My Son's INSANE Lighting Plan Has Me NECK DEEP In Wire...
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- Опубликовано: 18 ноя 2023
- Hey Gang! Back in action with some wiring! The wiring for this project is anything but simple, but when we're done it's gonna blow everyone away!
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Easy hint: On the wall with the TV, include a 1 inch conduit from the outlet top down to a lower level for video/audio cables you will eventually run. Hide them in the wall.
Smurf tube is what they useto be called
I would use at least a 2 inch pvc pipe or rated conduit. It's easier to fit multiple HDMI's and also Samsung's newer silly fiberoptic/power cords. I've installed quite a few Frame TV's with this thin, super expensive, extremely fragile wire with kinda large bulky non-detachable connectors on the ends, that definitely would not fit in 1 inch pipes.
Late to the party (I work nights) so I'm gonna drop this here and in a separate post in the hopes that y'all see it. The TV box looks too high up the wall. Any AV Pro will recommend centering your TV with your seated eye level whenever possible. Hanging them higher leads to neck strain as your constantly looking upwards for prolonged periods of time.
2nded... I've seen this way too many times myself. Eye level and as if you were in a seated position too. So agreed, calls for a lower box, really.
Damn this idea is kinda 5head i like that, hope jordan sees this lol
So i noticed you guys didnt run any datacables (CAT cables) for wired internet. I would 100% recommend for the tv/media center, office desk area and maybe on the celling and the garage celling for an access point to get that good wifi coverage.
Go with heated floor for the bathroom! Also don’t forget power for automated shades.
Sounds like a Mike Holmes project 😂
Don’t forget power windows!
Auomated shades usually run on battery
@@stevem8535Battery is an option in a retrofit, but hardwired is superior in every way for new construction (motors are quieter, never having a dead battery is amazing).
I was inspired to do full renovation on the whole house. We did Schluter heat in the bathroom floor. It was actually very easy and is so luxurious when it’s cold. Not sure how cold it gets there but it’s not hard at all….it will be a nightmare to try and do later.
18:40 underfloor heating or bust. You can just leave it running 24:7 and have a lovely ambient temperature all the time and it will evaporate any water that gets left behind when you step out of the shower.
As mentioned elsewhere, with all that wiring work, dont forget data....fiber to Ethernet switch under the stairs...cat6 runs x 3 in the apartment and 1 in the garage.
Smart tube from telco Demark to under the stairs, then one into the main house
Me when I get a youtube notification: "Ooh I hope it's Stud Pack".
Today I was pleased.
18:38 - You really don't need a heater in the bathroom in Houston. It just doesn't get cold enough often enough to be worth it. You'll use it four days a year.
Yep - heat in the floor in the bathroom if you're using tile. My parents had radiant heat in their house, and it was one of its best features.
Although I have to say heated floors in south Texas sounds funny.
But I’d rather have that than a heater unit.
The additional benefit is that it makes the home cooler in the summer because it conducts heat so easily instead of absorbing it. Hot in the winter, cool in the summer.
Y'all, I appreciate a new Stud Pack video whenever we can get one. Since I spend WAY too much time watching RUclips, I am kind of amazed that you can get the videos out on the schedule you do. Sure, there are some folks who put out a video or two per day, but those are generally only creating reviews and opinions. You guys are doing "This Old House" (well, "This New House", but I have watched you for a couple of years now, so you often did renovation) in real time. Not with a year of production and 6 months of editing.
So, thank you. I continue to enjoy what you folks are doing and showing us.
I would like to mirror this sentiment
install 2x10's or 2x6's in the wall at the tv spot for backing... makes it much easier to mount. Back framing is crucial step guys you got most of it don't forget the last of the small stuff..
Backing for cabinets helps a ton too
I agree if they can do blocking to have mount the TV it does a lot more than strapping a person to just a couple of studs I did the same when I had to tear out a wall for our tv
@@bubblespoof999 yeah, better for positioning and integrity and a lot more especially if you have a heavy and large TV. Backing for surround sound speakers, etc its is helpful too. If you can avoid those stupid drywall screws now it saves you so much long term
Paul doesn’t forget the backing. That’s a pre-drywall step he’ll get it done.
@@ChrisPerrin-kh1rb we will seeee
What about Christmas light outlets in the soffits? Cmon Jordan! I’m shocked!
