My jeep was ticking just like the one in the video. I ordered the parts and watched the video carefully and my jeep is fixed! Cost me a fraction of what the dealership wanted. Thanks a million!
I love when everything works out the way it should. You got the job done right, save $$ and learn something new. Thank you for watching I do appreciate your comment.
I actually did this to my jeep. Didnt even take the cam bearings out. Just loosened them rolled the crank till the lobe was up on each rocker and pulled the lifters and rockers out individually. Dealership guys will tell you it cant be done this way. But it can. Just have to be careful. My jeep has 40k on it afyer i did it. Been running great. No more engine ticks! Love me some jeeps! Awesome vid!
A couple years ago I carefully watched this video and successfully made the repairs on the driver side. Now it's time for the passenger side... Wish me luck! Thanks for the video!!
Just finished doing the job today! This video was immensely helpful. I was able to create an even shorter shortcut by leaving the cam caps on but fully loose on the bolts and prying accordingly (based on which cam lobe was up or down). Regardless I wouldn't have even tackled this job without this video. Absolutely fantastic. Thank you to the author!
It took me 9-hrs to do the right side, but your video was amazingly helpful. The most difficult part was getting the top screw out of the PCV valve. Other than that it was easy peasy.
Good guy he is honest knows what he's doing I have the same Engine he replaced I had ticking in the engine and even cam shaft needed to be replaced it took about 3 days to repair everything I have no problems now I would recommend this shop you won't be disappointed
@@dyllanfennell1570 Depends, if you changing any camshafts, oil cooler seal kit, or camshaft position sensors. also got to change valve cover gasket, intake manifold gasket upper and lower and all 24 Rocker and 24 tappers. $2k-$3k
God bless good people like you who take the time to share your knowledge and experience! I have a 2015 I bought used a year ago with 54k miles on it. Engine purred like a kitten until about a month ago and I started noticing the ticking sound (around 63k miles). I've never bought an extended warranty in my life until I bought this Jeep. Thank god I did, gonna be taking it back to the dealership soon and hopefully get it fixed under warranty.
@@a2zautomasters862 Please explain what is the problem!! The engine makes a ticking noise okay? Why is that a problem and why does it require a repair?? Please take a moment to explain that in your title and description.
@@chazzcapone. any ticking or knocking noise coming from inside the engine is not a good thing. It’s a sign of wear. Internal engine components are so precise, minimum tolerance and very very small amount of clearance. That noise usually means those very small gaps are getting bigger and that’s very bad. In this case the rocker arms bearing failed and the camshaft rollers are hitting the rocker arm itself and that could cause a massive internal engine damage. I hope that was helpful. Thank you.
Great video! After being quoted $3000-$5000 from multiple mechanics and being told its a 20 hour job, I knocked mine out for a fraction of the cost (in the hundreds $ only) and finished mine in 5 hours taking my time. Thanks for the tricks!
Did this job yesterday on a '15 GC driver's side. Much easier if you roll engine to a little before top dead center, for driver's side, for a more neutral cam position. Keep the magnet away from the rear of the cam, it will destroy the magnetism of the cam position rotors.
What an amazing video! My 2015 Grand Cherokee is doing the same thing. I wouldn’t dare do this myself, but it’s so good to know how this all works so I can at least understand what the mechanic is telling me and that’s he telling me the truth. Thanks so much for creating this video. I wish you much success, bud!
This is an amazing video that guided me through both sides of my 3.6 rocker arm replacement, followed exactly and had zero issues performing the work as shown. For anyone who is about to do this the first time, go easy with the magnet near the back of the cams where the tone wheels are and buy decent parts, I did have to redo a set that were bought from Amazon because the rockers were made out of spec and kept valves open losing all compression. Thanks
I just did this job. Got it all back together and it was super hard to get started, if at all. I'm wondering if I have the same issue you had on the first set you put in. Did it seem like it is flooded? It did crank over a bit strange like low compression.
They had Mopar part numbers but not from dealer. I did pull everything back apart and checked the new ones with the old and the angles were off a bit. Will have to make sure they are right from now on. @@richierich1169
Thank you! I have 2012 Jeep Wrangler JK with 129K miles with the same 'tick tick' engine symptoms, no Check Engine light or anything. I bought all parts needed (OEM parts through MOPAR) to do the job. I spent about $750.00 in OEM parts cause I'm not taking any short cuts or unnecessary risks. I got the same tools you are using in this video and I'm planning on doing this job in early August. I will follow this video step by step like my life depends on it, and report back. Thank you.
Hi, this video is being super helpful. I'm half way done with the arm rocker replacement work. However, by mistake I broke the black plastic line the mechanic is holding @15:52 when trying to place back the top cover. The black line broke just before the yellow marking you see on the video (close to the aluminum connector). Can the line be fixed since it's plastic? Is it difficult to replace the line in question? Please any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and God bless.
Glad i watched this. I was under the impression it was the lifters but upon inspection it was the rocker arm like you showed. Quick work. Running perfect
I've watched probably a dozen videos of this job because I'm getting ready to do this job on my wife's van. I'm so glad I stumbled across this video! You just made this job so much easier! Thank you so very much!
Thank you so much for your video. Between you and another youtuber, I was able to replace a set of (24) rockers, lifters and one cam. I found a rounded left intake cam during. I’ve not had to pull the Battery box before. Your vid helped me with routing of emission and TIPM plugs on assembly. Was a huge reference, thanks again. Good reference for where stuff was before. Always take pics before you disassemble things.
This is a very detailed, excellent demonstration of the job. You have made this complicated fix look very doable for the do it yourself owner. Thank you for the excellent video and the soft background "music."
I used a modified version of this method - Used the cam lock tool / de-tensioning set to de-tension the timing chain. I only locked the cams in place briefly to loosen one end bolt and remove it to inspect it more closely. Overall - This saved a ton of time and I did notice that if you are only doing rockers - there is a "magic spot" in the cam rotation where you can get every single of one of them out without any issue and without moving the cams out of the bearing journals. Unfortunately - I cannot say that for the lifters - you just need a teeny tiny little bit of extra clearance to get them all out - just like in the video. 😁 My screwed up rocker locations - ( I did them all and all the lifters - 81K miles ) Passenger exhaust cam rear - Rear 2 rockers were the worst Passenger intake cam - Next to last rocker Driver Intake and exhaust were mostly ok - one rocker had slightly more wear than all the others - I lost track of where it came from.
