STOP Dry Starting your Pentastar 3.6!!
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- Опубликовано: 16 июн 2024
- Baxter Performance Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter for Jeep 3.6 Pentastar Engine
Want to stop the 3.6 Pentastar dry start-ups in your Jeep JL, JT or JK? Baxter Performance makes a spin-on oil filter adapter that is easy to install, it makes your oil filter changes easier and most importantly, it has an anti-drainback valve in it to help the oil primed in the top part of the engine.
The 3.6 Pentastar engine doesn't have an anti-drain back vale in it. So about 35 minutes after you shut the engine off, all the oil has drained back into the oil pan. Then when you start it up again, it can take up 3.5 seconds for the oil to reach everywhere it is needed. Now that probably won't cause a catastrophic failure today or tomorrow, but do that time and time again and that little bit of wear could add up and shorten the life of your engine.
The Baxter Performance Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter replaces the cartridge filter with an adapter that accepts a spin-on oil filter and best of all, the Baxter Performance adapter has a check valve in it that keeps the oil up in the top of the engine, so no more DRY STARTS!
2014+ Baxter Spin-On Filter www.northridge4x4.com/part/oi...
Baxter drilled a hole and placed a camera inside the oil filter to demonstrate what happens without & with a Baxter: • Cartridge Filter drain...
COMPATIBLE VEHICLES:
Chrysler 200 (2014 - 2017 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler 300 (2014 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler Pacifica (2017 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler Town & Country (2014 - 2016 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler Voyager (2020 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Avenger (2014 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Challenger (2014 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Charger (2014 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Durango (2014 - 2015 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Grand Caravan (2014 - 2020 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Journey (2014 - 2019 V6 3.6L)
Jeep Cherokee (2014 - 2021 V6 3.2L)
Jeep Gladiator (2020 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Jeep Grand Cherokee (2014 - 2015 V6 3.6L)
Jeep Wrangler (2014 - 2020 V6 3.6L)
Ram 1500 (2014 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Ram C/V (2014 - 2015 V6 3.6L)
Volkswagen Routan (2014 V6 3.6L)
2011 - 2013 Baxter Spin-On Filter: www.northridge4x4.com/part/oi...
COMPATIBLE VEHICLES:
Chrysler 200 (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler 300 (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler Town & Country (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Avenger (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Challenger (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Charger (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Durango (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Grand Caravan (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Journey (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Jeep Grand Cherokee (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Jeep Wrangler (2012 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Ram 1500 (2013 V6 3.6L)
Ram C/V (2012 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Volkswagen Routan (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
#baxterperformance #jeepgladiator #pentastar3.6 #baxter
________________________________________________________________________
Timestamps
0:00 Intro
1:54 The Baxter Spin-on Oil Filter Adapter
2:46 How to Install
5:43 O-Rings & Pipe plug
6:38 Locking the cleat
7:05 Schrader valve fitting
7:59 Wix 57045 Oil Filter
8:29 Priming the Engine
11:20 Changing the Engine Oil
12:44 Outro
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Авто/Мото
2014+ Baxter Spin-On Filter www.northridge4x4.com/part/oil-filters/ms-201-bk-baxter-performance-cartridge-to-spin-on-oil-filter-adapter
COMPATIBLE VEHICLES:
Chrysler 200 (2014 - 2017 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler 300 (2014 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler Pacifica (2017 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler Town & Country (2014 - 2016 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler Voyager (2020 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Avenger (2014 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Challenger (2014 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Charger (2014 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Durango (2014 - 2015 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Grand Caravan (2014 - 2020 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Journey (2014 - 2019 V6 3.6L)
Jeep Cherokee (2014 - 2021 V6 3.2L)
Jeep Gladiator (2020 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Jeep Grand Cherokee (2014 - 2015 V6 3.6L)
Jeep Wrangler (2014 - 2020 V6 3.6L)
Ram 1500 (2014 - 2022 V6 3.6L)
Ram C/V (2014 - 2015 V6 3.6L)
Volkswagen Routan (2014 V6 3.6L)
2011 - 2013 Baxter Spin-On Filter: www.northridge4x4.com/part/oil-filters/ms-101-bk-baxter-performance-cartridge-to-spin-on-oil-filter-adapter
COMPATIBLE VEHICLES:
Chrysler 200 (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler 300 (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Chrysler Town & Country (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Avenger (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Challenger (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Charger (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Durango (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Grand Caravan (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Dodge Journey (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Jeep Grand Cherokee (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Jeep Wrangler (2012 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Ram 1500 (2013 V6 3.6L)
Ram C/V (2012 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Volkswagen Routan (2011 - 2013 V6 3.6L)
Have a Dry star on charger
This adapter
Ship to Puerto Rico?
THis also my problem with the start stop technology,
The kit is a good idea but the mod and wix filter!! Is all the dealership needs to void engine waranty!!
Awesome!!
You lied in your video. The o rings are in fact a wear item. They must be changed once in a while. Be honest or don't make the video.
I've been a hydraulic mechanic in the oil field for 6yrs and NEVER thought of using a closed end wrench like that to tighten that 90 degree fitting in a tight space. WOW!!
That one was a new for us too, but thanks to Baxter Performance, we'll be using it from here on out!
