My son and I are getting our shop set up, making what we can. Your encouragment and instructional information has been very helpful, love your channel.
Nice job building the burner. It should have a 0.035" mig tip trimmed back about 1/2 way across the intake port on the T. If you want to use a 0.030" mig tip use a 3/4" x 3/4" T. Frosty
My son and I work together as well in construction. Unfortunately his hobbies are automotive in general and mine are knife making, sharpening and forging. I’ll have to go it alone as for my interests. Thanks for all your tutorials because they help me immensely.
Good video. I will build it. Not advisable to use tape on flare threads, though. If the flare fitting leaks, gas will still leak out above the flare itself. And the tape may compromise the flare union while the fitting is being tightened.
I build something very similar two years ago. I created my own tips with a piece of copper tubing with a brass end cap with a 0.8mm hole drilled into its center soldered on to it. works great!
thank you! this video has to be the easiest one by far!! Me and one of my boys built a forge last night out of fire brick-gonna build this burner and see what happens
Appreciate that praise, sir. I've seen some guys do duel burners, but I don't currently have the need. I later converted my forge to forced air since I feel it gave me more overall control. And the forced air burner is more than enough for the size forge I have. Glad you enjoyed this one. Cheers man.
Over the past month or so I’ve been getting into some very simple knife forging and making some stuff for the house like bird-feeder hangers using a blowtorch powered furnace filed out of two fire bricks. Definitely going to use this burner and the simple forge design from the essential craftsman to upgrade as soon as I can get a decent anvil that’s not the 15 pound harbor freight one I found and have been using
Sounds great for controlling heat treatment BIG THANKS I'm also need to forge welding as I'm building wood carving tools. QUESTION ? Can I slip this in place for heat treatment, then remove and place a hotter burner anytime convenient for my needs?
You get a sub for your drill press tapping tip. Great video mate. I think ill be building a different style, but some great tips and techniques. Thankyou. I hope the channel is doing well.
I cheated. Sigh....I was trying to work out how to integrate a slide choke and I wanted a rear feed. After watching many different peoples designs.... I ended up buying a DFC from devil forge and i will copy that with bits and bobs. Trial and error is a learning curve, but time is important. I wont buy a forge though! I swear ill build it!! Now to find a lonely beer keg....
I'm looking to make a biogas burner! Once I get my homestead feed a biogas generator into a filter/storage system. Use for kitchen burner and pyrolizaiton of plastic into diesel.
Hi i have build the same burner and it seems to work better with a 3/4 to 1" fitting on the end my forge is big it 370x290x300 so i am going to try 2 burners thanks for your video on the burner.
Yes I am I've built the forge but have yet to get the pipe to make the burner a little lost on it that's why I watched your video I wish I could just purchase one
@@RedBeardOps Thank you very much for the reply I'll check out the sight and purchase one I'm sure I'll be sure to drop your name as to where I got their info and recommendation from thanks again for your time.
I would love to know everything about this small forge. The one I built isn’t getting near enough heat. Dave keeps telling me to hook up my weed torch to my mini forge. He might be right but you seem to have it down to a science. I just wanna forge to heat treat my 1084 since I cannot afford an oven.
Depending on how much time and effort you're going to put into it you may want to buy a forge. ALTAS FORGE has an excellent knife forge for $285. Would be perfect for your needs. www.atlasknife.com/product/atlas-mini-forge-v2-stainless/ IF you want to build a little forge for heat treating you can get a piece of stove pipe or any piece of steel tubing that is around 8'' in diameter. Then you can go "High Temperature Tools & Refractory's website" to order Kaowool. Line your pipe with 2 layers of 1'' kaowool then coat the wool with satanite. Then build one of the venturi burners like I did here and you're off to the races. Use hard firebrick as the doors. For more information you can search bladefourms for forge builds here : cse.google.com/cse?cx=012217165931761871935:iqyc7cbzhci
Great video. Having no knowledge of propane fittings I was scratching my head trying to understand Frosty's pdf, so glad I found this video. Any recommendations on hoses for connecting the propane tank to this burner?
I like the simplicity of the build. The fact you listed the parts needed, makes me owe you a beer. One question. The way it is currently setup, running a higher psi than 5. Is the possibility there to use this exact burner in a furnace for casting? I've seen this build, atleast similarly done. The way you talk, makes me slightly hesitant to use it in a furnace
@@RedBeardOps Appreciate the info. Looking at upgrading my furnace. 1500 will definitely melt aluminum. If you were running that at a lower psi then I believe it is possible to hit temps around 2100 which is what I'd need for casting copper affectively. Thanks for replying. Keep making videos. Look forward to seeing more.
Thanks for the great and informative video. I love your channel and find it very inspirational. I just finished my first knife from a kit. I do want to eventually build my own forge just for heat treating purposes. Can you tell me more about the muffle pipe, or is there another video on your channel where you talk about using it? Thanks again for the great video.
Hey Jon, The muffle pipe is just a piece of 2x2 square tubing that I welded a cap on to. Cap isn't needed though. The point is just to shield the blade from direct flame. This helps get a more even heat on the blade. It's not a necessary item though.
Anyone looking for the frosty-t PDF just put the link (given in the description), into the wayback machine. The current URL is dead but the PDF can be aquired through wayback.
Love how straightforward this build is. don't have the tap for the MIG tip. But I have seen a few builds that use a brass cap (instead of a MIG tip), with a 1/32" hole drilled into the center of the cap for the gas. What do you think of that approach?