Your video is absolutely right on target. This is the only way that I will do it. Now if there is significant damage to the camshaft, that’s another story however, I am a believer that a little wear on the camshaft it’s not going to make a lot of difference.
I’m literally sweating and on the edge of my seat watching this video 🫣 Greta video sir 👏🏽 luckily my 07 jgc laredo 3.7 never had this issues w ticking or knocking just routine maintenance that I’m always on top of 🙏🏽 she just surpassed 226K miles and she still runs like a champ!
@@lstruggy First time was on a January night when the temperature was single digits. Went to start it and instantly heard a noise and check engine light came on. Second time the rocker got caught in the timing chain and broke the head. Nightmare
@@THETOPGLOCK omg 😳 yeah I’m lucky! I wonder if the single digit cold caused that?! She’s mostly lived NorCal, SoCal then Vegas the last 8 years. The Vegas summer heat here really expedited the life of my water pumps and but I have lifetime warranty. My cel came on today p0420 I resetted it but when I got home tonight it came back on again haha my 02 sensors I believe needs to be replace. The other day I put a brand new alternator and a brand new battery all for free from lifetime warranty oreilys & interstate batteries headquarters here in Vegas only 2 yrs old battery went bad cause of mostly 115d heat will do it! 🔥u still got her and what year was her model?
Thank you! For sharing such a great video, was able to fix my jeep. At 60000 mile started having the ticking sound. Took my time and completed the project over the weekend.. My first real project beside changing a starter, water pump and some maintenance.
Had the same issues early last year. Luckily I was under warranty still and Jeep took it in and fixed it. Only had to pay $100 deductible. Glad there's a resource to resolve this problem. Definitely subscribing.
I am sweating watching you do this job. Absolutely amazing how you share this detailed video with us. I would never attempt this by myself but I enjoy learning from your video. 👊👊
2014 85,000 and just started hearing the ticking noise. I’m afraid to go to the dealership since my extended warranty expired. I wish I can have you fix it for me bro. You’re just too good 👍. Can I contact you and have you fix it for me please 🙏?
I have a 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan that has this motor. I’ve done all the work on our vehicles once the years and I’m going to have to do this to ours soon. It has 219,000 miles and it has recently developed that ticking sound. I’ve watched videos on how to do this the ‘recommended’ way, so I was definitely interested in finding out how to do it the quicker way. I’m confident in my skills. Thank you for the info!
Wow Developed @ 219? That’s impressive. I’ve seen this happened as early as 50k miles. Good luck. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment.
Great video man! My 2017 JK has the ticking noise on the passenger side...I picked it up from dealer today for P201/P301 repair. Front seals and 60k service cost $3100. You video give me confidence to replace rockers/pushrods without fear. Thanks for sharing
Huge "Thank You" my man!!!!!!!!!!!!! this video was very well put together, thank you for taking the time to make it . Saved me at least 2000.00$$$$, felt like an intimidating job but the way you broke it down made it seem very do-able for a DIY'er like myself, again very much appreciated, Liked and Subscribed!!!!!!!! no more ticking!!!!!!!!!!!
They have a tool for holding the phasers and releasing the tension on the chain. Removing the chain or phasers completely is never required. Its always a gamble to do it that way as those cam cap bolt holes will strip out and pull all the threads out very easily. Then you end up replacing the head which is a bigger job all together. It takes at most 2 hours with the tools the right way.
Great video man! My 2015 JK had the ticking noise on the passenger side... I followed your directions and watched the video multiple times after ordering the replacement parts. Once they arrived, the job took 12-ish hours to complete spread out over a weekend. MY JEEP IS FINALLY QUIET AGAIN! Thank you for taking the time to make this video and having detailed instructions on what to do! Saved me thousands! I was wondering if you had a video on replacing the CAMS? I could see some wear on the lobe from the bad rocker arm and I know I will need to replace it sooner than later. Was hoping you had another video I could study before diving back in... Thanks in advance!
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. Glad everything worked out. I will be doing a video about that soon, it’s actually being recorded these days hopefully will be posted in couple of weeks. Stay tuned. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
There are other videos that show acceptable vs non acceptable wear on the cam lobes. But if you left it ticking for too long you could have damage to the lobes...I'm not sure how that would manifest itself as the engine runs....probably poor performance due to lower intake or exhaust volume....?
I absolutely love it when a great tech beats book time. Of course the customer is always you charged me x hours for labor and it’s done in half the time. My response to them was always “you’re welcome” “thankfully for you we have qualified techs, who have invested in the tools and knowledge to be able get you back on the road quickly!” 👍🏽🍻
Important bit not clearly shown on video was to loosen the large bracket on the drivers side. The valve cover is very difficult to remove without loosening that bracket. I think it's shown at 5:16 but it isn't mentioned verbally so you have to watch this vid carefully
I'm changing the valve cover gaskets and fixing a leak in one spark plug housing and it was a pain in the ass 😆😆. All I kept seeing online was how complicated the passenger side was
Thank you Thank you Thank you! I took my time and meticulously changed out the rocker arms in my 2015 Jeep JK. Wow, so much money saved. Only $350 ish in parts and tools. Again, I can’t thank you enough!
Thank you for the video!! Between this video and another one I found, I was able to get the knocking to quit. I found two bad rockers and was able to replace them.
Another option is to take the vehicle to trade in before the CEL comes in along with the P0302 code. The result for a non mechanic was Cylinder Head replacement at dealer under the warranty. Service write guy said it would have cost $3,000. Having owned other Chrysler minivans I bought the extended warranty when new. Believe it or not! Yesterday I got the minivan back from the service department after another CEL. Code P0306. Another $3000 cylinder head replacement. Covered by Lifetime Maximum Warranty which Chrysler no longer sells. My 2014 T&C has $10,000 in warranty work since new.
Trade in and then someone else pays 36k$ for a used jeep unlimited sahara.. to have it blowing up 3 days later 🤬 don’t trade stuff in to unload your problem onto someone else.