That's was a nice method
That’s a new one and made this whole video worth watching even though I don’t have anything with this engine
it can way overtorque fittings so watch out. the reason small niches were made for fitting was the right size tool. that also being said as a mechanic i realized weird ass size 12 point sockets fit every tap and die you could imagine. so in limited space you could literally tap almost any hole if you could drill it. wrench/ratchet wrench can work just like the socket.
7:06 for anyone looking
In the late 60s and early 70s Lee Oil Filters were popular and successful. Chrysler came out with a service bulletin saying NOT to use Lee Oil Filters due to the Filter allowing Oil to drain out of the Filter and basically every time you started your engine the Oil pump had to refill the Filter and it was a dry start . Here we are in 2023. Some things never change. Good info !
The whole time I was wondering what a mess it would be to swap out a vertically mounted oil filter. Very clever solution.
It is pretty cool. After we blew it down the first time, we thought the same thing, very clever.
Yeah this mod might be the lifesaver for this horribly designed oil system
Just got around to this last weekend. Pretty straightforward. I don't have a 15/16 ratchet, so went with an adjustable C wrench for getting the shrader valve installed. Also I couldn't quite get the thread lock adjusted to a place where I faced zero resistance screwing in / out, but doesn't look like any threads are damaged either.
Just PERFECT!!! I had the oil starvation problem, replaced the cam and damaged parts and driving out of the mechanic I traded it. I would have kept it if I knew about Baxter. 😳🙄🙄🙄🙄 it was my favorite vehicle ever.
So I have been looking into this Baxter for a while now and finally just got mine installed like yesterday. I got my JT launch edition used but in great condition around 21000k miles. I notice the weird sound every time I cranked to start the vehicle. Took to the dealership and was told it’s normal, “how the engine sounds for this 3.6L”. But I everyday it starts to bother me to the point where I am reluctant to the start the car knowing that it would give me this “metal to metal” kind of sound at the crank. So I started to do my own little research and found your channel, which is extremely useful especially in this particular scenario. So I decided to ordered but it was back ordered. It finally came in yesterday and installed immediately. To my surprise, that weird metal to metal sound at the crank up simply GONE!! So I just want to add my personal experience, hopefully it helps other viewers. I do sympathize the cost of it though like everyone else mentioned . However, for my scenario, eliminating that weird sound each time I started the car, it is much worth it already, let alone whatever the benefit it is claimed to have which is remains to be determined.
Thank you for such a detailed and helpful video instruction. From one happy jeeper 😊
Thats great @esmpmedia8586! Glad it helped out.
once you hear sound, it's over. it's just a matter of time. Just like a wheel bearing going bad. No matter how much grease you put on it, once it starts to go, it's over.
@@user-qx1wl2um2kthat is correct
Some days I hope my 3.6 blows up so it will force me to V8 swap it.
It will.😂😂
@@ImpalaSS08 well it is a dodge so it's bound to happen sooner than later lol.
I feel this
My 99 Xj has almost 420,000 miles and it's just like new.....THE 4.0 XJ BEAST!!
Yep! It’s on my list to do
Honestly, I got the tick around 40,000 miles on my JK, took it to have the rockers replaced and the guy at the shop recommended l just use 5W20 high mileage oil with an additive and change every 3000 miles (no more). The ticking stopped after less than 500 miles and hasn't been back at all !!!! Over 100,000 now. I swear it was like a miracle ! True story ! I hope this helps someone.
I would totally buy this if I had a 3.6L. Will keep this in mind if I do buy one. Great video!
So I've worked on a number of different 3.6 pentastar. Best thing you can do for any pentastar is run 5w 30 in my personal and just checked the valve train, and it's as tight as day one. Both my kids jeeps have had to do the top end do to running light weight oil. So in my opinion, run the 5w30. The only reason the use a lighter weight oil, is slightly better fuel mileage. Which equals about a mile or two out of a tank of fuel
Had 200,000 miles on my minivan with the same engine. It used 5w30. Never had an engine issue at all, always used the original style filter
I ran 5w20 in winter 5w30 in summer
This is something I have been considering. Have a ‘16 WK2 with 98K miles, and still runs great. I have been causing M1 0-w20 with Wix filters from its first oil change. But, the entire time I have wondered if the oil might be a little thin.
Wish I had done this before valve train failure on mine.
I've been doing the same since my engine hit 20K miles. Now sitting at 75K miles, and I never have any knocking noises like I did when it was on 0w20. I always run full synthetic
why not just pre oil like you showed, which is a cool hack I didn't know about? $330 plus for an oil filter adapter? That I have to use an air compressor to change oil? That forces all the oil I'm supposedly saving out of the oil galleys? That I then have to pre oil when oil change is complete, right? Because all the oil is out of the galleys per the air being injected? Why not just use the pre oil step without the adapter? This might be a thing on 1st and 2nd gen 3.6, but the 2018 version and beyond have been built to prevent wear noted in earlier designs. I'm on my 4th 3.6, all versions, over 250,000 miles between them all, only one to tap a little was the 2013 3.6. Fixed with lucas low viscosity modifier additive.
Unless it your wife's vehicle and you know damn well she not going to prime the oil before she goes to get her nails and hair done.
Great Video, I like that you show all the steps from install to oil change
Thanks for the props!
Wow! Terrific explanation of the Baxter!
I’d like to consider doing the adapter change in the future.