Hey Joe, I've never tried it, but if the sizing of the hole is similar to the mig tip and the distance into the T is the same; it should work just as good. Cheers man!
@@RedBeardOps I tried the end cap and it worked, but my flame was pretty raggedy. Tried the mig time and much much better. Sill have some tuning to do. But a night and day difference
@@joewhite4564 Nice, good to hear. Maybe it has something to do with the length of the hole being longer in the mig tip than if you just popped a short hole in a cap. A longer restriction. Who knows, glad it's working for you!
Looks like you have a length of square tubing inside the forge , does this aid in heating the blade more evenly such as keeping the flame away from the blade . I haven’t seen this before but it appears to possibly work that way .
This is true. The only way to tune this one is adjusting the gas pressure and adjusting the depth of the mig tip. I think one with adjustable air flow would be more easily adjustable.
Remember NPTF & NPT fittings do not share the same sizing chart as other fittings and although they screw together it should be noted that the fitting won’t be leak proof unless sealants or o-rings are used. A person could drive themselves insane if they don’t understand how to size and type a fitting -especially gas fittings. What’s 1/4’ for nptf isn’t 1/4’ for another fitting. For this application everything should be NPTF.
If you're interested in a temperture control system, I'd be happy to offer some insight. I've worked in the industrial combustion business for 15 years and am currently unemployed. I need something to do!
I have always wondered if on this type burner if 2 all thread nipples and 2 full port ball valves could be used as an adjustable choke but I do know to use black iron gas pipe and fittings instead of galvanized also the merchant coupling or the bell reducer should keep the threaded end which is thin from burning up
The needle valve will help you control the flow of propane into the MIG, but I was running it without the needle valve and using the valve on the regulator alone.
Thanks for making this video. I have made the burner. Now I need to hook it up. Would you have a video or some information on what kind of setup a smith would need as far as a make and model of a regulator and gas line for a propane forge to go along with the frosty t-burner in this video. I have a small propane tank; 20-30# that I would like to use for this.
Hi. Awesome video. I guess my only question is what is the purpose of the merchant coupling if it doesn't hold the flame? Is it to creat a tighter seal with the forge body or is it a flair? If it's a flair is it needed inside the forge itself as the forge will hold the flame? New to this and just getting my head around it. Cheers. :)
Hey Bart, good question. To me the merchant coupling was intended to provide a smooth surface to interface with the forge body. As a stand alone it will not hold the flame well. When in the forge (if the forge is designed to an appropriate size for the burner size) the flame holder is not necessary since the forge will hold the flame. That being said, there is nothing wrong with using the merchant coupling or flair in combination with the forge.
@@RedBeardOps awesome thank you. I guess I was kind of close to the mark. I'm in the process of building my first forge. Going simple to begin to see if I'm going to stick with it. Your video really helped me figure out that part of it. Cheers. :)
So natural gas works out pretty well for blown burners since they can run at lower psi. You would be hard pressed to run a venturi forged with natural gas (I'm pretty sure). From a danger standpoint, I feel pretty safe with propane. I have an ESD built into my system as well in case of power failure. When it comes to blacksmithing, knifemaking, bladesmithing, and farriering - propane is the standard for gas forges. Cheers mate! Thanks for the comment.
i appreciate that you put put a complete parts list in the description, but they only ship in th US. Is there any option for getting these exact same measurements in europe?
I've never build a forge with two venturi burners, however, I've seen a ton of forges built this way! I'm sure it would work, but it may take some tuning. You'd probably want to incorporate a needle valve somewhere on each burner so that you can play with the gas rate. But like I said, I've never done this before.
the fact that people are selling burners that are JUST LIKE THIS ONE for like $60-$120 online when i can just run down to my own local hardware store and make this for less than that is mind blowing
My parts our on their way! I've got a lil question for you tho. Do you think a burner like this could get steel hot enough to forge weld in forge thats significantly smaller than the one in the video? thank you for the build walkthrough and have a great day!
I'm making a list of these parts and going to home depot, I took an old freon tank I'm making my first little forge i haven't made the hole for the burner yet can't decide if I should go from the top of side
I've watched plenty of burner making videos and when I saw this one, I was like, "great, I need another burner and it's really cheap and looks easy to build". Then I look up the parts... $18 just for the swivel fitting in my country (Australia) haha 🤦♂️
@@RedBeardOps nah mate, it's what we call the "Australia tax". We're used to it. You could still make a burner a lot cheaper than they cost assembled though. So I still may use your guide to build one ;-)
Pretty good. I’ll use some ideas from this video. However, there should be a ball valve in there somewhere so that you can shut off the gas at the burner, then shut off the propane tank. Simply shutting off the propane tank can cause a flame to travel through the hose and into the tank. Then boom. You don’t want to be liable for something bad.
Propane is not self oxidizing. It NEEDS oxygen to burn. The flame cant travel up the supply lines because there is no oxygen in the line. Using oxygen or acetylene as a fuel has a high risk and requires flame arrestors. Even though you are trying to be helpful by sharing safety information, its not a good idea unless you understand the science behind it. Misinformation causes knee jerk reactions by the uninformed. I.E. Hollywood says AR-15s shoot 1000 rounds of heat seeking bullets per second, so California bans anything even remotely gun shaped.
