A million thanks ! Watched so many videos about this and NOONE pointed out the importance of the inner washer and the side it should face . Officially a fan now !
Dear Bob, thank you for this video. A broken tail piece, easy out tool and some plumbers putty and I was back in business. You made it seamless. Thanks again!!!
Bob I agree with you 100%. As a handyman with some plumbing experience, I always advise any of my customers that if they want their bathrooms drain to work well then spend the money for quality parts like the p.o. assembly. This is just another example where “experience “ proves to be priceless. Have a great day. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Richard, I can’t believe how many of the major faucet manufacturers are supplying those horrible plastic pop up assemblies with their faucets. Regards, Bob.
Bought a Glacier Bay toilet Bob it had a hairline crack from it from the factory I was mad as hell returned it and bought a nice Kohler and it's been wonderful ever since the quality is substantially better you're right you get what you pay for
Man, you are the best ! I wanted to do a job like that. I watched countless videos and I didn't feel ready. But then I found this video and it felt like that I was on rocket fuel. It's like I knew how to do it before. I only watched once and I was ready. Thank you.
Great vid Bob! For the plastic version I rub a small amount of dish soap between the nut and the bottom of the rubber washer to reduce the friction. This keeps the rubber washer from distorting as the assembly is tightened. Next opportunity I’ll try the cardboard friction washer. Given the choice I also prefer the metal version.
It’s nice to watch a craftsman with patience to teach others. I’ve installed a few plastic pop ups with integrated tailpieces in my time and I’ve never used any putty. The bottom is always water tight if the nut is tightened hard enough and pushes the rubber beveled washer into the bottom of the drain hole opening. And any water that may leak under what you call the ‘flange’ has nowhere to go but down through the overflow openings and into the tailpiece and drain anyway. Just my limited observation, for what it’s worth. Probably better, as you say, to throw it out and use a real strainer & tailpiece assembly made from heavy gauge chromed brass
Hey, I agree with pretty much everything! I only use high quality all metal drains. Usually Moen. I make sure faucets I buy have the metal drain. One trick I learned to stop leaks under the sink hole, is to apply Rector Seal #5 on the 5 or so threads that seal the nut and opening. It's soft rubbery like when dry and watertight. Lasts longer than plumber putty. And again, I only use metal pipe so I don't know if this would work on plastic. I also use the #5 sealant on top of new angle valve crush sleeves so I don't have to worry about indents to the pipe causing a small leak from the old sleeve that is removed.
My cheap big box store popup rusts! Yup, popup and sink ring are not rust resistant. After 6 months I am having to replace because of discoloration. Take a magnet with you to check your new popup. Lots of junk out there!!!
Great video, I hate plastic pop-up drains, the fact that the flange, which is poorly designed can easily crack and or separate during installation. . . had this happen a few times trying to cut corners. So now I only use Keeney heavy duty cast brass/chrome or better pop-up drains. . .
Like you I have had to install those very cheap pop-ups that had no friction washers.What I would do is to take a drop of dish washing liquid,shampoo or just regular soap,smear the lower washer of the pop-up with it so that it would screw on without any hiccups.Thank you for another good video Mr.Sessa,your videos take me back to my days as an apprentice.God bless you and yours Mr.Sessa.
That is the right approach to take with plastic parts. They can crack easily if tightened excessively. Even with metal it is only necessary to make the joints tight enough so that they do not leak. More than that can strip out threads or make the parts extremely difficult to take apart later.
I just installed my basin and the steel rod didn't stay in place, so I'm back to square one. :\ This is a great video and you are a great teacher. Gracias from Mexico
Thanks for the vid! Do you have any vids on the proper use of a drain auger, the kind you would use to clear a shower drain for example. I just paid a professional plumber a fortune to clear a shower drain, it's took all of about 20 minutes and I was wondering if there are any special techniques involved especially when you get to the part of the drain when you reach the trap. The guy ran the cable out about 25 feet and I was wondering how he got past the trap without getting the cable stuck somewhere. LOL thanks for your help, love your videos!
Before I saw this video, I just replaced a plastic one with another plastic one. Odd thing is it's leaking between the nut and the tail pipe threads. I took it all off and wrapped that area with blue Teflon tape and reinstalled. Tested it again, cold and hot water and then thru the sink overflow. All looked good but came back 15 minutes later to collect my tools and see there's a leak at the same place. Ideas??
Put a brass one in !! Make sure you use plumbers putty under the chrome flange before you set it in the sink and on the rubber washer underneath before you push it up against the sink. Followed by a metal friction washer and finally the nut to tighten all up.