On the one hand - this is clever and creative. On the other hand... The manufacturer probably knew this was possible but didn't prescribe this as the way to correct the issue. You can argue that ends justify the means, but again I really have to wonder if the manufacturer agrees. That's important to a lot of people because frankly, they should know what they're doing. It may be that their process errs on the side of the 'average' wrench approaching the problem vs. someone who's being careful. That said - you're one slip from gouging a lobe, and you're prying against a sealing surface. The additional break-down may also reveal additional problems that they'd like to avoid. Finally, from a warranty perspective or customer spend perspective - what got paid for the job? The full pop time it takes, or the time suited to the reduced number of steps? I'm not saying don't pay techs for skill - but this isn't purely skill - it IS deviation from the procedure - he says it right in the video. Don't hate - I'm not judging- I'm just asking.
Hey bro thanks a ton for showing this. I had a failed rocker and followed this video. The hardest part of the whole thing was getting the valve cover off and back on. The passenger side is the easy side and it still took a lot of time. I have a Ram 1500 and the passenger side is not covered by the intake manifold.
A competent mechanic can do this in less then 6 hours but for most it'll take longer. Also don't have to drain coolant or unhook the hoses or fuel rail or even the injectors. The battery tray is a pain though and so is the pcv valve (at least on a right hand drive jeep due to the trans dipstick in the way) but either way, it's way cheaper then the stealership.
this is one of the best how to videos i have seen. the splicing, photography, narration, fast forward all great. You should post your mailing address for DONATIONS!
DId the same job on our 2015 which at 80,000 started ticking. Driver's side was the first which I fixed (easier despite removing the upper intake), then the passenger side was ticking. I didn't remove the battery tray and now that I see that you did, i should have for all the wrestling I had to do with the valve cover. My next job will be replacing a leaking oil cooler which doesn't look to daunting. All in all, it seems like a decent engine, with some minor design flaws. The updated rocker followers are totally different on the later models.
That damn ticking. I've fixed it once before and now my Jeep is doing it again. I'm going to check my cams a little closer this time and make sure they aren't damaged before swapping the rockers.
Nicely done. What is causing this wear? What's your take on the oil anti drain mod on the filter? Do you think that is the cause because the oil drains on start up?
I came up with an idea to use my on car valve compressor for this, had to make an adapter to open the valve with everything assembled, it worked just make sure there are no pistons all the way up, did not have to take the cam cap bolts out, that was a wrangler I am doing a T&C now it worked on the front but no room on the back bank, had a bad cam there anyhow, that new tool kit is really a time saver if you have to remove cams Alex the car doctor has a link on his video called rocker replacement with special tool
I appreciate the video. I was wondering why you don't just use the chain holding tool release the tensioners with the wire hook and slide the phasers from the cam so you can remove it ? I feel that method is easier and faster, no?
I actually have several videos on the subject one of them is using the specialty tool. I just want to show that the job can be done with or without specialty tools. Thank you.
Some information from my dad who used to work in Chrysler's warranty department before he passed. The reason these engines are having failing rocker arms in years before 2019 is because the engines were originally designed for 30 weight oil and then were back spec'ed to 20 weight oils because of CAFE fuel economy standards. The problem is that 20 weight oils have a lower HTHS (High Temperature High Sheer) rating which means that there is less ability for the oil to keep parts separated under high load areas of the engines such as in the needle bearings used in these earlier rocker arms before they were switched to a solid large pin (no needle bearing) design in late 2019. You can buy these rocker arms. The MOPAR Part numbers end in AH. Anything earlier than this will still have the needle bearings and not the solid pin. A work around if your engine is lower mileage and not ticking is to choose a 30 weight oil (which the owners manual says you can use) which has as high of a HTHS rating as possible. 30 weight oils will be 2.9 or higher. Amsoil XL for example is the highest I've found at 3.3 HTHS. (Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Engines specify a minimum of 3.5 HTHS for cam loading for this reason) In a 20wt oil it's 2.6 minimum and this is too low to protect these needle bearings. The other thing that you can do to ensure you don't suffer from issues is to not idle your engine too long (lack of oil flow to the top part of the engine). You don't have to take my word for it, but it's an easy change to make to ensure you don't suffer from this in your 2019 and previous Dodge Caravan, Journey or Jeeps that don't use the PUG Gen 3 engines as found in things like the Grand Cherokee, RAM pick-ups, Dodge Durango's (not Promasters or Chargers), These engines with the PUG 3 design have the Variable Vale Lift and use a different Rocker Arm design to accommodate the VVL system and don't suffer from this same problem.
Chrysler is still having the same problems way into the 2020 or so range. No one seems to know for sure, but I'd guess maybe idling too much and extended oil changes.....
Thanks. Doing tomorrow but glad you mentioned front ones don’t go bad so I can hopefully avoid that one or just be more careful, my sound is middle , is there chance that cam got eaten some or unlikely in most cases?
Set the front cam lobe to just before the cam opens the valve. Remove the cam caps then turn the cam so it is fully opening the front valves. This will raise the rear of the cam enough to get the rockers and tappets out. Then turn until the front lobes are up. Pry up on the front of the cam and the front rockers will come out.
I just about died seeing how easy the T30s loosened up for you! I broke at least 3 bits when i did mine. They where crazy tight! I have to do this job again :( Thanks for the video refresher course.
Thank you for being nice and precise,your tutelage was awesome. Probably going to do this with our caravan,was only planning on replacing what I find to be worn, but,after seeing your video I think I can handle doing them all! Thank you for your experience!
This is exactly how I would do it. Lol I knew what he was going to do before he even did it. Just bring the cam up a little bit. Just be sure to torque everything back to factory spec. 👍
My neighborhood mechanic with decades of experience said that tick was nothing. Well after 100k of hearing this he’s definitely wrong as I should have RUclipsd this. Now I may have worn the journals on the camshafts but I’ve seen a nube do this job and know very well that I rather watch a pro before I start. Great video
I'm freaked out by this man I've got the tick😢. ...haha u said im having a heart attack and I still am! this isn't nowhere near as bad as the other guys who want me to pull cams! this is much better! 😅
I noticed you didn’t put silicone in between the timing/valve chambers on the driver’s side. Was that an oversight or is it different on that side? Sorry, just trying to be thorough as this is my first time. Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this video!
Great video! I did the Pass side on my wife's 2015 2 years ago and it sucked wish I watched your vid then. I have to do the drivers side tomorrow which will be easier thank God and you!