This isn't true. Propane needs oxygen. It doesn't flashback like that. The only major worry people should have with their setups is that their hoses don't get hot. If the hose were to melt open, it would basically create a fire jet that steadily burns itself through the hose and heads for the propane tank. The regulator would still face such a sudden drop in pressure that the regulator would kick over and drop the gas down to less then a tenth of a PSI, and the flame wouldn't be sustained. That's why regulators are on propane hoses in the first place.
For sure man. You should be able to do this with just and hand drill. Just be as carful as you can to drill a straight hole and get your tap started straight.
I'm sure you could. I've seen some set ups like the one you're describing. I, however, have not made one in that configuration. The last forge I made out of a propane tank was forced air. If you can manage a forced air burner build... I tend to like those better.
What are your thoughts on adding a valved flow controlling shop vac to increase the heat? or will this get a small melting foundry hot enough to melt copper/aluminum?
If you want more heat and have a blower, I'd advise a forced air burner. Like this one - ruclips.net/video/WtCWbl-Q5fo/видео.html It will be hot enough to do anything you'd want to do.
Hey I made this burner but I'm having a problem with it making a bubbling noise and not a roar... I don't know how to fix this, I got everything you said except the regulator. I don't know, the forge is also pretty small
Interesting, I'm not exactly sure what's going on. I think you'll need a regulator and gauge for sure to know what you're sending it. Please be safe with this... propane can be pretty dangerous.
Just make sure to remove the burner once you shut it off. otherwise you will get super hot gas going up the pipe and potentially melting your propane hose
that's the way I'm thinking to make my own burners, but I wanna make a dual burner for the forge, and toghether with a blower__ you think it can be possible with this model of burner??
@@RedBeardOps I am building a foundry. I build a forge already That works well but is way to small to smelt brass, copper and aluminum. Thanks for a great video.
@@CandSMINING I see. 10-4. Check out my forced air burner. I bet it can put out way more. ruclips.net/video/WtCWbl-Q5fo/видео.html - Glad you enjoyed it sir! Cheers
Red Beard Ops that’s alright, it was just awkward watching the video in the hardware store looking for the parts because I forgot to write it down. lol
@@valleycapitaladvisors Hello sir, by reducing the height of the mig tip it changes the location of the jet in the T. By changing the location of the tip it will affect how the jet stream of gas pulling in air. If I remember right, the more you shave the tip the further away from the tube it gets and the more air will be drawn in.
I’m wanting to make this for a five pound air tank forge I have, would just a single burner like this give enough heat just to do regular forging? I’m not wanting to do any forge welding with it, just want to be sure it will give me enough heat to do regular day to day forging
My main concern is the gas flowing back when the tank starts running low. So my question is how can I ensure this doesn't happen? Check valve and a regulator or either one of the two?
I know you mentioned the brass pc you were tapping into came from the manufacturer with the appropriate orifice for the the 1/4" x 28 tap. Is that orifice a 1/4" standard drill size for that tap. I followed a separate video that used a 5mm drill hole for a M6x1 tap and the threads did not match my miller mig tip. Thanks
@@ZainStore Well mine ended up working well without any modification to the mig tip or fitting. So the stock length may work for you as well. If your burner runs rich you can shave off a little bit of the mig tip (1/16'' at a time) and re-test. As you shave it back it should bring more air in. (If I remember right)
So the forge I just built was made from an old air compressor tank. it’s about 14” long ( about 1-1/2 fire bricks long) and about 12” across... I cut off the front end and welded a hinge to it to make a door, on the other end I cut a 3” tall x 5” wide hole so I can look inside if I’m using the forge with the front door shut without losing too much heat. I lined it with Kao wool, about 1” thick and laid two fire bricks down on the floor to lay my steel on. What sized burner should I use in it? I have something similar to the one in this video and at full blast I got flame shooting out of the door when it’s open...lol I think I need to somehow make the flame be more concentrated, I think it’s too wide as it is now, the nozzle is a 3/4” pipe nipple with a cone on the end that’s someplace between 1” and 1-1/4” . Your thoughts?
So mine is also an air tank, but I have 2 layers of 1'' wool which makes the ID ~ 6'' before the fire brick floor (I used 1'' fire bricks for the floor). This burner will work in my forge. If you want more power and more control, I'd suggest making a forced air burner.
Red Beard Ops I only have one layer of the one inch thick Kai wool blanket and two 1” fire bricks on the floor... seems to work well I also moved my burner so now it shoots straight down in the center of the forge so stead of from an angle like it was... it seems to be heating up the inside really well.
Im in the process of ordering the parts for this build, kinda difficult because I live in Europe. Is there a chance you can write the drill bit sizes because I'm trying to convert all of that to metric. Great video, thanks in advance
Hey darko, were you able to find all parts in EU. I am having a hard time. I am from the Netherlands. Hooe you have some tips. Or a list. Thanks in advance.
@@MEKZfpv I did manage do male a burner but because of lack of materials I had to improvise. I would like to send you some fotos and explain more but I don't know how to do that over RUclips.
Anyone looking to getting into bladesmithing!?
My son and I are getting our shop set up, making what we can. Your encouragment and instructional information has been very helpful, love your channel.
@@joeklerekoper4733 Thanks Joe! Glad to be of service! What a great endeavor to embark on with your son.
Getting ready to build a forge
Benjamin Romero really glad to hear it! I hope this burner build helped you out!
ive been collecting parts for making a forge and this is one of the things i need to get parts for.
the fact that you put an entire parts list in the description earns a like and subscribe along a well dont video.
sniperdgs hey man, glad you liked it!! Good luck with your build 👍
By far the best forge burner video yet!! Parts list, assembly instructions, link to original builder... ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
That is the simplest burner I've seen. Thanks for the video.
cody allen glad you liked it! It is super simple and pretty darn easy to make!
