Coming from Sony (mainly for nikons colour science) im amazed at how amazing their 1.8 S-Line Primes are…they really made a smart move to leave the cheap/trash glass to third party… i LOVE their rendering even more, then the Gmasters…they just render such beautiful falloff and colour in the bokeh..
SOOC JPEG. Part of some photographers' artistic vision is to deviate from neutral colour rendition (including flat neutral and vivid neutral). They have their profiles in Lightroom Classic (LrC) or in Capture One (C1) - self made or bought. When you shoot SOOC JPEG (RAW + JPEG or JPEG only), you actually use a "profile" that the camera applies in its "raw processing". These are called "Picture Control" by Nikon. If you use LrC (the raw processing work is done by Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) ), and leave it to "Adobe Standard" then LrC kicks off ACR with a profile for your specific camera that does the raw processing towards Adobe's preferences. With a standard LrC/ACR installation, you may end up with some 1,137 profile files (in Windows found in C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Lightroom Classic\Resources\CameraProfiles\Adobe Standard\). Alternatively, Adobe offers ACR/LrC profiles that attempt to mimic your camera's profiles. (In Windows, for a Nikon Z 9, you'll find these profile files in C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Lightroom Classic\Resources\CameraProfiles\Camera\Nikon Z 9\Nikon Z 9 Camera $PROFILE.dcp, where $PROFILE ={Flat; Landscape; Monochrome (Green Filter); Monochrome (Orange Filter); Monochrome (Red Filter); Monochrome (Yellow Filter); Monochrome; Neutral; Portrait; Standard; Vivid} ). The point of this introduction above is that you can make your own "Picture Control" profiles. You can do this in camera, but also in Nikon's "free" raw processing program "NX Studio". These profiles can be saved (exported) to a memory card and imported from the card by other cameras (or Nikon NX Studio). No, LrC/ACR cannot work with that. You would have to create your own .dcp (ACR) profile file to mimic your DIY in-camera profile. In the way that your WB setting influences your SOOC JPEG shots, Nikon's or your own profiles impact them as well. When you shoot raw too then you can generate new copies in post in order to repair for failures to adjust WB or profile, but in the case of JPEG only you have marginal correction margins.
This is the only photography video which mentions how the vertical grip makes it easier to hold the camera, because the bottom of the camera rests against the stronger part of the palm. Thank you! For me, it is also more comfortable to hold the Z9 in vertical orientation. There are a few subtle differences which seem to cause this: * The finger indent is 'deeper' in horizontal. * The 'outer' part of the grip is straight in vertical, curved in horizontal. * The hand has about 2cm more from the shutter release button to the 'bottom' in vertical than horizontal. * The 'main' part of the camera is wider than it is tall, by about 1.5 cm, slightly increasing the torque when held horizontally. * The lens is about 1cm further from the hand in horizontal than vertical, further increasing the torque due to the lens. * When held vertically, the battery is right next to the hand, minimizing the torque it causes. This bothered me a bit, but when you said what I was sensing, I wanted to figure out why. 😂
I use z9 and godox V1 as you do as off camera flash. what I find most impressive is that with TTL the illumination of subjects is perfect even with 2 light setup. this has not been possible with Nikon DSLR. the exposure is accurate even in dark rooms on flash. it's simply amazing
Glad to hear that you have the same positive experience with your camera and flash. I for the most part shoot in manual mode with my V1 but I’m sure that TTL mode just as good.
I Too just got done with Z9 Wedding!!! It was superb!!! Amazing you produced this same week I finished mine. The AF was incredibly Accurate💯💯. My hit rate was 98-99%! Thank you for sharing & allowing me to celebrate your success!! Keep Winning sir!!!
Yes, that’s incredible. Same idea with an 85 1.2 , you will end with 127 mm (close to 135 mm) at 1.2. I know that some people would debate you and me on this logic, but at the end of the day when you need a reach with prime lenses, I do switch to DX mode.
XQD and Z 9. While both XQD and SD-UHS-II are much too expensive, and I would suggest to stop buying those, you may still have some of them in your studio. As you shoot RAW + JPEG and the a JPEG is a lot smaller than a losslessly compressed RAW shot, you could test shooting a CFexpress Type B in slot 1 (RAW) with an XQD in slot 2 (JPEG). As long as you don't shoot "continuous high" bursts, you likely will never notice a delay.
I’ve been using z7ii bodies since 2021. I finally got my back ordered Z8 a month ago and I would encourage people to get a z7ii over a Z8. There is very little difference in image quality and they are way more affordable bodies. On my Z7ii I could use the FN1 button to switch between All AF (faces) to subject tracking. The Z8 and Z8 uses 3D tracking and not subject tracking for stills so you can not assign it to FN1. You can assign 3D tracking but you have to press and hold the FN1 button to remain in 3D mode. I’ve shot about 150 weddings since 2016 and I use 70-200 2.8 about 75% of the time.
