Skip to ruclips.net/video/DRMjOcyM6zQ/видео.html for inlay explanation and how to. Do you have a different inlay method? Post comments and questions below.
I’ve been watching a lot of videos in preparation for my first in-lay attempt. You have explained the process well. And I think I’ve learned more from your mistakes than other more experienced CNCers. Thank you for sharing. But I’m also ready for disaster. In a word….E P O X Y
Awesome job! Thank you for all the details and information. Also love that you leave in, explain, and work through mistakes and problems. We all encounter those in our projects. It is great to see you 'work the problem' and end up with a beautiful result! Nice work!
Good job. Not sure if this has been said or not but if you will do your Vcarve pass first and the clear second you will never have to worry about small parts breaking off.
Yes, this was mentioned. That is the order I do it now and it does help. But with certain woods I've still had issues. I think certain species of woods in certain grain orientations just aren't great for carving with a CNC. End grain Ash for example is just too brittle in my experience. If it was stabilized I'm sure it would be fine.
Awesome job Matt! That was a great recovery fixing the gaps on the first inlay. I felt your pain when I saw that and thought the whole piece was toast. Nice job!
I didn’t read through all the comments to see if it was mentioned, but I have used fine sawdust and mixed it with wood glue to fill small holes and imperfections. It has worked great for many situations. Not sure if that would have worked well on your first carne.
I've used that trick with great success myself. I think in this situation, there was too much dried glue filling the gaps. The gaps that weren't filled with dried glue were pretty big. Filling them with what amounts to wood filler, I don't think would have looked very good. But its definitely a good technique, in the right situation.
Thanks. I've used the saw dust/glue trick before. Works great on certain projects, for sure. I just wanted these inlays to be perfect. Mission accomplished.
Nice work, Matt! I'm about to attempt my first inlay with my Onefinity as well. Your video was super helpful! Any chance you could tell me what oil you used to finish it?
That is what I usually do for just the same reason. I've had success and fails either way. I think wood grain direction and feeds/speeds have a lot to do with it.
Curious if "Glue space" is either too big, or not needed at all? What about cases where the inlay is small enough, it will come into a point and you will have zero "glue space"? Have you attempted an inlay without a glue space? 2.54mm is too big of a gap for a glue joint to even work.
The gap isn't meant to be a glue joint. It's there so extra glue has space to flow. I haven't tried an inlay without a glue gap. Might be worth testing.
Have you ever considered a "negative start" for the Pocket? This will protect you against any unevenness. The clearing pass will remove the excess material
No I haven't. I've not had a problem with unevenness. I've done several inlays now pretty much exactly how I describe in this video and they have all been successful.
@@MattMadeIt123 Yes, I typically have 1mm of error. Maybe I'm overthinking it, all I have to do is to find the lowest point and Z-zero to that. Water or marble will tell me where the lowest point it
@eitantal726 1mm over what distance? Remember, it's just wood. If you try to chase perfection with wood, you'll drive yourself crazy. Be more concerned with the finished product. If it looks good at the end, you did well.
When making the male plug portion of the inlay I've found that the inlay portion is chipping out and breaking. Even with a new sharp bit. I'm using the v bit first, then a clearing tool path. Should I slow down my feeds and speeds? Thanks.
Email me the machine you're using, wood species, bit, and feed/speeds. mattmadeit123@gmail.com Sometimes, on delicate inlays, the tips can break off with some wood species. Usually, it is minimal, at the bottom of the inlay, and will never be seen.
yes I find that a problem too. I see the Vbit is push against the other side of the vcarved detail and its painful to watch those small details breaking off. I end up pushing the clearing path down an extra 1mm depth into the plug and used 20 ton hydraulic press to press the pug into the pocket. Works will.
Beware of that 15 degree v bit. It is advertised as a 1/4 inch shank. It is not. I got a set for Christmas and just tried one last week. It would not clamp down right in my Makita shop I started looking closer at it. Found out it is 6mm and not a 1/4 inch. Glad for your video though. I really want to try an inlay soon. Thanks.
Thanks for this info Bob. I have used these in my Makita RT0701C a few times without incident. They were tight with no wobble. That said, I am in my shop right now with these bits in my calipers. You're correct. All 3 measure .2355" or 5.99mm. I chucked each bit (I did notice I had to "over-tighten" the collet with these bits compared to others.) and ran them from low to high speed. Each one was tight and ran fine. I then installed a few of my true 1/4" bits to see if over tightening damaged my collet at all. Everything installed as normal. All that said, I think it's best if I, and others reading this, take these bits out of rotation if you're using a 1/4" router in your CNC. I will also remove them from my affiliate recommendations and look for a suitable replacement. Again, thanks for this information and helping out the community.
