Justin, my 13 year-old son and I watch a lot of your videos together. Thanks for not cussing or bad-mouthing people/products. You've got a top-notch channel and I really appreciate you sharing.
I use to be a fabricator for rail road, and recently opened my own shop where I fab turbo kits. This video is 100% the best pipe fab instructional learning tool there could be. Great job!!!!
I went to work at a shortline about 5 years back . I have 25 years in hands on all aspects steel fabrication experience They hired me to build their fabrication skills and put together a shop tied to the mechanical department . But had to put me in exsisting department that had an opening. Which was in mechanical.. I took the job becuase of the apeal of the benefits. I designed and built spark arrestor attachment pipes for gp38 locomotives with 2 stroke engines. Which can throw some serious fire up in the air. I think I will just say it was Interesting working for the railroad..fun at times even. I made it 3.5 years found out my mechanical manager was actually trying to pass my skills off as his own. Which has zero of at all in the fabrication world . And was succsesfull enough to get a regional promotion about 6 months after I quit. He is good at stealing knowledge from many people in his career. I can't say I miss railroading
Very good instructional video! One trick I use for drawing a straight line on pipe, is to lay a length of angle iron on it, such as 1"×1" ×1/8. It works very well. Larger pipe, I'd use larger angle. It self centers.
I have to agree with Deke Bell and his 13 year old son. It's nice to see a video of this quality without all the cussing and backlash you get on other channels. Very nice. I really like your band saw too!
Great vid. Like to learn from other trades. I am an Electrician. Months back I was installing a fence. Needed to know a measurement. My college graduate daughter was quite surprised that algebra was needed. The 3 4 5 formula in essence. "Honey everything you use the second step was math after the idea came to mind". Thanks for the education.
Love watching this kind of work. I do this kind of work for a living so I take quite the appreciation in seeing others methods in figuring this stuff out. I'll be working on an x pipe configuration for my 98 grand Cherokee with a 5.2 V8. I think what's going to be best in my opinion would be a combination of the splayed x portion @ 45* spread and 45* turns to capture the end and make parallel. I tend to like this style of X-pipe for the best flow characteristics as the merge portion is done in a straight section of tube versus a radius. However, packaging is king and sometimes that don't always work. Thanks for the awesome content Justin!
This is the first video of tours I watched. I have to say, it's hard for me to find a series like this that is helpful and has a host that I like. Thanks.
Have to thank you for this one Justin, watched this a couple times before tackling the exhaust in my project 280z video series. Those extruded bends were AWESOME to work with.
Thanks for sharing your expertise with those of us who want to learn more and better ourselves, fellow gear heads and fabricators who aspire to become on par with you. Keep up the good work.
You recommended stainless bros. for their products. I found out they are a 3 hour trip from me, and thry delivered in 23hrs! Also, i watched this to refresh myself on how to do all these fun combos! Thanks again for all the good vids!
Justin, You're explanations of every step in the process is easy to follow. I look forward to you fabricating a complete stainless exhaust system for my 55' Chevy Truck in the near future. Hope all is well. Matt P.
Just a tip from a US standard to metric convert. If you use a metric tape to do all your measurements the math gets much easier Instead of trying to figure out 1/3rd of 2 9/16" you just figure 1/3rd of 90mm. You can do that in your head, ez pz!!! Still a great vid on how it's done. I'll file this one away for future reference.
Quick tip from me that works- tack weld the pipe to the bit of box section support. Keeps job well supported and easier to get set up right off the saw. Quick clean up with grinder and ready to reuse the supports.
A much faster and accurate way to get a centerline on tubes is to take two pieces of tubbing of the same diameter, clamp or tack them together at the ends, take a straightedge or similar, lay it over perpendicular to the lenght and drag it along the tubes. Flip them over and do the other side. Boom! Lines on exact center exactly opposite each other!
i love these, taught me already couple of things. You have a great channel. I really can't believe you're literally letting people know how to do these nice fab work. Thanks man. I would need to learn how to tig weld.