You torqued the hell out of everything !
Just the way Baxter Performance recommends!
Great idea, think i might just keep on driving my old 500 dollar xj with the 4.0 i6.
Simple motor for a simple guy😁
I have almost 420,000 miles on the 99 XJ BEAST
@bobquattrini1787 wow, ya they are amazing vehicles, regular maintenance and they just keep running
Always better off with an inline engine!
The 4.0s are legendary!
Installed this little jewel 0n my '17 Willys and my start up tick went away almost immediately! Great product!!
Great to hear!
Just had one put in my wife's Wrangler. IT WORKS AS ADVERTISED, so much that my mechanic put one in his wife's Jeep!!!
That's awesome!
The problem with the rockers are a roller bearing failure and lifter failure, not a oil starvation issue, Most failures I see are customers that aren’t on top of maintenance. Just had a jk come in 4qts low on oil. This seems more like a solution to a problem that isn’t a problem.
Not true, my wifes 2015 is a mall crawler and its been maintained by the dealer from day one to include oil changes and hers started ticking at 74k.
@@darryljacobs4090 You got one of the lemons..
This failure comes from the lack of lubrication upon start up over time.. The rockers and rollers and right up there at almost the highest point, every time this engine starts those parts starve for oil for a couple seconds or so. I regularly change the oil on my 2012 and can hear that clacking start up for the first 2-3 seconds every day I start it for the first time..
@@outwiththem When they're all lemons, you're guaranteed to get lemon.
@@scdevon iF YOU ARE A LIME, YOU WILL ATRACT LEMONS.
I run 5 quarts of 5-30 Semi Synthetic and 1 Quart of Lucas.... No issues and it runs cooler, and all my cam sensor codes vanished. most 3.6 issues with the valve train are caused by running the 5-20 crap oil. The cam phasers love the 5-30
Appreciate this, because of this video I’ll be ordering one.
How did it work?
I've got a jeep wrangler 2013 model and I put Valvoline 5.20 oil and Lucas synthetic high mileage and nock on wood my 3.6 is doing 👌 great. And I live in Tennessee
This looks like a solution in search of a problem.
Or a solution to a problem that you'll know when it happens to you.
100% BS snake oil. Completely unnecessary with a quality and properly spec'd oil.
@@lovetopew9054And a guaranteed oil mess to clean up at every oil change! Garbage design!
Holding a puck of oil in the filter location does what? Nothing. You still need time to let the oil goes into the places
Yeah, my thoughts exactly. Just keeping up on regular maintenance is all you need.
This makes great sense. I'm getting one. Thank you
Don't waste your money , it will give you worst issues trust me I bought it and huge regret . It damaged the rocker worst
2012 Avenger,3.6L.145k miles. Always used full synthetic,(Mobile,now Pennzoil). Changed every 6k miles. No issues. Good power,decent mileage. Just normal valve train mechanical noise.
Few times a year added Marvel Mystery Oil to supplement cleaning internal components. Strong, smooth engine.
Just change oil regularly and keep at full mark level.
Great video and solution to an issue
This Baxter Performance device is INGENIOUSLY BRILLIANT !!! My problem is that I have an old 3.7 that keeps on running, and running and running .... and with NO signs of 'dropping' its valve seats ........ yet.
‘16 WK2, 98,000 miles, and still running great.
2008 JKU with a plow @ 298,000 miles.
That's been known to happen....
That later generations (2014+) seem to have much less issues with that.
My daughter has an ‘07 GC with the 3.7 and 180K miles and purrs like a kitten…
@@jlautomotive6349I'll bet she does. She must be pretty Hot 🔥
The rockers have needle bearings though, they should hold oil in them. A two stroke engine survives with just a mist of oil blowing around thanks to using needle and roller bearings that retain some oil film.
Very informative, learned alot. Thank you.
The video convinced me so I clicked the link. Holy guacamole, $342! I guess I'll continue to "clear flood" before starting. I've done this for years. Accelerator to the floor and turn the key...let turn for 3 seconds and then let go of the accelerator and the Jeep starts. If someday I do decide to buy, I will go through Northridge as I've done for plenty of mods for my Wrangler to help it when offroading.
Does the "clear flood" work on a 2016 Wrangler ? It's a good idea. I run synthetic oil too. Lately I've been working from home. If my Wrangler sits for two weeks I hear a VVT rattle. It lasts for a seconds and clears up. Other than that if I drive every day, every other day or once per week, no problem at all.
@@jerrynormandin2892that's normal and not a reason to be concerned
Cool product, but when our JK's have been sitting for a while, I just use the "Plug Clear Mode" to prime the oil system and then start the engine. Works every time for FREE!!!
What’s the plug clear mode?
The pentastar is a very stout motor, even with the oil cooler leak. Probably one of the most reliable motors on the market right now.
I would go THAT far. Definitely a top ten engine currently in production.
I’m on my fourth one and love it
It’s true
I've got a bazillion miles across 3 vehicles with this engine. Totally bombproof, the small Block Chevy of this millenia
@@Nastyhabitz "Your results may vary"
Just make sure you keep the original oil filter used and the original cap on hand if you need to have warranty service done, as you want to reinstall the original components before you bring it in, as they will use that as an excuse to deny warranty service if an engine component fails.
Great idea! Like removing your Tazer before taking it in.
