Another great tutorial Daniel, yeah I would have gone new as a posed to fixing the old one. That’s a shame it didn’t make as big of an improvement as you thought, but hey you needed a new shock anyway 😎
Hi Daniel, I've upgraded my suspension as well recently to an TFX 142 (yes that one fits the DR650SE) and upgraded the front as well with progressive springs and emulators. This combination made a hell off a difference on my bike. Yes I'm way heavier than you are and my rear shock was really shot as well. Now my bike feels a light toy that you can throw around. Its's way more nimble as well. For me it was upgrade the bike needed, I even added the Hydraulic Preload Adjuster for it so I can level the bike out when it is loaded with my gear on it. keep up the good video's
Nice one Stefan👍 Glad it worked out. I can imagine how bad the stock set up would be if you are any heavier than me must be like a new bike! I considered the remote preload adjuster but decided against it, seems fine so far either loaded up or solo
I guess if your std shock is worn out that shock looks like a good replacement, gives you more adjustment options, I'm sure it'll last longer than the std shock , I feel the Suzuki rear shock needs more rebound and compression options to start with , great informative video , as always , cheers !
Cheers Peter. Yep only reason I got it was my stock one was past it, otherwise I would just have kept on going. I agree but it's not bat really for how budget the bike is.
Will hopefully have my one in this week, im interested to see what it feels like over fast rough stuff never really had much to complain about with the standard apart from being a bit wollowy through fast long corners (can feel it pumping as I push on the pegs). 90% of riders dont really need much more from there suspension normally just makes them slower (especially when there 'mate' thinks they can adjust it)
Hi Daniel, We're sorry to hear it's not living up to your expectations! You could always contact your dealer or us directly so we can work out how to improve things for you.
Thanks for the message, the shock is fine just think my expectations were a bit high. I don't think there can be anything done regarding that. Like I said in the video and comments if I had to do it over I would have still bought it.
Thanks for the message, the shock is fine just think my expectations were a bit high. I don't think there can be anything done regarding that. Like I said in the video and comments if I had to do it over I would have still bought it.
Hi Dan, I’ve just brought a new DR a month ago and I’m looking at suspension upgrade front and rear. I was initially going with a Wilber’s set up on the rear. I changed my mind to a revalve of the original unit? You would think that the unit you acquired would make a huge difference but it didn’t! Now I don’t know which way to go? Thanks for the content of your channel, keep up the good work 👍
Hey Jason. Depends on your weight like I said stock unit is sprung for my weight so I didn't find a massive difference as I kept the same spring rate in the new one. If I was going to do it again I would stick with my choice. I can always put my stock one on when I sell the bike and resell this one which would cover the cost of the revalved original. That's the way I looked at it. If you are heavier than me or ride harder than I do I can imagine how bad the stock one would be and how much of a difference this would make. Budget also though this was twice the price of a stock revalved. So depends what situation you are in
@@MOTODANS I’m 75kg’s. I have a FJ1200 and purchased a YSS rear shocker for it. Transformation was chalk and cheese the difference was quite noticeable. I will probably go with a Wilber’s in the long run with new front springs and valves to suit.
No, it really needs a revalve. The dampening vs compression ratios are way off from each other, as is the high vs low compression. You can mitigate some of that by heavier fluid... and in turn make small stuff harsh the further you try to control the higher speed. If you've ever messed with any bike with rebound clickers, you know that being 1 or 2 clicks off of idea makes a big difference (quite easy to feel) in both how pogo or kick inclined the bike is as well as how well it bites and cuts a nice line. That really can't be calculated and tuned beforehand, as even minor spring preload settings and differences in rider and bike weight all affect that easily in the range of several clicks. What our DR's really need is a high speed adjuster and then a decent balance between comp and rebound circuits. Now on a budget, any small improvements makes huge gains. I'm all for budget improvements. Just know that as long as you are in the range of _compromise_ solutions, as in covering _this issue_ with a _different setting,_ improving the one aspect always adds other negatives.
Only need to remove the upper and lower shock bolt and the air box then pull the shock up through, don’t need to touch the linkage or anything else, except obviously the side panels and seat
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Another great tutorial Daniel, yeah I would have gone new as a posed to fixing the old one. That’s a shame it didn’t make as big of an improvement as you thought, but hey you needed a new shock anyway 😎
Cheers Christian 👍
Hi Daniel, I've upgraded my suspension as well recently to an TFX 142 (yes that one fits the DR650SE) and upgraded the front as well with progressive springs and emulators. This combination made a hell off a difference on my bike. Yes I'm way heavier than you are and my rear shock was really shot as well. Now my bike feels a light toy that you can throw around. Its's way more nimble as well. For me it was upgrade the bike needed, I even added the Hydraulic Preload Adjuster for it so I can level the bike out when it is loaded with my gear on it. keep up the good video's
Nice one Stefan👍 Glad it worked out. I can imagine how bad the stock set up would be if you are any heavier than me must be like a new bike! I considered the remote preload adjuster but decided against it, seems fine so far either loaded up or solo
Excellent information, thank you!
