100% do the CAD episode. Showing us everything you’re doing is awesome, because the quality of what you’re building and the videos is outstanding. Keep up the great work mate.
Yes Richard I would definitely mount at the muffler, just think corrugations mate and you'll soon realise yep extra mount !! Also droning exhaust are SO irritating and obnoxious to listen to hour after hour !! Just be careful the exhaust flange at the rear doesn't overheat, melt and catch the top shocky rubber on fire, maybe a shield of some sort !! The front exhaust mount on the chassis and the center mount on the chassis maybe try and tig the inside of the mount as well for extra strength. High mount alternator look great, just remember mate when your lifting the truck, don't make it too high because at the end of the day you've got to work on it comfortably and climbing up and down the front of the truck to fix things ALL THE TIME gets really old really quickly and it's exhausting, especially when it comes to putting things on the tray. The last thing you want is trying to lift heavy or or quid things onto and off an over the top high tray !! I'll watch whatever vids you put up mate, it's your channel, I'll watch it all. Seeya Rob.............excellent vid by the way Richard.
Thanks Rob, yeah I reckon you're right with the muffler, I'll get it done! I plan on doing a lot more welding on the chassis mounts once it's all apart before it goes to paint, I'll be sure to get some inside passes on it. Also a good call with that heat shield. Not going too high, only another inch - agree with you 100%!
Definitely make episodes on those things! You do good work an very humble when mistakes are made, good watching learning an seeing project come together
If you don’t need clearance for the tyres through the suspension cycle, consider sticking with the stock spring height. Much better handling, most of the time, especially if you’re planning a lap of the country. Cut fenders, fit sliders etc instead. Will still perform great off-road with those tyres. Spend the money on lockers and some low range gears from Marks.
Cheers Rhys, I've already ordered my suspension unfortunely. Not going too crazy, 3" lift and no body lift. I'll likely get the lockers anyway, hadn't considered the low range gears though, good thought!
Showing every step would be fine but your the one that has to spend the time filming, up to you Richard, when you say lifting it are you talking just suspension or body lift as well? The project is looking awesome
Thanks mate! I'm just talking about suspension, I think it's only going to go up an inch or so, I think its got a 2" lift at the moment and was planning a 3".
Hey mate, love the work. I have a barra 80 zf6. The rod shop kit needs a fgmk2 power steering pump. Alternatively there is a bloke doing press in fittings for the fgmk1 pumps on Facebook market place. My conversion is the banner for barra cruisers. Not as tidy as yours looks but it works. Cheers Clayton
Hey Clayton, cheers for that info! Might see if I can get a press fitting. I’ve definitely looked at that photo for reference, arguably tidier than mine, good job! How many litres per hundred are you getting and how many kws out of interest?
@@DesignedandBuilt I'm getting roughly 16lph. Not bad at 3 tonne and shaped like a brick. Mines only pushing stock power for now. Will get it tuned shortly but more for drivability and economy
Awesome mate the only thing I can say is the muffler placement. Yes it’s all well to put it where there’s space but you also get a different sound out the end, depending on where you put it. Turbo cars and v8s always sound better with it as far back as you can before the tip.
Thanks Edan, I have honestly never thought about that. Cheers for letting me know, I guess we'll see how it turns out and I can always modify if need be?
I would look at your first mount being a more solid mount to the engine or gearbox. Then flex join after that. That way the first section of exhaust will move with the engine as it vibrates and twists under load.
Yep thats a good idea, I don't really know I can move the flex plate any further back otherwise it ends up being past the TF case, are you just talking about adding another mount on the dump pipe?
You could mount somewhere around the bellhousing then again around the transfer case. So 2 mounts solid to part of the drive train that has movement. Then put you flex joint before your next mount to the chassis. The only thing to consider is the exhaust "growing" as it heats up so the mounts need some way to account for that. I know Al from the skid factory has covered this but i cant remember exactly what he does.
Yep that first mount and flex pipe is going to get absolutely hammered. One piece pipe along the gearbox to a mount directly off the rear of the gearbox/transfer (not fully solid mount, something that has a little bit of give to account for heat expansion like two opposing thin L brackets, check out factory subaru mounts for inspiration) then flex after that mount.
Cheers Aaron, I’ll get around to it eventually once the build slows down a little! Nothing fancy though, measuring tape, straight edge and a bevel will get you most of the way there!
Great work Richard. Always look forward to your next video so would also enjoy the CAD video. Was just wondering about engine rock and the ability of the exhaust as you've mounted it to cope with the movement. Is the flex joint you've put in enough?
Hey Adrian, I initially thought that it would be but reflecting on it and talking to a few people I'm not so sure anymore. Thinking about mounting the exhaust to the bell housing and then putting the flex plate further back in the system.