What scares me the most and why I dont dare to try this job myself at home, is removing all that stuff just to get to the valve covers, changing rockers and push pins looked easy. I see nothing wrong the way you worked on this motor, although I do see something wrong when you said "book time 20 hours"!!!! If that takes a mechanic that long for a job like this, then I'm not going to that garage. Good job guy, I wish theres was a mechanic like you near me!!!!!!! PS I have 2018 V6 Cherokee Latitude I bought used couple years ago with 30k, it now has 50k miles, it still goes like new and I want to keep it that way for long time. Therefore when should the trans fluid be changed and or should it be done by a machine at a garage? Either way I dont dare to change fluid at home..............
I have the same ticking noise in a 2015 Wrangler, but I also have a loud clattering upon mild acceleration. Do you think this could be caused by the lifter?
What's the root cause of these lifters failing? The Quality of the parts, such as not being heat treated properly or the design itself? Maintenance, when it comes to oil changes? Using such a lightweight oil like 0W-20 engine oil? Also too, w/everything removed, should other things be replaced as a future precaution, like the plastic oil filter assembly? As for that oil filter assembly, there's an aftermarket assembly which is made of aluminum. What's your opinion of using that?
Just had this repaired on my 2012 JK. $1,200. Mechanic said he was seeing this a lot and it was caused from using oil without zinc. Apparently they took the zinc out of motor oils a few years ago. He said I needed to use something like Valvoline VR1 10w30 racing oil because it has the necessary zinc needed for lubrication and to protect the parts.
Excellent video! I have a 2013 Town and Country with 180kmi. It had a tick, so replaced all rockers and lifters while replacing the failed oil cooler. Got it back together. I now have a small knock. Driven it about 20 miles, and it hasn't gone away. What would be the next step, or will this go away? I'm referencing the 56:00 mark on the video. Thanks!
My 2018 ram 1500 express with the 3.6 Pentastar with 275 k miles with no issues at all..just keep the motor oil clean .. good engine so far, my goal is to pass the 300 k miles with my truck and then buy me the same truck and engine again but newer 0 miles
Mine was starting to tick at 50k. Always used Mobil one. Changed leaking oil cooler. Ran the same Mobil one filter. Poured in 6 quarts of pennezoil platinum 5w20. 10k miles of quite operation.
Okay the only thing I noticed after watching this very informative video is on the left side valve cover before reinstalling did you ever put any back silicone on that side as well I didn’t see it? Or is it even necessary if n the left side? Just curious if I should on that side to or not
Great video. Very step by step and alot of tips and tricks. I have 2014 Durango higher mileage..not looking forward to this but I know it will eventually come..thanks
Thanks for NOT putting loud music in your video.
You Sir deserve an award for putting this piece of crap back together with such eloquence in style
My jeep was ticking just like the one in the video. I ordered the parts and watched the video carefully and my jeep is fixed! Cost me a fraction of what the dealership wanted. Thanks a million!
I love when everything works out the way it should. You got the job done right, save $$ and learn something new. Thank you for watching I do appreciate your comment.
@@a2zautomasters862 thank you so much! I didn’t have the money to pay to have it done! With your video it was easy to do. Thanks a million
Great vid. One question, do you need to replace cover gaskets?
Same. 500 bucks vs the 2400.00 the dealership wanted.🙄
How hard was it? About to this weekend? Any tips?
I actually did this to my jeep. Didnt even take the cam bearings out. Just loosened them rolled the crank till the lobe was up on each rocker and pulled the lifters and rockers out individually. Dealership guys will tell you it cant be done this way. But it can. Just have to be careful. My jeep has 40k on it afyer i did it. Been running great. No more engine ticks! Love me some jeeps! Awesome vid!
It makes me so happy to see all of the back yard warriors successfully doing this them selves!
Thank you all!
A couple years ago I carefully watched this video and successfully made the repairs on the driver side. Now it's time for the passenger side... Wish me luck! Thanks for the video!!
I highly recommend this mechanic! One of the best on RUclips!
Just finished doing the job today! This video was immensely helpful. I was able to create an even shorter shortcut by leaving the cam caps on but fully loose on the bolts and prying accordingly (based on which cam lobe was up or down). Regardless I wouldn't have even tackled this job without this video. Absolutely fantastic. Thank you to the author!
Just did mines with 50k miles an took every bit of 8hrs , thanks to you it was too easy!!!!
It took me 9-hrs to do the right side, but your video was amazingly helpful. The most difficult part was getting the top screw out of the PCV valve. Other than that it was easy peasy.
Good guy he is honest knows what he's doing I have the same Engine he replaced I had ticking in the engine and even cam shaft needed to be replaced it took about 3 days to repair everything I have no problems now I would recommend this shop you won't be disappointed
Thank you so much. I appreciate your business and your comment.
I am in Michigan. where sre you located?
@@vladvonravenloft9330 NY Long Island
How much does this cost
@@dyllanfennell1570 Depends, if you changing any camshafts, oil cooler seal kit, or camshaft position sensors. also got to change valve cover gasket, intake manifold gasket upper and lower and all 24 Rocker and 24 tappers. $2k-$3k
God bless good people like you who take the time to share your knowledge and experience! I have a 2015 I bought used a year ago with 54k miles on it. Engine purred like a kitten until about a month ago and I started noticing the ticking sound (around 63k miles). I've never bought an extended warranty in my life until I bought this Jeep. Thank god I did, gonna be taking it back to the dealership soon and hopefully get it fixed under warranty.
Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave the feed back. 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Where did you buy parts? eBay?
@@juanbugayong2026 dealer.
@@a2zautomasters862 Please explain what is the problem!!
The engine makes a ticking noise okay?
Why is that a problem and why does it require a repair??
Please take a moment to explain that in your title and description.
@@chazzcapone. any ticking or knocking noise coming from inside the engine is not a good thing. It’s a sign of wear. Internal engine components are so precise, minimum tolerance and very very small amount of clearance. That noise usually means those very small gaps are getting bigger and that’s very bad. In this case the rocker arms bearing failed and the camshaft rollers are hitting the rocker arm itself and that could cause a massive internal engine damage. I hope that was helpful. Thank you.
