Great video, thanks for posting. I am confused about the three tool paths cutting the male piece. Did you pick the three paths, or did Vectric assign the three tool paths?
Love it - as I jump into my second year of CNCing, I think you're giving me the encouragement to go for it as it isn't the most complicated thing to do! Looks great!
Thank you, Michael! I really appreciate you saying that! I believe Success is taught by failure. I Embrace it but I will never accept it! Happy carving my friend!
HELP! Lol. Followed perfectly until 12:05. My screen says “Machine”, then says “Select a Post Processor”. Shapeoko 3xxl. I’m clueless right now haha. Please help me past this. This video is amazing and I’m so stoked to attempt my first inlay! Thanks!!! :)
Great video Bucky! I have a couple of questions for you. 1. Did you make any adjustments to feed rate, depth of cut or router speed due to using a harder wood and it being "end grain"? 2. Did you make and pocket allowance adjustments or "offset" adjustments? Thanks for sharing and I look forward to your feed back.
Hey Willie! Thanks for watching! I was very conservative on speeds and feeds. This was my first attempt, so I had no idea what to expect. Pocket at zero start and .2 flat. Plugs at .18 start and .02 flat.
Excellent video. I do have one question as this old brain cant seem to figure it out. My band saw is too small to cut away the excess so I would rather use the CNC. I have been using my drum sander. How do you set up Vectric to clear the waste after the glue up and how do you zero the bit?
In Vectric Draw a Square or Rectangle a little larger than the inlay, setup a pocket tool path using your choice of Datum and how much to remove. Then Z on the top of the male inlay. If you use gSender I would use the surfacing tool. Thank you so much for watching!
@@handcraftedworkshop It is a breeze to set up. Plug and play just like a mouse or keyboard. If you use gSender then you can set certain keys to perform just like a controller or joy stick. I will do a video on it as soon as I can.
Hi, I am just a little unclear on a few things. 1 Are you not supposed to leave a glue gap in the bottom depth of the cut? 2 isnt plunging .180 a bit harsh on that first cut?
Thank you for your comments! This was my first one based on watching a bunch of others. I never leave a glue gap when edge gluing two boards together, so my belief is I shouldn't in this case either. Even clamping pressure is what I relied on. Plunging the full depth does seem a bit much, but I slowed speeds to what I felt the bit could handle without sacrificing the quality of the carve.
@@BuckysCustoms I know they call it glue gap but I think it is there so it does not bottom out. This would insure that it sits on the taper and should lock in.
Thank you for educating us all and showing how to recover from an error.
Thank you!
Great video, thanks for posting. I am confused about the three tool paths cutting the male piece. Did you pick the three paths, or did Vectric assign the three tool paths?
Vectric of assigns a toolpath for each tool selected.
Love it - as I jump into my second year of CNCing, I think you're giving me the encouragement to go for it as it isn't the most complicated thing to do!
Looks great!
Thank you, Michael! I really appreciate you saying that! I believe Success is taught by failure. I Embrace it but I will never accept it! Happy carving my friend!
Nice setup. It's great to watch. I'm learning too.
Thank you! And, welcome to the cnc world! It has been a blast for me!
HELP! Lol. Followed perfectly until 12:05.
My screen says “Machine”, then says “Select a Post Processor”.
Shapeoko 3xxl. I’m clueless right now haha. Please help me past this. This video is amazing and I’m so stoked to attempt my first inlay!
Thanks!!!
:)
Are you using a Longmill?
@@BuckysCustoms no. Shapeoko 3 xxl
NO!! IMA STAY for all the videos in this series
great job sir!
Thank you Bro Mon!
@@BuckysCustoms ya Mon
Great save
perfect I was able to learn something
Great job!
Thanks!
Awesome job! Thanks for the info! Great recovery on the mistake.
Thank you!
Finally!!! lol Thank you for sharing!
I know, right!!
Great video Bucky! I have a couple of questions for you. 1. Did you make any adjustments to feed rate, depth of cut or router speed due to using a harder wood and it being "end grain"? 2. Did you make and pocket allowance adjustments or "offset" adjustments? Thanks for sharing and I look forward to your feed back.
Hey Willie! Thanks for watching! I was very conservative on speeds and feeds. This was my first attempt, so I had no idea what to expect. Pocket at zero start and .2 flat. Plugs at .18 start and .02 flat.
Awesome video, how did you anodize your Longmill? Very Interested in the different look for my Longmill. Thanks
Excellent video. I do have one question as this old brain cant seem to figure it out. My band saw is too small to cut away the excess so I would rather use the CNC. I have been using my drum sander. How do you set up Vectric to clear the waste after the glue up and how do you zero the bit?
In Vectric Draw a Square or Rectangle a little larger than the inlay, setup a pocket tool path using your choice of Datum and how much to remove. Then Z on the top of the male inlay. If you use gSender I would use the surfacing tool. Thank you so much for watching!
We all make mistakes. A craftsman knows how to recover. Question... how did you apply two different clearance tools?
Thank you! Vcarve pro automatically generates toolpaths for whatever clearance tools are selected.
A question that is off topic. How do you use the little keyboard with the LongMill?
I use it as if it were a mouse and a Joy stick. Pretty handy!
@@BuckysCustoms Thank you sir for replying. Is it wireless and is it difficult to set up? Do you have a video on it?
@@handcraftedworkshop It is a breeze to set up. Plug and play just like a mouse or keyboard. If you use gSender then you can set certain keys to perform just like a controller or joy stick. I will do a video on it as soon as
I can.
@@BuckysCustoms I use Carbide Create. I’ve never used gSender. I’m looking forward to the video.
Hi, I am just a little unclear on a few things. 1 Are you not supposed to leave a glue gap in the bottom depth of the cut? 2 isnt plunging .180 a bit harsh on that first cut?
Thank you for your comments! This was my first one based on watching a bunch of others. I never leave a glue gap when edge gluing two boards together, so my belief is I shouldn't in this case either. Even clamping pressure is what I relied on. Plunging the full depth does seem a bit much, but I slowed speeds to what I felt the bit could handle without sacrificing the quality of the carve.
@@BuckysCustoms I know they call it glue gap but I think it is there so it does not bottom out. This would insure that it sits on the taper and should lock in.
Thanks for sharing
good job
Thank You!
Is the free projects file still available? I click on the link but I get an error 404, link not available.
Yeah I got the same error! I will look into it. Thank you for letting me know!
I tried a bit ago and it worked fine. Thanks, Bucky!
What brand of router did you have mounted in your machine? thanks.
Avid
Hard to tell from video if the male inlay was also end grain. Should not mix end grain and flat grain on an end grain cutting board.
Agree 100%. All end grain! Thank you for sharing an important detail I left out!