I’ve seen some recommend using 3 qts 5W20 and 3 qts of 5W30, so in essence 5W25.
Man... I had to have my cams, lifters, and rockers replaced last month.... I had to reverse SO MANY things before taking it in.
This is a great addition, but it's a little steep imho. Also, great trick with the 90 degree valve and ratchet wrench.
Yeah, I agree that price point is a bit too rich for my blood. Nothing against it, its actually pretty cool, just too pricy for me.
Nice work
Thanks for sharing this information 🛠️💪🏼🙏🇺🇸
Glad you liked it.
I have seen lots of engines that use this type of system but have never seen real world stats on how these help or hurt those engines. But its your money, so use it where you think its best spent.
I put Dura Lube in my old jeep. Is extra lubrication for cold starts. Like a film on the surface. Yes it works, I use it on my small airplane too.
Having a good oil film on everything is great.
The bigger issue with newer engines is getting enough volume and pressure to get the cam phasers and timing chain tensioners up to operating pressure.
If I had a 3.6, would definitely buy.
As soon as I heard the rocker/lifter tick on my 2013 JKUR, I stopped driving it and a few days later I did the work to replace all of them with the new "improved" rockers and lifters. Guess what? After sitting for several days, the rockers and cam shafts still had a coating of oil on them. I use a high quality oil - Penzoil Ultra Platinum but have also used Amsoil. Those are the only two I would use and are the highest quality rated oils you can buy. Still got the tick. Anyway, this initially sounded interesting but I"m just not sold on the "engineering". The Pentastar 3.6 isn't the best engine, but it's not terrible. I've got 130k on my almost daily-driven, Arizona off-roaded 2013 JKUR. I do all the work, don't skip maintenance, and fix problems as soon as they come up. It still runs like new.
Did you end up replacing the rockers again? I am currently dealing with the same issued off a brand new rebuild
@@abraxishalliwell9645 Nope. Just the one time. No issues since then.
Wow didnt actually know this, good to know!
Luv my 3.6 !
Late model JKs have an engine cover that will not allow this oil filter device to be used unless the cover is left off. While the OEM filter does not have a check valve to prevent draining, it would appear the engine oil pump is more than adequate to suipply what ever oil is needed shortly after start up since over 10 million of these engines have been built and it doesn't appear oil related failures with the OEM filter is an issue!
Many issues with lifters and scored cams
I think that no start priming process should be good enough but then your starter could go to 💩
I’ve had issues with ram lifters, rods, and cam but only after 250k miles and religious oil changes. I think regular maintenance will not give us any problems
That’s incorrect though… rocker arm failure at random intervals is by far the most common (and arguably the ONLY common) failure on the Pentastar engine; and that’s believed to be caused by needle bearing failure due to lack of lubrication. The argument is that since the oil drains back down to the pan while sitting, the valve train remains un-oiled for the first 4ish seconds upon every single start up, which obviously accelerates wear and exacerbates the rocker arm failure.
This product attempts to help save these rocker arms.
@@mcspartan5822 There has never been a published total number of rocker arm failure for the Pentastar 3.6 engine so it is difficult to tell the total population involved. But certainly enough for a class action law suit against Stellantis.
While the rocker arms do fail, there hasn't been any analysis other than they failed and it is unknown whether it is attributed to oil starvation, poor or improper heat treat, failure of the parent metal of the needle bearings due to any number of reasons. So to say the rocker arms failed because of oil starvation is jumping to conclusions without all the facts!
There are other engine manufacturers that use the cartridge filter design as on the Pentastar 3.6 which the oil inside the filter housing can drain back to the crankcase once the engine is shut off. None of those engines have a check valve either because if they did, you would need a method, as in this aftermarket unit, to use compressed air to force the oil inside the filter housing out so you don't make a complete mess when you turn the housing loose! And in those other engines, I haven't heard of one engine failure attributed to oil starvation!!!
While this after market solution certainly doesn't hurt, it doesn't prove that the rocker arm failures on the Pentastar 3.6 was attributed to oil starvation! If you have data that prove otherwise, please share!
not to worry, 20234 JL 3.6 does not even come with engine cover.
Been just starting my 3.6 normally since Oct. 2011 until now and never had an issue with anything engine or oil related. Still have the same starter and only changes the battery once since then. Still runs like a champ.
What’s the mileage?
2014 ditto
@@kingchris447 161k
Same with my '14 ram. Since 2017, anyway. Still using original battery from 2014! I do notice the ticking noise in the first few seconds but it rapidly subsides. I'm back and forth on getting this part...
The numbers on the cap are for newer engines only. I use thicker oil on my 100k miles engine. And Duralube every other oil change. No oil used at all.
2014 3.6 JKU. Driver side cams and followers at 100k. Oil Filter housing, cams and followers on the passenger side at 200k. I now have a blown head gasket at 305k. The life time Chrysler warranty has been a life saver so far. 2 heater cores and 3 radiators along the way too.
Awesome that you have the lifetime warranty. Sounds like that has saved you big $$$.
@@northridgenation. Yeah, I made bank on the warranty at $2300.
how much money have you spent at the dealers doing the service that is required ?
@rodgood Zero. I do my own oil changes and have all the receipts. I use Chrysler approved full synthetic oil at less than the required intervals. My dealer called me out on that at 100k for the first set of cams, and I told him, look in the glove box. That was the end of that.
