VCarve 12 Pro inlay with tapered ball nose bits
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- Опубликовано: 28 ноя 2024
- Vectric Version 12 introduced a new inlay tool path that generates the plug also, but has issues when using a tapered ball nose bit to get more detail. I found settings that work for me, hopefully they will for you also.
Part 2 follow-up video...
• VCarve 12 Pro inlay wi...
www.loneoakwoodworks.net
loneoakww
The bit I'm using currently...
www.amazon.com...
Part 2 video link here... ruclips.net/video/aeRZ9b6KuZw/видео.html
I 3d printed a shim to go under the touch plate for when I zero out my clearance tools to make up for the difference in the tip of the ballnose bit. That way they all end up cutting at the same depth. I just have to be sure to add that difference to my overall cut depth to get the the desired cut depth.
I knew it!!! thanks for confirming.
Great video, thanks a lot. I am in the middle of this issue. I did a test yesterday where i changed the z zero by 0.5mm. My z zero is 14.3mm but changed to 13.8. I am going to check today how the fit is. I will let you know. I did vcarve inlay for the pocket and pocket toolpath for the plug
Hello.
Is there a relation between the glue gap / surface gap to the depth of the pocket? what if we wanted a deeper inlay, saaaay 3/8" or even 1/2". what would the new glue gap and surface gap amounts be?
Cheers
I might have missed this in your video: Do you adjust the vectors so no radius is less than the radius of the TBN at the depth of cut?
Thank you so much for the video! I'm so frustrated trying to figure out tight fitting inalys and this was helpful to see. Question: You say you settled on 120 glue gap and 200 surface gap. Is that mm or inches? Is there a decimal in there? .12 glue gap and .20 surface gap?
Correct, .120 glue and .200 surface are working pretty much perfectly for me. That's with one particular bit, though, using one with different specs would change those numbers I'm sure.
Good day to you! I noticed a few anomalies in your video, and wanted to verify some things. At
0:42 shows 10.5 degree v-bit. 0.02 inch diameter, as you explained what the software thinks is there, versus what the your experience (and others as well) is.
But, at 3:08 shows 12.4 degree v-bit, 0.03125 inch diameter, I am under the impression you used to actually cut the pocket and plug, with the Vectric suggested glue gap (which is rather large compared to what I do in my inlays, but I digress...).
I want to be certain, you did cut the inlay, with the bit that you link in your video description, correct? I use, and highly recommend that bit, and I have never once experienced the ridge at the bottom of the plug that you are getting, using the V12 V-Carve Inlay Toolpath. I am trying to figure out where the difference is, besides imperial vs metric tool path, and obviously the glue gap/surface gap.
I will say you inspired me to work with that a little bit, and see if I can address some of the issues that yourself and others have experienced. I wanted to say thanks for putting this video out to tackle this issue for yourself, and help the community.
I also noted, it appears that there is a noticeable gap at the top of your mountain inlay at 6:00 in the video. I see a dark line, that looks to be dried glue. My eyes may be deceiving me though, because it also looks like it could be that the inlay has not yet been sanded, and is standing a little bit proud of the board.
I'm giving you a like and subscribe, as I found this video to be helpful! Thanks again, and let's see if we can get our inlays even better!
Thanks for watching and replying, and for the great videos you put out yourself (others reading this go check his channel..). At 3:08 when I went back to cover something I had missed I just clicked on that 12.4 degree bit as an example of it doesn't matter if it says 'tapered ball nose' that's just what I named it, the program isn't recognizing it as a tapered ball nose with the new VCarve Inlay toolpath. At 6:00 good question and eye, but that's a .020 walnut perimeter that I left to define the hard maple snow against the hickory board as I felt the woods were too close in color to stand out like I wanted. If you go back to around 5:50 you can see it left in there all around, and in person I think it made for a really nice detail. At 5:50 you can also see I was a little excessive on the glue gap at the bottom, but me being new to inlay and this being a huge plug I just didn't get enough clamping force on it (I have a habit of using squeeze clamps too often, should have used mechanical clamps). The edges are tight, but better clamping would have seated it a bit further. I also had issues with not enough glue, I was afraid of too much as it can't squeeze out with a piece that large so when I machined the snow out I had some areas that came loose and had to be fixed later. If you want to test that eagle eye compare 5:50 to around 5:56 showing the full board and find the three affected areas.... ;) Along with the clamping I only put glue in the inlay, should have added some to the plug also so it would pre-soak in and gravity down to make the connection in case of imperfect clamping. For repeats I also added some small voids in the walnut where the snow is going to go later to give glue somewhere to squeeze into. After this board I machined a couple partial samples of new patterns and with proper clamping they seated fully, so I feel confident in the settings I'm using. I've been scouring FB Marketplace for a couple of weeks hoping to score a used shop press, or hoping for a HF coupon to buy a new one but no luck so far, will probably just go buy a new one as I have another design I'm starting with a much bigger initial inlay that I'm worried about properly clamping...
