So, saw in several comments to keep from replying multiple times: The condenser was free of debris. No debris was built up between the condenser and radiator. None in front of the condenser. Both cooling fans ran and were running at full speed when A/C compressor was engaged.
Gotta love the orifice tubes.. years ago , early 90’s vehicles if you could get the line off and get it out and replaced,you’d have cold A/C for the summer.. even with all the chunks..lol
Just replaced our compressor. Had replaced three condensers previously, Subaru paid for the new compressor since the earlier condensers had probably trashed it. They paid for two of the three condensers.
@@brannnnnnn2017 Forester, very early production. First condenser was just a little out of warranty. Someone told me to call Subaru of America and complain. I called, spoke with a very nice person. They paid for the entire bill AND sent me a $300 Yeti cooler! Very stoked! About a year and half later, second condenser. Covered again! No cooler😔 Then I had to take it back as they didn’t tighten a bolt and it lost charge. Last condenser was about six months later. They claimed a rock hit it ( yeah right). Then it started doing the usual thing (drivers side no cool), ended up being the compressor this time. I told them it was from all the crap in it from the condenser failures, and the dealership took care of it. Not sure if they got SoA to pay or not.
I had this problem a few years back with my 2007 Outback and took it to a mechanic who said he sees a lot of that and replaced the solenoid. That did the trick.
I guess I feel less alone because I'm not the only one with a 2009 Outback Ltd. with weak a/c. At least my light silvery-green is better with sunlight.
Been following for a while now as I have found you to be the best source of info for helping me work on my 7th and 8th subaru. My 2008 LLbean falls into the poor AC category. Only worked great when I first got it. Had it at the dealership here in central NC once for this and they said it was fine. Well, it didnt feel fine. Still doesnt feel fine, so, gonna go through and replace the condenser, evap, the expansion valve, cabin air filter (for the 4th time) and was wondering if I should worry too much about the compressor since it always seemed to function fine.
LITERALLY two days ago just had to recharge my 2018 Forester, who's AC only pulled down five degrees lower than ambiant temp after a 1hr drive. UV leak tested, mech said no leak. I'll watch your video with great interest.
I’m a retired Mechanic ASE Master Technician I really enjoy your channel…. you are an exceptional Technician talented, intelligent, experienced…. keep up the outstanding work!
For those of you that dont know there is a descent bag in the condenser and once metalic oil collects in that bag you will have a blocked line (in and out of the condenser).
when you see the black its been low on refrigerant. Thats what destroys a compressor very fast, all the oil leaves compressor and goes to evap and the gasses going back to compressor is hotter and over heats it more. take some temp measurements on the line from evap to compressor when you get it fixed and check lo pressure and convert to saturation .
i also like to get a veh stabilized before looking at pressures only. a lot of heat load and latent heat throws off pressure readings.100 degrees inside car blowing over evap is going to change low side pressures up . but i agree with the black, every thing should be shinny in a good system.
My 03 Bean has had two A/C problems over the last 20 years and both of them were due to hose failures. The compressor and condenser are still going fine. Those hoses are not cheap.
Excellent video, AC problems can be as simple as complicated. At that point there is no other alternative than to remove the compressor and check the oil, if it comes out dark, it is a sign that the compressor is bad and the condenser must be changed because everything must be contaminated, etc. What state are you from, your language is very clear, I understand you practically everything. I am in Peru we speak Spanish but I was born in Italy.
@@MrSubaru1387 Nice state, I was there years ago on a visit to my children in Florida. It's a pleasure to see your videos, especially for lovers of Subarus, I personally dedicate the weekends to do maintenance and with your guide I have improved a lot .
Most excellent, as per usual. Also, just a thought. About 10 months ago, YT started making more slot for Channel Badges. So you can now have 3 and 4-year badges set up for the channel, good sir. Regards
Thought my ac was failing on 09 legacy 3.0r but I believe it might be the drivers temperature actuator. I’m hearing like a clicking noise in the dash and the passenger side blows cold. Is it possible to replace it without removing the dash?