@@MattMadeIt123 I also used them in my router, but I think I will buy a 6mm collet for the router before doing a long carve. I could not find another 15 degree but I liked. I am thinking after reading the reviews, that the tips break off easy, so other manufacturers do not make them. Not sure though. Again, great video. I am needing to just go and try an inlay with your numbers.
@bobswihart Check out this video from ARB Woodworking. He uses these 15° bits. I put in a question to him about them and how he uses them. I'll let everyone know if i get a reply. ruclips.net/video/NY4nZN3Y6tw/видео.html
Flat depth has *nothing* to do with the amount of glue gap. It only determines how much of the plug sticks out above the pocket for the bandsaw gap, as you describe it. The start depth determines the glue gap. The difference between the plug start depth and the pocket depth is the amount of glue gap. Just take into account your clamping pressure. Which will reduce that gap. I’m sorry but there are too many videos on RUclips that perpetuate this “misinformation”. Try it! Increase your flat depth and watch, the only thing that will increase is the gap above the pocket! Just don’t go too far as the wood will crack under clamping pressure. So only do the minimum you need to cut the top of the plug off.
You can't just say Flat Depth has nothing to do with Glue Gap. You have to define which Flat Depth you're talking about. The difference between the Pocket Flat Depth and the Plug Start Depth determines the Glue Space. Which, I believe, is the point you're making. So yes, I misspoke when I said the Plug Flat Depth will determine the Glue Space. I think I got confused because in my example at ruclips.net/video/DRMjOcyM6zQ/видео.html my Glue Space and Gap are the same. Thanks for pointing this. I will try to be more accurate in the future.
@@MattMadeIt123 I’m sorry but you are wrong again. You don’t set a start depth when you carve the pocket. Unless you are doing an inlay in an already routed pocket but that it a different situation. You have to remember that the VCarve inlay is a “hack” of Vectric’s VCarve toolpath and when you carve the plug the roles of “start” and “flat” depths are reversed because you are carving upside down.
@John Greene That is incorrect. Of course you set a start depth when you carve a pocket. Pocket start depth is zero, and pocket flat depth is however deep you want your pocket to be, which will be the bottom of the glue gap. The plug start depth determines how much of the plug is inlayed into the pocket, and the difference between plug start and plug flat depths determines how much gap you have between the finished surface and the plug(aka the saw gap). Of course the plug is carved upside down. You have flip it over to insert it into the pocket. But on both carves, start depth is before flat depth as far as the CNC is concerned as it can only carve from the top down.
Skip to ruclips.net/video/DRMjOcyM6zQ/видео.html for inlay explanation and how to. Do you have a different inlay method? Post comments and questions below.
What CNC is this you didn’t list it in the description.
You explained this better and more clearly than all other videos I have watched, thanks.
Thanks for the kind comment. Glad you found the video helpful.
Lots of videos out there but the clear description of the start and flat depths was so helpful. Thank you, sir!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Best description of wood inlays yet. Plain english! Love It! Thank You!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
😊easier if you separate each text line of the plug. It allows to better insert each one since surface is lower.
This is a great tip. I've still only done a handful of inlays and have more to learn. Thanks.
I’ve been watching a lot of videos in preparation for my first in-lay attempt. You have explained the process well. And I think I’ve learned more from your mistakes than other more experienced CNCers. Thank you for sharing. But I’m also ready for disaster. In a word….E P O X Y
We all make mistakes. Might as well learn from them. I hope your inlays went well.
Awesome job! Thank you for all the details and information. Also love that you leave in, explain, and work through mistakes and problems. We all encounter those in our projects. It is great to see you 'work the problem' and end up with a beautiful result! Nice work!
Matt, your explanations are excellent.
I appreciate it. Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Good job. Not sure if this has been said or not but if you will do your Vcarve pass first and the clear second you will never have to worry about small parts breaking off.
Yes, this was mentioned. That is the order I do it now and it does help. But with certain woods I've still had issues. I think certain species of woods in certain grain orientations just aren't great for carving with a CNC. End grain Ash for example is just too brittle in my experience. If it was stabilized I'm sure it would be fine.
Great save. Maple was the correct choice.
