You have a lot of good information for newbies. I have a few upgrade suggestions for anyone getting into 3d printing and considering the Ender 3 model. 1 and 3 are cheap and almost necessary in my opinion. 1. Replace the original bed springs with silicone rubber "springs". Once you get the leveling set, they won't change. You may want to check it once a week, but after they initially compress, they pretty much stay put. 2. If you are still concerned about bed leveling get a BL touch or a CR touch auto bed level. I believe that all of the Ender models now come with a 32 bit motherboard and adding a touch sensor is fairly simple. 3. Consider changing to a a Capricorn PFTE bowden tube because it can withstand higher temps than the original white tube. The white tube degrades after a while and can cause binding of the filament and clogging. 4. If you want to print a lot of PETG or anything that takes more heat than 240C, get a bit-metal heat break. I suggest the one from Slice Engineering. It's a direct drop in and it will allow you to turn the nozzle temp up to (claimed) 450C with no degradation of the bowden tube from heat. 5. If you think that you might want to print flexibles like TPU, convert to direct drive. Creality makes a conversion kit that's relatively inexpensive, there's also a Micro Swiss conversion or there are other complete extruder/hot end/nozzle replacement options. Direct drive extruders have a much shorter filament path and there is no compression of the filament that causes print issues and clogs. 6. Consider a hardened steel nozzle. If you want to print anything abrasive like carbon fiber reinforced filaments it's a must or you will be changing brass nozzles a lot. I've been using the same steel nozzle for almost 2 years. To me, half the fun of 3d printing is upgrading/customizing your printer.
I bought an Ender 3 V2 Neo about a month ago. The self leveling with CR touch seems to work pretty well. I leveled it manually the first time, then I auto level if I ever move the printer or put significant force on the bed. I'm considering hotend/bowden tube mods to print with higher temps for different materials and better layer adhesion, but so far I've been able to carefully select filament that will work well at or under 230c. This model can supposedly go up to 260 (250 safely from what I've read) but I don't feel like pushing it. I will take a look at that bi-metal heat-break, sounds like a good solution.
@cheizaguirre5494 Bambu labs. Honestly though, Im glad I went with ender 3s before I got my A1. I am far more prepared for any issues... which WILL happen with whatever you buy. Its just these ender 3s are so cheap, it is perfect for learning the ropes before you start spending thousands on printers and filament.
bed leveling is one of the biggest struggles for beginners. Ender 3 or 3v2 are still great value for 3d print farms or people who had some experience. I highly recommend Ender 3 S1 for slightly higher entry point but it eliminates lots of hurdles for beginners.
Thanks for the comment! That is solid advice. Most people would probably be better off starting with a self leveling machine to ease the learning curve.
I have the original Ender 3, Ender 3 v2, and Ender 3 S1. Of the 3, the original is my go to printer. I’ve had it for 4 years and it has never failed to print quality items whereas the other two, not so much. Good video BTW.
Very ineresting video. I did the same thing many years ago. After using a less known printer (didn't work well), I bought a Ender3 V2 which worked great! I did the same learning then upgraded to BL touch, diferent bed springs, aluminum extruder housing, Jyers software, magnetic bed plate, etc. It worked great so I bought a second one and did the upgrades to it also. After I went to an Aviation Maintenance Conference last March and heard the FAA rep talk about using 3D printed parts I had to find a different printer. I ended up buying a QIDI Q1 Pro (good value). I gave my Ender 3's to my son and grandson. The Q1 Pro is going to be a new learning because of the slicer you use, but hey what heck. Anyway, thank you for the video, interesting and you msounded like me when I got the Ender(s). Good looking garage!!
Hello, and thanks for the comment! It sounds like you did a lot of upgrades to your machines. I still think the ender 3 is the best beginner printer, but I just got a Longer LK5 Pro, and even though that is still a budget machine, the touch screen is a great upgrade as well as how quiet it is. I hope you are enjoying your Q1 Pro and happy printing!