Great video mate, I would also be keen to see you make a CAD vid! Personally I don't think you should need that extra exhaust mount, your exhaust tip mount should hold the upper weight just fine
Hey Daniel, I should have explained I've got another tank going there as well on the passenger side, if you flash to the CAD image you can see it! Cheers, glad you enjoy the videos.
CAD. Please. Continue vids on everything boet. Excellent
100% do the CAD episode
Cheers Cam, might have to!
An episode on CAD would be cool
First time CAD and cool have been used in the same sentence! I might go into some more detail.
Show us everything you do mate, loving it
Ha! Cheers Andrew will do.
100% do the CAD episode. Showing us everything you’re doing is awesome, because the quality of what you’re building and the videos is outstanding. Keep up the great work mate.
Thank you Geoff, very kind words. I’ll try my best!
Yes Richard I would definitely mount at the muffler, just think corrugations mate and you'll soon realise yep extra mount !! Also droning exhaust are SO irritating and obnoxious to listen to hour after hour !! Just be careful the exhaust flange at the rear doesn't overheat, melt and catch the top shocky rubber on fire, maybe a shield of some sort !! The front exhaust mount on the chassis and the center mount on the chassis maybe try and tig the inside of the mount as well for extra strength. High mount alternator look great, just remember mate when your lifting the truck, don't make it too high because at the end of the day you've got to work on it comfortably and climbing up and down the front of the truck to fix things ALL THE TIME gets really old really quickly and it's exhausting, especially when it comes to putting things on the tray. The last thing you want is trying to lift heavy or or quid things onto and off an over the top high tray !! I'll watch whatever vids you put up mate, it's your channel, I'll watch it all. Seeya Rob.............excellent vid by the way Richard.
Thanks Rob, yeah I reckon you're right with the muffler, I'll get it done! I plan on doing a lot more welding on the chassis mounts once it's all apart before it goes to paint, I'll be sure to get some inside passes on it. Also a good call with that heat shield. Not going too high, only another inch - agree with you 100%!
Mate,..the more detail the better, CAD, micro installs, all of it works for me.
Cheers Rod, I'll try and do my best!
Exhaust heat wrap is really good for insulating dump pipes. Can put your hand on the exhaust after a drive
Thank you, I think I'll have to get some!
Cad episode would be awesome. Love your work
Cheers Aiden, sounds like we could be on for one!
👍🏻 keep the videos coming!! Love all the details and this build!
Cheers mate, will do!
Ceramic coat all you're hot side parts sick build btw
I was thinking about doing theManifold, turbo and dump pipe (ie up to the flex plate). Is that what you mean?
Richard , I for one would love to see how you got the vehicle into CAD, very interesting mate. Keep up the good work.
Cheers Matt, I'll get onto it!
We want to see all of it! Show us anything and everything.
Great work as always, Richard!
Ha, cheers Rhys! Will do!
I reckon the exhaust mounts look awesome. The engineering in them looks quite unique. Ver noice👌🏼
A cad episode would be awesome too
Thank you!! We’ll to one I reckon :)
Great job 👏
Definitely make episodes on those things! You do good work an very humble when mistakes are made, good watching learning an seeing project come together
Thanks Lachlan, kind words! Will do :)
If you don’t need clearance for the tyres through the suspension cycle, consider sticking with the stock spring height. Much better handling, most of the time, especially if you’re planning a lap of the country. Cut fenders, fit sliders etc instead. Will still perform great off-road with those tyres. Spend the money on lockers and some low range gears from Marks.
Cheers Rhys, I've already ordered my suspension unfortunely. Not going too crazy, 3" lift and no body lift. I'll likely get the lockers anyway, hadn't considered the low range gears though, good thought!
@@DesignedandBuilt 3” is fine. We use to fit 6” coils and 2” body lift to 80s and GQ wagons. They looked good but handled like pigs :)
Showing every step would be fine but your the one that has to spend the time filming, up to you Richard, when you say lifting it are you talking just suspension or body lift as well? The project is looking awesome
Thanks mate! I'm just talking about suspension, I think it's only going to go up an inch or so, I think its got a 2" lift at the moment and was planning a 3".
Hey mate, love the work. I have a barra 80 zf6. The rod shop kit needs a fgmk2 power steering pump. Alternatively there is a bloke doing press in fittings for the fgmk1 pumps on Facebook market place. My conversion is the banner for barra cruisers. Not as tidy as yours looks but it works. Cheers Clayton
Hey Clayton, cheers for that info! Might see if I can get a press fitting. I’ve definitely looked at that photo for reference, arguably tidier than mine, good job! How many litres per hundred are you getting and how many kws out of interest?
@@DesignedandBuilt I'm getting roughly 16lph. Not bad at 3 tonne and shaped like a brick. Mines only pushing stock power for now. Will get it tuned shortly but more for drivability and economy
Planning on getting it tuned
Yep at some point for sure!
I was thinking yesterday you're due for a video. More vids the better. Il be watching. 👌
Haha cheers mate, glad you hear!