Awesome job Matt! That was a great recovery fixing the gaps on the first inlay. I felt your pain when I saw that and thought the whole piece was toast. Nice job!
Thanks! Yeah, my heart sank when I saw that. But there is a solution to almost any problem.
I didn’t read through all the comments to see if it was mentioned, but I have used fine sawdust and mixed it with wood glue to fill small holes and imperfections. It has worked great for many situations. Not sure if that would have worked well on your first carne.
I've used that trick with great success myself. I think in this situation, there was too much dried glue filling the gaps. The gaps that weren't filled with dried glue were pretty big. Filling them with what amounts to wood filler, I don't think would have looked very good. But its definitely a good technique, in the right situation.
Well done, beautiful piece of craftsmanship.
Looks great! To fill the cracks next time use saw dust & glue. Works perfect. Final product is niiiiice 🙂
Thanks. I've used the saw dust/glue trick before. Works great on certain projects, for sure. I just wanted these inlays to be perfect. Mission accomplished.
@@MattMadeIt123 Good stuff! I'll stay tuned to see your work 👍🏼😊
Nice work, Matt! I'm about to attempt my first inlay with my Onefinity as well. Your video was super helpful! Any chance you could tell me what oil you used to finish it?
Just basic food grade mineral oil.
Saw another video where the guy recommended for the plug to do clearing pass after the detail pass. His reasoning is that tiny pieces stay supported.
That is what I usually do for just the same reason. I've had success and fails either way. I think wood grain direction and feeds/speeds have a lot to do with it.
Well done. That looks amazing. I like the Bible verse as well.
Thank you!
Came out great! Thanks for the educational video!
nice video. was that some sort of cooking oil you used?
Food grade mineral oil.
Great work! But how did you ever get it positioned in the right position to recarve the pocket again?
Very careful measuring and alignment. I was pretty nervous pressing start for that recarve.
Nice project, that was an really good explaination of the process. Very interesting.
Glad you liked it!
Curious if "Glue space" is either too big, or not needed at all? What about cases where the inlay is small enough, it will come into a point and you will have zero "glue space"? Have you attempted an inlay without a glue space? 2.54mm is too big of a gap for a glue joint to even work.
The gap isn't meant to be a glue joint. It's there so extra glue has space to flow. I haven't tried an inlay without a glue gap. Might be worth testing.
Respect, an amazing result.
Much appreciated. Thank you.
Coming from the world of hand inlaying in guitars, It would nice if there were different terms for straight cut inlays and bevel cut inlays.
Interesting point. They are definitely two very different techniques, and each one may or may not work in different situations.
Have you ever considered a "negative start" for the Pocket? This will protect you against any unevenness. The clearing pass will remove the excess material
No I haven't. I've not had a problem with unevenness. I've done several inlays now pretty much exactly how I describe in this video and they have all been successful.
@@MattMadeIt123 I ask, because I glue my own panels. I can't ever get it 100% exactly right
@eitantal726 I do to. Do you mean uneven on the surface?
@@MattMadeIt123 Yes, I typically have 1mm of error. Maybe I'm overthinking it, all I have to do is to find the lowest point and Z-zero to that. Water or marble will tell me where the lowest point it
@eitantal726 1mm over what distance? Remember, it's just wood. If you try to chase perfection with wood, you'll drive yourself crazy. Be more concerned with the finished product. If it looks good at the end, you did well.
Thanks for sharing your design and process. Can I ask the font type you used, it looks awesome.
I didn't save the design but going through the fonts in Vcarve, it looks like Monotype Corsiva.
@@MattMadeIt123 Thanks for taking the time to look.
The 2ND inlay I believe wasn't done as an end grain like you did with the ash or was it? Could that have been the issue more then the species of wood?
You are correct. Great point. Definitely something to watch in the future.
Brilliant vid honest and strait forward.
I appreciate it. Thanks for watching.
When making the male plug portion of the inlay I've found that the inlay portion is chipping out and breaking. Even with a new sharp bit. I'm using the v bit first, then a clearing tool path. Should I slow down my feeds and speeds? Thanks.
Email me the machine you're using, wood species, bit, and feed/speeds. mattmadeit123@gmail.com Sometimes, on delicate inlays, the tips can break off with some wood species. Usually, it is minimal, at the bottom of the inlay, and will never be seen.
yes I find that a problem too. I see the Vbit is push against the other side of the vcarved detail and its painful to watch those small details breaking off. I end up pushing the clearing path down an extra 1mm depth into the plug and used 20 ton hydraulic press to press the pug into the pocket. Works will.
