LS STEAM LINE HOOK UP AND EXPLANATION
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- LS STEAM LINE HOOK UP AND EXPLANATION
Do I need the steam lines when I do my ls swap? What are the LS steam ports for? How do I hook the steam lines up? Where do I connect the steam lines? LET ME SHOW YOU!!
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Thnx for the info. I've asked several people why I need that steam port and now I know!
I know the reason why the back ports are there. They did that because it made the cylinder heads interchangeable left to right. If the we’re missing in the back they would be specific for each cylinder bank.
So easy to follow in answered everything. Please keep these videos going, not everybody actually explains stuff right.
Thanks for watching. There is an entire playlist of these videos on the channel. It’s the “LS Tips and Tricks” playlist.
I really like your down to earth videos. Thanks for being one of the best teachers on the internet!
Now I know what them lines are for on my LR4 4.8 thanks keep the good work up I can clearly understand your guidance no music in the background is a plus for slow learner and hard of hearing. since I've stumbled across your video I'm gonna explore your other videos
Glad you found it helpful brother. Just to help you navigate the channel, you can search by playlists. There is a playlist Titled “LS SWAP TIPS AND TRICKS” that has a lot of LS basics videos. Then there are also desperate playlists for each of the project vehicles I’ve built in the channel as well. 👍🏻
I love how you answer everyone's questions. 👍
I do what I can. Sometimes I might miss a few here and there that don’t show up in my notifications though.
at 11;25 in the video you show tapping and installing the steam line at the heater hoses outlet... you did say you have not done this ,,, but I did this and it is not working ... I have bleed the system and it still traps air in the heads as it tries to boil the water is the heads and the temp reading go to 250 .... just a heads up
Yea I threw that in there because I’ve seen people do it. But it’s not really a method I recommend. I prefer tapping the pump or using the pump spacers that are already tapped. Those are the cleanest looking and, in my opinion, most efficient methods.
thanks for your help!!! i've just changed over water pump and I cannot believe the amount of water trapped in the thing. You have made it so clear!!! good job :)
Glad the video helped you out brother. 👍🏻
Steam ports are on the front and rear of the heads for manufacturing - 1 head casting, 1 part number, can go on either side of the motor...
Never had any air bound issues, but then again I always drilled a 1/8" hole in my STANT "fail-safe" thermostat.
Hello Michael Mullner, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!
So my 97 Z28 LT1 Camaro had this port on the top of the thermostat worked out great for getting air bubbles out although my o4 Chevy Silverado 5.3 lm7 does not so this after learning my number seven cylinder was giving me problems complete teardown now complete rebuild with BTR stage 3 cam so on so on this is exactly what I needed thank you very very much for your knowledge and input and video appreciate it thanks brother
I know this is a older video but like you mentioned I’m running the dirty dingo spacer kit because I’m using a Ls1 style water pump on my 5.3 truck engine in my Jeep Ls swap
What kind of jeep? I am on the tail end of a 5.3 swap into a YJ
josh hristov 03 Tj the Jeep in my profile picture
Thank you brother.
Starting to do a ly6 turbo swap on my 85 Iroc-z, And all your videos have been a huge help for me.
New to your channel and subscriber now.
Thanks for watching brother. Glad the videos are helping you out! 👍
Appreciate the vid. the first 3 min helped me understand why my coolant flowing properly with my new radiator.
Hello whysopogi, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!
Nice! Very informative. I’ve been looking all over RUclips for a video like this thanks man!
Hello BIGKAT 87, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!
Didnt know those were steam ports, Mine both run directly to my throttle body but it was broken so I just capped both those ports off a few months ago havent had any issues yet but I may look in to this!
Had no idea they were soo important had them capped off at the head because of bad advice , but just tapped my water pump during my cam swap learned alot from your channel thanks for the help 👍
No problem brother. If this or any of the other videos helped you out then thats awesome.👍
Does it matter what size the tap is? I have a 9/16 x 1/4 barb fitting that I want to install but idk if the larger diameter will have drawbacks or benefits
As long as the hose diameter is the same and it’ll fit wherever you tap it, it really doesn’t matter.
Man I so glad I found this video . I have been dealing with over heating problems the whole summer after installing my new radiator with e fans . Now I know what to install
Glad it helped brother. Just remember to follow the proper fill procedure to bleed all the air out when you fill it as well.👍🏻
Bad Luck Garage yes forsure thanks bro
Bruh your videos are getting very informative. Really cool, one day when I want an LS build I got know how.
