Round of applause and thank you! This has been the best instructional yet on reworking a harness. As it was said before me,I feel can do this and save myself some money on buying a stand alone. 👊✌
Thanks again Will. I"ll figure out what circuits are not necessary for my 6.0 swap situation and get busy and find a stock fuse block for my application. Very helpful to get wires release their homes.
Excellent video! I’ve been on the fence about doing an LS swap on my 1970 Firebird, now that I’ve seen your video, I feel much more confident with the electrical part. Good stuff🤙🏽🤙🏽
Hey Have seen lots of videos. I have done 2 harness a different way. I think I will do this for my next one. You did an excellent job. I appreciate you. thanks for sharing.
You should be using wire loom tape. Its got a fabric backing instead of plastic and the glue does not make a sticky mess if you have to take it apart in the future.
Awesome, it's really simple, I don't know why more people don't do it this way. There's nothing wrong with pinouts and chopping the harness on a bench, this is just faster and less prone to screw a wire up.
That's a great idea using a Seam Ripper to cut the tape. Most even have the little protective ball of plastic on the very tip which would protect the wires. I'll have to try it out.
The engine harness is simple because it only has connectors for engine related sensors & one that connects the the PCM. It's the other harness(the one that distributes power that can be difficult if you don't take your time & familiarize yourself with it.
The other harness that you mentioned is likely the power distribution harness, which distributes power to various electrical components of the vehicle 3. This harness can be difficult to work with if you are not familiar with it. It is important to take your time and understand how it works before attempting any repairs or modifications.
While a lot of your video and information was very useful and good information, there's a few things you don't wanna do. The main thing is do not bend your wires over like you did in the bulky areas. There's several reasons why but the main is you're weakening the wire when you do that and are just creating future problems for yourself and making it a pain in the ass to troubleshoot those problems.
It's not an ideal situation (this is a budget harness after all), but, I've taken apart plenty of OEM harnesses that have folded wires from the factory, GM has been doing it at least since the 80's. I still drive cars I folded wires on 20+ years ago, no issues. With quality stranded solid copper TXL, SXL or GXL wire I don't think it's a concern. CCA wire, sure, that stuffs garbage.
Lifted it up and took it close to my torch. All most got out under the load? Set it all back on the ground. High heat,flex Plat bolts came loose then!Magic!
Great video Wil ! Could u b so kind as too explain ur fuel source. Wat u used and how u hooked it up. I didn't c any thing on the run stand. That wud make a great video along with ur dash panel with key start and mechanical gauges. sum of us newbies r not very bright.....lol
Fuel source for the run stand is pretty basic. It's a metal 1 gallon paint can with a stock fuel pump from a truck in it. Two 6an bulkhead fittings installed in the lid, then 6an line ran to the fuel rail (pressure regulator on stock rail). There's a relay that powers the pump that's just controlled from the key-on position. It's the same setup that would work on a vehicle, just using a paint can instead of a gas tank.
Great video. The only thing I'd do differently is that I would not tape the wires up tight, because the shortest wire in the bundle will get all of the tension and over time it could fail and cause issues that will be very difficult to diagnose.
MAF, MAP, Cam, Crankshaft, Temperature, TPS, O2's, and Knock sensors are the ones you need. The oil pressure and oil level sensors usually just run to the BCM/Dash and not the engine computer.
They usually aren't 100% necessary. I've done swaps where I bypassed them completely and didn't have issues. But I usually connect them so the computers happy with fuel pump relay control and other items.
I feel dumb when it comes to swap wiring How do you go about getting power to the cars harness Wanting to swap my z, but I’d like to keep all factory functions. Like lights and turn signals.
You'd be surprised, I've helped a bunch of 70 and 80 yr old's with their swaps. Once you realize the wires are just doing the same thing as the mechanical parts did before, it's easy.
@@wilsworkshop You know what, now that I think about it, you are right man. If ya don't learn something new every day, you may as well just going backwards.
First of all....love your videos, clean and simple and detailed! I have a question for you, I am doing an s10 like you done on another video, my question is I am wanting to use my current gauges and try to keep everything factory per say. Do I need to use the fuse box from my swap or can I use my fuse box from my s10. If I use my s10 fuse box I assume I would need to repin the other connectors to match the swap ECU?