Just did this and now my engine sounds great! None of my rocker arms were as worn as shown here but solved my issue
Glad it worked out. Thank you for watching and I appreciate your feed back
Great video! After being quoted $3000-$5000 from multiple mechanics and being told its a 20 hour job, I knocked mine out for a fraction of the cost (in the hundreds $ only) and finished mine in 5 hours taking my time. Thanks for the tricks!
Are you mechanically inclined? I’m not experienced with any engine work but I cannot afford a shop
Did this job yesterday on a '15 GC driver's side. Much easier if you roll engine to a little before top dead center, for driver's side, for a more neutral cam position. Keep the magnet away from the rear of the cam, it will destroy the magnetism of the cam position rotors.
Well Doc, it’s great to see the patient survived to go for greater adventures. 😊
😂😂.
What an amazing video! My 2015 Grand Cherokee is doing the same thing. I wouldn’t dare do this myself, but it’s so good to know how this all works so I can at least understand what the mechanic is telling me and that’s he telling me the truth. Thanks so much for creating this video. I wish you much success, bud!
This is an amazing video that guided me through both sides of my 3.6 rocker arm replacement, followed exactly and had zero issues performing the work as shown. For anyone who is about to do this the first time, go easy with the magnet near the back of the cams where the tone wheels are and buy decent parts, I did have to redo a set that were bought from Amazon because the rockers were made out of spec and kept valves open losing all compression. Thanks
That sucks big time.
I just did this job. Got it all back together and it was super hard to get started, if at all. I'm wondering if I have the same issue you had on the first set you put in. Did it seem like it is flooded? It did crank over a bit strange like low compression.
Did y’all buy mopar?
They had Mopar part numbers but not from dealer. I did pull everything back apart and checked the new ones with the old and the angles were off a bit. Will have to make sure they are right from now on. @@richierich1169
Thank you! I have 2012 Jeep Wrangler JK with 129K miles with the same 'tick tick' engine symptoms, no Check Engine light or anything. I bought all parts needed (OEM parts through MOPAR) to do the job. I spent about $750.00 in OEM parts cause I'm not taking any short cuts or unnecessary risks. I got the same tools you are using in this video and I'm planning on doing this job in early August. I will follow this video step by step like my life depends on it, and report back. Thank you.
Hi, this video is being super helpful. I'm half way done with the arm rocker replacement work. However, by mistake I broke the black plastic line the mechanic is holding @15:52 when trying to place back the top cover. The black line broke just before the yellow marking you see on the video (close to the aluminum connector). Can the line be fixed since it's plastic? Is it difficult to replace the line in question? Please any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and God bless.
Have to make sure your cam journals aren’t worn to much otherwise this video is useless cause you got to pull the cams off.
@@ricvanwinkle1665thanks
2012 here too had the tick and threw a code and it was repaired under warranty,was the rocker arm
Has to throw a code then they will fix it free
Glad i watched this. I was under the impression it was the lifters but upon inspection it was the rocker arm like you showed. Quick work. Running perfect
Dip the rods in clean oil and they will slide right in, also dip you rockers in clean oil too…helps with abrasion
I've watched probably a dozen videos of this job because I'm getting ready to do this job on my wife's van. I'm so glad I stumbled across this video! You just made this job so much easier! Thank you so very much!
Does your wife have a Pacifica? If so did you ever purchase the Baxter oil filter adapter or is it a gimmick?
Thank you so much for your video. Between you and another youtuber, I was able to replace a set of (24) rockers, lifters and one cam. I found a rounded left intake cam during. I’ve not had to pull the Battery box before. Your vid helped me with routing of emission and TIPM plugs on assembly. Was a huge reference, thanks again. Good reference for where stuff was before. Always take pics before you disassemble things.
This is a very detailed, excellent demonstration of the job. You have made this complicated fix look very doable for the do it yourself owner. Thank you for the excellent video and the soft background "music."
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment and feed back. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻
I used a modified version of this method - Used the cam lock tool / de-tensioning set to de-tension the timing chain. I only locked the cams in place briefly to loosen one end bolt and remove it to inspect it more closely. Overall - This saved a ton of time and I did notice that if you are only doing rockers - there is a "magic spot" in the cam rotation where you can get every single of one of them out without any issue and without moving the cams out of the bearing journals. Unfortunately - I cannot say that for the lifters - you just need a teeny tiny little bit of extra clearance to get them all out - just like in the video. 😁
My screwed up rocker locations - ( I did them all and all the lifters - 81K miles )
Passenger exhaust cam rear - Rear 2 rockers were the worst
Passenger intake cam - Next to last rocker
Driver Intake and exhaust were mostly ok - one rocker had slightly more wear than all the others - I lost track of where it came from.
Thank you for sharing. I appreciate your feedback
Brilliant! Makes me wonder why the service information is so adamant about taking the long road every time, regardless of the situation.
Your video is absolutely right on target. This is the only way that I will do it. Now if there is significant damage to the camshaft, that’s another story however, I am a believer that a little wear on the camshaft it’s not going to make a lot of difference.
A very clear explanation and demonstration of how to do this complex job. You made it look "doable" Thanks
I’m literally sweating and on the edge of my seat watching this video 🫣 Greta video sir 👏🏽 luckily my 07 jgc laredo 3.7 never had this issues w ticking or knocking just routine maintenance that I’m always on top of 🙏🏽 she just surpassed 226K miles and she still runs like a champ!
You’re lucky. Our 3.7 in the Commander we use to own liked to spit the rockers off randomly.
@@THETOPGLOCK hahaa omg lucky I guess?! 🫠 how does that start to happen in the first place?
@@lstruggy First time was on a January night when the temperature was single digits. Went to start it and instantly heard a noise and check engine light came on. Second time the rocker got caught in the timing chain and broke the head. Nightmare
@@THETOPGLOCK omg 😳 yeah I’m lucky! I wonder if the single digit cold caused that?! She’s mostly lived NorCal, SoCal then Vegas the last 8 years. The Vegas summer heat here really expedited the life of my water pumps and but I have lifetime warranty.
My cel came on today p0420 I resetted it but when I got home tonight it came back on again haha my 02 sensors I believe needs to be replace.
The other day I put a brand new alternator and a brand new battery all for free from lifetime warranty oreilys & interstate batteries headquarters here in Vegas only 2 yrs old battery went bad cause of mostly 115d heat will do it! 🔥u still got her and what year was her model?