Awesome mate the only thing I can say is the muffler placement. Yes it’s all well to put it where there’s space but you also get a different sound out the end, depending on where you put it. Turbo cars and v8s always sound better with it as far back as you can before the tip.
Thanks Edan, I have honestly never thought about that. Cheers for letting me know, I guess we'll see how it turns out and I can always modify if need be?
@@DesignedandBuilt that’s it man. It might not sound bad at all. You might like the way it sounds. Just see how you go. Loving it so far.
I would look at your first mount being a more solid mount to the engine or gearbox. Then flex join after that. That way the first section of exhaust will move with the engine as it vibrates and twists under load.
Yep thats a good idea, I don't really know I can move the flex plate any further back otherwise it ends up being past the TF case, are you just talking about adding another mount on the dump pipe?
You could mount somewhere around the bellhousing then again around the transfer case. So 2 mounts solid to part of the drive train that has movement. Then put you flex joint before your next mount to the chassis.
The only thing to consider is the exhaust "growing" as it heats up so the mounts need some way to account for that.
I know Al from the skid factory has covered this but i cant remember exactly what he does.
Yep that first mount and flex pipe is going to get absolutely hammered.
One piece pipe along the gearbox to a mount directly off the rear of the gearbox/transfer (not fully solid mount, something that has a little bit of give to account for heat expansion like two opposing thin L brackets, check out factory subaru mounts for inspiration) then flex after that mount.
@@MattyP4x4 Cheers Matty, yep I think I'll change it!
I wish you did this project on a GQ patrol LWB...I’d be stealing some IP. Keep up the content mate! 👍🏻
hahaha, you can always have a crack at modelling it yourself!?
Loving the videos, vlog everything! Enjoying the content on your build.
Glad you enjoy it, I'll try to!
Show us the inside of your welds, I was curious to see how no back purge resulted.
Great videos though, loving the build! 👍🏼🤙🏼
Alright I'll try to remember in one of the next episodes, there is porosity for sure!
These videos are cool bud keep up the good work 🤙
Cheers Joseph!
Would love to see how you put the rig into CAD. Great job so far!
Cheers Aaron, I’ll get around to it eventually once the build slows down a little! Nothing fancy though, measuring tape, straight edge and a bevel will get you most of the way there!
Awesome job mate
Cheers mate, appreciate it!
@@DesignedandBuilt keep it coming , love the details too
Absolutely worth back purging your stainless welds, will crack over time without it
Great work still 🤙🏻
Cheers Trav, looks like I’m about to learn the hard way!
Building my dream car mate. Keep up the great work
Cheers Bryce, will do!
Great work Richard. Always look forward to your next video so would also enjoy the CAD video. Was just wondering about engine rock and the ability of the exhaust as you've mounted it to cope with the movement. Is the flex joint you've put in enough?
Hey Adrian, I initially thought that it would be but reflecting on it and talking to a few people I'm not so sure anymore. Thinking about mounting the exhaust to the bell housing and then putting the flex plate further back in the system.
Hell yeah! The quality of this build is fantastic for your first. My first was an abortion! 😅
haha thanks Michael, taking a long time but hopefully worth it in the end!
Great video mate, I would also be keen to see you make a CAD vid!
Personally I don't think you should need that extra exhaust mount, your exhaust tip mount should hold the upper weight just fine
Cheers Marshall, looks like I might have to do one, and cheers for that input, I'm thinking I might just put another one in for good measure!
I might’ve put the tank where the muffler is. Better weight distribution and more room for a draw at the back. Really like the videos though!
Hey Daniel, I should have explained I've got another tank going there as well on the passenger side, if you flash to the CAD image you can see it! Cheers, glad you enjoy the videos.
Awesome Job mate, Im looking at starting my FJ build soon and was looking for a body model if you're willing to share
My body isn't the most accurate thing in the world, more of a visualisation tool. DM me on instagram for info! happy to try and help you out.
Speak to patriot camper as they have done the same project and have scanned your type truck. They may share some information with you.
Hey mate, just went back to this video and I'm wondering what cad software you're using. Cheers brother
Just using Solidworks mate!
what do you clean the exhaust with before tig welding it to get the colour ?
Using acetone before I weld it! Admittedly I’m only getting that colour on the flanges when I’m using a bit of filler.
@@DesignedandBuilt yeah i use acetone swell but don't get colour for some reason, i might need to lower my amps and go slower
I want one where do i sign up, this thing is so sick well done man
Thanks mate!
Why no V-Bents on the exhaust?
Isnt this supposed to be easier in terms of service and making sure it doesnt leak?
Honestly first time having a go at an exhaust, didn't really know what I was doing. Now have a V Band and have modified it a fair bit.
Don’t lift it, run standard height and clearance guards to fit
Not going to go too wild! Only 3”, it already has a 2”