Hi Matt,
nice video. Which CNC do you have there ?
Thanks. I have a Onefinty Woodworker.
hallo, I have sainsmart 6050 what router can I put to be able to use 1/4 bits as small 1/8 bits and very limited?
Sorry, I'm not familiar with that machine. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer.
Thank you 🙏🏾 140
Your welcome. Glad the video helped.
what was that stuff you poured on? baby oil?
Mineral oil.
@@MattMadeIt123 ah~ ok thank you!
Beware of that 15 degree v bit. It is advertised as a 1/4 inch shank. It is not. I got a set for Christmas and just tried one last week. It would not clamp down right in my Makita shop I started looking closer at it. Found out it is 6mm and not a 1/4 inch. Glad for your video though. I really want to try an inlay soon. Thanks.
Thanks for this info Bob. I have used these in my Makita RT0701C a few times without incident. They were tight with no wobble. That said, I am in my shop right now with these bits in my calipers. You're correct. All 3 measure .2355" or 5.99mm. I chucked each bit (I did notice I had to "over-tighten" the collet with these bits compared to others.) and ran them from low to high speed. Each one was tight and ran fine. I then installed a few of my true 1/4" bits to see if over tightening damaged my collet at all. Everything installed as normal. All that said, I think it's best if I, and others reading this, take these bits out of rotation if you're using a 1/4" router in your CNC. I will also remove them from my affiliate recommendations and look for a suitable replacement. Again, thanks for this information and helping out the community.
@@MattMadeIt123 I also used them in my router, but I think I will buy a 6mm collet for the router before doing a long carve. I could not find another 15 degree but I liked. I am thinking after reading the reviews, that the tips break off easy, so other manufacturers do not make them. Not sure though. Again, great video. I am needing to just go and try an inlay with your numbers.
@bobswihart Check out this video from ARB Woodworking. He uses these 15° bits. I put in a question to him about them and how he uses them. I'll let everyone know if i get a reply. ruclips.net/video/NY4nZN3Y6tw/видео.html
@@MattMadeIt123 oh, thank you. I will check his video out. Thank you again.
@@bobswihart So ARB got back to me. He does use a 6mm collet with those bits. I'm pretty sure he's using a spindle.
good video ,thanks
Thank you.
Flat depth has *nothing* to do with the amount of glue gap. It only determines how much of the plug sticks out above the pocket for the bandsaw gap, as you describe it. The start depth determines the glue gap. The difference between the plug start depth and the pocket depth is the amount of glue gap. Just take into account your clamping pressure. Which will reduce that gap. I’m sorry but there are too many videos on RUclips that perpetuate this “misinformation”. Try it! Increase your flat depth and watch, the only thing that will increase is the gap above the pocket! Just don’t go too far as the wood will crack under clamping pressure. So only do the minimum you need to cut the top of the plug off.
You can't just say Flat Depth has nothing to do with Glue Gap. You have to define which Flat Depth you're talking about. The difference between the Pocket Flat Depth and the Plug Start Depth determines the Glue Space. Which, I believe, is the point you're making. So yes, I misspoke when I said the Plug Flat Depth will determine the Glue Space. I think I got confused because in my example at ruclips.net/video/DRMjOcyM6zQ/видео.html my Glue Space and Gap are the same. Thanks for pointing this. I will try to be more accurate in the future.
@@MattMadeIt123 I’m sorry but you are wrong again. You don’t set a start depth when you carve the pocket. Unless you are doing an inlay in an already routed pocket but that it a different situation. You have to remember that the VCarve inlay is a “hack” of Vectric’s VCarve toolpath and when you carve the plug the roles of “start” and “flat” depths are reversed because you are carving upside down.
@John Greene That is incorrect. Of course you set a start depth when you carve a pocket. Pocket start depth is zero, and pocket flat depth is however deep you want your pocket to be, which will be the bottom of the glue gap. The plug start depth determines how much of the plug is inlayed into the pocket, and the difference between plug start and plug flat depths determines how much gap you have between the finished surface and the plug(aka the saw gap). Of course the plug is carved upside down. You have flip it over to insert it into the pocket. But on both carves, start depth is before flat depth as far as the CNC is concerned as it can only carve from the top down.
12:40 bwaaahahaha
Yeah. That was pretty ridiculous.
@@MattMadeIt123 I would try it as well 🙂🤘
use gloves
?
It's food grade mineral oil