You can use both fuse blocks, I never removed the stock S10 one, it ran the lights, gauges, etc.. I installed a separate fuse block just for the engine/trans swap.
For something that new I'm not sure, I mainly just mess with older engines. If you can't find one online you may need to get a Haynes or Chilton's manual that includes the wiring diagrams and make your own cheat sheet. Sounds like a fun project !
I sure wish youd said/having said that/ever few seconds/ also,Too bad you didnt have some music going that I've never herd before, And,your hands are dirty. Having said that,You did a good video!
If I have the harness, computer, and fuse block from the car that the engine came from do I have to do anything to the computer? Will the check engine light wire give me a check light if I don't have all the extra abs, stablittrac and air bag crap connected?
So I would need obviously the engine, engine wiring harness ECU for that engine and the BCM (body control module)? Can you explain why I would need the BCM? I don't intend on installing any of the airbags, traction control or anti lock brakes (although the anti lock brakes would be great) why would BCM be necessary? No other video showing a LS swap has said anything about BCM.@@wilsworkshop
It depends on your gauges. There isn't an easy answer since everyone's swap is different. This video just covers the wiring needed for the engine/transmission to run.
This video is giving me the courage to do my own standalone for my next swap. One question you may know....previous harness I bought for my 79 swap Blazer had 2 wires marked "check engine light" and I'd like to connect it to the stock dash. Can I assume one is power to the light, and the other ground?
On the driver side head in the back is where all the grounds junction together. I had to cut the black wire on the LH coil plug to feed the other wired around it. There are 2 junctions wherw grounds combine. I lost track on where the coil harness went. Can i just combine all the grounds together?
Yep you can combine all the grounds. I often extend and re-route them to the front of the heads in swaps if there's no firewall clearance for me to fit my hand back there and everything works fine.
I have a 08 Colorado...5 cyl...I don't like the 5 cyl...so I have one 4.8 L...06 chevy express engine...and a 6.0 engine...also. I heard that they both can work in a swap...I have never done one b4...but I'm up for it...can a 4L80E trans work with this?
It might be a dumb question or its been asked but how do I know what I don't need?. Like the evap and what not for sure. How do I mechanically remove that stuff?.thanks in advance.
You can buy an aftermarket fuse and relay block and wire it in. I've used some of the $15 ones off ebay that have at least 4 fuses and 2 relays to rework stock harnesses. Something like this : www.ebay.com/itm/203652877070?hash=item2f6aa84b0e:g:sNoAAOSwzU1haUQw
Is there enough wire from the fuse box and CPU to be able to relocate them into the cab? I`m thinking of a 1948-53 chev truck with not a whole lotta room under the hood to hide stuff.
Most of the wires are too short on the driver side to pass the harness thru the firewall. The best option for that is to buy an extended aftermarket harness.
So I have a 6.0 ls out a 2005 h2 hummer that I bought but didn't come with fuse box ,can I use one from another ls engine or other year or does it have to be especially from that year and model?
If it's for an engine swap, you can just use any Gen 3 wiring harness that matches the throttle body you plan to use. The engine itself is the same as the Sierra, Silverado, Yukon, etc.. from 2003-2006.
I don't have enough experience with the newer engines to really offer any advice on them. If you go on the HPTuners forums you should be able to find out why someone suggested that route. There could be tuning limitations in the newer PCM's.
Wow.... I've stayed away from something like this cause of the harness. It always seemed intimidating the wire harness anyway. So I've always been a carb guy. Can I use the factory computer or do I have to have this stand alone computer u talk about ? Thanks
The standalone I mentioned is just a factory computer with the Vehicle Anti Theft (VATS) disabled so it will run in an engine swapped car. Normally the engine computer needs to talk to the Body Control Module to turn VATS off and start the engine, but a swap won't normally use a BCM so it needs to be disabled in the tune.
On my test stand I have a fuel pump wired on a separate relay that's activated by key-on power. You can use the stock relay and fuse for the fuel pump on the stock fuse block. The computer will activate the relay for 4 seconds when the key is first on to prime the system, then on during crank and run.
![LS Swap VATS removal using free programs PCM Hammer & Universal Patcher!!!!! [Full Tutorial] Ep.#1](/img/1.gif)
I've built several harnesses and I've never thought to do it this way. This is genius
Glad ya liked it
Does that work o MN av6 votteck replacing a 4 cyl s10?