I built mine following your steps and material list... Never been so happy of seeing something work so amazingly... It roars like a dragon's breath..
Heck yeah man! thanks for your comment!
Nice job building the burner. It should have a 0.035" mig tip trimmed back about 1/2 way across the intake port on the T. If you want to use a 0.030" mig tip use a 3/4" x 3/4" T. Frosty
Thanks Frosty! Great design
My son and I work together as well in construction. Unfortunately his hobbies are automotive in general and mine are knife making, sharpening and forging. I’ll have to go it alone as for my interests. Thanks for all your tutorials because they help me immensely.
Good video. I will build it. Not advisable to use tape on flare threads, though. If the flare fitting leaks, gas will still leak out above the flare itself. And the tape may compromise the flare union while the fitting is being tightened.
Thanks for the info!
I build something very similar two years ago. I created my own tips with a piece of copper tubing with a brass end cap with a 0.8mm hole drilled into its center soldered on to it. works great!
Very nice!
thank you! this video has to be the easiest one by far!! Me and one of my boys built a forge last night out of fire brick-gonna build this burner and see what happens
HEck yeah, sounds like a good time. Make sure to test your fitting with soapy water for leaks. Good luck!
Just made this yesterday with instructions from this video
Nice!
Thanks for the design brother. That mig tip to brass nipple pointer really helped me out. Much love
Good luck with your build, Tree Bear!
A friend and I built one. It's BETTER than forced air if done correctly (Not too difficult)!!!
Awesome! Thanks for your comment!
very nice! thank you oh and I have that same kobalt screwdriver....love that thing. cheers!
Right on!
By far the best forging burner video out there. Question. Can you do another video modifying this to a “dual” burner. Thanks in advance.
Appreciate that praise, sir. I've seen some guys do duel burners, but I don't currently have the need. I later converted my forge to forced air since I feel it gave me more overall control. And the forced air burner is more than enough for the size forge I have. Glad you enjoyed this one. Cheers man.
Your Video and parts list made building a forge burner totally accessible- excellent/professional presentation!
Awesome, thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Just got started with a Mapp torch. Already seeing why I need this
Good luck Levi!
@@RedBeardOps thanks brother.
Just made one of these for a forge I built, it works great, thanks!
Great to hear!
simplest one iv seen so far , thumbs up.
Glad you liked it! Make sure to soap test your lines for leaks before starting it up.
@@RedBeardOps im still working on the regulator & line, if you have an in line adjust valve whats with a high pressure regulator
@@spotlobac7694 I'm not sure I fully understand your question. I'm fairly sure my regulator is 30psi.
@@RedBeardOps sorry i thought you wouldnt need a regulator at all if you had an in line valve to adjust pressure / flame.
@@spotlobac7694 I see. I like (and think it's safer) to have a regulator close to the tank.
Nice clear instructions, nice video mate
Thanks Steve!
Over the past month or so I’ve been getting into some very simple knife forging and making some stuff for the house like bird-feeder hangers using a blowtorch powered furnace filed out of two fire bricks. Definitely going to use this burner and the simple forge design from the essential craftsman to upgrade as soon as I can get a decent anvil that’s not the 15 pound harbor freight one I found and have been using
Excellent man! Good luck with your builds!
Very well done. Thanks, brother.
Much appreciated! CHeers
Sounds great for controlling heat treatment BIG THANKS
I'm also need to forge welding as I'm building wood carving tools.
QUESTION ?
Can I slip this in place for heat treatment, then remove and place a hotter burner anytime convenient for my needs?
I don't see why not! May take some time and design to get the swap smooth though
You get a sub for your drill press tapping tip. Great video mate. I think ill be building a different style, but some great tips and techniques. Thankyou. I hope the channel is doing well.
Thank you very much! Glad you got something out of it!
I cheated. Sigh....I was trying to work out how to integrate a slide choke and I wanted a rear feed. After watching many different peoples designs.... I ended up buying a DFC from devil forge and i will copy that with bits and bobs. Trial and error is a learning curve, but time is important.
I wont buy a forge though! I swear ill build it!!
Now to find a lonely beer keg....
I am building burner for my pizza oven pretty much like yours but 3 of them in a row.
Nice!
I look forward to trying this out! I'm going to start the build of my first forge this week! Thank you!
Good luck!
Amazing! helpful information thanks heaps!
Glad you liked it sir! Cheers man, good luck with your build.
Great video, also the links and the recommendation to go to the Supply House was perfect
Glad it was helpful!
I'm probably gonna make two of em in a small forge for knives I'll let you know how it goes
Good luck with your build!
thanks man for a very informative video, keep up !!!👍😊
Anytime! Glad you liked it. I'll be making a video on how to build a blown burner coming up soon!
Gostei muito
Excelente vídeo
Show parabéns 👏👏👏👏👏
THanks!
I'm looking to make a biogas burner! Once I get my homestead feed a biogas generator into a filter/storage system. Use for kitchen burner and pyrolizaiton of plastic into diesel.
Very cool!
Great explanation. Thanks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks!
Hi
i have build the same burner and it seems to work better with a 3/4 to 1" fitting on the end my
forge is big it 370x290x300 so i am going to try 2 burners
thanks for your video on the burner.
