@@yax75 He did send it to me and it works amazingly well. It screws into the 2" pipe so it's a solid fit. I have no idea if he uploaded it anywhere. Msg him on IG and ask.
Great explanation on the forge and burner. How deep is the casting for the burner, looks about 4 inches plus 1.5" inside the burner but I didn't hear the actual size.. thanks you
@@ken5439 the burner was about 3” of refractory below the burner and an inch inside. It really depends on your forge wall thickness. That’s why I did the forge casting first. 👍
If you don't have space for cast bricks(you can make tinner ones yourself for about $1/lb) you can put a stainless cookie sheet on it to stop any damage from slag and flux drips.
Hi everybody! I'm hobby bladesmith from Hungary (Budapest) who is just thinking to build a gas forge to replace my charcoal burning one. My biggest problem has been the even heat distribution on the blade especially at the end of forging when the blade getting to be long. Thanks to this great Man who was keen to share his knowledge I found super solution that solves the problem. This ribbon burner is brilliantly simple and logical. Thank You Sir and keep up the great job!
hi Tyrell - thanks for sharing - this is the best forge system - more efficient and rational, spends less gaz and have very high temperatures - -much more we need. I made the mine with some alterations - I projected a double chamber burner, so that, while forging single blades I only use one chamber. When forging long blades or need more temperatures - fire both chambers...it works perfectly. Regards from Brazil
That’s was an awesome build. I really like how the ribbon burner spreads the heat out across the length of the forge. My forced air has a hot spot. I also love the fire brick floor and plan to try that on my next reline. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and all the time you spend on these videos.
If you ever have to do this again one trick I tried was throwing the sono tube in the bathtub with about 2-3 of hot water. Once it's soaked in enough to be flexible you can either hang the tube with a wire and let brick weigh the bottom to form as it dries or you can be impatient like me and clamp brick vertical while a propane space heater dries it out-but I found this saved me the hassle of measuring and cutting wood/sonotube and saved time and materials. If you let it get good n soggy it clamps to form perfectly and dries just as hard as it was store bought. Some brands of sonotube may delaminate in the water but a simple wrap in landscaping twine or anything really fixes this. Worked great for me. Cheers 🍻
I’m lying in bed with covid watching your build. I hope it looks easier once I’m feeling better. Right now crossing the hall to the bathroom looks difficult! I really like the swirl effect!
A G.I. Joe crematorium. I like the idea of the solenoid shutoff. I think that's an upgrade worth adding to my DIY ribbon burner. Thanks for showing your take on design and fabrication concisely. 👍
I'm 6'3"... My forge sits on an old rolling TV stand (remember those from school? - yeah, I just aged myself)... So yeah, I get it. So nice to be able to look straight into the forge, rather than bent over. Great build! You've got me thinking now for when it's time for a forge upgrade.
I have wqatched about 10-12 of your videos so far and I am really appreciative of the knowledge you share. This video on the forge is quite timely as I was drawing up dimensions for a forge yesterday and the placement of my ribbon burner would not have worked as intended.
You are going to really like this style forge. I built mine based on a pattern from Wyvern Industries over 20 years ago where the burner comes in from the side and creates a swirling flame. Long before ribbon burners though, so this is great upgrade.
I'm not as experienced with air systems, but in liquid systems, gate valves aren't great for throttling flow, they're better suited for on/off (or flow/no flow) applications. It's been a few years since I took the classes, but I believe they get around 80-90% of full flow when they're around 10% open (again, talking about liquid here). I don't know if the same holds for a gas system, but it might mess with the air/gas mixture.
With air they are pretty proportional to amount it’s open. You can see it as the gate opens/closes that the flow increases/decreases evenly. Thanks for watching.
Really nice forge! Im really excited because me and my dad is also building a forge. And i really enjoy your knife making voice over they give me motivation to go out to shop.
Awesome build. Glad you went into the psi vs flow commentary. Soo many people look at the psi and state they are using less gas based on that. You can get flow meters if you want to add that.
It certainly is an area people (including myself in the past) have been confused about. I did look up flow meters and for propane they are quite expensive. Thanks for watching
Amazing job making the forge 🥳😎 I got myself a devil forge and it’s very nice with three burners on the top of the body of the forge and it will get the steel hot to a yellow heat and I’ve not tried to forge weld with it yet but I can try some cable and see how I get on 👍😊
The problem with the devil forge is that the burners are too far apart and there's a cold spot in the center. You might get it up to forge welding temps but you'll probably go through a lot of gas since its a venturi and there's not much insulation in those. Certainly great for the price though. Thanks for watching, Robert.
I like idea of having the heat swirling as I'm sure this would produce a much more consistent heat of your material you are working on. I am wondering if spot where there burner hits the refactory will deteriorate quicker over time. Having used it now for six months are you seeing any excessive wear in that particular area?