@@CRABlife-iv6fv . Probably not. It's a heat treating issue. The cams are too soft.
This is a good idea for the 2nd gen 3.6 because they have variable lift intake rockers and they fail at a alarming rate,destroys the intake cam lobes mostly the pass side head.
-_- I feel this. 2nd grandcherokee with this problem lol
My 2016 Chrysler 3.6 had rocker failures on both sides . I had to change to both cams on the driver side (bank 2) and one on the passenger side (bank 1).
Nearly 200k miles on mine, runs great.
There are so many 3.6 Pentastar engines in vehicles out there, the problems are magnified. The engine has been out a long time…nearly 14 years…and used in the Wrangler, Gladiator, Grand Cherokee, Challenger, Charger, 300, Grand Caravan, Pacifica, RAM 1500, and the smaller 3.2L Pentastar used in other Chrysler models. With that many engines out there…yeah, a few have the cam lobes / lifter problem but most do not. Change your oil regularly; it’s a great engine.
How is this problem diagnosed? What are the symptoms?
He is Correct, 60% of wear on any engine is from start up. Having a high Quality synthetic motor oil like Amsoil Signature series 100% synthetic Clings to metal surfaces...
You are 100% correct , but the 60% of wear is more in bearing surfaces like rod and crank and cam bearings not valve train like he is saying..👍
No, a pressurized pre-oiler run by a motor is the answer.
@@BigEightiesNewWaveif it was a serious issue, they probably would have it even high end motors don’t have them.
@@johnmadsen37 there’s no money in the cure.
I run Amsoil Signature Series 10W30 in my wife's 2018 Cherokee, it has the 3.2 Pentastar
You all will say it has no horsepower, but the 3.8 in my Jeep has 255k miles. One intake gasket leaked a little antifreeze. THAT'S IT . Newer does not mean better .
We didn't say the 3.8 was a bad engine, that said, the 3.6 does has better power and efficiency.
I have a coolant leak on my 2020 3.6 gladiator. I smell it on cold start up at exhaust. What were the signs of the intake gasket leak? Dealer couldn’t find the cause(no oil In coolant and no coolant in oil, and no pressure loss in cooling system supposedly.) the smell and my coolant reservoir being low says otherwise. Runs good tho so they said drive it till it throws a code unfortunately.
I have a 1989 Isuzu Trooper with a GM 2.8 (now 3.1) V-6. Those geniuses have the oil pressure switch that has to have oil pressure before the engine will start much less run. My Ford 460 has a manual choke on the carb and I will crank the engine for a second or two for oil pressure to come up before I pull it out to start. Too bad I cannot do anything for my Jeep Wrangler; btw I had a major manufacturers oil filter fail its anti-drainbsack valve where it drained the oil in the valve train and crank back through the filter and oil pump.
Logic dictates that oil will stay above the check value. Which as you state is in the new filter adapt. So any oil in the cooler will drain back to the pan as it is below the check valve.
I was thinking that too. But at least what is in the filter and adaptor is more than what occurs from factory 🤷🏻♂️
I had a Ford truck straight 6 cylinder. I installed a external electric prelube oil pump when new. I got 350,000 miles out of the engine and was still fine when I sold it. Start up is a engine killer till oil pressure comes up. Also change oil at half the recommended intervals. Transmission fluid at 40,000 mark. The rear oil too. Use the best oils and filters. Use magnets.
The old 300? Those Ford straight 6s were awesome!
Yep the 300.@@northridgenation
An old ad from years ago “Starting your engine is terrible thing to do”
Those Viton O-rings means it's quality.
Great video!
Thanks!
You also should buy that aftermarket aluminum filter housing and factory plastic ones leak oil into the lifter valley and I heard they can also leak water into the engine, at least on the minivans
That seems to be a common problem with high mileage 3.6s.
@@northridgenation our 2018 Pacifica filter housing was leaking but that's the least of its problems 67,000 mi and it needs a new engine because it started drinking coolant and it's never been overheated and well maintained
This happens on every single one of these motors. I've probably installed 30 or 40 of those oil coolers in the last two years. I'm just an independent repair shop
@mastermnd22 Yup, I'm on board. Before installing a replacement engine, the oil cooler housing will be upgraded as well as the cartridge to oil filter can conversion also. This should make the second iteration of my rig full of a lot more peace of mind! Oh! Don't forget the E3 spark plugs!
great idea
Always use liquid Teflon thread sealant on pipe plugs
Two questions. You were showing a metal oil filter holder/cooler where the Jeep JK has a plastic one. Being plastic it does have a tendency to crack and start leaking as I have heard. Wouldn’t this device put more strain on the plastic since it sits higher and would probably vibrate back and forth more? You were demonstrating with a Jeep JL. What modifications do you need to do to the JK to install this? Aren’t there better oils out there that tend to cling to the engine parts after oil drains away and reduce wear until fresh oil is pumped to the parts?
Great questions.
1) Yes, the plastic ones tend to develop leaks as they get older. The metal one we had was an aftermarket replacement.
2) Yes, that could add more strain to the plastic bowl, if you have a higher mileage engine, it might be a good time to replace that oil cooler. They take a while to do, but it's not too hard. Maybe we should do a video how-to?
