0.8mm mig welding tip into the barb fitting for the nozzle seems to work the best
That "cheap steel" is in fact ductile iron or malleable cast iron. You can tell by the chips when you are drilling it. Steel will spiral, even with a dull bit. Cast will give a granular chip just like the ones you got. Home Depot doesn't normally carry steel fittings as they cost more and few if any would ever know the difference.
A better way to mount your burner gas jet might been to have used a 1 1/4" pipe plug with a hole drilled in the centre big enough for your gas jet to go through. Since the pipe plug has a 4 sided boss cast onto it you just drill and tap one hole to retain your gas nozzle. To get your air flow just drill 4 or 5 suitable holes through the plug around the boss. Much stronger and less likely to fall apart.
Norman May no one cares smartass
You can also tell it's cast be the mold marks on the side.
You do know steel can be cast, just because something has casting marks doesn't mean it's not steel. The chips or spirals is accurate.
My thoughts on drilling in galvanized fittings.The zinc in the galvanizing is soft and grabs the drill.Try drilling lead, its terrible. If you put the drill bit too far into the chuck its hard were the jaws close on it,they are hopefully hard as well,so it the drill will slip.Keep the drill out a bit so the chucks hard jaws grip the soft end of the drill.The reason for using all three holes in the chuck is because to work, the chuck jaws and the scroll ring are a sloppy fit ,this is to allow it to turn freely. Just things I were told when a boy.Of course as a fifteen year old I knew every thing.
Why do you sound like AvE :D
Nice video, will by using this for my build. Only thing is to be careful with galvanized steel used in heating components. Those parts shouldn't get too hot here, but if they do they can release toxic fumes. Best to de-galvanize first just to be safe.
I am watching your video for the last time before I go to buy the parts. I am excited and your instruction is easy to follow and I can't wait for MY results....thanks again....Great stuff here
I thought for a second that I play AVE vid:D
I didn't believe it wasn't him until I tried pitch correction and couldn't get a perfect voice mach.
Very simple and easily attainable design. Saved me a bunch of time designing and scavenging the parts stores!
Bs6.0pstroke_ 28 glad it was helpful for you! Thanks for checking out my channel!
hehehehehehe he said "nipple" hehehehehehehe
It seems K Y gelly is the ticket.
Save yourself a headache and watch the whole video and do exactly what he does. Really good video
Watching you work is painful.
We've been spoiled by watching AvE and This Old Tony. Lol
Machinist nightmare. but it worked.
Probably painful for him too...
Haha.....someone is gonna be miss digits soon...and NO I don't know how to make sandwiches...haha
Hi. And old machinist buddy of mine showed me how to tighten a chuck that never spins free. Every chuck has three key holes. Tighten each hole in a row, hard. It will not lose its grip on the bit.
That I trick I always use now! It definitely helps tremendously. I've only had one bit catch since using that method.
Unless you're using a high-end Jacob's Chuck you have 3 Chuck key holes, 3 chuck teeth. Use all 3 when tightening on a drill bit, you'll get a much better distribution of force and less slippage.
I've watch multiple design for a forge burner, this is by far the best design. thank you for sharing.
HYDROGENTEK I appreciate the kind words! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Very cool. I just made one like yours but with a 5 psi regulator from a turkey fryer (I’ll get a bigger one, but I had it on hand) and it actually works well. The flame it puts out is about 2/3-3/4 what yours does. It should be enough for my small forge.
Why is there no air flow adjustment?
Good instructions, as a long time machinist I recommend Wiha Allen wrenches, but , Bondhus are a decent 2nd to them.
You didn't stop by the BBQ aisle at the Homeless Despot? Propane hose and valves. Could also hit up the pressure washer section and take a look at the nozzles available.
Nice one! Only one problem with this design is that you can't regulate the flow of air, just the gas. Dunno if it would matter though but I thought it would be nice to be able to control both :)
Regulate the flow of air is nesessary, otherwise it's only the toy)
I’m curious about how much propane usage you get from this. I appreciate the tutorial and added an air regulator on the jet portion to be able to get a better control on the air flow through the reducer (just a piece of 16 g steel with the corners folded over and a hole drilled in the center with a small slot cut in it and a spiraled wire around the jet to twist open and closed for specific air flow control. But even without the air regulator, it burns through propane at an alarming rate. Would be interested in shooting around a few ideas with you.
Great video I've watched a few videos now on this subject. They all have made it so complicated. Yours however right to the point and easy to follow. So thanks.
Thanks Chris! Glad you found it informative!
Probably a obvious comment....but 3/8 flare is the standard for propane stuffs. 3/8 flare MPT to 1/4 MPT works if you prefer not to use 1/4 flex lines and barbs. I'm in the process so I'll report effectiveness tomorrow.
Overall, helpful video. One thing I would do differently though is to use a black reducer instead of the galvanized reducer for stabilizing the flame. Galvanized metal should never be exposed to that much heat because toxic fumes will be produced. The 1/4" coupler is probably safe, because it's in an area that most likely won't get hot enough for the toxic fumes, but a black or brass coupler would work too. Overall, thanks for the video and info!
Yes it can be toxic but that's a small amount and it will burn off in initial uses
Just out of curiosity, do you happen to know what the btu of this burner build is and approximately how many lbs per hour does it use?
You are correct, if you are using a Jacobs chuck.
This content is so good, been binge watching @ElementalMaker for the past week!
Very nice video Mate. Thanks for that. One of the Best Step by Step descriptions right here. The burner System is very good and Works like you said
I built one from the plans, works great, I have the stuff here to build a second one, hopefully I can get started on it soon!
I built this, and it works great, except I built a 2 burner system. I used a Mr heater high pressure regulator. It gives 20 PSI, and it's more than enough to run both burners. So I would assume the one you used would also be plenty for a 2 burner system.
Everyone knows that "Wiha" last 10 X longer and are of a better quality that your cheaper set of bondhus.
Wiha makes quality tools I love there screwdrivers . . .
I loved your build it was a great cheap assembly of a good heat treating flame !!
That's funny I've had the opposite experience in tool longevity, bondhus being my favorite. Glad you enjoyed!
Menards was cheaper for the parts. I sort of did my own thing, but I used yours and a few of the other guys until I made my own, turned out nice. I did a double burner instead of the single. Thank you!
Nice, wish we had menards around here. Stuck with Lowes or home depot. Luckily still a few Ace hardwares around too which have some hard to find parts
Now need to do a giant "garage heater" version! Would be awesome to see what you'd come up with