Round of applause and thank you! This has been the best instructional yet on reworking a harness. As it was said before me,I feel can do this and save myself some money on buying a stand alone. 👊✌
Thanks again Will. I"ll figure out what circuits are not necessary for my 6.0 swap situation and get busy and find a stock fuse block for my application. Very helpful to get wires release their homes.
Amazing!!! I think the biggest worry of most garage mechanics is all that damn electrical. When you break it down, step by step and understand each plug and where it goes along with this method… it’s not too damn bad.
Hey Have seen lots of videos. I have done 2 harness a different way. I think I will do this for my next one. You did an excellent job. I appreciate you. thanks for sharing.
3:24 “Some of these… These are the Air Conditioning plugs, so we don’t need those…”. Arizona Man: “Oh, I beg to differ, sir!” lol Nice work! I used to apply the same technique on TPI swaps in the mid 80’s to the late 90’s. Good organization is key to a much less stressful swap. 👍
You should be using wire loom tape. Its got a fabric backing instead of plastic and the glue does not make a sticky mess if you have to take it apart in the future.
Excellent video! I’ve been on the fence about doing an LS swap on my 1970 Firebird, now that I’ve seen your video, I feel much more confident with the electrical part. Good stuff🤙🏽🤙🏽
Great video. The only thing I'd do differently is that I would not tape the wires up tight, because the shortest wire in the bundle will get all of the tension and over time it could fail and cause issues that will be very difficult to diagnose.
So obvious never even thought to approach this way.... downright genius. How though are you regulating the fuel pressure? I see your make-shift fuel can at the bottom.... but don't see a regulator... Thanks!
The engine harness is simple because it only has connectors for engine related sensors & one that connects the the PCM. It's the other harness(the one that distributes power that can be difficult if you don't take your time & familiarize yourself with it.
The other harness that you mentioned is likely the power distribution harness, which distributes power to various electrical components of the vehicle 3. This harness can be difficult to work with if you are not familiar with it. It is important to take your time and understand how it works before attempting any repairs or modifications.
That's a great idea using a Seam Ripper to cut the tape. Most even have the little protective ball of plastic on the very tip which would protect the wires. I'll have to try it out.
Lifted it up and took it close to my torch. All most got out under the load? Set it all back on the ground. High heat,flex Plat bolts came loose then!Magic!
I have a hoist and fully equipped outdoor cement slab (before the hurricane. It was a carport ), it won't be too bad , im pretty decent at turning a wrench ..just boring by myself ..
Awesome, it's really simple, I don't know why more people don't do it this way. There's nothing wrong with pinouts and chopping the harness on a bench, this is just faster and less prone to screw a wire up.
While a lot of your video and information was very useful and good information, there's a few things you don't wanna do. The main thing is do not bend your wires over like you did in the bulky areas. There's several reasons why but the main is you're weakening the wire when you do that and are just creating future problems for yourself and making it a pain in the ass to troubleshoot those problems.
It's not an ideal situation (this is a budget harness after all), but, I've taken apart plenty of OEM harnesses that have folded wires from the factory, GM has been doing it at least since the 80's. I still drive cars I folded wires on 20+ years ago, no issues. With quality stranded solid copper TXL, SXL or GXL wire I don't think it's a concern. CCA wire, sure, that stuffs garbage.
Great video Wil ! Could u b so kind as too explain ur fuel source. Wat u used and how u hooked it up. I didn't c any thing on the run stand. That wud make a great video along with ur dash panel with key start and mechanical gauges. sum of us newbies r not very bright.....lol
Fuel source for the run stand is pretty basic. It's a metal 1 gallon paint can with a stock fuel pump from a truck in it. Two 6an bulkhead fittings installed in the lid, then 6an line ran to the fuel rail (pressure regulator on stock rail). There's a relay that powers the pump that's just controlled from the key-on position. It's the same setup that would work on a vehicle, just using a paint can instead of a gas tank.
First of all....love your videos, clean and simple and detailed! I have a question for you, I am doing an s10 like you done on another video, my question is I am wanting to use my current gauges and try to keep everything factory per say. Do I need to use the fuse box from my swap or can I use my fuse box from my s10. If I use my s10 fuse box I assume I would need to repin the other connectors to match the swap ECU?
You can use both fuse blocks, I never removed the stock S10 one, it ran the lights, gauges, etc.. I installed a separate fuse block just for the engine/trans swap.
MAF, MAP, Cam, Crankshaft, Temperature, TPS, O2's, and Knock sensors are the ones you need. The oil pressure and oil level sensors usually just run to the BCM/Dash and not the engine computer.