3) The JK 3.6 is pretty much the same, except they have those hoses I mentioned that you need to move out of the way. Make sure to get the correct year adapter for your JK.
4) Yes, there are good oils out there, but they all will eventually drain away.
A good oil leaves a film. An engine won’t even have any compression without oil on the cylinder walls
@@northridgenation I would very much like to see how this is done on a JK as I own one and I can hear the valves ticking each time I start the vehicle until they get oiled. Which is approximately a few seconds. When I first realized what the ticking was and what I knew was occurring I brought my 2014 JKU to the dealership and after much arguing I walked out. I’m pleased to see that my point is validated by this video.
I’m looking forward to the new video. And I will purchase one!! Thanks.
Looks like a good product. But lets not forget that good synthetic oil are designed to provide lubrication on these dry starts. It would be interesting to know the amount of engine failures on engines using synthetic vs standard oil.
We are 100% in agreement with you. The Baxter adapter is a great product, BUT people need to use a good quality oil and filters 1st and foremost!
No they arent… no more than any other oil
@@northridgenation My 2015 3.6 Pentastar had 205,000 miles on it when I traded it in. I used Mobil 1 Synthetic and the OEM Filter. In all of those miles I never had a single failure in the engine. I replaced one wheel speed sensor while I owned the vehicle. I think the 3.6 is a pretty good engine at least when it's left stock.
I work for a fleet that has some of these engines in the vehicles we have. They all start failing at around 80-90k miles and we change the oil every 3500 miles. It isnt lack of maintenance just piss poor design.
I run mobile one full synthetic and Fram filters in our 3.6 in a 2018 JL Wrangle. Engine went out at 38k. Stelantis then changed the engine THREE TIMES in that same year due to faulty rebuilds. Third replacement is doing well so far. I do notice a clatter when dry starting in colder temps just like the original engine did. I'm going to order this kit and see if that makes a difference.
Same engine as used in the premium grade Chrysler 200.
Poweful in a sedan sized car with variable drive train.
Replaced oil filter / cooler housing and intake gaskets; housing mount seals leaking coolant and oil.
Ran smoother after intake gasket change; must have had small intake air leak.
i mark my filter with a white marker pen then count 10 complete turns. on my first install on my 2021 wrangler i had to make a metal plate to remount the little compressor next to the filter to get it out of the way of the new filter .its a jl 3.6
Finally an alternative that will allow me to install an oil cooler to help minimize over heating.
Yep, this one right here will do that:
www.northridge4x4.com/part/oil-filters/mr-202-bk-baxter-performance-cartridge-to-remote-oil-filter-adapter
My C300 Mercedes 3.5 v6 has the same style filter and location as my 2015 Wrangler v6, I bet this design came from Mercedes when they owned Jeep.
Nice conversion adapter 8:11
I like this product do you have a video for a 2021 dodge charger
Sorry we don't have a video showing it in a Charger. BUT don't let that stop you, the installation is pretty much the same. Just in a Charger, not a Jeep.
The higher the mileage, the higher the number of oil visc to use. Dont use too thin new engine oil on non new engines. Older engines have wear out have more space between parts so they need thicker oil. ASE Certificated engine Mechanic for 36 years
Give me a year range and mile range, for example 2012-2013 jeep Wrangler 146,000km or 150,000km
@@ajanithomas6750 depens.
If your manufacturer demands 0w30 and the engine approaches 150.k miles I'd change to thicker oil like 5w30
I get what you're saying but using a thicker oil viscosity on a high mileage motor........wouldn't that hinder for slight poor fuel mileage?
@@Kiddro22 it compensates for wear on the engine.
The higher the milage / the higher the tolerances in the bearings get.
That means less oil pressure at the bearings and will cause more wear.
So it's good to go for higher viscosity oil when the engine is worn out to keep it safe
@@NinoJoel Right. The numbers on the cap are for newer engines only.
Sometimes I feel sad for my JKU 3.slower (3.8L) then I see all the issues in the 3.6 and everything goes away and and happy again 😊
160k on the odometer and still running strong, slow, but strong 😅 . Only major issues:
Torque converter replaced with tranni oil pressure solenoid,
All the O2 sensors. That’s it .
The 3.8 does seem to get a lot of hate, but there are still a lot of them out there, slogging it out day after day.
I had a 3.8 that drank oil like it was going out of style.
wow good to know , thank you !!
Happy to help!
Excellent video. Like'd and sub'd.
Good idea only question is do you do your oil changes yourself?
Yes, we do our own oil changes. For those who have the dealer do the oil changes, it would be best to talk to them first, make sure they are fine with using a different filter.
Chrysler really has something against properly oiling their valvetrains.
I installed Baxter's device on my Chrysler200 with the pentastar v6 after I installed an all aluminum oil cooler. No more valve rattle on start-up. Hopefully I saved it with only 52k miles on it.
Keep us updated!
That's a neat feature. Some oil filters have a valve inside as well.
Makes me wonder tho wy these engines have such a problem with the dry starts.
My 40 year old Audi has over half a million miles with dry starts and is still fine
Older engines have less problems. It's all the new cam phasers, timing chain tensioners and other items that need both oil volume and pressure to operate properly.
Does anybody know which, if any oil FILTERS , actually have an Anti-drain back valve in the filter itself, that fit the 2011 3.6?