Hi Bob with the plastic drains if the flange inside the bowl being plastic should I use plumbers putty or silicone to seal it to the basin. It is a Kohler pop-up drain with a washer (seal) ? Thx guenther
my understanding is that the rod should go through the hole at the bottom of the stopper. if the rod is through the hole and the stopper cannot move, does this mean that the position of the whole assembly is too low? i.e., can i get more stopper movement by tightening the whole assembly further on?
My process when setting these up is to have the pop up rod in the fully up position. I loosen the nut that holds the rod into the pop up tee, thread it through the hole of the stopper, then pull the rod down.This will bring the stopper to the full up position. tighten the nut back up (gently) then adjust the lift rod assembly accordingly. If you tighten the nut onto tee to much it'll be very difficult to move. Check this video out, it make help you: ruclips.net/video/oMrwiF10aVw/видео.html
My bathroom sink"s drain is in the middle of the sink, therefore, the rod that adjusts the height of the pop up isn't long enough. When it was installed they bent the piece with the adjustment holes to make it reach. It has never worked properly. Also, the piece going down into the drain doesn"t have hole at the bottom for the rod, it has a magnet. What do you think?
That's a common problem with some of the newer sinks on the market. I have had to to the same move, offsetting the lift rod (piece with the holes) in order to make it reach the pop-up rod. You could try searching on sites like build.com for pop-up assemblies with a longer rod. I have to guess they're made. because more and more sinks are coming onto the market that create this problem. Good Luck and thanks for checking bout the video. Bob.
Dissapointed in the Delta Amazon link… the one that comes up is not metal. Seller says “metallic” when in the comments. Can you post a link to the actual Delta website to their part/part number?
I have a toilet question. I watched your video about measuring off the wall. So I got that part understood. But I have a section of baseboard and a window behind my toilet. (I am moving the toilet over to be centered on the window) My question: Do I still measure off the wall or off the baseboard enclosure? Thanks!!
You always measure off the finished wall, also a minimum distance from the center of the bowl to both the left and right should be 15" . Total minimum distance 30" with the bowl dead center. Not always possible, but that is code here in the city.
Thanks for this!! I'm redoing mine now! The "super" doesn't know how to properly do things! Instead of sending a legit plumber, the "landlord" takes short cuts! 😖
I am not a plumber but I buy plumber grade parts form supplyhouse.com. The price difference is amazing, a 3/4 in. ball valve from Home Despot is 16 bucks at Supply House its 6 bucks for a Bluefin 10 bucks if a buy a Watts.
bob don't spend so much time downgrading the plastic products thousands of people use them and are satisfied, some can't afford the better one, show us how to, there's thousands of people for plastic and thousands people for the better one
As someone who does this for a living, callbacks are the kiss of death for a service company. Pound for pound I get called back every time I install one of these inferior imported plastics products. For a homeowner, I say go for it! But I’ll stick with a good old fashioned solid brass pop-up every time. Regards, Bob
Plumbers like metal cause they know they r very hard 2 take apart! AND $$!!!!! Do it ur selfers love plastic cause even women can do the work. WITHOUT special tools , cutting, heating etc. That's why they make plastic easy to repair + save money! (Plastic is the future!!)
You're a Godsend, Bob. I'm learning something new everyday, sir.
Thank you Sir, appreciate you checking out the video. Stay tuned for more practical plumbing tips! Regards, Bob,
Great !! Video so wonderful to see someone how really know what the Ficking talking about worked for a plumber for several year
A million thanks ! Watched so many videos about this and NOONE pointed out the importance of the inner washer and the side it should face . Officially a fan now !
Much appreciated! Thank You.
Dear Bob, thank you for this video. A broken tail piece, easy out tool and some plumbers putty and I was back in business. You made it seamless. Thanks again!!!
Excellent! Glad to help!
Thank you for the video. I fixed my mother inlaws sink and she is very happy. Great information and instruction.
You're welcome, thanks for checking out the video! Bob.
Bob I agree with you 100%. As a handyman with some plumbing experience, I always advise any of my customers that if they want their bathrooms drain to work well then spend the money for quality parts like the p.o. assembly. This is just another example where “experience “ proves to be priceless. Have a great day. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Richard, I can’t believe how many of the major faucet manufacturers are supplying those horrible plastic pop up assemblies with their faucets. Regards, Bob.
As a NC licensed plumber, I couldn’t agree with you more. Great video! You sir are a real professional!
Thank you so much, I appreciate that. Regards, Bob.
Bought a Glacier Bay toilet Bob it had a hairline crack from it from the factory I was mad as hell returned it and bought a nice Kohler and it's been wonderful ever since the quality is substantially better you're right you get what you pay for
Man, you are the best !
I wanted to do a job like that. I watched countless videos and I didn't feel ready.
But then I found this video and it felt like that I was on rocket fuel. It's like I knew how to do it before.
I only watched once and I was ready.
Thank you.