Maybe I missed it, but you should consider adding a 240v outlet in the garage for a future electric vehicle charger.
I would hit up Ubiquity for the wifi/router/cameras/access control. A lot of things worthy doing before drywall
There is no need to apologize you guys. This isn't HGTV, this is real world and raw experiences! That's what makes this so great and relatable! Y'all inspire me all the time to just do the work, no matter the obstacle, on all my little projects. It's going to be an amazing day when that video comes out of y'all doing a walk through of the finished job. But the journey is just as amazing to watch!
As I was watching, all I could keep thinking was that Paul's breadth of knowledge is amazing. This is an incredible build and the way you are covering these topics is both entertaining and educational. Thanks for the great videos.
Why not also do your networking runs? You could put a switch under the stairs and then multiple drops upstairs.
Why in the unconiditioned part of the garage? I could understand if they were using old noisy rack mount network gear off ebay. I'm guessing everything here is going to b e new so might as well buy something that is suitable decible wise for the interior so they don't have to worry about it getting cooked to death in that unconditioned part of the garage.
@ikkuranus unless they would be using a POE switch which might have fans and generate some heat, hiding it in utility room would be fine unless you dont care about networking cables and such in a closet but i dont recall seeing one in the layout of the garage structure. Besides, they plan to insulate the place like crazy.
@@ikkuranus I think the networking "closet" should be under the stairs.
POE would be awesome.
@@iteagle03 I doubt they are even going to run network cable at this point. (besides that which is between the modem/ont and router assuming it's not some AIO)
I'd put the shower light on a SEPARATE switch. I like it to be a little dark when showering since makes a calmer space. And love having a color changing bulb in the shower so can select different colors depending on mood.
I'd switch the bridge and sconce switches by instinct people will flip the switch closest to the bridge thinking it's the bridge light
Even if the fan has wifi still needs a switch, hate the idea of being required to use a phone to turn on lights fans etc around the house
Agreed on the switch leg for the ceiling fan. WiFi control is great, but when that proprietary controller burns up and a replacement is unavailable (or ridiculously expensive) you’ll have options.
@@mikezimmermann89 Yeah, I heard that about the fan and was like nah. I want a flippy switch on the way as a primary. Why am I breaking out my phone to turn on a fan?
Agree on the shower!
The amount of planning that must’ve gone into that wiring is insane. Love the contact.
Those buchanan crimpers are fantastic for crowded electrical boxes. I use them on all of my light switch box grounds. A tip for you when you wire the big house: Pull enough extra wire to each box so you can run the ground long to each switch and avoid the pigtails.
So for example lets say you have 5 wires in a 3-gang box. Get them all arranged, then cut two of them short where you want your connector leaving an extra 8-12" on the other three . Twist all five together with your pliers at the short length (takes just a bit of practice). Slide your crimp connector over, crimp all five together, and then you have three long tails coming out which you can go to each ground screw. No need for additional pigtails or an extra connector.
2 things for the big house you might want to add a air compressor tank, this should allow you to run more tools as well as stage the compressor farther away to remove the noise issue on video. second I recommend conduit runs with boxes to use for networking, this means when you upgrade cable every 4-6 years for new standards you can just tape onto the old run and pull through or run an additional wire easily and without drywall patching or paint.
With cat6a, you really don't need anything better, other than fiber.
This is currently true, but will it be true in 5 years? 10? 15? 20? Since so much energy is being put into planning for and preventing future problems, it seems now is the time to address when they are streaming VR content on multiple devices. @@redmatrix
Yep I'd definitely run conduit
And maybe even consider a second empty one alongside it
For the garage apartment? it's a non-starter. For the main house, they definitely want to future proof it, you know, in case in 2053 he wants to install a hologram video booth, and holo-emitters etc.@@charlesbasham3531
@@charlesbasham3531 doubt there will be any application requiring 10 Gigabit in a house, let alone more than 10 for foreseeable future, even 1 Gig is more than enough.
Consideration - put the washer and dryer under the bathroom upstairs and have a laundry chute.
That would be cool but... Have to separate living and garage spaces from vehicles exhaust and fire. Have to make the chute fire and air tight rated more $$$$. The guys are on a budget.
On top of what the other comment says, you typically Can't have laundry chutes anymore due to fire code.
