I hear yeah! I restored this boat 5 years ago and I beat the living crud out of it. No cracks or issues so far. I’ve put a lot of hours on it so far over the past 5 years.
thanks for the vids, I wouldve not filled every crack completely along the stringers and floor because water will get everywhere no matter how well you seal it so its good to have sealed drainage holes every so often to get the water out and for venting
I would PB every bottom joint to keep water from being near the wood. I know it will all be fiberglassed but even a pinhole will allow water to contact the wood if given the chance.
Hi - I've removed the floor of my 1987 CC Scorpion. I've also removed all the rotten ply from the sub - floor; what is left appears in to be solid and in good shape and is still covered in fibreglass. My question is should I remove ALL the old ply and rebuild from scratch? TIA
I think I remember on one of your videos the formula for making he "peanut butter" but can't find it. How do make the "peanut butter" I know it's Cabosil, epoxy, and fiberglass strands, but what's the ratio?
Mark, start off with mixing epoxy and cabosil to get the viscosity right for your application. Sometimes it needs to be thicker and sometimes not. Cabosil is a pain to measure out because it sits on top and you have to mix the heck out of it with the epoxy, so add it in slowly. I also add in fiberglass and mix until you can see glass every 1/2 if you dipped a brush in there and pulled it out. I try to go a little slow with the fiberglass otherwise it gets to be like paper mâché. It still works in that form but it looks odd.
Apply a layer of peel ply over your fillet of “peanut butter”. You would be able to maintain a decent radius but also once it’s cured you can remove the peel ply and have a good textured surface to lay up on which will save on sanding.
wouldn't polyester resin have been a better choice? the styrene in the resin is what breaks down the chemical binders in the fiberglass. maybe im wrong, but while i was watching i kept saying why does the glass still look bone dry and instead of a homogenous mix, it resembles more of a vegetable soup
The bucket shown said US Composites. The bag of rollers said US Composites. He said you can buy these from US Composites. Gee, I don't know, maybe US Composites. Ye literally have the world's largest library at your fingertips and ye ask such a mundane question? Pray your other two wishes are better.
always coat ALL the wood in epoxy before you install it, especially the edges.. And you need to peanut butter or round every corner to round it so the fiberglass bends without air pockets. You should have peanut buttered every place where wood meets.
Michael Romer 87 citation thundercraft. 16.5 foot. It may need replacing where the engine sits on the wood or whatever. I have pics. It’s a 120 hp mercruiser. The seller said it has a new floor, but I don’t know what is under the ‘new floor’
@@michaelromer2016 Great job you have done Michael, Kyle is very helpful in the Carbon v Kevlar v S2 Glass. I spent a small fortune when I could've probably just gone S2 and ended up with the same thing. I use carbon for cosmetic, for the most part anymore. just a suggestion. That said I used carbon to strengthen my transom. Kevlar and carbon are like cheese and chalk. Kevlar is very hygroscopic and should be layered under something else below the waterline. Google; "Exposed Kevlar fibers will absorb water. ... Kevlar is not a very stiff material compared to carbon or glass. The best property it adds to a hull is impact resistance. It does this with a relatively low weight." They'll use a layer in a Forrmula One spoiler and if you've ever seen one hit a wall and shatter the spoiler, the kevlar is there to hold the pieces together. Rules required this bc the carbon shattered into splinters on impact. Hope it helps. ruclips.net/video/KHXVf0SaJpA/видео.html
That mixture looks like you are way short on filler. If you have to much resin or epoxy and not enough filler all that will just crack. You should have done your next layer of cloth when this was still in the re-coat time. Now you need to sand all that before you can do the next layer. Your supposed to lay the whole stringer structure down in a bed thickened epoxy not pack it in after. Like the effort but this isn’t done correctly.
uhmm looking for post on thickening epoxying resin algorithm sent this post. I cannot agree with what you are doing. 1. would never restore old fiberglass over wood boats with more wood; I replace wood with composite materials as using wood insures your time, money and labor will have to be repeated whenever new wood rots; 2. if you insist on using wood in your project boat best practice is to treat wood, old or new, with a penetrating epoxy resin, either the type Jamestown Distributors sells or make your own. 3. Use non-blush (no wax) laminating epoxy when restoring a old Fiberglas over wood boat. 4. Never put raw wood in a boat as as soon as you penetrate it with hardware or fasteners you now have a place where water will enter the wood fibers and rot starts again. My two cents, from years experience rescuing and restoring old fiberglass over wood boats. (pre 1994 or 1995 when most all major boat makers, but for Sanger Boats, used only composite materials in building boats.