I just changed my nozzle to 0.8mm. Have to tweak Cura settings for 0.8 mm nozzle as well. I use it for non-toy prints that don't require tiny details. My prints are now 2.5x faster.
Nice, I might think about doing that with one of my enders. Most of the stuff I print for my shop is just funtional, doesn't need to be perfect at all.
Yes, this is a good start for 3d printing, and have big potential too. If you have hands growing from the right place. But it can be used in unmodified state too. I bought Ender 3 two years ago and would buy it again. It is very easy in modification, and there are a lot of instructions and upgrades. Only choose wisely what you do = ) If you go into upgrade path better buy second printer for time saving. So you can easily reprint upgrade if something does not fit. My first upgrade was autooff feature, you can use printbed to switch the switch which will cut off the power. = )
Preach on, brother :o) The first ever item I printed was the Benchy boat. It was pre-loaded on a micro SD card that Creality shipped with my V2 Neo ("Cura"? What's that??? I didn't know squat... ;o) So, shove tha card in and select "Print"... And then walked around the blasted thing for 2 and a half hours watching it grow. Magic :o)
I started printing with my Ender 3 a little over a year ago .. things I wish I knew back then; Bed leveling with a feeler gauge (0.2mm) is so much easier than with a piece of paper ... and I have much beter first layers after leveling with a feeler gauge. Also, how much noise the fans make ... I got the printer in my bedroom where I also watch TV ... but now I had to turn the TV up. After a while I just replaced the fans with Noctua fans. Also decided last week to start try printing TPU, which I found out is much easier with a direct drive setup ... so, I modded the printer to a direct drive setup. Ofcourse this also means you run into other problems ... like how to manage the new cable setup ...
Just started off with 3D printing, great tips, wish I'd watch it few hours before... :) Got there anyway, but would be less painfull. Thanks for sharing!
The Ender 3 V3 SE has recently been released and it has a ton of improvements and upgrades over the original Ender 3, and indeed a lot of other similar 3D printers. It has auto bed levelling with a strain gauge to automatically set the Z offset, plus a Sprite direct drive extruder and dual Z axis lead screws. It really does look like the perfect beginners 3D printer, and for a ridiculously low price too - £189 delivered in the UK! I'm tempted to get one myself to use alongside my Ender 2 Pro.
I'm new to the hobby and I have the V2 Neo with a CR touch and self leveling bed, but I had to level it manually when I first put it together. There is probably something I don't know, but why would you try to level it while printing? I set the z-offset with a couple sheets of paper, then continue to use the paper as a feeler moving the nozzle position and using it as a z-height reference. I had the same problem with my first print (which was PLA). It was stuck too well. I couldn't get it off. The problem was nozzle height. I had the nozzle too close to the bed. It actually slightly etched the bed. Personally, I don't like fusion 360, and I don't like the way they are nerfing the free version, so I use FreeCad and Blender. When I'm modifying an existing design, it's best to use Blender, or import it into blender and touch things up, then import into FreeCad and do precise work. If I'm designing from scratch, I just start in FreeCad. I'm not very good at modeling yet, but that's what I found to be the simplest to work with. I get nervous about printing un-attended too. I have a couple IP cameras monitoring it, and I installed OctoPrint on a Raspberry pi so I can control it remotely. I also hooked it up with a smart plug, so I can cut power from my phone. It works out pretty well. Most of my prints take about 8 hours, so it's nice to be able to start one on my lunch break at work, relaxing in bed before going to sleep, etc. I think I might pick up a fire alarm and put it over the printer, then use an Amazon Echo with a routine to cut power to the plug if it hears the alarm.
Hello, since I don't have a self leveling bed, adjusting the bed while it is printing let's me fine tune it the best as I can see exactly how it is laying down the plastic on different parts of the bed. I agree about Fusion 360, I just keep using it because I don't want to learn anything else. I built a fireproof enclosure for my printers, so I never worry about leaving them going. It is nice piece of mind!
