Fail to understand the extent of the leak. There is a drain hole below the cupboard . The belly band is usually caulked on the top between the body and the band and rivets are under the belly band gasket so almost no water should enter unless submerged. Yes there may be moisture damage over extended time but not to that extent!
Unfortunately that was not the case. No caulking at all. I have just completed the seal myself. My theory (not proven until it rains) is that the curved hollow rubber collected all the water throughout the entire side and funnelled it to the end at the door, the one place that I was aware of that had a hole. The trailer was tilted to the front at the time and it had rained for 10 days. SP
Actually, slight change in theory. There's a fiberglass pocket on the inside of the joint that runs under the rubber. It's supposed to protect the inside, but the unsealed metal strip that holds the rubber, just lets it fill with water. The one hole is at the end on the line, so all that water exits there. I have since sealed off both the strip and every rivet all around the camper. SP
I'm a tech for a trailer company. I saw the first cracked video, and I knew the other part would need some sort of reinforcement. The fix is actually going to be stronger than the original. I've been welding for over a decade. I would bet a large amount of money that you'll never have an issue again
Hi,Slim. The breakage you experienced is common on trailers of that design. My Boler has bee fixed/reinforced at some time in its life. So has half the bolers out there .I am a machinist who works in a fabrication shop. I'm going to build a new frame for my camper and will discuss this situation with our engineer. I will keep you posted on what we come up with.
A camp trailer as much as we hate to know is that the beating we give them makes serious maintenance necessary. Forgo it and you end up with rotten woodwork and leaks galore.
I heard it described once, that every time an RV is pulled - it is subject to hurricane force wind and earthquake like disruption. Yet we expect them to stay solid as a rock.@@jonnycando
I wouldn't want a replacement frame from a company whose first frame failed. I do remember thinking, that when you exchanged the steel frame for an aluminum one, that you would have trouble. A steel frame with a coating of Line-X might have been a better choice, albeit heavier. You do give your trailer a bigger pounding than most travelers.
That's the issue with the aluminum frame, it's lightweight but the stuff is brittle compared to steel. The maker should have anticipated that those angled portions would be a major stress point and reinforced the area with extra plates like your repairs accomplished. Good luck with the leak chasing!
They did put reinforcement plates in that very spot which, at the very least, shows foresight on their part. All in all, I think they did their due diligence in spite of it breaking. I do however hope they make additional adjustments after this incident, though. Then again, most people don't use their campers like Slim does. They typically don't go "off road" with their campers which would put many times more stress on the frame than what would be considered normal operating conditions.
I used to have a small 21 ft Class C. I had a lot of fun with it over the years, but it started to become a money pit. Something was ALWAYS going wrong with it. I decided to go car camping instead and just throw up a decoy tent to hold my place when I am away from camp. So much easier to drive, wash, park and I find all I have to do is make sure the maintenance is done. Don’t miss my RV at all now! Thanks for the video Slim! I love the calm and centered way you approach your problems. You are an inspiration to me!❤
One of the many things I love about you Slim…. You take great care of your trailer and suv! You find something wrong, you fix it! Right away and not next year! And you do things the right way! Thanks for continuing to give me something worth watching! 😊
Poor Slim, it's never ending work for you 😖 but, you never sweat it, and always keep a great, and calm attitude. We should all take a lesson from you. It's a good thing you are so handy, that you are able to handle all these smaller repairs on your own. Anyway....keep up the good work, and thanks so much for all you enjoyable videos 😊
So much for customer service! My wife and I were talking about purchasing a trailer like yours for next year but seeing your experience and others we’ll be looking for something more reliable.
Might I suggest a Little Guy Mini Max by Extreme Outdoors....it is a little teardrop that has a steel chassis with aluminum cage for the roof and sides. Have had mine for 2 years and have been happy. The manufacturer seems pretty good about repairs as I had a few in my 1st year which is to be expected in a new build. So far nothing else in the second year.
@@SlimPotatohead Interesting., a golden opportunity missed. I mean, 172k subscribers, and many of which probably bought a Lair or Outback because of these videos. Is it really worth losing many potential sales due to not shelling out what is essentially the price that should be allotted due to shoddy work anyhow? Oh well, I know that I enjoy your exploits not for just the FG trailer, although it is how I found your channel, while upgrading my own FG Egg.
Slim. Try reporting to Transport Canada as a Safety Defect In Manufacture. Our trailers are certified as “safe” to be on our motorways. This structural defect makes it not safe. Send pics and any docs from Trillium. I reported failure of the dealer installed electrical connections on my Santa Fe to my Vintage Trillium. They expanded the existing recall to include my 2015 SF. If they already have complaints yours will be a good one to add.
I had a Sunrader which is a molded fiberglass motorhome. It too had that same type of belly band trim along the join line and it too had numerous leaks where there were fasteners. But it only leaked where the installers had drilled a hole that went completely though to the trailer interior. Sealing the fastener heads is just one of two measures needed for leak prevention in that area. The other preventative, must do, measure is to understand the cause and keep the trapped water from getting high enough to reach the fastener holes. What happens in a rain storm is that water gets trapped inside that channel and it rises up high enough to reach those fasteners. When you are parked on a slope it will build up very high at the lowest point the channel which just happened to be that end of the channel by your door. Fortunately there is a solution and that is to add some weep hole slots along the lower edge of the channel. I used a small cut-off disc in my Dremel rotary tool to create a series of horizontal slots for water drainage. Much like the weep hole slots you see at the lower edge of RV sliding windows. That will give the rain water an easy exit to the exterior instead of it exiting inside through the fastener locations. It takes a steady hand to cut those slots some do take the time to tape a piece of thin plywood onto the fiberglass right up against the channel right were you are working to prevent dinging the fiberglass if a slip of the tool should happen.
The manufacturer's response is very disappointing. I would be very upset with that. Troubleshooting the leak was fascinating. I would have never thought that much water could come from such a small leak area. Thank you for all your!
Slim, You made it through the hurricane last year without much leaking except around the door as I recall. I think you are doing pretty good overall as far as leaks go and are probably experiencing normal travel trailer wear and tear. As far as the frame goes shame on the manufacturer you are practically an ambassador for Canadian travel and OB. Who else gives so much of themselves and all the free advertising you supply
If you need to remove that Dicor sealant again in quantity, try using an oscillating tool with a flat scraper on it... MUCH faster and easier! And EternaBond tape is FANTASTIC as well.