Thank you! For sharing such a great video, was able to fix my jeep. At 60000 mile started having the ticking sound. Took my time and completed the project over the weekend.. My first real project beside changing a starter, water pump and some maintenance.
Glad it all worked out. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your feed back. 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Man you are a rockstar. Watched this video several times. Was a breeze to work through. Thanks for taking the time to explain this work around.
Had the same issues early last year. Luckily I was under warranty still and Jeep took it in and fixed it. Only had to pay $100 deductible. Glad there's a resource to resolve this problem. Definitely subscribing.
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I am sweating watching you do this job. Absolutely amazing how you share this detailed video with us. I would never attempt this by myself but I enjoy learning from your video. 👊👊
Thank you so much! I appreciate you. And thank you for watching.
2014 85,000 and just started hearing the ticking noise. I’m afraid to go to the dealership since my extended warranty expired. I wish I can have you fix it for me bro. You’re just too good 👍. Can I contact you and have you fix it for me please 🙏?
@@a2zautomasters862what’s the total estimate fee from you guys w this job? parts included asking for a friend 😊
Going this far I would recommend pulling intake and changing o-rings on water/oil cooler. This is a ongoing issue with these engines.
You can check out my other videos for that.
That was probably the best video on how to do a job of this magnitude I have ever seen. Excellent 👍🏼
Excellent video. Stable camera shots with good lighting and well framed. Thank you so much for doing this the right way!
My 3.6l just started ticking. I work on all my cars but was unsure about fixing this but after watching this I can do this very carefully!
Thank you so much. My daughter’s Jeep is back in the road. Cheers to you my bro❤️
I have a 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan that has this motor. I’ve done all the work on our vehicles once the years and I’m going to have to do this to ours soon. It has 219,000 miles and it has recently developed that ticking sound. I’ve watched videos on how to do this the ‘recommended’ way, so I was definitely interested in finding out how to do it the quicker way. I’m confident in my skills. Thank you for the info!
Wow Developed @ 219? That’s impressive. I’ve seen this happened as early as 50k miles. Good luck. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment.
@@a2zautomasters862 I think regular maintenance has been key. It still uses no oil between changes.
Great video man! My 2017 JK has the ticking noise on the passenger side...I picked it up from dealer today for P201/P301 repair. Front seals and 60k service cost $3100. You video give me confidence to replace rockers/pushrods without fear. Thanks for sharing
😀😀😀😀🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏👋👋👋👋👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
Glad I can help. 🙏🏻🙏🏻
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Huge "Thank You" my man!!!!!!!!!!!!! this video was very well put together, thank you for taking the time to make it . Saved me at least 2000.00$$$$, felt like an intimidating job but the way you broke it down made it seem very do-able for a DIY'er like myself, again very much appreciated, Liked and Subscribed!!!!!!!! no more ticking!!!!!!!!!!!
This is how I usually do it at the shop. Back in the day I use to remove the whole timing chain and remove the cams.
They have a tool for holding the phasers and releasing the tension on the chain. Removing the chain or phasers completely is never required. Its always a gamble to do it that way as those cam cap bolt holes will strip out and pull all the threads out very easily. Then you end up replacing the head which is a bigger job all together. It takes at most 2 hours with the tools the right way.
Great video man! My 2015 JK had the ticking noise on the passenger side... I followed your directions and watched the video multiple times after ordering the replacement parts. Once they arrived, the job took 12-ish hours to complete spread out over a weekend. MY JEEP IS FINALLY QUIET AGAIN! Thank you for taking the time to make this video and having detailed instructions on what to do! Saved me thousands!
I was wondering if you had a video on replacing the CAMS? I could see some wear on the lobe from the bad rocker arm and I know I will need to replace it sooner than later. Was hoping you had another video I could study before diving back in...
Thanks in advance!
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. Glad everything worked out. I will be doing a video about that soon, it’s actually being recorded these days hopefully will be posted in couple of weeks. Stay tuned. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Did you drain the oil prior to opening?
@@alfkeep no
There are other videos that show acceptable vs non acceptable wear on the cam lobes. But if you left it ticking for too long you could have damage to the lobes...I'm not sure how that would manifest itself as the engine runs....probably poor performance due to lower intake or exhaust volume....?
@@a2zautomasters862what’s the cause of the ticking in the first place? Typical problem w the pentastar or something else? 🤔
I absolutely love it when a great tech beats book time.
Of course the customer is always you charged me x hours for labor and it’s done in half the time.
My response to them was always “you’re welcome” “thankfully for you we have qualified techs, who have invested in the tools and knowledge to be able get you back on the road quickly!” 👍🏽🍻
Important bit not clearly shown on video was to loosen the large bracket on the drivers side. The valve cover is very difficult to remove without loosening that bracket. I think it's shown at 5:16 but it isn't mentioned verbally so you have to watch this vid carefully
I'm changing the valve cover gaskets and fixing a leak in one spark plug housing and it was a pain in the ass 😆😆. All I kept seeing online was how complicated the passenger side was
@@danielq.4371 yeah the drivers side is easier IF you get that bracket loose haha 😂
@Brandon I bought a small 3 dollar ratchet from harbor freight and I was finally able to get to that bracket!
Thank you Thank you Thank you! I took my time and meticulously changed out the rocker arms in my 2015 Jeep JK. Wow, so much money saved. Only $350 ish in parts and tools. Again, I can’t thank you enough!
Thank you for the video!! Between this video and another one I found, I was able to get the knocking to quit. I found two bad rockers and was able to replace them.
Another option is to take the vehicle to trade in before the CEL comes in along with the P0302 code. The result for a non mechanic was Cylinder Head replacement at dealer under the warranty. Service write guy said it would have cost $3,000.
Having owned other Chrysler minivans I bought the extended warranty when new.
Believe it or not! Yesterday I got the minivan back from the service department after another CEL. Code P0306. Another $3000 cylinder head replacement. Covered by Lifetime Maximum Warranty which Chrysler no longer sells. My 2014 T&C has $10,000 in warranty work since new.
Trade in and then someone else pays 36k$ for a used jeep unlimited sahara.. to have it blowing up 3 days later 🤬 don’t trade stuff in to unload your problem onto someone else.
On the one hand - this is clever and creative. On the other hand...