Here's my take why they are nerfing the free version of Fusion 360: The 3D printer market wants everyone to buy one and get them accustomed to their software. For example, I just got my Ender 3 V2 for $99 w/ 3.5 % sales tax at Microcenter with a $9 kilogram spool of PETG. As the 3D Printer market customer / user base starts to grow, they will want to start increasing profits. I believe the words "free edition" will have a lot less meaning very soon. With the way other markets have behaved (Example: "one dollar" Inkjet printer but the ink is "a hundred dollars"), I am not surprised that they plan on slowly phasing out free features at cost. I just hope the 3D printer market doesn't pull off HP Inkjet Level Shenanigan's, like "DRM for Filament". Otherwise Louis Rossman is gonna pull his grill out for some nice roasted criticism...
I wish I could’ve seen this video before I got mine 😅 I have been struggling with this bed leveling thing 🫠 also having problems to print when it comes to rounds shapes. I’m trying all suggestions I found on internet but it’s been tough 😢 I’m focusing only on understanding the printer and I have no idea when I’ll be able to learn how to do my own custom 😅
Hello, it can be frustrating at first. I would try printing with pla at 220 end temp and 60 bed temp. Use some hair spray first if you have a glass bed and adjust the four corners as needed once it starts printing. Good luck!
Boy, oh boy. My suggestion to beginners is to buy something designed to get you started out of the box like an Ender 3 v3 SE. Should have no getting set up. If you are a tinkerer or a maker, do the same then use your newfound knowledge to setup less user friendly printers for a huge discount. Guess what gets returned more than anything else? Ender 3, 3 v2, etc.
I just got an ender for Christmas. My first print was the bunny that comes with it. I believe I have my deck too high. The bottom of the bunny wasn't closed off.
Mesh bed leveling, a feature that can be enabled with some basic firmware changes, has been a huge timesaver for me. I think it's underrated. It's great if you don't want to go through the trouble of buying and installing an auto bed leveling system, which itself can be another failure point.
I installed the firmware JyersUI, there are several versions differing only by the type of leveling provided (I installed the most advanced one). No idea of current status however as its over a year now since I upgraded my machine and its I think not activley upgraded any longer but it works greeat on my E3V2. Lot of extra functions and bug fixes also in addition to the leveling functionality making it perform at its best and support all G code commands properly. @umepeace8679
Sorry to hear that. You could try replacing the bed springs with heavier duty ones. You also could try adjusting the bed height limit switch down a little bit. Then you would have to lower the bed, which would put more pressure on the stock springs. The bed should stay in place better this way. Good luck!
3D LAC works great on glass. Also, an enclosure will only help print quality if you go with ABS, ASA, Nylon or other high-temp filaments. With PLA you want as much cooling/fresh air as possible. If you switch to a PEI print surface, don't use glue. Also, PETG and glass surfaces are bad news together.
Hello, I haveint tried using petg since I first got my ender. I am guessing I just had the settings wrong for it, and lucked out by getting the settings right with PLA. Just been printing with that ever since.
@@dennhoATWORK prints stick to the bed. Prints stop working. PLA stops feeding. Quality of print is 3/10. So, everything is wrong with it. Literally there is nothing good about it.
Totally disagree, mine has been faultless and has printed heaps of stuff. I have CR touch which levels the bed very well, I only use PLA or PLA plus and don't really fiddle too much with my Cura settings. It is a great beginner printer.
Glass Bed I use (Affiliate Link)- amzn.to/3pfedPs
You have a lot of good information for newbies.
I have a few upgrade suggestions for anyone getting into 3d printing and considering the Ender 3 model. 1 and 3 are cheap and almost necessary in my opinion.