Hello therpmstandard, Thanks for watching! I appreciate the kind words. Im just trying to help out people with little tips here and there. As for the video quality, I know they arent the best right now but I just got some new editing software so Im going to take some time and learn to use it. Next when I get some free cash will be a camera that stays in focus. LOL. Im new to this you tube thing and getting kinda old so my learning curve is a little steeper than it used to be but I hope with enough research I can start making somewhat decent videos and that people can save themselves some time and money by learning from them.
-Robert
Robert your doing a better job than you think. I mean I am a Ford guy and I tune in to your videos. I do know know a lot about LS engine power but not as much as you do bro. Keep it up. I want a boosted N2O LS swap in something cool one day like an RX7 or perhaps an 80's Porsche 944 etc.
When you decide to make that happen, maybe you should bring it to Knoxville. ;)
I am scared to get you all to tune me an LS. Will be way to much power lol.
I don't know about all that. We do budget stuff around here. 😉
Finally, someone explained it and I actually understand. Neat dude
Thanks for watching! Most people complain that I OVER EXPLAIN things. Lol. If this video helped you then it was worth it to me!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@BadLuckGarage indeed it did. Just fixed a leaky crossover on my lt1 Z28 today. Much appreciated 👍
Great video! It was very informative! I didn't know that Dirty Dingo sold spacers for the water pump. That's one of the issues I was going to run into while trying to use a truck water pump with an LS3 intake.
There is also an eBay company called lsx innovations that sells them in different sizes. Thanks for watching!
Do you need to dissasemble the water pump before drill and tap (metal shavings?)
I’m at this point in my swap and this video was very helpful
Thanks man this video helped alot. Answered all my questions except why you wont shop at home depot. Lol
Where do you have the over flow bottle? I need one for my 1970 cutlass 6.0 LS swap? The car keeps overheating 🥵
I’m doing 5.3 swap in my 70 cutlass supreme if you have any pointers on a good raidiator fan set up for it
Thank you so much for taking your time to explain.. it helped a lot.. also What transmission are you running with it? If it is a LS transmission.. Can you tell me how are you running your speedometer gauge thanks again
Everything project we do on the channel has its own playlist and every step is shown in detail. I’ve hooked up gauges different ways on every swap I’ve done. Some through the stock pcm, some with converter boxes, some I’ve used a Holley dash. All this info you’ll find in the playlists of each project vehicle. I will say I’ve never used factory gauges in any of my swaps. Generally they aren’t accurate and they usually read too low to use once you’ve swapped anyway. As an example, I don’t want an 85mph speedo in a vehicle that’s capable of 160 and I don’t want a tach that redlines at 4500 in a vehicle that revs to 6800. 😉
the steam lines usually rust out under the intake on the older ls engines, that\s the problem we have here in Newfoundland , where it is damp all the time
Thanks for watching! Not sure what a “dome” is though. Lol.
intake
lol, ok that makes more sense. Yes we have issues with them rusting as well. Usually not bad enough that we cant clean them up and repaint them though.
Same here right across the water in cape breton.
Doing knock sensors on my 2000 silverado and noticed the nipple where the hose connects to TB is rusted badly. Previus owner neglected the cooling system. I'm thinking of blocking the rear and buying a billet crossover with bleed for the front.
Awesome Content, My Swap into a 96 Triple Locked Land Cruiser is more Flat than the L94 6.2 Escalade AWD Set Up
I'm running an electric water pump, would it be an issue to run the steam port to my AN adapters? The air would have to travel through the water pump and the thermostat before it gets to the radiator, not sure if that would be a problem
Thanks for taking the time to share this info. I was wondering what to do with mine. 👍
Hello Sean Jhonson! Thanks for watching! I spend a lot of time on LS swap pages and forums so what I try to do is make videos answering the most common questions I see. It’s usually a lot easier to just post a link to a video rather than to type out a four page explaination every time someone asks the same question and with the video they get a more in depth explaination. 👍🏻
Bad Luck Garage THANKS AGAIN! It does save lots of Time and I did subscribe to your page! Awesome info!!
Anytime Sean! And thanks for the sub. 👍🏻
Awesome video, super helpful. I've been needing to learn more about the stem line. I still need to learn a little more about wiring. Haha
Hello Joe Dirt, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!
Just curious wouldn’t you want the steam port line go back to the expansion tank so we’re not putting air back into the cooling system
On 99% of swaps there’s not an expansion tank, just and overflow tank. Two totally different things. And expansion tank such as in most factory LS applications is pressurized and part of the cooling system. An overflow tank is not pressurized and may allow air to re-enter the cooling system if you run the steam line to it. Running the steam port to the radiator directly or to the output line in the water pump pushes the air to the radiator where it can be burped out into the overflow or even straight out of the overflow line in the full neck if an overflow tank isn’t used.