There’s no deterioration at all. The kastolite is rated to 3000 degrees and this probably tops out around 2500F in the hottest areas. This is a very common design too. Thanks for watching
Great build! I've been thinking about rebuilding my blast furnace, so I really appreciate your video! Your design is great. Love the ribbon burner. More complicated than anything I've built to-date, so gives me a lot to think about. Man, that burner puts out some serious heat. Kasto-o-lite 30 was definitely a good choice for refractory. Lol.
Nice build and I have an idea for your forge. Since I have never used one it may not be so good. I was thinking there at the end of the video that if you welded a rod to the center of each door that is about 12 inches long. Then attached a wood handle to the end of each rod it would make handling the hot doors much safer. Also the rods sticking out would have a tendency to push the doors tighter against the forge helping them seal better. Cheers...
Thank you for putting this video together. Building your version right now. Curious, how heavy is the cylinder/refractory portion without the burner and such? Do you know the max heat that the burner produces? TIA.
For mine, since it’s 3/8” thick it’s REALLY heavy, but it was gifted to me do I used it. With the refractory it’s easily around 100 lbs or so. I can easily push the forge up past 2300F and still have room to higher but that’s as far as I’ve pushed it. Thanks for watching.
awesome build thanks for all the tips denis cant wait to see it in action i have to finish my ribbon burner forge need to make the pluming and get 1 of those fans your using
Mr. Tyrell, I get so much out of your videos. I'd like to say thank you for sharing all this info with me and the community. I'm currently building this forge and just cut and screwed the 8" sono tube to a 4.5" wide piece of scrap wood as you show here at 5:25. I'm wondering why my form is 11+" high lol. Did you cut out a 4.5 inch section of the tube? How tall is your forge interior? Thanks again and keep making videos!
Fantastic video, thank you for creating it! I'm considering buying a small forge to setup in garage. How hot does the inside of your garage get when you work your forge? Does it cause any damage to your drywall or contents in your garage? Thank you in advance!
Right above the forge it’s about 150F when I’m forge welding. About 8’ away it’s 125F. No damage at all to the garage or drywall. Make sure your sprinkler heads are rated for 200F though (green stems in the US mean 200F). My forge is also way more powerful than any small forge you’ll buy online. Thanks for watching, James.
Wow! REALLY WELL DONE and super instructive -- Thanks! I will be making a little smaller version right away, probably about 75% of these component dimensions (and fewer but same straw size) and maybe about half the blower power, kind of correcting for the "square-cube law." This is pretty doggone GREAT!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Well sure enough, I do have a question you might help me with. Within the square profile of the tubing used, what would you say is a good general proportion of the tube to occupy with the bent baffle, then the empty space, then the refractory material? You did mention this, but would 1/3 (or a little more) at the top inlet side and baffle, then 1/3 empty space, then 1/3 refractory space inside the tubing. I assume that the refractory OUTSIDE the tube is just whatever is reasonable, not so thick as to cause a bunch of turbulence --- maybe 1-1/2 or 2 inches? This is a SUPER video, but I just don't want to do it over again because of an avoidable mistake. Your guesses are going to be better than mine. Thanks! As you may have guessed, I'm making a little smaller burner and using either 2 or 2-1/2 inch (1/8 wall) square tubing and likely a smaller air/gas supply pipe, so just want the proportions to be reasonable.
@@AerialLensVideo once you put the baffle in I would make it take up only 3/4” or so. Then just make sure you’re refractory is less than that. You really only need about 1/2 to 3/4” of refractory inside the tube. The amount of refractory outside is just dependent on the thickness of your forge walls. Make sense?
Those inline fans can be safely controlled by a rheostat (fan speed controller). I'm not sure whether back pressure on the fan motor from limiting air flow with a valve will have any ill effect on the life of the motor or not, but using a dial may prove more precise when calibrating the air/fuel mixture. Maybe its overkill, but as an old friend once said, "if its worth building, it's worth over building." Also, craigslist might be a good place to find those fans for cheap. The smallest one that I'm aware of is 4". If you go that route, include key words like: hydroponics, or indoor growing, as these fans are commonly used for environmental control when growing cannabis indoors.
Love the build. Mine is very similar in design and works beautifully thanks to your help. You spoke about the backpressure psi. I'm curious what yours would be set at for forge welding in this and do you open your air valve fully? Thanks
Hot damn! I'll definitely switch to a ribbon burner with my next forge. Two extra style points for the swirl and for the #wfijoke 🤣 Great build, Denis!
Just stepped over this amazing video. I‘m planing to build a ribbon burner and the a new forge too. This one one gave me some decent information. Thanks! Can you tell how the forge did its job the last 2 years?
Nice looking forge. You are correct that pressure does not equal flow rate and the two are not interchangeable. However your comments about the regulator, closed system and measuring back pressure are incorrect.
Quick question! At 3:58 you say to not put holes in the baffle plate directly at the fuel/air input but then at 7:27 the baffle has holes in it where you said not to put them! Is there any reason behind this at all?
I figured I’d put a few. I just meant don’t put lots of holes there or all the flow will just go to the center of the burner only and not get to the ends
I love it, much better design. I wish I would have got that type of fan now. I almost did but bought the green centrifugal fan instead. It works fine but I would like a little more air so I can dabble in some crucible steel. Did you notice if this forge pushes a lot more heat out of the front than the other? Mine is very similar but it’s round and the swirling effect really pushes the heat out of the front. Hands get quite hot when using tongs even with welding gloves on.