Eternabond tape is awful. Anyone who has gone up on the roof on a warm day can attest to how fragile it is. One mis-step and its ruined. Dicor or other similar sealants are much more forgiving.
One thought I had after your live chat where you talked about this was that you could run a coated steel cable or two under the trailer from bumper to hitch. That way you would keep the front and back from separating in the event of a failure. Probably not necessary now based on the engineer’s report, but I thought I would share anyway.
First thing I thought about as well. I'm an engineering technologist and I used to be a machine designer many years ago. Maybe even rig up a torsion bar system to join the back and front sections to prevent separation.
I know you've had it inspected, but I'm concerned your frame will crack again, right at the weld where the doubler is. It's going from triple thickness and weldment right to the thin-section frame material. Please watch it like a hawk.
We had a united sigh of relief about the under carriage trailer getting a form of endorsement. What a relief! I hope the weather stays good in your area for drying out the camper and correcting the last leak problem. It is my hope the company gets back to you about letting other buyers know to Be Aware of the issues. Thank you for caring when so many don't. Stay safe.
Hopefully you can avoid re-reviting the entire top half of the shell to the bottom, though it may come to that at some point to renew the seal. Btw, when you zoom in on the rivet hole at 18:50, you can also see a little moisture-loving critter walking around between the fiberglass layers. There might be some wood to worry about sandwiched between the fiberglass.
So i told my friend who has the same camper as you about that frame problem. And much to my surprise, He Imediately went and looked and found micro cracks on both sides and is taking steps to get it fixed.
I always suggest independent suspension. It’ll take away some of the beating of the trailer, especially single axle trailers. Think of the tires as a basketball, if it’s full of air it’ll bounce high, half full it barely bounces. Since we (most people) fill tires to maximum pressure, our trailer is bouncing heavily down the road. Especially small trailers bounce easily breaking frames and mirrors, and causing leaks
I thought a torsion axle *was* independent suspension, as the body of the axle is rigidly attached to the frame, while each wheel is free to move without influencing or being influenced by, the opposite wheel.
@@tc2882 there are no coil springs, and no shocks. They’re slightly independent to move very little, only by flexing the axle to be independent. System I suggest is 100% independent
it is true that many trailers just have tires set to the recommended maximum load pressure. I strongly suggest weighing a trailer when loaded for a trip and setting the tire pressures (perhaps with a 20-25% buffer) for that load. My trailer tires say max pressure 80psi, and the dealer had them set at 80psi, but I weighed it and my axles are carrying 6800 lls. So basically 1700lbs per tire. I then checked the tire charts for my size tire to find out pressure would be required for 2200 lbs (plenty of buffer) and that pressure turns out to be 55psi. Thus I have been running them at 55 psi for the last 6000 miles without any issue and a much smoother ride. Nothing moving much in the trailer at all anymore as far as I can tell.... safe travels
I have had the argument for years about the LACK of shocks on trailers! The side wall on the trailer tires are to take the bouncing load.....thats just ridiculous.....thats why trailer tires have a shelf life and don't last. Shocks would help out in many ways on a trailer. For one, the fish plates are a good start, but I would add a support rod truss under the tongue of the trailer to counteract the bending load!! That coming from 45 years of fabrication and fixing problems.
I always thought that the best campers were the two piece fiberglass campers. I guess they all have their issues. Plus, you use yours more than the average user does. Considering where you’ve been in it the last few years it’s actually held up pretty good. The frame cracking however is inexcusable from the manufacturer. I hope you keep it longer though as it now has character!
Always a pleasure to see a Slim upload! I love the theodical way you approach problems and find solutions. We RVer folk are always finding issues to deal with. It's all part of the game. All the best
The engineer was being very "safe" throughout both report's. I'm much like yourself and I am always cautious! To appease my mind I'd do a welding course also to better understand these processes. I drive myself insane 😂
Very good video Slim , an excellent warning to anybody that may have that type of trailer with Aluminum frame. Shame on the manufacturer for being a Weasel and saying that you needed to bring the trailer to them for repair/replacement. ! It is very obvious that they did not design that Aluminum frame properly for that application. Is there any type of Consumer Affairs in Canada that people can call to report and file a complaint about a defective product? Thanks for taking us along Slim. Wishing you all the best with your Camper Trailer!
I don't believe the trailer manufacturer makes the actual frame but purchase it from a company that does. It should be honoured under warranty with reimbursement regardless of where the trailer was fixed.
I recall awhile back reading another YT small trailer owner had an aluminum frame break, but they replaced it with a stronger steel frame. Can't recall who it was though. Any good hot rod/4X4 fabrication shop could build a new frame, though obviously it wouldn't be cheap, though less than a new trailer.
Your concern for your fellow camper is warranted. Wow. I have shared the video and have 2 friends who believe they have the same frame. Just sent them messages. I hope the company comes clean and acts accordingly. This could break them, but then again I was shocked that you only paid $1500 for the frame! Sheesh. Great deal, well... almost.
I used to call a creative solution for a problem a "MacGyver" but now when I do something ingenious to solve a complex problem I say I "Potatoheaded" it! Thanks Slim!
Tator, when it rains it pours! Be glad you found the spot before things become much worse! And the frame, that was a nightmare, but now you can have sweet dreams sleeping under the stars in some really beautiful & cool location! Rest easy! ❤
I am glad you checked out the weld. I bet you will see more on this issue from others with this type of frame & trailer. Better to be over safe than sorry.
I think your Outback has been talking to my Aliner!! It has a few hidden leaks I'll be fixing this winter!! Hey if your in the states in May 2024, The North American Aliner Rally is in Western NC, You could be my guest!
To remove the caulking, heat the tip of a 1 inch metal putty knife. It glides through the caulk. I do about 5 inches and then heat it up again. Note to others. Only use this on Aluminum or fiberglass roofs.
Sure appreciate the positive attitude you share regardless of issues beyond your control. Seeing your issue with a leak in the rivets reminds me of another camper who makes resealing the rivets under the trim a yearly maintenance project on his trailer. As always, I’m looking forward to your next adventure.
soooo glad I found you again! I used to watch your channel when I was dreaming of traveling and now that I have bought a big van to convert, I remembered how you for the shower into that little teardrop trailer and immediately thought of Potoahead 😂 missed you bro! I just duck off media a lot
Well there you are someone said not to change the frame keep the steel one. But now it is fixed better than new awesome job. The response from manufacturer is normal. BRING IT BACK WE WILL FIX IT. yep not worth it good video. Live and learn 🛠️🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦
Hey Slim. If you still want more reassurance with the frame issue go to a hardware store. Buy 2 lengths of 3/8” aircraft cable and cable clamps. Loop one end around your axle and the other to your safety chains under the trailer loosely on each side. Zip tie them up out of the way. If the frame fails again at least the trailer will safely stay with you.