Funny! Just couple days ago I took my 2013 wrx to the shop because my AC wasn’t blow so as cold from the vent. I had a leak in some valves and an evacuation of the system. The AC blows a lot cooler now. I feel like I just need some tint to cool it a bit more now!
Sometimes just cleaning the condenser/radiator helps a little bit I just did my Legacy using some evaporator coil cleaner and I’m surprised how much cooler my AC got, I don’t have a gauge for my high side I ended up using that AC pro but I put very little in the car, I know the right way to do it is have not only the low side but the high side what I’m gonna do later take it to my local shop guy and have him put the machine on it put a vacuum on it pull it and recharge it with the right weight At the end of the summer
Unbolted the radiator mount straps and pushed it back. No significant debris built up between the condenser and radiator. Nothing in front of the radiator blocking it.
my 2014 forester AC is absolute garbage. I imagine it's something complicated like this situation, the dealership both times has told me it's working perfectly but we can experience AC at full blast on an 80+ degree day and we are still sweating in the front seat. There is no way this was the intended design. It used to work when we bought it, but it's been getting slowly worse each year.
Im in a 15 Crosstrek and my compressor seems to switch on then off too frequently making me think im part of that model group with bad ac compressor. I also live in tucson so im uncertain if my ac isnt working properly or if its the 103° temp.
If you are low the ac compressor will short cycle. It’s not good for it and can lead to very expensive repairs if the compressor comes apart because the trash gets spread throughout the system.
Got my AC fully serviced. And it still wouldn't work. Took apart the dash, sprayed some contact cleaner on the AC button and it works fine now. Paid 900 bucks. .apparently I need to replace the whole electrical unit in the dash eventually. . .forget what it's called. But it's an expensive part. sigh
My 2016 Forester’s AC is acting funny. The AC indicator light blinks but then goes dim, no cold air. Sometimes I hold the button in, AC works but not always. It kicks on sometimes but after a little while, I get warm air. Sometimes when I’m on the highway and this happens, I start getting cool air again after a little while. I’m just at a loss. Some say it’s a connection issue to a fuse to I have no f’n clue.
This video came right on time.. My ‘05 OBXT engine slightly overheats ONLY when the A/C is on. I noticed after turning on the A/C and the fans turn on, they only stay on high, rarely going back to low speed. The A/C is not blowing cold as it used to either. The engine doesn’t seem to overheat when the A/C is off. I also heard a squealing/pulley like noise the other day, possibly the A/C compressor. The slight engine overheating only occurs on heavy local traffic, not during Hwy driving. Could a bad A/C system put strain on the engine to where it overheats?
Would the diagnostic process be similar on a 2014 legacy? My independent shop has replaced the leaking o-rings and recharged but the ac just seems to struggle if it’s been heat-soaked sitting out in sun. Once at highway speeds for a while it cools off. And it cools fine if starting out from in the garage/not sitting in sun.
@2:08 You mentioned that the customer reported occasional squealing sounds from the compressor upon startup. What could cause this? My AC system functions flawlessly (in the heat of Central Texas) but it squeals every time I start the engine from cold. The squeal goes away within 30-60 seconds, but it happens every time.
I hear Subaru air conditioners aren't that great to begin with, especially compared to Chevy, Ford, and Toyota. I'd hate to buy a car and be told the reason the a/c isn't keeping you cool is because it's hot outside.
Great videos and channel to watch and I love my WRX. When the AC system is not over charged high, head pressure most of the time is caused by a condenser problem (dirty outside of the condenser, dirty inside the condenser, blocked condenser or cooling fan is not moving the air across the condenser) that is preventing the transfer of heat from the refrigerant gas to atmosphere . AC systems need a small amount of oil to lubricate the compressor and some of this this will travel with the refrigerant around the system seeing a thin film on the Tx valve after years of use is not a surprise. The black in the oil can sometimes come from the breakdown of natural rubber components that release small amounts of carbon into the refrigerant.