Really, I didn't know that.@@evictioncarpentry2628
Upvote for laundry chute.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 What's the fire code for a laundry chute? It's an HVAC channel with a door on one end.
You should consider adding outlets for a car charger plug and larger seperate washer and dryer units, for future resale reasons.
Totally agree you need a EV car charger (or 2) Maybe you can get Rivian or a cyber truck to sponsor that build
No need for separate units for future resale. This is auxiliary laundry to the main house, and since it is going to be attached and integrally connected for generator and service connections, it would not be ideal to rent as a separate unit.
As long as that temporary laundry has a 60amp breaker 220 it will be plenty sufficient for an EV vehicles
“Please help” 😂😂😂 love this series so much.
Where's your wiring for ethernet and cameras/security system? 😉
It's looking amazing, guys!
I made the switch to WAGOs and the boxes come out soooo much cleaner. Highly recommend them!
Where you been stud pack 🏴
How about internet cables
Get those shower water lines off the exterior wall! When you have a problem, your only choices will be to cut through the exterior wall, or destroy your tile work. Back up your shower plumbing to drywall.
Put a pvc pipe behind the TV to where your other appliances are
That way you don't see the cables
18:23 1,000% YES on the heated floors! If you've never experienced them, you don't know what you're missing in the cooler months. Also helps with drying out any residual moisture in the bathroom.
35:15 Yes! 👍👍
Good job on the electrical, don't forget to run a straight edge on all you studs and plane them if they bow out and add 4' long drywall shims to fur them out where needed. on tall walls check up and down the wall. it would be easier before electric. By the time you all are done with this project you will definitely need a nice long rest.
In 1974, I was a welder's helper on the pipeline, but work was slow. Helpers had to hustle their own work between jobs. I went to work for a home builder who went to my church. He made me a foreman by the time we started my third house. On the fourth house, it rained the night after we lay out the slab. An old man working on a house next door told me to use concrete dye instead of chalk, and I wouldn't have that problem. I tried his advice. Concrete dye will bleed through most floor coverings. Stick with chalk dust and clear paint! 😊😊
Floor. Feels great and heat rises.
Don't forget your human and sometimes you need a break. It's Thanksgiving so I hope you guys have a long weekend and not work too hard before you go back at it and start tackling work again. Happy Thanksgiving!
I’d recommend changing to a 4 gang box at the top of the stairs. That way you can have a dedicated switch for the fan with speed control and separate dimmer switch for fan light if wanted. Especially nice if you want any sort of smart home switches.
I was in the middle of watching a video but stud pack came on. 😂😂. Jordan only needs a 2-burner stove. He only boils water. Thank you Mrs. Stud Pack/mom Stud Pack 😂😂
Just a tip for you guys, When you're ripping out the boxes, I do the same thing you do in multi-gang boxes where you push all the wires over to one side and then bundle them up and cut them short so theyll fit and push back. However with the grounds, I leave the ground wires twice as long for switch leg and travelers cables if you're on the power side of a 3 way. Why? because when I twist those grounds together I will have all the grounds almost as long as the box is wide (just like you did) but ill also have 3 pigtails obviously longer than the rest. I peel those 3 wires back and cut the rest to length. twist them all together and put a crimp sleeve on it. all your wires are bundled up, no big wire nuts, and your pigtails are already there for your switches. For an extra bit of OCD you can then fold those long grounds back to where the mounting holes for the devices are and cut them to length again. The only downside is that you have a bit more wire scraps to clean up.
I love the meticulous detailing and planning of Paul on any and all of his projects
It's good to see you using quality lighting. I ALWAYS use Halo lights on my jobs. I don't bother with anything else. The retrofit LED can lights are a lifesaver. Super easy to install and they look good. You have 3 colors of light to choose from with a flip of a switch.
Amen on the Halo retro-fit can lights! I transformed my gloomy 60-year old living room (only wired for table lamps) with 6 of those; and, because they’re “cans” the LED lighting elements are recessed and (seated or standing) the lights don’t catch your eyes with glare.