I drilled out and replaced the rivets in my fiberglass trailer. The replacements I purchased have solid heads. I put a dab of Micor gutter sealant in the holes before inserting and “popping” them. Another place I’ve had leaks was around the windows. I found that it is important to keep the drains in the rubber seals cleaned out.
I have a vintage fiberglass camper (one of the original Trilliums from the 70s) and I follow a lot of groups, forums, etc. related to fiberglass campers. You are certainly not alone in your aluminum frame problem. Lots of folks have shared similar issues in the FB groups - serious problems with the frames and radio silence from the manufacturer after the first few days of reporting the problems. If you visit the “Trillium Trailer Owners” group on Facebook and search “Outback” “aluminum frame” you will see that this is not an uncommon problem. In fact, I just saw a for sale post in the group when searching and the seller is quick to share that theirs does NOT have the aluminum frame, because of the reputation. I’ll stick with my nearly 47 year old original Trillium vs these new ones. Belly bands have had their (fixable) issues for generations, so the Outback folks building them should have known that doing it this way was going to be problematic. Sorry you’re having these problems, but sadly - not surprised. Your advice to steer clear of them is good advice.
We added a shock suspension system to our 20-foot single axle ,it made a huge difference in the ride . Also, change your trailer tires for light truck tires , they are also much more flexible.
Your frame issue is common on Boler and Trillium trailers too. Failure is always at the weld at the drop frame point. Good point .. inspecting your trailer does not take long, yet could safe major grief or catastrophe.
Slim hi I'm Brian and I'm a retired diesel mechanic and I wanted to tell you when you was getting the aluminum trailer that as much off roading you do i would have kept the steel frame.and. I kinda worried about that happening and unfortunately it did but it could have been much worse. But we used to have aluminum trailers and we would find cracks on them all the time and usually when that happened we would scrap the trailer if it was on the main frame. . Just keep a close eye on it because aluminum is prone for cracking and as much off roading u do it's likely to happen again just keep an eye on it I been watching your channel for about 3 years. I'm just very thankful that you found it when you did. I think u have a guardian angel watching over u. Thanks be to God. Enjoy your channel and keep up the good work. I'm retired and now days I live in my Dodge caravan in Las Cruces NM. And as soon as I get my disability check approved I hope to be out on the road and hopefully we can meet one day have a great day. I'm from new Orleans. Moved here 3 years ago and I was heading to Arizona but ended up having a couple problems and decided to stay here.
Sorry about your misfortunes, Slim. The engineers stamp was a smart move on many levels. Glad you found the leak (hope it's the only one). I will say this - you've made it easier to hunt for a small trailer because I've eliminated THAT manufacturer off the list. Cheers from the other coast. (Yes I know there are three) 🤟
When your warranty runs out like his did you are own your own got to remember were you bought it is were have have to return it for repairs they are all the same if they dont have faciltys around the country then you may get a break, if not must take it back were you bought it!
I disagree with so many of your commenters. I think you’ve had this trailer for a while and it’s been good to you. Things will break and deteriorate, the environment is hard on manufactured goods and they require maintenance and some restoration over the course of its life. Wise move on the engineers opinion. Provides a level of comfort.
Just FYI the lap sealant is really only a secondary barrier and it's designed primarily to redirect water. The primary seal is between the thing and the roof. If it's leaking that seal has failed and that is the seal it actually needs to be repaired. This requires removing the vent and replacing sealant between the vent and the roof. You may also find when you remove the vent that is cracked or damaged in some other way. If that's the case then you want to replace the vent.
@@SlimPotatohead Yeah I saw the whole thing I was just saying that if you suspect something is leaking simply removing the lap sealant and replacing it isn't the right way to fix it.
My goodness, I don't remember your Aliner ever giving you this much headache. sorry for all this, but as always, your upbeat positivity is second to none. You really uplift all who encounter your videos.
I have a 2004, almost identical to yours and I am in Calgary. I reached to the manufacturer via email and phone the past three summers looking to buy parts and get a quote for some maintenance / repair work. I have never gotten a response.
I had to get my computer module replaced in my Honda($1800us) and the guy at the dealership didn’t put the air conditioning drain hose into the hole outside the car…at first I thought a water bottle had spilled…then I thought maybe the door is leaking. After a week I pull back the carpet and see that my air conditioning had been pouring water into the floor of my car. It was bad. I ran a power cord to the car and used a box fan in my car every night for a week or so and it dried it out pretty good.
One issue I see with the frame is that the problem area is part of a span that runs from the tongue jack to the axle. All the load is carried to the ground at those two ends. You could take a lot of that load off the joint by adding stabillizer jacks at the front corners or by using something like bottle jacks directly under the joint when parked. That would alleviate some of the stress the joint takes, including when you're moving about inside the trailer.
I know right? Why hasn't anyone else mentioned this? not sure if slim has the 13 or 15' trailer but the span between tongue wheel and axle is looking to be about 10' yet the manufacturer is only using a 2 x 3 ALUMINUM box beam to support part of the trailer weight AND people AND gear AND snow. I'm 250lbs and I'll bet that all I need to do is jump once or twice and that beam will be bent if not cracked as well. I am guessing but the crack is probably dead centre to axle/tongue wheel (or really close). For $30-40 aluminum stabilizer jacks would fix the problem (or at least stop making it worse) when stationary and camping.