Austin, another quality video, chuck full of information with little easy math. Great Italian bandsaw with the motor mounted on a gear reduction gear box, plus water-based cutting fluid. I saw what appears to be a 220 volt sticker. I bought a MIG in 1984 build in Italy by the largest manufacturer in their country, still works fine today, but no TIG. Being forced to retire way early, I will own one. I know what’s like to run out of shield gas, why does it always happen on the weekend. Plus, I have seen the cost for 25/75 from $28.52 in 84 to $112.18 just in late 2019 and have every receipt in the file cabinet. Keep up the good work. As a long time subscriber, I guess I will never understand a dislike. ? ASE Master Tech since 78 - Retired
That was a masterclass! Thank you. I would love to have seen how you welded that up, and in particular how you got right into the tightest spots. I would also like to know if you would argon back those tubes when welding the complete pipe. great work. I learnt a lot.
Small tip for the bandsaw for anyone. Slow the feed down, and have just enough pressure so that the slower fed blade has a chance to bite rather then skate or slide across the material. Great video Justin, quality work and content as always 😀
Andrew Lang Yes - it's a dead slow process. I should have mentioned these cut shots were sped up to 400-600% and they still look slow haha. Thanks for the tip!
I’m sure you have answered this before, but what’s you tig set up. Like how hot are you running, how thick is the pipe, and what size tungsten are you using. And what size filler metal is that
Always thought those were high end, hard to make...let someone else do it. Excellent job of explaining, the math isn't that hard. Made my own. THANK YOU
ALWAYS wear a leather glove on the hand that's holding a part for grinding or deburring. The grinder can slide off the part and onto your hand, a deburring bit can break and the nub will cut you like a knife. Hands- on experience from a greybeard.
You are one seriously gifted individual!! Not just a gifted fabricator but an extremely gifted teacher as well. It’s always a pleasure and a learning experience to watch anything you put out!! Thank you for being kind enough to share what God has given you with the world
I was always shown to make a common line on pipe just use a straight piece of angle iron! Was always easier and quicker. Enjoyed the video though. Clear concise instructions. When tacking you use a hotter amperage than if you where actually welding. I don't get to do much tig unfortunately.
From what I understand, you could also make a y pipe by welding two angled pieces together and lobbing off the end. Still have to swage or flare it to make it round, but it should be a little faster fab wise. Probably better for making Y's that have a bigger single pipe than the two individual pipes. Which, by the way, are made for overall flow rate matching. If you have a V8 making 600HP, then you have to either have 1 pipe that can handle all of that flow, or two pipes that can handle half of that flow. 2.5 duals can do it, but a 2.5 Y into 2.5 will likely choke it. This is why you go 2.5 Y into 3.5, as the total tubular area of a single 3.5 is about the same as two 2.5 pipes.
I've actually built a few Y pipes this way. Honestly it's the same whether you use a radius or a straight with some kind of angle cut. How you mentioned does make it a rather simple and time effective way but can limit packaging too. Whatever fits and has relatively good flow characteristics is king! 😎
On an X pipe the elliptical area should be the same as the cross section of the pipe. The outlet pipes can have reduced diameter after the X without flow loss as long as the cross section of the outlet pipes together isn't less than 1.5 times the cross section of one of the inlet pipes. Also on a y pipe the exit should be 1.5 times the cross section of the inlet pipes. If the inlet pipes are the correct diameter merging into the same size pipe will be a restriction. You need a larger outlet because the frequency of the exhaust pulse doubles.
Would you be willing to tell us what kind of badsaw you use and maybe a price range we are looking at? If not I can respect that and thank you I love the videos please keep making them.
Killer tutorial! I have subbed! I now know the best way of fitting merge pipes! I'm beginning to hate fabrication because of the grinding dust. I may have to build a downdraft grinding table like the one in the other video.
bad ass man. just became a subscriber. great content. Quick question. For you h pipe you used 2" for the cross over? That is smaller that the exhaust tubing itself? It looked like 2.5".
I'm curious about how you weld in between those pipes when you can't even get the cup in there. I see you tagged them prior to full assembly, but you didn't weld them. I assume you could weld them at anytime, but to get in between those close junctions like on the X's, this is where you will have problems welding because of the cup on the tip
Instead of cutting 4x 90-deg pieces and then 4x 22,5 deg again, you can immediately cut 1x 90 deg to get 2 halves, and then each half 22,5 deg in its center. As it is the same cut, the 2 halves will be exact mirrors of each other.
Really enjoyed this video. Very well done and straight forward. Could definitely see you doing stuff on TV kinda reminded me of Stacey David. Keep it up man!