@@TyrellKnifeworks yeah it only happens when the doors are open. What’s the heat up time to welding temp? Curious to how yours performs compared to mine. My refractory is only about 3/4”- 1” thick on top of 3” of wool.
@@erikcourtney1834 I haven’t timed it with the gas/air turned up high, but I suspect about 5 mins. It’s crazy hot in there with the 13” burner. Total coverage, which is the main reason I built it this way.
@@TyrellKnifeworks that’s pretty impressive. I’m about 8.5 mins. With a 3x9 burner in an 8x20 chamber. It doesn’t like to go below 1700* either. Don’t think my blower has enough power to push past the partially closed valve and still have enough volume to mix with the gas well. Think I’m going to try the inline blower now if it’s working good for you. I was skeptical at first when looking at them.
It’s a great blower and cheap! You do need a cone to resize it down to the pipe, but it has more power than I need. Thanks for checking out the build, Jacques!
Man, I have everything I need to builder a Venturi burner forge but I keep seeing these ribbon burner forges! Now I’m left thinking I should not waste the refactory and Kaowool on a Venturi system, if I’m going to end up wanting to upgrade to the Ribbon system… hmmm. Thanks for the video! I’m going to have to check out your patreon, you keep posting top notch videos! The new shop tour was great, gave me some inspiration for my own shop organization.
I would definitely say to forget the Venturi build. They take more fuel, are louder and not as efficient. The ribbon burners are easier to build, you have more control (because you can adjust both the gas and the air separately) and are better to forge weld with. Thanks for watching, Tyler!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Hey Denis i wanted to say that your videos are really inspiering. Ive been interested of knifemaking for some time and are slowly building up a small place in my sheed for it. Ive allready got my venturi burners and are about to build the forge. i was thinking to perhaps in the future upgrade to a ribbon burner but now im also hesitating and woundering if i should go for this straight away, the venturi burners i can allways put in my small backup forge that i made as a trial piece with some weedburners. The big thing i wounder is if you can give any insight into blowers and what one should be on the lookout for when getting one as thats the bigges piece that i would need to source to go with a ribbon burner insteed.
@grimmner I would suggest this blower: amzn.to/3xXxBEY. I would recommend a brass gate valve instead of the variable speed controller on this one, btw.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for the wery quick respons and and the same note curse you now i have to make a Ribbon burner;) Seeing as its not that big of investments to make a Ribbon burner setup it feels like a no brainer, better controll, heat and less fuel consumption. Again big thanks for the reponse and all the great videos, there are more of your builds and gadgets that are on my to do list:)
So the swirl is better than the burner directly impinging upon the work piece on the floor? I assume it mixes things up better to more evenly distribute heat. I'll watch more videos - just thinking of building a forge for my 10yr old.
Why not introduce your gas near the air blower, to allow it room to integrate and mix well? What is the disadvantage of having a long pipe with air and gas mixture?
Great build Denis! So many useful tips! I am very OCD, so I love your attention to detail. The improvements that you made from the previous forge, make a lot of sense, and will definitely pay off! Thanks for sharing my brother! 💯😎👍🏻🔨🔥🗡️
Great video, as always. Starting my build, but had a question. With your 13" burner, you had a 2" intake. If my burner is shorter would I reduce the size of my intake as well? Thanks
Fantastic, I’m not in the US so I will be sourcing the materials here in Tasmania. Can I ask what the gas consumption is v your old forge? Great work, love your knives.
Hi, I own a pallet remanufacturing business and we go through saw blades all the time and I was wondering if there is any value in the blades? I am looking for creative ways to get rid of them and possibly reduce my overhead buy selling the dull blades at a fraction of what I get them for.
It totally depends on the steel the blades are made from. Check the manufacturer. If the are 15n20 or L6 steel then it would be worth it. Likely though they are bi-metal and made by combining steels so the blade itself isn’t good knife steel, just the teeth.
Just stumbled across your channel, great video!! I love the way you did the door ill have to add that to mine at somepoint. One question I had, what was the reasoning for "sleeving" the brass gas tube into the 2" pipe as opposed to using a tee fitting with a reducer and threading it in? Not trying to criticize, just genuinely curious!
It would have been better to thread it. I wanted a cap at the end because there’s a 3/16” orifice so there’s a little back pressure and I couldn’t figure out how to thread it at that point. I’ll probably redo it at some point and just thread it in. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks hey man thanks for the quick reply!! I have a very similarly sized forge to yours with a ribbon burner and I have the 1/4" brass just threaded in, that's why I asked! I have some solid brass roundstock laying around...I might drill a 3/16" hole through it and solder it inside the 1/4" brass tubing and see how it works. Thanks again!
Are there any parts of this build you have questions about? Big thanks to Brian Housewert from Housemade.us for his help!
Did you ever get the 3d part from Brian? If so did he happen upload it to Thingaverse?