Dr. Slim, as an off road training instructor, let me offer some opinions. Don't want to force my ideas on you, just offer some options… 1. I don’t believe the weight savings of aluminum, nor the corrosion resistance, is worth more than the strength and easy repairability of steel. I know steel rusts, etc. but you can always paint with rust converter, prime with POR15 and a good paint. Aluminum is, in my opinion, too brittle for this application-especially with the stresses of going on those rough roads. 2. When you are ready for another vehicle, I suggest Toyota: a 4Runner, Tacoma, or, best of all, Land Cruiser 60, 80, or 100. You can find used ones for a good price, though not too good on gas. But they are very reliable. 3. First things to do to an off road vehicle are:___A. better tires (your choice of BF Goodrich AT was excellent). Always go with an LT tire. You need the extra protection off road. Other good brands are Falken, Cooper, General… ___B. Suspension upgrade. I think the best for the price is the Old Man EMU from ARB. The nitro charger version is more than excellent for your application. 4. For extra capability off road, at least a rear locker will help in situations like when you were stuck in the mud with the trailer. Without a locker, the tire with traction will not turn, and the one without traction will spin. An ARB Air Locker is an excellent choice. 5. Without the locker, you can sometimes-gently-apply the breaks as you are trying to power out. This sometimes helps the tires get power. 6. Also, rock the steering wheel left to right. This helps the front tires gain some extra traction. NOTE: As the Brits in Land Rovers say: “As slow as possible, as fast as necessary”. 7. You can also use some kind of snow traction setup, as well as MaxTrax. 8. Having jacks is good: you can, if necessary, jack up the vehicle a bit and stack traction aids: like even rocks, under the tire. 9. Cheap clay Cat litter can often work great to help with traction on snow and ice. Check out the article about modifying a Casita trailer for off road on Expedition Portal: Just search for : Off-road Heavy Duty Casita Build I hope this helps you a bit. Thanks for all the videos, I really enjoy your channel! Hope to bump into you sometime once I get my HJ45 finished! I am looking into getting a Casita or Scamp, or similar myself! Regards: Jose
Slim, I'm in Calgary and I've had issues this year with the manufacturer as well, and I wasn't even trying to have something fixed. Last I spoke to them I was told Joe is sick and has left the company. They also told me they moved to Carsland. My 2004 Outback has a steel frame and so far no issues, however water was a major problem. I was going to just sell it, but because your videos have been so inspiring I ended up replacing the completely saturated wood, then glassed it all back together. Too much to write in a comment, really looking forward to your belly band fix.
Great video sir ! I feel you are absolutely right about sealing up the rivets. I have a 6x10 converted cargo trailer and I need to check out the welds. As far as I know there are no problems BUT to check the welds will give me peace of mind and cost me a bit of time verses loosing my rig. Thank you for sharing
Thank you for sharing your adventures. Campers are like boats. Something is always shaking loose. I’m glad you have resolved your frame failure and hopefully, resolved your leak. We have had a few leaks along our travels, too, but it’s all part of the adventure 😊. Many safe and enjoyable travels ahead.
@randomspirit , that is exactly how facts get distorted. This is NOT a Scamp, and the Scamps have STEEL frames, not aluminum. Please again, do not generalize. Thanks! SP
Thank the maker we europeans have galvanized steel frames for our RV/caravans. Alko frames are German made quality products that last forever. Mine is still going strong after 20 years. The stability friction hitch is another piece of gear you might want to check out.
That would be nice! I’m not aware of US manufacturers that galvanize. I’ve seen videos where some people who we’re restoring trailers had the frames galvanized.
To answer the question about the frame design change - we had the same thing happen about a month after Slim’s Michigan video was released. In talking with Outback trailers they said their prior welder was not installing a reinforcement plate on the bottom of the frame that was on the blueprint for the aluminum frame. At some point they caught it and changed them going forward and have a different welder with aluminum welding background but it was implied that all early Outback aluminum frames are missing the plate.
Leaks can also come from door seals. Even if you condition the rubber every six months, like instructed, especially in a blowing wind. I would check that, if the flood returns.
I think an orbital hitch would be a great investment for you if you're planning on doing more off-road towing. It can help to prevent bottoming out and improve handling, which can make your camper safer and more enjoyable to tow.
Hi Slim - we really enjoy your videos. Would like to see more on what you are reading, and your philosophy videos, as well as of course your travels! Thanks
would Flex seal work??? I am glad you found the Problems with the leaks and also got the frame fixed!!! I Love your Videos --- Margie ----from -----Florida-----
That's crazy about the frame. I remember watching the new frame video years ago and was surprised to see the title of this video. Glad it's all fixed up now.
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Fail to understand the extent of the leak. There is a drain hole below the cupboard . The belly band is usually caulked on the top between the body and the band and rivets are under the belly band gasket so almost no water should enter unless submerged. Yes there may be moisture damage over extended time but not to that extent!
Unfortunately that was not the case. No caulking at all. I have just completed the seal myself. My theory (not proven until it rains) is that the curved hollow rubber collected all the water throughout the entire side and funnelled it to the end at the door, the one place that I was aware of that had a hole. The trailer was tilted to the front at the time and it had rained for 10 days. SP
Actually, slight change in theory. There's a fiberglass pocket on the inside of the joint that runs under the rubber. It's supposed to protect the inside, but the unsealed metal strip that holds the rubber, just lets it fill with water. The one hole is at the end on the line, so all that water exits there. I have since sealed off both the strip and every rivet all around the camper. SP
I'm a tech for a trailer company. I saw the first cracked video, and I knew the other part would need some sort of reinforcement.
The fix is actually going to be stronger than the original. I've been welding for over a decade. I would bet a large amount of money that you'll never have an issue again
Hi,Slim. The breakage you experienced is common on trailers of that design. My Boler has bee fixed/reinforced at some time in its life. So has half the bolers out there .I am a machinist who works in a fabrication shop. I'm going to build a new frame for my camper and will discuss this situation with our engineer. I will keep you posted on what we come up with.
I love the way you have changed the logo on the front so the manufacturers are not getting anymore free advertising!
You sure have had a lot of problems with this camper yet you keep a good attitude. Your a hard worker. 😢
I like how proactive he is, too. Proper prior planning prevents problems.
A camp trailer as much as we hate to know is that the beating we give them makes serious maintenance necessary. Forgo it and you end up with rotten woodwork and leaks galore.
I heard it described once, that every time an RV is pulled - it is subject to hurricane force wind and earthquake like disruption. Yet we expect them to stay solid as a rock.@@jonnycando
@@bradhall3948 Humble Road says that. He says that he is afraid for the way some people do a van build.
I'm sure a few beers 🍻 🍻 help.
I wouldn't want a replacement frame from a company whose first frame failed. I do remember thinking, that when you exchanged the steel frame for an aluminum one, that you would have trouble. A steel frame with a coating of Line-X might have been a better choice, albeit heavier. You do give your trailer a bigger pounding than most travelers.