@@wilsworkshop *k km, ]]⁹
What a F#%&nd mess
There’s people like me with no patience whatsoever
Good Job. Simplicity and Common Sense is always best.
Dude, you literally just made me believe I can do this myself! You’re the man! Thank you for this video
You can do it!
😂
You are the man ♂️
Round of applause and thank you! This has been the best instructional yet on reworking a harness. As it was said before me,I feel can do this and save myself some money on buying a stand alone. 👊✌
Glad it helped!
U said it best thanks
Yes it's good
Looks more easier
Thanks again Will. I"ll figure out what circuits are not necessary for my 6.0 swap situation and get busy and find a stock fuse block for my application. Very helpful to get wires release their homes.
Thank you so much, I'm building a 5.3 Porsche 944 and I'm trying to save money as much as possible. I will be using this as a resource! Thank you!
I love the fact you went right to the project. Very good info, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video! I’ve been on the fence about doing an LS swap on my 1970 Firebird, now that I’ve seen your video, I feel much more confident with the electrical part. Good stuff🤙🏽🤙🏽
It can be a little overwhelming at first, but once you get the parts and just do 1 wire at a time, it's actually pretty easy.
@@wilsworkshop i just picked up a complete harness,computer,and fuse block! gonna pick up the 4Le60e from the same suv tommorow.
Hey Have seen lots of videos. I have done 2 harness a different way. I think I will do this for my next one. You did an excellent job. I appreciate you. thanks for sharing.
Glad it helped
Thank you, it’s so simple the way you described it.
Glad it was helpful!
bravo! my confidence just grew 100%!!! thank you looking forward to my project now!!
You got this!
You should be using wire loom tape. Its got a fabric backing instead of plastic and the glue does not make a sticky mess if you have to take it apart in the future.
Sticky wiring is my fetish. Also, I'm really cheap and that fancy cloth tape is like $10 a roll or something.
It's called Tesa tape
I must have gotten some really
low quality Tesa tape because mine still made for a sticky mess 2 years later.
I’ve seen a lot of videos but this one .....this man is Awesome...
Thanks for watching
I just finished mine... first start right up wow so simple but I cut myself with the razor blade on my finger it’s pretty bad..Well worth it
Awesome, it's really simple, I don't know why more people don't do it this way. There's nothing wrong with pinouts and chopping the harness on a bench, this is just faster and less prone to screw a wire up.
Genius about doing the harness on the engine. I use a tool to cut the tape etc that a seamstress would use to take apart threads on a pair of pants.
That's a great idea using a Seam Ripper to cut the tape. Most even have the little protective ball of plastic on the very tip which would protect the wires. I'll have to try it out.
The seamripper works amazing for opening up harnesses without damaging wiring. Get a couple, they're cheap and don't last forever.
Amazing job señor , hands down for you , salute) thanks for the info , now I just gained more trust on how to do my new project involving my neon !
Great to hear!
The engine harness is simple because it only has connectors for engine related sensors & one that connects the the PCM. It's the other harness(the one that distributes power that can be difficult if you don't take your time & familiarize yourself with it.
The other harness that you mentioned is likely the power distribution harness, which distributes power to various electrical components of the vehicle 3. This harness can be difficult to work with if you are not familiar with it. It is important to take your time and understand how it works before attempting any repairs or modifications.
Thanks you give me confidence to attempt my project truck.
Go for it!
Great Job I am impressed thankyou for posting
Thank you too!
While a lot of your video and information was very useful and good information, there's a few things you don't wanna do. The main thing is do not bend your wires over like you did in the bulky areas. There's several reasons why but the main is you're weakening the wire when you do that and are just creating future problems for yourself and making it a pain in the ass to troubleshoot those problems.
It's not an ideal situation (this is a budget harness after all), but, I've taken apart plenty of OEM harnesses that have folded wires from the factory, GM has been doing it at least since the 80's. I still drive cars I folded wires on 20+ years ago, no issues. With quality stranded solid copper TXL, SXL or GXL wire I don't think it's a concern. CCA wire, sure, that stuffs garbage.
It is a wire, not a garden hose. Like to know where you got that bit of information.