They usually aren't 100% necessary. I've done swaps where I bypassed them completely and didn't have issues. But I usually connect them so the computers happy with fuel pump relay control and other items.
That is amazing. I have a quick question. How can I get a standalone computer? And can you run 4L60 training with that? I'm trying to put TJ Together with lS swap. I have a ton of wiring harness. Just like that I run a junkyard.
Thank you for all of your wiring videos! They have been a huge help in my swap on my s10. I do have one question though in the harness, what did you do with the ground splices where multiple grounds meet up? I’m stripping the rear o2 sensors and other plugs like the coolant level or oil level switch and all their grounds are spliced together
I usually just cut the ground wire thats being removed off near that splice and heat shrink over the end, then tape it up. Not 100% necessary since it's just a ground wire, but it makes it look cleaner.
@@wilsworkshop sounds good to me!! That should work pretty good. I started laying my harness out under the hood today so I can get it organized how I would like. I think I’m going to tuck most of the wiring by guns fuel rails instead of over the top of the motor. Most of it lines up but I’m going to have to lengthen the drivers side injectors and throttle body plugs. Should be pretty tidy when I’m done hopefully
I feel dumb when it comes to swap wiring How do you go about getting power to the cars harness Wanting to swap my z, but I’d like to keep all factory functions. Like lights and turn signals.
Liked your video.maybe you could make one on using circuits necessary from the original harness such as the antilock brake wiring and incorporating that into the standalone harness.if that is what you do.thats where is I am now and I am totally baffled.any help would be greatly appreciated
It would be too vehicle specific for me to do a video on it, since it would be different for each vehicle. Just focus on one wire at a time and you'll be able to get it done for yours.
@@wilsworkshop nobody seems to approach this subject.i get the whole stand alone harness part,but I have a 98 Chev that I'm putting a 5.3 in and it must pass ny state emissions inspection.i am at a loss on this one.thanks for your reply will, you're pretty awesome dude
It's just not common enough for there to be a bunch of videos on. Integrating the ABS into the engine computer isn't needed or done for the vast majority of LS Swaps is all. I don't think I've seen any videos on it either, but there is information out there that I've read on how to do it. Most of the swaps I do either don't have ABS, or the ABS module is separate and works by itself without being wired to the LS PCM.
For something that new I'm not sure, I mainly just mess with older engines. If you can't find one online you may need to get a Haynes or Chilton's manual that includes the wiring diagrams and make your own cheat sheet. Sounds like a fun project !
Awesome, very thorough yet simple and informative. how do you flash the ECM to take off what you are not using? or who did you get to Flash the ECM for Stand Alone?
Wil's Workshop which HP Tuner system do you use or which do you recommend? Any advice would you give to someone who is wanting to learn tuning? PS, I'm a old guy trying to step into present times.
Thanks for the video demo. I'm sure it will save me some money. I've got an 03 suburban like to pull the engine and transfer it into my 87 Chevy pickup. What type of budget transmission have you used in your projects?
The 4L60e's that came in the trucks are the most budget option there is. They aren't the best choice for heavy vehicles or modified engines, but will work if it's just a daily driver type vehicle. Second choice is a 4L80e. They can be found cheap enough to still be considered budget and can usually take more abuse then a stock rotating assembly can put out.
This video is giving me the courage to do my own standalone for my next swap. One question you may know....previous harness I bought for my 79 swap Blazer had 2 wires marked "check engine light" and I'd like to connect it to the stock dash. Can I assume one is power to the light, and the other ground?
I don't have enough experience with the newer engines to really offer any advice on them. If you go on the HPTuners forums you should be able to find out why someone suggested that route. There could be tuning limitations in the newer PCM's.
Rubbing alcohol might be better for cleaning since it evaporates so easily. I always buy 91% and dilute it if needed. Generally cheaper that way, then put it in a used up spray bottle.
Great job on video, but I am interested in the engine/run stand you made. Can you describe how you made it or make a video on it? It looks like it only made for running at idle to check function and leaks correct?
It runs at any RPM I could want. I've revved the engines to redline on the stand. It has braces on the sides so it doesn't rock or fall over when revving. I may do a video on one later since I need to make a second one at some point.
I am trying to swap with my K5 with 5.3 Silverado engine 2001 I’m getting fuel but something not getting consistent gas to keep it running and I bought a new pump put new fuel lines. It’s turning over but it’s not staying running I’m just feeling stuckat this point
So that harness you have is it from another car and you adjust it to work on the car you are working on? And to make a new harness from another car harness, do you need to remove 1st your harness and make the new harness like your original? I think maybe to mimic the original harness from another car harness, since can't find what I need exactly. But what harness to buy, fm/larger car, so the length of the wires will be sufficient and you can cut it to the desired length? Thank you for your film, very interesting to see professional work with auto wires.
