@@dev-debug I wish there were a way to upload pictures but that orifice hole, like you said, is fairly large but rather than drilling a hole through (whatever that piece of metal was) that cap (?) where the fuel meets the air (right at the T - I have some ⅛"stainless steel tubing that has an orifice size of about 1/16" and I also have stainless tubing that is 1/16" with a I.D. of roughly 1/32". I just happened to notice that you can take ¼" stainless tubing and put a ⅛" piece very snugly into it, very solid fit and now the 1/16" stainless fits snugly into the ⅛" tubing.
KwazyWabbit I wish there were a way to upload pictures but that orifice hole, like you said, is fairly large but rather than drilling a hole through (whatever that piece of metal was) that cap (?) where the fuel meets the air (right at the T - I have some ⅛"stainless steel tubing that has an orifice size of about 1/16" and I also have stainless tubing that is 1/16" with a I.D. of roughly 1/32". I just happened to notice that you can take ¼" stainless tubing and put a ⅛" piece very snugly into it, very solid fit and now the 1/16" stainless fits snugly into the ⅛" tubing. Would this be the better option, if indeed there is a better or worse option?
This really helps! I`m a coatings formulation chemist. I was in a R&D meeting currently developing ultra high temperature coatings,that need testing well above 1500F. I built my own micro furnace, with fire bricks, in the lab, but the big propane burner would not exceed 700 F. I just came back from my meeting,and your tutorial was running. Could not have been better timing!!! I got the plumbing described on this video,and am on my way! Sincere thanks.
Those are some good looking flames you get. I've watched dozens of burner videos in the last couple of weeks but learned as much from yours as any, much of it new to me. Thank you.
That was the best burner I've ever seen. And you know what's the best? It was also the best video about a burner build. I think I can rebuild it, so thanks for that!
Roy I just made this burner for my forge! I was having a hard time getting my materials hot enough with my two burners I made and two I bought! So I saw this video and gave this a shot. What can I say, this thing will blast! It’s pretty loud to run but it’s worth the noise! I barely have to open the gas valve and before I was running two burners wide open and burning through all my gas fast. This was a great build you shared! Thanks so much for what you and your wife do to share the knowledge! I follow your every post and often build what you offer up! Well wishes to you and yours God bless! Ps. I wish I could add a picture lol
I looked at a lot of videos about gas burner and I wondered why they never put a screen on the flare like the industry does in their torches. You are the first that put one on and explain why! same for the elbow. and for the blower. I prepare a gas forge and I understand now that I MUST insert a blower in the sketch... Thank you very much, God bless you
Glad you made this video, because the forge I just built, wasn't producing the flame I needed, so I added air from compressor, but the nozzle sat along inside of coupler, next to orfice hole, and used a lot of electricity, so now I will reconstruct it like yours, using 12v blower from RV gas furnace, so it's still mobile.
This is a great video. I made this burner to heat a small forge made from bricks to heat steel rivets. This burner works great, gets the rivets really hot. Thanks for putting this video together.
Nicely done! I just got home from a 3 day raft trip and am catching up on your videos. It's similiar to my burner. A couple things different are... if you use a needle valve as well, then you don't need to drill an orface. Just neck your T down to 1/4 inch at the gas inlet. The needle valve will give you fine flow control. The other thing is.. is that a flare is only needed if used outside a burn chamber, or if your chamber is too large for for the burner. The diffuser (the SS cup) is a nice touch. This is the same principle as a ribbon burner uses by spreading/evening out the flame. Thanks for the video..
Wow 😳 this video is very educational and it's covers everything that I was wondering about. I just wanted to make a burner with foot cranking 2 belows as a Air supply for Chinese wok but this seems more than what I needed .but then it made me interested into forging metals . Thank you.
Thanks, very good explaining how it works. Most just show "do this", but you have explained how so now you can do slight changes to suit what you want or need with what you have to use. Very helpful.
Thank you very much! I'm making such a burner, your video is very detailed explain each step and matters needing attention, very big help to me, thanks again for your help to me!I am your fans from China。
Thanks for the design info! I made this without the elbow and it works fantastic! Doesn't require any further turbulence to create a good mixture. I found similar perforated screen instead of the Sink strainer and brazed it to the reducer that may have been why the elbow wasn't needed But what I did do was to add an extension CUP design to the nozzle about 2 inches which was the improvement I found Also I eliminated the air control valve and installed a dimmer switch to the power supply of the blower. This was better as it made the whole assembly lighter which I used for other applications.
Still good video. Like "G" you could get rid of that valve & partially cover the squirrel cage blower intake. If natural gas a different orifice & regulator. FYI: your air valve is a Globe Valve, not a Gate Valve (slower opening, straight flow).