So if you had a way less of degree of entry (8° vs 45°) and working with baby pipe (1.25”) wouldn’t it be better to cut less of the diameter and extend the length of the cut? (So like .125 “on each pipe diameter cut running 1.79” so the area of the cut is equivalent to the flow of one pipe or should it be two?)
Hello @The Fabrication Series! thank you for sharing your knowledge, I would like to know if it is possible to know if I calculate custom sizing for each type of X-pipe motor together with the anti-drone J-pipe and if it is possible to calculate certain frequencies to be able to reach a desired sound as a final result. Thanks a lot.
So, the actual trick here, at least for the H pipe, to get the best scavenging flow is to place it where the pipes get hottest. Some thermal tape or paint from someplace like Omega Engineering on the pipe before a little run will reveal the spot.
This is cool your pipes here. I just got my first welder ever. A flux core wire welder. I had to rent a truck for my first project and pick up some 24ft pipes. I'm making a sliding gate frame. I'm a long ways from what you're doing here. Someday lol.
Great stuff! On the "Y" pipe to larger outlet could you say oval the three inch outlet in a press and then cut the intersecting two pipes with a shallower cut to then intersect? Can you do the math on that?
Nice bandsaw, too bad the built in stop is too short. You should drill and tap the face of it for an add on piece that makes the stop higher, so you can make the cut for the parallel x-pipe on outside of the elbows without a big vise-clamp and a piece of box section.
Great vid! Could have really used this 15 years ago when i made a custom turbo kit to a 3 inch downpipe y'd into dual 3" outlets on a 94 grand prix with a built 3400! Lots of trial and error lol. This will really help for my 78 dodge d150! Any ideas on using a cut off wheel for this? That's how i did the grand prix...i don't have room in my small garage or access to a band saw
Justin, my 13 year-old son and I watch a lot of your videos together. Thanks for not cussing or bad-mouthing people/products. You've got a top-notch channel and I really appreciate you sharing.
Deke Bell good comment deke!
You win at parenting :)
Saludos from Argentina.
Lame
@@dmgmail7021 nothing lame about it, go do something productive with yourself
Best comment I have read in months…
I use to be a fabricator for rail road, and recently opened my own shop where I fab turbo kits. This video is 100% the best pipe fab instructional learning tool there could be. Great job!!!!
Your the best
I went to work at a shortline about 5 years back .
I have 25 years in hands on all aspects steel fabrication experience
They hired me to build their fabrication skills and put together a shop tied to the mechanical department .
But had to put me in exsisting department that had an opening. Which was in mechanical..
I took the job becuase of the apeal of the benefits.
I designed and built spark arrestor attachment pipes for gp38 locomotives with 2 stroke engines. Which can throw some serious fire up in the air. I think I will just say it was Interesting working for the railroad..fun at times even.
I made it 3.5 years found out my mechanical manager was actually trying to pass my skills off as his own. Which has zero of at all in the fabrication world . And was succsesfull enough to get a regional promotion about 6 months after I quit. He is good at stealing knowledge from many people in his career.
I can't say I miss railroading
Very good instructional video! One trick I use for drawing a straight line on pipe, is to lay a length of angle iron on it, such as 1"×1" ×1/8. It works very well. Larger pipe, I'd use larger angle. It self centers.
I've done that too. You don't need to measure either, unless you need to mark both sides.
Thank you for saying "locking pliers" instead of using that common brand name. This is proper.
Thats awesome work Justin!!
I made mine with a 4 inch grinder and it came out perfect
I have to agree with Deke Bell and his 13 year old son. It's nice to see a video of this quality without all the cussing and backlash you get on other channels. Very nice. I really like your band saw too!
Great vid. Like to learn from other trades. I am an Electrician. Months back I was installing a fence. Needed to know a measurement. My college graduate daughter was quite surprised that algebra was needed. The 3 4 5 formula in essence. "Honey everything you use the second step was math after the idea came to mind". Thanks for the education.
I really wished RUclips was around when i was young.
Love watching this kind of work. I do this kind of work for a living so I take quite the appreciation in seeing others methods in figuring this stuff out. I'll be working on an x pipe configuration for my 98 grand Cherokee with a 5.2 V8. I think what's going to be best in my opinion would be a combination of the splayed x portion @ 45* spread and 45* turns to capture the end and make parallel. I tend to like this style of X-pipe for the best flow characteristics as the merge portion is done in a straight section of tube versus a radius. However, packaging is king and sometimes that don't always work. Thanks for the awesome content Justin!