Where to find the spec for the clutch gap for these years? Just ordered a set of feeler gauges to check for my 2005 Legacy where AC starts out cold but then gets warm. Hoping it's just a too-large gap that can be fixed by removing the thin shim so the clutch will be able to consistently engage.
Could you help me with a 1981 Subaru DL 1.6 engine? I am not getting power to the fuel pump. It is electric under the hood on the drivers side. On the wiring diagram I find a ACG 12 v 30 that has something to do with the voltage regulator which in on the wheel well on passenger side of the car. Thanks Paul
My compressor clutch is not engaging anymore, I had noticed that the ac was weakening and thought that it was low charge. Not the case now. Where should I go from here? I’m also getting ready to move to CT and I will be transporting our pets.
I have a question regarding a code in my 2016 wrx P000C. Intake cam 2 position slow response Do you think this is simply a sensor gone bad? Or as others have suggested a cam gear within the timing cover that needs replaced? I’ve also been told in 50/50 of these cases where the ecu throws this code it can permanently embed In the ecu and a possible ecu replacement could be needed What do you think?
hello my friend i have a question about servicing my TR580 CVT running 280k what about sucking the entire amount of its oil by the service machine of transmission machine and replace all of it ? someone had told me it is bad option and that might damage the transmission unit and the better is to drain the oil from below it will take about the half amonut of oil 6 to 8 litrewhat is your opinion ?
I've got an 06 Outback 2.5i that has some AC issues. At idle it hardly puts out anything cool out, but once you get up to highway speeds it cools off just fine and ices over if you're on a long trip. I changed out the expansion valve and condenser/filter last year and had a shop pull the refrigerant and fill with new, no change. The old desicant bag was pretty oily/metalic-y looking so I'd guess the compressor is taking a dump or like you said there's a blockage somewhere/multiple places. Does that sound about right for a bad compressor?
I just got a 2017 forester. It blows plenty cold when everything is turned to max. If I lower the fan speed though, it can go from cold to cool, to warm. If i turn it back up to max, it gets vert cold again. Any ideas?
Had a similar problem on an '06 a few years ago. Obv change your cabin air filter first. But my problem was finally solved with a new HVAC fan relay below the steering column. $5 from NAPA. But finding it was a pain. In my car it was in an 8-gang relay panel. Feel for which relay clicks when you turn the fan on, then when you have a candidate, pull it to confirm the fan is disabled. Then take it to NAPA for a new one and swap it out.
I'm only getting some AC from the passenger side of my 2017 wrx, I think it was taken apart by the dealership and they didn't recharge it. but, I don't understand why I get some on the passenger side only
You know there is control that limits the AC based on rpm, right? At least on 2018 and newer. At idle it’s barely on. It’s the engineering/management philosophy to get better mileage ratings, and hide the knocking that according to them is “normal”.
@jjgarage1240 no clue who that even is. People seem to just hate me for no good reason. Literally have hundreds of repair videos here… Where’s the fake? Short? As in height? Lol I’m 6’4.
@@MrSubaru1387 he is an interesting guy man i’m a kia master tech and follow a lot of other manufactures master techs and this dude just complains about anyone he doesn’t agree with. dude seems to be an alright tech but just a odd dude other than that. anyhow i enjoy your videos man. especially when you bring up tools haha
@@MrSubaru1387 i owned several subarus , my lates purchases are a 2014 crosstrek 2.0 and a 2015 legacy 3.6 love them both , but the 3.6 runs as smooth as silk .
So, saw in several comments to keep from replying multiple times:
The condenser was free of debris. No debris was built up between the condenser and radiator. None in front of the condenser.
Both cooling fans ran and were running at full speed when A/C compressor was engaged.
Pollen filter?
@@grahamhayden9770 the cabin air filter was clean and recently replaced.
So diagnosis is parts cannon? I hate AC systems.