The best simple video I've seen to date been looking for a simple way just made my day thanks
Glad it helped
@@wilsworkshop hello would there a problem with using shrink wrap instead of loom?
You made it look easy,I thank you!!!
You can do it!
You made this understandable! My goodness I can do it !!! Thanks bro!
You can do it!
Can you make a video building your test stand? Great video!
Thanks,getting closer.
It's out and on the ground.
Flex bolts next !!!!!
You'll get it, one step at a time!
Lifted it up and took it close to my torch.
All most got out under the load?
Set it all back on the ground.
High heat,flex Plat bolts came loose then!Magic!
Oh yeah.
Disconnect the cam sensor wire before that last flex Plat bolt.SNAP!!
Thank u for take the time out of your day👍🏾👍🏾🤟🏾🤟🏾
Any time
Your good thank u it my first time doing this watch a lot of videos ur the best one
That's exactly what I was thinking to do conect evrethin and remove whatever wiring left 👍
Right on
Man that was a awesome video! Made perfect sense, and not rocket appliance either!!
Glad you liked it!
Great video Wil !
Could u b so kind as too explain ur fuel source. Wat u used and how u hooked it up.
I didn't c any thing on the run stand. That wud make a great video along with ur dash panel with key start and mechanical gauges. sum of us newbies r not very bright.....lol
Fuel source for the run stand is pretty basic. It's a metal 1 gallon paint can with a stock fuel pump from a truck in it. Two 6an bulkhead fittings installed in the lid, then 6an line ran to the fuel rail (pressure regulator on stock rail). There's a relay that powers the pump that's just controlled from the key-on position. It's the same setup that would work on a vehicle, just using a paint can instead of a gas tank.
Does this mean the fuel pump is just always running? Or does it only run when pressure is needed? (Does it sense that by itself?)
@@Slowtrickdotcomseems as if its always running
Dude you might have just changed my mind on doing this
Sweet !
The best video I ever seen
The best comment I ever seen !
I appreciate this video so much man! Thank you!!
HEROOOOO, Thanks for such a informative video. Great job my dude!!
Any time!
Very helpful stuff! Thank you!
Great video! You made it easy!
Glad it helped!
Badass!!! Thanks for the info!!! Very useful video!!
Glad it was helpful!
I was so distracted by the snot whistle 😂
Cleaned up nicely.
Q: Do you see these comments on older videos?
Murph
Great video. The only thing I'd do differently is that I would not tape the wires up tight, because the shortest wire in the bundle will get all of the tension and over time it could fail and cause issues that will be very difficult to diagnose.
New subscriber!!!🔥🔥🔥
Welcome!!
Good work! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Wow that's interesting!
How do you flash computer ?
Great video thanks !
Glad you liked it!
Thanks so much. At last I understand.
Glad it helped!
Awesome thanks brother
No problem 👍
Great video very informative straight to the point do you know of where I can find out exactly wich sensor I need to keep thank you
MAF, MAP, Cam, Crankshaft, Temperature, TPS, O2's, and Knock sensors are the ones you need.
The oil pressure and oil level sensors usually just run to the BCM/Dash and not the engine computer.
@@wilsworkshop thank you I really appreciate it.another quick question are the plugs for the neutral safety switch needed thx again
They usually aren't 100% necessary. I've done swaps where I bypassed them completely and didn't have issues. But I usually connect them so the computers happy with fuel pump relay control and other items.
I feel dumb when it comes to swap wiring
How do you go about getting power to the cars harness
Wanting to swap my z, but I’d like to keep all factory functions. Like lights and turn signals.
The lights, turn signals, etc.. should work before the swap, just don't remove any of that wiring and it will work after the swap.
Great video!!! Thank you sir!!!!
Glad you liked it!
Great video man
I’m an electrician by trade so I feel 100 percent more confident in doing the swap
Easy way...psi conversion or bp automotive..and another company speartech.
Yep, they all work fine, I've used all 3 brands. For a budget build I don't mind a couple hours work to save $500.
@@wilsworkshop
Not too mention its all new wiring and connectors..😎👊🏻
I think that the old timers old schoolers would look at this and throw there hands in the air and say "it ain't worth it"..........
You'd be surprised, I've helped a bunch of 70 and 80 yr old's with their swaps. Once you realize the wires are just doing the same thing as the mechanical parts did before, it's easy.