Can u show what settings you have on the modified tapered ball nose bit? Is it just making it an engraving bit and transposing the bit dimensions?
@loneoakwoodworks
Thank you for your video. You have my 👍🏼 and subscribe. I have been trying for 6 months to use the preferred bit. The Amana 46280 to only have failure after failure. I find that I am always going back to a 30° v-bit and only going .1250” deep in the pocket.
I was given a DIY OpenBuilds lead 1010 system. I did purchase Vcarve 12 Pro.
Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to do some detailed art and would love to use the Bits I have in house.
The bit you mention is a little more angle (12.4 vs 10.5 and a little wider tip (.031 vs .020), so without modeling it should be close in function to what I'm using. Have you run a test with the same or nearly the same settings as I'm using? (.120 surface, .200 glue, .25 depth)
@@LoneOakWoodworks thank you for replying. I just came across your video and I thought it was very well done. I have not yet tried your numbers, but I will try them on Tuesday. I will let you know and I want to thank you again for the help.
@@k9rdog You may be already planning this, but if not I would set up a test piece with several different numbers for the plug similar to what I showed in the video. The inlay portion should be the same even when you change the numbers for glue and surface gaps, it's still going to cut to the prescribed depth. You can just machine multiple plugs and try them in the same inlay.
I too have had issues with the tbn configured as a vbit in Version 12. I found your vide to be informative and have a better understanding of what is happening.
So,... is the simple solution to use a 30° Vbit and a small clearance endmill?
I am not sure why we use a tbn in the first place. Perhaps you could explain that for me, seriously, I don't know why.
There are a lot of instances where a 30 degree bit will work just fine, but when you get into intricate detail is where the smaller angle of the TBN works a lot better. That's why they are used, you just can't get that kind of side angle in a bit that comes to a point, it would just snap off. In the video I showed in VCarve what happens on small detail with the 30 degree bit, you end up with very little inlay material left. I've been cutting a lot of inlays with the settings and bit that I used in the video with pretty much perfect fit, if you have a slightly different bit (say 12 degree instead of 10.5) it may take a little experimenting to nail it down.
@@LoneOakWoodworks Thank you. I believe my tbn is a 12.5° 6mm vs 30 or 60° 1/4" vbit.
Ill try some of your settings and seee how they look alos.
If you have a vbit or tbn that you favor, it would be nice to know.
Thanks
Doug
@@Dta1996 There's a link in the video description for the bit I'm using. 👍
@@Dta1996 There is a link in the video description for the bit I'm using.
@@Dta1996 I see I missed your question, sorry about that. I'm using this one with no issues www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBR9P34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
what passdepth are you using on the the SpeTool tbn
1/4", my full inlay depth. I don't believe in multiple passes with a tbn, the tip of the bit barely has any flutes on it so why use only that part? 👍
so we bought an upgrade thats not realy an upgrade.. are they planning to fix this issue?
No idea, but if they get enough feedback maybe... All they would need to do is add a pop-up warning that if using a tapered ball nose all vectors should have a minimum corner radius greater than the tip radius...
@@LoneOakWoodworks thanks for the info. I've not used the new inlay feature yet but planning to
Thanks for this video, I am just starting my first end grain board using a tbn bit. I will certainly be giving these settings a try.
@@gregsullivan1445 Just to make sure it was clear, this is if using the new VCarve Inlay toolpath, the old VCarve/Engraving toolpath allows you to select tapered ball nose bits. It may vary if your bit has a different angle also, but will certainly give somewhere to start.
So I checked and fit is almost perfect, gluegap is a bit on the deep side 1.5mm. need to do more tuning.
Sounds like you made progress, but I didn't quite follow your first comment below. When you said change the z zero from 14.3mm to 13.8mm are you talking in design software or fudging the zero on the machine to seat the plug lower? My whole video was also about using the new toolpath creates both inlay and plug at the same time, so if you are using the old method of doing the two separately I never dove into that and unfortunately couldn't help with settings. Dan