Thanks a ton! I'll be tapping my water pump tomorrow.
Ive been told by my local mechanic that a good flush will eliminate the use of the steam vent he even donated a spare bypass he had laying around and told me that with a good 3 or so flushes I would be good to go. I just want you opinion on that just because he’s so insisting on that I don’t need to do all this
A flush has nothing to do with ridding the system of air . Flushing is done to remove buildup, contaminants, and old coolant. Sounds like either you misunderstood what he was saying, he misunderstood what you were asking, or he has no clue what he's talking about.
AWESOME info on the drill bit and tap sizes!!!
Thanks brother. Glad it helped you out. 👍
Thx....my lower radiator hose wasn't getting flow...replaced thermostat 3 times lol...frustrating. I appreciate it!
Hello FlyByN1te, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!
@@BadLuckGarage right on! I subscribed.👌👍✌
@@51X_D3MON_B49 Thank you sir! Be sure to check out some of the project vehicle playlists!
Is it only ls engines that have this problem or can any v8 have issues with steam build up ?
My theory on the ports it so that you can’t interchange the heads from side to side. 2 port heads can go on either side of the block single ports can’t
The heads are identical. They can be swapped side to side.
@@BadLuckGarage the steam ports will be at the back then
The heads have steam ports drilled on both ends.
@@BadLuckGarage yeah I know that I thought that you said in your video that later models got rid of them. Not just capped them of
@@briansbrain3624 Yea I think you misunderstood brother. They got rid of the 4 port system on the later models. But the ports are still cast into the heads. They just stopped using the 4 port manifold to connect them all.
I swaped my 1965 to a ls and I'm lost is there aftermarket oil pressure sensor I carbrated mine and my msd unit uses my temp sensor to so I'm goin to have to figure that out to
I've been plumbing my steam vent into the radiator lol Thx for the info because I was going to drill and tap the rear steam vent
Yes sir. Nothing wrong with plumbing into radiator. That’s one of the options I mention in the video because that’s how the factory does it. 👍🏻 I just personally prefer the cleaner look of tapping the water pump but any of these methods will work just fine. 😉
@@BadLuckGarage
Cool Thx again and right now it's about less work and more power for my GTO 🤣
Yes sir!!!👍🏻 And thanks for watching!
The water pump is lower than the heads, wouldn't that cause an issue of just releasing the steam and air back into the system?
No
Hey man I have an L92 that my #7 piston broke a piece of it I have read and is it true this steam tube could of been the cause?
Thanks for watching Edgar! I don’t really see how it could. Not connecting the steam line and properly purging the air out of the cooling system can cause air bubbles and therefore hotspots but LS engines are notorious for being lean on the back two cylinders and I honestly have no idea why. I originally thought it had something to do with air distribution but from what I have heard it’s a common issue no matter what I take is used. Just one of those weird rumors that gets passed around on the internet. It does seem that number 7 is usually the one that always ends up popping though. When I decapped my injectors for the turbo build, I ended up with a couple injectors that flowed slightly more than the others and I actually put them on #7 and #8 just as a precaution based on this.
Awesome explanation, thank you! Fellow tennessean.
Well HOWDY! Lol.
What about using the hose next to the upper radiator cap nipple and use like a t brass conector and conect it to the steam line???
Do you take the pump apart before you drill and tap it if not how do you get the shavings out of the pump after drilling it
Thanks for watching Chris! The area you are drilling is right next to the outlet neck. There will be very few shavings that make it inside and those will fall out of the water neck when you flip the pump over. But if you’re a “just in case” type of person, you can also blow some compressed air I. Though the other inlets and outlets for good measure. 👍🏻
-Robert
Thank you for the reply huge help
Yes sir. 👍🏻
👍🏽 clarified, thank you, now I can sleep!
Happy to help!
Maybe theres room on the side of the thermostat to try to drill a eighth inch hole in your thermostat. like on the small and big Chevy. Have motor off keep filling the radiator checking back on it and filling it and filling it and squeeze the top hose some too. That's how I've always done it. And maybe you would not need a steam line. I'm not a LS guy but I know if you get air pockets in it or any thing you can have a mess overheating problem. I do like to run all coolant through the thermostat except a little hole. A lot of guys will run a line from the water pump right into the intake and solid belt drive fans. I don't like that on older cars. And most of the time they overheat in the hottest days of the summer. And I thought you mentioned in one of your videos you don't have an engine fan. I'm guessing you're running a electric fan. If sometime I go to an LS I'd like to run the V belt pulleys and have the March overdrive system. That's what I run now. I just have a whole pile of new V belts from very small to big. I just have the water pump and alternator to turn on my old Camaro.