You mentioned having a backup for six circuits so you must be considering a Tesla Powerwall. 2 years ago when I put in solar I was also going to install a power wall and then found out about a competing product that I ended up installing and I'm happy I did and I'll tell you why. The NeoVolta backup I installed is 24 kW. Uses LFP batteries so there's no fear of fire and can control 14 circuits. Except for 240 volt AC I run my entire house including two microwaves, too mini splits, and more everyday. Other benefits is you don't have to remove the entire unit if there's a problem. It's all modular but the Tesla power wall must be removed and shipped out.
My NeoVolta has been running flawlessly for over 2 years. It charges with solar and then at 4:00 p.m. it runs the house on the battery until the next day. It's all automatic My last month electric bill was $5 for electricity delivery and zero for electricity generation. Manufacturing for neo Volta is in San Diego California and the CEO there his name is Brent.
26:21 as always, I love the orderliness and thinking ahead to avoid FU’s during future work processes.
Another awesome video, Paul. I did have to stop @ the 14 1/2 minute point to make this comment. I highly recommend placing 2 screws in the ends of your box blocking. It will keep your blocks tight & from ever spinning slightly when drywallers knock into them while doing their job. If you're only going to put 1 screw in each end, don't place your screws in the center of each end. This will keep your boxes perfectly level with the drywall. Another nitpicky thing from me is to suggest using plastic romex staples instead of steel staples. One of my biggest pet peeves is electricians using steel romex staples. I can't begin to tell you how many trouble shooting calls I've had over the past 45 years of doing electrical work that involved steel staples driven through the wire inside of romex & causing a broken or shorted wire. The majority of those calls were made years after the wiring job was completed. Now to get back watching your excellent video... Oops, an edit to my comment @ the 17 minute & 22 second point in your video. If you ever want to switch both the fan & the fan light with that 14/3 wire, I suggest installing a 4 gang box instead of a 3 gang. I personally like separate switches instead of the stacked 2-in-one switches. When installing 4 gang switches I always place a backer board behind the box to keep it flush with the drywall.
That electrical doesn't quit... WOW! Fantastic. I worked as an electrician apprentice for a short while while I was in college and wired up industrial control panels that did a ton of things... and let me say that you've got perhaps as complicated as a situation there as one of those... if not more complicated. I like the way you used the sheathing for labelling the wires in those switch boxes, it's going to make figuring out which circuit is which so much easier. Looking forward to the next video and seeing more progress. Cheers! P.S. The Like button is energized now.
@Stud Pack, hey guys, don't forget to run some cat6 cables around the building. Think about where your tv would be, and where your internet comes into the building. Also, are you going to have security cameras. POE cameras are great, and when used with WIFI cameras you could have an entire security system with CCTV.
Suggestion, outlets in garage, add another outlet above at 4 feet above the ones installed. Floor outlets always get covered. Piggy back on the GFI outlet.
Great job guys! With all the tech Jordan plans to install in the build, remember to wire in your Cat 7 - Gigabit Ethernet Cable. You will want wired connections to all TV locations especially in the office. They are way more reliable and faster than WiFi! Good luck with the rest of the build.
I thought I would see a 240v for charging an EV. I know not everyone is onboard with EVs but it would be nice if you have a guest over with an EV.
A Mach-E for Jordan and an F-150 Lightning for Paul. Just makes sense.
Crimper, Daniels Manufacturing makes similar tools. Daniels Manufacturing makes all kinds of connector and wire repair tools for the Aviation Industry. I worked with them for my 20 year Navy career and some of their tools I used was over 40 years old and still looked brand new.
Hi Stud Pack crew. I was just throwing out a video idea. I think a video of Paul's career history would be pretty interesting. Always hear him talking about being in California I'd love to hear his journey to where he is today.
I never worry when you're late. I wish the average builder was even half as disciplined, careful, and orderly as you three! 🎉 Do you plan on using exterior installation here? Saw an older video from Riseinger about it and it was so cool to see an attic with no loose insulation.
Using DALI or similar systems for the lighting would probably save you some wiring effort and provide more options to change things in the future without having to rewire
On the garage door openers Outlets. You still need an outlet on the ceiling for the wireless lights that comes with the wall mounted garage door openers.
All you need is a 120-volt outlet to run those lights.
Due to the light communicates with the garage opener wirelessly. But it still needs 120 volt power to work. From the ceiling.
Floor heat in the bathroom cannot be overrated.