@@yax75 He did send it to me and it works amazingly well. It screws into the 2" pipe so it's a solid fit. I have no idea if he uploaded it anywhere. Msg him on IG and ask.
Great explanation on the forge and burner. How deep is the casting for the burner, looks about 4 inches plus 1.5" inside the burner but I didn't hear the actual size.. thanks you
@@ken5439 the burner was about 3” of refractory below the burner and an inch inside. It really depends on your forge wall thickness. That’s why I did the forge casting first. 👍
Can you make refractory cement?? It's hard to find in Australia and is really expensive at the hardware store.
the side-blown ribbon burner with swirling flame makes the most sense to me. this has inspired me. thank you for sharing your build process.
I’m glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
I really like the sacrificial floor concept. Great forge, I am looking forward to the Damascus projects
Thanks for taking a look, Greg!
If you don't have space for cast bricks(you can make tinner ones yourself for about $1/lb) you can put a stainless cookie sheet on it to stop any damage from slag and flux drips.
Hi everybody! I'm hobby bladesmith from Hungary (Budapest) who is just thinking to build a gas forge to replace my charcoal burning one. My biggest problem has been the even heat distribution on the blade especially at the end of forging when the blade getting to be long. Thanks to this great Man who was keen to share his knowledge I found super solution that solves the problem. This ribbon burner is brilliantly simple and logical. Thank You Sir and keep up the great job!
I’m glad the video was helpful. The ribbon burner is definitely the way to go! 👍. Thanks for watching
I love how your work table slides into place, good idea!
hi Tyrell - thanks for sharing - this is the best forge system - more efficient and rational, spends less gaz and have very high temperatures - -much more we need. I made the mine with some alterations - I projected a double chamber burner, so that, while forging single blades I only use one chamber. When forging long blades or need more temperatures - fire both chambers...it works perfectly.
Regards from Brazil
A double chamber is good idea if it doesn't suck too much heat when its not on. Thanks for watching, Marcio.
Far and away the best tutorial I've seen on the subject.
Thanks for taking a look, Nick!
Awesome upgrade Denis. Thanks for sharing your thoughts process in the design.
Thanks for checking it out, Brooks!
That’s was an awesome build. I really like how the ribbon burner spreads the heat out across the length of the forge. My forced air has a hot spot. I also love the fire brick floor and plan to try that on my next reline. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and all the time you spend on these videos.
I’m glad you got something from the video. Thanks for watching, Eddy!
If you ever have to do this again one trick I tried was throwing the sono tube in the bathtub with about 2-3 of hot water. Once it's soaked in enough to be flexible you can either hang the tube with a wire and let brick weigh the bottom to form as it dries or you can be impatient like me and clamp brick vertical while a propane space heater dries it out-but I found this saved me the hassle of measuring and cutting wood/sonotube and saved time and materials. If you let it get good n soggy it clamps to form perfectly and dries just as hard as it was store bought. Some brands of sonotube may delaminate in the water but a simple wrap in landscaping twine or anything really fixes this. Worked great for me. Cheers 🍻
That’s a great idea! I’ll try that next time. Thanks for watching.
Man I like the height! Doors are sweet too!
Thanks, James! I’m looking forward to doing some forge welding soon!
I’m lying in bed with covid watching your build. I hope it looks easier once I’m feeling better. Right now crossing the hall to the bathroom looks difficult! I really like the swirl effect!
It's actually a pretty easy build. Sorry to hear you've got the 'Rona. I hope you feel better soon and all this makes more sense. 😜
Looking forward to seeing this in action.Great build
You’ll see it in some videos soon! Some very cool builds coming up.
That Burner is beautiful
Thanks! It’s still running strong. I used it today to forge some Damascus. 😉. Thanks for watching.
A G.I. Joe crematorium. I like the idea of the solenoid shutoff. I think that's an upgrade worth adding to my DIY ribbon burner. Thanks for showing your take on design and fabrication concisely. 👍
The solenoid is a good safety measure in case you ever lose power. Though if your fan dies it probably won’t help you. Thanks for watching, James!
Wow that forge runs beautifully, awesome that you got the swirl you wanted!
Yes, it works better than I expected. Thanks for watching
About time you get this out Dennis! In all serious great video! Looks like it turned it great. Thanks for sharing! Enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Thanks, Stephen! It turned out better than imagined.
When you opened it up full, I was waiting for you to ask ATC for permission to taxi to runway 28L !! 😮
Awesome build!!
Haha...yeah its a jet for sure! Thanks for watching
Nicely demonstrated Denis. Amazing design
Thanks for watching, Dan!
Thank you for including the fuel/air assembly. That's the part of the build I haven't been able to find anywhere else.
I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching
I'm 6'3"... My forge sits on an old rolling TV stand (remember those from school? - yeah, I just aged myself)... So yeah, I get it. So nice to be able to look straight into the forge, rather than bent over. Great build! You've got me thinking now for when it's time for a forge upgrade.
It sure is great having it at eye level! Thanks for watching!
