I've used guitar strings for cleaning brake lines too! I made a tiny loop in the end to make the string/wire more blunt so it glides through the line more easily. I also rotated it while working it through and then flushed with brake cleaner so you did. Worked well. Rode the bike for a year after (b4 selling it) and brakes worked well. I also have used a small piece of Scotch Brite on the end of a drill bit to "hone" the inside of gummed up master cylinders. Love your channel.
I would seriously consider replacing those 40 year old brake lines and probably the front brake pads as safety items. Both will have deteriorated over time, I would not trust the brake lines to not bulge/burst under high hydraulic pressure. Brake pads are less crucial but there's the asbestos concern, they probably won't have the same properties as modern ones and would probably fade/wear a lot quicker than a new set
I came here to say exactly this. They may not look old on the outside but the hose quality from the 70's is definitely worse than today and this would be an upgrade as well. Also very cheap. No reason not to do it. Edit: forgot to say that any contaminants inside the old hose may react badly with the brake fluid, which is hidrofobic. That alone would make me want to replace the old hose.
I had the same "just clean up the master cylinder and piston seals" philosophy until someone near and dear said the following: "Guys have no problem dumping $400 on a chrome pipe that does nothing but annoy their neighbors, but won't spend $40 to replace the caliper seals and plunger in their MC, which will actually help them stop before careening into a busy intersection." Perspective. Spend the $40!!!
Lubricate master cylinder parts with brake fluid, not WD-40. Also, caliper and master cylinder rebuild/seal kits are cheap insurance that you won't have to redo this whole job again. I just did my whole front end for about 50 bucks, that's with OEM Honda parts, probably could have gotten the parts cheaper aftermarket.
I really like your content and presenting style, maybe just me but I am not a big fan of the moving camera for long periods. I find it quite dizzying and it's hard to focus on the parts you are talking about. Bikes coming along great!
Cool progress! For mine I didn’t want the pressure switch and got after market controls for front brake. Braided line no salvage for me. And new pads but the caliper was good and clean somehow.
Did you install shorter cables for the throttle and clutch? If so, which did you buy? Which handlebar did you buy? I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ 750H LTD and looking to do something similar to this.
Perhaps it wold have been better if you'd shown the actual disassembly process rather than just the parts laid on the bench afterwards, same goes for the re- assembly !
I dont want to be a know it all, because I know stuff all, but I did here that you shouldn't use WD 40 on brake seals because it swells up the rubber and I think that's how I stuffed mine. I do enjoy your videos very much. Because you do up bikes all the time, you should look at purchasing a Vapor Honing Machine, you can get small units from Vapor Honing Technologies.
First comment. Gotta say I love what you're doing with the big twin. Haven't done my bike's brakes yet, but now that the master is bubbled up. You can try gravity bleed or pump bleed. If that doesn't work Car master cylinders are bench bleed by holding pressure port while pumping the handle letting the fluid bypass your finger and closing when you let off. Repeated until no more bubbles bypass your fingers. Hope it is not needed (but on car masters, it won't bleed right until the master is bubble free). Hope you keep it up I enjoy your videos.
Great content and advice that you give us all. Thank you so very much. Whenever I do a brake rebuild, I purchase speed bleeder valves. They have a check valve built in which allows you to do the job completely by yourself, flawlessly.
Get new break lines, these are to old to use them, the rubber gets hard after this many years. Also you could use steelflex... they would give you better breaks response.
It's a good progress/update video, but if anyone with the same bike wanted to "learn" anything, they wouldn't because you skip all the steps in between.
@@ClassicOctane That'd be great Taylor. In comparison, I learned quite a bit from your video where you sourced/fixed the headlight to the ground wires. Keep up the good work.
@@ronanteague293 I run oval K&Ns with 125 mains, 50 pilot, Y22 needles on the 4th clip from the top so they sit a little higher (if your needle doesn't adjust just shim it with some number 4 washers) fuel screw is about 2-3/4 turns out and 1 into 1 pipes. Throttle response is great and she kickstarts pretty easy (: idles smooth right at 1,100 RPM
I've used guitar strings for cleaning brake lines too! I made a tiny loop in the end to make the string/wire more blunt so it glides through the line more easily. I also rotated it while working it through and then flushed with brake cleaner so you did. Worked well. Rode the bike for a year after (b4 selling it) and brakes worked well.
I also have used a small piece of Scotch Brite on the end of a drill bit to "hone" the inside of gummed up master cylinders. Love your channel.
I would seriously consider replacing those 40 year old brake lines and probably the front brake pads as safety items. Both will have deteriorated over time, I would not trust the brake lines to not bulge/burst under high hydraulic pressure. Brake pads are less crucial but there's the asbestos concern, they probably won't have the same properties as modern ones and would probably fade/wear a lot quicker than a new set
Jimmy Rustle agree!
I came here to say exactly this. They may not look old on the outside but the hose quality from the 70's is definitely worse than today and this would be an upgrade as well. Also very cheap. No reason not to do it.
Edit: forgot to say that any contaminants inside the old hose may react badly with the brake fluid, which is hidrofobic. That alone would make me want to replace the old hose.
@@DirceuCorsetti that's the truth right there
Would have been nice to see you take the rear master cylinder apart. I've never seen that done, and would love to see it. Keep up the great work!
I will make sure to show more of that going forward.
I love that bike as is
I checked your parts listing on Amazon and I noticed you didn't have that brake cylinder on there! Would you mind shooting me a link?
