Great idea! I have been trying to follow tutorials and most want to do a full plunge on the male portion which my machine can’t do. Have tried doing it in steps but not working as planned. Your method takes all the trial and error out!!! Good job!!!!’
Video was very helpful. Thank you for that. I'm also using a small CNC and the start depth for the male cut stressed my little CNC a lot. The new method makes a lot of sense. I would have one question. I was reading also the guide from Zank & Durriant. The are also using the 3-2-1 method but male start depth and male flat depth are just the other way around. I.e. female flat depth is 0.3, male start depth is 0.1 (instead of 0.2) and male flat depth is 0.2 (instead of 0.1.). I was thinking that a male flat depth of 0.2. might lead to a tighter fit of the inlay. Any comments on that?
Good stuff! As a quick tip in a pickle when concerned about depth at the machining stage, unless I'm tight for time for any reason I just raise my Z a pass depth temporarily and run the toolpath file twice
9:20 the shaded "tab" on the right: If you define your material to be ever so slightly wider on X, the endmill could mill there and the tab will disappear
Thanks for this . I struggle in how to locate a suitable file to import and actually import the file. My experience has been if I find a file not sure what formate it should be and the site will take me to another one and wanting membership. I don’t mind paying as long as it will work in VCarve. Thanks
Your process is working great for me up to a point. While the pocket path does clear out well, when I run the v-bit it still wants to run to depth in one pass, taking too big of a bite and causing tearout. Is there any way to make the v-bit carve in steps? Thanks.
I would like to add inlay on my end grain cutting board. Will this technique and dimensions work? I am concerned about a void underneath and having it break and pop out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Doug
I'm a bit confused: in the male design ,why create a clearing tool path with the 90 degree bit, when the 1/4" bit is used to clear away the material surrounding the male part?
When we do the first clearing we do that so it doesn't plunge all the way down in one pass. In the male Vcarve the clearing path is ignored as it was already done.
I used a 60-degree vbit with a flat depth of 1.5 on the female cut and on the male I did a start depth of .1 and a flat depth of .05 I used a 1/4 inch clearing bit and a 60 degree vbit for the male cut.
I did this exact same cut with your 321 method, IDC method of .11/.09/.02 etc but the male part always looses definition on the tail feathers (lower). I have used my 90 and 60 vbits and all leave the image too thin to hold up. Cannit be a feed issue? I am using walnut and maple so its not loose grain. Final note is that my image is only 2 inches so wondering if its just too small and I need to go to 15° or smaller bits. Your thoughts?
I know this video is 5 months old but if you get tis message, I'd love to know what bit you used, the 90*v bit. I also have a spindle with a 1/2" collet
great follow up video!! One question ... do you need a 90* or would a 60* work? Just curious cause I dont have a 90* yet, as most things I cut out like photocarves are 60* Thanks!
Thanks for this great video. This may be a dumb question but for the male part when you changed bits from the end mill to the v bit I assume you have to reset your Z axis zero to the original zero point and not use the new pocket surface as the Z axis zero point. Thanks again!!
Nice video! Curious... couldn't you just stick to the original way and set the depth of cut on the clearing tool path to .1? This would force the bit to run 3 passes. ..
Howard. Great video. Found it tonight. Do you do projects for hire? I have something I want to make and would like to hire a pro for the extensive inlay work. It is a boat table 24” x 60” with an inlaid chess/checkers, backgammon and cribbage board. Interested?
I appreciate your knowledge however as an inexperienced cnc user you should remove the first video my bit snapped and my small cnc almost fell off the table because the bit went in too deep.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Cheat Sheet For Inlays sdppminc-my.sharepoint.com/:b:/g/personal/howard_sdppm_com/EdNcv2wns6JMo57ToZUVyIUB4LHwQ_IAGmkd646PkCKihA?e=3lEY5b
Really great video. One of the few Vectric CNC tutorials that is easy to follow and very well done. Appreciate the time you obviously spent doing it 🙂
Thank you much appreciated
Great video! Thanks for the in depth explanation. Can't wait for my machine to arrive so I can try this out.
Great idea! I have been trying to follow tutorials and most want to do a full plunge on the male portion which my machine can’t do. Have tried doing it in steps but not working as planned. Your method takes all the trial and error out!!! Good job!!!!’
Thank you
Video was very helpful. Thank you for that. I'm also using a small CNC and the start depth for the male cut stressed my little CNC a lot. The new method makes a lot of sense. I would have one question. I was reading also the guide from Zank & Durriant. The are also using the 3-2-1 method but male start depth and male flat depth are just the other way around. I.e. female flat depth is 0.3, male start depth is 0.1 (instead of 0.2) and male flat depth is 0.2 (instead of 0.1.). I was thinking that a male flat depth of 0.2. might lead to a tighter fit of the inlay. Any comments on that?
I have cut some inlays in half and the glue joints are tight.
@@thewoodmaster Thanks for the feedback. I will try your method over the weekend.