I guess if your std shock is worn out that shock looks like a good replacement, gives you more adjustment options, I'm sure it'll last longer than the std shock , I feel the Suzuki rear shock needs more rebound and compression options to start with , great informative video , as always , cheers !
Cheers Peter. Yep only reason I got it was my stock one was past it, otherwise I would just have kept on going. I agree but it's not bat really for how budget the bike is.
Will hopefully have my one in this week, im interested to see what it feels like over fast rough stuff never really had much to complain about with the standard apart from being a bit wollowy through fast long corners (can feel it pumping as I push on the pegs). 90% of riders dont really need much more from there suspension normally just makes them slower (especially when there 'mate' thinks they can adjust it)
Hi Dan. Can you please tell me. What brand those handlebar muffs are that you have? I'm in NZ and not sure which ones to get. Thanks
Hey Oliver. They are oxford handle Barr muffs. I really like them. Pair these with some heated grips and my hands will never get cold or wet
Hey how many miles did you say you went on stock suspension? And is that without servicing the shocks also? Thanks man. Good video
Over 30,000 kms. Never touched the rear changed the oil in the front twice
Hi Daniel,
We're sorry to hear it's not living up to your expectations! You could always contact your dealer or us directly so we can work out how to improve things for you.
Thanks for the message, the shock is fine just think my expectations were a bit high. I don't think there can be anything done regarding that. Like I said in the video and comments if I had to do it over I would have still bought it.
Thanks for the message, the shock is fine just think my expectations were a bit high. I don't think there can be anything done regarding that. Like I said in the video and comments if I had to do it over I would have still bought it.
@@MOTODANS We're glad you don't have any regrets. Enjoy and let us know if we can do anything!
Hi Dan,
I’ve just brought a new DR a month ago and I’m looking at suspension upgrade front and rear. I was initially going with a Wilber’s set up on the rear. I changed my mind to a revalve of the original unit? You would think that the unit you acquired would make a huge difference but it didn’t! Now I don’t know which way to go?
Thanks for the content of your channel, keep up the good work 👍
Hey Jason. Depends on your weight like I said stock unit is sprung for my weight so I didn't find a massive difference as I kept the same spring rate in the new one. If I was going to do it again I would stick with my choice. I can always put my stock one on when I sell the bike and resell this one which would cover the cost of the revalved original. That's the way I looked at it. If you are heavier than me or ride harder than I do I can imagine how bad the stock one would be and how much of a difference this would make. Budget also though this was twice the price of a stock revalved. So depends what situation you are in
@@MOTODANS I’m 75kg’s. I have a FJ1200 and purchased a YSS rear shocker for it. Transformation was chalk and cheese the difference was quite noticeable. I will probably go with a Wilber’s in the long run with new front springs and valves to suit.
All the std shock needs is heavier fluid and spring. U can diy for a few hundred and a days work.
I did look into that but couldn't find any guides on doing so? Also about refilling the shock with nitrogen?
@@MOTODANS It's tricky but not too difficult. I just use air from a bicycle pump, it's not ideal though. Some suspension specialists can refill.
No, it really needs a revalve. The dampening vs compression ratios are way off from each other, as is the high vs low compression.
You can mitigate some of that by heavier fluid... and in turn make small stuff harsh the further you try to control the higher speed.
If you've ever messed with any bike with rebound clickers, you know that being 1 or 2 clicks off of idea makes a big difference (quite easy to feel) in both how pogo or kick inclined the bike is as well as how well it bites and cuts a nice line. That really can't be calculated and tuned beforehand, as even minor spring preload settings and differences in rider and bike weight all affect that easily in the range of several clicks.
What our DR's really need is a high speed adjuster and then a decent balance between comp and rebound circuits.
Now on a budget, any small improvements makes huge gains. I'm all for budget improvements.
Just know that as long as you are in the range of _compromise_ solutions, as in covering _this issue_ with a _different setting,_ improving the one aspect always adds other negatives.
Hey Dan, looks like you still have the stock exhaust can on that bike?
Hey Joe, it is stock but has been opened up a bit.
ruclips.net/video/934X2jY2kbA/видео.html
@@MOTODANS Just watched it now ... thanks!
@@joekaiser3033
Opened up a fair bit😎
Easier to take airbox off then remove from the top
Have seen that way but haven't tried. Will try next time I remove.
You only need to remove the rear bolt of the linkage.
Only need to remove the upper and lower shock bolt and the air box then pull the shock up through, don’t need to touch the linkage or anything else, except obviously the side panels and seat
@@michaelhefford6420 I think it's easier to leave the airbox in place and remove it from the bottom. At least for the xf650.
You only had to remove the air box