I know it would be a whole lot more expensive, but having a low voltage control system would be really cool for this build then you could control all your lights just with your phone and set up all sorts of settings for lights from smart dimming to automatic switching of lights, love how the house is progressing the scat pack team is the best keep it up 👍
Until they stop working or the manufacture goes bust.
You can just do smart switches. Works great with alexa and google speakers, plus you can always use them as normal switches.
And you can setup Alexa on a cheap tablet and have touchscreen access for a fraction of the cost of using a professional setup that will be outdated soon.@@JasonCarr1979
30:04 throw another receptacle in that under stair cavity, isolated from the rest of your general power wiring for a UPS and network rack.
Also whilst you haven’t sheeted, throw in some conduits to bring your ELV wiring down for cable, networking, telecoms. Then terminate it all nicely in a rack under the stairs.
I’d also run a conduit into the bridge so that you can pull a fiber line in the future to connect a second network switch in the main house for all the IP devices over there.
At a minimum I would expect: wifi access points, IP security cams, door bells. All on PoE fed from a network closet in each dwelling and then a fiber backbone between the two.
Yes!
You guys should run a couple of ethernet cables to each wall down to your control closet for and future devices and led strip you would want to hook up. Also you should run a bunch of hdmi cables around the garage and apartment into the closest and keep all your video equipment in that one control room to keep the heat and sound of the equipment out of the main area and only in the control room. I made the mistake of having all my computers and power supplies for light all around my house which makes my house warmer and you can hear fans everywhere, I just recommend you guys keep all your power supplies and controllers in the one closet to prevent any annoyance. 😄🙂
@studpack, I was watching this wiring video and I noticed that there was no mention of any type of network wiring for your high speed internet feed. If you're planning to do major RUclips file transfers, you'll need a strong and fast network for all of that stuff. If you haven't done so, contact your high speed internet provider for consultation on the best plans to implement that into the new garage and the house when you guys get to building the new house.
Love seeing all the details you guys show in your videos! Been following this project from the start and can't wait. One thing to think about is running plenty of Ethernet to areas where you could want cameras/TVs/access points/doorbell/access control etc. Much easier to get setup now then do it later on.
Agreed. I love IP cameras with PoE.
My son set mine up on wifi using a mesh router system from Netgear. Works great.
Wireless speed is enough for most applications. Cell tower speeds are increasing every year. Wifi-6 is already here.
20:00 I dont think you are allowed by code to have 3 wires under a staple. I think 2 is the max! Maybe code is different there!
NEC doesn't specify how many wires under a staple, that's typically specified by the staple manufacturer. The inspectors I've worked with don't seem too worried about this.
While I haven't looked at the code exactly, they ARE using long staples which might be approved for the purpose. It is worth a check. They have plastic things that secure wires that handle more than three romex cables if the staple isn't allowed.
Shout out to my 2 burner cooktop brother. Another great video!
One thing I'd recommend is having a good water filtration/softener setup in this house. If the throne is heated and the water is heated (nifty, never heard of that before unless it's a bidét) getting as much rubbish out of the water as possible will absolutely help with years of trouble-free operation of your spigots, heaters, piping and connections :)
Don't forget to run wiring for heated & cooled door knobs. Nothing like touching a door knob that's too hot or too cold. Get the antistatic option as well.
haha
Lol
StarTrek doors with the ‘whoosh’!
Goddayum. didn't know that was a thing! heating/cooling a door knob sounds lame tbh but the antistatic would a game changer.
@@erikgutierrez3613you are highly regarded.
If you're doing tile in the bathroom then you could use Schluter Ditra-Heat. I'll have that in mine, but it's not installed yet so I can't tell if its awesome or not. I'm hoping it is lol
You’ll love it I’ve installed hundreds of Ditra heat.
I failed to consider that under the marble master (sorry, primary 🙄) bathroom floor. But it’s upstairs and ok so far. Dont think I’ll be ripping that up.
Why is the exhaust from the bathroom going all the way to the other side? You’ll need a very powerful fan, which will be noisier, and more moisture will ultimately linger in the duct causing mold eventually. Or you’ll need a booster along the way which is more trouble, more noise. Exit it as close as possible from where it is and it will also make it easier to take it out if you ever want to do a quick sanitization of the duct.
If you are using crimps for your grounds, leave your wires longer and leave three hanging out after the crimp to go to the switches.