1. Replace the original bed springs with silicone rubber "springs". Once you get the leveling set, they won't change. You may want to check it once a week, but after they initially compress, they pretty much stay put.
2. If you are still concerned about bed leveling get a BL touch or a CR touch auto bed level. I believe that all of the Ender models now come with a 32 bit motherboard and adding a touch sensor is fairly simple.
3. Consider changing to a a Capricorn PFTE bowden tube because it can withstand higher temps than the original white tube. The white tube degrades after a while and can cause binding of the filament and clogging.
4. If you want to print a lot of PETG or anything that takes more heat than 240C, get a bit-metal heat break. I suggest the one from Slice Engineering. It's a direct drop in and it will allow you to turn the nozzle temp up to (claimed) 450C with no degradation of the bowden tube from heat.
5. If you think that you might want to print flexibles like TPU, convert to direct drive. Creality makes a conversion kit that's relatively inexpensive, there's also a Micro Swiss conversion or there are other complete extruder/hot end/nozzle replacement options. Direct drive extruders have a much shorter filament path and there is no compression of the filament that causes print issues and clogs.
6. Consider a hardened steel nozzle. If you want to print anything abrasive like carbon fiber reinforced filaments it's a must or you will be changing brass nozzles a lot. I've been using the same steel nozzle for almost 2 years.
To me, half the fun of 3d printing is upgrading/customizing your printer.
Thank you for sharing all this info, I think it will be really helpful for all!
Thank you for the important info.
I bought an Ender 3 V2 Neo about a month ago. The self leveling with CR touch seems to work pretty well. I leveled it manually the first time, then I auto level if I ever move the printer or put significant force on the bed.
I'm considering hotend/bowden tube mods to print with higher temps for different materials and better layer adhesion, but so far I've been able to carefully select filament that will work well at or under 230c. This model can supposedly go up to 260 (250 safely from what I've read) but I don't feel like pushing it.
I will take a look at that bi-metal heat-break, sounds like a good solution.
Sounds like a lot of work. Lol is there another printer u recommend 😢
@cheizaguirre5494 Bambu labs. Honestly though, Im glad I went with ender 3s before I got my A1. I am far more prepared for any issues... which WILL happen with whatever you buy. Its just these ender 3s are so cheap, it is perfect for learning the ropes before you start spending thousands on printers and filament.
bed leveling is one of the biggest struggles for beginners. Ender 3 or 3v2 are still great value for 3d print farms or people who had some experience. I highly recommend Ender 3 S1 for slightly higher entry point but it eliminates lots of hurdles for beginners.
Thanks for the comment! That is solid advice. Most people would probably be better off starting with a self leveling machine to ease the learning curve.
I have the original Ender 3, Ender 3 v2, and Ender 3 S1. Of the 3, the original is my go to printer. I’ve had it for 4 years and it has never failed to print quality items whereas the other two, not so much. Good video BTW.
Very ineresting video. I did the same thing many years ago. After using a less known printer (didn't work well), I bought a Ender3 V2 which worked great! I did the same learning then upgraded to BL touch, diferent bed springs, aluminum extruder housing, Jyers software, magnetic bed plate, etc. It worked great so I bought a second one and did the upgrades to it also. After I went to an Aviation Maintenance Conference last March and heard the FAA rep talk about using 3D printed parts I had to find a different printer. I ended up buying a QIDI Q1 Pro (good value). I gave my Ender 3's to my son and grandson. The Q1 Pro is going to be a new learning because of the slicer you use, but hey what heck. Anyway, thank you for the video, interesting and you msounded like me when I got the Ender(s). Good looking garage!!
Hello, and thanks for the comment! It sounds like you did a lot of upgrades to your machines. I still think the ender 3 is the best beginner printer, but I just got a Longer LK5 Pro, and even though that is still a budget machine, the touch screen is a great upgrade as well as how quiet it is. I hope you are enjoying your Q1 Pro and happy printing!