This is neat. Very similar to a ghetto burner I threw together last weekend. I had a harbor freight weed burner that I took the burner tube off of, leaving just the gas feed tube (there's a needle valve built in to the handle). I went and bought a 1" 90° elbow and a 1" x 12" black iron nipple. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the outside of the elbow pointing straight down one side of it, the side which I thread the 12" pipe into, then I just sorta snug fit the gas feed end from the burner wand into that 3/8" hole, and attach an air supply hose, from a mattress inflator, to the other side of the elbow. It works perfectly, although I plan to add a better fitting for the gas supply because it is kinda dangerous as it is. Also the orifice in the gas tube is too big, so I'm gonna get a fitting to screw in a .030 mig tip into. I don't bother with a high pressure regulator, I just use the needle valve on the original weed burner wand for now. It really does work great. Complete combustion, outside of the burner tube (as long it's in the furnace, without a flare). Not counting the weed burner, which I already had, I spent $10 on the elbow and pipe nipple.
Just trying to watch all of your videos to get some ideas about a forge set up . Your burner is probably the best on I've seen so far , and let me tell you I've watched a lot of burner videos. Thanks again Roy for all you do. God bless you and keep on forging
Best explanation of burner design theory that I have seen! I think you could have more correctly referred to forced "air", rather than "oxygen". I was not sure if an O2 tank was going to be involved for a while... Thanks! Me, I just want to melt some scrap copper into an ingot or two, for cheap.
I followed this build usin similar sized parts, and it came out working great! Though I found that the burner worked better when using a slightly bigger drill bit.
great video! Very detailed and easy to understand. I bought the item list and brought it to a hardware store and they found everything with ease and assembly was simple as well. I cant wait to try it out, Thanks you!
Very nice tutorial,, I really appreciate those folks who take the time & effort to explain ,,reminds me of the 1970's when metal shop was still around,, thanks
thank's for sharing tis videdo. I have build several gas forges and burners but your design has been the best so far. made one yesterday It works fantastic and it's going to save me a lot of propane in the future.
I've just made a forced air burner similar to this one, but have yet to light it. This has been the best video I have found so far explaining the process and reasoning behind it. I would love to email you pictures of it before I light it to get I your advise / suggestions for any changes I should make.
I've built this exact same design except i used 3/4" pipe and have a mattress blower powering air. My forge is cylindrical inside being 9" wide by about 10" deep, insulated by 2" of Kaol wool, yet I can't get it to reach yellow hot temperatures without adding on a second burner (which is a venturi). Should I drill the gas orfice hole bigger?
Have you considered using an air hose from your compressor instead of an air pump? I just built mine and using my compressor it works great. Not to mention as long as you have a big enough compressor and tank it is a lot quieter.
Can't seem to find an answer for this in all the videos I've watched of burner builds. Would this forced air burner be hotter and more efficient than the typical straight pipe with a choke? It seems to me to be the case but I'm looking for confirmation. Best build video I've seen so far and I've watched dozens. I particularly appreciate the time/care you took and not to mention how well you articulated the whole process of the build. Well done and thank you very much!
+StriveFor Selflessness thank you for the great compliment! Yes this forced air burner can be hotter and more efficient than a typical atmospheric burner as you have a greater degree of control overpressure and air flow. Thank you for taking the time to watch hope this helps you with your question God bless
I don't think it's any hotter, but it's much more efficient. With an atmospheric burner, the force of the propane is what sucks the air in. You end up pushing out a ton of propane that escapes without ever burning. Because of the natural drag of the propane moving out of the burner, it's impossible to get enough air pulled in to burn all of the propane. At the end, he shows an ample flame with a crazy low amount of propane PSI. That shows just how little propane he uses to get the exact same amount of heat.
Absolutly hotter. Venturi burners are very low efficient and wasteful. You have to use 15 psi in a venturi to get even close to what a forced air burner will get with 2 to 5 psi
I had to go and check to see that you were still active my friend.I subscribed because I am building a metal shop similar to yours. I am impressed with the tools that you have amassed and use. my main goal is to make aluminum and then other castings for tooling and parts for obsolete equipment and engines in my small engine business as well my mobile welding . Thank you. It is such a cool build. That is so cool that you did HVAC in another life..lol
That’s brilliant and a n efficient burner. I’m currently using a straight Venturi burner which is very fuel thirsty and not as hot as this one. I’m going to have a go at building this one. Excellent video.. thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Hi, I've watched your video's and found them, for the most part, informative and helpful. I don't want to criticise but there are a few inaccuracies in this one which I feel need addressing. The valve you use to control air flow is a stop cock, not a gate valve. You can see clear through a gate valve when it's fully open. A stop cock is for water. The fittings are malleable iron, basically cast iron, not mild steel. They shouldn't be welded on anything structural but you're OK here. Finally, The light blue cone in the centre of the flame close to the nozzle is the coolest part, not hottest. It's hottest mid way between the cone end and the tip of the flame. It's still a splendid burner, I may make one myself soon. My coke forge is fine but takes too long to light and heat for a small job.Regards, Ian.
very nice thanks you. i often wondered why does the gas not create a flame inside the piping since it is already mixing with oxygen before it exits the nozzle ?
