Let me simply say...i have learned so much from you good sir! I have a 82 gl1100 i also have spent more time turning wrenches than throttle and so many of the issues youve overcome..i as well face with my own project... Water pump is my NEXT repair as it acts like its running hot after a short while and its not circulating coolant as it should so shes parked... Had i not been a subscriber and seen how much was actually involved in the water pump replacement i would have ordered the part and i would have been up poops creek... I had no idea it bolted from behind and required the case to be removed! You are the man! Youve saved me some head and heart ache and im extremely thankful! Please keep up the great content!!!
Well no one wants to go down poops Creek 💩! 😀 And I am thrilled that my mad struggles have been helpful. The water pump repair is complex enough to be challenging, but totally do-able and highly rewarding! Good luck with your wing! I am hoping you (& I) will be spending more time on the throttle next season 👍
I suspect you have a GL1100 engine, but it's either a 1980 or 1981 engine. (I also suspect that the engine was not from a standard Goldwing - every standard I've seen has "GL 1100" on the valve covers.) The GL1100 1982 and 1983 engines had the neutral safety switch in the front transmission cover. The 1980 and 1981, as well as all GL1000s had the neutral safety switch on the bottom right of the crankcase (page 18-3 and 18-18 of the Honda Service Manual). IIRC, your Goldwing was a 1982 before the engine swap. The neutral safety switches all work the same - the neutral safety switch just connects to ground when the bike is in neutral. If that was a GL1000 engine, in the stock configuration, it would have points off the left cylinder head. On the GL1100 engine, there's a plate that covers where the points would be.
Yes, the points thing makes sense. The ignition and everything else about the engine appear to be the same as the original GL1100 engine, but I have yet to find the neutral switch. I will check the bottom right of the crankcase. Thanks for the tips 👍
@@HooptieDoodle : Dug further, and it seems that the 1980 GL1100 engine serial numbers began with "SC02E-2000047" and the 1981 GL1100 engine serial numbers began with "SC02E-2100002". If the engine serial number starts with "GL1E-", then it is a GL1000 engine. But if you don't have the points on the left cylinder head, them I'm really interested in how they did it.
@@jessemeyer3052 Well done 👏 and many thanks to you. I am stoked to have finally found the neutral switch!! 😀. It is on the bottom right of the case right behind the engine mount. There is a small blue wire that looks like it was in a knife fight. My points are on the rear of the engine and the it's an SC02E-2002xxx.
Thats a interesting conundrum.... A bike that doesn't know it's identity... Well its a GL1000 That identifies as a GL1200.... LOL To bad I can't post pictures here, I take one of my 82 when I do the water pump hopefully next week in detween snowblower tune ups...lol
Hey hoopte, love the vids btw. I have a question for you. I do not have access to a welder. So i was going to tap some holes onto my bikes frame to mount a new gas tank and some other small items. Do u or anyone think this would work? Or would it compromise the strength of the frame?
I have been told in the past by wiser folk that this will compromise the strength of the frame. I immediately think: what about brazing? It's cheaper as it can be done with a propane torch and filler rod and should be strong enough for a gas tank mount, it's also a good skill to have. www.bernzomatic.com/Projects/DIY/Braze-Metal-Together?gclid=CjwKCAjwo9rtBRAdEiwA_WXcFrGlI_u71bpJSp4OwoS9SwMU-Y5NIGKJZMk3XyI7kEeC8wq66rwLDBoCfvMQAvD_BwE
I pulled apart by GL1100 didn't know what the neutral switch indicator was The replacement part I had did not have it the linkage behind it I figured I just unscrew a couple things and it'd be okay it didn't look like that was really doing much later on finding out The bike didn't shift no more trying to put it back together but cannot find any kind of diagram can you please help me
If you go to an OEM parts dealer website and look up "shift drum/ shift fork" for your model year you should be able to find a parts diagram showing how it goes together. Here is an '82 www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/506f84f0f8700229747b8ef1/shift-drum-shift-fork
Let me simply say...i have learned so much from you good sir! I have a 82 gl1100 i also have spent more time turning wrenches than throttle and so many of the issues youve overcome..i as well face with my own project... Water pump is my NEXT repair as it acts like its running hot after a short while and its not circulating coolant as it should so shes parked... Had i not been a subscriber and seen how much was actually involved in the water pump replacement i would have ordered the part and i would have been up poops creek... I had no idea it bolted from behind and required the case to be removed! You are the man! Youve saved me some head and heart ache and im extremely thankful! Please keep up the great content!!!