For the truck harnesses, they're all the same , from a 1999 Silverado to a 2006 Escalade. They dont have differnt length wires on any of them, so using a stock harness will always have limitations, but they're super cheap.
@@wilsworkshop Thank you for your replay. I'm sorry I didn't mention that it is a small passenger car 2001 Saturn SL2. I thought it doesn't matter, you buy a bigger harness and then adjust to your smaller one. But maybe you can't use for the passenger car the harness from the truck, maybe totally different wires (like diameter).
If you want a longer wiring harness, theres aftermarket ones available that have a few extra feet worth of wire to the computer and fuse blocks. PSI is a good choice.
It might be a dumb question or its been asked but how do I know what I don't need?. Like the evap and what not for sure. How do I mechanically remove that stuff?.thanks in advance.
If I have the harness, computer, and fuse block from the car that the engine came from do I have to do anything to the computer? Will the check engine light wire give me a check light if I don't have all the extra abs, stablittrac and air bag crap connected?
So I would need obviously the engine, engine wiring harness ECU for that engine and the BCM (body control module)? Can you explain why I would need the BCM? I don't intend on installing any of the airbags, traction control or anti lock brakes (although the anti lock brakes would be great) why would BCM be necessary? No other video showing a LS swap has said anything about BCM.@@wilsworkshop
Mostly just keep the stock AC parts intact with a compressor that fits on the 5.3L. Then a couple wires to the computer (mainly to control idle RPM and electric fans).
Is there enough wire from the fuse box and CPU to be able to relocate them into the cab? I`m thinking of a 1948-53 chev truck with not a whole lotta room under the hood to hide stuff.
Most of the wires are too short on the driver side to pass the harness thru the firewall. The best option for that is to buy an extended aftermarket harness.
"Flashed Stand alone computer" I heard you say the body control module would not be used and certain emission items would be removed. Are you saying that somebody flashes a PCM/ECM to eliminate the extras you cut out? You also used a code reader for your ADL connector. Does this mean you will not have a Check engine light on your final set up? What about output wiring to gauges? Obviously the Control unit requires the temp sensor and oil pressure inputs for performance and fuel control. But, will you be able to output that info to gauges or will you be needing to provide for separate gauge wiring?
Custom tuners can reflash the PCM to match the application. For gauges, there's different options depending on the vehicle, but yes, the computer will still output the stock gauge signals. Check engine lights are boring, I never use them.
On the driver side head in the back is where all the grounds junction together. I had to cut the black wire on the LH coil plug to feed the other wired around it. There are 2 junctions wherw grounds combine. I lost track on where the coil harness went. Can i just combine all the grounds together?
Yep you can combine all the grounds. I often extend and re-route them to the front of the heads in swaps if there's no firewall clearance for me to fit my hand back there and everything works fine.
So I do not know nothing about wiring and I’m rebuilding a 5.3 and using stock harness just sun internal mods going into the truck btw but how do u know Wich sensor goes where
Wow.... I've stayed away from something like this cause of the harness. It always seemed intimidating the wire harness anyway. So I've always been a carb guy. Can I use the factory computer or do I have to have this stand alone computer u talk about ? Thanks
The standalone I mentioned is just a factory computer with the Vehicle Anti Theft (VATS) disabled so it will run in an engine swapped car. Normally the engine computer needs to talk to the Body Control Module to turn VATS off and start the engine, but a swap won't normally use a BCM so it needs to be disabled in the tune.
Im curious where that purple wire at B8 is for? Brandan over at Lt1swap shows using B11 for switched 12 volt on 99-02 fuse blocks and B11 I think on the 03-07’s. Whats also baffling is you didnt hook that purple to anything before you started the engine
I used the purple wire as a starter relay output wire for a different setup. I just reused the connector for this demonstration since it already had the wires removed. For this setup I wired the starter directly to the ignition switch, bypassing the stock relay, so the purple wire wasn't used or mentioned.
Instead of removing the pin and wire from the connector, could you just cut the wire right at the connector? Is it okay to do this or will it cause an issue?
You can, but it's possible the cut wire can ground against something or get water in it and cause corrosion. If you don't want to de-pin the connectors it's just better to leave the extra wires in the harness.
how did you disable alarm or immobilizer ? if not deactivated wont they keep engine from starting ? if not , pcm still thinks it's in original vehicle and won't start
I've built several harnesses and I've never thought to do it this way. This is genius
Glad ya liked it
Does that work o MN av6 votteck replacing a 4 cyl s10?