Christ Centered Ironworks I like this and i will try it out, thank's for sharing. The hottest part of the flame i think you will find is just at the tip of the inner cone, and you are using globe valve, not a gate valve. Happy new year!
Really nice build (despite the wonky air mattress blower). I would think the shop would be loud enough already and would sort some way of having that air come from outside the building, thinking a high speed duct fan cut into the wall.
The screen should be inside the bell reducer and works on the opposite principle of the coal miners Davy Lamp. The goal is to have the gas ignite outside the burner -- not in the inlet pipe and heating it up. Most burner designs I've seen omit this part. If you look at a Bunsen burner it has a grid on top as well. It also breaks up gas flow for better combustion and an even flame cone I believe. Every little bit helps. Great video BTW
You mean like balancing an electric air blower over a drum of liquid and balancing his burner in his house of cards?One bump and it would have all turned to shit!Like the rest of us he is not immune to doing some dodgy things.Apart from that I thought it was one of the best burner build videos on the tube.
That caught wicked hot fast. When my wife gets back from deployment I think this is going to be our new build together along with a forge I was going to do a double burner but I think I'm just going to do a single burner now. But I do have a pretty large propane tank. It's one of those that goes to about waist-high what do you think two or one. Great video
@15:22 - Yes you CAN weld stainless to mild using either copper clad, mild steel wire or stainless wire IF (as you point out) it's not critical. Not every welding operation is required to be dead-on, "up to code" perfect. As a welder of 20 years, my advice? Take seriously what matters and don't worry about what doesn't and learn to know the difference. Only rookies and experienced incompetents think everything has to be perfect. If everything you do is perfect... you're taking too damn long doing what you're doing. It doesn't have to be perfect. It just has to be right.
A great burner and I can see it has a lot of potential for other applications and could be the basis for a fairly large forge if two or more burners were used
I'm thinking more along the line of using something like this for a burner to an outdoor grill / BBQ, but with natural gas. About 15 years ago, I had a cast aluminum grill that I re-engineered to use unregulated propane that mixed with air in the normal mixing chamber. It could shoot a flame out of the grill over 6 ft high. Great for searing steaks. I was heating up the unit prior to grilling some steaks one weekend and I noticed something splashing on my shoe. Turned out the I had melted the aluminum and large globs of it were dripping down. Ooops...
If you can't weld, can you attache the pipe cap with JB weld? An old vacuum cleaner for the blower? Maybe a hair blower with a hose Rube Goldberged on?
I was all settled on a dual venturi burner forge build then I see this. Now I will go with forced air burners but I still want 2. My plan is to have a separate valve for each burner so I can run them 1 at a time or both at the same time if I need more heat. Is it a problem to have just 1 burner lit in a 2 burner forge? Also, will that blower your using provide enough air for 2 burners? Thanks for the great video.
I like that idea of build. I have a waste oil burner using reg air and gravity feed oil. I can seen you email of it and the build of you want it Roy.great work
+Spencer Pearson I would love to take a look at the design. I've tried making my own waste oil burner before and didn't really have success with the first one so it kind of got shelved as a project. Thank you by the way for being kind enough to comment on all of my videos and sorry I have not been as responsive as I could be I've been under a lot of work lately.
I appreciate this video, and you are obviously very knowledgeable. I would like to mention that since you are welding stainless steel, and using stainless at the end of the burner where it is getting extremely hot, it is possible that it may release Hexavalent Chromium gas which is an irritant, and carcinogenic. Thanks again!
That's some impressive heat you're generating. Thanks for the very clear video with included explanations. Not that it's rocket science but I can think of quite a few sources for forced air supply. Air Compressor, Hair Drier, Heat Gun, Shop Vac, and uh...Electric or Gas Leaf Blower! Wait! I just thought of another big bag of wind ....Joe Biden! Wakodahatchee Chris
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hey there, can I use this with natural gas, as long as i drill the orifices out to the correct size? Also, is there a way to do this without a welder? thanks!
almost done with my burner. One little change i did to mine was do a 1"x1"x3/4" T fitting with a 1/4" black iron coupling welded in the 3/4" hole at the T fitting. I used a 1/4" brass plug drilled with a 7/64" hole in the center going into the air tube. I used a 1/4"x1/8" brass reducer on the outside of the 1/4" coupling I had welded into the T fitting.
yes that was an outstanding video, I do see one area that I would attempt to do something different. but right now I am laid up waiting for surgery. I will get back with you soon.
I just built two burners following these plans, and they are working beautifully. I posted a video on my channel for it, if anyone is interested, with links back to this one. Thank you Roy and I hope you and yours have an increasingly blessed new year.
Nice video Roy,for future reference-your air valve is a globe valve,which are directional specific,that's why it has a flow arrow-in the bottom,out the top-gate valves have a gate,and most are not directional specific.Globe valves will not function properly if installed incorrectly.
Duke Sinner I would call this valve a reflux valve that is why it has a direction of flow arrow , a globe valve would have a quarter turn handle not screw down and like a gate valve can be connected anyway around.