Well no one wants to go down poops Creek 💩! 😀 And I am thrilled that my mad struggles have been helpful. The water pump repair is complex enough to be challenging, but totally do-able and highly rewarding! Good luck with your wing! I am hoping you (& I) will be spending more time on the throttle next season 👍
I suspect you have a GL1100 engine, but it's either a 1980 or 1981 engine. (I also suspect that the engine was not from a standard Goldwing - every standard I've seen has "GL 1100" on the valve covers.)
The GL1100 1982 and 1983 engines had the neutral safety switch in the front transmission cover. The 1980 and 1981, as well as all GL1000s had the neutral safety switch on the bottom right of the crankcase (page 18-3 and 18-18 of the Honda Service Manual). IIRC, your Goldwing was a 1982 before the engine swap.
The neutral safety switches all work the same - the neutral safety switch just connects to ground when the bike is in neutral.
If that was a GL1000 engine, in the stock configuration, it would have points off the left cylinder head. On the GL1100 engine, there's a plate that covers where the points would be.
Yes, the points thing makes sense. The ignition and everything else about the engine appear to be the same as the original GL1100 engine, but I have yet to find the neutral switch. I will check the bottom right of the crankcase. Thanks for the tips 👍
@@HooptieDoodle : Dug further, and it seems that the 1980 GL1100 engine serial numbers began with "SC02E-2000047" and the 1981 GL1100 engine serial numbers began with "SC02E-2100002".
If the engine serial number starts with "GL1E-", then it is a GL1000 engine. But if you don't have the points on the left cylinder head, them I'm really interested in how they did it.
@@jessemeyer3052 Well done 👏 and many thanks to you. I am stoked to have finally found the neutral switch!! 😀. It is on the bottom right of the case right behind the engine mount. There is a small blue wire that looks like it was in a knife fight. My points are on the rear of the engine and the it's an SC02E-2002xxx.
So it looks like, according to your very helpful book, it's a 1980 1100 yippee!
@@HooptieDoodle : Glad to hear it. But full disclosure: Got the serial numbers off the GoldwingDocs forum, where WingAdmin listed them.
Thats a interesting conundrum.... A bike that doesn't know it's identity... Well its a GL1000 That identifies as a GL1200.... LOL
To bad I can't post pictures here, I take one of my 82 when I do the water pump hopefully next week in detween snowblower tune ups...lol
The bike has been full of mysteries.
Nice work my friend 👍👌
It was a good try. A neutral light would be nice, but...
Hey hoopte, love the vids btw. I have a question for you. I do not have access to a welder. So i was going to tap some holes onto my bikes frame to mount a new gas tank and some other small items. Do u or anyone think this would work? Or would it compromise the strength of the frame?
I have been told in the past by wiser folk that this will compromise the strength of the frame. I immediately think: what about brazing? It's cheaper as it can be done with a propane torch and filler rod and should be strong enough for a gas tank mount, it's also a good skill to have. www.bernzomatic.com/Projects/DIY/Braze-Metal-Together?gclid=CjwKCAjwo9rtBRAdEiwA_WXcFrGlI_u71bpJSp4OwoS9SwMU-Y5NIGKJZMk3XyI7kEeC8wq66rwLDBoCfvMQAvD_BwE
Of course be super careful with flames and gas tanks, but it sounded like you are adding mounts to the frame and not the tank - which is smarter 👍
I pulled apart by GL1100 didn't know what the neutral switch indicator was The replacement part I had did not have it the linkage behind it I figured I just unscrew a couple things and it'd be okay it didn't look like that was really doing much later on finding out The bike didn't shift no more trying to put it back together but cannot find any kind of diagram can you please help me
If you go to an OEM parts dealer website and look up "shift drum/ shift fork" for your model year you should be able to find a parts diagram showing how it goes together. Here is an '82 www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/506f84f0f8700229747b8ef1/shift-drum-shift-fork
Great video! You've got a new Subscriber!
Thanks! Great to have you along for the journey 😀