@@wilsworkshop You know what, now that I think about it, you are right man.
If ya don't learn something new every day, you may as well just going backwards.
First of all....love your videos, clean and simple and detailed! I have a question for you, I am doing an s10 like you done on another video, my question is I am wanting to use my current gauges and try to keep everything factory per say. Do I need to use the fuse box from my swap or can I use my fuse box from my s10. If I use my s10 fuse box I assume I would need to repin the other connectors to match the swap ECU?
You can use both fuse blocks, I never removed the stock S10 one, it ran the lights, gauges, etc.. I installed a separate fuse block just for the engine/trans swap.
Well done
Thanks
Thank you kind sir!
Very welcome!
im definition just cutting the connector and dipping the end of the wire in liquid electrical tape 😂
Thanks Wil. You make it look simple.
I have a 15 LV3 with factory harness and I want to use the FPCM. Where can I find pinouts?
For something that new I'm not sure, I mainly just mess with older engines. If you can't find one online you may need to get a Haynes or Chilton's manual that includes the wiring diagrams and make your own cheat sheet. Sounds like a fun project !
I sure wish youd said/having said that/ever few seconds/ also,Too bad you didnt have some music going that I've never herd before,
And,your hands are dirty.
Having said that,You did a good video!
Dirty is my hands natural state, possibly their preferred pronoun also.
Great job what computer used and how much did it cost you
Stock computer, 58 dollar, 60 cent.
If I have the harness, computer, and fuse block from the car that the engine came from do I have to do anything to the computer? Will the check engine light wire give me a check light if I don't have all the extra abs, stablittrac and air bag crap connected?
Youll need the computer to be flashed for the swap. It wont start at all unless you also wire in the BCM.
So I would need obviously the engine, engine wiring harness ECU for that engine and the BCM (body control module)? Can you explain why I would need the BCM? I don't intend on installing any of the airbags, traction control or anti lock brakes (although the anti lock brakes would be great) why would BCM be necessary? No other video showing a LS swap has said anything about BCM.@@wilsworkshop
Where do the gauges get their signal from?
It depends on your gauges. There isn't an easy answer since everyone's swap is different. This video just covers the wiring needed for the engine/transmission to run.
I like your second tensioner to delete the power steering pump. What tensioner is that and how did you mount it?
It's a random tensioner from my junk pile, GM 6 rib pulleys are pretty universal. Mount is just a plate I drilled.
Nice job
Thanks!
Where did u get the flash stand alone computer
HP Tuners.
Want to do this LS swap so bad. Wiring is my only concern. Decisions...Decisions
Do you even need to cut anything tho? Other then the fuse block plug like do you have to cut sensors?
You can leave the harness 100% uncut and it will work just fine. the wire removal is just to make it look less janky.
Can I go to the scrap yard and grab a harness for my 5.3 with same connections and take the ecu and use it on my 5.3 engine
Yep, you'll just need to delete VATS from the computer for it to run, but the wiring can be used as-is.
Okay I’m running an cable throttle body. Can I use a 6.0 lq9 harness and ecu for my 09 5.3 I already did dod delete
Also I noticed you didn't use F1 wire for the fuel pump
Yep, you can use the stock wiring from the fuse block, or use a wire directly from the ignition switch for a relay.
Could you plastic dip all the clip wires and keep the bundle wires to a minimum
Sure, I've never done it, but it's your car, experiment away !
This video is giving me the courage to do my own standalone for my next swap. One question you may know....previous harness I bought for my 79 swap Blazer had 2 wires marked "check engine light" and I'd like to connect it to the stock dash. Can I assume one is power to the light, and the other ground?
Yep, should be power and ground, it notlrmally dosent matter which is which for a light.
@@wilsworkshop Doesn't matter for an incandescent bulb. If using an LED bulb, you need to mark which wire is positive and which is negative.
On the driver side head in the back is where all the grounds junction together. I had to cut the black wire on the LH coil plug to feed the other wired around it. There are 2 junctions wherw grounds combine. I lost track on where the coil harness went. Can i just combine all the grounds together?
Yep you can combine all the grounds. I often extend and re-route them to the front of the heads in swaps if there's no firewall clearance for me to fit my hand back there and everything works fine.
awesome
NICE VIDEO, QUICK QUESTION , WHAT ABOUT THE ECU, STILL WE CAN USE THE SAMEONE, THANKS A LOT FOR THE INFO.