THESE BUILDS ARE VERY DIFFICULT TO DO WITH OUT KNOWING HOW !!! YOUR FAB TECHNIQUES ARE FABULOUS!!!
You are da man
This is the first video of tours I watched. I have to say, it's hard for me to find a series like this that is helpful and has a host that I like. Thanks.
Have to thank you for this one Justin, watched this a couple times before tackling the exhaust in my project 280z video series. Those extruded bends were AWESOME to work with.
Thanks for sharing your expertise with those of us who want to learn more and better ourselves, fellow gear heads and fabricators who aspire to become on par with you. Keep up the good work.
Great video. A decent, stationary disc sander or belt sander can make up for a less than perfect bandsaw for us home hobbyists.
You recommended stainless bros. for their products. I found out they are a 3 hour trip from me, and thry delivered in 23hrs! Also, i watched this to refresh myself on how to do all these fun combos! Thanks again for all the good vids!
Cool I am going to build my own exhaust for my C8 corvette this is invaluable to me so I will do some of your recommended shopping.
Justin, You're explanations of every step in the process is easy to follow. I look forward to you fabricating a complete stainless exhaust system for my 55' Chevy Truck in the near future. Hope all is well. Matt P.
Might be the best video on YT related to stainless exhaust transitions.💪👍
Yes, yes, yes. Very professional, extremely good video. God bless your work and everything with it.
Just a tip from a US standard to metric convert. If you use a metric tape to do all your measurements the math gets much easier Instead of trying to figure out 1/3rd of 2 9/16" you just figure 1/3rd of 90mm. You can do that in your head, ez pz!!! Still a great vid on how it's done. I'll file this one away for future reference.
Quick tip from me that works- tack weld the pipe to the bit of box section support. Keeps job well supported and easier to get set up right off the saw. Quick clean up with grinder and ready to reuse the supports.
A much faster and accurate way to get a centerline on tubes is to take two pieces of tubbing of the same diameter, clamp or tack them together at the ends, take a straightedge or similar, lay it over perpendicular to the lenght and drag it along the tubes. Flip them over and do the other side. Boom! Lines on exact center exactly opposite each other!
Justin,
I always wondered on fabing merges. I want to thank you for taking the time and showing us this. Thank you !
i love these, taught me already couple of things. You have a great channel. I really can't believe you're literally letting people know how to do these nice fab work. Thanks man. I would need to learn how to tig weld.
Austin, another quality video, chuck full of information with little easy math. Great Italian bandsaw with the motor mounted on a gear reduction gear box, plus water-based cutting fluid. I saw what appears to be a 220 volt sticker. I bought a MIG in 1984 build in Italy by the largest manufacturer in their country, still works fine today, but no TIG. Being forced to retire way early, I will own one. I know what’s like to run out of shield gas, why does it always happen on the weekend. Plus, I have seen the cost for 25/75 from $28.52 in 84 to $112.18 just in late 2019 and have every receipt in the file cabinet. Keep up the good work. As a long time subscriber, I guess I will never understand a dislike. ?
ASE Master Tech since 78 - Retired
That was a masterclass! Thank you. I would love to have seen how you welded that up, and in particular how you got right into the tightest spots. I would also like to know if you would argon back those tubes when welding the complete pipe. great work. I learnt a lot.
Thank you for the long explanation of things. It takes time and money to present this like you have. Well done.
Finally a thorough explanation of the differences. Fantastic video!
Small tip for the bandsaw for anyone. Slow the feed down, and have just enough pressure so that the slower fed blade has a chance to bite rather then skate or slide across the material. Great video Justin, quality work and content as always 😀
Andrew Lang Yes - it's a dead slow process. I should have mentioned these cut shots were sped up to 400-600% and they still look slow haha. Thanks for the tip!
The Fabrication Series No problem Justin:) I’ll say thank you for all the tips you’ve given us 😀
What TPI (Teeth per Inch) is good for .065 wall tubing?
jwright650 as high as you can find, i use a 10tpi, but super thin wall i might go to a 16tpi or finer.
I'm using a 10tpi and it rips the teeth right off the blade.
Thank for your time. It will help me in my learning process.
Regards from Mozambique.