Jon Smith thanks for watching! thats actually a pretty common modification on LS thermostats as well. 👍🏻
Great info, I was curious about this. Love the info, thanks!
Thank you sir! Glad it helped!😂
Good explination to them. I still prefer the older gen 3 blocks myself for a variety of reasons, most of them being you don't deal with the horrible AFM/DoD junk and have to fool with deleting it, and actually having a throttle cable. I've seen a lot of guys that have had detonation issues and completely dropped a cylinder on the later versions, and it usually always seems to be 5/6/7/8 and rarely the front four. Don't know if it's again, more to do with the horrid DoD tech, or the loss of that rear steam port and heat issues. I just much prefer the run of the mill LQ4/LM7 garden variety LS. Mostly just goes back to KISS, keep it simple, stupid.
The 4 port steam ports aren’t a gen3 or gen4 thing brother. They stopped using them in most applications early in gen3 production.
@@BadLuckGarage Well I'm just a shade tree mechanic and I don't work on the things for a living, so I'll default to your knowledge, but every Gen3 I've touched had the front and rear's knocked out of the head for 4 ports. The LQ4 I'm rebuilding right now out of a 2500HD is the same way, both front and rear's. But like I said, I prefer the old truck engines, easier to work on and not as much dumb tech to "clog the plumbing" so to speak, so that's all I've chose to work on.
Very informative and helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for watching JH! Glad this video helped you out!
Lmao I just have to say. As soon as you said "Bad Luck Garage" I knew this was a place for me, subbing just because.
Well welcome to the family!
@@BadLuckGarage I'm really hoping that if the one hose I have left to replace doesn't fix my leak that it's this and not the rear main seal or freeze plug. Leak is by firewall somewhere.
It could definitely be leaking from one of the rear steam port block offs. It’s fairly common.
Great info ! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Hello Andre Mora, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!
Do you have to have that steam port hooked up? Sorry I’m new to the LS swaps. I just finished my 6.0 LS swap but it keeps overheating? I swapped out a new water pump? But can’t figure out what’s going on? Do you have a overflow reservoir? Maybe the steam vent?
What a great video! One question what is a R drill bit and why is a R bit needed? Why cant you use just a normal bit the size you need?
An "R" bit is .339". If you dont want to use the R bit, the closest thing to it is probably a 21/64 which is .338".
@@BadLuckGarage Thanks good to know
Thank you for showing a pump off the motor so we can see
No problem 👍
R is based on a wire system the reason they suggest r for 1/8 27 is it yields 75% of thread engagement
I know this is an old thread but when you tap the water pump how do you clean out the metal shavings that falls inside of the pump.
Turn it upside down. If you’re drilling right next to the outlet as I suggested then most of the shavings will just fall out and you can blow compressed air into the engine side of the pump while still holding it upside down to blow the rest out.
You put antifreeze with cap in or cap out in the radiator thru top radiator water house?
Doesn't matter but when you're finished then you'll be filling the radiator afterward so might as well leave it off.
@@BadLuckGarage ok thanks
anytime brother 👍
Great info that is easily understood. I’m swapping in a 5.3 into a Jeep Scrambler. Can I ask two side questions? Where did you get the upper radiator hose and did you make the air box? Both look exactly like what I need. Thanks again for helping us out. Ryan
Upper hose is just a stock 99-07 Silverado hose. And there is an entire playlist in the channel showing how to make the air box.
I don’t get it but yes the line goes to the engine next to is another line the the ends in the back off your alternator this the line you used to bleed your coolant. But the big hose you see on top of your engine that’s were you add a part the has the screw to bleed coolant and one side is clear for you to see the flow of your coolant.
I have absolutely no idea what you’re asking.
I'm hoping this what's wrong with my ls not a head gasket I run a swirl pot but still some times get a little coolant out the radiator cap I'm not sure the swirl pot might be the issue I have a head ake
Is there a reason why you used a tapered drill bit thanks
The drill bit isn’t tapered, the tap is. I misspoke and by the time I figured it out the video already had like 40,000 views so I said hell with it. Most people understood what I meant anyway. 🤣
This may be dumb but the back two ports are blocked off and there is a steam like that connects the front two ports... do i still need to run it to the radiator/ cooling system or should i be fine
This is covered in the video.
@@BadLuckGarage yes sorry forgot to delete
@@franciscoc2524 you’re good brother. I’m horrible about commenting halfway through videos too. Lol. 🤣👍
Can you plumb the line right into your expansion tank?