Just added it but here is a direct link. amzn.to/2P8E3wj
wd 40 on brake parts. do you know whats in that stuff? neither do i. ha ha why not use brake fluid
I had the same "just clean up the master cylinder and piston seals" philosophy until someone near and dear said the following:
"Guys have no problem dumping $400 on a chrome pipe that does nothing but annoy their neighbors, but won't spend $40 to replace the caliper seals and plunger in their MC, which will actually help them stop before careening into a busy intersection." Perspective. Spend the $40!!!
Ofc if the seals are all dry and dead you do it. But if the seals are alive you can try them pretty well after rebuilding the brakes.
Lubricate master cylinder parts with brake fluid, not WD-40. Also, caliper and master cylinder rebuild/seal kits are cheap insurance that you won't have to redo this whole job again. I just did my whole front end for about 50 bucks, that's with OEM Honda parts, probably could have gotten the parts cheaper aftermarket.
I really like your content and presenting style, maybe just me but I am not a big fan of the moving camera for long periods. I find it quite dizzying and it's hard to focus on the parts you are talking about. Bikes coming along great!
Really enjoy your builds but that stuff inside those lines is not just old fluid it's rotten rubber from inside the lines.
That guitar string trick saved me $50 on my 1981 kz440! Love your builds!
Need to fully bleed the brakes in my CX500, so thanks for the video! The brake systems are very similar. 👊🏽
Cool progress! For mine I didn’t want the pressure switch and got after market controls for front brake. Braided line no salvage for me. And new pads but the caliper was good and clean somehow.
It isn’t really worth salvaging old brake lines. Get some new rubber lines for $20 each.
Did you install shorter cables for the throttle and clutch? If so, which did you buy? Which handlebar did you buy? I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ 750H LTD and looking to do something similar to this.
I was doing the brakes on my 79 Honda CX500 and the brake caliper won’t fully disengage anymore anyone know why?
Perhaps it wold have been better if you'd shown the actual disassembly process rather than just the parts laid on the bench afterwards, same goes for the re- assembly !
“A big ole booger of brake fluid”= LMAO, Taylor!
Is it good to spray wd40 on anything that is rusted or is something else better or both or not at all. Who knows
Are you seriously mounting a shit Chinese master cylinder (in addition, designed for max 500cc motorcycles) to such a powerful motorcycle?
I have hundreds of miles on the bike so far and the master had been working perfectly.
I dont want to be a know it all, because I know stuff all, but I did here that you shouldn't use WD 40 on brake seals because it swells up the rubber and I think that's how I stuffed mine.
I do enjoy your videos very much.
Because you do up bikes all the time, you should look at purchasing a Vapor Honing Machine, you can get small units from Vapor Honing Technologies.
You always use word "worst case scenario"... Well, great build man. From Brunei. Where is Brunei? Asia. Brunei Darussalam.
First comment. Gotta say I love what you're doing with the big twin. Haven't done my bike's brakes yet, but now that the master is bubbled up. You can try gravity bleed or pump bleed. If that doesn't work Car master cylinders are bench bleed by holding pressure port while pumping the handle letting the fluid bypass your finger and closing when you let off. Repeated until no more bubbles bypass your fingers. Hope it is not needed (but on car masters, it won't
bleed right until the master is bubble free). Hope you keep it up I enjoy your videos.
Great content and advice that you give us all. Thank you so very much. Whenever I do a brake rebuild, I purchase speed bleeder valves. They have a check valve built in which allows you to do the job completely by yourself, flawlessly.
Have you ever thought about doing a honda xbr 500???.. lovely little single cylinder thumper
Now you can put those new tires on! I agree work with the original parts first. You can always replace them later.
!!!!!
Get new break lines, these are to old to use them, the rubber gets hard after this many years. Also you could use steelflex... they would give you better breaks response.
Paint the engine black... It's not a scrambler without a black engine 😉
always enjoy your videos. Nice and thorough. keep em coming
nitrile gloves at 8:06 lol
nice!
i dont know why you even bothered with the old brake lines, couple new lines and a banjo/brake light switch so can get rid of that union switch too
sorry mate, half arsed, new pads and seals is a must.
It's a good progress/update video, but if anyone with the same bike wanted to "learn" anything, they wouldn't because you skip all the steps in between.
I can try and show more going forward.
@@ClassicOctane That'd be great Taylor. In comparison, I learned quite a bit from your video where you sourced/fixed the headlight to the ground wires. Keep up the good work.
Go stock airbox! Pods don’t work on bs38 cv carbs 😔 nightmare
I dunno I've got mine dialed in pretty well. (:
Justin Carpenter can you tell me wat you set up is please?
I’m from Ireland also and It’s 5’C of damp air 😔
I’m 47.5 pilot jet, 140 main jet and 5th or last clip on the needle
@@ronanteague293 I run oval K&Ns with 125 mains, 50 pilot, Y22 needles on the 4th clip from the top so they sit a little higher (if your needle doesn't adjust just shim it with some number 4 washers) fuel screw is about 2-3/4 turns out and 1 into 1 pipes. Throttle response is great and she kickstarts pretty easy (: idles smooth right at 1,100 RPM
Looking good so far 👍
That green looks so nice, are you going to leave that alone?
I will probably give it a good clean and polish but leave it green for now.
It looks great as it is, but it’s entirely up to you 👍
Great vids and great bikes, you do a good job 👏