Great job! Wish I had seen this long ago -- I built a mini ribbon burner (ceramic with holes type) and it is hot but not as hot as yours seems to be, also my gage pressure is about 10psi. I guess my mixture flow is slower. That is okay since the fuel needed for X amount of heat is, after all, the fuel needed for X amount of heat, right? Beautiful job.
Brilliant you inspired me to build one! FYI that's actually not a gate valve it's a seat valve and it's the right valve for the application does help control pressure easier and better than a gate valve would . May I suggest some more research on valves and the proper use and placement especially when you're using them on a horizontal versus a vertical application. HHBpHhelps
I have read quite a lot of the comments and Questions. Our school had the same type of air blower setup. Isn't rhe level of oxidation too high for knife making? It sure is efficent. Thanks for sharing.
Well done! Looks like it will save on propane which is great, but it would have been nice to know how hot the metal actually got in that short of time. Do you have a thermometer?
Thanks so much for the extensive help...great design and build...solid results! However, I am going to source or build a quieter blower...the pitch is a killer!!
My pointer finger is dead because I wore gloves on a drill press, and it happened as you said... I got lucky the glue ripped right after it destroyed my finger... Saved my hand and maybe my life...
Wow !!! You managed to fast forward through the most important part of the build, wielding in the orifice , and thanks for over explaining the simple stuff !!!
Great video thanks Chris. Do you think reducing the area of the pipe where the gasses mix for a short section and then enlarging back to the original size would cause them to better mix, or would this create some kind of risk of backpressure?
MK23C Good thought and I found reducing the 90° did help but after some fiddling around I've actually found the opposite worked better with nipple lengths as in video. Going up a size to a 3/4" 90° then back to 1/2" helped the burn colour. Also tried a 80 mesh screen (first piece I dug up) at the outlet side of the 90° to create a little back pressure. Settled on a 3/4" 90° with 2 screens at outlet, first one done shaped and final flat, going at center. The idea is from a Furick TIG Welding Cup Diffuser, his design works so well at improving argon coverage that I thought to try it on a burner. Just a few thoughts. All the best. Cheers
Okay which size drill is it? You said .035 which is a #65, your link is to a #35 which is .110.
Sorry about the mix up, it is #35 drill bit.
@@dev-debug I wish there were a way to upload pictures but that orifice hole, like you said, is fairly large but rather than drilling a hole through (whatever that piece of metal was) that cap (?) where the fuel meets the air (right at the T - I have some ⅛"stainless steel tubing that has an orifice size of about 1/16" and I also have stainless tubing that is 1/16" with a I.D. of roughly 1/32".
I just happened to notice that you can take ¼" stainless tubing and put a ⅛" piece very snugly into it, very solid fit and now the 1/16" stainless fits snugly into the ⅛" tubing.
KwazyWabbit I wish there were a way to upload pictures but that orifice hole, like you said, is fairly large but rather than drilling a hole through (whatever that piece of metal was) that cap (?) where the fuel meets the air (right at the T - I have some ⅛"stainless steel tubing that has an orifice size of about 1/16" and I also have stainless tubing that is 1/16" with a I.D. of roughly 1/32".
I just happened to notice that you can take ¼" stainless tubing and put a ⅛" piece very snugly into it, very solid fit and now the 1/16" stainless fits snugly into the ⅛" tubing.
Would this be the better option, if indeed there is a better or worse option?
#35 = 0.1100 inches
1/8 = 0.125 inches
@@user-zx7tg4ph5r can i put the pipe of gaz without drill, what happen?
This really helps!
I`m a coatings formulation chemist.
I was in a R&D meeting currently developing ultra high temperature coatings,that need testing well above 1500F.
I built my own micro furnace, with fire bricks, in the lab, but the big propane burner would not exceed 700 F.
I just came back from my meeting,and your tutorial was running.
Could not have been better timing!!!
I got the plumbing described on this video,and am on my way!
Sincere thanks.
any results on what temperature you reached?
YOU SIR ARE THE MAN !!!!
Excellent design
Excellent build
Excellent construction!!!
Definitely one of the best burner making videos I've watched
Those are some good looking flames you get. I've watched dozens of burner videos in the last couple of weeks but learned as much from yours as any, much of it new to me. Thank you.
Most definitely the most useful video out of 30 I've watched thank you
Glad it helped
That was the best burner I've ever seen.
And you know what's the best? It was also the best video about a burner build.
I think I can rebuild it, so thanks for that!
This video took my forge from Nay to Yeah! Thank you. I used your design and can reach and regulate temperature within seconds. God Bless.
Glad I could help!
Roy I just made this burner for my forge! I was having a hard time getting my materials hot enough with my two burners I made and two I bought! So I saw this video and gave this a shot. What can I say, this thing will blast! It’s pretty loud to run but it’s worth the noise! I barely have to open the gas valve and before I was running two burners wide open and burning through all my gas fast. This was a great build you shared! Thanks so much for what you and your wife do to share the knowledge! I follow your every post and often build what you offer up! Well wishes to you and yours God bless!