Gotta love the orifice tubes.. years ago , early 90’s vehicles if you could get the line off and get it out and replaced,you’d have cold A/C for the summer.. even with all the chunks..lol
Just replaced our compressor. Had replaced three condensers previously, Subaru paid for the new compressor since the earlier condensers had probably trashed it. They paid for two of the three condensers.
what year is your vehicle where they were paying for the new condensers and compressors? under warranty or under severe disappointment?
@@brannnnnnn2017 Forester, very early production. First condenser was just a little out of warranty. Someone told me to call Subaru of America and complain. I called, spoke with a very nice person. They paid for the entire bill AND sent me a $300 Yeti cooler! Very stoked! About a year and half later, second condenser. Covered again! No cooler😔 Then I had to take it back as they didn’t tighten a bolt and it lost charge. Last condenser was about six months later. They claimed a rock hit it ( yeah right). Then it started doing the usual thing (drivers side no cool), ended up being the compressor this time. I told them it was from all the crap in it from the condenser failures, and the dealership took care of it. Not sure if they got SoA to pay or not.
I had this problem a few years back with my 2007 Outback and took it to a mechanic who said he sees a lot of that and replaced the solenoid. That did the trick.
This video brought back my AC&R School training from 50 years ago in the Navy.
I guess I feel less alone because I'm not the only one with a 2009 Outback Ltd. with weak a/c. At least my light silvery-green is better with sunlight.
Been following for a while now as I have found you to be the best source of info for helping me work on my 7th and 8th subaru. My 2008 LLbean falls into the poor AC category. Only worked great when I first got it. Had it at the dealership here in central NC once for this and they said it was fine. Well, it didnt feel fine. Still doesnt feel fine, so, gonna go through and replace the condenser, evap, the expansion valve, cabin air filter (for the 4th time) and was wondering if I should worry too much about the compressor since it always seemed to function fine.
Depends on what you find inside the system once you open it. If there’s a bunch of dark oil and metal particulates, that compressor is toast.
Or, the Denso 4711055 compressor at RA for 278 might be a good investment for a car with 150k?
LITERALLY two days ago just had to recharge my 2018 Forester, who's AC only pulled down five degrees lower than ambiant temp after a 1hr drive. UV leak tested, mech said no leak. I'll watch your video with great interest.
2018 foresters have had ac condenser recall.
@@reternity777 Really? I will look into that, thanks. 🍻
@@OutsideTheTargetDemographic your welcome.
@@reternity777 I just checked, my condenser is the upgraded/NOT recalled part. I'll be doing a RUclips video so other people know. Thanks Reternity. 👍
@@OutsideTheTargetDemographic Good Luck!
I’m a retired Mechanic
ASE Master Technician
I really enjoy your channel….
you are an exceptional Technician
talented, intelligent, experienced….
keep up the outstanding work!
Thank you!
For those of you that dont know there is a descent bag in the condenser and once metalic oil collects in that bag you will have a blocked line (in and out of the condenser).
Yup. Didn’t bother pulling the condenser/dryer on this one after the customer said they weren’t up to fixing it.
@@MrSubaru1387 I completely understand they only wanted the diag🙄. 2hrs of it I'm going to guess?
@@eric63377 roundabout.
I'm a big fan of Subaru this is a great channel 🙂
when you see the black its been low on refrigerant. Thats what destroys a compressor very fast, all the oil leaves compressor and goes to evap and the gasses going back to compressor is hotter and over heats it more. take some temp measurements on the line from evap to compressor when you get it fixed and check lo pressure and convert to saturation .
2011 4 cyl, 160k.
Compressor just kicked the bucket last week.
Brutal.
i also like to get a veh stabilized before looking at pressures only. a lot of heat load and latent heat throws off pressure readings.100 degrees inside car blowing over evap is going to change low side pressures up . but i agree with the black, every thing should be shinny in a good system.
My 03 Bean has had two A/C problems over the last 20 years and both of them were due to hose failures. The compressor and condenser are still going fine. Those hoses are not cheap.
Excellent video, AC problems can be as simple as complicated. At that point there is no other alternative than to remove the compressor and check the oil, if it comes out dark, it is a sign that the compressor is bad and the condenser must be changed because everything must be contaminated, etc. What state are you from, your language is very clear, I understand you practically everything. I am in Peru we speak Spanish but I was born in Italy.