That's the issue with the aluminum frame, it's lightweight but the stuff is brittle compared to steel. The maker should have anticipated that those angled portions would be a major stress point and reinforced the area with extra plates like your repairs accomplished. Good luck with the leak chasing!
They did put reinforcement plates in that very spot which, at the very least, shows foresight on their part. All in all, I think they did their due diligence in spite of it breaking. I do however hope they make additional adjustments after this incident, though. Then again, most people don't use their campers like Slim does. They typically don't go "off road" with their campers which would put many times more stress on the frame than what would be considered normal operating conditions.
I used to have a small 21 ft Class C. I had a lot of fun with it over the years, but it started to become a money pit. Something was ALWAYS going wrong with it. I decided to go car camping instead and just throw up a decoy tent to hold my place when I am away from camp. So much easier to drive, wash, park and I find all I have to do is make sure the maintenance is done. Don’t miss my RV at all now! Thanks for the video Slim! I love the calm and centered way you approach your problems. You are an inspiration to me!❤
One of the many things I love about you Slim…. You take great care of your trailer and suv! You find something wrong, you fix it! Right away and not next year! And you do things the right way! Thanks for continuing to give me something worth watching! 😊
Thank u for the information we love it and thank you for the pictures be safe love you
This camper would have drove me nuts by now😜🥴😵💫
Poor Slim, it's never ending work for you 😖 but, you never sweat it, and always keep a great, and calm attitude. We should all take a lesson from you. It's a good thing you are so handy, that you are able to handle all these smaller repairs on your own. Anyway....keep up the good work, and thanks so much for all you enjoyable videos 😊
So much for customer service! My wife and I were talking about purchasing a trailer like yours for next year but seeing your experience and others we’ll be looking for something more reliable.
There are many manufacturers out there with excellent reputations. Consider looking into Bigfoot and Armadillo. SP
Might I suggest a Little Guy Mini Max by Extreme Outdoors....it is a little teardrop that has a steel chassis with aluminum cage for the roof and sides. Have had mine for 2 years and have been happy. The manufacturer seems pretty good about repairs as I had a few in my 1st year which is to be expected in a new build. So far nothing else in the second year.
@@SlimPotatohead Interesting., a golden opportunity missed. I mean, 172k subscribers, and many of which probably bought a Lair or Outback because of these videos. Is it really worth losing many potential sales due to not shelling out what is essentially the price that should be allotted due to shoddy work anyhow? Oh well, I know that I enjoy your exploits not for just the FG trailer, although it is how I found your channel, while upgrading my own FG Egg.
Slim. Try reporting to Transport Canada as a Safety Defect In Manufacture. Our trailers are certified as “safe” to be on our motorways. This structural defect makes it not safe. Send pics and any docs from Trillium.
I reported failure of the dealer installed electrical connections on my Santa Fe to my Vintage Trillium. They expanded the existing recall to include my 2015 SF.
If they already have complaints yours will be a good one to add.
I had a Sunrader which is a molded fiberglass motorhome. It too had that same type of belly band trim along the join line and it too had numerous leaks where there were fasteners. But it only leaked where the installers had drilled a hole that went completely though to the trailer interior. Sealing the fastener heads is just one of two measures needed for leak prevention in that area. The other preventative, must do, measure is to understand the cause and keep the trapped water from getting high enough to reach the fastener holes. What happens in a rain storm is that water gets trapped inside that channel and it rises up high enough to reach those fasteners. When you are parked on a slope it will build up very high at the lowest point the channel which just happened to be that end of the channel by your door. Fortunately there is a solution and that is to add some weep hole slots along the lower edge of the channel. I used a small cut-off disc in my Dremel rotary tool to create a series of horizontal slots for water drainage. Much like the weep hole slots you see at the lower edge of RV sliding windows. That will give the rain water an easy exit to the exterior instead of it exiting inside through the fastener locations. It takes a steady hand to cut those slots some do take the time to tape a piece of thin plywood onto the fiberglass right up against the channel right were you are working to prevent dinging the fiberglass if a slip of the tool should happen.
Sounds like an excellent fix. Thanks for the tip! SP
The manufacturer's response is very disappointing. I would be very upset with that. Troubleshooting the leak was fascinating. I would have never thought that much water could come from such a small leak area. Thank you for all your!
Slim, You made it through the hurricane last year without much leaking except around the door as I recall. I think you are doing pretty good overall as far as leaks go and are probably experiencing normal travel trailer wear and tear. As far as the frame goes shame on the manufacturer you are practically an ambassador for Canadian travel and OB. Who else gives so much of themselves and all the free advertising you supply
If you need to remove that Dicor sealant again in quantity, try using an oscillating tool with a flat scraper on it... MUCH faster and easier! And EternaBond tape is FANTASTIC as well.
Yep! I've done that one too. Works a treat!
Maybe some warmth from a heat gun could help too? To soften it???
Eternabond tape is awful. Anyone who has gone up on the roof on a warm day can attest to how fragile it is. One mis-step and its ruined. Dicor or other similar sealants are much more forgiving.
I've used self leveling sealant on a roof vent, worked great for me.
One thought I had after your live chat where you talked about this was that you could run a coated steel cable or two under the trailer from bumper to hitch. That way you would keep the front and back from separating in the event of a failure. Probably not necessary now based on the engineer’s report, but I thought I would share anyway.
First thing I thought about as well. I'm an engineering technologist and I used to be a machine designer many years ago. Maybe even rig up a torsion bar system to join the back and front sections to prevent separation.
I know you've had it inspected, but I'm concerned your frame will crack again, right at the weld where the doubler is. It's going from triple thickness and weldment right to the thin-section frame material. Please watch it like a hawk.
What a great idea to put a camera there to spot the leak! Great news that you found it. Hope that takes care of that. Glad your frame is good to go.
We had a united sigh of relief about the under carriage trailer getting a form of endorsement. What a relief! I hope the weather stays good in your area for drying out the camper and correcting the last leak problem. It is my hope the company gets back to you about letting other buyers know to Be Aware of the issues. Thank you for caring when so many don't. Stay safe.
Hopefully you can avoid re-reviting the entire top half of the shell to the bottom, though it may come to that at some point to renew the seal. Btw, when you zoom in on the rivet hole at 18:50, you can also see a little moisture-loving critter walking around between the fiberglass layers. There might be some wood to worry about sandwiched between the fiberglass.
OMG I just saw that too! there are insects living beneath the fiberglass and presumably eating the wood from the inside out!
Great catch 👀. That’s probably not good.