Why on earth would you use wood apposed any of the different kind of composite material that are available today , you'll never rebuild it again!! Your wood is guaranteed to rot ????
Exactly correct. Pure resin has a woeful different modulus of elasticity than the wood. Therefore, over time it will delam and flake. Hence the need for cloth.
Polyester is not water proof, you can use the best mat but your at fault with polyester it’s old technology and outdated rubbish when it comes to structural
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I hear yeah! I restored this boat 5 years ago and I beat the living crud out of it. No cracks or issues so far. I’ve put a lot of hours on it so far over the past 5 years.
thanks for the vids, I wouldve not filled every crack completely along the stringers and floor because water will get everywhere no matter how well you seal it so its good to have sealed drainage holes every so often to get the water out and for venting
I really want to do this to a 25-28ft trailer-able hull and make a completely different interior design.
It’ll be a lot of work!
I would PB every bottom joint to keep water from being near the wood. I know it will all be fiberglassed but even a pinhole will allow water to contact the wood if given the chance.
Hi - I've removed the floor of my 1987 CC Scorpion. I've also removed all the rotten ply from the sub - floor; what is left appears in to be solid and in good shape and is still covered in fibreglass. My question is should I remove ALL the old ply and rebuild from scratch? TIA
With the amount of work that is needed, remove everything to confirm the underlying wood is in fact good!
How did you cut out the hole for the transom because I have a 12JE jet pump and I need to do the exact same thing. Thank you!
Isn't there some concerns of dissimilar materials in Kevlar on fiberglass regarding to the stiffness and tinsel strength differences?
With all stringers and compartments sealed with pb and kevlar how is water going to drain in bilge area?
Hey Tom, keep watching the rest of the videos. I detail all of these questions. I’ve been using this boat for years after the rebuild is complete.
I think I remember on one of your videos the formula for making he "peanut butter" but can't find it. How do make the "peanut butter" I know it's Cabosil, epoxy, and fiberglass strands, but what's the ratio?
Mark, start off with mixing epoxy and cabosil to get the viscosity right for your application. Sometimes it needs to be thicker and sometimes not. Cabosil is a pain to measure out because it sits on top and you have to mix the heck out of it with the epoxy, so add it in slowly. I also add in fiberglass and mix until you can see glass every 1/2 if you dipped a brush in there and pulled it out. I try to go a little slow with the fiberglass otherwise it gets to be like paper mâché. It still works in that form but it looks odd.
@@michaelromer2016 Thank you! I'm not a RUclipsr (I just don't have the patience to film and edit) so I thank you for your willingness to share.
How does kevlar compare to fiberglass in regards to comprehensive and tensile strength? And shore D hardness?
Apply a layer of peel ply over your fillet of “peanut butter”. You would be able to maintain a decent radius but also once it’s cured you can remove the peel ply and have a good textured surface to lay up on which will save on sanding.
I like that idea! Thanks for your comments. Next time, I'm going that route!
Hi,where I can get that red wood,thank for this video
Hi nice program,How can i fine that 5 galon buck,cobosil.thank for you help.
Did epoxy floors for years it kicks off fast
Thanks for your comments! Epoxy has proven great as that boat in that video is still being used every year!
Did you soak your stringers in epoxy? I'm assuming the wood will absorb the resin from your glasswork if not soaked?