Interesting. I was waiting for half the items you tightened to snap off!
😆
I'm sure it's just perspective but it looks like you really drove them home 😮
@@MyGoogleRUclips Kevin over at Baxters said to have at it, he wasn't worried about over tightening it and they've done a ton of these installs.
As a machinst ....way to tight especially the thread lock cleat...hand torque is an art.
The First Gen 3.6 had a problem with oil Galley plugs backing out,what would happen is that the oil pressure would drop on the valvetrain and the oil would over saturate the timing cover area,there are 2 plugs on each head.This causes oil starvation in the valvetrain area.chewed cam lobes,and roller.rocker damage.
Do the newer Pentastar engines have any issues?
Ya they Chew up Intake cam lobes its a variable lift rocker right side more then left,dont know why?But it happens alot!@@joeshmoe8952
Right side facing me or right side facing you? Drivers side or passenger side? @@falkon215
Used to valve train noises on cold starts for about 2 seconds,,, Changed mopar oil with higher quality full synthetic 5w20 no noises anymore
Mopar oil is actually Pennzoil that get's branded Mopar. If they use ultra platinum and not straight platinum oil mix from Pennzoil than there is not really a "higher quality" oil. Amsoil maybe? If they are using straight platinum blend than there is better, especially in the cold start/cold climate scenario. All my opinion here ( not talking just about the valve train noise, but about complete protection ), I think the most important thing to do is change the oil every 3K no matter what the oil you are using. We had a Jeep Patriot that started making valve train ticking noise @ 90K. Still going well at 165k +/- and then traded it in due to never really liking the Patriot to begin with. I was not running Mopar oil or ultra platinum when we had this vehicle. I was however nervous over it like everyone should be. Glad to here no more noise though. I hope the additive package in the oil that you are using will do a good job at everything and not just stop the ticking for you and not be as good in other areas if you know what I mean. What oil did you switch to?
Wix filter and Royal purple oil im not going any further than that. I change it myself also so i know its getting torque properly
Wait, you mean I could prime my engine before starting it?
The LS engines take between 5-10 seconds to pump oil to the top of the engine, in the Old school Chevy small blocks, and Hemi engines it can be between 1 minute to 5 minutes. I kind of think this is a solution that may never have had a problem
It's a problem with the newer engines that have cam phasers and hydraulic timing chain tensioners that need both oil volume and pressure to get up and running properly.
None of those engines you listed have those.
@@northridgenation OH that makes sense, mine is a 2015 and I'll go ahead and pick one up when I hit the oil change, why wait for there to be an issue right 👍
AND thank you for the response 👍
That's absurdly FALSE information.
I have a 2015 ram and the 3.6 engine absolutely sucks this is the reason why I will never buy ram truck's ever again
This whole thing explains the REAL problem behind that rocker arm thing-no oil at startup.
These are much better with the remote filter mount. Don't need to mess around with the valve, air pressure etc.
This package inherently had valve train issues when it 1st came out due to a flaw in the heads.
So I have to trim the intake manifold what could possibly go wrong!
It was easy, you can do it!
My 2018 JL rubicon makes a lot of noise at start up been doing that from day one currently has 36k on it. Always figured something ain’t right noise stops after a few seconds. Also in the summer whit AC on and the engine fan comes on it’s the loudest thing I’ve ever heard sounds like a freight train,
my challenger with 22k miles sounds the same. just like a whining noise
Oh nice. Put compressed air into your oil pick up tube to aerate the oil.
Just hold the gas pedal to the floor when you go to start it.....
It will not attempt to start when you do that, and then you can simply crank it for a bit until the oil pressure builds. Then let off the pedal and it will start normally with oil pressure already built-up.... 🤷
We show how to do that in the video.
@@northridgenation I saw that.... I was a little premature with my comment there. 🍻
So if using "clear plug mode" works to lubricate the upper valve train at cold starts, why would you not just use this clear plug mode when starting cold as opposed to modifying the oil filter setup to achieve the same results you can achieve for free?
@JohnWalkerCharlotte You don't get it...
You'd STILL be cranking the engine with ZERO oil or oil pressure. Also, it would be VERY hard on the starter to be doing this EVERY time you start the engine.
If you do the filter mod, it KEEPS the oil from draining back to the pan every time you shut it off, and you ONLY have to do the "clear plug routine" WHEN you change your oil and filter to reprime the system.
My 2012 wrangler has 135K trouble free miles with the stock oil cooler housing. I did have the recalled head changed at around 24k miles back in early 2014. other than that, I've had no problems so far using Mobil 1 oil. I do have the doorman aluminum oil cooler on hand though to replace my brittle plastic cooler.
Does the Doorman have the oil drain back valve so it it keeps oil up in the engine too?
No, they do not.
One good point to make, if you have one of the earlier JK models with a plastic oil cooler housing, is to go ahead and upgrade that whole piece to an aluminum one. Just had mine blow and found out this is essentially guaranteed to happen due to the cheaper part. Might as well upgrade that if adding this adapter. Already upgraded mine and definitely going to add this adapter. Thank you for the educational video!
We definitely recommend the aftermarket aluminum filter housings.
This a interesting video.
Pretty sad all this new technology and these companies keep making engines less and less reliable.