Excellent video thanks, I'm about to start with one of these I was given so its great to get some practical input rather than just the manual
I was just talking to some young students about 3D printing. Thanks for the info!
Great, glad I could help with the info!
Good video for me as a noob, really been thinking about 3d printing for awhile and now I'm prepared to invest in one... great info👍
Thanks for the comment...glad I could help!
I just changed my nozzle to 0.8mm. Have to tweak Cura settings for 0.8 mm nozzle as well. I use it for non-toy prints that don't require tiny details. My prints are now 2.5x faster.
Nice, I might think about doing that with one of my enders. Most of the stuff I print for my shop is just funtional, doesn't need to be perfect at all.
great info for a beginner just getting into 3D printing. thank you a lot!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video for someone interested in 3D printing. These are the same things that tripped me up when I got mine.
Thanks for watching and the comment, I appreciate it!
I like your honest summary. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment...and you are welcome!
Yes, this is a good start for 3d printing, and have big potential too. If you have hands growing from the right place. But it can be used in unmodified state too.
I bought Ender 3 two years ago and would buy it again. It is very easy in modification, and there are a lot of instructions and upgrades. Only choose wisely what you do = )
If you go into upgrade path better buy second printer for time saving. So you can easily reprint upgrade if something does not fit.
My first upgrade was autooff feature, you can use printbed to switch the switch which will cut off the power. = )
Hello, I appreciate the comment, and thanks for the advice!
Chad, This was an excellent video for us neubs. I’m thinking about about buying an Ender 3 v3 se and your video was a perfect! Thanks!
Thanks for watching...Glad it was helpful!
Preach on, brother :o) The first ever item I printed was the Benchy boat. It was pre-loaded on a micro SD card that Creality shipped with my V2 Neo ("Cura"? What's that??? I didn't know squat... ;o) So, shove tha card in and select "Print"... And then walked around the blasted thing for 2 and a half hours watching it grow. Magic :o)
Yeah, it is pretty crazy how these things work...it does feel like magic!
I started printing with my Ender 3 a little over a year ago .. things I wish I knew back then; Bed leveling with a feeler gauge (0.2mm) is so much easier than with a piece of paper ... and I have much beter first layers after leveling with a feeler gauge. Also, how much noise the fans make ... I got the printer in my bedroom where I also watch TV ... but now I had to turn the TV up. After a while I just replaced the fans with Noctua fans. Also decided last week to start try printing TPU, which I found out is much easier with a direct drive setup ... so, I modded the printer to a direct drive setup. Ofcourse this also means you run into other problems ... like how to manage the new cable setup ...
Thanks for the comment, and adding some other things people might want to think about before buying an Ender 3
so for CR-PETG i set the temps at 250c for the nozzle and 90c for the bed
Just started off with 3D printing, great tips, wish I'd watch it few hours before... :) Got there anyway, but would be less painfull. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it helped...and enjoy the new hobby!
I like the Ender 3 but sometimes when I print the filament gets stuck and knoted. I see that you have a tool on it. Dose that help?
The Ender 3 V3 SE has recently been released and it has a ton of improvements and upgrades over the original Ender 3, and indeed a lot of other similar 3D printers. It has auto bed levelling with a strain gauge to automatically set the Z offset, plus a Sprite direct drive extruder and dual Z axis lead screws. It really does look like the perfect beginners 3D printer, and for a ridiculously low price too - £189 delivered in the UK! I'm tempted to get one myself to use alongside my Ender 2 Pro.
thanks for the comment, I will check out the V3. Sounds like that might be the way to go for a beginner...and at a great price as well!
I'm new to the hobby and I have the V2 Neo with a CR touch and self leveling bed, but I had to level it manually when I first put it together. There is probably something I don't know, but why would you try to level it while printing? I set the z-offset with a couple sheets of paper, then continue to use the paper as a feeler moving the nozzle position and using it as a z-height reference.