Silvio Coelho
I’m sure you have answered this before, but what’s you tig set up. Like how hot are you running, how thick is the pipe, and what size tungsten are you using. And what size filler metal is that
This guy is the number one source from getting into welding.
Always thought those were high end, hard to make...let someone else do it. Excellent job of explaining, the math isn't that hard. Made my own. THANK YOU
ALWAYS wear a leather glove on the hand that's holding a part for grinding or deburring. The grinder can slide off the part and onto your hand, a deburring bit can break and the nub will cut you like a knife. Hands- on experience from a greybeard.
You been motivating for quite a while, thank you God bless you, awesome content
Oh...!!!! Your Bandsaw is from Italy!!! Gooooood this!!!
Made in China Will work absolutely fine
@@emeliealegonero4043 probaly, but MARPOLFR it's a Italian company located near Bologna!
X=Z is Y my brain hurts. Nice work. If you get tired of welding and Fab you should do voice overs or DJ.
All this looks simple then, when you have a good tools.
You are one seriously gifted individual!! Not just a gifted fabricator but an extremely gifted teacher as well. It’s always a pleasure and a learning experience to watch anything you put out!! Thank you for being kind enough to share what God has given you with the world
I've yet to see one of your videos and not come away wanting to thank you 👍
New sub, love the content bro. Thanks
I was always shown to make a common line on pipe just use a straight piece of angle iron! Was always easier and quicker.
Enjoyed the video though. Clear concise instructions. When tacking you use a hotter amperage than if you where actually welding. I don't get to do much tig unfortunately.
From what I understand, you could also make a y pipe by welding two angled pieces together and lobbing off the end. Still have to swage or flare it to make it round, but it should be a little faster fab wise. Probably better for making Y's that have a bigger single pipe than the two individual pipes. Which, by the way, are made for overall flow rate matching. If you have a V8 making 600HP, then you have to either have 1 pipe that can handle all of that flow, or two pipes that can handle half of that flow. 2.5 duals can do it, but a 2.5 Y into 2.5 will likely choke it. This is why you go 2.5 Y into 3.5, as the total tubular area of a single 3.5 is about the same as two 2.5 pipes.
I've actually built a few Y pipes this way. Honestly it's the same whether you use a radius or a straight with some kind of angle cut. How you mentioned does make it a rather simple and time effective way but can limit packaging too. Whatever fits and has relatively good flow characteristics is king! 😎
Is it weird I like watching his content even though I don’t resells fabricate stuff much
On an X pipe the elliptical area should be the same as the cross section of the pipe. The outlet pipes can have reduced diameter after the X without flow loss as long as the cross section of the outlet pipes together isn't less than 1.5 times the cross section of one of the inlet pipes.
Also on a y pipe the exit should be 1.5 times the cross section of the inlet pipes. If the inlet pipes are the correct diameter merging into the same size pipe will be a restriction. You need a larger outlet because the frequency of the exhaust pulse doubles.
The BEST online tutorial video I've seen yet, on any subject. Great Job!
Wow, I was not expecting this to be so informative. Awesome Love it
Would you be willing to tell us what kind of badsaw you use and maybe a price range we are looking at? If not I can respect that and thank you I love the videos please keep making them.
I think I found the name just not the model number
I never thought about keeping the shielding on after the heat. Good tip!
Great video... Just re-watched it AGAIN!
I'm going to be honest, I'm jealous of your bandsaw. What tooth count blade are you running on that for cutting stainless? Thanks for the video.
Killer tutorial! I have subbed! I now know the best way of fitting merge pipes!
I'm beginning to hate fabrication because of the grinding dust. I may have to build a downdraft grinding table like the one in the other video.
bad ass man. just became a subscriber. great content. Quick question. For you h pipe you used 2" for the cross over? That is smaller that the exhaust tubing itself? It looked like 2.5".
I'm curious about how you weld in between those pipes when you can't even get the cup in there. I see you tagged them prior to full assembly, but you didn't weld them. I assume you could weld them at anytime, but to get in between those close junctions like on the X's, this is where you will have problems welding because of the cup on the tip
You have awesome videos man! Very easy to follow... well done!
Very cool tips for when I build my own exhaust for my truck. BTW which Optrel hood are you using?
side option to bend saw is laser tube cutter, if its 5 axis its a crazy toy, we have 3 axis and it makes some things easy
Hey I'm Italian, you do a fantastic job here! may I ask you what's the brand of your bandsaw?