As someone who wired two of our four bathrooms for heated floors I HIGHLY recommend you go that route! It is just a nice detail and it reduces the chances for mildew growth by drying the floors quickly.
You guys need some 12 ft ladders 😂
Edit: please PLEASE run 1/2" EMT to a 4" box (with a mud ring) in the rafters for WiFi. You will thank me later ❤
I would use 3/4 or 1 inch EMT. In case you have to run multiple cat 6 cables with the rj45 already made up. 1/2 inch works but if you're going to run pipe, might as well use a bigger one. Or use poly tube. We call it surf tube (it's bright blue) and it works great for lots of turns. Not fun to pull through it...but it works
@@pazfightsdirty1146 would it be better if the RJ45s cable run thru pipes for those routing? presuming that the standard will become faster than the cat 5/ 6e currently recommended.
@@pazfightsdirty1146 it's only 1 run. If they want to do it smart, they would have 3/4 from [a stub down above] the data cabinet to a quad behind his desk, then continue on with 1/2" to the rafters.
@@PrograError it's to prevent damage and also allow the insulation guys to come in before the data guys. They are moving at breakneck speed on this site so installing conduit will give them some flexibility
@@bobbiac tho it does bring some future proofing benefits...
As a cabinet installer I screw base cabinets to wall at 5-8 and 30-34 inches off the floor ..uppers at 60 at bottom, and 2-4 inches from the tops which depends on their height.
Blocking is appreciated in those planes,plumbing and electrical however do not belong there.
Every wall needs a pre-drywall picture for the following trades.
Mark all vertical stud/plumbing/electrical locations on the the floor in corresponding paint.
Add blocking in bathrooms for glass wall terminations,handles hangers etc.
Same for stair railing.
Kitchens need layout of the cabinets + crown moulding projections on the floor... with a flat ceiling before installing ceiling lights.
Invariably fridge cabinet crown always covers part of a can.
Mark it out,mock it up,take pictures before its covered up .
Ask Matt Risinger about a cabinet screw going into his wall mounted toilet from the back side.
An entire tiled wall came down to repair.
Anyone can play with new design and techniques, but fail to plan is chance to mess it up dramatically.
Piss poor planning pisses off those who to fix things not in their scope.
I don't know is not the correct response.
Your electrician did a great job in adding loops for change orders.
I am constantly moving outlets near built-ins beside fireplaces ,and kitchens.
Floor heating is worth it. Ever since we moved in a house with floor heating, we have appreciated that technology.
You might consider mounting the outlets on the ground floor of the garage slightly above 48" in case you you sheet goods leaning against the wall.
Don't know about "sheet goods", but I agree that 48" is a better height for general purpose garage receptacles.
Nice call. Getting to outlets behind a stack of plywood or drywall sucks. I would personally make sure the bottom of any high ones are above 49" so you can still place them on chunks of 2x4. I would consider a couple outlets on the ceiling, too, so you can use retractors or mount equipment later.
I agree garage receptacles should be higher. I also put a long power strip on the wall near my workbench.
Of course I think about your videos every day, but when it's been some time since you posted last, I'm not pissed, I'm rather worried something bad might have happened and I just hope you guys are fine and it's not a serious problem. Love you guys!
Wondering if you guys are considering wiring up the house for networking as well while you have the electrician/cabling hats on. Especially if you're looking at a video editing and network storage/PoE security cameras/ PoE video doorbells all that good stuff, now would be a good time to start laying out the 10g copper around the place, then you can keep the network cabinet in the garage when the house is built and also line up your generator wiring to the cabinet for power outages etc.
Caddy sells mounting bars for all boxes. Doesn't matter what your mounting to either. They make it. Some inspectors won't allow you to use wood or anything other than what is rated for holding that box. Hopefully your area doesnt require that. Love complicating lighting though. We use cat 6 cable for switch legs now. Its great
Loved how clean those electrical boxes are. One tip. When you're happy with the WAGO's tape the levers. They have a tendency to snag and open when you didn't want them to. A little tape insurance is a beautiful small detail to avoid any unwanted box fiascos!