@@wilsworkshop *k km, ]]⁹
What a F#%&nd mess
There’s people like me with no patience whatsoever
Good Job. Simplicity and Common Sense is always best.
Thank you so much, I'm building a 5.3 Porsche 944 and I'm trying to save money as much as possible. I will be using this as a resource! Thank you!
Round of applause and thank you! This has been the best instructional yet on reworking a harness. As it was said before me,I feel can do this and save myself some money on buying a stand alone. 👊✌
Glad it helped!
U said it best thanks
Yes it's good
Looks more easier
Thanks again Will. I"ll figure out what circuits are not necessary for my 6.0 swap situation and get busy and find a stock fuse block for my application. Very helpful to get wires release their homes.
Amazing!!! I think the biggest worry of most garage mechanics is all that damn electrical. When you break it down, step by step and understand each plug and where it goes along with this method… it’s not too damn bad.
Dude, you literally just made me believe I can do this myself! You’re the man! Thank you for this video
You can do it!
😂
You are the man ♂️
I love the fact you went right to the project. Very good info, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Have seen lots of videos. I have done 2 harness a different way. I think I will do this for my next one. You did an excellent job. I appreciate you. thanks for sharing.
Glad it helped
3:24 “Some of these… These are the Air Conditioning plugs, so we don’t need those…”.
Arizona Man: “Oh, I beg to differ, sir!”
lol
Nice work! I used to apply the same technique on TPI swaps in the mid 80’s to the late 90’s.
Good organization is key to a much less stressful swap. 👍
Thank you sir for getting to it and helping out us DIY'ers...
Any time!
You should be using wire loom tape. Its got a fabric backing instead of plastic and the glue does not make a sticky mess if you have to take it apart in the future.
Sticky wiring is my fetish. Also, I'm really cheap and that fancy cloth tape is like $10 a roll or something.
It's called Tesa tape
I must have gotten some really
low quality Tesa tape because mine still made for a sticky mess 2 years later.
Excellent video! I’ve been on the fence about doing an LS swap on my 1970 Firebird, now that I’ve seen your video, I feel much more confident with the electrical part. Good stuff🤙🏽🤙🏽
It can be a little overwhelming at first, but once you get the parts and just do 1 wire at a time, it's actually pretty easy.
@@wilsworkshop i just picked up a complete harness,computer,and fuse block! gonna pick up the 4Le60e from the same suv tommorow.
Great video. The only thing I'd do differently is that I would not tape the wires up tight, because the shortest wire in the bundle will get all of the tension and over time it could fail and cause issues that will be very difficult to diagnose.
bravo! my confidence just grew 100%!!! thank you looking forward to my project now!!
You got this!
Thank you, it’s so simple the way you described it.
Glad it was helpful!
best video I've ever seen on the subject
best comment I've ever seen
So obvious never even thought to approach this way.... downright genius. How though are you regulating the fuel pressure? I see your make-shift fuel can at the bottom.... but don't see a regulator... Thanks!
The stock return style fuel rails have a built in regulator, on the driver side rail with a vacumme line going to it.
Can you make a video building your test stand? Great video!
The engine harness is simple because it only has connectors for engine related sensors & one that connects the the PCM. It's the other harness(the one that distributes power that can be difficult if you don't take your time & familiarize yourself with it.
The other harness that you mentioned is likely the power distribution harness, which distributes power to various electrical components of the vehicle 3. This harness can be difficult to work with if you are not familiar with it. It is important to take your time and understand how it works before attempting any repairs or modifications.
Genius about doing the harness on the engine. I use a tool to cut the tape etc that a seamstress would use to take apart threads on a pair of pants.
That's a great idea using a Seam Ripper to cut the tape. Most even have the little protective ball of plastic on the very tip which would protect the wires. I'll have to try it out.
The seamripper works amazing for opening up harnesses without damaging wiring. Get a couple, they're cheap and don't last forever.
Cleaned up nicely.
Q: Do you see these comments on older videos?
Murph
Thanks,getting closer.
It's out and on the ground.
Flex bolts next !!!!!
You'll get it, one step at a time!
Lifted it up and took it close to my torch.
All most got out under the load?
Set it all back on the ground.
High heat,flex Plat bolts came loose then!Magic!
Oh yeah.
Disconnect the cam sensor wire before that last flex Plat bolt.SNAP!!
Thanks you give me confidence to attempt my project truck.
Go for it!