I had the same problem with my first print (which was PLA). It was stuck too well. I couldn't get it off. The problem was nozzle height. I had the nozzle too close to the bed. It actually slightly etched the bed.
Personally, I don't like fusion 360, and I don't like the way they are nerfing the free version, so I use FreeCad and Blender. When I'm modifying an existing design, it's best to use Blender, or import it into blender and touch things up, then import into FreeCad and do precise work. If I'm designing from scratch, I just start in FreeCad. I'm not very good at modeling yet, but that's what I found to be the simplest to work with.
I get nervous about printing un-attended too. I have a couple IP cameras monitoring it, and I installed OctoPrint on a Raspberry pi so I can control it remotely. I also hooked it up with a smart plug, so I can cut power from my phone. It works out pretty well. Most of my prints take about 8 hours, so it's nice to be able to start one on my lunch break at work, relaxing in bed before going to sleep, etc.
I think I might pick up a fire alarm and put it over the printer, then use an Amazon Echo with a routine to cut power to the plug if it hears the alarm.
Hello, since I don't have a self leveling bed, adjusting the bed while it is printing let's me fine tune it the best as I can see exactly how it is laying down the plastic on different parts of the bed. I agree about Fusion 360, I just keep using it because I don't want to learn anything else. I built a fireproof enclosure for my printers, so I never worry about leaving them going. It is nice piece of mind!
Here's my take why they are nerfing the free version of Fusion 360: The 3D printer market wants everyone to buy one and get them accustomed to their software. For example, I just got my Ender 3 V2 for $99 w/ 3.5 % sales tax at Microcenter with a $9 kilogram spool of PETG. As the 3D Printer market customer / user base starts to grow, they will want to start increasing profits. I believe the words "free edition" will have a lot less meaning very soon. With the way other markets have behaved (Example: "one dollar" Inkjet printer but the ink is "a hundred dollars"), I am not surprised that they plan on slowly phasing out free features at cost.
I just hope the 3D printer market doesn't pull off HP Inkjet Level Shenanigan's, like "DRM for Filament". Otherwise Louis Rossman is gonna pull his grill out for some nice roasted criticism...
Good ideas man..👍
I wish I could’ve seen this video before I got mine 😅 I have been struggling with this bed leveling thing 🫠 also having problems to print when it comes to rounds shapes. I’m trying all suggestions I found on internet but it’s been tough 😢 I’m focusing only on understanding the printer and I have no idea when I’ll be able to learn how to do my own custom 😅
Hello, it can be frustrating at first. I would try printing with pla at 220 end temp and 60 bed temp. Use some hair spray first if you have a glass bed and adjust the four corners as needed once it starts printing. Good luck!
Boy, oh boy. My suggestion to beginners is to buy something designed to get you started out of the box like an Ender 3 v3 SE. Should have no getting set up. If you are a tinkerer or a maker, do the same then use your newfound knowledge to setup less user friendly printers for a huge discount. Guess what gets returned more than anything else? Ender 3, 3 v2, etc.
Yeah, that is probably good advice. Getting a printer with auto leveling really isn't that much more money and makes starting off so much easier.
I need to make my own stuff missing parts for stuff can I run a dual extruder with the same filament to speed things up ,with 2 nozzles ?
I actually have no idea on this...sorry!
Just got the Ender 3 V3 SE. This has an auto bed levelling function.
Yeah, it is great that they include the auto leveling now!
I just got an ender for Christmas. My first print was the bunny that comes with it. I believe I have my deck too high. The bottom of the bunny wasn't closed off.
Yeah, the first layer is very important to get right. Once you get the bed lowered, and you get the first layer right...you will be loving it!
Cool video, thanks
Glad you liked it!
I prefer PETG but it requires higher temp and I hear ender 3 does not withstand the higher temps.
