CMC How to: Master Cylinder - S2000
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- This episode on Tech Wednesday, Change your Master Cylinder.
This is a problem we see on S2000s, this is mainly due to not changing the fluid regularly. It's not a difficult job and makes a huge difference.
I hope this video helps if you're planning on tackling the job yourself, or gives you an idea what's involved if you have someone else do it.
Ok I think I have watched enough of your tutorials now to be a qualified S2000 mechanic . Can you forward me my diploma please.
You know whats so cool about these videos? The transition music between scenes. Very 90's-early 2000's. Love how your shops personality shines through your videos! Great video!
Thanks, We're basically selling ourselves in the videos. I have had the same mind set since I opened, RUclips allows us to share it. My video skills and time doesn't allow for high end productions. I hold the camera while working, then edit it when I get time.
The spray part from a spray bottle is my go to. I just spray all used brake fluid into an empty brake fluid bottle, I use that bottle to run my 1/4in ID fuel hose from the caliper and clutch bleeder. Replacing the clutch fluid will keep the master from leaking, no need to bleed, just empty the resevoir, fill with fresh fluid, pump the clutch 100x with the car off, then replace fluid again. Do this 2x a year and you'll never need to replace the master ever again. Also a lot of S2k masters leak, the black sludge is actually the seal.
I'm sure you know this too, but unbolting the slave and gravity bleeding with the bleeder pointing up in the air is the best way to bleed the clutch line. Think of a soda bottle, the air always settles at the top, if you turn the bottle over and open the cap the air stays in the top. This is why I hold the bleeder straight up. It's like opening the soda bottle and squeezing from the bottom, the air has no where to go but out.
This is true, I 've found more Florida cars have this problem than others. It's so humid here and I wonder if it has anything to do with the fluid being contaminated sooner. Thanks for adding the comments, I hope this helps people.
Brilliant, easy to follow tutorial. More please 👍😁
A quick follow-up to say I re-watched this and changed mine today. It is slightly easier on a RHD car due to the additional space where the hydraulic line goes into the cylinder. Took me a while to bleed the system but got there in the end. Thanks again for posting this video. Your advice is invaluable 👍
Best explanation I’ve seen on the web. Fantastic tutorial! Thank you sir!
The orientation of the clip and pin is very important, on the way you showed(pin entering the right and clipped on the left), it allows you to adjust the clutch pedal so that the clutch action is at the top of the pedal stroke. If the orientation has the pin coming from the left and clipped to the right, you're denying yourself one full turn of the clutch adjustment rod, so the clutch action will be a little lower on the pedal stroke even if you extend the rod as far as it will go.
Some people prefer the clutch action a little lower, some like to have the clutch action at the very top of the pedal. Personally I don't like to have it a the very very top because I feel the clutch isn't fully engaging
Rolando Tillit The pin should go Left to right. The clip goes on the left. Unless you brake loose the jam nut loose, you can spin it until your blue in the face and it will not adjust the clutch at all. Adjusting the travel/ free play is done by braking free the jam nut and adjusting the threaded rod into the bracket. 😎
@@LHTPerformance You mean the hook clip is on the brake pedal side, or facing the ECU? The bracket has those tabs to keep the pin from turning, so if the bracket is facing the brake pedal then the pin is entering the right and the clip is on the ECU side.
That is the orientation from the factory, and how you have it on your video, that is the correct orientation. Like you mentioned, you adjust the free play by loosening the jam nut on the master, and turning the rod. If the clip is facing the wrong way you deny yourself the ability to adjust out all the free play. If it's facing the right way it gives you a few more threads to dial out the slop in the master.
For anyone wondering what's the best size hose to use for this procedure, I've found 1/4" I.D. fuel hose works best, I've used the same fuel hose for 2 years worth of cars. It snugs over the bleeder perfectly making an air-tight seal, and you can see all the air bubbles coming out of the hose like you mentioned.
Thanks for the comment, I hope this helps people that feel comfortable enough to do it them self.
I wish I knew to check this before I bought my 2001 S2000. Only had 28700 miles on it but at 34200 I had to replace the space and master cylinder.
Cheers
Very nice DIY! Thanks for taking the time to film and post, it's very much appreciated. I have one request, any chance you can do a DIY for the EPS torque sensor? Provided you have a customer that needs theirs replaced.