Ps. I wish I could add a picture lol
Great video. Simple, informative, everything was explained with demonstration. Much appreciated
This is really the best I've seen and I've been upgrading my systems for years.
I looked at a lot of videos about gas burner and I wondered why they never put a screen on the flare like the industry does in their torches. You are the first that put one on and explain why! same for the elbow. and for the blower. I prepare a gas forge and I understand now that I MUST insert a blower in the sketch... Thank you very much, God bless you
Glad you made this video, because the forge I just built, wasn't producing the flame I needed, so I added air from compressor, but the nozzle sat along inside of coupler, next to orfice hole, and used a lot of electricity, so now I will reconstruct it like yours, using 12v blower from RV gas furnace, so it's still mobile.
This is a great video. I made this burner to heat a small forge made from bricks to heat steel rivets. This burner works great, gets the rivets really hot. Thanks for putting this video together.
That's a globe valve. A gate valve has more of a guillotine like wedge that blocks flow.
Common knowledge for a Fire Sprinkler Fitter :)
I just made one to your specs and it works fantastically. Thanx for posting your video.
Nicely done! I just got home from a 3 day raft trip and am catching up on your videos.
It's similiar to my burner. A couple things different are... if you use a needle valve as well, then you don't need to drill an orface. Just neck your T down to 1/4 inch at the gas inlet. The needle valve will give you fine flow control. The other thing is.. is that a flare is only needed if used outside a burn chamber, or if your chamber is too large for for the burner.
The diffuser (the SS cup) is a nice touch. This is the same principle as a ribbon burner uses by spreading/evening out the flame.
Thanks for the video..
That was the best video I've seen...best safety precautions...I give you a 10/10 for that...Thank you very much....keep up the good work
What a terrific rocket flame. Awesome control system.
Exceptionally well-illustrated video. Thanks mate, it helped alot
Wow 😳 this video is very educational and it's covers everything that I was wondering about. I just wanted to make a burner with foot cranking 2 belows as a Air supply for Chinese wok but this seems more than what I needed .but then it made me interested into forging metals . Thank you.
Thanks, very good explaining how it works. Most just show "do this", but you have explained how so now you can do slight changes to suit what you want or need with what you have to use. Very helpful.
Thank you very much! I'm making such a burner, your video is very detailed explain each step and matters needing attention, very big help to me, thanks again for your help to me!I am your fans from China。
Very, very excellent innovation! Thank you,God bless you! Very good and useful explanation!
Thanks God bless
Thanks for the design info! I made this without the elbow and it works fantastic! Doesn't require any further turbulence to create a good mixture. I found similar perforated screen instead of the Sink strainer and brazed it to the reducer that may have been why the elbow wasn't needed
But what I did do was to add an extension CUP design to the nozzle about 2 inches which was the improvement I found
Also I eliminated the air control valve and installed a dimmer switch to the power supply of the blower. This was better as it made the whole assembly lighter which I used for other applications.
Still good video. Like "G" you could get rid of that valve & partially cover the squirrel cage blower intake. If natural gas a different orifice & regulator. FYI: your air valve is a Globe Valve, not a Gate Valve (slower opening, straight flow).
Great video with great explanations! You basically made a giant cut off torch I love it
This is neat. Very similar to a ghetto burner I threw together last weekend. I had a harbor freight weed burner that I took the burner tube off of, leaving just the gas feed tube (there's a needle valve built in to the handle). I went and bought a 1" 90° elbow and a 1" x 12" black iron nipple. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the outside of the elbow pointing straight down one side of it, the side which I thread the 12" pipe into, then I just sorta snug fit the gas feed end from the burner wand into that 3/8" hole, and attach an air supply hose, from a mattress inflator, to the other side of the elbow. It works perfectly, although I plan to add a better fitting for the gas supply because it is kinda dangerous as it is. Also the orifice in the gas tube is too big, so I'm gonna get a fitting to screw in a .030 mig tip into. I don't bother with a high pressure regulator, I just use the needle valve on the original weed burner wand for now. It really does work great. Complete combustion, outside of the burner tube (as long it's in the furnace, without a flare). Not counting the weed burner, which I already had, I spent $10 on the elbow and pipe nipple.
Just trying to watch all of your videos to get some ideas about a forge set up . Your burner is probably the best on I've seen so far , and let me tell you I've watched a lot of burner videos. Thanks again Roy for all you do. God bless you and keep on forging
Well done Roy, really appreciate what you share, I will do this for my gas forge, thanks again mate.
thanks, you are good people, love to meet you when I come to the States again.
Best explanation of burner design theory that I have seen! I think you could have more correctly referred to forced "air", rather than "oxygen". I was not sure if an O2 tank was going to be involved for a while... Thanks! Me, I just want to melt some scrap copper into an ingot or two, for cheap.
I followed this build usin similar sized parts, and it came out working great! Though I found that the burner worked better when using a slightly bigger drill bit.
great video! Very detailed and easy to understand. I bought the item list and brought it to a hardware store and they found everything with ease and assembly was simple as well. I cant wait to try it out, Thanks you!