That's real professionalism
Instead of cutting 4x 90-deg pieces and then 4x 22,5 deg again, you can immediately cut 1x 90 deg to get 2 halves, and then each half 22,5 deg in its center. As it is the same cut, the 2 halves will be exact mirrors of each other.
Cas Tuyn I do a lot of things different in vids for visual reference which makes it easy to follow. Cutting pieces individually is one of them.
Really enjoyed this video. Very well done and straight forward. Could definitely see you doing stuff on TV kinda reminded me of Stacey David. Keep it up man!
Inspirational videos. You provide EXCELLENT information, and make it All look so Easy .... if Only ....
Super video, great skills. Just a tad jealous about that bandsaw :)
Thanks for taking the time out to share the knowledge that took you years to master! Awesome videos.
So if you had a way less of degree of entry (8° vs 45°) and working with baby pipe (1.25”) wouldn’t it be better to cut less of the diameter and extend the length of the cut? (So like .125 “on each pipe diameter cut running 1.79” so the area of the cut is equivalent to the flow of one pipe or should it be two?)
Stuffs so pretty!
This is the easiest method I have seen yet
Dude, by the way, love your vids. Thanks for taking the time and effort to help us get better and recognize new approaches. Respect.
Hello @The Fabrication Series! thank you for sharing your knowledge, I would like to know if it is possible to know if I calculate custom sizing for each type of X-pipe motor together with the anti-drone J-pipe and if it is possible to calculate certain frequencies to be able to reach a desired sound as a final result. Thanks a lot.
You and kyle voss. The only ones I watch!!
Top notch work bro from NZ
Big thanks for including the H pipe as I need to fabricate one of those for my Jeep in a few weeks and don't see any way an X pipe is going to fit.
Those look fantastic - great layout & fit-up.
On the H tube I would drill the holes to the size you need. Then saddle weld the cross tube onto the H tubes.
Awesome video.
I run a millermatic 211 obviously you are tig welding but do you have any advice for solid wire feed.
Thanks this video helped alot while trying understand how those Y sections are fabricated 👌🤗
So, the actual trick here, at least for the H pipe, to get the best scavenging flow is to place it where the pipes get hottest. Some thermal tape or paint from someplace like Omega Engineering on the pipe before a little run will reveal the spot.
This is cool your pipes here. I just got my first welder ever. A flux core wire welder. I had to rent a truck for my first project and pick up some 24ft pipes. I'm making a sliding gate frame. I'm a long ways from what you're doing here. Someday lol.
thank you very much, very much helped
Excellent video. Thank you for the mathematical precision calculations. 👍 Subbed.
Great stuff! On the "Y" pipe to larger outlet could you say oval the three inch outlet in a press and then cut the intersecting two pipes with a shallower cut to then intersect? Can you do the math on that?
Plz also make a proper welding video on these pieces(maybe with walking the cup technique) Thanks in advance!!
So which x pipe design one will bring the best power?
Great video, thanks
Awesome...Super Informative!!!
Master class... yet again. Many thanks.
Very nice work,simply expressed and well executed. Thank you.
You have made so many great videos and several incredible ones, this one is one of the best! Thanks for sharing your math!
Awesome video! Extremely informative. Great work.
Nice bandsaw, too bad the built in stop is too short. You should drill and tap the face of it for an add on piece that makes the stop higher, so you can make the cut for the parallel x-pipe on outside of the elbows without a big vise-clamp and a piece of box section.
Looks like a Kama bandsaw! Very precise for a bandsaw, I love mine :-D
Daniel Buck It is. This thing is a total beast.
Thank you!
Great vid! Could have really used this 15 years ago when i made a custom turbo kit to a 3 inch downpipe y'd into dual 3" outlets on a 94 grand prix with a built 3400! Lots of trial and error lol. This will really help for my 78 dodge d150! Any ideas on using a cut off wheel for this? That's how i did the grand prix...i don't have room in my small garage or access to a band saw
I’m kinda wondering why your electrode stick out is so far and what are you running on your flowmeter?
Excellent videos
So what if you have one straight and the other coming at a 45. How do u go about merging them? Just cope it?
Thanks for the tips✌️
Always excited to see new videos. This one was awesome just what I wanted to learn for some upcoming project ideas
which band saw blades to use for SS ? I watched another video where the SS killed the blade instantly