I suppose you probably could but be sure that it stays lower than the coolant level in the tank to prevent reversion from pulling air back into the engine. Not sure if that would happen but wouldn't be good if it did. I prefer the water pump method just because its clean and eliminates extra hoses from the engine bay.
Any chance of just taking off the thermostat housing and taping into that for the steam Port? Is that ok?
On an LS engine the thermostat is on the inlet side of the cooling system. So you would essentially be taking the air/steam pockets and pumping them right back into the engine. Pretty much defeating the entire purpose of the steam vents.
I appreciate your videos, this isn't a ball bust. R is not tapered .
Thanks for watching. I misspoke a bit in the video. No the bit is not tapered. The tap however is and thus your taped hole will be when you finish tapping it. This is why you don’t want to to go too deep with the tap. If you do, your fitting will bottom out and will not seal properly.
Hello friend.. can you tell me where the
throttle body Coolant line connect to.
That will be the steam line .. that you talking about can you please let me know thank you for your time
Great video sir!! Very helpful.
Hello BobWilson84, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!
Thinking about swapping an LS in my 05 Dodge Magnum that came with the worst 2.7 V6 in the world! Any thoughts about that? Saw a guy on RUclips do it by running both ECM’s factory and GM together for everything to work...
I say go for it. I can’t really offer any information specific to that exact swap as I’ve never done that specific swap. But I’m sure plenty of people have at this point so some google searching will most likely find all the info you need.
There is literally like rust crumbs in the start of my steam line on the right side from where it first comes out of my throttle body and I honestly have no clue on what to do
Either clean them or just bypass the throttlebody altogether like I’ve shown in previous videos. None of the vehicles you see us swapping on this channel have the steam line running through the valve body anymore. Even the factory LS equipped vehicles on the channel like the Chinavette and the Abby have all had the throttlebody bypassed. I’ve probably shown that process in at least 12 different videos. Lol
I have a leak I can't figure out where it's coming from, but it only comes out after the engine cools (unless it's evaporating off a hot engine). I wonder if it's my steam lines.
Could be depending on where it seems to be coming from. It’s fairly common for the oRing style blockoffs to leak where they bolt to the head. So if it appears to be coming from the corner of the block thats the first place I’d check.
Excellent explanation
Hello asicerik, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!
Right on! Us old skool chevy guys need this lesson. 🤙👍
So what you're saying is that block off the rear steam ports on my LS1 then? Or is that still not recommended?
No sir that’s not at all what I’m saying. What I’m saying is stick with what you have in most cases. However, as with anything there are always exceptions to the rule. If you’re doing a really high HP build then it may be worth it to do a four corner setup. Another example where a four corner would be a good idea in my opinion is if you’re building an engine for something like a rock crawler where the engine may be ran hard at extreme angles for long periods of time. But for a mild build or a stock-ish application, I would just use whatever your donor engine came equipped with.
On the trick flow kit TFS-306S0601 they don’t tap into any water pump or hose they just connect all 4 ports together. What’s the deal? Does it not have to connect back to radiation
Not sure. That seems completely pointless to me other than just having a way to burp all four corners easily during fill. That’s essentially just blocking off the ports which could be done with four factory block offs instead and not have all the extra lines running around. Like I said, the only reason I could see to use that kit is it would allow you to loosen one line while filling the coolant to burp the system or maybe allow the air to gather at a central point to burp it easily from time to time on a racing engine where you’re contantly changing fluids.
Thanks. It's there a trick to drilling the water pump while in the vehicle or do i need to drain the coolant and get into the outlet nipple with a shop vac?
Also, my steam lines go to the bottom of my throttle body. What to do about that? 2005 CTS-V with ls6 3 bolt throttle.
Honestly the pumps are so easy to remove on an LS engine and the gaskets are reusable so I suggest just removing it and not taking a chance of getting shavings where they don’t belong.
awsome vid.. i got the information i needed ofr doing my ls swap. question. what engine cover is that. looks good!
Glad this video helped you out brother!! These are Denali engine covers. There are also variations of these same covers that came on Escalades. 👍🏻
Where DoD you get your top radiator hose? It looked like it was formed for the ls in your c10?
99-up V8 Silverado.
Can I use my stock radiator form my 94 Chevy when I’m doing my ls swap or do I need one newer for a ls?
As long as it’s in good shape, yes, absolutely. Every swap on this channel except the DR Nova has started off with a stock radiator and cooler just fine.
I just took two steam lines from truck LS engines and combined them to make a cheap 4 corner kit
That works if you really need all four. 👍🏻
What do you think about the people that tap the steam lines into the top of the water? Still does what it’s supposed too?