Great looking forge, love the design. I am going to have to set myself up a ribbon burner forge as well. Thanks
They are certainly a great option for even heat distribution. Thanks for watching.
Sweet forge. I ordered mine off amazon. Ill build my next one from scratch though thats for sure.
Yeah, making one is the way to go!
I have wqatched about 10-12 of your videos so far and I am really appreciative of the knowledge you share. This video on the forge is quite timely as I was drawing up dimensions for a forge yesterday and the placement of my ribbon burner would not have worked as intended.
I’m glad you find them helpful, Dave. Thanks for watching
Looks like a great build. Nice swirl
Thanks for checking out the build, Stephen. I’m looking forward to doing some Damascus soon!
You are going to really like this style forge. I built mine based on a pattern from Wyvern Industries over 20 years ago where the burner comes in from the side and creates a swirling flame. Long before ribbon burners though, so this is great upgrade.
Thanks for checking it out, James. I’m looking forward to welding up some Damascus soon!
Another great video. Can’t wait to see the works of art that come out of that forge.
Stay tuned! Some really stellar builds coming very soon!
I'm not as experienced with air systems, but in liquid systems, gate valves aren't great for throttling flow, they're better suited for on/off (or flow/no flow) applications. It's been a few years since I took the classes, but I believe they get around 80-90% of full flow when they're around 10% open (again, talking about liquid here). I don't know if the same holds for a gas system, but it might mess with the air/gas mixture.
With air they are pretty proportional to amount it’s open. You can see it as the gate opens/closes that the flow increases/decreases evenly. Thanks for watching.
Really nice forge! Im really excited because me and my dad is also building a forge. And i really enjoy your knife making voice over they give me motivation to go out to shop.
I’m happy to motivate you! Thanks for watching!
Thanks Denis!!! You just made it way easier for me to build mine…. I think I even have the same pipe I salvaged from work…👍👍👍👍
That’s great, I’m happy it helped. 👍
Awesome build. Glad you went into the psi vs flow commentary. Soo many people look at the psi and state they are using less gas based on that. You can get flow meters if you want to add that.
It certainly is an area people (including myself in the past) have been confused about. I did look up flow meters and for propane they are quite expensive. Thanks for watching
Amazing job making the forge 🥳😎 I got myself a devil forge and it’s very nice with three burners on the top of the body of the forge and it will get the steel hot to a yellow heat and I’ve not tried to forge weld with it yet but I can try some cable and see how I get on 👍😊
The problem with the devil forge is that the burners are too far apart and there's a cold spot in the center. You might get it up to forge welding temps but you'll probably go through a lot of gas since its a venturi and there's not much insulation in those. Certainly great for the price though. Thanks for watching, Robert.
On my to do list! Great video as always and thanks for sharing the good and the bad that goes into making such projects.
Thanks for checking it out. I'm really happy with it.
Looks good brotha! I’m looking forward to seeing your first forge weld in it!
That will be soon! Thanks for the material for this build!
@@TyrellKnifeworks you’re welcome! One of these days I’ll get around to building mine.
That looks awesome. Well done.
Thanks for watching, Len!
Extremely well done, per your usual standard
Thanks for checking out this forge build, Henry!
Wow, what a powerful setup! I guess I have to try something like this in the future...
It turned out really well, better than I expected! 👍
Just before you said you love the swirling action I was looking at it thinking to myself holy s*** that looks great
It turned out better than I expected. 👍
Really amazing work...great to watch!
Thanks for following along. 👍
Damn this came out very nice. Job well done!
Thanks, Armen! I’m really happy with it.
Two Words for you. "Cutting Torch"!! Besides in black or blade smithing they come in very handy. I run mine on propane with a special 2 piece tip.
I have a cutting torch, but then I have to deal with the ragged edge and grind it anyway. Thanks for watching, Jeremy.
I like idea of having the heat swirling as I'm sure this would produce a much more consistent heat of your material you are working on. I am wondering if spot where there burner hits the refactory will deteriorate quicker over time. Having used it now for six months are you seeing any excessive wear in that particular area?
There’s no deterioration at all. The kastolite is rated to 3000 degrees and this probably tops out around 2500F in the hottest areas. This is a very common design too. Thanks for watching
Very good, there's a lot of things like the valve placements I was curious about and this outlines them well
Thanks for checking it out, Kris!
Lovin the new forge!
It's been a great forge so far. Thanks for watching, Dave.
Great build! I've been thinking about rebuilding my blast furnace, so I really appreciate your video! Your design is great. Love the ribbon burner. More complicated than anything I've built to-date, so gives me a lot to think about.
Man, that burner puts out some serious heat. Kasto-o-lite 30 was definitely a good choice for refractory. Lol.
It’s a beast for sure! Thanks for watching
Nice build and I have an idea for your forge. Since I have never used one it may not be so good. I was thinking there at the end of the video that if you welded a rod to the center of each door that is about 12 inches long. Then attached a wood handle to the end of each rod it would make handling the hot doors much safer. Also the rods sticking out would have a tendency to push the doors tighter against the forge helping them seal better. Cheers...