The manufacturer probably knew this was possible but didn't prescribe this as the way to correct the issue. You can argue that ends justify the means, but again I really have to wonder if the manufacturer agrees. That's important to a lot of people because frankly, they should know what they're doing. It may be that their process errs on the side of the 'average' wrench approaching the problem vs. someone who's being careful. That said - you're one slip from gouging a lobe, and you're prying against a sealing surface.
The additional break-down may also reveal additional problems that they'd like to avoid.
Finally, from a warranty perspective or customer spend perspective - what got paid for the job? The full pop time it takes, or the time suited to the reduced number of steps? I'm not saying don't pay techs for skill - but this isn't purely skill - it IS deviation from the procedure - he says it right in the video. Don't hate - I'm not judging- I'm just asking.
Hey bro thanks a ton for showing this. I had a failed rocker and followed this video. The hardest part of the whole thing was getting the valve cover off and back on. The passenger side is the easy side and it still took a lot of time. I have a Ram 1500 and the passenger side is not covered by the intake manifold.
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Thank you for the video. I watched and followed step by step and got the job done. Extremely helpful!!
I installed a Baxter anti-drain back filter conversion on my 23 Jeep . to avoid this from happening.. thank you for the video
A competent mechanic can do this in less then 6 hours but for most it'll take longer. Also don't have to drain coolant or unhook the hoses or fuel rail or even the injectors. The battery tray is a pain though and so is the pcv valve (at least on a right hand drive jeep due to the trans dipstick in the way) but either way, it's way cheaper then the stealership.
I’m not no mechanic but this video helped me fix my jeep no more ticking
6 hours?? Wow!
this is one of the best how to videos i have seen. the splicing, photography, narration, fast forward all great. You should post your mailing address for DONATIONS!
DId the same job on our 2015 which at 80,000 started ticking. Driver's side was the first which I fixed (easier despite removing the upper intake), then the passenger side was ticking. I didn't remove the battery tray and now that I see that you did, i should have for all the wrestling I had to do with the valve cover. My next job will be replacing a leaking oil cooler which doesn't look to daunting. All in all, it seems like a decent engine, with some minor design flaws. The updated rocker followers are totally different on the later models.
Check out my oil cooler/ filter housing
ruclips.net/video/NKSk67lleiQ/видео.html
Thank you for watching and your feed back.
No this is super smart this is more safer than missing with timing marks and thank you for your knowledge and experience
That damn ticking. I've fixed it once before and now my Jeep is doing it again. I'm going to check my cams a little closer this time and make sure they aren't damaged before swapping the rockers.
Nicely done. What is causing this wear? What's your take on the oil anti drain mod on the filter? Do you think that is the cause because the oil drains on start up?
Just want to say thank you, your video help me a lot to repair my grand cherokee. Regards!!!!
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Did you get the bottom two bolts off the passenger side bracket by pealing off the fender liner? Great video BTW.
I came up with an idea to use my on car valve compressor for this, had to make an adapter to open the valve with everything assembled, it worked just make sure there are no pistons all the way up, did not have to take the cam cap bolts out, that was a wrangler I am doing a T&C now it worked on the front but no room on the back bank, had a bad cam there anyhow, that new tool kit is really a time saver if you have to remove cams Alex the car doctor has a link on his video called rocker replacement with special tool
I appreciate the video. I was wondering why you don't just use the chain holding tool release the tensioners with the wire hook and slide the phasers from the cam so you can remove it ? I feel that method is easier and faster, no?
I actually have several videos on the subject one of them is using the specialty tool. I just want to show that the job can be done with or without specialty tools. Thank you.
Some information from my dad who used to work in Chrysler's warranty department before he passed. The reason these engines are having failing rocker arms in years before 2019 is because the engines were originally designed for 30 weight oil and then were back spec'ed to 20 weight oils because of CAFE fuel economy standards. The problem is that 20 weight oils have a lower HTHS (High Temperature High Sheer) rating which means that there is less ability for the oil to keep parts separated under high load areas of the engines such as in the needle bearings used in these earlier rocker arms before they were switched to a solid large pin (no needle bearing) design in late 2019. You can buy these rocker arms. The MOPAR Part numbers end in AH. Anything earlier than this will still have the needle bearings and not the solid pin. A work around if your engine is lower mileage and not ticking is to choose a 30 weight oil (which the owners manual says you can use) which has as high of a HTHS rating as possible. 30 weight oils will be 2.9 or higher. Amsoil XL for example is the highest I've found at 3.3 HTHS. (Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Engines specify a minimum of 3.5 HTHS for cam loading for this reason) In a 20wt oil it's 2.6 minimum and this is too low to protect these needle bearings. The other thing that you can do to ensure you don't suffer from issues is to not idle your engine too long (lack of oil flow to the top part of the engine). You don't have to take my word for it, but it's an easy change to make to ensure you don't suffer from this in your 2019 and previous Dodge Caravan, Journey or Jeeps that don't use the PUG Gen 3 engines as found in things like the Grand Cherokee, RAM pick-ups, Dodge Durango's (not Promasters or Chargers), These engines with the PUG 3 design have the Variable Vale Lift and use a different Rocker Arm design to accommodate the VVL system and don't suffer from this same problem.
Chrysler is still having the same problems way into the 2020 or so range. No one seems to know for sure, but I'd guess maybe idling too much and extended oil changes.....
Ticking noise more like screaming noise to my ear is gone. Thank you for sharing this video man. ✌️
Glad I can help. Thank you for watching 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks. Doing tomorrow but glad you mentioned front ones don’t go bad so I can hopefully avoid that one or just be more careful, my sound is middle , is there chance that cam got eaten some or unlikely in most cases?
Hey, did you only replace the affected rockersrms?
Thanks for video . finished my 3rd 1 like this today...It's doable ..only things couple screws was so tight stripped had to grind 2 off
THANKS A LOT FOR THIS VIDEO I JUST FINISHED MINE IT RUNS GREAT AND ONLY TOOK ME 2 HOURS THANKS BROTHER 💯💯
What would cause this to happen so often? Are there any preventative measures that could be taken?
Could this be the result of so called “dry starts”?
Set the front cam lobe to just before the cam opens the valve. Remove the cam caps then turn the cam so it is fully opening the front valves. This will raise the rear of the cam enough to get the rockers and tappets out. Then turn until the front lobes are up. Pry up on the front of the cam and the front rockers will come out.