So i told my friend who has the same camper as you about that frame problem. And much to my surprise, He Imediately went and looked and found micro cracks on both sides and is taking steps to get it fixed.
I always suggest independent suspension. It’ll take away some of the beating of the trailer, especially single axle trailers. Think of the tires as a basketball, if it’s full of air it’ll bounce high, half full it barely bounces. Since we (most people) fill tires to maximum pressure, our trailer is bouncing heavily down the road. Especially small trailers bounce easily breaking frames and mirrors, and causing leaks
I thought a torsion axle *was* independent suspension, as the body of the axle is rigidly attached to the frame, while each wheel is free to move without influencing or being influenced by, the opposite wheel.
@@tc2882 there are no coil springs, and no shocks. They’re slightly independent to move very little, only by flexing the axle to be independent. System I suggest is 100% independent
it is true that many trailers just have tires set to the recommended maximum load pressure. I strongly suggest weighing a trailer when loaded for a trip and setting the tire pressures (perhaps with a 20-25% buffer) for that load. My trailer tires say max pressure 80psi, and the dealer had them set at 80psi, but I weighed it and my axles are carrying 6800 lls. So basically 1700lbs per tire. I then checked the tire charts for my size tire to find out pressure would be required for 2200 lbs (plenty of buffer) and that pressure turns out to be 55psi. Thus I have been running them at 55 psi for the last 6000 miles without any issue and a much smoother ride. Nothing moving much in the trailer at all anymore as far as I can tell.... safe travels
I have had the argument for years about the LACK of shocks on trailers! The side wall on the trailer tires are to take the bouncing load.....thats just ridiculous.....thats why trailer tires have a shelf life and don't last.
Shocks would help out in many ways on a trailer.
For one, the fish plates are a good start, but I would add a support rod truss under the tongue of the trailer to counteract the bending load!!
That coming from 45 years of fabrication and fixing problems.
@@larryboschen1287 Are you talking "service life" or "shelf life"?
I always thought that the best campers were the two piece fiberglass campers. I guess they all have their issues. Plus, you use yours more than the average user does. Considering where you’ve been in it the last few years it’s actually held up pretty good. The frame cracking however is inexcusable from the manufacturer. I hope you keep it longer though as it now has character!
Always a pleasure to see a Slim upload! I love the theodical way you approach problems and find solutions. We RVer folk are always finding issues to deal with. It's all part of the game. All the best
The engineer was being very "safe" throughout both report's. I'm much like yourself and I am always cautious! To appease my mind I'd do a welding course also to better understand these processes. I drive myself insane 😂
Very good video Slim , an excellent warning to anybody that may have that type of trailer with Aluminum frame. Shame on the manufacturer for being a Weasel and saying that you needed to bring the trailer to them for repair/replacement. ! It is very obvious that they did not design that Aluminum frame properly for that application. Is there any type of Consumer Affairs in Canada that people can call to report and file a complaint about a defective product? Thanks for taking us along Slim. Wishing you all the best with your Camper Trailer!
I don't believe the trailer manufacturer makes the actual frame but purchase it from a company that does. It should be honoured under warranty with reimbursement regardless of where the trailer was fixed.
I recall awhile back reading another YT small trailer owner had an aluminum frame break, but they replaced it with a stronger steel frame. Can't recall who it was though.
Any good hot rod/4X4 fabrication shop could build a new frame, though obviously it wouldn't be cheap, though less than a new trailer.
Your concern for your fellow camper is warranted. Wow. I have shared the video and have 2 friends who believe they have the same frame. Just sent them messages. I hope the company comes clean and acts accordingly. This could break them, but then again I was shocked that you only paid $1500 for the frame! Sheesh. Great deal, well... almost.
The price on the frame is $1500 as an adder on their website for new trailers. I traded in my old steel frame as part of the deal. SP
I used to call a creative solution for a problem a "MacGyver" but now when I do something ingenious to solve a complex problem I say I "Potatoheaded" it!
Thanks Slim!
My grandpa who raised me told me " when something is broken and you fix it usually you don't have to worry about that problem for awhile"
Tator, when it rains it pours! Be glad you found the spot before things become much worse! And the frame, that was a nightmare, but now you can have sweet dreams sleeping under the stars in some really beautiful & cool location! Rest easy! ❤
I am glad you checked out the weld. I bet you will see more on this issue from others with this type of frame & trailer. Better to be over safe than sorry.
I enjoy watching you and what you do, and I also learn English with your wonderful and understandable English.Thanks Slim ❤
I think your Outback has been talking to my Aliner!! It has a few hidden leaks I'll be fixing this winter!! Hey if your in the states in May 2024, The North American Aliner Rally is in Western NC, You could be my guest!
Thanks Rick. The big solar eclipse is in April, I'll have to see where that takes me! SP
@@SlimPotatohead I will hopefully be camping at ground zero at Rend Lake Missouri for the eclipse. Can't make reservations until 10/8 Near St. Louis.
Glad you found your leak. Thangs like that drive me crazy.
That was very scary. Glad it’s ok now.
Love the old switcheroo at the end ❤
To remove the caulking, heat the tip of a 1 inch metal putty knife. It glides through the caulk. I do about 5 inches and then heat it up again.
Note to others. Only use this on Aluminum or fiberglass roofs.
Sure appreciate the positive attitude you share regardless of issues beyond your control. Seeing your issue with a leak in the rivets reminds me of another camper who makes resealing the rivets under the trim a yearly maintenance project on his trailer. As always, I’m looking forward to your next adventure.
soooo glad I found you again! I used to watch your channel when I was dreaming of traveling and now that I have bought a big van to convert, I remembered how you for the shower into that little teardrop trailer and immediately thought of Potoahead 😂 missed you bro! I just duck off media a lot
Well there you are someone said not to change the frame keep the steel one. But now it is fixed better than new awesome job. The response from manufacturer is normal. BRING IT BACK WE WILL FIX IT. yep not worth it good video. Live and learn 🛠️🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦
Hey Slim. If you still want more reassurance with the frame issue go to a hardware store. Buy 2 lengths of 3/8” aircraft cable and cable clamps. Loop one end around your axle and the other to your safety chains under the trailer loosely on each side. Zip tie them up out of the way. If the frame fails again at least the trailer will safely stay with you.
Good non-intrusive solution, Thanks. SP
I drilled out and replaced the rivets in my fiberglass trailer. The replacements I purchased have solid heads. I put a dab of Micor gutter sealant in the holes before inserting and “popping” them.