Very nice tutorial,, I really appreciate those folks who take the time & effort to explain ,,reminds me of the 1970's when metal shop was still around,, thanks
thank's for sharing tis videdo. I have build several gas forges and burners but your design has been the best so far. made one yesterday It works fantastic and it's going to save me a lot of propane in the future.
Hey Thor's forge,
Do you have any efficiency comparison at all against the "usual' atmospheric venturi systems??
Cheers
Do you have the list the material
I do,got them 3days ago
I've just made a forced air burner similar to this one, but have yet to light it. This has been the best video I have found so far explaining the process and reasoning behind it. I would love to email you pictures of it before I light it to get I your advise / suggestions for any changes I should make.
Thank you so much for the full explanation. Been trying to build a proper propane burner for a while now.
Brilliant and simple explanation. God bless
I've built this exact same design except i used 3/4" pipe and have a mattress blower powering air. My forge is cylindrical inside being 9" wide by about 10" deep, insulated by 2" of Kaol wool, yet I can't get it to reach yellow hot temperatures without adding on a second burner (which is a venturi). Should I drill the gas orfice hole bigger?
thank you very much, your explanation about elbow and flare was great help to me to build successful burner. again thank you and best regards.
+ayman baroud I'm glad you enjoyed the video thank you so much for watching God bless
Easily the best video for explaining gas and oxygen mixture as well as the reasons why.. Perfect!
God bless brother. The lord works through us using our hands.
Have you considered using an air hose from your compressor instead of an air pump? I just built mine and using my compressor it works great. Not to mention as long as you have a big enough compressor and tank it is a lot quieter.
That was impressive. I never really thought about a forced air before. Great explanation as to how it works and why. Thanks!
You're welcome thank you for watching
@@ChristCenteredIronworks Hey CCI, just a question, is the metal plug between the gas line and air line strictly necessary?
Can't seem to find an answer for this in all the videos I've watched of burner builds. Would this forced air burner be hotter and more efficient than the typical straight pipe with a choke? It seems to me to be the case but I'm looking for confirmation. Best build video I've seen so far and I've watched dozens. I particularly appreciate the time/care you took and not to mention how well you articulated the whole process of the build. Well done and thank you very much!
+StriveFor Selflessness thank you for the great compliment! Yes this forced air burner can be hotter and more efficient than a typical atmospheric burner as you have a greater degree of control overpressure and air flow. Thank you for taking the time to watch hope this helps you with your question God bless
I don't think it's any hotter, but it's much more efficient. With an atmospheric burner, the force of the propane is what sucks the air in. You end up pushing out a ton of propane that escapes without ever burning. Because of the natural drag of the propane moving out of the burner, it's impossible to get enough air pulled in to burn all of the propane. At the end, he shows an ample flame with a crazy low amount of propane PSI. That shows just how little propane he uses to get the exact same amount of heat.
Absolutly hotter. Venturi burners are very low efficient and wasteful. You have to use 15 psi in a venturi to get even close to what a forced air burner will get with 2 to 5 psi
WOW very efficient use of simple parts, impressive 👍👍👍🇦🇺😁
I had to go and check to see that you were still active my friend.I subscribed because I am building a metal shop similar to yours. I am impressed with the tools that you have amassed and use. my main goal is to make aluminum and then other castings for tooling and parts for obsolete equipment and engines in my small engine business as well my mobile welding . Thank you. It is such a cool build. That is so cool that you did HVAC in another life..lol
That’s brilliant and a n efficient burner. I’m currently using a straight Venturi burner which is very fuel thirsty and not as hot as this one. I’m going to have a go at building this one. Excellent video.. thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Thats got to be the best one I have seen yet ,and cheap as chips to build ,very cool dude.
Great video, very well put together. Looks like a really good and reasonable inexpensive burner build. Thanks.
Hi, I've watched your video's and found them, for the most part, informative and helpful. I don't want to criticise but there are a few inaccuracies in this one which I feel need addressing. The valve you use to control air flow is a stop cock, not a gate valve. You can see clear through a gate valve when it's fully open. A stop cock is for water. The fittings are malleable iron, basically cast iron, not mild steel. They shouldn't be welded on anything structural but you're OK here. Finally, The light blue cone in the centre of the flame close to the nozzle is the coolest part, not hottest. It's hottest mid way between the cone end and the tip of the flame. It's still a splendid burner, I may make one myself soon. My coke forge is fine but takes too long to light and heat for a small job.Regards, Ian.
Would brazing the cast fitting not have been better , to stop it cracking?
very nice thanks you. i often wondered why does the gas not create a flame inside the piping since it is already mixing with oxygen before it exits the nozzle ?
Excellent! Detailed explanation especially for a new guy like me. Thank you. Joe
Glad you found it helpful Joe!
Appreciate your work.