I just about died seeing how easy the T30s loosened up for you! I broke at least 3 bits when i did mine. They where crazy tight! I have to do this job again :( Thanks for the video refresher course.
Wow. That’s crazy. Good luck man. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
@@a2zautomasters862 Just finished replacing them. I can't thank you enough!
That what I was thinking too. I have nightmare cause I feel like I didn't tighten them enough replace everything.
Yes just broke a bit trying to loosen them. Is there a certain one we should get?
@@arthurdavis3139 I got mine from Home Depot...Husky brand...they worked
Thank you for being nice and precise,your tutelage was awesome. Probably going to do this with our caravan,was only planning on replacing what I find to be worn, but,after seeing your video I think I can handle doing them all! Thank you for your experience!
🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻 thank you for watching I do appreciate your comment and feed back.
This is exactly how I would do it. Lol I knew what he was going to do before he even did it. Just bring the cam up a little bit. Just be sure to torque everything back to factory spec. 👍
My neighborhood mechanic with decades of experience said that tick was nothing. Well after 100k of hearing this he’s definitely wrong as I should have RUclipsd this. Now I may have worn the journals on the camshafts but I’ve seen a nube do this job and know very well that I rather watch a pro before I start. Great video
I did it last Saturday, your video was really helpful. Thank you 😊
I'm freaked out by this man I've got the tick😢. ...haha u said im having a heart attack and I still am! this isn't nowhere near as bad as the other guys who want me to pull cams! this is much better! 😅
Just be careful, take your time and follow the video exactly the way it’s done. 💪🏻
I noticed you didn’t put silicone in between the timing/valve chambers on the driver’s side. Was that an oversight or is it different on that side? Sorry, just trying to be thorough as this is my first time. Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this video!
Great video! I did the Pass side on my wife's 2015 2 years ago and it sucked wish I watched your vid then. I have to do the drivers side tomorrow which will be easier thank God and you!
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 good luck with driver side. Let me know how it goes. I appreciate your comment
What scares me the most and why I dont dare to try this job myself at home, is removing all that stuff just to get to the valve covers, changing rockers and push pins looked easy. I see nothing wrong the way you worked on this motor, although I do see something wrong when you said "book time 20 hours"!!!! If that takes a mechanic that long for a job like this, then I'm not going to that garage. Good job guy, I wish theres was a mechanic like you near me!!!!!!!
PS I have 2018 V6 Cherokee Latitude I bought used couple years ago with 30k, it now has 50k miles, it still goes like new and I want to keep it that way for long time. Therefore when should the trans fluid be changed and or should it be done by a machine at a garage? Either way I dont dare to change fluid at home..............
Wow, awesome work. Is this something they fixed for the later year (2023-2024) pentastar engines? If not how would one avoid this from happening?
Amazing, well done man. I watched every minute of this video and learned alot. Thanks !
I have the same ticking noise in a 2015 Wrangler, but I also have a loud clattering upon mild acceleration.
Do you think this could be caused by the lifter?
Great video overall, thanks for showing clearly the tic/knocking sound. I like the shortcut idea.
Should have changed the plugs while you were in there... I would have if it were mine. But to each their own. Nice work! Nice execution! I approve!
Spark plugs were actually changed 2 months before that job was done, otherwise I would’ve changed them. Thank you for watching.
what a great video - mine is starting to tick , you made this look so simple , cant wait to do it - thanks again !! legend
Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comment and feed back. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
What's the root cause of these lifters failing?
The Quality of the parts, such as not being heat treated properly or the design itself?
Maintenance, when it comes to oil changes?
Using such a lightweight oil like 0W-20 engine oil?
Also too, w/everything removed, should other things be replaced as a future precaution, like the plastic oil filter assembly?
As for that oil filter assembly, there's an aftermarket assembly which is made of aluminum. What's your opinion of using that?
Thanks. I like how you think outside the box!
Glad it was helpful! 🙏🏻🙏🏻
What happens if it skipped the marks? How would you set back timing? Does the whole timing cover need to coma off?
Just had this repaired on my 2012 JK. $1,200. Mechanic said he was seeing this a lot and it was caused from using oil without zinc. Apparently they took the zinc out of motor oils a few years ago. He said I needed to use something like Valvoline VR1 10w30 racing oil because it has the necessary zinc needed for lubrication and to protect the parts.
That’s a great price. Where was the job done? What state? We’re all rockers and tappers changed? Were and cams damaged ?
So the knocking from the engine is from the rockers and lifters and not from worn timing chain/ components?
Yup that’s right.
How many pushrods and rocker arms are needed
Excellent video! I have a 2013 Town and Country with 180kmi. It had a tick, so replaced all rockers and lifters while replacing the failed oil cooler. Got it back together. I now have a small knock. Driven it about 20 miles, and it hasn't gone away. What would be the next step, or will this go away? I'm referencing the 56:00 mark on the video. Thanks!
Can you add a list of parts needed? I know there are several gaskets to order along with the rockers and rods.
My 2018 ram 1500 express with the 3.6 Pentastar with 275 k miles with no issues at all..just keep the motor oil clean .. good engine so far, my goal is to pass the 300 k miles with my truck and then buy me the same truck and engine again but newer 0 miles
Do you have the Baxter oil fill adapter oil filter adapter? Is it worth it? Have you looked into it?
Mine was starting to tick at 50k. Always used Mobil one. Changed leaking oil cooler. Ran the same Mobil one filter.
Poured in 6 quarts of pennezoil platinum
5w20. 10k miles of quite operation.
This video is awesome! 2011 dodge Durango it worked perfectly on.. MUST FOLLOW STEP BY STEP & pay attention to detail!
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching.
Curious if these part numbers work for a 2011 as well. Still a JK but the part numbers listed are only confirmed for 2014-2018? 🤔 great video!
Okay the only thing I noticed after watching this very informative video is on the left side valve cover before reinstalling did you ever put any back silicone on that side as well I didn’t see it? Or is it even necessary if n the left side? Just curious if I should on that side to or not
Did it all and it runs great. Now I have a p0032 code which I've never had before.
Does this trick work for the Jeep JL prentastar ?
Great video. Very step by step and alot of tips and tricks. I have 2014 Durango higher mileage..not looking forward to this but I know it will eventually come..thanks