I like the screw on filter, but how does it come off without the oil draining on top of the motor when you break it loose
I see now, the one for my 4 runner don't have the air valve
First thought I had...
😮
Apply air to the Schrader valve, the oil bleeds down and the filter comes off dry.
@@northridgenation But what side of the oil filter is the oil being pushed back into the oil pan? If it's from the dirty side where all of the debris collects, it's going to go right into the new oil filter at start up.
@@rolliehunt5173 What little bit does, will blow back into the pan, then drain out when you drain the oil.
I can see how the check cable keeps the oil in the filter when the engine is off but how does it keep the oil in the cooler when that check valve is before it? Ie between the check value and the engine
What exhaust are you running on this Jeep? (Sounds perfect!!)
AWE "Trail Edition" Cat-back: www.northridge4x4.com/part/cat-back-exhausts/36-jt-trailpkg-awe-trail-edition-cat-back-exhaust-package
Does the engine have to be primed every time you do an oil change?
Must be yes.
The 2.7 in the new bronco has the same style oil filter system….I bought a similar set up from Baxter for it!
With all the Knowledge of engines and what causes damage , I don’t understand why manufactures design stuff like this?
It just doesn't make sense.
We'll be doing a Bronco kit soon.
We sell and stock the bronco kit :)
@@maxxpehling I’ve put this kit on both our broncos with the 2.7.. first mod I did to each
I assume this will work on a Pacifica. But will this particular Wix filter rub the underside of the hood? Looks like a good addition to the Penta motor.
If the filter is too tall, they do make a remote filter kit, that you can use to move the filter to a better location.
www.northridge4x4.com/part/oil-filters/rj-404-cp-baxter-performance-pentastar-3-6l-cartridge-to-remote-adapter-and-6-port-remote-mount-combo-pack
Why not also provide a new dipstick with correct fill marks? Low levels would be easier to check.
That would add more price to the kit.
I wonder how some lucas oil compares to this. Or if blowing air through the filter would blow debris caught by the filter back into the oil.
It will help keep the oil pump pick-up screen clean.
Isn't this true for almost all vehicles? Oil will drain back and this is the reason for 0w oils to allow for faster supply to the cylinder heads. But a nice advertisement for Baxter and basically that is what this is an advertisement.
My dads TJ as seen on my channel jeepNdirt (Everyday TJ video) has over 220k on the 4.0. The JL's 3.6 while different from the 4.0 have similar sounds at start up. Back in the day synthetics were marketed as "the super oil that bonds to metal and help prevent premature wear". Anyone remember Slick 50, lol..... That said our JL's and JT's call for synthetic oil to begin with so does that mean synthetics no longer protect our engines? As an Engineer, I don't disagree with products that help and provide benefits, but in this case does it make sense for the cost of what it's selling for? Are there that many problems with the 3.6 valve train? For me I'd be more interested if anytime I see someone promoting this product they also provide facts, data, numbers that support the issues, causes and or concerns. If someone was proving or showing that out of say a million 3.6s sold in the last few years that 30 or 40 % of them had valve train issues then I'm more likely to consider this product and or promote it myself on my channel. Lol. But seriously it appears to be a product that does what it says it's going to do and it maybe it should be considered as "cheap insurance", but as someone below mentioned where's the long term testing info and or as I suggest where's the data that makes us as 3.6 consumers want to spend money on this vs our suspension or other jeep stuff. Not bashing here, just posing a question.
Just google or YT Pentastar valvetrain issues, you'll see plenty results.
Then Google Pentastar oiling diagram.
The bad rocker arms did it to me at 97k miles. So if this problem was the oil getting up there then I'd buy it. But i haven't heard that it was.
My dads 2013 has 180k on it and he's always went to local lube shop, so who knows what oil they were using. At 120k I replaced the cooler cause o rings blew out of plastic.. I think issues are from short stop and start trips. The us mail service has a ton of vans with this motor. The ones that run all day no issues, the ones that deliver to condos and businesses where frequent starts and stops short runs, seem to have the valve train issues. But not often
Remember the Mobil One adds where they ran an engine with no oil? Well, someone drained the oil out of my mower, and I mowed my acre and a half lawn not realizing what had been done and then next time I mowed my lawn I checked my oil only to find out it was empty, so I filled it with Mobil One again and three years on she's just fine, made a believer out of me. A 19 HP Kawasaki engine.
@@stephenwest798 That's a great example of lubrication. What we want in the top of these engines is oil pressure to get the cam phasers and timing chain tensioner up to pressure and working properly.
You cannot do that with a thin film of oil left over. You need oil volume and pressure.
Man I've ran the same oil for two years now in old 4.0 in my xj crawler last summer i blew a radiator hose and drove it off the trail empty on coolant it got so hot we mekted 3 injector o rings and I've yet to change thd oil after the misshap last year's 4th and have run it the entire summer . this 4.0 has 99k miles on it sits fir weeks without getting started as well ...lol... that minivan motor is weak sauce reliability wise compared to i-6.
I have almost 420K on my 99 Xj Beast!!!! It's a highway monster 💩💀
When you apply air pressure to the valve during oil changes, couldn’t the air pressure force some of the debris that’s caught by that filter back down into the oil passages? Or is that air just forcing itself into the pathways that meet the filter at the filter element?
It is blowing the oil back through the way it came.
As a bonus, it blows the oil pickup screen clean too.