Great vid Bob! For the plastic version I rub a small amount of dish soap between the nut and the bottom of the rubber washer to reduce the friction. This keeps the rubber washer from distorting as the assembly is tightened. Next opportunity I’ll try the cardboard friction washer. Given the choice I also prefer the metal version.
It’s nice to watch a craftsman with patience to teach others. I’ve installed a few plastic pop ups with integrated tailpieces in my time and I’ve never used any putty. The bottom is always water tight if the nut is tightened hard enough and pushes the rubber beveled washer into the bottom of the drain hole opening. And any water that may leak under what you call the ‘flange’ has nowhere to go but down through the overflow openings and into the tailpiece and drain anyway. Just my limited observation, for what it’s worth. Probably better, as you say, to throw it out and use a real strainer & tailpiece assembly made from heavy gauge chromed brass
I am so happy to have found you ,you get what you pay for THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!!!!!! Explained very well step step
Thank you! for checking out the video. regards, Bob.
I like the new Moen drains that have a push-in (from the top) pop-up. No more rusted out pop-up rods.
Hey, I agree with pretty much everything! I only use high quality all metal drains. Usually Moen. I make sure faucets I buy have the metal drain. One trick I learned to stop leaks under the sink hole, is to apply Rector Seal #5 on the 5 or so threads that seal the nut and opening. It's soft rubbery like when dry and watertight. Lasts longer than plumber putty. And again, I only use metal pipe so I don't know if this would work on plastic. I also use the #5 sealant on top of new angle valve crush sleeves so I don't have to worry about indents to the pipe causing a small leak from the old sleeve that is removed.
Great tip! I will Cherokee it out, regards. Bob.
Bob, how true when you say invest in the quality parts. Sometime it doesn't take long for cracks to pop up in the plastic from heat of hot water.
Don’t know why they even sell that stuff? It’s a shame, hey thanks for commenting! Regards, Bob.
Great video in detail Bob. much appreciated.
You're welcome and thank you for checking out the video! Bob.
Nice tip of the plastic and friction washer
It just make life easy! Thanks for checking out the video. Bob.
My cheap big box store popup rusts! Yup, popup and sink ring are not rust resistant. After 6 months I am having to replace because of discoloration. Take a magnet with you to check your new popup. Lots of junk out there!!!
I liked it a lot and very good material.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video, I hate plastic pop-up drains, the fact that the flange, which is poorly designed can easily crack and or separate during installation. . . had this happen a few times trying to cut corners. So now I only use Keeney heavy duty cast brass/chrome or better pop-up drains. . .
Very Nice Pop-Up assembly...Regards, Bob.
Like you I have had to install those very cheap pop-ups that had no friction washers.What I would do is to take a drop of dish washing liquid,shampoo or just regular soap,smear the lower washer of the pop-up with it so that it would screw on without any hiccups.Thank you for another good video Mr.Sessa,your videos take me back to my days as an apprentice.God bless you and yours Mr.Sessa.
When you deal with plastic, what I learned is just hand tighten it first and run a water test, if it leaks, tighten it more until the leak stop.
That is the right approach to take with plastic parts. They can crack easily if tightened excessively. Even with metal it is only necessary to make the joints tight enough so that they do not leak. More than that can strip out threads or make the parts extremely difficult to take apart later.
I just installed my basin and the steel rod didn't stay in place, so I'm back to square one. :\ This is a great video and you are a great teacher. Gracias from Mexico
If stem is little long can it be cut?
Yes, sometimes they hit the back of the cabinet and I just cut off the length I need.
Thanks for the vid! Do you have any vids on the proper use of a drain auger, the kind you would use to clear a shower drain for example. I just paid a professional plumber a fortune to clear a shower drain, it's took all of about 20 minutes and I was wondering if there are any special techniques involved especially when you get to the part of the drain when you reach the trap. The guy ran the cable out about 25 feet and I was wondering how he got past the trap without getting the cable stuck somewhere. LOL thanks for your help, love your videos!
Thanks great video
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video Bob!
Thank You Tom! Hope you're enjoying your retirement!!
Thanks for the video, Bob. I'm looking for a bathroom vanity faucet. Could you suggest which brands are best for reliability and ease of service?
Before I saw this video, I just replaced a plastic one with another plastic one. Odd thing is it's leaking between the nut and the tail pipe threads. I took it all off and wrapped that area with blue Teflon tape and reinstalled. Tested it again, cold and hot water and then thru the sink overflow. All looked good but came back 15 minutes later to collect my tools and see there's a leak at the same place. Ideas??
Put a brass one in !! Make sure you use plumbers putty under the chrome flange before you set it in the sink and on the rubber washer underneath before you push it up against the sink. Followed by a metal friction washer and finally the nut to tighten all up.