Another place I’ve had leaks was around the windows. I found that it is important to keep the drains in the rubber seals cleaned out.
I have a vintage fiberglass camper (one of the original Trilliums from the 70s) and I follow a lot of groups, forums, etc. related to fiberglass campers. You are certainly not alone in your aluminum frame problem. Lots of folks have shared similar issues in the FB groups - serious problems with the frames and radio silence from the manufacturer after the first few days of reporting the problems. If you visit the “Trillium Trailer Owners” group on Facebook and search “Outback” “aluminum frame” you will see that this is not an uncommon problem.
In fact, I just saw a for sale post in the group when searching and the seller is quick to share that theirs does NOT have the aluminum frame, because of the reputation.
I’ll stick with my nearly 47 year old original Trillium vs these new ones.
Belly bands have had their (fixable) issues for generations, so the Outback folks building them should have known that doing it this way was going to be problematic.
Sorry you’re having these problems, but sadly - not surprised. Your advice to steer clear of them is good advice.
We added a shock suspension system to our 20-foot single axle ,it made a huge difference in the ride .
Also, change your trailer tires for light truck tires , they are also much more flexible.
Your frame issue is common on Boler and Trillium trailers too. Failure is always at the weld at the drop frame point. Good point .. inspecting your trailer does not take long, yet could safe major grief or catastrophe.
Didn't know Boler had this issue; this is the other one you mentioned 😱
Slim watching you remove the sealant off your vent. I watched your vent move.
Time to build a garage to store it during the winter .
Slim hi I'm Brian and I'm a retired diesel mechanic and I wanted to tell you when you was getting the aluminum trailer that as much off roading you do i would have kept the steel frame.and. I kinda worried about that happening and unfortunately it did but it could have been much worse. But we used to have aluminum trailers and we would find cracks on them all the time and usually when that happened we would scrap the trailer if it was on the main frame. . Just keep a close eye on it because aluminum is prone for cracking and as much off roading u do it's likely to happen again just keep an eye on it I been watching your channel for about 3 years. I'm just very thankful that you found it when you did. I think u have a guardian angel watching over u. Thanks be to God. Enjoy your channel and keep up the good work. I'm retired and now days I live in my Dodge caravan in Las Cruces NM. And as soon as I get my disability check approved I hope to be out on the road and hopefully we can meet one day have a great day. I'm from new Orleans. Moved here 3 years ago and I was heading to Arizona but ended up having a couple problems and decided to stay here.
It will be fine, but I don't recommend jumping the Grand Canyon with it.
Darn. An enactment of the Evil Knievel stunt was to be my next video. SP
@@SlimPotatohead Or Thelma and Louise! LOL
Sorry for your repair issues. The selling point of fiberglass trailers is no leaks!
I see an awful lot of videos about trailer campers of all kinds with broken frames. Apparently this industry doesn't have very good controls..
No generalizations please. This is a specific manufacturer, not all. SP
Sorry about your misfortunes, Slim. The engineers stamp was a smart move on many levels. Glad you found the leak (hope it's the only one).
I will say this - you've made it easier to hunt for a small trailer because I've eliminated THAT manufacturer off the list.
Cheers from the other coast. (Yes I know there are three) 🤟
When your warranty runs out like his did you are own your own got to remember were you bought it is were have have to return it for repairs they are all the same if they dont have faciltys around the country then you may get a break, if not must take it back were you bought it!
Be wary of that brand of trailer frame ... other trailers may use it too.
I've worked amongst qualified trades...THAT would have never left the yard.@@ScubaSteveCanada
I like what you did there, Slim. The updated name suits you. :-)
Brilliant way to find the leak. We saw it drip right down that rivet hole.
I disagree with so many of your commenters. I think you’ve had this trailer for a while and it’s been good to you. Things will break and deteriorate, the environment is hard on manufactured goods and they require maintenance and some restoration over the course of its life. Wise move on the engineers opinion. Provides a level of comfort.
I liked your Subtle Slam of the manufacturer 😊
Hit the road, Jack! 👍😎🇨🇦
Just FYI the lap sealant is really only a secondary barrier and it's designed primarily to redirect water. The primary seal is between the thing and the roof. If it's leaking that seal has failed and that is the seal it actually needs to be repaired. This requires removing the vent and replacing sealant between the vent and the roof. You may also find when you remove the vent that is cracked or damaged in some other way. If that's the case then you want to replace the vent.
Keep watching the video. The cause will be revealed later on. SP
@@SlimPotatohead Yeah I saw the whole thing I was just saying that if you suspect something is leaking simply removing the lap sealant and replacing it isn't the right way to fix it.
My goodness, I don't remember your Aliner ever giving you this much headache. sorry for all this, but as always, your upbeat positivity is second to none. You really uplift all who encounter your videos.
Memory fails as you get older. Did you miss the 100 mods I did, or that the Aliner frame finally failed? I remember it well! SP
This has been an interesting set of videos. Thanks to you, Slim
I have a 2004, almost identical to yours and I am in Calgary. I reached to the manufacturer via email and phone the past three summers looking to buy parts and get a quote for some maintenance / repair work. I have never gotten a response.
I had to get my computer module replaced in my Honda($1800us) and the guy at the dealership didn’t put the air conditioning drain hose into the hole outside the car…at first I thought a water bottle had spilled…then I thought maybe the door is leaking. After a week I pull back the carpet and see that my air conditioning had been pouring water into the floor of my car. It was bad. I ran a power cord to the car and used a box fan in my car every night for a week or so and it dried it out pretty good.
When you featured that mirror I liked it so much I bought one. I broke it within a week.
Yep, its good to keep the nest clean.
One issue I see with the frame is that the problem area is part of a span that runs from the tongue jack to the axle. All the load is carried to the ground at those two ends. You could take a lot of that load off the joint by adding stabillizer jacks at the front corners or by using something like bottle jacks directly under the joint when parked. That would alleviate some of the stress the joint takes, including when you're moving about inside the trailer.
I know right? Why hasn't anyone else mentioned this? not sure if slim has the 13 or 15' trailer but the span between tongue wheel and axle is looking to be about 10' yet the manufacturer is only using a 2 x 3 ALUMINUM box beam to support part of the trailer weight AND people AND gear AND snow. I'm 250lbs and I'll bet that all I need to do is jump once or twice and that beam will be bent if not cracked as well. I am guessing but the crack is probably dead centre to axle/tongue wheel (or really close). For $30-40 aluminum stabilizer jacks would fix the problem (or at least stop making it worse) when stationary and camping.