Cheers man! Thanks for watching. Hope the duel burners work out for you! Lots of power!
Super helpful!!!
Thanks Zack! Glad you got something out of this one! Have a great weekend.
Yes I am I've built the forge but have yet to get the pipe to make the burner a little lost on it that's why I watched your video I wish I could just purchase one
Hey Guy, you can. Check out atlas forge, they have great stuff! They also sell burners. www.atlasknife.com/
@@RedBeardOps Thank you very much for the reply I'll check out the sight and purchase one I'm sure I'll be sure to drop your name as to where I got their info and recommendation from thanks again for your time.
I would love to know everything about this small forge. The one I built isn’t getting near enough heat. Dave keeps telling me to hook up my weed torch to my mini forge. He might be right but you seem to have it down to a science. I just wanna forge to heat treat my 1084 since I cannot afford an oven.
Depending on how much time and effort you're going to put into it you may want to buy a forge. ALTAS FORGE has an excellent knife forge for $285. Would be perfect for your needs. www.atlasknife.com/product/atlas-mini-forge-v2-stainless/ IF you want to build a little forge for heat treating you can get a piece of stove pipe or any piece of steel tubing that is around 8'' in diameter. Then you can go "High Temperature Tools & Refractory's website" to order Kaowool. Line your pipe with 2 layers of 1'' kaowool then coat the wool with satanite. Then build one of the venturi burners like I did here and you're off to the races. Use hard firebrick as the doors. For more information you can search bladefourms for forge builds here : cse.google.com/cse?cx=012217165931761871935:iqyc7cbzhci
just for info. no need the teflon tape for flare fitting. flare work differently than threaded pipe
Great video. Having no knowledge of propane fittings I was scratching my head trying to understand Frosty's pdf, so glad I found this video. Any recommendations on hoses for connecting the propane tank to this burner?
Glad it was helpful! I don't own this one myself... but it looks decent - Regulator and Gauge - amzn.to/3b9rZJG
You want a 30psi regulator and gauge
@@RedBeardOps Thanks much!
I like the simplicity of the build. The fact you listed the parts needed, makes me owe you a beer. One question. The way it is currently setup, running a higher psi than 5. Is the possibility there to use this exact burner in a furnace for casting? I've seen this build, atleast similarly done. The way you talk, makes me slightly hesitant to use it in a furnace
I'll be honest, I really don't know about using it in a furnace.
@@RedBeardOps What temps are you required to reach for heat treating? 2000F?
@@thebro5820 around 1500 for 1084
@@RedBeardOps Appreciate the info. Looking at upgrading my furnace. 1500 will definitely melt aluminum. If you were running that at a lower psi then I believe it is possible to hit temps around 2100 which is what I'd need for casting copper affectively. Thanks for replying. Keep making videos. Look forward to seeing more.
Thanks for the great and informative video. I love your channel and find it very inspirational. I just finished my first knife from a kit. I do want to eventually build my own forge just for heat treating purposes. Can you tell me more about the muffle pipe, or is there another video on your channel where you talk about using it? Thanks again for the great video.
Hey Jon, The muffle pipe is just a piece of 2x2 square tubing that I welded a cap on to. Cap isn't needed though. The point is just to shield the blade from direct flame. This helps get a more even heat on the blade. It's not a necessary item though.
Anyone looking for the frosty-t PDF just put the link (given in the description), into the wayback machine. The current URL is dead but the PDF can be aquired through wayback.
Thanks Chris
Love how straightforward this build is. don't have the tap for the MIG tip. But I have seen a few builds that use a brass cap (instead of a MIG tip), with a 1/32" hole drilled into the center of the cap for the gas. What do you think of that approach?
Hey Joe, I've never tried it, but if the sizing of the hole is similar to the mig tip and the distance into the T is the same; it should work just as good. Cheers man!
@@RedBeardOps I tried the end cap and it worked, but my flame was pretty raggedy. Tried the mig time and much much better. Sill have some tuning to do. But a night and day difference
@@joewhite4564 Nice, good to hear. Maybe it has something to do with the length of the hole being longer in the mig tip than if you just popped a short hole in a cap. A longer restriction. Who knows, glad it's working for you!
all my MIG tips are .035 so hopefully they'll work.
Real good video
Thank you!
Looks like you have a length of square tubing inside the forge , does this aid in heating the blade more evenly such as keeping the flame away from the blade . I haven’t seen this before but it appears to possibly work that way .
Hey Randy, this is called a "muffle pipe". It just makes it easier to evenly heat the blade like you said. Very handy.
Some have a choke on the air feed, where as yrs is an open T that draws plenty air to the mix.
This is true. The only way to tune this one is adjusting the gas pressure and adjusting the depth of the mig tip. I think one with adjustable air flow would be more easily adjustable.
Remember NPTF & NPT fittings do not share the same sizing chart as other fittings and although they screw together it should be noted that the fitting won’t be leak proof unless sealants or o-rings are used.
A person could drive themselves insane if they don’t understand how to size and type a fitting -especially gas fittings. What’s 1/4’ for nptf isn’t 1/4’ for another fitting.
For this application everything should be NPTF.
Very confusing for sure...
If you're interested in a temperture control system, I'd be happy to offer some insight. I've worked in the industrial combustion business for 15 years and am currently unemployed. I need something to do!
I'm good for now, but thanks for the offer! Cheers sir
may have been said but dont use teflon tape or any other type of thread sealant on flare fittings if you will be building this
Since completing this project I have heard the same!