I have a hoist and fully equipped outdoor cement slab (before the hurricane. It was a carport ), it won't be too bad , im pretty decent at turning a wrench ..just boring by myself ..
I just finished mine... first start right up wow so simple but I cut myself with the razor blade on my finger it’s pretty bad..Well worth it
Awesome, it's really simple, I don't know why more people don't do it this way. There's nothing wrong with pinouts and chopping the harness on a bench, this is just faster and less prone to screw a wire up.
I’ve seen a lot of videos but this one .....this man is Awesome...
Thanks for watching
While a lot of your video and information was very useful and good information, there's a few things you don't wanna do. The main thing is do not bend your wires over like you did in the bulky areas. There's several reasons why but the main is you're weakening the wire when you do that and are just creating future problems for yourself and making it a pain in the ass to troubleshoot those problems.
It's not an ideal situation (this is a budget harness after all), but, I've taken apart plenty of OEM harnesses that have folded wires from the factory, GM has been doing it at least since the 80's. I still drive cars I folded wires on 20+ years ago, no issues. With quality stranded solid copper TXL, SXL or GXL wire I don't think it's a concern. CCA wire, sure, that stuffs garbage.
It is a wire, not a garden hose. Like to know where you got that bit of information.
Amazing job señor , hands down for you , salute) thanks for the info , now I just gained more trust on how to do my new project involving my neon !
Great to hear!
Great video Wil !
Could u b so kind as too explain ur fuel source. Wat u used and how u hooked it up.
I didn't c any thing on the run stand. That wud make a great video along with ur dash panel with key start and mechanical gauges. sum of us newbies r not very bright.....lol
Fuel source for the run stand is pretty basic. It's a metal 1 gallon paint can with a stock fuel pump from a truck in it. Two 6an bulkhead fittings installed in the lid, then 6an line ran to the fuel rail (pressure regulator on stock rail). There's a relay that powers the pump that's just controlled from the key-on position. It's the same setup that would work on a vehicle, just using a paint can instead of a gas tank.
Does this mean the fuel pump is just always running? Or does it only run when pressure is needed? (Does it sense that by itself?)
@@Slowtrickdotcomseems as if its always running
The best simple video I've seen to date been looking for a simple way just made my day thanks
Glad it helped
@@wilsworkshop hello would there a problem with using shrink wrap instead of loom?
Great Job I am impressed thankyou for posting
Thank you too!
Thank u for take the time out of your day👍🏾👍🏾🤟🏾🤟🏾
Any time
You made it look easy,I thank you!!!
You can do it!
Your good thank u it my first time doing this watch a lot of videos ur the best one
Really nice video. Helped me to work out what im tryin to do
Great clear how too !! At 20:11 mark you have a blue connector what was that for where was it plugged in too originally thanks
It should be one that goes to the dash, I've never needed it but I think it's HVAC controls or something similar.
First of all....love your videos, clean and simple and detailed! I have a question for you, I am doing an s10 like you done on another video, my question is I am wanting to use my current gauges and try to keep everything factory per say. Do I need to use the fuse box from my swap or can I use my fuse box from my s10. If I use my s10 fuse box I assume I would need to repin the other connectors to match the swap ECU?
You can use both fuse blocks, I never removed the stock S10 one, it ran the lights, gauges, etc.. I installed a separate fuse block just for the engine/trans swap.
Great video very informative straight to the point do you know of where I can find out exactly wich sensor I need to keep thank you
MAF, MAP, Cam, Crankshaft, Temperature, TPS, O2's, and Knock sensors are the ones you need.
The oil pressure and oil level sensors usually just run to the BCM/Dash and not the engine computer.
@@wilsworkshop thank you I really appreciate it.another quick question are the plugs for the neutral safety switch needed thx again
They usually aren't 100% necessary. I've done swaps where I bypassed them completely and didn't have issues. But I usually connect them so the computers happy with fuel pump relay control and other items.
That's exactly what I was thinking to do conect evrethin and remove whatever wiring left 👍
Right on
That is amazing.
I have a quick question. How can I get a standalone computer? And can you run 4L60 training with that? I'm trying to put TJ Together with lS swap. I have a ton of wiring harness. Just like that I run a junkyard.
Dude went God mode!
You made this understandable! My goodness I can do it !!! Thanks bro!
You can do it!
NICE VIDEO, QUICK QUESTION , WHAT ABOUT THE ECU, STILL WE CAN USE THE SAMEONE, THANKS A LOT FOR THE INFO.
You'll need a PCM programmed for standalone operation.