I’m glad to hear that you enjoying your Z7II. I fully agree, it’s a great camera and if you shoot that amount of weddings you know how to use the camera and don’t expect that the camera will do it’s work. It’s about the artist rather than the camera. I would say that Z8 just like Z9 is more for anything. For portraits to sports to video. That’s why the price tag of the Z8. But for portraits and wedding with the 45 megapixel sensor,Z7 II is awesome.
@@TouchLifeStudio I never cared for the "it's about the artist rather than the camera" because if you are a great artist, which I am, it's all about the camera and how it allows you to do your job. The camera is just an extension of you and the Z7ii, Z8 and Z9 all have their advantages and disadvantages. For weddings photography there are minor advantages of the Z8 vs the Z7ii; up to 20fps raw, higher buffer, no flicker eyelet due to stacked sensor, better body ergonomics. The extra movement on back screen is nice but not game changing. The pre-capture release is great idea but if you do raw to CF express B card and jpg backup to SD card, the pre-captures end up on the SD card and its a pain to go through those to see if any helped you or not. The Z7ii has the same 45.7 mp sensor, basically the same sensor but you get blackout in the viewfinder. The AF systems are pretty much identical with the minor changes of vehicle, and inspect tracking, which does not matter when it comes to weddings. Being able to switch from auto AF faces to a single point tracking with a single press of a button is amazing. That feature alone made me consider returning both of the Z8 i bought. Trying to switch focus modes on the fly when you camera wants to focus on the wrong things sucks and you have to press the focus mode button, which is placed in a awkward spot and roll a command dial vs just using your middle finger on your right hand to swap modes. Now for video, hands down the Z8 is better. They did not advertise better stabilization but hand holding a z7ii vs z8 is a major difference. Personally I'd rather have a z8 vs a z9 because I never liked those big bodies. They are clunky and I use hand straps on my cameras, so its easier to rotate my hand counter clockwise and let the camera body weight rest on the back of my hand when I am doing a portrait photo. I am not sure if they make hand straps for a z9 and you would have to take your hand out, and place it in the second one would seems stupid. Add to it I LOVE LOVE LOVE my 70-200 2.8 lens so the extra weight of the Z9 would make it even heavier. I am really surprised about the battery life of the Z7ii and Z8 for weddings. I generally get around 1500 photos (shooting 9 to 12 fps) within 4-5 hours before I need to switch one of my batteries. I am using the Nikon EN-EL15C batteries. Last take, you can buy 2.5 z7ii for the cost of a Z8. If you search the sold auctions on ebay they are selling for 1600-1800 on average. The Z8 are $4000 right now new, and good luck finding a use one.
Great video, really appreciate your descriptions and reasons why you go with the lenses you have. Your videos got my to ditch my D850 a while back and pick up a Z9. What a fantastic camera especially after the 4.0 update. Thanks for you videos, keep up the great work.
Thank you Patrick for the kind words and encouragement. I agree with you, 70-200 2.8 z lens is exceptional and has some may applications from portraiture to near by wild life to sports. Before I purchased the 70-200 2.8 z lens, that's exactly what I did, I tested it in the store and after a few shots I knew right away - THAT'S THE ONE!
Might be a good idea to even pic up the Nikon 24-70mm f4 as a backup or the Nikon 28-75mm f2.8 or the Nikon 24-120mm f4 or the Tamron 35-150mm f2-2.8 lens. Always good to have backup lens and backup flashes and backup batteries. A few years ago I had a wedding on Saturday and Sunday and I forgot to recharge my camera batteries when I got home on Saturday but I had backup batteries so I was ok.
I have duplicates is a must. I had a camera start messing up on me during a ceremony and I didn’t have time to problem solve. I moved quickly to the back and grabbed my extra D850 and swapped lenses and went to work. I only like to have backups of the same camera as the main so all the buttons and settings mirror one another. I know this is a luxury can not afford though.
Hi Touch Life - I have watched you before and I know we have interacted in the past, but I am giving you a subscribe today because I think that was a great video. You impart much information and with nice photos from the field to back up and support what you are saying and trying to teach. As a fellow wedding photographer, I agree with most of what you are saying - and have some differences of opinion on how I would do certain things - but in general have to say I agree mostly with your views and experiences. This is the type of video that RUclips and the RUclips photo community should be watching and it is nice to see it done well. In the past when I have made videos about actually shooting in the field, they never did very well - it always seems like RUclips is just looking for gear vids and arguments. Anyway, congratulations on a well done and sincere video that I think can benefit many who are looking to get into this field. Nice work sir! -PD P.S. You took some really nice photos at the wedding as well!
Thanks PD. I love teaching and sharing what I learn. YT community taught me a lot and I continue learning and can't help to share my experience with others as I love seeing others succeed and enjoy photography. And yes, I remember your great suggestions about the 105 1.4 lens and you got me convinced. Thank you for kind and encouraging words.