@@RedBeardOps wasnt meant disrespectfully so I am glad you didnt take it that way . Great project btw =)
@@prometheus7504 thank you! cheers sir
Another great video...what hose are you using to hook this up to the propane tank?
Airborne Mike I’m using an old propane line and regulator I’ve had since 2006. Can’t say I remember where it came from.
Prices have gone up in the couple years since you made this video. It’ll be about $40 at the end of 2021.
If you price the project in Bitcoin prices went down! ;) Cheers Derek
I have always wondered if on this type burner if 2 all thread nipples and 2 full port ball valves could be used as an adjustable choke but I do know to use black iron gas pipe and fittings instead of galvanized also the merchant coupling or the bell reducer should keep the threaded end which is thin from burning up
Man I don't know, but it could be worth a try for sure.
great looking build using mig tips. does that mean you don't have a needle valve on the regulator hose?
The needle valve will help you control the flow of propane into the MIG, but I was running it without the needle valve and using the valve on the regulator alone.
What is the diameter of 1/8 npt?
What is a mig tip thread tap?
I have some of that information in the video. Google will be your friend what what I don't have in there.
Thanks for making this video. I have made the burner. Now I need to hook it up. Would you have a video or some information on what kind of setup a smith would need as far as a make and model of a regulator and gas line for a propane forge to go along with the frosty t-burner in this video. I have a small propane tank; 20-30# that I would like to use for this.
I use these - Marshall Regulator - amzn.to/38UkPKN
Steel Braded Propane Hose - amzn.to/3z2sQYR
@@RedBeardOps thanks for the supply recommendations. We made the burner from this video. Looking forward to using it!
Hi.
Awesome video. I guess my only question is what is the purpose of the merchant coupling if it doesn't hold the flame? Is it to creat a tighter seal with the forge body or is it a flair? If it's a flair is it needed inside the forge itself as the forge will hold the flame?
New to this and just getting my head around it.
Cheers. :)
Hey Bart, good question. To me the merchant coupling was intended to provide a smooth surface to interface with the forge body. As a stand alone it will not hold the flame well. When in the forge (if the forge is designed to an appropriate size for the burner size) the flame holder is not necessary since the forge will hold the flame. That being said, there is nothing wrong with using the merchant coupling or flair in combination with the forge.
@@RedBeardOps awesome thank you. I guess I was kind of close to the mark. I'm in the process of building my first forge. Going simple to begin to see if I'm going to stick with it. Your video really helped me figure out that part of it. Cheers. :)
nice video what about running on natural gas? propane is very dangerous I worked natural gas company for 31 years!
So natural gas works out pretty well for blown burners since they can run at lower psi. You would be hard pressed to run a venturi forged with natural gas (I'm pretty sure). From a danger standpoint, I feel pretty safe with propane. I have an ESD built into my system as well in case of power failure. When it comes to blacksmithing, knifemaking, bladesmithing, and farriering - propane is the standard for gas forges. Cheers mate! Thanks for the comment.
@@RedBeardOps after the main reg nat gas house line can be 7"wc ( = 1/4 psi) unless your running elevated pressure 1psi to 5psi
i appreciate that you put put a complete parts list in the description, but they only ship in th US. Is there any option for getting these exact same measurements in europe?
Hey Arne, I must say I'm really not sure! Sorry about that!
you think the burner end could be after a 90 fitting? so a pipe can travel horizontally with a vertical 90 just at the end to shoot flame up?
I've never tried this, so really can't tell you.
Im just getting into forging and am making my dual burner forge out of a 30lb propane tank. How would you link 2 of these burners together?
I've never build a forge with two venturi burners, however, I've seen a ton of forges built this way! I'm sure it would work, but it may take some tuning. You'd probably want to incorporate a needle valve somewhere on each burner so that you can play with the gas rate. But like I said, I've never done this before.
I will try to make this into a double burner. Will be making pretty much 2 of these and connecting them together. Will most likely post it on IG.
If you're confused about how a 1/4 inch×28 nf hole is able to fit in a 1/8 inch×27 npt hole, you're not the only one!
LOL
the fact that people are selling burners that are JUST LIKE THIS ONE for like $60-$120 online when i can just run down to my own local hardware store and make this for less than that is mind blowing
I guess they don't want to deal with tapping... who knows! If you can make a knife you can make one of these for sure!
My parts our on their way! I've got a lil question for you tho. Do you think a burner like this could get steel hot enough to forge weld in forge thats significantly smaller than the one in the video? thank you for the build walkthrough and have a great day!
Yes sir, I think it can. Good luck with your build!
I'm making a list of these parts and going to home depot, I took an old freon tank I'm making my first little forge i haven't made the hole for the burner yet can't decide if I should go from the top of side
You want the burner to enter the forge ID @ a tangent. This will give your flame a swirl
@@RedBeardOps thank you for the tip, home depot didn't have everything I needed I'm gonna order the rest online thanks again 🤘
Step 1. Buy a mill. :-D Thanks! Honey! I'm using the credit card!!!
Lol! Don't tell her I gave you the idea please!