You'll need a PCM programmed for standalone operation.
Thanks...a million
You bet !
I have a 08 Colorado...5 cyl...I don't like the 5 cyl...so I have one 4.8 L...06 chevy express engine...and a 6.0 engine...also.
I heard that they both can work in a swap...I have never done one b4...but I'm up for it...can a 4L80E trans work with this?
Freaking genius
Only problem i have is my ecm connectors are different no bolt and black and grey not red and blue or other colours
It might be a dumb question or its been asked but how do I know what I don't need?. Like the evap and what not for sure. How do I mechanically remove that stuff?.thanks in advance.
Each swap is different, you just have to decide what you want to keep and what you want to get rid of. It's not an easy question to answer.
Awesome
What's the reason for leaving out the evap, communication, and o2 wires?
thanks
28:42 Do you have a video that goes over getting your computer flashed? Does it have to be from the same donor?
Can you help me make the harness for a s10 1992
The Power is Yours !
Well that's still running the 4L60E transmission
Yep, you can use or not use the trans wiring.
Where do I run a OBD 2 connector to both of my ends are cut
Is there any way to make the fuse block any smaller? Those things are huge. And are hard to hide.
You can buy an aftermarket fuse and relay block and wire it in. I've used some of the $15 ones off ebay that have at least 4 fuses and 2 relays to rework stock harnesses. Something like this : www.ebay.com/itm/203652877070?hash=item2f6aa84b0e:g:sNoAAOSwzU1haUQw
Sweet. Maybe you should do a video on how to repin one of these fuse boxes.
Are you going to get a check engine light removed those wires?
Is there enough wire from the fuse box and CPU to be able to relocate them into the cab? I`m thinking of a 1948-53 chev truck with not a whole lotta room under the hood to hide stuff.
Most of the wires are too short on the driver side to pass the harness thru the firewall. The best option for that is to buy an extended aftermarket harness.
so it takes about 1 hour to connect the new wires.?
So I have a 6.0 ls out a 2005 h2 hummer that I bought but didn't come with fuse box ,can I use one from another ls engine or other year or does it have to be especially from that year and model?
If it's for an engine swap, you can just use any Gen 3 wiring harness that matches the throttle body you plan to use. The engine itself is the same as the Sierra, Silverado, Yukon, etc.. from 2003-2006.
Where or who can flash my computer for me for stand alone
Check online if no ones local for you, lots of mail order companies out there.
What was tge other wire on the white fuse block connector. You had the key on hot but what was the other wire for
Starter relay wire. It's optional to use the fuse block for the starter or just bypass it and use the ignition switch without the computer involved.
Great video, can I do this to a 2019 L84 5.3? I’ve been told to toss the ecm and buy a different stand alone ecm, what’s your advice?
I don't have enough experience with the newer engines to really offer any advice on them. If you go on the HPTuners forums you should be able to find out why someone suggested that route. There could be tuning limitations in the newer PCM's.
What about the fuel pedal wire ?
Wow.... I've stayed away from something like this cause of the harness. It always seemed intimidating the wire harness anyway. So I've always been a carb guy.
Can I use the factory computer or do I have to have this stand alone computer u talk about ? Thanks
The standalone I mentioned is just a factory computer with the Vehicle Anti Theft (VATS) disabled so it will run in an engine swapped car. Normally the engine computer needs to talk to the Body Control Module to turn VATS off and start the engine, but a swap won't normally use a BCM so it needs to be disabled in the tune.
Excuse my ignorance, but are you plugging this now modified loom to a holley Ecu or a GM ecu? And I guess that saves you the $1,500+ for a Holley.
It''s a GM computer.
What did u use for fuel pump relay and power. Is it because you powerd up the fuse box and the fuel pump relay is running pump ????,
On my test stand I have a fuel pump wired on a separate relay that's activated by key-on power. You can use the stock relay and fuse for the fuel pump on the stock fuse block. The computer will activate the relay for 4 seconds when the key is first on to prime the system, then on during crank and run.
But can you still pass inspection
Can I copy this and it will work for a 69 Chevelle or is there something else that needs to be deleted
where did you get the computer flashed for stand alone?? Thanks
HP Tuners