Good stuff! As a quick tip in a pickle when concerned about depth at the machining stage, unless I'm tight for time for any reason I just raise my Z a pass depth temporarily and run the toolpath file twice
Is the pocket used instead of the vcarve clearance path or do you still need the vcarve clearance path after the pocket is finished?
Great video. Thank you for the update!
Thank You! Well done - thanx for being basic and simple about your explanations. (Subscribed to "ALL")
Great info. If you are using a pocket tool path to remove the bulk of material. Why is a clear toolpath still active
9:20 the shaded "tab" on the right: If you define your material to be ever so slightly wider on X, the endmill could mill there and the tab will disappear
Why the intricate model male & female, when the finish will be flat? And the finish is fine.
I am not sure what your asking. The inlays are to showcase two contrasting woods with the artwork.
Thanks, great information! But why do I need to see you in the corner of the screen,??
Just lucky I guess
One basic question: What tool for which company are you using? What software are you using?
Avid Desktop Pro and Vectric Aspire or Vcarve Pro
Which 90 degree v-bit are you using? Can you provide the size and manufacturer?
Nice work. What software are you using to get the picture in a picture for your feed?
Obs studio, it's free
Thanks for this . I struggle in how to locate a suitable file to import and actually import the file. My experience has been if I find a file not sure what formate it should be and the site will take me to another one and wanting membership. I don’t mind paying as long as it will work in VCarve. Thanks
Your process is working great for me up to a point. While the pocket path does clear out well, when I run the v-bit it still wants to run to depth in one pass, taking too big of a bite and causing tearout. Is there any way to make the v-bit carve in steps? Thanks.
Edit the tool pass depth.
I would like to add inlay on my end grain cutting board. Will this technique and dimensions work? I am concerned about a void underneath and having it break and pop out.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Doug
I have cut several of my demo inlays in half and there is no gap. The glue fills any gap that was there.
Great video! Super helpful! Thanks! Could you possibly provide a link to the wire brush you're using. The one I have is too coarse I think.
Here is the link for the brush www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P1TGXB6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm a bit confused: in the male design ,why create a clearing tool path with the 90 degree bit, when the 1/4" bit is used to clear away the material surrounding the male part?
I have the same question. It seems like it just repeats what was done w/ the pocket.
Yea. Makes no sense.
When we do the first clearing we do that so it doesn't plunge all the way down in one pass. In the male Vcarve the clearing path is ignored as it was already done.
Do you know of any species of wood similar in color to blue?
No I don't, sorry
Awesome art work ; ) I just subbed : )
What about small text? Can you inlay text that is .2" tall?
Here is a link to a small Signature inlay quickshare.samsungcloud.com/qq3aEyJnwuqh
Can you share the bit you used and the depths for male and female for signature?@@thewoodmaster
I used a 60-degree vbit with a flat depth of 1.5 on the female cut and on the male I did a start depth of .1 and a flat depth of .05 I used a 1/4 inch clearing bit and a 60 degree vbit for the male cut.
@@thewoodmasterI have yet to actually do an inlay project yet, but a flat depth of 1.5 seems a bit excessive.
@@timadams7274 That would be. I just looked at the video again and don't see where you are getting that amount.
I did this exact same cut with your 321 method, IDC method of .11/.09/.02 etc but the male part always looses definition on the tail feathers (lower). I have used my 90 and 60 vbits and all leave the image too thin to hold up. Cannit be a feed issue? I am using walnut and maple so its not loose grain.
Final note is that my image is only 2 inches so wondering if its just too small and I need to go to 15° or smaller bits.
Your thoughts?
15 degree bit will get you a deeper cut and would be worth a try.
I know this video is 5 months old but if you get tis message, I'd love to know what bit you used, the 90*v bit. I also have a spindle with a 1/2" collet
I was using a 90 Degree v-bit 1/2 inch shank. 1.5 inch wide. not sure of the brand
great follow up video!! One question ... do you need a 90* or would a 60* work? Just curious cause I dont have a 90* yet, as most things I cut out like photocarves are 60*
Thanks!
Yes it will work 60.
Thanks for this great video. This may be a dumb question but for the male part when you changed bits from the end mill to the v bit I assume you have to reset your Z axis zero to the original zero point and not use the new pocket surface as the Z axis zero point. Thanks again!!
You are correct
Nice video! Curious... couldn't you just stick to the original way and set the depth of cut on the clearing tool path to .1? This would force the bit to run 3 passes. ..
Thinking further I guess this doesn't solve the start depth of point 2
That was the problem.
Howard. Great video. Found it tonight. Do you do projects for hire? I have something I want to make and would like to hire a pro for the extensive inlay work. It is a boat table 24” x 60” with an inlaid chess/checkers, backgammon and cribbage board. Interested?
That would be fun to do, but I don't have the time. Sorry.
22:36 Oops, round squiggles. you pressed too hard with the random orbit sander
Very good always learn something
Thank you
I appreciate your knowledge however as an inexperienced cnc user you should remove the first video my bit snapped and my small cnc almost fell off the table because the bit went in too deep.