Less editing with speedlight than outdoors? Do you use Auto WB? The camera may go to a default "flash WB" when you use flash and try to figure WB out in software when you shoot in ambient light. In that case, the camera's AI needs to figure out what is in the image at the raw content level and how to interpret the raw data. A less than optimal interpretation can cause a deviation in WB between subsequent images. This will be less than in cameras of a couple years ago, but it will be visible to the professional eye. When you shoot RAW only, note that the WB number is just a number in the metadata with each shot and the raw data stays the same irrespective of the WB number. So that WB number is only used to render your raw image in post. As you shoot RAW+JPEG, the WB becomes important in the rendition of your JPEGs and either you need to adjust WB manually for each change in light or have the camera on Auto WB. Personally, I would never go to Auto WB. Call that old school, but it e.g. means that the golden hour looks golden, rather than an Auto WB muted variant. My camera, I shoot raw only, is always on "Cloudy".
The Z9 is very good at adapting to the Auto WB. Indoors it is mostly the same and stays consistent. Outdoors there are lots of variation during the wedding day (cloudy, sunny, party cloudy). I mostly shoot in auto WB but still in RAW, speed is critical at weddings to get around. I noticed that i spent less time in post with indoor shoots where i used the speed light than editing outdoor shots.
@@TouchLifeStudio - my assumption (wild-assed guess) is that the camera switches WB to "Flash" when you mount a flash and switch it on. With Auto WB, the camera needs to process a lot of AI to understand the frame and choose a WB number. I don't shoot any SOOC JPEG and in my case, I use a ColorChecker Passport (CCP) to shoot a reference shot with each series in a specific light situation. Then in post, adjusting colour and tint is just a matter of applying the eye dropper to a grey patch in the CCP and apply the result to the series with that reference shot. In a wedding you may have between dozens and hundred(s) of shots in the same light. But that does not work with JPEG. In my case, imagine an event in a large room/hall partially lit with tungsten of different kinds but on an overcast winter day and two sides (90 degrees to each other) there's daylight coming in. I started the shoot with walking around with my lightmeter and measuring the light in the room. I averaged that out into one manual setting for the entire series in that space and time slot. It meant that some pictures looked somewhat darker than others but all perfectly represented the atmosphere of the room and the spot of the people in the shots. With the CCP I took two reference shots on either end of the room. Then in post I created a merged ICC profile with the CCP software and applied those. Well, hours of event required almost zero adjustment after that. Generate JPEGs, bam, done. With a 24MP DSLR it meant that the camera did not have to do WB processing and the manual setting also meant there was no exposure related processing. Latency between pressing the shutter release was instantaneous and so was AF. But, with a Z 9 or 8 I would approach this differently. I am very curious to learn at what LV the 9 becomes uncertain about recognising eyes (but with bland blondes who have less contrast between white of their eyes and the pale blue).
I would always shoot raw+jpeg to two cards. If your card that only shoots raw has a issues then jpegs are your only backup but they can't be edited as well or if you need to fix the exposure they don't work as well as raw. I've read stories about raw files not being able to open so my two cards write raw+jpeg I try and have as many backups as I can.
I probably would do that if I was still shooting dslrs, but with mirrorless tech, most of my images exposure already looks good straight out of camera. And if I need to edit a few JPGs, given that images are mostly well exposed, pushing JPGs file sliders a bit is not that bad. But I still can see you point, could be helpful.
@@TouchLifeStudio I have talked to two photographers that had their raw files corrupt. One photographer I think was shooting the Canon 6D and the raw data was all messed up. This photographer had to use some software to pull out the jpeg from the raw file. Another photographer was shooting a Panasonic full frame camera I think the 45 megapixel and their raw files got messed up also. I don't know if it got messed up before it got written to the card or there was a issue with that card. I think they was shooting raw+jpeg. If it was the card shooting raw+jpeg then you have a second chance the raw files on the other card will be ok.
Great video- but unrelated question. In your time with the Z9, how often have you calibrated your battery? OEM calibrate light is flashing, but i ignored as it is acting fine. My backup wasabi (with little use) recently was read dead by body, but full by charger. Calibrate seems to have fixed this issue with the wasabi. Curious if i should do it with the OEM or leave it be until performance change noticed?
I had one time when the Z9 battery needed to be calibrated. I was very surprised. It took nearly 10 hours on the charger to go through the calibration cycle. If I remember correctly, it had to be discharged first and then recharged, but everything was done on the charger and by the charger plugged in. I have not used any other batteries for the Z9 except for the OEM version of the battery. Hope this helps.
@@TouchLifeStudio Recalibrating the wasabi took so long i was beginning to question if the charger was working properly. Have read mixed results on if calibrating lengthens or shortens battery life, so going to read up more first before messing with that expensive OEM. Either way, thanks for always replying!