Thank you for all of your wiring videos! They have been a huge help in my swap on my s10. I do have one question though in the harness, what did you do with the ground splices where multiple grounds meet up? I’m stripping the rear o2 sensors and other plugs like the coolant level or oil level switch and all their grounds are spliced together
I usually just cut the ground wire thats being removed off near that splice and heat shrink over the end, then tape it up. Not 100% necessary since it's just a ground wire, but it makes it look cleaner.
@@wilsworkshop sounds good to me!! That should work pretty good. I started laying my harness out under the hood today so I can get it organized how I would like. I think I’m going to tuck most of the wiring by guns fuel rails instead of over the top of the motor. Most of it lines up but I’m going to have to lengthen the drivers side injectors and throttle body plugs. Should be pretty tidy when I’m done hopefully
SOUNDED REAL GOOD.
Great job what computer used and how much did it cost you
Stock computer, 58 dollar, 60 cent.
Dude you might have just changed my mind on doing this
Sweet !
Great video! You made it easy!
Glad it helped!
I like your second tensioner to delete the power steering pump. What tensioner is that and how did you mount it?
It's a random tensioner from my junk pile, GM 6 rib pulleys are pretty universal. Mount is just a plate I drilled.
Man that was a awesome video! Made perfect sense, and not rocket appliance either!!
Glad you liked it!
I feel dumb when it comes to swap wiring
How do you go about getting power to the cars harness
Wanting to swap my z, but I’d like to keep all factory functions. Like lights and turn signals.
The lights, turn signals, etc.. should work before the swap, just don't remove any of that wiring and it will work after the swap.
Liked your video.maybe you could make one on using circuits necessary from the original harness such as the antilock brake wiring and incorporating that into the standalone harness.if that is what you do.thats where is I am now and I am totally baffled.any help would be greatly appreciated
It would be too vehicle specific for me to do a video on it, since it would be different for each vehicle. Just focus on one wire at a time and you'll be able to get it done for yours.
@@wilsworkshop nobody seems to approach this subject.i get the whole stand alone harness part,but I have a 98 Chev that I'm putting a 5.3 in and it must pass ny state emissions inspection.i am at a loss on this one.thanks for your reply will, you're pretty awesome dude
It's just not common enough for there to be a bunch of videos on. Integrating the ABS into the engine computer isn't needed or done for the vast majority of LS Swaps is all. I don't think I've seen any videos on it either, but there is information out there that I've read on how to do it. Most of the swaps I do either don't have ABS, or the ABS module is separate and works by itself without being wired to the LS PCM.
The best video I ever seen
The best comment I ever seen !
I appreciate this video so much man! Thank you!!
Thanks Wil. You make it look simple.
I have a 15 LV3 with factory harness and I want to use the FPCM. Where can I find pinouts?
For something that new I'm not sure, I mainly just mess with older engines. If you can't find one online you may need to get a Haynes or Chilton's manual that includes the wiring diagrams and make your own cheat sheet. Sounds like a fun project !
Awesome, very thorough yet simple and informative. how do you flash the ECM to take off what you are not using? or who did you get to Flash the ECM for Stand Alone?
I use HP Tuners for flashing.
Wil's Workshop which HP Tuner system do you use or which do you recommend? Any advice would you give to someone who is wanting to learn tuning?
PS, I'm a old guy trying to step into present times.
Thanks for the video demo. I'm sure it will save me some money. I've got an 03 suburban like to pull the engine and transfer it into my 87 Chevy pickup. What type of budget transmission have you used in your projects?
The 4L60e's that came in the trucks are the most budget option there is. They aren't the best choice for heavy vehicles or modified engines, but will work if it's just a daily driver type vehicle.
Second choice is a 4L80e. They can be found cheap enough to still be considered budget and can usually take more abuse then a stock rotating assembly can put out.
Can a stock 3 speed transmission be used. Or a 700r4.
If it can bolt to a SBC, then yes. But you may need adapters for the torque converter or flywheel.
I'm taking a 5.3 ls out of a 2010 Silverado going into my 97 s10 can do what u did with the wire harness from the 2010 onto the s10
Sorta, but it will look completely different since 2010 is a Gen4 engine/computer/wiring harness.
Hay buddy wow your great but one question after removing all the pins do u have to reprogram the brain
Very helpful stuff! Thank you!
This video is giving me the courage to do my own standalone for my next swap. One question you may know....previous harness I bought for my 79 swap Blazer had 2 wires marked "check engine light" and I'd like to connect it to the stock dash. Can I assume one is power to the light, and the other ground?
Yep, should be power and ground, it notlrmally dosent matter which is which for a light.