Nvm I’m still watching and i see that’s how you run it
But if you can what’s the bit size and tap size?
Everything is covered in the video
probably a "not so smart" question, but do I need to remove the waterpump before tapping? Or can I tap with installed? Concerned with the shavings entering the cooling system.
Also, Great Video!!
I would prefer to do it off the engine and blow it out after with compressed air. That being said I have been known to drill and tap heads for 3/8 coolant temp sensors while they’re still in the engine so I really can’t say much. Just use a lot of grease on the drill bit and the tap to catch shavings if you chose to do it on the engine. There really isn’t much that some small shavings could hurt in your cooling system anyway to be honest. They should pass right through the pump and worst case scenario is maybe the thermostat gets stuck barely cracked open on one BUT as easy as the pump is to remove I’d just do it off the engine.
@@BadLuckGarage thanks for the knowledge. I just got my front end assembly installed and was hoping to not have to go back into it. Gonna think on it for a while. Thanks again for the knowledge and quick response. Just got yourself a new subscriber!!
Glad to help brother. If you know anyone else who could benefit from this or any of my other videos be sure to share! And thanks for the sub. 👍🏻
I have ls1 water pump on my 5.3 but I have a spacer to space it out to truck accessories but I have a steam port on the spacer which goes directly to the steam lines so I can just fill it through the radiator right?
no
Bad Luck Garage ok so how would I go about filling it back up?
@@cristianh8 I explain that in the first 3 minutes of the video. start at the 2:00 mark
That explains why I had overheating problems last year
It’s a possibility. Air pockets in the system will cause serious issues. Make sure you follow the procedure to remove air while filling and you’ll usually be good. 👍🏻
So if you are not using the heater core ports out of the side of the water pump you and drill and tap them and cap one and use the other for the steam vents as well right?
Hey Doug, thanks for watching! I’ve seen people plumb it to the heater outlets but my problem with that is that neither of those outlets pumps the coolant to the radiator. In my opinion, in order for the steam vent system to function the way it was intended, it should be plumbed into one of the areas mentioned in the video so that any trapped air makes it way straight to the radiator where it can be purged out through the overflow system instead of being pumped back into the engine.
Bad Luck Garage. Thanks for the fast response. This is gonna help me with my issue. Thanks again have a good day
Doug Watson you too brother.
I have a early model 5.3 with the steam ports in the front and back i noticed it had the extra port to go to the throttle body, i swapped a tbss intake and 4 bolt dbc throttle body. Can i just plumb both front and back to crossover to eachother? Or should i oem replace and cap off the original lines
You should run it as explained in the video.
Awesome video, just subscribed. I do have one question... after drilling a hole in the water pump, are you running a tap to thread, or are those fittings self tapping and you're just sending that sucker home?
14:32
@@BadLuckGarage thanks man... not sure how I missed that.
It happens brother. 🤣👍
Good info that’s what I needed
Glad to hear that brother. 👍🏻
Hey buddy .this helped a ton ..!!! I still have a question or 2 if u have time to help me .I'm desperate and I think I'm mightva damaged my motor by not bleeding truck right...I had a leak and lost a bit of coolant .and I filled truck back up. I keep notcieing now later it's using a little water and steam comeing out my new dual exhaust..but I have big air bubbles in top line. All still stock coolant system in my 04 ext cab Silverado 5.3 .wondering if truck is supposed to bleed itself or if I'm supposed to..and can't find vids that actually show ya how to just bleed my factory truck...so I ran and cracked steam line loose and water came out .took top rad line off..it poured water out..so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong .lol ..I just need to get it filled and air out..and make sure it's ok.i can explain more if could talk or something .this just a run down ..I'm lost now and getting upset cuz I can't figure out what I'm supposed to do ....I don't think my temp on dash has ever went above 190 or whatever .bit I know and can fill air in top line .and it's alot..so I've squeezed line while warm and running hoping to squeeze air out .I've pull steam line loose while running. .no air .Just water. But I'm sure im missing something .so if u can. Pleasssssse help me out lol .tryin to keep our one family truck going and hell..mightva already blown it .but this all me and my family has and no way of getting fixed except my my disabled ass lol..so any help will be a god send!.TKS and God bless ya for explaining what u did on here!!:):)