Some guys use the handle but I always have tongs in my hand so that’s more convenient. Thanks for watching.
Nice build. I like both doors setup 👍
Thanks for checking it out, Robert!
Thank you for putting this video together. Building your version right now. Curious, how heavy is the cylinder/refractory portion without the burner and such? Do you know the max heat that the burner produces? TIA.
For mine, since it’s 3/8” thick it’s REALLY heavy, but it was gifted to me do I used it. With the refractory it’s easily around 100 lbs or so. I can easily push the forge up past 2300F and still have room to higher but that’s as far as I’ve pushed it. Thanks for watching.
awesome build thanks for all the tips denis cant wait to see it in action i have to finish my ribbon burner forge need to make the pluming and get 1 of those fans your using
That’s all thanks to Brian Housewert’s suggestion on the blower. It’s more power than I need but that’s cool. 👍
Mr. Tyrell, I get so much out of your videos. I'd like to say thank you for sharing all this info with me and the community. I'm currently building this forge and just cut and screwed the 8" sono tube to a 4.5" wide piece of scrap wood as you show here at 5:25. I'm wondering why my form is 11+" high lol. Did you cut out a 4.5 inch section of the tube? How tall is your forge interior? Thanks again and keep making videos!
Yes, I did cut a portion of the tube at the bottom so the hole was about 9” tall. Thanks for watching.
That's a great build. a pid controller would be a great future upgrade.
Yeah, but I don’t really need accuracy in the forge since I have a separate heat treating oven. Thanks for watching.
Wow that looks so awesome. Man I camt wait to see what you make using this beast!!!!!!
Checkout last Thursday’s Triple-T where I started the Intermediate Build Series. It was the debut. 👍
I will be pretty much doing this exact build when I start mine. Thanks for making the video and I'll probably be picking your brain when I start.
Sure, let me know what questions you have. 👍
Fantastic video, thank you for creating it! I'm considering buying a small forge to setup in garage. How hot does the inside of your garage get when you work your forge? Does it cause any damage to your drywall or contents in your garage? Thank you in advance!
Right above the forge it’s about 150F when I’m forge welding. About 8’ away it’s 125F. No damage at all to the garage or drywall. Make sure your sprinkler heads are rated for 200F though (green stems in the US mean 200F). My forge is also way more powerful than any small forge you’ll buy online. Thanks for watching, James.
Wow that was awesome hard work on the ribbon burner, you could just drill a light weight fire brick. Went the drill way myself, lasted 3 years so far.
They typically don’t last and aren’t as tough as castable refractory. You’ve been lucky. Thanks for watching.
Wow! REALLY WELL DONE and super instructive -- Thanks! I will be making a little smaller version right away, probably about 75% of these component dimensions (and fewer but same straw size) and maybe about half the blower power, kind of correcting for the "square-cube law." This is pretty doggone GREAT!
I’m glad the build was helpful! Reach out if you have questions when you build yours. 👍. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks Well sure enough, I do have a question you might help me with.
Within the square profile of the tubing used, what would you say is a good general proportion of the tube to occupy with the bent baffle, then the empty space, then the refractory material? You did mention this, but would 1/3 (or a little more) at the top inlet side and baffle, then 1/3 empty space, then 1/3 refractory space inside the tubing. I assume that the refractory OUTSIDE the tube is just whatever is reasonable, not so thick as to cause a bunch of turbulence --- maybe 1-1/2 or 2 inches? This is a SUPER video, but I just don't want to do it over again because of an avoidable mistake. Your guesses are going to be better than mine. Thanks!
As you may have guessed, I'm making a little smaller burner and using either 2 or 2-1/2 inch (1/8 wall) square tubing and likely a smaller air/gas supply pipe, so just want the proportions to be reasonable.
@@AerialLensVideo once you put the baffle in I would make it take up only 3/4” or so. Then just make sure you’re refractory is less than that. You really only need about 1/2 to 3/4” of refractory inside the tube. The amount of refractory outside is just dependent on the thickness of your forge walls. Make sense?
@@TyrellKnifeworks Completely! Thank you so much, Sir.
Cool design.
Awesome vid👍🏻
Thanks for taking a look!
Totally steeling this and your ribbon burner design!!! You’re awesome man!!!
Steel away! Thanks for taking a look!
Beautiful build!
Thanks for watching!
Those inline fans can be safely controlled by a rheostat (fan speed controller). I'm not sure whether back pressure on the fan motor from limiting air flow with a valve will have any ill effect on the life of the motor or not, but using a dial may prove more precise when calibrating the air/fuel mixture. Maybe its overkill, but as an old friend once said, "if its worth building, it's worth over building." Also, craigslist might be a good place to find those fans for cheap. The smallest one that I'm aware of is 4". If you go that route, include key words like: hydroponics, or indoor growing, as these fans are commonly used for environmental control when growing cannabis indoors.