@@wilsworkshop Doesn't matter for an incandescent bulb. If using an LED bulb, you need to mark which wire is positive and which is negative.
Hell yeah now I'm motivated what about the standalone ecm where u get that at?
For stock engines you can get them just about anywhere. Aftermarket cams and stuff you'll need to find someone to tune it for you.
Great video, can I do this to a 2019 L84 5.3? I’ve been told to toss the ecm and buy a different stand alone ecm, what’s your advice?
I don't have enough experience with the newer engines to really offer any advice on them. If you go on the HPTuners forums you should be able to find out why someone suggested that route. There could be tuning limitations in the newer PCM's.
Rubbing alcohol might be better for cleaning since it evaporates so easily. I always buy 91% and dilute it if needed. Generally cheaper that way, then put it in a used up spray bottle.
Alchocal is a good choice for cleaning also.
Great video. Easy to follow and understand. Wouldn't you need to turn off VATS before firing the motor though?
Yep, the wiring harness is just the wiring, the computer still needs VATS turned off.
Great job on video, but I am interested in the engine/run stand you made. Can you describe how you made it or make a video on it? It looks like it only made for running at idle to check function and leaks correct?
It runs at any RPM I could want. I've revved the engines to redline on the stand. It has braces on the sides so it doesn't rock or fall over when revving. I may do a video on one later since I need to make a second one at some point.
Did you purchase an engine stand and modify it into a run stand? It looks like a Harbor Frieght model.
It's the harbor freight heavy duty model as the base structure.
Cool, it looked like it. If you get time I think it would be a good video to do if you are looking at building another one. Thanks for responding!
Ditto on the engine stand video. Really like your videos and the stand looks simple enough that an average guy could build one
I am trying to swap with my K5 with 5.3 Silverado engine 2001 I’m getting fuel but something not getting consistent gas to keep it running and I bought a new pump put new fuel lines. It’s turning over but it’s not staying running I’m just feeling stuckat this point
So that harness you have is it from another car and you adjust it to work on the car you are working on? And to make a new harness from another car harness, do you need to remove 1st your harness and make the new harness like your original? I think maybe to mimic the original harness from another car harness, since can't find what I need exactly. But what harness to buy, fm/larger car, so the length of the wires will be sufficient and you can cut it to the desired length? Thank you for your film, very interesting to see professional work with auto wires.
For the truck harnesses, they're all the same , from a 1999 Silverado to a 2006 Escalade. They dont have differnt length wires on any of them, so using a stock harness will always have limitations, but they're super cheap.
@@wilsworkshop Thank you for your replay. I'm sorry I didn't mention that it is a small passenger car 2001 Saturn SL2. I thought it doesn't matter, you buy a bigger harness and then adjust to your smaller one. But maybe you can't use for the passenger car the harness from the truck, maybe totally different wires (like diameter).
If you want a longer wiring harness, theres aftermarket ones available that have a few extra feet worth of wire to the computer and fuse blocks. PSI is a good choice.
@@wilsworkshop O'K, thank you. I'll keep that in mind.
Nice work 😎
Thanks ✌
How did you get the fuel pump on a different chassis to work with that stock fuse block
It might be a dumb question or its been asked but how do I know what I don't need?. Like the evap and what not for sure. How do I mechanically remove that stuff?.thanks in advance.
Each swap is different, you just have to decide what you want to keep and what you want to get rid of. It's not an easy question to answer.
What's the reason for leaving out the evap, communication, and o2 wires?
Thanks for the info about to start mine
No problem 👍
Could you plastic dip all the clip wires and keep the bundle wires to a minimum
Sure, I've never done it, but it's your car, experiment away !
If I have the harness, computer, and fuse block from the car that the engine came from do I have to do anything to the computer? Will the check engine light wire give me a check light if I don't have all the extra abs, stablittrac and air bag crap connected?
Youll need the computer to be flashed for the swap. It wont start at all unless you also wire in the BCM.
So I would need obviously the engine, engine wiring harness ECU for that engine and the BCM (body control module)? Can you explain why I would need the BCM? I don't intend on installing any of the airbags, traction control or anti lock brakes (although the anti lock brakes would be great) why would BCM be necessary? No other video showing a LS swap has said anything about BCM.@@wilsworkshop
Excuse my ignorance, but are you plugging this now modified loom to a holley Ecu or a GM ecu? And I guess that saves you the $1,500+ for a Holley.
It''s a GM computer.
Badass!!! Thanks for the info!!! Very useful video!!
Glad it was helpful!