It was a really high temperature,
Christ Centered Ironworks I like this and i will try it out, thank's for sharing. The hottest part of the flame i think you will find is just at the tip of the inner cone, and you are using globe valve, not a gate valve. Happy new year!
Mr Johnson a globe valve would have a quarter turn handle, I would call this one a reflux valve .
Really nice build (despite the wonky air mattress blower). I would think the shop would be loud enough already and would sort some way of having that air come from outside the building, thinking a high speed duct fan cut into the wall.
The screen should be inside the bell reducer and works on the opposite principle of the coal miners Davy Lamp. The goal is to have the gas ignite outside the burner -- not in the inlet pipe and heating it up. Most burner designs I've seen omit this part. If you look at a Bunsen burner it has a grid on top as well. It also breaks up gas flow for better combustion and an even flame cone I believe. Every little bit helps. Great video BTW
God bless you for this video. Thank you.
Outstanding demonstration video! I'm looking to make one on a boiler tank used for our black oxide process and this was very helpful!
Very very nice burner. Is it able to produce forge welding heat?
Good ,,,, good ..... Good 😃 muito bom !!! Gostei do que vc fez 😄 ,,, uns dos melhores queimadores que vi aqui no RUclips.
Dude... you are a boss!!! Thanks so much!!!
You can tell a good tradesman by the amount of safety they appreciate. Thanks for the video
You mean like balancing an electric air blower over a drum of liquid and balancing his burner in his house of cards?One bump and it would have all turned to shit!Like the rest of us he is not immune to doing some dodgy things.Apart from that I thought it was one of the best burner build videos on the tube.
That caught wicked hot fast. When my wife gets back from deployment I think this is going to be our new build together along with a forge I was going to do a double burner but I think I'm just going to do a single burner now. But I do have a pretty large propane tank. It's one of those that goes to about waist-high what do you think two or one. Great video
I like this video. very much, answered my questions on just what I was doing wrong.
@15:22 - Yes you CAN weld stainless to mild using either copper clad, mild steel wire or stainless wire IF (as you point out) it's not critical. Not every welding operation is required to be dead-on, "up to code" perfect.
As a welder of 20 years, my advice? Take seriously what matters and don't worry about what doesn't and learn to know the difference. Only rookies and experienced incompetents think everything has to be perfect. If everything you do is perfect... you're taking too damn long doing what you're doing. It doesn't have to be perfect. It just has to be right.
A great burner and I can see it has a lot of potential for other applications and could be the basis for a fairly large forge if two or more burners were used
I'm thinking more along the line of using something like this for a burner to an outdoor grill / BBQ, but with natural gas. About 15 years ago, I had a cast aluminum grill that I re-engineered to use unregulated propane that mixed with air in the normal mixing chamber. It could shoot a flame out of the grill over 6 ft high. Great for searing steaks. I was heating up the unit prior to grilling some steaks one weekend and I noticed something splashing on my shoe. Turned out the I had melted the aluminum and large globs of it were dripping down. Ooops...
Best explanation ever...thanks man
Great build, looks like a project is coming up in the future for our shop.
If you can't weld, can you attache the pipe cap with JB weld? An old vacuum cleaner for the blower? Maybe a hair blower with a hose Rube Goldberged on?
I was all settled on a dual venturi burner forge build then I see this. Now I will go with forced air burners but I still want 2. My plan is to have a separate valve for each burner so I can run them 1 at a time or both at the same time if I need more heat. Is it a problem to have just 1 burner lit in a 2 burner forge? Also, will that blower your using provide enough air for 2 burners? Thanks for the great video.
I like that idea of build. I have a waste oil burner using reg air and gravity feed oil. I can seen you email of it and the build of you want it Roy.great work
+Spencer Pearson I would love to take a look at the design. I've tried making my own waste oil burner before and didn't really have success with the first one so it kind of got shelved as a project. Thank you by the way for being kind enough to comment on all of my videos and sorry I have not been as responsive as I could be I've been under a lot of work lately.
Christ Centered Ironworks I understand. It's been a little busy here.
Christ Centered Ironworks I would enjoy seeing you build one. I have no odd how they work
I know it's not your norm Roy but would love to see your take on this considering your past experiences...
Looks like I'm finally going to get around to building the forced air ribbon burner. "Great video Roy"👍👍👍✌
I appreciate this video, and you are obviously very knowledgeable. I would like to mention that since you are welding stainless steel, and using stainless at the end of the burner where it is getting extremely hot, it is possible that it may release Hexavalent Chromium gas which is an irritant, and carcinogenic. Thanks again!
That's some impressive heat you're generating. Thanks for the very clear video with included explanations. Not that it's rocket science but I can think of quite a few sources for forced air supply. Air Compressor, Hair Drier, Heat Gun, Shop Vac, and uh...Electric or Gas Leaf Blower! Wait! I just thought of another big bag of wind ....Joe Biden!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Does he need to take the fifth to avoid explaining his actions hundreds of times?
@@kiwiingenuity1677 "He", who ever "he" is needs to take his lawyer's advice. If it's the 5th, so be it. That includes sleepy Joe.