The fan I went with was $70. It’s more powerful than I need and it works great. Even if it dies in a year or two, it was $70. 🤷♂️
Love the build. Mine is very similar in design and works beautifully thanks to your help. You spoke about the backpressure psi. I'm curious what yours would be set at for forge welding in this and do you open your air valve fully? Thanks
I run at 11 psi to forge weld and that’s with a 3/16” orifice. I still have room on the fan to go higher. Thanks for watching.
Thanks mate
Hot damn! I'll definitely switch to a ribbon burner with my next forge. Two extra style points for the swirl and for the #wfijoke 🤣
Great build, Denis!
It turned out even better than I hoped! Thanks for checking it out, Sven!
That thing is Awesome!!
Thanks for checking it out, Phillip!
Just stepped over this amazing video. I‘m planing to build a ribbon burner and the a new forge too. This one one gave me some decent information. Thanks! Can you tell how the forge did its job the last 2 years?
I use it regularly and it’s going strong. I used it just yesterday to teach a cumai class. 😉. Thanks for watching.
I was worried at first about the swirl. But, when you turned it up I was like, " yeah baby " LOL
It turned out way more powerful than I expected! 👍
This helped me get into forging thank you very much !
I’m glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Love your work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Damn. Great job.
Paul
Thanks for watching, Paul!
Really sweet. Good job.....
Thanks for checking it out!
Nice looking forge. You are correct that pressure does not equal flow rate and the two are not interchangeable. However your comments about the regulator, closed system and measuring back pressure are incorrect.
How so?
estoy mirando este video en repeticion una y otra vez, gracias maestro!
¡Gracias por seguir el canal!
Nice job my Forge friend
Thanks for checking out the build, Barry
Quick question! At 3:58 you say to not put holes in the baffle plate directly at the fuel/air input but then at 7:27 the baffle has holes in it where you said not to put them! Is there any reason behind this at all?
I figured I’d put a few. I just meant don’t put lots of holes there or all the flow will just go to the center of the burner only and not get to the ends
Well they clearly didn't affect the burners performance, great even looking burn! Thanks for the answer :)
I love it, much better design.
I wish I would have got that type of fan now. I almost did but bought the green centrifugal fan instead. It works fine but I would like a little more air so I can dabble in some crucible steel.
Did you notice if this forge pushes a lot more heat out of the front than the other? Mine is very similar but it’s round and the swirling effect really pushes the heat out of the front. Hands get quite hot when using tongs even with welding gloves on.
No, I haven’t noticed it push more heat outward. I usually have the doors closed though, so maybe. Thanks for watching, Erik!
@@TyrellKnifeworks yeah it only happens when the doors are open. What’s the heat up time to welding temp? Curious to how yours performs compared to mine. My refractory is only about 3/4”- 1” thick on top of 3” of wool.
@@erikcourtney1834 I haven’t timed it with the gas/air turned up high, but I suspect about 5 mins. It’s crazy hot in there with the 13” burner. Total coverage, which is the main reason I built it this way.
@@TyrellKnifeworks that’s pretty impressive. I’m about 8.5 mins. With a 3x9 burner in an 8x20 chamber. It doesn’t like to go below 1700* either. Don’t think my blower has enough power to push past the partially closed valve and still have enough volume to mix with the gas well. Think I’m going to try the inline blower now if it’s working good for you. I was skeptical at first when looking at them.
Awesome build, busy building something similar, biggest problem for me is the blower, but think I might get the one you showed through Amazon 👍👍
It’s a great blower and cheap! You do need a cone to resize it down to the pipe, but it has more power than I need. Thanks for checking out the build, Jacques!
Man, I have everything I need to builder a Venturi burner forge but I keep seeing these ribbon burner forges! Now I’m left thinking I should not waste the refactory and Kaowool on a Venturi system, if I’m going to end up wanting to upgrade to the Ribbon system… hmmm. Thanks for the video! I’m going to have to check out your patreon, you keep posting top notch videos! The new shop tour was great, gave me some inspiration for my own shop organization.
I would definitely say to forget the Venturi build. They take more fuel, are louder and not as efficient. The ribbon burners are easier to build, you have more control (because you can adjust both the gas and the air separately) and are better to forge weld with. Thanks for watching, Tyler!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Hey Denis i wanted to say that your videos are really inspiering. Ive been interested of knifemaking for some time and are slowly building up a small place in my sheed for it. Ive allready got my venturi burners and are about to build the forge. i was thinking to perhaps in the future upgrade to a ribbon burner but now im also hesitating and woundering if i should go for this straight away, the venturi burners i can allways put in my small backup forge that i made as a trial piece with some weedburners.
The big thing i wounder is if you can give any insight into blowers and what one should be on the lookout for when getting one as thats the bigges piece that i would need to source to go with a ribbon burner insteed.
@grimmner I would suggest this blower: amzn.to/3xXxBEY. I would recommend a brass gate valve instead of the variable speed controller on this one, btw.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for the wery quick respons and and the same note curse you now i have to make a Ribbon burner;)
Seeing as its not that big of investments to make a Ribbon burner setup it feels like a no brainer, better controll, heat and less fuel consumption.