I loved this. Thank you so much. I have the Nikon Z6ii and Z7 and adore both. I also have all the lenses you do - except the Z 70-200 2.8. I still have the F Mount version and am wondering if I should trade it for the Z version :) Quick question: the colours and skin tones of your video are gorgeous. I assume you were filming with the Z6ii. What is your workflow for video and how are you colour grading your footage? It looks fantastic.
Thank you friend. It depends on your cause use of the f mount lenses. I fully transitioned to z lenses because I also do video. As far as video recording, I shoot in Portrait Picture control with custom white balance 4K/24, yes on Z6II. Hope I was able to help.
I was like you and keep several F lenses (70-200mm 2.8) for a short time after selling my DSLR’s and going all in with a Z6 and eventually adding a Z9. I did the full plunge when I sold the rest of my F lenses and replace them with Z lenses. The one I’m blowing away by is how much I love the Z 70-200mm 2.8. It’s an amazing lens and I found it sharp through a wider ranger of f stops. Very happy I switched. If you have a chance to test one or try it at a camera store, you’ll be surprised how great the lens is.
@@patrickmcmahon818 Great decision. I adore all my Z Mount lenses as well. And I dream of owning the Z 70-200 2.8! It’s obviously a big investment. I was wondering about the new, cheaper Z 70-180 without built-in IBIS. Like you I do video and photos. I love my F Mount version for photos. It’s really for video that I am thinking of getting the Z Mount version. If you have any views on the Z 70-180 I’d be interested to hear them :)
Battery - 3,300 mAh (=3.3Ah) indeed in the model 18 battery of the 9, but also a higher voltage than the 15 series in the 8 (and 7/6 Mk i & ii). Applying a law of physics in that W=V*A for theoretical power or Wh=V*Ah for energy capacity, you can see that the 18 battery has 200% of the Wh juice of a 15. What the 9 does with the higher voltage remains a question unanswered by the Nikon sphinx. Maybe it runs e.g. AF motors at a higher voltage and they would run faster, or its processor, or it uses it for more/faster fame buffer memory (S-RAM?). And it may use the higher voltage to scan the sensor faster, more rows/columns in parallel through the stacked to the processor chip. (Note that the sensor's photocells - each cell is a photodiode with a C-MOS circuit and these are called "photosites" - are analogue. They are also colour blind. No, a sensor has no pixels (picture elements) and in a digital sense cannot generate pixels. And if we define a pixel as having RGB then the raw data/image/file does not have pixels either.) And as it can run two very high speed CFexpress Type B slots in parallel the 9 may just use the higher voltage there. Two slots that no doubt also have a different chipset next to the EXPEED 7 including I/O controller(s). Compared to the CFexpress Type B, SD-UHS-II is in kindergarten and way too expensive. We don't know what the 9 does with the higher voltage. It may just get DC-DC down-converted and be used to run longer.
Interesting observations. I’m not sure what Nikon Z9 does with higher voltage, its above my understanding, but just like EVs with higher battery capacity can run multiple motors and pick us speed much faster, maybe the same analogy is with camera batteries where higher voltage can do more for processing data. I don’s really know.
Less editing with a speedlight. Ages ago, studio strobes and speedlights potentially had two problems: (A) their max flash duration was too long and (B) with varying flash duration and power they did not have consistency (both in guide number and in colour temperature). The first brand to solve these was the Swiss firm Bron that designs, makes and sells "broncolor" strobes. While Bron had solved this puzzle around 1980, their best known competitor Pro.foto still had not solved it in 2010. In the meantime, the "Pro" in that band has become more meaningful, and camera brands already had sorted this out. But also cheap Chinese brands have addressed it by now. God Ox (the Chinese version of the brand means "god ox" or "holy cow" - nothing to do with "go dogs") does reasonably well by now. The consistency between subsequent flashes in power and colour helps a lot in removing the need to edit marginal differences away.
Coming from Sony (mainly for nikons colour science) im amazed at how amazing their 1.8 S-Line Primes are…they really made a smart move to leave the cheap/trash glass to third party… i LOVE their rendering even more, then the Gmasters…they just render such beautiful falloff and colour in the bokeh..
Agree to that
SOOC JPEG. Part of some photographers' artistic vision is to deviate from neutral colour rendition (including flat neutral and vivid neutral). They have their profiles in Lightroom Classic (LrC) or in Capture One (C1) - self made or bought.
When you shoot SOOC JPEG (RAW + JPEG or JPEG only), you actually use a "profile" that the camera applies in its "raw processing". These are called "Picture Control" by Nikon. If you use LrC (the raw processing work is done by Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) ), and leave it to "Adobe Standard" then LrC kicks off ACR with a profile for your specific camera that does the raw processing towards Adobe's preferences. With a standard LrC/ACR installation, you may end up with some 1,137 profile files (in Windows found in C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Lightroom Classic\Resources\CameraProfiles\Adobe Standard\). Alternatively, Adobe offers ACR/LrC profiles that attempt to mimic your camera's profiles. (In Windows, for a Nikon Z 9, you'll find these profile files in C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Lightroom Classic\Resources\CameraProfiles\Camera\Nikon Z 9\Nikon Z 9 Camera $PROFILE.dcp, where $PROFILE ={Flat; Landscape; Monochrome (Green Filter); Monochrome (Orange Filter); Monochrome (Red Filter); Monochrome (Yellow Filter); Monochrome; Neutral; Portrait; Standard; Vivid} ).