If we get one, yes. Good idea.
LHT is the best when working on S2000's bar none!
More like this please!
Best s2k channel 😍
can you guys show in one of your videos when replacing the master cylinder, the correct way to adjust the threaded rod for viewers so they know where to set it with the correct amt of freeplay without having premature clutch wear which ive seen in the past. seems to be a confusing topic for a lot of people.
Loving the channel. Suggestions for Tech Wednesday vlog. How to remove and repair the s2k starter motor. Its a common fault in the uk for the starter to grind / cough after starting up. They say its sticking and Ive heard of people strip it down and rebuild it... How to fix that would be awesome...
Tim Simpson Yep, we get those too. Maybe when one comes in for one we’ll do a how to.
Nice tutorial! I did this on Miata that past weekend!
Great tutorial. Very detailed!
you know what i noticed, you guys didnt note for people how to properly adjust the rod that connects to the pedal for people.
They usually come set to the proper location.
Is there a proper clutch engagement point with the clutch rod adjustment?
Very nice tutorial
This guy is better then schott Kilmer. Explanation is on point. We dont need schotty to pop out a trunk lol
Oh and another mega issue for us in the damp uk, is seized suspension alignment bolts. Mine are all seized up so cant get an alignment done until all replaced. I've bought all replacement bushes (mugen compliance) and honda bolts etc. Just need to cut out the compliance bushings. It a hell of a job. Another one for tech wednesdays?
I would coat everything in Space grease where you live. We don't have the rust issues here in Florida but I remember my UK days and rust.......
So what would cause low petal resistance at high rpm?? Thank u
The 10mm wrench should be flared otherwise you risk stripping the fitting.
I have a line wrench but don't often need it. I think I did 60 some Master cylinders last year. ;)
Hello LHT Team! Love all of your vids! Just checked my MC today and it does have a slight sludge (no drip) and the fluid is not that dark, i can still see through it, do you recommend changing the cylinder already? Or fluid flush and keep a close eye to it? Thanks!
Good Morning!
The principle is like when venting the brakes.
Great job guys!
love these tutorials, even though I dont personaly have an s2k, Im sure most it applies to other manual cars, with a few differences in installlation process. Is it common practice/recommended to flush clutch fluid every 2 years?
I personally would change it more often if you can do it yourself. I tend to be over kill with my own stuff.
It there any noticeable benefit to removing the delay valve in the slave cylinder in the AP2. The AP1 does not have it. Seems easy enough to take out. I dont think yall have a video about removing it. Probably helps with driveline shock if someone was beating on it.
another great and informative video
Thanks for the DIY videos sir
My master cylinder has failed and I have been told to change the slave cylinder at the same time. Should I bother?
I was thinking the same thing. My master is blown I am think it would make sense to do the slave while i am at it.
Great video!
John, is there a brand of fluid you recommend?
I love your videos.
Ted White We use Valvoline Synthetic DOT4
Thanks for the response. Keep up the great work.
New clutch, Pressure plate & ap1 flywheel less than 20k miles ago.. fluids just changed & my clutch feels soft and engages lower to the ground. 1st and Reverse is also hard to get into. Probably the Master/Slave cylinder?
What did it end up being? I’m having the same problem with 1st and every other gear. It’s stif and won’t lock in
What about when the clutch pedal gets stuck trying to to press and usually harder when accelerating harder or in higher RPMs?
Fluid was full but still went ahead and flushed it, also lubed up the clutch fork as well. My next step is replacing the clutch slave as I seen someone found that to be the fix.
It sounds like an issue with the Clutch itself. Possible release bearing
@@LHTPerformance that’s what I was hoping I didn’t hear 😭😭😭 and the clutch kit is just a little over a year old!!! Clutch masters stage (what ever you suggested) with Honda release bearing to boot, but on your behalf, I didn’t change the collar 🥺
You might not remember as its been a long time but what year was this S2000? I have an 07 and the fuse box is much closer to the firewall so its is getting in the way of removing the cylinder.
The 2006+ has the small fuse box that gets in the way. You can remove the 10mm bolt right there and give yourself some more room.