If it’s using coolant and you think it’s burning out the exhaust, the first think I would do is pressure check the coolant system. You can usually borrow the tool from any auto parts store and you’ll get your deposit back when you return it. It certainly sounds like you may have a head gasket leaking from your description. But of course diagnosing problems over the internet is kinda hit and miss. I would start with the pressure check and go from there. As for the fill procedure I use, generally what I do is disconnect the top hose at the radiator and disconnect the steam line at the radiator as well. Then fill the engine with coolant through the top hose until I see it coming out of the steam line. Next reconnect the steam line to the radiator and top the radiator off as best you can. Then pour WATER into the top hose till it’s completely full. Then quickly stick the top hose back into the radiator and tighten the clamp. I say use water specifically because you WILL spill some before you get it back on the radiator and you don’t want to dump coolant all over the ground. After that, top off your coolant tank to the full cold mark and drive it till it gets to temp so it starts circulating coolant. Drive it for about ten minutes after that then top off the coolant tank if it has dropped and your done. The real question here is did it get hot and blow a head gasket because it had air pockets, or was it getting hot and low in coolant because the head gasket was already blown or was there another issue such as a stuck thermostat that caused it to get hot in the first place? If you pressure check it and it checks out ok, then follow the fill procedure I just gave you. If it’s still running hot and losing coolant after that then you need to look for leaks elsewhere. Water pump is a usual culprit especially if the truck sag for a long time without being driven. The important thing is to not panic and break it down step by step and eliminate possible problems one at a time so it’s not overwhelming. 👍🏻
Thank you so much for your help something I've noticed is that my truck doesn't warm up to about the halfway mark if I turn the heater on ..and I keep noticing I'm getting air sucking in whenever I open the resevoir cap..since I have no radiator cap. and then the water flows up to the top of the reservoir.. ..but yes from the moment I start the truck until I stop it I'm getting sting buildup on my tires and see steam coming out of my pipe constantly...but my truck has not overheated once but it keeps on the heating up to the halfway point..I parked the truck with the front way up in the air on the driveway to try and let the water back down and got it filled but now when I unscrew the cap the air sucks in real quick and pushes the water out of the top of the reservoir...but I can tell that my top radiator line is full of air now but I just got done filling it at my house and then drove it to my mom's house and parked it back up in the air and now it's gushing water out the reservoir again..but it has yet to show overheating on the gauge once but I'm wondering if maybe my gauges wrong now...never had a problem before.. the truck is at a hundred and sixty thousand Miles though and I did have a converter to come loose on me and just had all that cut off and dual exhaust ran but now I'm getting steam.. I know I had a coolant leak a couple years ago and I've been fighting with trying to get the coolant tops back off ever since then it seemed like... I thought the hole in water pump was leaking. But it was bottom reservoir hose..I just wasn't sure if my truck was supposed to bleed itself or what..after it sat for about six months with me starting it every now and then waiting for$$ the converter fix to dual exhaust I kept running and checking it . But after the dual exhaust fix now I'm getting steam. And it's been a month straight...of checking water.losing water .when driveing .but not from water pump..best I can tell..so guessing intakes gasket won't fix this ?.like on some chevys .... I know I'm getting an code now .for the evacuator plug on top of the intake whatever that thing is with the hose that goes to the back of the intake .since the cats r gonei was thinking maybe something to do with that.?...or can I delete the EVAP sensor thing and EGR since I deleted the cats and back O2 sensors too ?.before I have the computer reprogrammed .I noticed there's plugs to block off those two things but I didn't know if those were for my factory truck after its reprogrammed or for ls modified conversions kinda things..and yes thank you I'm trying not to panic I just didn't know how the water system worked in this truck and all I keep getting are these conversions videos ..lol..but I'll try what you said to do again I wasn't pulling the steam line from rad .I was undering it from the block and letting it leak out. okay so I should Park this on a hill and then try and get as much water in both of those pipes as possible and then run it up to temperature? And then what again?.just check it from the reservoir cuz when I crack that open usually the water moves up to the top now all of a sudden...so just fyi..and thank u so much for ur help...I'm trying not to get upset here and overwhelmed but if its head gaskets I'm screwed cuz I can't do this kind of work anymore with my back and disabltys ugh..I have babied this thing since I got it and always took very good care of it ..since I got it with 20k on it ..now 157k..:''(( ..gonna suck if that's what it is .but sounding like blown head gasket more and more go me .just wanted someone that knows better to tell me ..I know hard to diagnose on net..but I think we already know..lol..:''''(..can't afford this stuff lol...I was hoping to save up for pushrods and lifters here soon and replace the head gasket when it was needed but now I'm going to have to do it regardless and then save up for the parts and then fix it again sounds like ..man this sucks .lol..hey thanks again .and anymore info will be great.!!:):)I really appreciate it a ton!!.