I started using PETG and it did ok, but PLA does seem to work alot better on a stock Ender
@chaddiy3512 ok but because of that Ender is not for me. I prefer Prusa
@@ror-ys3qpmy ender 3 S1 pro has a 300 degree hothead.
@@sahhull is the feed tube damaged from the heat?
@@ror-ys3qp No tube... direct drive
What was the name of the bed level tester u use
Ive wached like 30 plus vids and every setup says go to prepare but i dont hava a prepare butten on my screen im getting really frustrated
Mesh bed leveling, a feature that can be enabled with some basic firmware changes, has been a huge timesaver for me. I think it's underrated. It's great if you don't want to go through the trouble of buying and installing an auto bed leveling system, which itself can be another failure point.
Thanks for the tip!...I will have to look into mesh bed leveling.
I installed the firmware JyersUI, there are several versions differing only by the type of leveling provided (I installed the most advanced one). No idea of current status however as its over a year now since I upgraded my machine and its I think not activley upgraded any longer but it works greeat on my E3V2. Lot of extra functions and bug fixes also in addition to the leveling functionality making it perform at its best and support all G code commands properly. @umepeace8679
I made mistake of buying abs when i first started printing and havent bought it since cus its too hard to print without a enclosure.
Yeah, it is really easy to buy the wrong filament and get frustrated trying to use it. I'm glad you figured it out though!
I did some research before buying my ender 3 S1 pro.
I didnt just jump in knowing nothing.
My ender 3 pro gives me a failed heating and printing hold notification. Any help on how to fix that please 🙏🏾?
Hello, sorry...I have never had this issue. Have you tried a Google search? I'm guessing someone else must have had this issue.
I use Linux any suggestions for software?
I have just been gifted one of these.
I have to level my ender 3 v2 every time I use it. Not sure why it goes out of wack.
Sorry to hear that. You could try replacing the bed springs with heavier duty ones. You also could try adjusting the bed height limit switch down a little bit. Then you would have to lower the bed, which would put more pressure on the stock springs. The bed should stay in place better this way. Good luck!
Can this machine create small accessories for costumes? I definitely buy this if it's perfect for making small costume parts
I think it could do that very well!
Have you heard if blender for modeling? I think it’s better than fusion core
I have heard of it, but I have never tried it myself.
Does it matter which hairspray you use if so which kind do you recommend
Anything with PVA as the main ingredient. Most people recommend aquanet hair spray
Yep, aquanet is what works well for me!
3D LAC works great on glass.
Also, an enclosure will only help print quality if you go with ABS, ASA, Nylon or other high-temp filaments.
With PLA you want as much cooling/fresh air as possible.
If you switch to a PEI print surface, don't use glue.
Also, PETG and glass surfaces are bad news together.
Personally petg prints smoother than pla on my ender 3
Hello, I haveint tried using petg since I first got my ender. I am guessing I just had the settings wrong for it, and lucked out by getting the settings right with PLA. Just been printing with that ever since.
@@chaddiy3512 yea petg is a bit stringy tho
P1s
CREALITY SUCKS, STAY AWAY. BE WARNED.
I bought this printer. It’s garbage. Waiting on a full credit.
Sorry to hear that, What was wrong with it?
@@chaddiy3512 it’s Chinese garbage.
What went wrong with yours, and what's a better model or brand to buy? Will he ever respond?
@@dennhoATWORK prints stick to the bed. Prints stop working. PLA stops feeding. Quality of print is 3/10. So, everything is wrong with it. Literally there is nothing good about it.
Totally disagree, mine has been faultless and has printed heaps of stuff. I have CR touch which levels the bed very well, I only use PLA or PLA plus and don't really fiddle too much with my Cura settings. It is a great beginner printer.
So basically you wished you knew how to print before even printing, good luck with that!😅
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
How do you advise to learn to print without a printer?
O well,it was nice of him to tell us I kind of smelled trouble coming with filaments and leveling dint mind hearing it before i get regret 😤👍