South Carolina
@@MrSubaru1387 Nice state, I was there years ago on a visit to my children in Florida. It's a pleasure to see your videos, especially for lovers of Subarus, I personally dedicate the weekends to do maintenance and with your guide I have improved a lot .
WoW, you're a pretty smart fella. I wished we had you here in Chattanooga
Yup! Way better than a fart smeller
Most excellent, as per usual.
Also, just a thought. About 10 months ago, YT started making more slot for Channel Badges.
So you can now have 3 and 4-year badges set up for the channel, good sir.
Regards
Interesting! I’ll look into that!
That expansion valve looks identical to the ones used in John Deere equipment.
Terrific video
It took Subaru dealership two years to find the problem with my AC for my 2014 Outback. Yup. It was the condenser! Shocker. 🙄
Wish the car would quit telling me to check the engine because I have checked it 3 times and it's still there.😅🤣🤣
Those high performance condensers are easy to clog. Decades ago you could flush them out. Now they are disposable.
Thought my ac was failing on 09 legacy 3.0r but I believe it might be the drivers temperature actuator. I’m hearing like a clicking noise in the dash and the passenger side blows cold. Is it possible to replace it without removing the dash?
2008 Legacy ... AC is great unless car has been sitting in direct sunlight. In those cases, it just won't put out cold for that drive. Frustrating.
Funny! Just couple days ago I took my 2013 wrx to the shop because my AC wasn’t blow so as cold from the vent. I had a leak in some valves and an evacuation of the system. The AC blows a lot cooler now. I feel like I just need some tint to cool it a bit more now!
Ceramic tint will give you better heat reflection and colder temps in your car.
Subaru and A/C are two words that don’t work well together.
My 23 Outback Wilderness has to be on max to properly cool the car.
All my Subaru’s A/C systems have frozen me out.
My 19 Legacy freezes me out!
tint your windows if your in a hot climate area...might help
My 2019 STI is freezing on setting 1 instantly
No issues on my ‘19 Crosstrek, it’ll freeze you up real quick 😂
Sometimes just cleaning the condenser/radiator helps a little bit I just did my Legacy using some evaporator coil cleaner and I’m surprised how much cooler my AC got, I don’t have a gauge for my high side I ended up using that AC pro but I put very little in the car, I know the right way to do it is have not only the low side but the high side what I’m gonna do later take it to my local shop guy and have him put the machine on it put a vacuum on it pull it and recharge it with the right weight At the end of the summer
Unbolted the radiator mount straps and pushed it back. No significant debris built up between the condenser and radiator. Nothing in front of the radiator blocking it.
my 2014 forester AC is absolute garbage. I imagine it's something complicated like this situation, the dealership both times has told me it's working perfectly but we can experience AC at full blast on an 80+ degree day and we are still sweating in the front seat. There is no way this was the intended design. It used to work when we bought it, but it's been getting slowly worse each year.
Im in a 15 Crosstrek and my compressor seems to switch on then off too frequently making me think im part of that model group with bad ac compressor.
I also live in tucson so im uncertain if my ac isnt working properly or if its the 103° temp.
If you are low the ac compressor will short cycle. It’s not good for it and can lead to very expensive repairs if the compressor comes apart because the trash gets spread throughout the system.
Good thing R134 is not as expensive as the stuff thats used in new cars.
It’s 4x the price it was a couple years ago.
@@MrSubaru1387 Sad but true.
Got my AC fully serviced. And it still wouldn't work. Took apart the dash, sprayed some contact cleaner on the AC button and it works fine now. Paid 900 bucks. .apparently I need to replace the whole electrical unit in the dash eventually. . .forget what it's called. But it's an expensive part. sigh
great vid! thanks.