You are the best, thank you
Why does the drain pipe 3:56 have holes in the side? Why oh why?
12:30 why don't you put Teflon on the threads?
Would you please let us know what is a good brand or where to buy a good pop up
amzn.to/3ti1xUt, Great Pop-Up assembly. Regards, Bob.
THANK YOU!
Hi Bob with the plastic drains if the flange inside the bowl being plastic should I use plumbers putty or silicone to seal it to the basin. It is a Kohler pop-up drain with a washer (seal) ? Thx guenther
my understanding is that the rod should go through the hole at the bottom of the stopper.
if the rod is through the hole and the stopper cannot move, does this mean that the position of the whole assembly is too low? i.e., can i get more stopper movement by tightening the whole assembly further on?
My process when setting these up is to have the pop up rod in the fully up position. I loosen the nut that holds the rod into the pop up tee, thread it through the hole of the stopper, then pull the rod down.This will bring the stopper to the full up position. tighten the nut back up (gently) then adjust the lift rod assembly accordingly. If you tighten the nut onto tee to much it'll be very difficult to move. Check this video out, it make help you:
ruclips.net/video/oMrwiF10aVw/видео.html
I feel like a frkn expert now.
I have water pooling at the drain. How do you fix this?
I have got nerves up gonna give this a try. To do my self the one in at present is plastic .300.00 job lasted 3 months
Hi Bob if I was purchasing a brass pop-up drain with out the pull up linkage which Brand would you recommend? Thx guenther
My bathroom sink"s drain is in the middle of the sink, therefore, the rod that adjusts the height of the pop up isn't long enough. When it was installed they bent the piece with the adjustment holes to make it reach. It has never worked properly. Also, the piece going down into the drain doesn"t have hole at the bottom for the rod, it has a magnet. What do you think?
That's a common problem with some of the newer sinks on the market. I have had to to the same move, offsetting the lift rod (piece with the holes) in order to make it reach the pop-up rod. You could try searching on sites like build.com for pop-up assemblies with a longer rod. I have to guess they're made. because more and more sinks are coming onto the market that create this problem. Good Luck and thanks for checking bout the video. Bob.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks
Thank you
Bob,on the plastic pop-ups won’t the oil in the plumbers putty eventually breakdown the plastic.Silicone might be a better alternative.
LOL! The pop-up with fall apart before that happens. Thanks for asking and taking the time to check out the video. Bob
Thank you very much for the video.
You're welcome! Bob.
Dissapointed in the Delta Amazon link… the one that comes up is not metal. Seller says “metallic” when in the comments. Can you post a link to the actual Delta website to their part/part number?
www.deltafaucet.com/parts/product/RP5651NN.html
I have a toilet question. I watched your video about measuring off the wall. So I got that part understood. But I have a section of baseboard and a window behind my toilet. (I am moving the toilet over to be centered on the window) My question: Do I still measure off the wall or off the baseboard enclosure? Thanks!!
You always measure off the finished wall, also a minimum distance from the center of the bowl to both the left and right should be 15" . Total minimum distance 30" with the bowl dead center. Not always possible, but that is code here in the city.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Okay. So the baseboard heating does not have to be factored in. Great. Thanks for the fast reply.
The directions on the package for the plastic one says do NOT use plumbers putty but use silicone which is what I used.
I'm old school, but if silicone works for you go for it!
Thanks for this!! I'm redoing mine now! The "super" doesn't know how to properly do things! Instead of sending a legit plumber, the "landlord" takes short cuts! 😖
I am not a plumber but I buy plumber grade parts form supplyhouse.com. The price difference is amazing, a 3/4 in. ball valve from Home Despot is 16 bucks at Supply House its 6 bucks for a Bluefin 10 bucks if a buy a Watts.
I am a supplyhouse.com customer myself! Great products at a great price point and speedy delivery. Regards, Bob.
Thank You For The Tip !
Where's the section where he shows how to remove the old parts?
Fast forward to 23:48
bob don't spend so much time downgrading the plastic products thousands of people use them and are satisfied, some can't afford the better one, show us how to, there's thousands of people for plastic and thousands people for the better one
As someone who does this for a living, callbacks are the kiss of death for a service company. Pound for pound I get called back every time I install one of these inferior imported plastics products. For a homeowner, I say go for it! But I’ll stick with a good old fashioned solid brass pop-up every time.
Regards,
Bob
Plumbers like metal cause they know they r very hard 2 take apart! AND $$!!!!! Do it ur selfers love plastic cause even women can do the work. WITHOUT special tools , cutting, heating etc. That's why they make plastic easy to repair + save money! (Plastic is the future!!)
I like the metal ones better
100% agree!
Nice job Bob...Putty (like Puddy)...not puty :)