Again big thanks for the reponse and all the great videos, there are more of your builds and gadgets that are on my to do list:)
@@grimmneryou’ll definitely be happier. They are actually much easier to build and run.
So the swirl is better than the burner directly impinging upon the work piece on the floor? I assume it mixes things up better to more evenly distribute heat. I'll watch more videos - just thinking of building a forge for my 10yr old.
It’s never a good idea to have the burner directly on your work. That just burns the carbon out of your work. Thanks for watching.
Best forge ever!
Thanks for watching, Jamie!
Great build.
Thanks for watching! I couldn't help but notice your name says "Muriel Livermore". Do you live in Livermore, CA by chance?
Pulling out those straws! Very satisfying. Great work! Looking forward to more videos!
Thanks for checking it out, Akim!
Why not introduce your gas near the air blower, to allow it room to integrate and mix well? What is the disadvantage of having a long pipe with air and gas mixture?
It really doesn’t matter. I’ve updated this forge and added a PID controller so the current setup is a bit different. Thanks for watching.
Great build Denis! So many useful tips! I am very OCD, so I love your attention to detail. The improvements that you made from the previous forge, make a lot of sense, and will definitely pay off! Thanks for sharing my brother! 💯😎👍🏻🔨🔥🗡️
Thanks for following along, Bob!
How did you close the back end of the forge? Very nice build!!
There’s a hanging door on the back. It hangs has notches that hang on a bar so you can raise it lower it. Thanks for watching.
Awesome build. You need to name it !
The Tyrell-o-saurus , maybe?
Yeah true, I should name it. I already have Elvis Press-ley, maybe this is the hunka hunka burnin love. 🤣🤣
Great video, as always. Starting my build, but had a question. With your 13" burner, you had a 2" intake. If my burner is shorter would I reduce the size of my intake as well?
Thanks
I would not reduce the pipe. You will have a gate valve anyway so better to have more flow than you need and just restrict it. Thanks for watching.
17:00. Is that a Deadpool coffee mug? I don't even drink coffee but I want that mug
It sure is, I have Deadpool everything, shirts, socks, mugs, underwear. 🤣
@@TyrellKnifeworks lol, I love I dude!
Fantastic, I’m not in the US so I will be sourcing the materials here in Tasmania. Can I ask what the gas consumption is v your old forge? Great work, love your knives.
I think it’s comparable to my old forge in gas consumption. It’s way hotter and more distributed heat though. Thanks for watching, Richard.
Thanks. Really appreciate the feedback.
Nice build 🔥
Thanks for watching!
Kaowool is more itchy than pink insulation! I had to use blue tape to pull put all of those little suckers!
It’s certainly not good for you. You should use gloves and a respirator if you handle it more than a little bit.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I did, but it still made its way thru my darn shirt!
Has the elevated forge height worked for you?
Doesn't it blast heat in your face?
It’s the perfect height. You want to be able to see into your forge to look at your workpiece. Thanks for watching.
Think sourdough bread when mixing refractory, good tip!
Yeah, maybe a bit thinner than that though. Thanks for watching
Love your channel, I was wondering if you would share with me where you get your stencils?
I get my stencils from IMG Electromark. Call them instead of email, they don’t answer email well. Thanks for watching, Jason.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thank you sir.
Great video - Thank you. I am certainly going to give this a try. Cheers
It’s an easy build technically, it just takes time. Thanks for watching
8:17 "It is not good for you" Slight understatement there.
Thanks for checking out this build, Raymond.
Would have loved to see how good it works on heating billets
You’ll see soon enough, James. Stay tuned!
Awesome build Denis. I'm looking to build one about the same size. How much dry refractory did you use for it?
Cheers Toby
Hey Toby, I used about 25-30 lbs of kastolite on this one. Thanks for watching.
Hi, I own a pallet remanufacturing business and we go through saw blades all the time and I was wondering if there is any value in the blades? I am looking for creative ways to get rid of them and possibly reduce my overhead buy selling the dull blades at a fraction of what I get them for.
It totally depends on the steel the blades are made from. Check the manufacturer. If the are 15n20 or L6 steel then it would be worth it. Likely though they are bi-metal and made by combining steels so the blade itself isn’t good knife steel, just the teeth.
Just stumbled across your channel, great video!! I love the way you did the door ill have to add that to mine at somepoint. One question I had, what was the reasoning for "sleeving" the brass gas tube into the 2" pipe as opposed to using a tee fitting with a reducer and threading it in? Not trying to criticize, just genuinely curious!
It would have been better to thread it. I wanted a cap at the end because there’s a 3/16” orifice so there’s a little back pressure and I couldn’t figure out how to thread it at that point. I’ll probably redo it at some point and just thread it in. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks hey man thanks for the quick reply!! I have a very similarly sized forge to yours with a ribbon burner and I have the 1/4" brass just threaded in, that's why I asked! I have some solid brass roundstock laying around...I might drill a 3/16" hole through it and solder it inside the 1/4" brass tubing and see how it works. Thanks again!
Nice work!
Thanks for taking a look!
Bad ass skills sir. Amazing
Thank you! I appreciate that.