Shouldnt you use PL to fasten the stringers and something to lift it a little up, so the stringer is not in contact with the floor. won't using peanutbutter be the same as just having the stringers attached to the bottom, because it's so hard?
Weak points are created by air gaps. The trick is to bed the stringers in peanut butter so there is no air between the structure and the hull. Imagine a chunk of shit hitting your hull at the stringer where there is an air gap. Soft spot to stiff spot. There's a hole. Now imagine a hard ridge. No hole. It's simple math.
@@godobbs7383 hi thank you for the video mate, sorry could you please elaborate a bit more of what you mean? I am in new Zealand and have a 4.5m glass over ply but there are no seats! And trying to figure out how I lay up the stringers - hope that makes sense
Yeah, I've read that there needs to be some tiny allowance for stringer flex. Sort of makes sense for a much longer boat where there might be more flex, but we are not building the space shuttle here. My 17 ft Hourston's stringers were just bedded in resin and one layer of glass cloth (not biaxial) was covering only the bottom 1/3 of each. The transom interior only had a sparse mat with a suggestion of gelcoat. Yes the transom and stringers rotted, but the hull skin didn't crack from being bedded in direct contact. The thing lasted 47 years before I re-did it all - the way an anal retentive does....the boat is good for another 50 + years. I'm sure they never intended these boats to last 20 years.
Ply only has half the fibers perpendicular to the force acting on it in a stringer, so it's half as strong as sold wood. Ply is stronger than sold wood in the other axis (like a floor).
Peanut butter is ANY type of resin that has additives put in to thicken it to the constancy of peanut butter, basically so you can form the radius to lay the fiberglass over without having to try to make 90° bends with the glass since most fiberglass will not make that sharp of a bend, esp without getting air bubbles under it..
Great wood work. FYI : it’s perfectly acceptable for the stringer not to be flush with the hull before it’s fiberglassed in.
Thanks for the tip on getting the right save resin. How big of a gap should I be going for then?
We just call thickenned resin peanut butter because its the same consistancy
Cardboard is great for stencling the 45.
Shouldnt you use PL to fasten the stringers and something to lift it a little up, so the stringer is not in contact with the floor. won't using peanutbutter be the same as just having the stringers attached to the bottom, because it's so hard?
I have read in another forum and in my research that the stringer must NOT be in contact with the hull it creates week points.
Weak points are created by air gaps.
The trick is to bed the stringers in peanut butter so there is no air between the structure and the hull.
Imagine a chunk of shit hitting your hull at the stringer where there is an air gap.
Soft spot to stiff spot. There's a hole.
Now imagine a hard ridge.
No hole.
It's simple math.
@@godobbs7383 hi thank you for the video mate, sorry could you please elaborate a bit more of what you mean? I am in new Zealand and have a 4.5m glass over ply but there are no seats! And trying to figure out how I lay up the stringers - hope that makes sense
Yeah, I've read that there needs to be some tiny allowance for stringer flex. Sort of makes sense for a much longer boat where there might be more flex, but we are not building the space shuttle here. My 17 ft Hourston's stringers were just bedded in resin and one layer of glass cloth (not biaxial) was covering only the bottom 1/3 of each. The transom interior only had a sparse mat with a suggestion of gelcoat. Yes the transom and stringers rotted, but the hull skin didn't crack from being bedded in direct contact. The thing lasted 47 years before I re-did it all - the way an anal retentive does....the boat is good for another 50 + years. I'm sure they never intended these boats to last 20 years.
isn't ply wood the wood of choice for stringers?
Not on the northwest coast. Solid Douglas fir. I only use fir.
Ply only has half the fibers perpendicular to the force acting on it in a stringer, so it's half as strong as sold wood. Ply is stronger than sold wood in the other axis (like a floor).
Is peanut butter the real name for the adhesive?
No it’s epoxy resin with silica and string in it
Peanut butter is ANY type of resin that has additives put in to thicken it to the constancy of peanut butter, basically so you can form the radius to lay the fiberglass over without having to try to make 90° bends with the glass since most fiberglass will not make that sharp of a bend, esp without getting air bubbles under it..
All that talking and no work