I hope you can get it all fixed..🙂
Looking forward to your next video
A welcome calm to my other subscriptions , thank you from bc Canada
Talk about a rabbit hole.
Well narrated Slim. Always like tuning into your videos.
Excellent video...I need your patience my friend...ty
Dr. Slim, as an off road training instructor, let me offer some opinions. Don't want to force my ideas on you, just offer some options…
1. I don’t believe the weight savings of aluminum, nor the corrosion resistance, is worth more than the strength and easy repairability of steel. I know steel rusts, etc. but you can always paint with rust converter, prime with POR15 and a good paint. Aluminum is, in my opinion, too brittle for this application-especially with the stresses of going on those rough roads.
2. When you are ready for another vehicle, I suggest Toyota: a 4Runner, Tacoma, or, best of all, Land Cruiser 60, 80, or 100. You can find used ones for a good price, though not too good on gas. But they are very reliable.
3. First things to do to an off road vehicle are:___A. better tires (your choice of BF Goodrich AT was excellent). Always go with an LT tire. You need the extra protection off road. Other good brands are Falken, Cooper, General… ___B. Suspension upgrade. I think the best for the price is the Old Man EMU from ARB. The nitro charger version is more than excellent for your application.
4. For extra capability off road, at least a rear locker will help in situations like when you were stuck in the mud with the trailer. Without a locker, the tire with traction will not turn, and the one without traction will spin. An ARB Air Locker is an excellent choice.
5. Without the locker, you can sometimes-gently-apply the breaks as you are trying to power out. This sometimes helps the tires get power.
6. Also, rock the steering wheel left to right. This helps the front tires gain some extra traction.
NOTE: As the Brits in Land Rovers say: “As slow as possible, as fast as necessary”.
7. You can also use some kind of snow traction setup, as well as MaxTrax.
8. Having jacks is good: you can, if necessary, jack up the vehicle a bit and stack traction aids: like even rocks, under the tire.
9. Cheap clay Cat litter can often work great to help with traction on snow and ice.
Check out the article about modifying a Casita trailer for off road on Expedition Portal: Just search for : Off-road Heavy Duty Casita Build
I hope this helps you a bit.
Thanks for all the videos, I really enjoy your channel!
Hope to bump into you sometime once I get my HJ45 finished! I am looking into getting a Casita or Scamp, or similar myself!
Regards:
Jose
Another riveting episode 😅
Thanks for this valuable PSA. I like the final clip where you get rid of the old "Out Back". They owe you IMO
Slim, I'm in Calgary and I've had issues this year with the manufacturer as well, and I wasn't even trying to have something fixed. Last I spoke to them I was told Joe is sick and has left the company. They also told me they moved to Carsland. My 2004 Outback has a steel frame and so far no issues, however water was a major problem. I was going to just sell it, but because your videos have been so inspiring I ended up replacing the completely saturated wood, then glassed it all back together. Too much to write in a comment, really looking forward to your belly band fix.
You missed a spot 😂🙂🙃 Like your smile at the end ... saying relieve all over ... enjoy the trip
Great video sir ! I feel you are absolutely right about sealing up the rivets. I have a 6x10 converted cargo trailer and I need to check out the welds. As far as I know there are no problems BUT to check the welds will give me peace of mind and cost me a bit of time verses loosing my rig. Thank you for sharing
OMG! This is so familiar! The tiniest leak will cause a big problem and can be so hard to find!
Nice job on repairs. Much better than you found it. Should serve you well for years now!!
Thank you for sharing your adventures. Campers are like boats. Something is always shaking loose. I’m glad you have resolved your frame failure and hopefully, resolved your leak. We have had a few leaks along our travels, too, but it’s all part of the adventure 😊. Many safe and enjoyable travels ahead.
I've seen several videos on different channels of those frames breaking right in that area. It's a known problem.
You're generalizing. I am referring to a specific frame for a specific camper. SP
@@SlimPotatohead Perhaps...but the ones I'm referring to are all on those small fiberglass Scamp-type trailers...
@randomspirit , that is exactly how facts get distorted. This is NOT a Scamp, and the Scamps have STEEL frames, not aluminum. Please again, do not generalize. Thanks! SP
Thank the maker we europeans have galvanized steel frames for our RV/caravans. Alko frames are German made quality products that last forever. Mine is still going strong after 20 years. The stability friction hitch is another piece of gear you might want to check out.
That would be nice! I’m not aware of US manufacturers that galvanize. I’ve seen videos where some people who we’re restoring trailers had the frames galvanized.
Great video - really appreciate that you showed your step-by-step trouble-shooting! Thanks
Thank you for considering the safety of others…Very informative!
And how many other ppl have had this issue. Surely the DOT would make them change their design.
How you can make finding and fixing leaks on your RV interesting is beyond me. But, it was😁
To answer the question about the frame design change - we had the same thing happen about a month after Slim’s Michigan video was released. In talking with Outback trailers they said their prior welder was not installing a reinforcement plate on the bottom of the frame that was on the blueprint for the aluminum frame. At some point they caught it and changed them going forward and have a different welder with aluminum welding background but it was implied that all early Outback aluminum frames are missing the plate.
Leaks can also come from door seals. Even if you condition the rubber every six months, like instructed, especially in a blowing wind. I would check that, if the flood returns.
I think an orbital hitch would be a great investment for you if you're planning on doing more off-road towing. It can help to prevent bottoming out and improve handling, which can make your camper safer and more enjoyable to tow.
Hi Slim - we really enjoy your videos. Would like to see more on what you are reading, and your philosophy videos, as well as of course your travels! Thanks
See you have one of those Fajita Friday Fume Fighters for a vent.
I’m glad you feel better about the welds and the engineers report .I know how I would feel if it were me . Thx Slim .😊
would Flex seal work??? I am glad you found the Problems with the leaks and also got the frame fixed!!! I Love your Videos --- Margie ----from -----Florida-----
That's crazy about the frame. I remember watching the new frame video years ago and was surprised to see the title of this video. Glad it's all fixed up now.
They say it's not if it's going to leak , it's when! Glad you found it early it could have been worse.
I hope the manufacturer is subscribed to your channel! It would be very wise for them to do so!
Yeah! Slim is about to go camping again!🎉