My 2016 Forester’s AC is acting funny. The AC indicator light blinks but then goes dim, no cold air. Sometimes I hold the button in, AC works but not always. It kicks on sometimes but after a little while, I get warm air. Sometimes when I’m on the highway and this happens, I start getting cool air again after a little while. I’m just at a loss. Some say it’s a connection issue to a fuse to I have no f’n clue.
This video came right on time.. My ‘05 OBXT engine slightly overheats ONLY when the A/C is on. I noticed after turning on the A/C and the fans turn on, they only stay on high, rarely going back to low speed. The A/C is not blowing cold as it used to either. The engine doesn’t seem to overheat when the A/C is off. I also heard a squealing/pulley like noise the other day, possibly the A/C compressor. The slight engine overheating only occurs on heavy local traffic, not during Hwy driving. Could a bad A/C system put strain on the engine to where it overheats?
Would the diagnostic process be similar on a 2014 legacy? My independent shop has replaced the leaking o-rings and recharged but the ac just seems to struggle if it’s been heat-soaked sitting out in sun. Once at highway speeds for a while it cools off. And it cools fine if starting out from in the garage/not sitting in sun.
@2:08 You mentioned that the customer reported occasional squealing sounds from the compressor upon startup. What could cause this? My AC system functions flawlessly (in the heat of Central Texas) but it squeals every time I start the engine from cold. The squeal goes away within 30-60 seconds, but it happens every time.
I like how the low gauge says RETARD at 4:07
I hear Subaru air conditioners aren't that great to begin with, especially compared to Chevy, Ford, and Toyota. I'd hate to buy a car and be told the reason the a/c isn't keeping you cool is because it's hot outside.
Great videos and channel to watch and I love my WRX. When the AC system is not over charged high, head pressure most of the time is caused by a condenser problem (dirty outside of the condenser, dirty inside the condenser, blocked condenser or cooling fan is not moving the air across the condenser) that is preventing the transfer of heat from the refrigerant gas to atmosphere . AC systems need a small amount of oil to lubricate the compressor and some of this this will travel with the refrigerant around the system seeing a thin film on the Tx valve after years of use is not a surprise. The black in the oil can sometimes come from the breakdown of natural rubber components that release small amounts of carbon into the refrigerant.
Thanks
Can you rebuild a compressor? If so, is there a kit?
Where to find the spec for the clutch gap for these years? Just ordered a set of feeler gauges to check for my 2005 Legacy where AC starts out cold but then gets warm. Hoping it's just a too-large gap that can be fixed by removing the thin shim so the clutch will be able to consistently engage.
Jdmfsm.info
This car is incredibly clean under the hood given how old it is. The owner must be pretty meticulous about keeping it clean.
Is the high side service port on the discharge line of the compressor? Or is it on the liquid line after the condenser ?
Could you help me with a 1981 Subaru DL 1.6 engine? I am not getting power to the fuel pump. It is electric under the hood on the drivers side. On the wiring diagram I find a ACG 12 v 30 that has something to do with the voltage regulator which in on the wheel well on passenger side of the car. Thanks Paul
My compressor clutch is not engaging anymore, I had noticed that the ac was weakening and thought that it was low charge. Not the case now. Where should I go from here? I’m also getting ready to move to CT and I will be transporting our pets.
I have a question regarding a code in my 2016 wrx
P000C. Intake cam 2 position slow response
Do you think this is simply a sensor gone bad? Or as others have suggested a cam gear within the timing cover that needs replaced?
I’ve also been told in 50/50 of these cases where the ecu throws this code it can permanently embed In the ecu and a possible ecu replacement could be needed
What do you think?
hello my friend i have a question about servicing my TR580 CVT running 280k what about sucking the entire amount of its oil by the service machine of transmission machine and replace all of it ? someone had told me it is bad option and that might damage the transmission unit and the better is to drain the oil from below it will take about the half amonut of oil 6 to 8 litrewhat is your opinion ?