I have heated tile in my bathroom floor in the South and it’s good most of the time. There’s about 10 days when I want a little extra heat and I plug in a $45 space heater. You could put it on the counter and plug it in on that appliance outlet if you don’t have a plug by the floor. The good thing about a portable space heater is Jordan can move it to wherever he needs it, like under his desk or aimed at him in the kitchen. In the spring put the heater back in the box and stick it under the stairs until the next winter.
Floor heating in the bathroom is a must! Nothing like warm tootsies on a cool morning.
Darn tootin!
What a beast of a lighting plan! The things I wished I had in my home is in-floor power near my couches. I added a large network box with power behind where my TV went. This worked great to hold your Apple TV, smart media devices, gaming consoles, and network switch. You will be ready for a frame TV. Speaking of network switch, I recommend running ethernet for internet and POE cameras. A home server rack is recommended or get the largest network box you can find. Wifi is always getting better, but ethernet is still king in my house. I wished the LV guys ran multiple ethernet runs to my TV and office areas.
Forgot to mention to run power to your windows and a tablet dashboard. If you want smart/electric rolling blinds, you'll need power. Otherwise, you will be recharging the batteries every few months. With all these smart devices, you can control them on the phone, but it will be a hassle for guests. I have a tablet mounted to a wall with dedicated recessed outlet behind it. For your garage doors, look up Euro style roll up doors. You'll avoid the tracks and makes a cleaner look for your ceiling.
Hi Studs! I share and feel your pain. After many handyman renovations, and being long time landlords and you know the issues you get with rental properties, we decided to build a new home, well a side-by-side actually. live in one & rent/sell the other to pay off the mortgage. great plan! I can retire 6 years earlier. then COVID hit, supplies went through the roof, trades disappeared and we are now over budget and 15 months behind. On top, once the World started up again, Trades disappeared to work on major GOV backed projects and the "little guys" wouldn't touch a large scale project such as a double house build. So here I am, on a 8 hour work day, then I flip my spinney chair for toolbelt and start 4-6 hours construction work, sometimes sleep, occasionally eat, and I'm not posting it all for the public to see! Only downtime we get involves shopping trips to look for bargain deals on fixtures and fittings. I just spent $20 this morning on some glue and screws to finish off a task....
You guys are monsters! Respect to you all.
You guys ROCK ! I think Paul is a little OCD but I can see how you anticpate future issues and just being several steps ahead. Jordan I hope you appreciate the knowledge your father has and welcome the time you have with him on this project. I will continue to watch and appreciate the effort you all three put into this massive project
Don't forget about network cables! Dedicates outlets for workspace and media center, cables for wifi access points and preparing a loop to the main house. You could install a small patch panel under the stairs.
Thanks for the great content!
Hey stud pack. I'm a low voltage technician. How about running data cables for hard wiring for TVs and office areas. A lot more reliable then wifi. Also cat 6 cable for ceiling mounted access points. A small data cabinet in that staircase.
You need to get network runs in place too. Make sure you dedicate some space for a network and A/V cabinet and run conduit if possible to nake upgrades easier in the future. I'd place speakers with rough in boxes too if you're looking for whole home audio.
Man, wiring a house has sure changed from when I was an apprentice electrician back in the late 1960’s. We were just starting to install 100 amp mains, most houses were 60 amp.
Trust me, you want to add a backing board for the TV. You don't want to limit your options on mounts. I work in home theater installation and have ran into way too many brand new homes that we ended up having to mount to a center stud and toggle the edges. Just do it and save the hassle.
Now, don't forget to add two brush plates/boxes with a larger conduit to pass your HDMI cables from your tv down to whatever entertainment center you choose. This will really give a minimal look and also once again save tons of headaches. You don't want cables hanging everywhere and running cables through insulation is no fun.
I would be glad to answer any questions on the AV side [Speakers, Wiring, ECT]. Sonos has some great simple whole home audio products that would really make this space pop.
P.S. I would lower the TV box down around a foot or two. You want your livingroom tv to be centered at eye level. On the other hand this can conflict with furniture, so you have may have to mount it higher than what is considered "ideal". At the end of the day its your space so don't get discouraged by the "TV TOO HIGH" crowd.
I suggest a wired in security system. Cover doors and use motion detectors for other areas.
Consider running two (or more) Cat6 cables to all the locations that will have devices that need internet / network access - including TV/media cabinets, office/computers and ceiling/in-wall Wi-Fi hot spots and have them all terminate in a network closet/cabinet that can hold some patch panels and switches.