The point of this introduction above is that you can make your own "Picture Control" profiles. You can do this in camera, but also in Nikon's "free" raw processing program "NX Studio". These profiles can be saved (exported) to a memory card and imported from the card by other cameras (or Nikon NX Studio). No, LrC/ACR cannot work with that. You would have to create your own .dcp (ACR) profile file to mimic your DIY in-camera profile.
In the way that your WB setting influences your SOOC JPEG shots, Nikon's or your own profiles impact them as well. When you shoot raw too then you can generate new copies in post in order to repair for failures to adjust WB or profile, but in the case of JPEG only you have marginal correction margins.
This is the only photography video which mentions how the vertical grip makes it easier to hold the camera, because the bottom of the camera rests against the stronger part of the palm. Thank you!
For me, it is also more comfortable to hold the Z9 in vertical orientation. There are a few subtle differences which seem to cause this:
* The finger indent is 'deeper' in horizontal.
* The 'outer' part of the grip is straight in vertical, curved in horizontal.
* The hand has about 2cm more from the shutter release button to the 'bottom' in vertical than horizontal.
* The 'main' part of the camera is wider than it is tall, by about 1.5 cm, slightly increasing the torque when held horizontally.
* The lens is about 1cm further from the hand in horizontal than vertical, further increasing the torque due to the lens.
* When held vertically, the battery is right next to the hand, minimizing the torque it causes.
This bothered me a bit, but when you said what I was sensing, I wanted to figure out why. 😂
Yes, I love Nikon Z9's vertical grip. It does not make the camera feel heavy because it is properly design for ergonomics.
You should really upload videos more frequently. Your videos are always nice looking and informative.
Thank you. Working on it 📸📸📸
The Z9 videos look amazing. I've been capturing a combination of stills and videos from events when I have time.
I use z9 and godox V1 as you do as off camera flash. what I find most impressive is that with TTL the illumination of subjects is perfect even with 2 light setup. this has not been possible with Nikon DSLR. the exposure is accurate even in dark rooms on flash. it's simply amazing
Glad to hear that you have the same positive experience with your camera and flash. I for the most part shoot in manual mode with my V1 but I’m sure that TTL mode just as good.
I Too just got done with Z9 Wedding!!! It was superb!!! Amazing you produced this same week I finished mine. The AF was incredibly Accurate💯💯. My hit rate was 98-99%! Thank you for sharing & allowing me to celebrate your success!! Keep Winning sir!!!
Thanks Ronald. It’s great to hear that you had a similar experience with your Z9. Thank you for the encouraging words.
What lenses did you use?
For weeding in my bag i replace the 70-200 2.8 by the Plena 135.1.8. Just by pressing an Fn button you can now zoom in DX and you have an 200mm 1.8
Yes, that’s incredible. Same idea with an 85 1.2 , you will end with 127 mm (close to 135 mm) at 1.2. I know that some people would debate you and me on this logic, but at the end of the day when you need a reach with prime lenses, I do switch to DX mode.
XQD and Z 9. While both XQD and SD-UHS-II are much too expensive, and I would suggest to stop buying those, you may still have some of them in your studio. As you shoot RAW + JPEG and the a JPEG is a lot smaller than a losslessly compressed RAW shot, you could test shooting a CFexpress Type B in slot 1 (RAW) with an XQD in slot 2 (JPEG). As long as you don't shoot "continuous high" bursts, you likely will never notice a delay.
I’ve been using z7ii bodies since 2021. I finally got my back ordered Z8 a month ago and I would encourage people to get a z7ii over a Z8. There is very little difference in image quality and they are way more affordable bodies.
On my Z7ii I could use the FN1 button to switch between All AF (faces) to subject tracking. The Z8 and Z8 uses 3D tracking and not subject tracking for stills so you can not assign it to FN1. You can assign 3D tracking but you have to press and hold the FN1 button to remain in 3D mode.
I’ve shot about 150 weddings since 2016 and I use 70-200 2.8 about 75% of the time.
I’m glad to hear that you enjoying your Z7II. I fully agree, it’s a great camera and if you shoot that amount of weddings you know how to use the camera and don’t expect that the camera will do it’s work. It’s about the artist rather than the camera.
I would say that Z8 just like Z9 is more for anything. For portraits to sports to video. That’s why the price tag of the Z8. But for portraits and wedding with the 45 megapixel sensor,Z7 II is awesome.