I've watched plenty of burner making videos and when I saw this one, I was like, "great, I need another burner and it's really cheap and looks easy to build". Then I look up the parts... $18 just for the swivel fitting in my country (Australia) haha 🤦♂️
Lol, sorry Ashda. Maybe it's inflation? lol
@@RedBeardOps nah mate, it's what we call the "Australia tax". We're used to it. You could still make a burner a lot cheaper than they cost assembled though. So I still may use your guide to build one ;-)
Pretty good. I’ll use some ideas from this video. However, there should be a ball valve in there somewhere so that you can shut off the gas at the burner, then shut off the propane tank. Simply shutting off the propane tank can cause a flame to travel through the hose and into the tank. Then boom. You don’t want to be liable for something bad.
A ball valve would be a good and useful addition. I normally shut it off at the regulator.
Propane is not self oxidizing. It NEEDS oxygen to burn. The flame cant travel up the supply lines because there is no oxygen in the line. Using oxygen or acetylene as a fuel has a high risk and requires flame arrestors.
Even though you are trying to be helpful by sharing safety information, its not a good idea unless you understand the science behind it. Misinformation causes knee jerk reactions by the uninformed. I.E. Hollywood says AR-15s shoot 1000 rounds of heat seeking bullets per second, so California bans anything even remotely gun shaped.
This isn't true. Propane needs oxygen. It doesn't flashback like that. The only major worry people should have with their setups is that their hoses don't get hot. If the hose were to melt open, it would basically create a fire jet that steadily burns itself through the hose and heads for the propane tank. The regulator would still face such a sudden drop in pressure that the regulator would kick over and drop the gas down to less then a tenth of a PSI, and the flame wouldn't be sustained. That's why regulators are on propane hoses in the first place.
Is the diagram still available? I tried the link but didn't see it. Maybe I missed it? Thanks, great video!
Sorry man, I was not able to find them and never downloaded it myself.
Could this idea work to build a powder coat oven obviously the oven doesn't need to reach forge temps
Unless you rig up a solenoid and PID I don't think you'd have the temperature control required.
I dont see anyone mention a check valve or flashback arrestors? No need for one?
Hey Richie, I've never seen those on a veturi forge burner before, but I bet an argument could be made
so... how do I make this without a drill press ?
I have a drill and an angle grinder will this work?
thanks
For sure man. You should be able to do this with just and hand drill. Just be as carful as you can to drill a straight hole and get your tap started straight.
Just starting out, so I apologize for the question. But, what is the purpose of checking the heat treatment with a magnet?
Hey Gary, this tutorial should help - ruclips.net/video/TBIiWwawKSY/видео.html
Would you be able to use two of these burners if building a 5 gallon propane tank forge?
I'm sure you could. I've seen some set ups like the one you're describing. I, however, have not made one in that configuration. The last forge I made out of a propane tank was forced air. If you can manage a forced air burner build... I tend to like those better.
@@RedBeardOps thank you so much for the response :) liked and subscribed
@@Acribus1 Thanks man! Here is my blown burner for reference - ruclips.net/video/WtCWbl-Q5fo/видео.html
Would this be hot enough for a small foundry? Would it get hotter if air was being blown into it as well?
Hey man, I really don't know for sure. no air needed, unless you're building a forced air bruner
What are your thoughts on adding a valved flow controlling shop vac to increase the heat? or will this get a small melting foundry hot enough to melt copper/aluminum?
If you want more heat and have a blower, I'd advise a forced air burner. Like this one - ruclips.net/video/WtCWbl-Q5fo/видео.html
It will be hot enough to do anything you'd want to do.
Hey I made this burner but I'm having a problem with it making a bubbling noise and not a roar... I don't know how to fix this, I got everything you said except the regulator. I don't know, the forge is also pretty small
Interesting, I'm not exactly sure what's going on. I think you'll need a regulator and gauge for sure to know what you're sending it. Please be safe with this... propane can be pretty dangerous.
Did you remove the galvanized coating by steel brush and grinding? Is that why T appears grinded all over?
Those are black iron fittings. No galvanization. Don't use galvanized pipe. Cheers
At 3:14mins in the video, what kind of clamps are you using?
I'm using these - Cheers - amzn.to/3ONMNqZ
Great video Red Beard!!
One question. Is it not dangerous when the pipe starts to get very hot?
How long can you have it on?
Thanks
Man I've run these for hours without issues. CHeers Miquel
Just make sure to remove the burner once you shut it off. otherwise you will get super hot gas going up the pipe and potentially melting your propane hose
that's the way I'm thinking to make my own burners, but I wanna make a dual burner for the forge, and toghether with a blower__
you think it can be possible with this model of burner??
Hey Vlad, a force aired system will not look like this one.
What tipe gas are you using I'm from South Africa and regulater
✅Propane Regulator and Hoses:
Marshall Regulator - amzn.to/38UkPKN
Steel Braded Propane Hose - amzn.to/3z2sQYR
Propane Tank Adapter - amzn.to/3YF7077
30psi Gauge - amzn.to/3YleQmN
Hola si puede vender uno así terminado gracias 🙂
¡Gracias! Ninguno a la venta en este momento
@@RedBeardOps gracias
Thanks for a great build. What is the max temp possible?
I'm not sure, but you could forge weld with it.
@@RedBeardOps I am building a foundry. I build a forge already That works well but is way to small to smelt brass, copper and aluminum. Thanks for a great video.
@@CandSMINING I see. 10-4. Check out my forced air burner. I bet it can put out way more. ruclips.net/video/WtCWbl-Q5fo/видео.html - Glad you enjoyed it sir! Cheers
@@RedBeardOps Thanks, I'll check it out. Stay safe.
Listing the tap sizes instead of a full kit would have been helpful. Otherwise great vid.
