I cut a narrow slot in the side of the hole the size of the rod at the mid point. Then you can remove and reinstall the stopper by turning it instead of having to get under the sink.
Yeah, that’s exactly how I did it fifty years ago. It was slow to drain and when I finally had to take it apart to clean out, I decided there had to be a better way. It was a mess, laying under the sink to disassemble, and nine times out of ten the stinking stagnant water seems to always find away to drown you. Good practice on how to survive water boarding (laugh out loud). When I reassembled, I installed the stopper last. Stand in front of the sink with the stopper in on hand and pull the drain lever behind the faucet all the way up. Now, orient the stopper so the hole for rod is closest to you and insert it in the drain (the opposite of your way). It will slip over the rod, and when you push the drain lever down the stopper is higher in the drain and the water will drain quicker. To take it out, push the drain lever all the way down and pull the stopper out.
Let me run a situation by you that I can’t find an answer for. Several weeks ago two non-contact voltage testers were both unable to detect live voltage in a 3 foot deep by 1 foot wide by 4 long trench with an energized NM cable running across the trench from side to side with about a foot of exposed cable visible. I suspect it had something to do with the fact that the cable was very close to earth. I had a greenlee NCV and another electrician had a Fluke. Both failed. It could have turned into a very bad day if I had not been very careful to hold onto the insulation of my cable cutters. There’s a lot more to this story. Without going into all the details, why didn’t those testers detect voltage? They were both tested prior and after on an outlet.
@@SparkyChannel it was white, so I don’t believe it was UF unless UF was white eons ago before my time. It did look heavily insulated, now that you mention it. Thanks for the reply.
I found out the hard way that those ball rods differ between manufacturers. Now when I break one I just buy the tail piece too and change the whole thing if I can't get the original part easily.
DANCO (88994) Sink Pop-Up Stopper, Plastic, Chrome Finish, 1-Pack: Amazon: amzn.to/3QMXQSe
Playlist: Faucet videos by Sparky Channel: ruclips.net/p/PLSD43kAzjUIQgOERh2EGGkYjPldGdjGOg
Playlist: Garbage Disposal Videos by Sparky Channel: ruclips.net/p/PLSD43kAzjUISfYTtqPAFvUP11MqW0VGyf
Playlist: Bath Fan Videos by Sparky Channel: ruclips.net/p/PLSD43kAzjUITkkk-QVexMdSSczisP-a1s
Thank you so much for this video! You are a great teacher. You explain and demonstrate to perfection!
You're welcome, and thank you!
I cut a narrow slot in the side of the hole the size of the rod at the mid point. Then you can remove and reinstall the stopper by turning it instead of having to get under the sink.
Nice tip, thanks!
@@SparkyChannel hi bill
Yeah, that’s exactly how I did it fifty years ago. It was slow to drain and when I finally had to take it apart to clean out, I decided there had to be a better way. It was a mess, laying under the sink to disassemble, and nine times out of ten the stinking stagnant water seems to always find away to drown you. Good practice on how to survive water boarding (laugh out loud). When I reassembled, I installed the stopper last. Stand in front of the sink with the stopper in on hand and pull the drain lever behind the faucet all the way up. Now, orient the stopper so the hole for rod is closest to you and insert it in the drain (the opposite of your way). It will slip over the rod, and when you push the drain lever down the stopper is higher in the drain and the water will drain quicker. To take it out, push the drain lever all the way down and pull the stopper out.
Great tip, thanks! I love it!
Every single time my sister clogged up the sink growing up, our Dad gave us this tutorial ( so about once a month for an entire decade).
Sounds right!😅
Good job Sparky. I think your way of installation works best.
I've seen the spring clip placed as in the drawing quite a bit, perhaps because it's a little easier to do it that way. But I agree with you. Thanks!
Thank you! It all just looked like parts until I watched. You made it easy.
Hey Bill love seeing you use that HIGH Voltage insulated screwdriver as a pointer
LOL!😅
Can't be too careful, someone may have grounded to the plumbing!
Nice demo , I always did em like you did ... Thx for posting ...
You do things to high quality standards, that's why. Thanks Eddy!
thanks sparky! I never would of done it without you.
Great job!
Love this video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Bill. What do you do if the spring clip keeps coming off whenever I pull up on the lever?
Thanks, Bill 👍
No problem Don, thanks!
Lovly good explain. 👍👍👍
Thank you 🙂
very informative, thank you!
Thanks so much!
Ur an og man lobe ur videos
Thanks so much!
Thank you for showing me this, I never had a dad to teach me anything, so it's people like you that fill the gap of knowledge
Glad to help! Best wishes!
Brilliant!
Thanks!
Let me run a situation by you that I can’t find an answer for.
Several weeks ago two non-contact voltage testers were both unable to detect live voltage in a 3 foot deep by 1 foot wide by 4 long trench with an energized NM cable running across the trench from side to side with about a foot of exposed cable visible. I suspect it had something to do with the fact that the cable was very close to earth. I had a greenlee NCV and another electrician had a Fluke. Both failed. It could have turned into a very bad day if I had not been very careful to hold onto the insulation of my cable cutters.
There’s a lot more to this story. Without going into all the details, why didn’t those testers detect voltage? They were both tested prior and after on an outlet.
Was it type UF Direct-Burial Underground Cable? If so, there is so much insulation that it would be difficult for the Fluke 1AC to sense the voltage.
@@SparkyChannel it was white, so I don’t believe it was UF unless UF was white eons ago before my time. It did look heavily insulated, now that you mention it. Thanks for the reply.
New channel the Drippy Channel?
LOL!
I found out the hard way that those ball rods differ between manufacturers. Now when I break one I just buy the tail piece too and change the whole thing if I can't get the original part easily.
Good tip, thanks!
👍👍
Thanks Theo!
I once pulled a cloth out my step daughters bathroom sink drain tha looked like a little mouse . And she wondered why her drain was running slow. .
LOL, good one. I pulled a full-size mop head out of a main line once....
@@SparkyChannel can we say trying to clean things out the hard way . Lol
👍
Thanks!
@@SparkyChannel yes sir, even the simple things need some instruction! Thank you.
@@jbrise7560 I agree, thanks!
Sparky I love you but can you quit with the plumbing. How about showing us how to bend some 500 mcm with nice bends into switchgear?
More electrical videos are coming, that's for sure. Right now, I'm working long days doing a house renovation. Please hang in there.
engineered nightmare.
Hi Ted! It's not so bad once you get used to it. But you're right there should be a better design.