@@TouchLifeStudio I never cared for the "it's about the artist rather than the camera" because if you are a great artist, which I am, it's all about the camera and how it allows you to do your job. The camera is just an extension of you and the Z7ii, Z8 and Z9 all have their advantages and disadvantages. For weddings photography there are minor advantages of the Z8 vs the Z7ii; up to 20fps raw, higher buffer, no flicker eyelet due to stacked sensor, better body ergonomics. The extra movement on back screen is nice but not game changing. The pre-capture release is great idea but if you do raw to CF express B card and jpg backup to SD card, the pre-captures end up on the SD card and its a pain to go through those to see if any helped you or not.
The Z7ii has the same 45.7 mp sensor, basically the same sensor but you get blackout in the viewfinder. The AF systems are pretty much identical with the minor changes of vehicle, and inspect tracking, which does not matter when it comes to weddings. Being able to switch from auto AF faces to a single point tracking with a single press of a button is amazing. That feature alone made me consider returning both of the Z8 i bought. Trying to switch focus modes on the fly when you camera wants to focus on the wrong things sucks and you have to press the focus mode button, which is placed in a awkward spot and roll a command dial vs just using your middle finger on your right hand to swap modes.
Now for video, hands down the Z8 is better. They did not advertise better stabilization but hand holding a z7ii vs z8 is a major difference. Personally I'd rather have a z8 vs a z9 because I never liked those big bodies. They are clunky and I use hand straps on my cameras, so its easier to rotate my hand counter clockwise and let the camera body weight rest on the back of my hand when I am doing a portrait photo. I am not sure if they make hand straps for a z9 and you would have to take your hand out, and place it in the second one would seems stupid. Add to it I LOVE LOVE LOVE my 70-200 2.8 lens so the extra weight of the Z9 would make it even heavier.
I am really surprised about the battery life of the Z7ii and Z8 for weddings. I generally get around 1500 photos (shooting 9 to 12 fps) within 4-5 hours before I need to switch one of my batteries. I am using the Nikon EN-EL15C batteries.
Last take, you can buy 2.5 z7ii for the cost of a Z8. If you search the sold auctions on ebay they are selling for 1600-1800 on average. The Z8 are $4000 right now new, and good luck finding a use one.
Great video, really appreciate your descriptions and reasons why you go with the lenses you have. Your videos got my to ditch my D850 a while back and pick up a Z9. What a fantastic camera especially after the 4.0 update. Thanks for you videos, keep up the great work.
Thank you Patrick for the kind words and encouragement. I agree with you, 70-200 2.8 z lens is exceptional and has some may applications from portraiture to near by wild life to sports. Before I purchased the 70-200 2.8 z lens, that's exactly what I did, I tested it in the store and after a few shots I knew right away - THAT'S THE ONE!
Function buttons are the big advantage I find with my Z9 over my Z8 and Z6ii.
I can see that.
Appreciate your content and thoughts, keep it coming.
And nice music for intro...
Much appreciated
Might be a good idea to even pic up the Nikon 24-70mm f4 as a backup or the Nikon 28-75mm f2.8 or the Nikon 24-120mm f4 or the Tamron 35-150mm f2-2.8 lens. Always good to have backup lens and backup flashes and backup batteries.
A few years ago I had a wedding on Saturday and Sunday and I forgot to recharge my camera batteries when I got home on Saturday but I had backup batteries so I was ok.
Agree, alway good to have redundancy in photography gear for major events, not only dual card slots. Great suggestions my friend. Thank you.
I have duplicates is a must. I had a camera start messing up on me during a ceremony and I didn’t have time to problem solve. I moved quickly to the back and grabbed my extra D850 and swapped lenses and went to work. I only like to have backups of the same camera as the main so all the buttons and settings mirror one another. I know this is a luxury can not afford though.
The 24-120 is a good lens, very versatile.
@@brianglock3099 How is the 24-120 f4 when the light get lowered at a wedding. Do you have to use the assist beam for auto focus?
@@brianglock3099 agree. Definitely covers most needs.
NIce video brother. good to see you back.
I have full spectrum converted my Z9 and 4.1 really ups the AF!!!
Hi Touch Life - I have watched you before and I know we have interacted in the past, but I am giving you a subscribe today because I think that was a great video.
You impart much information and with nice photos from the field to back up and support what you are saying and trying to teach. As a fellow wedding photographer, I agree with most of what you are saying - and have some differences of opinion on how I would do certain things - but in general have to say I agree mostly with your views and experiences.
This is the type of video that RUclips and the RUclips photo community should be watching and it is nice to see it done well. In the past when I have made videos about actually shooting in the field, they never did very well - it always seems like RUclips is just looking for gear vids and arguments.
Anyway, congratulations on a well done and sincere video that I think can benefit many who are looking to get into this field.
Nice work sir!
-PD
P.S. You took some really nice photos at the wedding as well!