Especially useful when it comes to having fast and stable internet for video editing and uploading.
Floor heat in the bathroom!
My thoughts on the heat in the bathroom 🤔 from a woman’s standpoint and a cleaning standpoint. #1 Heat rises, so it’s a no on the ceiling heat for me. #2 wall heaters get dusty and need to be cleaned regularly and after awhile the heat can discolor the cover plates, so they are a no for me as well. #3 Floor heat 😀 this is the way I would go, but it would need a little extra something if I did it! It is a slower process of heating and I am impatient. With that said, I would put it on a thermostat that is programmable. That way it can come on in the morning before I get up and bring that floor up to a desired temp and shut itself back down. No mus no fus no smelly dust burning you get with electric wall heaters, no roasting ceilings, just nice even heat that you install and enjoy!
At 33:42 in the video you might want to consider running some wires to the windows for some motorized shades/blackouts shades. I have the lutron shades in my place and i love them! Oh 1 other question I have is have you discussed in-ceiling, walls or outdoor speakers? I also love having that at my place.
Everything else is awesome in the video and I'm looking forward to the rest of this build!
Don't forget to run Ethernet Cat 7 (future proof) before paneling.
I realized not only do I like the amount of detail for any given task.....but also the rational for that specific detail. The logic behind the detail always makes sense to me.
Bathroom - suggest you have a ceiling fan, nothing drys the shower and towels out like a ceiling fan. 2nd suggestion, assuming you'll be on propane - a flush wall mount unit.
Thanks again for sharing this journey!
I've done a number of radiant floor bathrooms. All with hot water, not electric, but people love them. The only thing to watch out for with radiant floor is how hot it is. 90F is about the max you want in a bathroom. Make sure the flooring can tolerate the temp.
If you want to do a TON to help reduce the sound transmission from outside, get some putty pads and put them around the outside of all of those electrical boxes. It's a relatively cheap and quick product that helps to immensely improve the STC rating of walls, effectively increasing the "soundproofness" of a structure. Double it up with foam or MLV pads behind all your covers, and you'll get a lot less noise coming through those walls in the future.
I haven't read all 1,000 comments but I vote strenuously for floor heat. When you get out of a nice steamy shower, stepping onto some cold tile is just startling. I've put in 2 bathrooms with electrically heated floors and it was worth getting dirty at that house just to be able to stand on a warm floor. Just be sure to turn that heat on a half hour before you use it. I heated the room with the house forced air but heated ME with that floor!
Floor heat! That feels so good.
When time is money anymore for everyone, I think it's cool you're taking the time to explain everything for folks like me.
Make sure to run Ethernet wiring for having internet access points hardwired and for computers run cat6a and put more jacks and runs as it’s cheap now but impossible once you drywall
If you want help designing a network for the house I am happy to advise
Depending on their future needs (NAS in the garage to store their stock footage and more), it might be wiser to even go for cat6a which can do 10GBps. 1GBps is not enough for modern machines that often have 2.5GBps Ethernet connectors. Also, they're not wiring a full office, so the extra cost shouldn't be too bad.
And as those lines would be the ones going to the house, it's best not to have a 1GBps bottleneck there.
Yes . Correct although if they aren’t planning on anything cat 6 is cheap so won’t add a lot of cost and is better than nothing but you are absolutely correct
Dont hammer in staples anymore..I did that for 15 years and now i got the milwuakee staple gun. Life saver especially for your main house.
Are you considering motorized blinds for those huge windows? Dont forget the low voltage for them.
Love the Stud Pack videos. You guys do awesome work and pay attention to the details that matter to us DIY’ers. One suggestion for us viewers is creating a playlist for each build and/or numbering the videos in each build series. I’ve often gotten to the end of a video and wondered when you had completed installs shown in the background, only to discover I missed a few videos. With so many great videos it’s easy to miss one in the series or watch out of order.
@21:13, you used a utility knife to strip sheathing. If anything slips, you have a lot of sharp, pointed blade headed toward places you'd rather not have close to a moving blade. Try a hook blade in that handle instead. If that gets too close to your thumb, it only pokes a small hole that requires a small square of duct tape instead of stitches. An old guy showed me that more than 30 years ago