Can I go to the scrap yard and grab a harness for my 5.3 with same connections and take the ecu and use it on my 5.3 engine
Yep, you'll just need to delete VATS from the computer for it to run, but the wiring can be used as-is.
Okay I’m running an cable throttle body. Can I use a 6.0 lq9 harness and ecu for my 09 5.3 I already did dod delete
HEROOOOO, Thanks for such a informative video. Great job my dude!!
Any time!
Awesome man. I have a 92 Silverado I’m going to install a 2003 5.3 w 4l60e. What do I need to keep to run the ac system on the truck?
Mostly just keep the stock AC parts intact with a compressor that fits on the 5.3L. Then a couple wires to the computer (mainly to control idle RPM and electric fans).
Me to a 2006 5,3
Are you going to get a check engine light removed those wires?
I was so distracted by the snot whistle 😂
Also I noticed you didn't use F1 wire for the fuel pump
Yep, you can use the stock wiring from the fuse block, or use a wire directly from the ignition switch for a relay.
Do you even need to cut anything tho? Other then the fuse block plug like do you have to cut sensors?
You can leave the harness 100% uncut and it will work just fine. the wire removal is just to make it look less janky.
Is there enough wire from the fuse box and CPU to be able to relocate them into the cab? I`m thinking of a 1948-53 chev truck with not a whole lotta room under the hood to hide stuff.
Most of the wires are too short on the driver side to pass the harness thru the firewall. The best option for that is to buy an extended aftermarket harness.
"Flashed Stand alone computer" I heard you say the body control module would not be used and certain emission items would be removed. Are you saying that somebody flashes a PCM/ECM to eliminate the extras you cut out? You also used a code reader for your ADL connector. Does this mean you will not have a Check engine light on your final set up? What about output wiring to gauges? Obviously the Control unit requires the temp sensor and oil pressure inputs for performance and fuel control. But, will you be able to output that info to gauges or will you be needing to provide for separate gauge wiring?
Custom tuners can reflash the PCM to match the application. For gauges, there's different options depending on the vehicle, but yes, the computer will still output the stock gauge signals. Check engine lights are boring, I never use them.
On the driver side head in the back is where all the grounds junction together. I had to cut the black wire on the LH coil plug to feed the other wired around it. There are 2 junctions wherw grounds combine. I lost track on where the coil harness went. Can i just combine all the grounds together?
Yep you can combine all the grounds. I often extend and re-route them to the front of the heads in swaps if there's no firewall clearance for me to fit my hand back there and everything works fine.
If your not using the transmission can you remove the wiring or leave it?
Yep, you can do either option. really the only reason to remove wiring is so the harness is smaller and looks better.
How do you flash computer ?
So I do not know nothing about wiring and I’m rebuilding a 5.3 and using stock harness just sun internal mods going into the truck btw but how do u know Wich sensor goes where
I just know from tearing apart about 8000 LS engines, beyond that just take lots of pictures to look at later if you can't remember.
And this allows tac and rpm and coolant gauge to work on any chassis u use?
Wow.... I've stayed away from something like this cause of the harness. It always seemed intimidating the wire harness anyway. So I've always been a carb guy.
Can I use the factory computer or do I have to have this stand alone computer u talk about ? Thanks
The standalone I mentioned is just a factory computer with the Vehicle Anti Theft (VATS) disabled so it will run in an engine swapped car. Normally the engine computer needs to talk to the Body Control Module to turn VATS off and start the engine, but a swap won't normally use a BCM so it needs to be disabled in the tune.
Im curious where that purple wire at B8 is for? Brandan over at Lt1swap shows using B11 for switched 12 volt on 99-02 fuse blocks and B11 I think on the 03-07’s. Whats also baffling is you didnt hook that purple to anything before you started the engine
I used the purple wire as a starter relay output wire for a different setup. I just reused the connector for this demonstration since it already had the wires removed. For this setup I wired the starter directly to the ignition switch, bypassing the stock relay, so the purple wire wasn't used or mentioned.
While watching the video I had a flashback doing GPS for Car City, most if not all the General Motors product has a purple wire running to the starter
Instead of removing the pin and wire from the connector, could you just cut the wire right at the connector?
Is it okay to do this or will it cause an issue?
You can, but it's possible the cut wire can ground against something or get water in it and cause corrosion. If you don't want to de-pin the connectors it's just better to leave the extra wires in the harness.
What controls the voltages and signals between obd1 and obd2 and what about gagues
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Great video man
You can't keep a good man down your hired .
how did you disable alarm or immobilizer ? if not deactivated wont they keep engine from starting ? if not , pcm still thinks it's in original vehicle and won't start
I used HP Tuners for the VATS bypass.