Thanks PD. I love teaching and sharing what I learn. YT community taught me a lot and I continue learning and can't help to share my experience with others as I love seeing others succeed and enjoy photography. And yes, I remember your great suggestions about the 105 1.4 lens and you got me convinced. Thank you for kind and encouraging words.
@@TouchLifeStudio Keep up the good work - let's keep in touch!
Less editing with speedlight than outdoors? Do you use Auto WB? The camera may go to a default "flash WB" when you use flash and try to figure WB out in software when you shoot in ambient light. In that case, the camera's AI needs to figure out what is in the image at the raw content level and how to interpret the raw data. A less than optimal interpretation can cause a deviation in WB between subsequent images. This will be less than in cameras of a couple years ago, but it will be visible to the professional eye.
When you shoot RAW only, note that the WB number is just a number in the metadata with each shot and the raw data stays the same irrespective of the WB number. So that WB number is only used to render your raw image in post.
As you shoot RAW+JPEG, the WB becomes important in the rendition of your JPEGs and either you need to adjust WB manually for each change in light or have the camera on Auto WB. Personally, I would never go to Auto WB. Call that old school, but it e.g. means that the golden hour looks golden, rather than an Auto WB muted variant. My camera, I shoot raw only, is always on "Cloudy".
The Z9 is very good at adapting to the Auto WB. Indoors it is mostly the same and stays consistent. Outdoors there are lots of variation during the wedding day (cloudy, sunny, party cloudy). I mostly shoot in auto WB but still in RAW, speed is critical at weddings to get around. I noticed that i spent less time in post with indoor shoots where i used the speed light than editing outdoor shots.
@@TouchLifeStudio - my assumption (wild-assed guess) is that the camera switches WB to "Flash" when you mount a flash and switch it on. With Auto WB, the camera needs to process a lot of AI to understand the frame and choose a WB number. I don't shoot any SOOC JPEG and in my case, I use a ColorChecker Passport (CCP) to shoot a reference shot with each series in a specific light situation. Then in post, adjusting colour and tint is just a matter of applying the eye dropper to a grey patch in the CCP and apply the result to the series with that reference shot. In a wedding you may have between dozens and hundred(s) of shots in the same light.
But that does not work with JPEG.
In my case, imagine an event in a large room/hall partially lit with tungsten of different kinds but on an overcast winter day and two sides (90 degrees to each other) there's daylight coming in. I started the shoot with walking around with my lightmeter and measuring the light in the room. I averaged that out into one manual setting for the entire series in that space and time slot. It meant that some pictures looked somewhat darker than others but all perfectly represented the atmosphere of the room and the spot of the people in the shots. With the CCP I took two reference shots on either end of the room. Then in post I created a merged ICC profile with the CCP software and applied those. Well, hours of event required almost zero adjustment after that. Generate JPEGs, bam, done. With a 24MP DSLR it meant that the camera did not have to do WB processing and the manual setting also meant there was no exposure related processing. Latency between pressing the shutter release was instantaneous and so was AF.
But, with a Z 9 or 8 I would approach this differently.
I am very curious to learn at what LV the 9 becomes uncertain about recognising eyes (but with bland blondes who have less contrast between white of their eyes and the pale blue).
I would always shoot raw+jpeg to two cards. If your card that only shoots raw has a issues then jpegs are your only backup but they can't be edited as well or if you need to fix the exposure they don't work as well as raw. I've read stories about raw files not being able to open so my two cards write raw+jpeg I try and have as many backups as I can.
I probably would do that if I was still shooting dslrs, but with mirrorless tech, most of my images exposure already looks good straight out of camera. And if I need to edit a few JPGs, given that images are mostly well exposed, pushing JPGs file sliders a bit is not that bad. But I still can see you point, could be helpful.
@@TouchLifeStudio I have talked to two photographers that had their raw files corrupt. One photographer I think was shooting the Canon 6D and the raw data was all messed up. This photographer had to use some software to pull out the jpeg from the raw file.
Another photographer was shooting a Panasonic full frame camera I think the 45 megapixel and their raw files got messed up also. I don't know if it got messed up before it got written to the card or there was a issue with that card. I think they was shooting raw+jpeg. If it was the card shooting raw+jpeg then you have a second chance the raw files on the other card will be ok.
Great video- but unrelated question.
In your time with the Z9, how often have you calibrated your battery? OEM calibrate light is flashing, but i ignored as it is acting fine. My backup wasabi (with little use) recently was read dead by body, but full by charger. Calibrate seems to have fixed this issue with the wasabi. Curious if i should do it with the OEM or leave it be until performance change noticed?
I had one time when the Z9 battery needed to be calibrated. I was very surprised. It took nearly 10 hours on the charger to go through the calibration cycle. If I remember correctly, it had to be discharged first and then recharged, but everything was done on the charger and by the charger plugged in. I have not used any other batteries for the Z9 except for the OEM version of the battery. Hope this helps.