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Christ Centered Ironworks ,
Thanks sir,
Christ Centered Ironworks ,
Good job sir
Christ Centered Ironworks,
I intrested your gas equipment design
hey there, can I use this with natural gas, as long as i drill the orifices out to the correct size? Also, is there a way to do this without a welder? thanks!
Where is the list of the material
Thanks Man, just what I have been looking for.
Glad it helps!
almost done with my burner. One little change i did to mine was do a 1"x1"x3/4" T fitting with a 1/4" black iron coupling welded in the 3/4" hole at the T fitting. I used a 1/4" brass plug drilled with a 7/64" hole in the center going into the air tube. I used a 1/4"x1/8" brass reducer on the outside of the 1/4" coupling I had welded into the T fitting.
Great video, can't wait to upgrade! The explanations and build are the best I've seen!
Great video dude, there’s things I would have done differently but that’s just me and my experience….. keep on rockin brother…
yes that was an outstanding video, I do see one area that I would attempt to do something different. but right now I am laid up waiting for surgery. I will get back with you soon.
I just built two burners following these plans, and they are working beautifully. I posted a video on my channel for it, if anyone is interested, with links back to this one. Thank you Roy and I hope you and yours have an increasingly blessed new year.
Thanks for the shout out, and we're glad you found the plans helpful and handy. Have blessed New Year as well! ~Jessica
loved the video
How ;ong does the small bottle of propane last?
Nice video Roy,for future reference-your air valve is a globe valve,which are directional specific,that's why it has a flow arrow-in the bottom,out the top-gate valves have a gate,and most are not directional specific.Globe valves will not function properly if installed incorrectly.
Duke Sinner I would call this valve a reflux valve that is why it has a direction of flow arrow , a globe valve would have a quarter turn handle not screw down and like a gate valve can be connected anyway around.
brilliant video excellent instructions thankyou for taking the time.
Great job! Wish I had seen this long ago -- I built a mini ribbon burner (ceramic with holes type) and it is hot but not as hot as yours seems to be, also my gage pressure is about 10psi. I guess my mixture flow is slower. That is okay since the fuel needed for X amount of heat is, after all, the fuel needed for X amount of heat, right? Beautiful job.
Brilliant you inspired me to build one!
FYI that's actually not a gate valve it's a seat valve and it's the right valve for the application does help control pressure easier and better than a gate valve would . May I suggest some more research on valves and the proper use and placement especially when you're using them on a horizontal versus a vertical application.
HHBpHhelps
so nice job , amazing .
I have read quite a lot of the comments and Questions.
Our school had the same type of air blower setup.
Isn't rhe level of oxidation too high for knife making?
It sure is efficent. Thanks for sharing.
FYI There is a Teflon tape that is rated for gas applications, it's a little stiffer and yellow.
Great Video, I could not find your material list Thanks for the details
So, if all that needs be done with the strainer screen is trap it in, 2 or 3 holes tapped for screws would also be good enough?
+Ron Yerke yep sure would!
Cool. Thanks!
Well done! Looks like it will save on propane which is great, but it would have been nice to know how hot the metal actually got in that short of time. Do you have a thermometer?
Looks to be about 1500F - 1600F at the end of the stock.
Thanks so much for the extensive help...great design and build...solid results!
However, I am going to source or build a quieter blower...the pitch is a killer!!
My pointer finger is dead because I wore gloves on a drill press, and it happened as you said... I got lucky the glue ripped right after it destroyed my finger... Saved my hand and maybe my life...
Wow !!! You managed to fast forward through the most important part of the build, wielding in the orifice , and thanks for over explaining the simple stuff !!!
+Ronald Tremblay you're very welcome I'm glad you enjoyed the video! :-)
very useful, really good, thank you
Thank you for watching
that anvil behind you is the stuff of dreams!
+Warren Buitendag definitely! :-)
Great video thanks Chris. Do you think reducing the area of the pipe where the gasses mix for a short section and then enlarging back to the original size would cause them to better mix, or would this create some kind of risk of backpressure?
MK23C Good thought and I found reducing the 90° did help but after some fiddling around I've actually found the opposite worked better with nipple lengths as in video. Going up a size to a 3/4" 90° then back to 1/2" helped the burn colour. Also tried a 80 mesh screen (first piece I dug up) at the outlet side of the 90° to create a little back pressure. Settled on a 3/4" 90° with 2 screens at outlet, first one done shaped and final flat, going at center. The idea is from a Furick TIG Welding Cup Diffuser, his design works so well at improving argon coverage that I thought to try it on a burner. Just a few thoughts. All the best. Cheers
Look up static agitator. Basically a loose metal spiral you weld in the system after the air and gas meet. It helps mix the ratio before combustion
Yes, possibly but the natural pressure of propane is around 3,5 kg/cm2, too high air pressure would probably just stop the propane from getting out.
Would it be better to turn it over as they have a mild cone that would assist centering.
Gonna have to make one, because my venturi burner isn't really enough (I do casting)