also I saw one video of course I'm not sure if I'm doing this right but with the truck running and the reservoir cap off I keep squeezing the bottom line and the top line hoping to get some of the air out of the lines....and when I squeeze the top line I noticed that I can hear a tink tink tink tink sound...So I was assuming that was the thermostat making that sound..I just don't know if I'm supposed to be trying to get the air out of this thing with the reservoir cap on or off I don't know if I'm making it worse or any better...I was hoping pouring water in the reservoir and then parking it on the hill would make a difference but it didn't really seem to help any... My luck I need a water pump to but I just can't tell .what to do first. and I'm assuming with the pressure checker that if it leaks off then it's got a blown gasket?..you just put that thing on with the engine off? And then if it doesn't hold pressure it's got a blown head?..never used one before....I'm pretty sure it's a head gasket because I let it run for about two hours straight and just saturated the entire driveway with water but it was just in steam form but it eventually built up on my tires but I was trying to watch the temp gauge and it never went above right below 210...like usual...but when I turn the heater on it drops down to the halfway mark and it doesn't go back up unless I'm driving it...weird..but when it does go up to full temperature I jump out and squeeze the lines to try and milk the air out of them and they don't feel any hotter than normal.. and when I drove it it wasn't like it was hot outside or anyting hell it was almost freezing...lol..so..just lost here .lol..trying to give as much info to help u help me ..lol..TKS so much for the info...I really need the help here. Lol.and seems like everyone has a fix and that's what got me here .lol..seems like u know so I'm trusting u only at this point .lol... I was just about to cut my radiator line and put that hack in so can bleed air ..but assuming I don't need it .being factory setup still lol...so TKS again .and I'll watch for next reply..tk u tk u tk u
Can theses places on the water pump be used for temp gauge?
Yes but it won’t be as accurate as putting them in the head. I’m guessing your new to the channel but I have several builds with videos showing me enlarging the port that’s already there on the passenger side head and tapping it for a 3/8npt fitting. I do this to every engine to allow a place to run a temp sensor for factory gauges or for a fan switch. Only takes 5 minutes and will give you the most accurate readings.
Thanks
@@kenwood7095 No problem brother. 👍
Thanks for this video!
Thank YOU for watching! Glad this video helped you out!
lol i fell so dumb. . .I was going to get a new radiator because of this vent thing lol THANK YOU!
You shouldn't feel dumb. You should feel smart for researching and figuring out what you need to do brother.👍
Only issue with the newer ones would be in wakeboarding boats that face backwards
yea I’m guessing the engineers at GM probably didnt account for that. 😂 Of course in a marine application isn’t the coolant system open anyway? I mean I’m not a boat guy but don’t most boats just circulate water from the lake or whatever through the engine? If this is the case then pressurized steam pockets shouldn’t really be an issue anyway. 🤔
Bad Luck Garage not all boats are open circuit
Like I said, not really a boat guy but same principles apply. Wherever the highest point on the engine side of the cooling system is should be vented.
If i use a vacuum refill Sistem, will i still have steam issues?
If you have vacuum fill machine you shouldn’t have any trapped air if done properly. I’d still recommend running the steam line but I know several people that get away without it.
@@BadLuckGarage ok man im going to do get an aluminum radiator and have a fitting install on top of the radiator close to the filler cap just to make sure steam gets to the top of the radiator
Thanks for the info i appreciate it
Originally the LS1's were designed for reverse flow water pumps, but with GM not wanting to pay the licensing fee for the technology they cooled the motors conventionally not reverse flow.
Interesting theory, but GM was already using reverse flow cooling on the LT1 engine that the LS1 replaced, so im not sure why it would have been considered new technology in need of licensing.
GM only paid for the LT1/4 and GM Did their own deal with the LS1 and were sued and then went back to the conventional cooling. The 1998 Pontiac Firebird catalog actually advertises the reverse cooling in the new LS1.
Interesting. I’ve never heard that before. 👍🏻
You got my interest peaked brother so I checked it out. Looks like they were sued over the reverse cooling of the LT1 back in 94 but the case was thrown out. At least that’s all I could find. Didn’t find anything about the LS. 🤔 I really would like to read more about this though.
Great information !!!
Glad this video helped you out brother. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Did you use taflon tape?
Way back then I probably did. Now days I recommend using Hercules tape. You can get it at Lowe’s and it’s resilient to just about all liquids, even gasoline.
Does it help with increasing your E.T or help with hp?
This is not a performance modification. It’s a required part of the cooling system installed by GM and it’s purpose is explained in the video.
I know this is an older video. But why does the front steam line bleed into to throttle body by a vacuum line.
It doesnt pass through the throttle body by a vacuum line. It flows through a small cavity in the throttle body to warm it up. If you don’t live in a cold climate you can bypass it.
@@BadLuckGarage nice. Cleared up alot.