@@TouchLifeStudio Recalibrating the wasabi took so long i was beginning to question if the charger was working properly. Have read mixed results on if calibrating lengthens or shortens battery life, so going to read up more first before messing with that expensive OEM.
Either way, thanks for always replying!
@@uhoh7541 you bet!
Beautiful skin tone and sharpness!
Thank you Orion
I loved this. Thank you so much. I have the Nikon Z6ii and Z7 and adore both. I also have all the lenses you do - except the Z 70-200 2.8. I still have the F Mount version and am wondering if I should trade it for the Z version :) Quick question: the colours and skin tones of your video are gorgeous. I assume you were filming with the Z6ii. What is your workflow for video and how are you colour grading your footage? It looks fantastic.
Thank you friend. It depends on your cause use of the f mount lenses. I fully transitioned to z lenses because I also do video. As far as video recording, I shoot in Portrait Picture control with custom white balance 4K/24, yes on Z6II. Hope I was able to help.
@@TouchLifeStudio Great! I will give that a go next time. Thank you!
I was like you and keep several F lenses (70-200mm 2.8) for a short time after selling my DSLR’s and going all in with a Z6 and eventually adding a Z9. I did the full plunge when I sold the rest of my F lenses and replace them with Z lenses. The one I’m blowing away by is how much I love the Z 70-200mm 2.8. It’s an amazing lens and I found it sharp through a wider ranger of f stops. Very happy I switched. If you have a chance to test one or try it at a camera store, you’ll be surprised how great the lens is.
@@patrickmcmahon818 Great decision. I adore all my Z Mount lenses as well. And I dream of owning the Z 70-200 2.8! It’s obviously a big investment. I was wondering about the new, cheaper Z 70-180 without built-in IBIS. Like you I do video and photos. I love my F Mount version for photos. It’s really for video that I am thinking of getting the Z Mount version. If you have any views on the Z 70-180 I’d be interested to hear them :)
@@zakcole2229 Hey Zak, don’t have the 70-180 but if it’s anything like the other lenses I’ve picked up, you wont be disappointed. Good luck to you.
Will my flash (sb-900) work fine with the z9? I just got it two days ago! 😊 Great channel!
Battery - 3,300 mAh (=3.3Ah) indeed in the model 18 battery of the 9, but also a higher voltage than the 15 series in the 8 (and 7/6 Mk i & ii). Applying a law of physics in that W=V*A for theoretical power or Wh=V*Ah for energy capacity, you can see that the 18 battery has 200% of the Wh juice of a 15. What the 9 does with the higher voltage remains a question unanswered by the Nikon sphinx. Maybe it runs e.g. AF motors at a higher voltage and they would run faster, or its processor, or it uses it for more/faster fame buffer memory (S-RAM?).
And it may use the higher voltage to scan the sensor faster, more rows/columns in parallel through the stacked to the processor chip. (Note that the sensor's photocells - each cell is a photodiode with a C-MOS circuit and these are called "photosites" - are analogue. They are also colour blind. No, a sensor has no pixels (picture elements) and in a digital sense cannot generate pixels. And if we define a pixel as having RGB then the raw data/image/file does not have pixels either.)
And as it can run two very high speed CFexpress Type B slots in parallel the 9 may just use the higher voltage there. Two slots that no doubt also have a different chipset next to the EXPEED 7 including I/O controller(s). Compared to the CFexpress Type B, SD-UHS-II is in kindergarten and way too expensive.
We don't know what the 9 does with the higher voltage. It may just get DC-DC down-converted and be used to run longer.
Interesting observations. I’m not sure what Nikon Z9 does with higher voltage, its above my understanding, but just like EVs with higher battery capacity can run multiple motors and pick us speed much faster, maybe the same analogy is with camera batteries where higher voltage can do more for processing data. I don’s really know.
Less editing with a speedlight. Ages ago, studio strobes and speedlights potentially had two problems: (A) their max flash duration was too long and (B) with varying flash duration and power they did not have consistency (both in guide number and in colour temperature).
The first brand to solve these was the Swiss firm Bron that designs, makes and sells "broncolor" strobes. While Bron had solved this puzzle around 1980, their best known competitor Pro.foto still had not solved it in 2010.
In the meantime, the "Pro" in that band has become more meaningful, and camera brands already had sorted this out. But also cheap Chinese brands have addressed it by now. God Ox (the Chinese version of the brand means "god ox" or "holy cow" - nothing to do with "go dogs") does reasonably well by now.
The consistency between subsequent flashes in power and colour helps a lot in removing the need to edit marginal differences away.
Very good video
Thanks
Just bought this. I’m a wedding photog 😊
Love my z9 but I swooped to use Sony for weddings. Much lighter with more reliable autofocus
Which Sony are you using and in what conditions is the autofocus better
@@grom5756 alpha1, more accurate and faster
user error. only the A1 has comparable auto-focus to the z9
@@Juventinos it’s not user error it’s experience with both and the a1 is better in my opinion.