I believe the biggest problem with the 4cyl wings was the stator. Fix a bad stator required engine removal which was not too hard but, geez! Turns out all you needed to not have this issue again was to put silicone in the connection plug to prevent water from screwing up the entire charging system.
Thanks for the clear explanation. I haven't had the problem on my 1983 GL1100 yet, but I ordered a regulator up front so when it occurs I immediately can exchange the regulator. Thanks for sorting this problem out. Greeting from the Netherlands👊😎
Great video. I rebuilt a 1978 GL and after a lot of education it runs like new. Great bike. Your video reminded me of the points VS electronic ignition, and I think I'm going to go electronic. I post on GW Docs from time to time. Great, great site. Saved my butt a few times on the rebuild. And as always, 2 oz of MMO per five gallons of ethanol-free gasoline. Rocket fuel, guaranteed.
A lot of older vehicles, with alternators, also use 7v instrumentation regulators for the fuel and temp gauge circuits. I am currently driving a 90's era Mitsu that has such a regulator physically built onto the side of the fuel gauge. It's a mechanical looking affair, similar to the old style regulators they used to use for cars with generators.
The 1200 is a good bike but I had a problem with the stator multiple times on my 1984 model. I have an idea on how to make a RAT ( Ram Air turbine) basically it'll keep the battery charged and it has a regulator of course . These are quite common in aircraft by the way. The RAT could be stardard equipment on the 1200s.
Yea, Well considering my 82 MPH ends at 85, I did a full on Speedo.Tach,Fuel Gauge and Voltage gauge replacement. All in $200 bucks roughly and now my speedo goes to 150 and I do not need a 7v regulator anymore. Why re-invent the machine with this stuff? Just make a needle indicator based on the 12v system and no need for fancy smanchy crap. Now My gauge cluster looks brand new and I put the fuel/volt on the faux tank right in front half of divided opening. Works beaaaaaaaaaaaauuuuuuuuuutifully. Besides I tried that 7v rag stuff and getting the cluster apart is not so easy and God help ya if you break off one of those short azz wires.....................
I have a 1980 GL1100 I bought a year ago. It came with the aftermarket car style alternator kit installed on the left side of the bike. It can sit and idle basically forever and maintains the battery. My question is do I no longer have to worry about this 7volt regulator messing up my gauges?
PLEASE ADVISE! I've got a cherry 85 Ltd. Ed., but I believe has the stator issue, maybe the 7v reg. Q: should I replace the system, or switch to Poor Boy Alternator if the 'Jay Leno' upgrade restoration mindset prevails?
Totally wrong. Stators in four-cylinder Wings by definition put out full power, all the time. Any power not consumed by the bike and accessories is wasted by shunting it to ground by the main regulator, which creates a ton of heat - in the regulator. The stator doesn't know - or care - how much electrical load there is, it's putting out full power, all the time. The primary killer of stators is lack of oil changes. Acid buildup in engine oil will eventually eat the shellac coating on the stator windings, and they short out.
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Thank you for what you do for the Community.
WingAdmin, I love when you explain thinks. Thanks.
I believe the biggest problem with the 4cyl wings was the stator. Fix a bad stator required engine removal which was not too hard but, geez! Turns out all you needed to not have this issue again was to put silicone in the connection plug to prevent water from screwing up the entire charging system.
That's not what causes the failure
Love seeing these old bikes on the road. Glad someone is making parts to keep them going.
Thanks for the clear explanation. I haven't had the problem on my 1983 GL1100 yet, but I ordered a regulator up front so when it occurs I immediately can exchange the regulator. Thanks for sorting this problem out. Greeting from the Netherlands👊😎
Had to replace a couple of these. No big deal and had no problem finding new ones. Maybe just lucky.
Great video. I rebuilt a 1978 GL and after a lot of education it runs like new. Great bike. Your video reminded me of the points VS electronic ignition, and I think I'm going to go electronic. I post on GW Docs from time to time. Great, great site. Saved my butt a few times on the rebuild. And as always, 2 oz of MMO per five gallons of ethanol-free gasoline. Rocket fuel, guaranteed.
A lot of older vehicles, with alternators, also use 7v instrumentation regulators for the fuel and temp gauge circuits. I am currently driving a 90's era Mitsu that has such a regulator physically built onto the side of the fuel gauge. It's a mechanical looking affair, similar to the old style regulators they used to use for cars with generators.
These were used on Mopars in the 70s. It was called IPVR, Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator. I had to replace many of them.
Thanks for your instructional helpful videos, the way you do it it's great.
Greetings from Reseda Ranch California USA.
Fantastic! Thanks a lot!!!
Invaluable info to know.
I have one on my 1977 GL1000 over here in Scotland 😀
The 1200 is a good bike but I had a problem with the stator multiple times on my 1984 model. I have an idea on how to make a RAT ( Ram Air turbine) basically it'll keep the battery charged and it has a regulator of course . These are quite common in aircraft by the way. The RAT could be stardard equipment on the 1200s.
Thanks
Yea, Well considering my 82 MPH ends at 85, I did a full on Speedo.Tach,Fuel Gauge and Voltage gauge replacement. All in $200 bucks roughly and now my speedo goes to 150 and I do not need a 7v regulator anymore. Why re-invent the machine with this stuff? Just make a needle indicator based on the 12v system and no need for fancy smanchy crap. Now My gauge cluster looks brand new and I put the fuel/volt on the faux tank right in front half of divided opening. Works beaaaaaaaaaaaauuuuuuuuuutifully. Besides I tried that 7v rag stuff and getting the cluster apart is not so easy and God help ya if you break off one of those short azz wires.....................
I have a 1980 GL1100 I bought a year ago. It came with the aftermarket car style alternator kit installed on the left side of the bike. It can sit and idle basically forever and maintains the battery. My question is do I no longer have to worry about this 7volt regulator messing up my gauges?
Unfortunately, you still need the 7 volt regulator to drop the ~14 volts coming from your alternator down to the 7 volts that your gauges require.
Would any of this also apply to the 1983 GL650I Silverwing ?
Yes! There are actually quite a few different Hondas that use this same 7 volt regulator.
My 1930 Ford has the same issue.
PLEASE ADVISE! I've got a cherry 85 Ltd. Ed., but I believe has the stator issue, maybe the 7v reg.
Q: should I replace the system, or switch to Poor Boy Alternator if the 'Jay Leno' upgrade restoration mindset prevails?
Poor boy works perfectly
hi, i am thinking of buying a gl1000 from the 70s, any tips? is there any year that may have more issues than others?
best conversion is single carb like a weber.
Miss my Wings.
Gold wings could not support all the extra lights etc owners hung on them. High load high heat . Equals stator failure
Totally wrong. Stators in four-cylinder Wings by definition put out full power, all the time. Any power not consumed by the bike and accessories is wasted by shunting it to ground by the main regulator, which creates a ton of heat - in the regulator. The stator doesn't know - or care - how much electrical load there is, it's putting out full power, all the time.
The primary killer of stators is lack of oil changes. Acid buildup in engine oil will eventually eat the shellac coating on the stator windings, and they short out.
Switch over to the Po Boy Conversion and run as many lights you want, No problem.