You should, but it wont kill you if you dont. It may just be more suceptable to delamination years down the line.
wouldn't polyester resin have been a better choice? the styrene in the resin is what breaks down the chemical binders in the fiberglass. maybe im wrong, but while i was watching i kept saying why does the glass still look bone dry and instead of a homogenous mix, it resembles more of a vegetable soup
What do u use as peanut butter compound and where do u order ur boards from
Where do you buy your kevlar material?
The bucket shown said US Composites. The bag of rollers said US Composites. He said you can buy these from US Composites.
Gee, I don't know, maybe US Composites.
Ye literally have the world's largest library at your fingertips and ye ask such a mundane question?
Pray your other two wishes are better.
I need to take out my volvo penta 3.0 and rebuild engine stand and cut out rotted section of the stringers n put new ones in.
always coat ALL the wood in epoxy before you install it, especially the edges.. And you need to peanut butter or round every corner to round it so the fiberglass bends without air pockets. You should have peanut buttered every place where wood meets.
You want to fix my boat engine mounts and stringers?
Lee Sires I’m planning another rebuild series where I use carbon fiber vs Kevlar.
Lee Sires what kind of boat do you have?
Michael Romer 87 citation thundercraft. 16.5 foot. It may need replacing where the engine sits on the wood or whatever. I have pics. It’s a 120 hp mercruiser. The seller said it has a new floor, but I don’t know what is under the ‘new floor’
@@michaelromer2016 Great job you have done Michael, Kyle is very helpful in the Carbon v Kevlar v S2 Glass. I spent a small fortune when I could've probably just gone S2 and ended up with the same thing. I use carbon for cosmetic, for the most part anymore. just a suggestion. That said I used carbon to strengthen my transom.
Kevlar and carbon are like cheese and chalk. Kevlar is very hygroscopic and should be layered under something else below the waterline.
Google; "Exposed Kevlar fibers will absorb water. ... Kevlar is not a very stiff material compared to carbon or glass. The best property it adds to a hull is impact resistance. It does this with a relatively low weight."
They'll use a layer in a Forrmula One spoiler and if you've ever seen one hit a wall and shatter the spoiler, the kevlar is there to hold the pieces together. Rules required this bc the carbon shattered into splinters on impact.
Hope it helps.
ruclips.net/video/KHXVf0SaJpA/видео.html
That mixture looks like you are way short on filler. If you have to much resin or epoxy and not enough filler all that will just crack. You should have done your next layer of cloth when this was still in the re-coat time. Now you need to sand all that before you can do the next layer. Your supposed to lay the whole stringer structure down in a bed thickened epoxy not pack it in after. Like the effort but this isn’t done correctly.
I appreciate your comment, however, this boat has over 1000 hours on it and has been holding up great.
uhmm looking for post on thickening epoxying resin algorithm sent this post. I cannot agree with what you are doing. 1. would never restore old fiberglass over wood boats with more wood; I replace wood with composite materials as using wood insures your time, money and labor will have to be repeated whenever new wood rots;
2. if you insist on using wood in your project boat best practice is to treat wood, old or new, with a penetrating epoxy resin, either the type Jamestown Distributors sells or make your own. 3. Use non-blush (no wax) laminating epoxy when restoring a old Fiberglas over wood boat. 4. Never put raw wood in a boat as as soon as you penetrate it with hardware or fasteners you now have a place where water will enter the wood fibers and rot starts again. My two cents, from years experience rescuing and restoring old fiberglass over wood boats. (pre 1994 or 1995 when most all major boat makers, but for Sanger Boats, used only composite materials in building boats.
Why on earth would you use wood apposed any of the different kind of composite material that are available today , you'll never rebuild it again!!
Your wood is guaranteed to rot ????
Marine grade plywood is readily available in my area and is easier to obtain than composite material.
U should glass all wood, a coat of resin is not satisfactory
Exactly correct. Pure resin has a woeful different modulus of elasticity than the wood. Therefore, over time it will delam and flake. Hence the need for cloth.
Polyester is not water proof, you can use the best mat but your at fault with polyester it’s old technology and outdated rubbish when it comes to structural
Quick update on this project as I have it in the backyard. It’s running great still. Keep checking in and I’ll let you know if it ever fails.