Mine won't turn on and I know its a problem with the switch because even the radiator fans don't come on (they work in traffic/heat though)
I've got an 06 Outback 2.5i that has some AC issues. At idle it hardly puts out anything cool out, but once you get up to highway speeds it cools off just fine and ices over if you're on a long trip. I changed out the expansion valve and condenser/filter last year and had a shop pull the refrigerant and fill with new, no change. The old desicant bag was pretty oily/metalic-y looking so I'd guess the compressor is taking a dump or like you said there's a blockage somewhere/multiple places. Does that sound about right for a bad compressor?
Sounds like a weak compressor.
I just got a 2017 forester. It blows plenty cold when everything is turned to max. If I lower the fan speed though, it can go from cold to cool, to warm. If i turn it back up to max, it gets vert cold again. Any ideas?
QUESTION: What do you flush the lines with to clean?
AC flush. It’s a product.
Once the lines are flushed rember you are flushing ALL the oil out of the system.
Ford boss me is jealous AF of you
Is it ok to mix different brands of PAG oil ? Is it better to use Subaru oem? Does it make a difference?
Some are universal. Most have a specific viscosity.
I noticed my 2021 legacy's rpms raise and fall 100-200 rpms when ac is running. I don't think it ever did that before.
Normal operation for idle speed to increase when the compressor clutch engages.
My 01 h6 outback blows cold air, but no matter what setting 1,2,3,4 it blows soft. I don’t know what it could be, any advice is appreciated
Had a similar problem on an '06 a few years ago. Obv change your cabin air filter first. But my problem was finally solved with a new HVAC fan relay below the steering column. $5 from NAPA.
But finding it was a pain. In my car it was in an 8-gang relay panel. Feel for which relay clicks when you turn the fan on, then when you have a candidate, pull it to confirm the fan is disabled. Then take it to NAPA for a new one and swap it out.
Pollen filter?
Ezy checks first!
I'm only getting some AC from the passenger side of my 2017 wrx, I think it was taken apart by the dealership and they didn't recharge it. but, I don't understand why I get some on the passenger side only
It means that it requires a recharge. The refrigerant is already low.
When replacing the expansion valve, you have yo recover all of the refegierant out right? Or do those lines shut when pulling them out?
Before opening any part of the system, the refrigerant must be evacuated and recovered from the system.
The engine looks better without the plastic cover on it.
You know there is control that limits the AC based on rpm, right? At least on 2018 and newer. At idle it’s barely on.
It’s the engineering/management philosophy to get better mileage ratings, and hide the knocking that according to them is “normal”.
No such thing on this old 2009.
Is it me or do Japanese/Korean cars just don’t have good AC systems?
Just you. All my Subaru’s A/C systems have been able to freeze me out in the South Carolina summer heat.
I probably would have made sure both the cooling fans were working given the high side pressure.
Rad fans both worked as expected.
why does ford boss have such a problem with you lol
What’s that?
@@MrSubaru1387 ford boss me guy went on a randy about you today lmao. complaining about you being fake and short lol
@jjgarage1240 no clue who that even is. People seem to just hate me for no good reason. Literally have hundreds of repair videos here… Where’s the fake? Short? As in height? Lol I’m 6’4.
@@MrSubaru1387I think he’s full of it, has no videos and no subscribers.. lookin to stir up poop ..
@@MrSubaru1387 he is an interesting guy man i’m a kia master tech and follow a lot of other manufactures master techs and this dude just complains about anyone he doesn’t agree with. dude seems to be an alright tech but just a odd dude other than that. anyhow i enjoy your videos man. especially when you bring up tools haha
After 2 days of diagnosis the conclusion is to replace everything. Lol. Such is the way of car mechanicals.
The dreaded 6cyl...rumor
They’re phenomenal engines.
reliable engines actually
@@MrSubaru1387 i owned several subarus , my lates purchases are a 2014 crosstrek 2.0 and a 2015 legacy 3.6 love them both , but the 3.6 runs as smooth as silk .
@@MrSubaru1387 May be the older ones also had HG issues?
I admit to repeating scuttlebutt- not based on experience.
@@SyphADL87 He likes the 4 bangers but I haven't heard a kind word from him about the 6's.