@@LHTPerformance Awesome thanks. I was able to remove the bolt and push the box down enough to get the cylinder out. Thanks for all the videos they are very helpful. My next project is changing out the shifters plastic parts.
@@iane9552 Great, glad you got it. The shifter rebuild is still one of the most rewarding and easy to do DIY mods. You’ll Love it.
Please open LHT Performance shop 2 in SoCal
Better yet, ny. Lmao
Happen to have the part number on hand for an 04'? Also, do you recommend replacing the slave at the same time? Thanks and keep the tutorials coming!
JZ Hickory The parts numbers are all the same. The slave doesn’t often have as many issues, if it’s leaking. Replace it. The Slave is year specific
Well done! 👏
is slave cylinder is involved in Fuild decreasing issue ?
Great video
Wanted to ask..have u dismantled one and tried to service it? I know its easyer to replace it but just to change the failed parts inside seems possible
I haven’t tried. I don’t think the parts to rebuild it are available. I’m pretty sure the piston is what falls apart but possibly the bore gets damaged too. From what I see, they start to turn the fluid black and leak a very small amount first, them quickly go down hill.
Is it required to bench bleed?
Should the pedal feel firm at the very top or should there be some “slack” before the rod starts pushing on the piston inside the cylinder? I have it adjusted to where there’s 0 slack, doesn’t slip while driving. But curious if this is proper
It should have some free play. I believe Honda calls for 10-12mm. If not tie release bearing is under constant load.
@@LHTPerformance Is that adjustment made at the master cylinder rod or clutch switch at the top? Keep finding conflicting info about it
Have you heard of or done a clutch delay valve (CDV) delete on one of these? Do you know if a 2002 model year S2000 even has one? Thanks!
Yes. It’s there to prevent drive train shock. Removing will allow the clutch to bite a little harder but it’s harder on many components. Hence why Honda designed it to that.
Thanks John. After further research not sure the AP1 has one. Looks like a change they made to the AP2 … please correct me if I'm wrong. Don't want to take mine apart and find it's not there! Thanks for your videos … they've been very helpful as well as entertaining :)
I recently changed clutch master changed and bled the fluid and did trans fluid with royal purple as you recommended. Car was running like a top. One month and 5 rides later, the clutch feels notchy and stiff again. Is there any linckage I should lube or do you think the slave is causing it to be notchy? When I say notchy I mean stiff intermitantly. It feels like a linckage issue ...perhaps ..... Any thoughts here would be welcome.
dirtydelta7 The notchy feel is most likely from the release bearing and slide. The grease dries up over time and the bearing doesn’t slide smoothly.
Reaching the nut on the cmc is near impossible, I give up
Remove the plastic panel the covers the ecu. It’s super easy then.
@@LHTPerformance and how do you do that without messing anything up
@@onosapien4091 It’s kinda hard to explain.
If this is blown would the car still start?
No even when u run low on oil it won't let you engage into gear trust me it happened to me
Is that the Hybrid racing CMC ?
We only use OEM.
@@LHTPerformance thank you for the quick reply :)
My clutch gets stuck and won't go into gear is it my clutch or master cylinder
Fernando cadena Without checking I can’t be sure. It sounds like the hydraulic system though.
@@LHTPerformance cuz my clutch pedal started feeling worn and the its didnt gho into gear I had to turn off to get into gear to start and parked it in the garage
Fernando cadena It could be a worn out clutch too.
@@LHTPerformance yeah I've been dumping the clutch on burn outside so I think ima do the master cylinder and the clutch but what about the pressure plate and atuff?
Why is my s2000 clutch so hard after I replace the master and slave ?
Ivan Cruz lomasloco19 Is it bled correctly
LHTPerformance yes i did my Best probable gotta bled it again
It hat about 86k miles on it Stock clutch I believe
What do you recommend me ?
But my clutch pedal falls to tha floor
Mine gets stuck and won't go into gear
What type of fluid do u recommend for the cmc?
MoTorBLocK2330 we use DOT3/4 Synthetic
LHTPerformance ty
Can I do an internship at LHT for like a month? I'll do it for free lol
Felix M. We get asked this a lot. Unfortunately trying to teach someone unless they are already very mechanical, will take away from our day to day work. We stay very busy and myself are very focused on what I’m doing. That why phones don’t get answered after Esther leaves