Glad you enjoyed the video! Sorry about that.. that's the kit I got for my shop.
Red Beard Ops that’s alright, it was just awkward watching the video in the hardware store looking for the parts because I forgot to write it down. lol
Rein Quest I get ya, makes sense. Good luck with your build! Be safe and spray your connections with soapy water to check for leaks 👍
Could you explain what you mean by adjust the length of the mig tip?
Yes sir, you can shave off some of the length of the tip by grinding it on the non-thread side. Either by hand with a file or on a belt grinder.
Red Beard. I’m built this burner now. What does shaving the mig tip do again? Thanks
@@valleycapitaladvisors Hello sir, by reducing the height of the mig tip it changes the location of the jet in the T. By changing the location of the tip it will affect how the jet stream of gas pulling in air. If I remember right, the more you shave the tip the further away from the tube it gets and the more air will be drawn in.
@@RedBeardOps finally the reason and why I need to move my tip back. Thanks
@@stankrieger3137 I demonstrated this process in my most recent forge build if you want another look at it.
I’m wanting to make this for a five pound air tank forge I have, would just a single burner like this give enough heat just to do regular forging? I’m not wanting to do any forge welding with it, just want to be sure it will give me enough heat to do regular day to day forging
I think so. I'm not 100% on the dimensions. Maybe two layers of kaowool would be in order.
My main concern is the gas flowing back when the tank starts running low. So my question is how can I ensure this doesn't happen? Check valve and a regulator or either one of the two?
Hey J, I don't know the best solution, but when my tank runs low the burner just dies out.
@@RedBeardOps thanks for getting back with me. I have a big torch and it takes forever to get to get the metal to temp lol
Would this be appropriately sized to work in a common helium balloon refill tank?
Hey man, I have no idea. Sorry about that.
Hi , would it burn with methane gas ?
I'm not sure, haven't tried it. Good luck with your project!
What did you weld on the tank to mount this burner?
I have a hole cut into my tank with a large coupling welded on at an angle. I threaded it to have set screws.
What is the MIG tip thread size , please explain
3:45
1/4-28NF
are all these parts necessary? or can I just get the gas through the mig tip and it will work?
Nope, just the way I did it
من فضلك اين تباع القطع الصغيره هل بمحلات متخصصه
يمكنك شرائها عبر الإنترنت من متاجر السباكة.
how well does this sear steak?
Very good question... no idea... lol
Where is the link to the frosty build
I think the original was broke... if you find it please let me know
How much heat does it produce? I'm building a small forge and i got firebricks that hold 1300 C°. Is that enough?
THat temp is fine. Make sure you're using soft bricks... they work wayyyyy better
I know you mentioned the brass pc you were tapping into came from the manufacturer with the appropriate orifice for the the 1/4" x 28 tap. Is that orifice a 1/4" standard drill size for that tap. I followed a separate video that used a 5mm drill hole for a M6x1 tap and the threads did not match my miller mig tip. Thanks
Thanks for the info Mark. Cheers
Great job bro! but I have small Q for u bro!
is there any standard length of flare pipe inside the tee?
are you talking about a standard length of the mig tip inside the tee?
@@RedBeardOps exactly bro
@@ZainStore Well mine ended up working well without any modification to the mig tip or fitting. So the stock length may work for you as well. If your burner runs rich you can shave off a little bit of the mig tip (1/16'' at a time) and re-test. As you shave it back it should bring more air in. (If I remember right)
I have already built the physical forge. Now collecting parts for the burner/s. I have only 1" to 1/2" atm. Will I need to get the 1"to3/4" instead?
I'm sure other sizes could work, this is just the sizes I know work.
So the forge I just built was made from an old air compressor tank. it’s about 14” long ( about 1-1/2 fire bricks long) and about 12” across... I cut off the front end and welded a hinge to it to make a door, on the other end I cut a 3” tall x 5” wide hole so I can look inside if I’m using the forge with the front door shut without losing too much heat. I lined it with Kao wool, about 1” thick and laid two fire bricks down on the floor to lay my steel on. What sized burner should I use in it? I have something similar to the one in this video and at full blast I got flame shooting out of the door when it’s open...lol I think I need to somehow make the flame be more concentrated, I think it’s too wide as it is now, the nozzle is a 3/4” pipe nipple with a cone on the end that’s someplace between 1” and 1-1/4” . Your thoughts?
So mine is also an air tank, but I have 2 layers of 1'' wool which makes the ID ~ 6'' before the fire brick floor (I used 1'' fire bricks for the floor). This burner will work in my forge. If you want more power and more control, I'd suggest making a forced air burner.
Red Beard Ops I only have one layer of the one inch thick Kai wool blanket and two 1” fire bricks on the floor... seems to work well I also moved my burner so now it shoots straight down in the center of the forge so stead of from an angle like it was... it seems to be heating up the inside really well.
Im in the process of ordering the parts for this build, kinda difficult because I live in Europe.
Is there a chance you can write the drill bit sizes because I'm trying to convert all of that to metric.
Great video, thanks in advance
Hey Darko, good luck with your build! Type "drill bit table" into google. Cheers.
Hey darko, were you able to find all parts in EU. I am having a hard time. I am from the Netherlands. Hooe you have some tips. Or a list. Thanks in advance.
@@MEKZfpv I did manage do male a burner but because of lack of materials I had to improvise.
I would like to send you some fotos and explain more but I don't know how to do that over RUclips.